I was doodling a bit with Inkscape, playing with the new spiro path option, when I decided a hand embroidery pattern for a heart was appropriate for this time of year, St. Valentine's Day coming up and all. (Well, this is what happens when your spiro path ends up looking like half a mangled heart!) This little design, though, would be suitable for any time of year, really. Kids especially might like the design for embroidery on ... well, anything, even clothes.

I titled the hand embroidery pattern "Heart o' Flowers" for various and sundry reasons, one more striking reason being the fact that it is a heart ... full of flowers. The other reason is kind of obscure. When I was growing up, my best friend and I would always say, "In my heart o' hearts...." whenever we expressed a wish for something or whatever. I don't know why we said that, but we did. It wasn't "in my heart OF hearts" - no, that would not be nearly dramatic enough. It was definitely "in my heart o' hearts." This design reminded me of that.

(I was just a kid. Don't hold it against me...)

But in my heart o' hearts, I'm sure you'll find a use for this pattern if you like it. If it's not quite your style, feel free to skip it!



And here's a handy-dandy PDF of the same pattern. It prints about 4.5" x 4.5"

Heart o' Flowers Hand Embroidery Pattern - PDF

Enjoy!

Labels: embroidery design, free embroidery patterns, Hand embroidery stitches

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, February 04, 2010
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What are your weekend stitching plans? Will you have time to embroider this weekend, to indulge in hours of Needlework Bliss? I hope you will! Here's what I'm up to this weekend...

I'm making lots of French knots. LOTS of them! This whole crewel rooster project has me more involved in making French knots than any other project I've ever done. Oh, sure - I use French knots here and there when I embroider. One here. One there. A few in that cluster, a small bunch thither and yon.

But I don't think I've ever packed in this many French knots in one project in my whole stitching life!

My plans for this weekend involve lots of knots. Come Sunday night, my goal is to have the rooster project completely finished. There are about a million (or a gazillion) French knots between me and that goal.



Each petal in both flowers on the rooster project will be filled with French knots. Plugging away last night on some of the knots, I asked myself, "Why? Why did you do this? Why not just some quick filling stitches? Why not satin stitch? Why French knots? Are you NUTS?"



For each petal, it takes 34" of crewel wool to fill the petal with French knots. In fact, I use two and a half 16" strands of wool, but I'm taking into account the thread lost at the beginning and end of each strand - so it roughly works out to about 34" all told per petal. I'm using Renaissance Dyeing wool for the flowers. I like the colors of crewel wool I'm using, but the flowers are ending up darker than I realized they would be.

So why French knots?

My answer:

Why knot?

Enjoy your weekend!

Labels: crewel work, Embroidery Projects, Hand embroidery stitches, needlework pictures, pictures, wool

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, January 30, 2010
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Here's the last installment of this series of tutorials on hand embroidered lettering and text! Today, I'm going to take you quickly through the end of the stitching on my little sampler. For the final words, I've tried a couple new threads, but the stitches are ones we've already seen. If you're just joining in on the end of this series, you might want to take a look at the previous tutorials in the series, which cover all kinds of ways to hand embroider lettering.

I'm stitching the small filler words here, using three different types of threads for the remaining four words. I have few comments to make on the threads!



I stitched this short little "lazy" at the base of the sampler, using a relatively bright green over-dyed silk from Sassa Lynn. I liked these threads ok for this sampler. They're very soft. I think they're worked best in short lengths. I could see them being very nice threads for crazy quilting.



Here's the sampler after this word was added.



Now I ventured into this Burmilana, which I picked up on one of my shopping stops last summer while on vacation. This is the first time I've stitched with it. It's a wool and acrylic blend.



Oh my. I don't usually knock too many threads. But I don't think this one is made for surface embroidery. It is a pill. And it pills - and it fuzzes - and it's just really difficult to work with. I tried working with a crewel needle, a chenille needle, and even a milliner (thinking the round eye might wreak less havoc on the thread), stitching with short lengths of the thread, but really, what it boils down to is that this is a difficult thread to stitch with.



Perhaps, on a large-holed canvas, it may work better, and indeed, that may be what the manufacturers had in mind for this thread. But I'm pretty sure it wasn't made for surface embroidery.

The whole time I was stitching with it, I was thinking to myself, "Oh. Yuck."

And this brings me back to the whole question of embroidery supplies. If you're going to invest in supplies, do make your investment worthwhile by purchasing items you know are made for surface embroidery!



Here's the sampler so far, on an angle....



Using one strand of Pearsall's in a wheat color, I stitched this tiny "quick" in stem stitch.

Pearsall's is a nice silk. It's a little pricey, but it is a nice thread. It's softly twisted filament silk, so it has a very nice sheen. It also snags on things easily.

My advice is not to stitch with Pearsall's right after you've put up your Christmas tree - or you'll end up with a lot of these:



This is Pearsall's in red (which I used for the very last word on the sampler), after snagging it on my scratched and raw tree-fingers!



And there's the finish of my rather crowded and somewhat colorful and fairly nonsensical lettering sampler.

When you embroider text, remember the golden rule of all writing: The purpose of writing is communication! If writing does not communicate, then what is the point of writing? If your lettering does not communicate what it is meant to communicate, then the effort is wasted! Choose stitches that best communicate to your reader, and arrange the words so that they communicate your thought clearly to your reader, too. If you follow those rules, you'll have no problems with stitching readable text!

I hope you enjoyed this series! You can find the rest of it under "Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery" in the top right column, under editor's floss. There, you'll find all kinds of useful articles for beginners and beyond.

*********************************

Other News:

Don't forget my current give-away ends this Saturday, December 26th. If you'd like the opportunity to win one of Trish Burr's project CDs, don't forget to follow the directions in the original post for leaving a comment!

Speaking of that give-away, if you're in the US and you're looking for Trish's DVD / CD set, you can definitely order it through Nordic Needle, if you call them to place the order. It's not on their website yet, but they do have it in stock.

Today, I'm planning to finish the Nichole needlebook! Wish me luck. I'll share the finish with you in upcoming days.

But speaking of upcoming days, tomorrow is Christmas! Yes, I will still post - a Merry Christmas message for you, done by hand (but not stitched!). Right now, though, I'm not really replying to e-mail, unless it is urgent. If you've written in the last few days with a question, never fear - I will reply! But it may be a couple days yet. If you do have an urgent question, feel free to drop a line and let me know! I'll try to get to you sooner.

Here in the Midwest, we're anticipating a big ice and snow storm starting today, so it will be a perfect day for indoor finish work, wrapping presents, and getting ready for tomorrow.

May you have a peaceful, quiet, not-too-hectic Christmas Eve!

Labels: beginner embroidery, embroidery tips and tricks, hand embroidered lettering, Hand embroidery stitches, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, sampler, stitch along

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, December 24, 2009
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Ok, all you left-handed stitchers out there! Here's the book you've been waiting for - and guess what? If you're a right-handed stitcher, you'll be interested in this review, too!

When Yvette Stanton set out to create a left-handed stitch dictionary this past year, I never expected anything less than another excellent book by Yvette. But now that I've seen the book, my opinion has changed a little bit. You see, Yvette has written some exceptional embroidery books, so I figured this stitch dictionary would be in the same category.



But you know what? She's outdone herself on this. I'm not exaggerating! I think this is her best book yet. Yvette's other embroidery books are very topic-specific. Besides this new books, she has written a Mountmellick book, a Ukranian drawn thread book, and a Hardanger embroidery book. All of them are thorough and excellent instructional books in their specific categories.

But the Left-Handed Embroiderer's Companion is in a different category, and this is why I think it catapults to the top of the list. It is a book for everyone!



"For everyone?" you ask. "Isn't it for left-handed stitchers?"

Ok, you're right. She wrote the book for left-handed stitchers.

But, see, there are stitch dictionaries, and then there are Stitch Dictionaries. I have some absolutely favorite stitch dictionaries. And being a right-handed stitcher, I can pretty much use any stitch dictionary I want to use. Some are better than others, so I stick with a few favorites.



But Yvette's stitch dictionary, while written for left-handed stitchers, is so thorough. So totally instructional. So clear. So.... Everything you want a stitch dictionary to be!

She begins with some basics, like the question of starting and ending threads.



She discussed needles and the importance of the right needle, explaining differences in needles and so forth.



And then she launches in to the Dictionary Proper. And this is where it gets amazing. Her diagrams feature step-by-step movements of each stitch she covers. Under each diagram, she meticulously and clearly explains the step of the stitch. On each stitch page, she includes colorful photo examples of the stitch worked on fabric or felt (some gorgeous felt photos in here!) in various threads.



The background of each stitch diagram, as you can see in the photo above, is blue. But what is that pink square? Oh - yes, she includes in the right handed movement for the stitch as well! In one square, she clarifies the difference between the stitch performed by a right-handed stitcher and the stitch performed by a left-handed stitcher.



I'm a huge fan of Country Bumpkin's step-by-step photos of stitches found in their A-Z books, in Inspirations Magazine, and in their various other books (like The Embroiderer's Handbook). Since I've become so attached to the Country Bumpkin way of presenting step-by-step photos in their books, I was pretty certain drawn diagrams would never quite hold the same appeal. Yvette's diagrams are computer graphics that mimic photos - the movement of the needle and thread, the position of the fingers, etc., are all included. So although you might be tempted to think that, since she's using diagrams rather than photos, this dictionary doesn't measure up, don't worry! It does. The diagrams are perfectly clear when it comes to the movements used to create a stitch.



Many embroidery stitches have variations - and many embroidery stitches have many variations. Yvette covers variations on stitches that have them, so that you can experiment all kinds of ways of using the stitch.



And she includes in the dictionary many obscure stitches that you don't always find in stitch dictionaries. She goes beyond the basics with specialty stitches like the Mountmellick Thorn Stitch and the elusive Plaited Braid Stitch (for which she presents thorough instruction, including the questions of spacing and width).

The book features 74 stitches, and that does not include their variations! It is an amazing stitch dictionary that I know left-handers especially will appreciate because they've waited a long time for a book written for them with this kind of quality content.

But it is not limited to left-handed stitchers. As a right-handed stitcher, I am certain this is going to be one of my "go to" reference books for stitches. Furthermore, as a teacher, I know it will be invaluable in the classroom and at workshops for instructing lefties!

You can find the book on Yvette's website, Vetty Creations. I am not sure if it will be distributed in the US as well - I know her other books are available at Nordic Needle, but this one is not listed there yet. I'll try to find out if it will be sold by any distributors in the US. With the present currency exchange rate, the book ends up being about US$52 - $53, if you're ordering from the US. The price includes shipping.

Frankly, it's worth the price!

Labels: book review, embroidery resources, Hand embroidery stitches, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, December 22, 2009
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For the next word on my hand embroidered lettering sampler, I'm using a wonderful silk by Treenway Silk out of Canada, and I'm revisiting the whipped backstitch for the letters, because I like the resulting chunky-twistiness of it when worked with this silk.

In the fifth lesson of this series of tutorials on hand embroidered lettering, I addressed the whipped backstitch for producing a fine, tiny line for little letters. If you change your thread to something a bit heavier, though, you can change the look of the whipped backstitch considerably!



Treenway silk "cord" (I don't know why they call it that) is similar to about a #8 pearl cotton. It reminds me a lot of some silk buttonhole twists, but I think it actually may be slightly heavier, and perhaps slightly softer in its twist.



Anyway, whatever the case, it's a beautiful thread. It's a bit boingy, though, so you might straighten it before stitching. I like to do this over the spout of a whistling tea kettle. Just hold the silk in both hands, pulling slightly, and move it back and forth in the steam. It'll relax the kinks almost immediately. As far as "kinks" go, though, this thread isn't too bad - if you don't do anything to it to help it relax, you can solve any twisting problems as you stitch by letting your needle dangle so the thread can untwist itself. None of this is said to intimidate you from trying this thread, though - like I said, it's a beautiful thread!



I'm working on the large "Quick" on the top right corner of the sampler. I wanted to use a thread that's somewhat dark, since this is the boundary of the piece. Since the letters are large, and since this thread is a somewhat heavier thread, the whipped backstitch makes a nice bold letter here. And I like the way the thread twists and untwists with the stitch. I like the very-slightly-wiggly-look.



To keep your thread twisting in the same direction, you might have to turn your hoop and work upside down now and then. All of this is explained in Lesson 5 of this series of tutorials. You can also read my notes about the importance of stitch direction with whipped stitches, if you are curious about stitch direction.



There's a little nubby thing going on with the U there, and I'll probably have to pick that out. With thicker threads, it's sometimes difficult to join the intersections in the letters smoothly. But I didn't notice that, really, until just now!



And here's the sampler so far!

If you're looking for Treenway Silk, you can find it at Nordic Needle, where you'll find the thread accompanied by gorgeous overdyed silk ribbon that matches the various colors. Well, you already know I'm a sucker for threads - but when I see this beautiful thread paired with its ribbon counterpart, I melt! It is Really Pretty.

If you're looking for more tutorials on hand embroidered lettering and text, you can visit the index for this series of tutorials, where you'll find all 12 previous articles on the topic, full of step-by-step directions on how to write with your needle and thread!

Labels: beginner embroidery, embroidery lessons, embroidery resources, hand embroidered lettering, Hand embroidery stitches, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, silk

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, December 16, 2009
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The little motif on the back of my current project - this embroidered needlebook - is finished. There are some hiccups. Lately, and I don't know why, I always have hiccups in my needlework. Despite them, though, I like the little design on the back. For this part of the needlebook, I adopted part of the counted cross stitch design given in the kit, and then added my own surface stitching to finish the motif. I'll show you my adjustments...

In the original needlebook kit, a cross stitch pattern is supplied for the motif on the back of the needlebook, an urn filled with roses. I kept the urn, though I adjusted the count on it, and then I filled the urn with bullion rose buds and feather stitch and French knot greenery.



This is a distant shot of the urn and flowers. The flowers are one of the hiccups. I wanted them to be in approximately the same place they were plotted on the counted cross stitch chart that came with the kit. But I started them in the wrong place, and things got a bit discombobulated.



The little urn is supposed to be stitched over two threads of fabric. I decided to keep it small and stitch it over one.



At first, at the very base, I went with cross stitch, with one strand of Soie d'Alger, but you know what? It didn't work! The single thread was a bit too thick to manage a whole cross stitch, so after the base, I resorted to tent stitch, which actually worked out ok. In a macro shot, you can really see the stitches, but in person, the stitches are really too tiny to see perfectly, so you get the overall look of the urn just fine, without seeing where the tent stitches didn't quite do the job!

I like the urn a lot, even stitched as it is - half cross stitch, half tent stitch.

The roses bug me a bit, though - but NOT enough to take out and re-do them! I tried to keep them more bud-like, than full-blown roses, and so I started with the long bullion center. For a regular, full-blown bullion rose, it's easier to start with a round center. Anyway, my roses came out a little bit angular. And do you notice something about the drooping bud on the right? It's true, I resorted to two fly stitches around the dark bullion center. Why? Well, it was a combination of factors:

One, I was sick of doing bullions.

Two, I worked one there and it looked awful. I picked it out.

I stitched it again. It still looked silly. I picked it out.

I tried two bullions, overlapping. The didn't fit - they looked heavy and all wrong. I picked them out.

I stitched two fly stitches.



And here 'tis - the embroidery finished on the back. Now, it's quite done - I still have to backstitch around the outside edge (where the basting thread is) in black linen thread. The backstitching will mark and define the edge, and also provide the base for some needlelace scallops around the outside of the needlebook.

I'm not making it through this kit as quickly as I thought I would. This isn't because of the kit so much as it is a matter of having time to really stitch. I'm pleased with the kit so far - I really like it! I'm looking forward to the construction part!

Labels: counted thread embroidery techniques, embroidery kits, Embroidery Projects, Hand embroidery stitches, needlework pictures, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, December 07, 2009
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Last weekend, I showed you the Big Mistake on the monogram on the needlebook I'm presently embroidering. Most of the feedback on the monogram pushed me to fix the problem on the loop of the T. You were all pretty much right! It was bugging me too much to leave it the way it was, so I picked it out and fixed the stitching. I'll tell you a bit about that...

Below, you can see the original "finished" embroidery on the monogram, with the mistake on the upward loop of the body of the T. This really bugged me more than I realized at first.



Do you ever start a project, greatly enthusiastic about it, run into a snag, and find that you lose steam right away because of that mistake? This is what was happening to me with the monogram. I disliked it so much that I found myself losing interest in finishing the project! And that's bad, because not only did I invest a bit in the kit, but I really Like the kit a lot. How could I let a mistake sit there, turning me off the whole piece?

So I finally buckled down and made myself sit down to fix the stitching.



And this is the fix. Much better, I think. I know it isn't exackitackily Perfect, but I'm happy with it now! The funny thing was that I pictured myself spending hours trying to fix this, gritting my teeth in frustration the whole time. In reality, I made a few snips with the scissors, careful not to cut any of the padding threads, then removed the stitches back to a reasonable point to work up to the area of The Mistake.

It took me a whole ten minutes to fix the problem.



The moral of the story: from now on, when something in my stitching is bugging me, I will correct it right away. No more pining over mistakes and building them up in my mind as insurmountable errors!

I finished the front of the needlebook in the same sitting as correcting The Mistake. So far, I'm pleased with it, and the more I work it, the more pleasure I get from it. I'm quite twitterpated with this kit!

If you're looking for this needlebook kit, you can order it from The Mad Samplar. It's called "Nichole," and it's one of a series of needlebook kits designed by Roberta Chase and distributed by Access Commodities. There will soon be a fourth one of these kits on the market - but I haven't seen the third one yet. I'm hoping to track it down one of these days to see what it looks like! Has anyone else run across it? I'd love to see a photo.

Dont Forget!

If you haven't signed up for this week's Brazilian Embroidery Give-Away, today's your last chance! I'm drawing a winner tomorrow morning at 5:00 am CST. It's a great opportunity to win a Brazilian embroidery kit, a very nice book, threads, a mesh project bag, and even the right needles! So stop by at the original post, read the instructions for the give-away, and leave a comment before today's over!

Now, on to the back of the needle book!

Labels: counted thread embroidery techniques, Embroidery Projects, embroidery resources, Hand embroidery stitches, needlework pictures, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, December 03, 2009
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This past weekend, I actually managed to get some stitching in! While I didn't progress a whole lot on the needlebook I'm working on, I did manage some trial-and-error (mostly error!) with satin stitching, which I thought I'd share with you. This is one of those "teaching moments" that translates into "don't make the same mistakes I make!"

I mentioned earlier when I showed you this needlebook embroidery kit that the fabric is not necessarily ideal for surface embroidery. Still, it works. But it can be frustrating at times!



First, I finished the top bar of the T, but I'm not too keen on that squiggle right in the middle. From a distance, it's not noticeable enough to pick the stitching out!



I also managed filling the bulk of the monogram.



Again, I'm using split stitch on the edge (which you can see clearly on the left edge of the letter there) and then filling with long split stitches and straight stitches. You can also see in the photo above the open weave of the fabric - great for counted work, but more difficult for surface embroidery, especially stitches like satin stitch.



The upwards loop on the T is also outlined and filled, ready for satin stitching.



I began satin stitching on the body of the T (the back spine, more or less) in the direction you see in the photo above. I thought this slant would make the little off-shoot curls easier to handle.



I didn't like the stitching. See how the edges jog in where the arrows are pointing? Was this a problem with the fabric, or with my stitching? Well, it'd be nice to have an excuse - to be able to say it's the fabric! - but this wasn't necessarily the case! Still, I'm finding it hard to see the lines clearly for stitching on this fabric, and the colors don't help much either. The grey is difficult to see on top of the natural linen, so judging the very edge was a bit frustrating.



I picked the stitching out (careful not to cut any of the padding or outlining underneath!), and re-stitched. I was much more satisfied with the edge - it's much cleaner...



... but good golly, Miss Molly! That thing, in the circle up there, looks bizarre, to say the least!



So I picked all the stitching out again! (Well, sometimes, you just have to!) Where the arrow is pointing, you can see how the actual threads of the fabric have to be split, in order for the satin stitching to look good.



Ah. Now things are looking better!

I decided to go with very little slant in the satin stitching, right in the middle of the back of the T. As I work downwards and upwards on the curve, I know I'll have to slant my stitches a bit, but right in the middle, I found that horizontal stitches worked pretty well.

I'm much more satisfied with this bit of satin stitching! Whew.

Like I said... I didn't progress a whole lot. But hey! Every bit counts!

Hope you have a great Monday!

Labels: embroidery kits, Embroidery Projects, embroidery tips and tricks, Hand embroidery stitches, monograms, needlework pictures, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, November 23, 2009
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One thing I've found as I've progressed on this hand embroidered lettering sampler is that, while there are lots and lots of hand embroidery stitches out there, not all of them are wholly suited to lettering. Since lettering demands clarity (after all, you want your reader to be able to read it!), it's important to select stitches that will produce clear text.

In this tutorial, I'm combining herringbone stitch (for the thick part of the initial letter) with split stitch for the rest of the lettering. For thread, I'm using Stef Francis silk, which is a first for me. I've got quite a few skeins of Stef Francis silk, but to tell you the truth, I've never used it until now. I wanted a rich purply color, and I wanted a thread with a bit more texture, so this thread suited my needs.



The thread is variegated, and, although it's silk, it has a bit of fuzziness to it, kind of like a soft wool. I like it a lot!



Between the two parallel lines that form the backbone of the L on "Lazy" I'm working a closed herringbone stitch. Basically, this is just herringbone stitch worked close together, so there isn't any space (or at least, not much!) between the stitches. So, first you go down in your fabric - a bit away from your last stitch in order to give you room to come up right next to your last stitch.



When you come up, you come up right next to your last stitch, to close the gap you left when you took your needle down into the fabric. To understand this clearly, it helps to know the movement of the herringbone stitch - if you're unfamiliar with it, check out my herringbone stitch video tutorial, which may be somewhat helpful.



When you cross over to the other side of your stitching area (to the opposite parallel line), you'll take your needle down into the fabric a little bit away from your last stitch. You can see the gap in the photo above. Then you come up inside that gap and cross back over to the other side, working in this manner down between the parallel lines.



As you get to the base of the spine of the L, where things narrow up a bit, just move your lines closer and closer, filling in as best as you can, keeping your stitch movement the same. It'll fill right in to a narrow point.



You can see pretty clearly where the variegation kicks in on this thread. After I stitched it, this block of color change was rather disappointing, but I've gotten used to it now and I don't mind it too much. I'm not really keen on variegation, when it happens in such segmented blocks of color. But, still... I liked stitching with this thread!



After finishing the spine of the L, I jumped down to embroider the base line of the L, using split stitch. Since I've already covered split stitch in a previous lettering tutorial, I won't bore you with the details - I'll just show you how the letters progressed from this point!



Here's the base line of the L. A hint on this thread: After stitching a bit with the same strand, it gets fuzzy just like wool does, so it's helpful to start a fresh piece, if you want a really nice looking split stitch. I am not quite satisfied with this base line. (But no, I didn't pick it out!)



I liked the curl on the top of the L much better. It was stitched with a fresh strand of thread.



Here are the rest of the letters, all worked in split stitch, too.



And here's the sampler so far! It's growing on me, the more I work on it. I like the variety of colors and stitches, and I think it would be fun to do a much more meaningful phrase (or saying, poem, proverb, etc.) in the same mixed-up manner - it'd make a great little gift for someone, to stitch up something like this, but with something a bit more profound, personal, or pertinent.

If you're just joining in on these lessons on embroidered writing, I've posted all the previous lessons in under the Hand Embroidered Lettering Index. You're welcome to check them out!

Next up in this series is a really bright and crazy word - with combined stitches and a few added touches to liven the word up a bit.

If you have any suggestions, comments, questions, and the like, don't hesitate to leave a comment below!

Enjoy the weekend!

Labels: beginner embroidery, embroidery tips and tricks, hand embroidered lettering, Hand embroidery stitches, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, November 20, 2009
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