Sometimes, photos of needlework can be the best source of inspiration for me. When I see a beautiful piece of needlework in a photo, it makes me..... well. It makes me want to DO something - to make something beautiful! But the fact o' the matter is, there just aren't enough hours in the day, days in the week, weeks in the year to do all the needlework things I'd like to do! Do you ever feel that way? So, often, I content myself with looking at pictures. And along those lines, here are some photos of magnificent examples of Schwalm whitework embroidery.

These first two pieces belong to a friend, Joey, who helped Luzine Happel with the translation of two of her Schwalm embroidery books, Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework and Fancy Hems.



This first piece is a teacloth embroidered by Luzine. Isn't it gorgeous? You can click on the photo for a closer view of it. The stitching is so stunning! Check out the variety of filling stitches!



This second piece is a decorative pillow, with the Schwalm work covering a red pillow - which makes the whitework stand out beautifully. I had not considered finishing a whitework pillow this way, with a contrasting fabric behind the whitework, but it makes all the sense in the world if you really want to show off the whitework. Again, you can click on the photo for a larger version.



The books above are published by the Museum der Schwalm in Germany. The books are a kind of photographic journal of the pieces that have been featured in the museum's displays. Talk about inspiration!



Here's one piece featured in one of the books. Pretty, isn't it? I don't know if it's exactly "traditional" Schwalm embroidery as far as design goes - the design seems a bit more contemporary. I like it a lot!



A lampshade! I think I would love to have this in my house... but I can't help wondering if it would stay this pristine? I'd feel obliged to put it under glass to keep the Kansas dust off it!

Yep, I do love to browse through these types of books!! They goad me into doing something with my needle and thread.

A Give-Away!

Now, speaking of Schwalm work (again), I'd like to give away another book. Joey sent me a copy of Fancy Hems, but since I already have one, I thought it would be a good opportunity to put this excellent book into some other keen stitcher's hands.

You can read my thorough review of Fancy Hems here on Needle 'n Thread, to see what the book is about. Note that it's not just for stitchers interested in Schwalm whitework. Anyone interested in drawn thread or pulled thread embroidery will find this book useful and instructive.



If you'd like to win this copy of Fancy Hems, here's how the give-away works:

Leave a comment below (on this article, on the website - not via e-mail or on other posts), answering the following question:

If you could launch into a Schwalm project right now, assuming you have the materials and instructions at hand, what would you make?

Make sure you leave a name, even if you use the "anonymous" feature when posting your comment. I'll draw for a winner on Wednesday, October 28th, by 5:30 am.

Best of luck!

Labels: Book Give-Away, needlework pictures, pictures, regional embroidery techniques, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, October 26, 2009
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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, October 12, 2009
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Just to convince you that I do still pick up a needle and thread now and then and do some stitching, I thought I'd give you an update on the Schwalm embroidery project I'm working on. The project comes from Basic Principles of Schwalm Embroidery by Luzine Happel, and although it seems as if I began the project a hundred years ago, I haven't gotten very far on it! So, to make up for the lack of noteworthy progress in stitching, I think I'll throw in a give-away!

First, the Schwalm whitework project! I've managed to get through the first two steps on one side of the square in the middle of the teacloth.



Woe is me! I know that looks just awful - a wrinkled mess! I don't want to iron it until I've finished the stitching and washed it because the transfer marks might set.

So far, I've outlined in coral stitch and I've done all the buttonhole scallops and wheels.

Not very impressive. *sigh*



I worked this mostly in hand (without a hoop). I think this lends to the general wrinkled appearance of the linen!

When working the buttonhole scallops, at first I progressed without a hoop, and it went ok, but I found it wasn't so easy to manipulate that much fabric while trying to work the scallops. I ended up wadding the linen up in one hand while stitching with the other.



Eventually, though, I decided to hoop the project up for the rest of the scallops and wheels. Stitching the scallops with a hoop seemed much easier!



I enjoyed stitching this part of the project. If I had all four sides of the square done, it would've been nice to keep going and going on buttonhole scallops and circles. It's a fun stitch! But my design has faded too much on the other three sides of the square, so I can't really do anything on those parts until I re-transfer the design.

So that's my progress right now on this project.

Now, for a give-away!

Thanks to Joey, who sent me an extra copy of Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework, I am offering this book to an interested reader who wants to try (or improve upon) techniques of Schwalm embroidery. Schwalm is a beautiful form of whitework, and the stitches learned in the technique can be widely applied to other embroidery styles.

If you're interested in owning your own copy of this superb book, leave a comment below (on this post, on the website) letting me know you're interested in the book. Please make sure you sign your name to the comment, even if you use the "Anonymous" feature.

The give-away deadline is Monday, October 12, 2009, at 5:30 am CST.

If all goes as planned tomorrow, I'm going to spend Friday evening making some serious progress on this piece! I want to get to the point of drawing out the threads for the center fillings - wish me luck!

Labels: Book Give-Away, needlework pictures, pictures, regional embroidery techniques, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, October 08, 2009
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Schwalm whitework embroidery is often used to adorn tablecloths, table runners, and household linens of various kinds. Besides the beautiful and lace-like embroidery featured on Schwalm pieces, Schwalm work often depends upon the finishing of the embroidered piece with a fancy hem. A couple months ago, I introduced you to Luzine Happel's thorough book on Schwalm embroidery - Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework - which was newly translated into English. Today, I want to show you her latest book translated into English, Fancy Hems.

Fancy Hems is a book that any needleworker interested in drawn thread embroidery or whitework would find interesting, informative, and useful. It is not merely for folks interested in Schwalm embroidery in particular. The techniques explained in the book are suited to any kind of drawn thread work, really.



Like Luzine's Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework, Fancy Hems is a self-published book.



Within its pages, you will find step-by-step instructions for creating the fancy openwork and drawn thread hems that often accompany Schwalm embroidery.



The instructions are cleary photographed, so that you can follow each step of embroidery. And the English text is clear and precise.



The book begins with simpler fancy hems and works its way slowly to more complex hems.



Featured throughout the book are pictures of magnificent embroidery that has been "finished" with the addition of a beautiful hem. Each type of hem is thoroughly explained and demonstrated in the book.



Watching the intricate designs of the hems unfold before your eyes, though the photos, is amazing - Luzine makes it look so simple! And because her instructions are good, creating a unqiue and intricate embellished hem area does become relatively simple.



All the basics are discussed, by the way, before venturing into the more complex embellishment. So, if working something like the above drawn thread bars featured in the text, you not only learn how to embellish the bars, but you learn the basics of how to create the bars in the first place - a nice tidbit of instruction for those interested in drawn thread work in general.



The types of hems featured in the book range from narrower bars to composite hems, made up of a variety of different "bars" stacked together, as in this magificent piece below:



Wouldn't it be something to finish the edge of a tea cloth like this? It's amazing, isn't it?

In the most recent issue of Piecework Magazine (Sept. / Oct. 2009), a one-page article focus on an embroidery guild group in Canada who began working through the Fancy Hems book, each creating their own fancily-hemmed cloth. I think that would be a fun and challenging group project - to take a book like this and have each person compile their own "stack" of hemming motifs. I was glad to see that article in Piecework.

But even more than that, I was so happy to see Luzine's newly-translated book, which will certainly become The Definitive Guide to drawn-thread fancy hems.

If you're interested in obtaining a copy of this book, feel free to contact Luzine via e-mail. She takes Paypal, which makes ordering from Germany very easy.

I have to thank Luzine for sending me the book, which was quickly followed by a real treasure chest of Schwalm related instructional and inspirational books - and some linen! Oh, linen! How I love linen! Thank you, Luzine!

Luzine has actually self-published a whole slew of books in German on Schwalm embroidery, and I do eventually want to show you all of them. They are amazing - and So Thorough! A few are in English, but most are in German. Still, the step-by-step photos make the books accessible even for those of us who don't speak or read German. In the meantime, though, if you are looking for books on filling stitches for Schwalm work or drawn thread embroidery, you can ask Luzine what she has available. One of her books instructs on 175 (yes, 175! - that's a LOT!) filling patterns. It's amazing!

She also has a really nice book of Schwalm patterns for a variety of projects. I'm really looking forward to making use of it. The more I look at Schwalm work, the more I fall in love with it! And she's got some really pretty patterns in this book. I'll review that one a bit later, in detail, so you can see what it looks like. And she included some little books from the Schwalm Museum in Germany - they're full of clear black and white photos of various Schwalm pieces. Oh, if I could just reproduce them for you here! I think you'd be in awe of the work!

The thing that really attracts me about Schwalm whitework is that, though it is predominantly whitework, the techniques involved spill over into so many other areas of surface embroidery, while at the same time integrating extensive drawn thread and pulled thread techniques. I think that's why I had so much fun with my Schwalm chicken and pomegranate on my whitework sampler.

And what about my Schwalm project that's currently underway (taken from Luzine's Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework)? Well, I did indeed make the switch from another project so that I can focus on the Schwalm project during my 15-minute sessions, and I have enjoyed working on it in spurts. I actually accomplished a good bit of stitching on Wednesday afternoon of this week, which was nice for a change! I've finished the buttonhole stitching on one motif, and I'm ready to move on to the chain stitching, before starting the filling. I'm having fun with it - I'll update you with progress photos soon!

In the meantime, if you're interested in any of Luzine's books, drop her an e-mail.

Have a terrific Friday!

Labels: book review, drawn thread embroidery, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, October 02, 2009
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Last week, I showed you my set-up for the Schwalm embroidery project I'm working on, from Luzine's book, Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework Embroidery. Well, after a slight kerfuffle, all is underway again, and I've even begun stitching.

I've just managed to stitch in some of the coral stitch outlines around the motifs on only one of the four sides of the tea cloth design. I've discovered a couple points I'll share with you here. Even if you aren't interested particularly in Schwalm whitework, they may serve you in some other embroidery-related endeavor!



Frist of all, when working coral stitch, it's helpful to work up a bit of a "rhythm" to the stitch. When I first started stitching the coral stitch outlines, I didn't realize how important it is to really concentrate on getting the rhythm of the stitch. I'd stitch a wee bit, then get interrupted, add a few more stitches a bit later, get interrupted, etc. These stitches are uneven and inconsistently spaced. Over all, I don't think this will show up in the finished piece, so I'm not that worried about it. But once I had a stretch of time to stitch, I found that the stitch became quite quick to work and the spacing and tension of the knots evened out considerably.



I'm an avid hoop or embroidery frame user. You probably have realized that if you've been reading me for very long! But - not all stitching is for the hoop! In my mind, some stitching simply requires a hoop or frame. For example, I would not, personally, attempt a nice satin stitch, any kind of drawn thread work, or needlepainting without one. But then, there are some stitches that work out better in hand. "In hand" implies embroidery that is stitched with the fabric held in the hand, without the aid of a hoop or frame or any other device to supply tension. And coral stitch - especially in the quantity on this Schwalm piece - works best in hand.

Not only does the stitch work up a whole lot faster, but the tension is overall better on each knot, when worked in hand rather than in a hoop. That's what I found, anyway!



Another thing I have discovered while stitching this piece in hand: the watercolor pencils I tested for transferring an embroidery design tend to rub off and fade, due to the touching and holding of the fabric. The other three sides of the Schwalm design have more or less faded off, and I will have to retrace them. On the side I'm working on, I'm having to retrace each element of the design as I get to it. C'est la vie!

I've got a couple ideas to test about design transfer - including Papermate Flair Ultra Fine markers - specifically in green. A kind reader wrote and told me that's what she uses, and the green works well (the other colors not as well). I'm eager to try this - I wonder how it will work with white threads on white fabric. (Thanks for that tip, Jean!)

In the meantime, I suppose I'll stick with re-tracing as I go. Though I might just break out the regular water-soluble fabric marker.... we'll see. Those tend to fade, too, a bit. But maybe they would hold up better than the pencils are right now!

Anyway, whichever direction I go with the design transfer, I'll be sure to keep you posted.

In the meantime, I'll keep plugging away with the Schwalm project. I like working on it so far! And I'm looking forward to adding different stitches - I think buttonhole scallops are next.

Oh, and a final thing I've learned: I take rotten photos of white-on-white embroidery. I need to research a bit to find out how to remedy that! Any tips you all may have would be wildly welcomed!

That's my project update. What are you up to? Whatever it is, I hope you're enjoying wielding your needle, too!

Labels: embroidery tips and tricks, needlework pictures, pictures, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, August 18, 2009
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Before the school year gets underway in a mere week and a half (where DOES the summer go?!), I wanted to get several embroidery projects set up. I'm teaching five courses this semester, so I know my needlework time will be limited once school starts, especially during the first month while getting the routine underway. I'm planning to go back to the 15 Minutes Plan, but I can only do that if I have projects ready to stitch.

With that in mind, then, I set about setting up a project! This is the Schwalm Whitework teacloth that is featured in Luzine's book, Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework.

I began by measuring out the linen to the prescribed 80 x 80 cm. Instead of working in centimeters, I converted everything to inches - which was probably silly. Anyway, I cut the linen to 31.5" square, pulling out threads to make sure the linen was cut on the weave. Then, I zig-zagged the edges on the sewing machine, so that I wouldn't have stray threads falling off the edge of the linen.

The linen I'm using is from Germany (thank you, Joey!) and is the preferred linen for Schwalm whitework. It's called Weddigen Linen, and it's available through Das Handarbeitshaus. (If you don't read German, you can drop that in Google's translator, and get a very good translation.) It comes in two thread counts: approx. 35 threads per inch, and approximately 50 threads per inch. I'm using the 35.

Once all the linen preparation was done, I divided the linen in half with basting lines, vertically and horizontally, then marked off the square for the pattern with basting stitches, too. The book calls for 20 cm in each direction, to form approximately a 40cm square for the design. I converted that to inches, and blocked off a 15.5" square, and then also basted in the diagonals on the square. How to do all of this - and why - is explained in the book.

Anyway, I found that the pattern was a bit small for a 15.5" square, so I took the square in an inch all around, and was a bit more satisfied with the layout. Then....

I started tracing. The book suggests an iron-on pencil or pen for transferring the pattern, and I have to admit, that would be about ten million times easier. But I have an aversion to iron-on transfer pencils and pens, because I know they don't come out all the way, despite the method of removal. I decided instead to use a watercolor pencil, and I traced the design.

To trace the design, I lined it up with all the correct lines on the fabric, then I pinned it on and placed it over a light box. It was "easy enough" in concept, but it took a long time! But, once it was finished - it was finished!



Once the design was transferred, my next step was to assemble all my threads. I took out my box of whitework threads, to find this general mess:



I've been telling myself for a while that I need to inventory my threads. These threads get used all the time, and they're not easy to come by. You generally can't find whitework threads (coton a broder) at your local needlework / sewing / craft or hobby store - or at least, I can't! So whenever I need a particular thread, I have to order it online. Still, it looked as if I might have enough!



I sorted them all out, and grouped them according to size. I had sizes 12 through 40, in the following quantities:

#12 - 3 skeins
#16 - 14 skeins + 1 partial
#20 - 4 skeins
#25 - 11 skeins + 2 partial
#30 - 7 skeins + 3 partial
#40 - 3 skeins + 1 partial

I put them all in individual bags, according to size. I'll probably order a few skeins of #20 this week, since I'm relatively low on it, and it's a popular size for many of the stitches in this project.

In the book, it's very nice to have a thread chart that indicates the particular stitches for which each weight of thread is used. Size #50 coton a broder is mentioned (you can use #50 or #40), but I can't find #50 available at any shops here in the States, so I'll stick with #40, which is also becoming increasingly hard to find.



I also had a pile of loose threads that didn't have tags on them, so I have no idea what size they are. Let this be a lesson! Always make sure you have a way to identify your thread sizes. These won't go to waste, of course. I will use them randomly here and there on little projects, like my fish.



Then, I dug through my needle box, and found I had the right sized needles. The book calls for chenille needles and tapestry needles in specific sizes. I had plenty of tapestry, but no chenille, so I'm substituting crewel needles in corresponding sizes.



With everything gathered for the project, I packed the threads and needles away in a mesh zipper bag.



Everything's together and ready to go - ain't that grand??!

But the best thing was that I still had some time (it was only 9:30 pm - I had to stop at 9:45, for company coming) so I decided to actually start on the stitching!



Before working with coton a broder, it's a good idea to prepare your thread. I've got a little tutorial here on Needle 'n Thread about preparing coton a broder for stitching - how to handle these types of "hanks" of embroidery cotton. Incidentally, this is the same method that Luzine suggests in her book. So I prepared a skein of #16 for stitching by braiding it with the paper tags left on, so that I can identify the size.

Then....

I threaded my needle...



It was time to start stitching!

... and that's when the timer went off. Time was up! But it was a good evening's work, and I'm ready to go at my next stitching opportunity!

*******************************************

Other News:

If you haven't signed up yet for my Historic Needlework give-away, there's still time! Visit the original post and read the information on how to sign up!

Today, I'm moving. Not moving, moving. Just sort of moving. My habitat (cave, hovel, whatever you want to call it) is getting a little facelift, so all my computer stuff is being shifted to the studio. The Internet People (Wamego Telecommunications) are coming today to put in a new internet line out the studio, so I'll still be able to work online while the remodeling is being done. The point of all this unwanted personal information is simply to let you know that, if you don't hear from me tomorrow (?!), it's because something went wrong!

Now, I'm off to make room for Technology, so that I don't have to rest my PC on beds of embroidery thread....

Labels: Embroidery Projects, embroidery tips and tricks, needlework pictures, pictures, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, August 13, 2009
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If you've gotten to know me a bit through Needle 'n Thread, you've probably figured out that I like books - and I love needlework books. Occasionally, I read a needlework book from cover to cover, but it's rather a rare thing for me to do, especially if it is a book on a specific needlework technique. In such cases, I "scan" - I look for the information I need. For the first time in a long time, I read a needlework book from cover to cover yesterday. It wasn't hard to do, as the book is filled with pictures, and the text is made up of clear, succinct instruction.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel is a self-published book that I think will become the definitive guide to learning Schwalm embroidery. The English version, recently edited by Joey Colbert (who formerly owned a great little embroidery shop called Twining Thread) and with an introduction by her, is one of the best instructional books that I've seen focusing on teaching a specific needlework technique.



Do not be put off by the fact that this is a self-printed book bound with a plastic comb. I say that because I've purchased many such printed books, and some of them have been complete fizzers, even though written and sold by rather well-known names in the needlework world. This book is not a fizzer.

The book is printed in color on nice paper, bound with a plastic comb, and has a clear plastic cover. The binding, actually, is an advantage - the book lays flat on the table, which is a boon for stitchers who are following the instructions within.

The book is written around one (beautiful!) Schwalm whitework project which incorporates all the major aspects of Schwalm embroidery, including many filling techniques, from simple to intricate. The premise is that, if you work through the project - a small decorative square linen with a Schwalm design around the four sides - you will become familiar with, and practice, all the techniques involved in Schwalm whitework, including excellent finishing techniques. The author takes you through every step of the way and leaves no question unanswered.



After beginning with a discussion of materials (fabrics, threads, tools), Luzine shows you, through pictures and text, how to set up your fabric and transfer your project so that you begin on the right foot.

This section alone would be of interest to any stitcher, regardless of technique preferences, because the principles in the set-up of this project apply to setting up practically any embroidery project. The proper marking of the fabric so that the design is centered and lined up perfectly, the transfer of the pattern, including transferring an extra corner piece - all this information is useful to the hand embroiderer.



You can see here a glimpse of the design. On the right page, in the left corner of the design, you can see how the extra motif for the corner is being aligned with the rest of the design.



Luzine addresses the question of how to treat your threads - how to arrange them for easy access and in a way that keeps them neat and organized as you work through the project.



The stitches are explained with step-by-step photos, but more interestingly, the whole progress of the projects is explained with step-by-step photos, too. Each time you get through a stage of the project, a complete picture of the area is given, so you can see what it's supposed to look like at the end of that stage.

Little red arrows in the photos point to the areas that require special attention - a little instructional hint on how to come to a perfect point, for example, or how to end a thread, or where to come up next, etc. (Like I said, no question is left unanswered!)



Progressing to the next stage, you're taken step-by-step through it, and then given a clear picture of what your work should look like at the end of the stage.



Since different results are often desired from the same stitch (for example, depending on the shape of the leaf, satin stitches will be worked differently), Luzine includes photos of all the results you will want to achieve, discussing them and explaining how to achieve them.



One of the most beautiful aspects of Schwalm whitework is the variety of fillings used inside the various motifs. There are three basic approaches to fillings in Schwalm, and the author explains all three, then takes you through different stitches within the three categories. The project incorporates all different types of fillings, working you from the basic to the more intricate.



Close-up photos and detailed explanation take you through what could be tricky ground. This is the aspect of Luzine's book that I prefer vastly over Christine Bishop's book, Schwalm Embroidery Techniques and Designs, which I've already reviewed. While I like Christine's book and find it informative and inspiring, when it comes to actual stitch explanations (especially in the filling techniques) and their sketched diagrams, the book leaves the novice stitcher with questions that require troubleshooting. Luzine's explanations of the filling techniques used in Schwalm are clear, precise, and well illustrated.



And, again, as you go, you get the photos of the work as you complete a stage.



Now, in many technique books, the finish work is either neglected completely, or, if finishing is discussed, it is in the most generic of terms. Not so in this book. The author takes you through every step of finishing the project.



The finishing section alone is worth the book, for anyone interested in any kind of drawn thread or whitework embroidery that requires hemming with a decorative edge. Once you understand the principles, you can apply them to a variety of decorative treatments.



Finally, in the back of the book, you'll find two semi-transparent pages with clear line drawings of the motifs used in the project. These are marked with dashed lines on the center points, so that you can line up the design precisely on your fabric.

Now, the book is available, but it has to be ordered from Germany either directly from Luzine or from the Museum der Schwalm website in Germany, which is rather difficult to order from. This is the direct link to Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel at Museum der Schwalm. Better yet, you can contact Luzine directly for the book and she can send you a Paypal invoice (which is much easier!). Her e-mail is leuchtbergverlag [at] aol [dot] com.

The price is a bit daunting, I know, at 29.9 EURO (about $42US). And you might think that, because it isn't a professionally published book, it couldn't be worth that. I think it is worth that. If you want to learn Schwalm, or you want to explore it further and learn some of the tips and tricks, I think this is the best book for doing so. There's just no comparison between it and the other two popular Schwalm books on the market (Christine Bishop's and Renate Fernau's). While both of those feature beautiful embroidery - and the sampler in Christine's book is really nice! - the actual instruction in both books fall short when compared to this book, in my opinion.

So, if you're interested in Schwalm or whitework in general, I think this is a book to add to your library!

Since reading it, I've decided (ut oh!) that, with the exception of the current long and short stitch stuff I'm preparing for the website, my next "complete" project - as in "real" and "serious" project, is going to be this piece. It's beautiful. And I want to learn from Luzine!! Don't be surprised, then, to see me setting up this project in the next few weeks!

[The Fine Print: No affiliation here - just a Really Good Book that I think you'll like if you're interested in whitework!]

Labels: book review, embroidery resources, pictures, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, July 17, 2009
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Last time I was playing with my whitework embroidery sampler, I was beginning the cutwork motif. Here, I've got the pattern for you AND the incredible progress I've made on the cutwork motif! How exciting!

Well, I already feel bad about saying that - not a fib; rather an exaggerated jest: I have made very little progress on the cutwork motif. Still, every little bit counts, right?

Here's the design for you, in case you ever want to use it for cutwork - or for any other kind of embroidery or craft usage, for that matter. You can click on it for a slightly larger image (and a larger file size!).



And, if you want, here's a PDF version:

Cutwork Design for Hand Embroidery

You can size the pattern up or down if you want. If you size it up, it may take more time, but you could also work with heavier threads to cover more ground a little faster.

Here's my progress on the cutwork design so far:



Oh. I know you're impressed!

Actually, I was debating whether or not I should put progress photos up at all - it practically seems pointless! But, still, there it is!

I transferred the design using the tissue-paper-and-tacking-stitches method, which has worked well so far with this design.



There it is, up close. I was debating about whether or not I would go with fine bars. Sometimes, the attaching bars on cutwork are mere threads, you see... and that lends to a very delicate, lacy look - absolutely beautiful on fine white linen. But given that this fabric is a little coarser than normal (for most fine cutwork, that is), I decided to go with a heavier look on the bars and on the overcasting around the edges of the design.

I plan to get some photo tutorials up on cutwork eventually, once I make a little more progress on this piece.

Now, to step backwards a bit, remember the monogram I set up for the sampler? The plan on that seems to be taking a different direction in my head. Initially, I wanted to do some trailing (which is super-raised satin stitch, over a bunch of cords), but I'm thinking about another technique right now - something... something a bit odd. On the wide parts of the letter, what think you of a raised stem stitch? Or casalguidi? I was kind of thinking it might be fun to do something not-quite-as-typical-of-whitework, and with a bit of texture. Anyway, that idea's ripening right now. We'll see what it develops into... If I keep plugging away at the cutwork, it'll have plenty of time to ripen, that's certain!

Funny thing is, while I was working the bars in that tiny bit there, I had the sudden desire to finish up the Schwalm pomegranate right below the cutwork motif. If I had students bouncing around like this, I'd tell them to settle down, take a deep breath, and FOCUS! Physician, heal thyself!

I suppose the next time we come back to the whitework sampler, we'll all be surprised at what transpired!

Enjoy the pattern - hope you find it useful!

Labels: cutwork, drawn thread embroidery, free embroidery patterns, needlework pictures, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, March 25, 2009
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Here's a really simple drawn thread embroidery treatment that you can work with coral knots. Once you've bunched up threads this way, there are further possibilities of embellishment, too, so this is just a basic treatment which can be further expanded with other embellishment.

The coral knot stitch in drawn thread embroidery is often used to bunch together threads. If you haven't looked at the photo tutorial for the coral knot, you may wish to, since this basic treatment depends on the coral knot.



Beginning with a relatively wide strip with threads withdrawn, anchor your working thread in the satin stitch bars on the right. Take the working thread up from this central point to the top of the vertical threads. You can work as many coral knots across the top as you'd like - it depends on how many bunches of vertical threads you want to group together. Here, I'm grouping together four bunches of vertical threads, so I'm working four coral knots, one around each bunch.

Then, move your thread down to the bottom of the area of withdrawn threads, and work an equal number of coral knots around the bunches. Move back up to the top, and group together the same number of bunches. Continue across the whole strip, then anchor the working thread behind the satin stitch bars at the middle point of the edge (exactly opposite where you began in the right side satin stitch bars).



Return to the right side of the piece, and anchor your working thread in the same place behind the satin stitch bars.

Now, work down then up with your coral knot bunches, so that your working thread crosses over the thread of the previous journey, to form an "X" between the groups of coral knot bunches.

Continue this across to the left side of the area, then anchor the working thread behind the satin stitch bars where you anchored your previous thread.



Now you have a simple "canvas" for further embellishment, if you like. Or, you can leave it as it is. I decided to try some woven wheels around the "X" between the coral knot groups...



But, to tell you the truth, it is my least favorite motif on the sampler. The wheels are not quite even, they look "heavy" compared to the rest of the work around them, and I don't like the vertical white threads. But - live and learn! That's the whole point of a sampler!

Next time I work this basic motif, I'm going to work an opened diamond in the middle of the coral knot groups. I think that'll look nice... When I get to that point, I'll show you how to do it!

For further information:

More Drawn Thread and Whitework Embroidery

Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Re-Weaving
Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Satin Stitch
Drawn Thread - Hemstitch Tutorial
Drawn Thread - Chain Loop Bunches
Sampler Update with Schwalm Embroidery
Online Book on Drawn Thread Techniques
Diamond Stitch in Drawn Thread Work
Coral Knot Bunches in Drawn Thread Embroidery
Zig-Zags in Drawn Thread Embroidery
All Whitework Articles on Needle 'n Thread

You can find more tips and tricks for hand embroidery - including all the above tutorials - indexed on my Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery page.

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, March 24, 2009
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Last night, I was enthusiastically starting into the cutwork motif on my whitework sampler. I finished transferring the cutwork design and picking off all the paper and was super-eager to start stitching on it, just to see how it would go. So I started stitching, and to celebrate the occasion, I made a rather bumbling and obvious mistake!

Cutwork is a kind of whitework embroidery where the design is stitched along the edges, usually with little attached bars of sorts between different design elements, and then the background fabric in parts of the design is cut away. Here's an example from an old post on whitework, where I reviewed the A-Z of Whitework, Book One:



Here, you can see that the outline around the cutwork area and the bars between the outline's lines are all about the same size, and the cutwork looks kind of "squarish."



Here, it's slightly different - the "bars" are not as bar looking, but look more like long web-like strands.

In both examples above, the main elements of the design have been stitched around the edges with overcast stitch, which is simply satin stitch worked in a very narrow line all around the outline. The way it works is this: you have your design. You stitch a running stitch around the area to be cut out. Then, the first thing you stitch are the bars, by the passing the thread back and forth wherever you want the bars, and then either overcasting them or buttonholing them on the return journey. Then, you stitch the edges, either with overcast stitch or buttonhole stitch. I'll show you up-close how it's done... eventually!

Well, I was very enthusiastic to get started on my cutwork motif after getting the design down. Funny. After transferring the monogram, I was keen to start on it, to the detriment of finishing the drawn threadwork, which I was eager to start on to the detriment of finishing the Schwalm pomegranate. I can't keep doing this!



But can you blame me, really? Doesn't that just look fun?

This is the cutwork motif. I like it a LOT. I LOVE IT! If I can do it justice, I will really be thrilled with it. So far, I think it's my favorite bit on this sampler - but I know it's also going to be the most tedious bit!

When you realize how much I love the design, can you forgive me for jumping around so sporadically and inconsistently?!

Anyway, my plan with this particular design was to use a cord underneath the overcast stitch along the edges, to make those stitches stand up. I want a bit of "relief" on the design - some height and definition in the outlines. One of the reasons is because of the relative roughness of the fabric. Mostly, you see cutwork worked on high count, firmly woven linen. This is rather not the stuff of cutwork, but it'll still work...



For the "cord" that I'm stitching over, I'm using DMC Cebelia #10.



I began the overcasting with enthusiasm! For the overcast stitching, I'm using #30 coton a broder.



Stitching over the cord really lifts the stitches nicely. I like it so far.



The design has a kind of "double" outline around each cutwork area - that's one of the reasons I like the design so much. So, here I am, starting back on the double line... this line is the line that directly outlines the cut out area. Stitching along, stitching along... very happy. Liking the whole thing a lot... dum dee doo... having fun....

Suddenly realizing...

?

What?

I'm getting kind of tired of these head-slapping moments.

I complete forgot to the put the bars in. Ugh.

Yes, well, the monogram's looking pretty good! Maybe I'll stitch on that tonight. Who needs this cutwork stuff, anyway?!?!

Labels: cutwork, drawn thread embroidery, embroidery tips and tricks, needlework pictures, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, March 19, 2009
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Not a whole lot to show you on the whitework and drawn thread sampler, but at least I did manage a wee bit of stitching. This is the progress so far...

As a short background, my purpose in this project is to explore a variety of whitework and whitework-related techniques. I'm working on a 36 count natural colored linen. It's an even-weave linen, meaning that the warp and weft threads are approximately the same size, so that one can count horizontally or vertically approximately 36 threads in an inch. It's not the ideal ground for some whitework techniques, but it works great for drawn thread, pulled thread, and Schwalm embroidery.

Normally, whitework is worked white-on-white, but I chose a darker background fabric for the sake of the photos.

As I've been working on the sampler - which is totally random, just doing "whatever" whenever and wherever (this is probably going to be a bit of a mistake!), I keep thinking ahead to the next thing I want to do on it. I'm contemplating the difficulties of good satin stitching on this fabric. I generally like working satin stitch on a higher count fabric that isn't necessarily even-weave (though it can be). Anyway, I think I can manage it on this fabric, as long as I use a crewel needle or similar, with a sharp point. With tapestry needles that have a blunt point, it is difficult to stitch into the fabric threads, but with satin stitching, to get a smooth edge, I know I'm going to have to split fabric threads.

Looking ahead to some satin stitching, I'm trying to decide precisely what I want to satin stitch. The logical choice would be a monogram, since they are very often the subject of whitework. I want to demonstrate a technique called trailing, though, so if I select a monogram, it will probably be the best letter to demonstrate the technique of trailing. It will need to be flowy, with narrower and wider parts. I'm thinking an "S". But why would I want something embroidered with an "S" on it??! So we'll see about that!

In the meantime, this is what I've been doing on the sampler. Now, I know it's kinda weird-looking! But let me tell you how it developed before you chalk it up as too bizarre and unfitting for the rest of the sampler so far!!



See those big curls. Weird. But back to that in a bit... The last time we visited the whitework sampler, I had not yet worked the motif directly below the insanely large curly things. In that drawn thread patch, I attempted to mimic a variation that I saw in Therese Dillmont's book, Drawn Thread Work, which I reviewed a few weeks ago. I'm not satisfied with the results. I think it looks bizarre. But, it was interesting, and at least it was something to learn. The wheels in the middle (the big white dots) are made by weaving the thread around the intersections of the the coral knot threads traveling up and down from one bunch of threads to the next. In Dillmont's illustration, she doesn't have the vertical white threads working up to the wheels, but I put them in there because I didn't do the wheels as I went, while working the coral knot "waves." Those vertical lines make the whole thing look kind of strange!



Now, about these chunky curly things. They were completely spontaneous. I wanted to work a variety of drawn thread and pulled thread fillings, but I didn't want to keep working in squares. I thought about circles (and I still might do some!) but I ended up doing these scrolly things instead. They're worked in chain stitch, using a #16 coton a broder.

Inside the curlies, I withdrew some threads so that I could work some filling techniques.



And here's the first attempt. Hilariously enough (I'm not really laughing! Ok, actually, now I am!), my first filling was going to be a reverse wave stitch, which I was going to photograph upclose for tutorial. (You can see the reverse wave stitch in the crown on top of the Schwalm pomogranate.) Oh, golly! I started going, and realized I was not really doing the reverse wave stitch. I had run amuck somehow. But since it was working out (more or less), I left it.

Notice that in this particular curl, the drawn thread areas get closer together towards the top. You see, originally I was taking out two threads from the fabric and leaving three in. As I worked higher on the curl, I took out two threads and left only two in between the drawn thread areas. I thought that this would help give a "shaded" look (just an experiment!) to the curl, because the white stitches would be closer together. But once I got going, I realized it isn't the white stitches that show - it's the gaping holes. They get closer together, but it isn't that noticeable!



So, this is where I am, working out the fillings in the big fat curls. I'm planning on working some more decorative stitching outside the curls - different sized scallops or something. We'll see how that develops!

And then, once I finish these elements, I'll move on to... well, something else in the sampler. I was thinking of going straight into satin stitch at first, but the more I look at the sampler right now, the more I think I'll add some filling. But then on the other hand, if I don't break away from this drawn thread stuff soon, I fear the whole sampler will end up dedicated to drawn thread, with a bit o' Schwalm thrown in!

What think you? Any ideas for future elements of the sampler? I'm all ears!

More Drawn Thread and Whitework Embroidery

Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Re-Weaving
Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Satin Stitch
Drawn Thread - Hemstitch Tutorial
Drawn Thread - Chain Loop Bunches
Sampler Update with Schwalm Embroidery
Online Book on Drawn Thread Techniques
Diamond Stitch in Drawn Thread Work
Coral Knot Bunches in Drawn Thread Embroidery
Zig-Zags in Drawn Thread Embroidery
All Whitework Articles on Needle 'n Thread

You can find more tips and tricks for hand embroidery - including all the above tutorials - indexed on my Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery page.

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, needlework pictures, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, March 10, 2009
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Today, I'd like to show you how to make zig-zag bundles in your drawn thread work. It helps to understand basic hemstitch before moving on to zig-zags, so you might want to check out that tutorial if you're just getting started with drawn thread embroidery.

When you work zig-zags in drawn thread, you're hemstitching the top and bottom of a row of stitches that have had several horizontal (or vertical - depending on the direction you're stitching) removed.



In this little tutorial, I'm working around a box, so I've removed threads horizontally on the top and bottom rows that comprise the outside of the box (indicated by "A" in the photo above), and vertically on the sides of the box (indicated by "B" in the photo above).

I'm using satin stitch bars to secure the edges (see the arrow in the photo above). Note that they are secured around the corner, for both the vertical and horizontal removal of thread.

I'm working in groups of four threads. This technique requires an even amount of threads, so that the bundles can be divided correctly. So, if you're working with four threads, you want to count off a multiple of four for the width and height of your box.



When you work your initial hemstitching on the outside of the box edge, on the first group next to the satin stitch bars, you want to pick up only two vertical threads. Then, for the subsequent groupings, pick up four vertical threads....



... until you come to the end of the row, where you'll only have two threads leftover.



To begin the hemstitching around the inside of the box, use a waste knot to start your thread. Now, you'll be working in groups of four threads, hemstitching around the first bunch of two, and picking up two from the next bunch of four.



For the next bunch, pick up the two left in the bunch, plus the first two of the next bunch.



Work this way all the way to the corner - you can see the zig-zag pattern developing.



When you come to the corner, you'll work the wrapping stitch of the hemstitch around the last four threads (two from the bundle you're in, and the last two bundled threads). When you take your needle down after the wrap, you'll bring it up in the second bundle around the corner, so that you can now wrap the first four threads around the corner.



To complete this corner hemstitch, take your needle down into the corner to form the wrap and bring it up in the fabric to form the wrap and put your needle in position for the next hemstitch.

Work the next inside row over four threads, splitting the bundles as you did in the first row, and then proceed around the rest of the corners of the box in the same manner.



When you come to the end of your last inside row, to anchor the thread, slide it underneath the hemstitching on the inside row. Don't cross over to the outside of the box, or your thread will show behind the drawn thread areas.

And there you have zig-zags in drawn thread, around the outside of a box!

More Drawn Thread and Whitework Embroidery

Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Re-Weaving
Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Satin Stitch
Drawn Thread - Hemstitch Tutorial
Drawn Thread - Chain Loop Bunches
Sampler Update with Schwalm Embroidery
Online Book on Drawn Thread Techniques
Diamond Stitch in Drawn Thread Work
Coral Knot Bunches in Drawn Thread Embroidery

You can find more tips and tricks for hand embroidery - including all the above tutorials - indexed on my Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery page.

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, February 27, 2009
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Bunching threads together in different ways and embroidering over the threads using knots and so forth is what makes drawn thread embroidery pretty. It's the bunching of the threads that gives it a lacy look. One of the most common (and I think most attractive) ways to achieve a nice bunch of threads in drawn thread work is by using the coral knot. So here's a little photo tutorial to show you how that's done.

The coral knot in drawn thread embroidery is not that different from the coral stitch used in regular surface embroidery. Essentially, the movements of the stitch are the same. The difference is, of course, that you don't have a regular ground fabric in drawn thread work, so the line created by your working thread doesn't come out looking "couched." Instead, it looks like a thread with knots in it that hold together bunches of vertical fabric threads.

To begin, I've already finished my edges using satin stitch and withdrawn the vertical threads. I've also hemstitched the bottom of the drawn thread area over two threads. At the top of this piece, I've worked Diamond Stitch, grouping together every other four threads.



Anchoring my thread in the satin stitch bars on the side, I brought it up on the right side of the drawn thread area right where I wanted the line of coral knots to run. With the needle and thread at the front of the fabric right next to the satin stitch bars, I brought the needle down behind four vertical fabric threads (that's two groups of two hemstitched threads) and back up again, underneath my working thread and inside the loop formed by it. (The working thread is looped over, then under, the needle.)



Pull the needle and working thread through the loop, pulling the loop firmly so that the fabric threads bunch together. I find that it helps to pull the working thread forward and upward rather than simply forward on top of your fabric, in order to get the knot to situate itself in the middle of the bunch.



Moving on to the next coral knot, take the needle to the back of the next group of four threads and to the front again (in one motion - "sewing" rather than taking your hand to the back of your work!). Come up underneath the working thread again, and inside the loop.

The stitch requires you to come up from the back, then wrap your working thread up over the top of your needle, then down underneath your needle, to form this loop. It's easier, though, if you simply leave your working thread looped forward on your fabric and you pass underneath the working thread then up into the loop.

Again, pull the stitch tight by pulling forward and upwards on your working thread.



To keep the line of knots straight, you can use your needle and nudge the knots up or down on the vertical threads, so that you situate them right where you want them.



Work all the way across to the other edge of your drawn thread area, then take your thread to the back and anchor it under the satin stitch bars.



On this piece, I worked a line of coral knots at the top and bottom of the drawn thread area. As tempting as it would be to slide your working thread up under the satin stitch bars to begin the coral knots going from left to right (on the return journey at the top), don't. The knots in the lower row are moving in the same direction - if you switch the direction of your stitch (and you're still working with your right hand), the knots will look different.

For left-handers, the stitch is worked from left to right, and the looping of the working thread is the same.

That's the coral knot! Have fun with it!

More Drawn Thread and Whitework Embroidery

Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Re-Weaving
Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Satin Stitch
Drawn Thread - Hemstitch Tutorial
Drawn Thread - Chain Loop Bunches
Sampler Update with Schwalm Embroidery
Online Book on Drawn Thread Techniques
Diamond Stitch in Drawn Thread Work

You can find more tips and tricks for hand embroidery - including all the above tutorials - indexed on my Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery page.

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Sunday, February 22, 2009
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Still continuing with the whitework techniques sampler, I'm messing around a little more with drawn thread embroidery. It's kind of fun to experiment with the different stitches, and although I'm not 100% pleased with the location of this next little bit of drawn thread work, I still think it's coming out ok. Today, I want to show you how to do the diamond stitch, which can be used in pulled thread work or drawn thread work.

When used in drawn thread work, the diamond stitch serves to bunch together some of the vertical threads. This is how I'm using it in the motif I'm working on now, anyway. In pulled thread work, you would simply pull the threads together to leave little holes in the fabric. It's the same concept, but you aren't working without horizontal threads. Hmmm..... that would be better explained in photos, methinks!

But here, I'm working with drawn threads, so please allow me to demonstrate the diamond stitch with drawn thread.



First, here's the area I'm working on. It's a three-tiered section of drawn threads, and in between each section of drawn threads, I've left four horizontal threads intact. I'm still working in multiples of four here. I'm working the diamond stitch at the top of the lower section, over the area where I left four horizontal threads.



The working thread is anchored on the back, by running it under the satin stitches that secure the edge of the drawn thread area. After you've anchored your thread, you want to position your emerging point two threads up in the four thread area, and count in four vertical threads. Basically, you're stitching over four vertical threads on the half-way line in the four-thread area.



Next, take your needle down four threads to the right, along the same line, and back up through the first hole from which you emerged. Basically, you're wrapping the working thread around four vertical fabric threads along the same line. Pull the working thread through and pull firmly to tighten the stitch.



Now, take your needle down, directly under the point you just emerged, in the drawn thread area, and up again four threads later.



Then, take your needle back around the group of four threads, and emerge again to the left of the fourth thread. Here again, you're basically just wrapping your working thread around that group of four threads.



Moving straight up from the point you just emerged, following the vertical threads (so you're just above them again, in the four-thread area), take your needle down along the same line as the first stitch in the four thread area, and bring it up again four threads later. Now, you're just going to repeat the stitches.



Pull your working thread through, wrap it back around the four threads, and pull the stitch tight.



Continue working down the line in this manner, until you have completed the bottom of the diamond design.



Now, it's just a matter of reversing the direction of the stitch and returning along the line, to form the top of the diamonds. Instead of going down into the drawn thread area, you're just going up into it. The stitches in the four-thread area are all in the same holes (so that there are two stitches over the same four threads on the return journey). Pull tight whenever you're working the middle stitches, so that you get a nice little pulled effect with little holes in the middle of that four-thread area. This will increase the lacy look of the finished area.

So that's the diamond stitch. Notice that it bunches together every other group of four threads, and leaves the groups in between straight. That's ok! For the next step of this section, I'll work coral knots over the bunches and then through the middle to make a diamond pattern using the drawn threads....

I'll show you how to do that next time I visit the sampler.

Up later this week - a GIVE-AWAY! Don't miss the February give-away. I'll be including some patterns and fibers for you and little fun embellishments. I really need to go through my cabinets and straighten things out again. Whenever I organize, I come up with some pretty good stuff that makes for good stash-building. So stay tuned for that!

Also, I've got some reader's embroidery to show you, a few tutorials, a pattern, and a couple other interesting tidbits from the craft blog-o-sphere. I'm perusing a few books right now, too, so I'd like to review those for you.

Feel free to leave a comment below if you have any questions or input on this technique! Thanks!

More Drawn Thread and Whitework Embroidery

Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Re-Weaving
Drawn Thread - Securing Edges with Satin Stitch
Drawn Thread - Hemstitch Tutorial
Drawn Thread - Chain Loop Bunches
Sampler Update with Schwalm Embroidery
Online Book on Drawn Thread Techniques

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, Schwalm, whitework

Click here to read the whole post & comments.

Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, February 18, 2009
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Ok, here 'tis. This is the only needlework project I've really had going lately. It's not a high-pressure-type project, which is nice. Basically, it's just an exploratory, experimental kind of project. I'm playing with whitework techniques, and this is what I've done so far.

The techniques I plan to dabble in on this sampler include drawn thread, Schwalm, Hardanger, Ukrainian drawn thread embroidery, surface techniques (such as trailing and satin stitch and so forth), pulled thread, and whatever else happens to come to mind.

So far, it's been a fun experiment, and I've learned a lot of things along the way. Today, I'll just give you a couple shots of what I've done so far. Later on, I want to go into various motifs and show you mistakes (yes, I make mistakes!) and corrections, and other points of learning.

Here's the sampler so far:



This is the lower left-hand corner of the fabric. The area is quite dominated by an incomplete Schwalm chicken. I wasn't going to do this guy at first, but on a whim, I stuck him on there. For a chicken, compared to everything else on the sampler, he's somewhat large - but, gosh, I love this guy! He's the same motif I used on my Christmas Chicken embroidered card.



And this is the lower right-hand corner of the fabric so far. You can tell that I jump around between motifs a bit. The Schwalm work pomegranate here isn't finished - I still have to work the pinecone on the right and the little spray below it. The chicken above isn't finished, either, and in the middle of the fabric, you can see a larger blank rectangle that's marked out - and it's not finished, either!



Here's the chicken close-up. Check out those chicken legs. There are some flaws on this fellow, and some troubleshooting I had to go through when choosing threads, but we'll come back to that down the road.



And here's the crown of the pomegranate. This is perhaps my favorite thing I've worked so far on this! It was a bit challenging here and there, which was nice. Yeah, the eyelets aren't so great, and - yes! - they are on crooked. The right side is higher than the left side!

We'll go back to that later, too.



I like this little section of drawn thread, which utilizes the coral knot to bunch things together. The other day I showed you how to do what I call a chain loop to bunch threads, but the method I prefer is this coral knot.



And, here's the whole panel in perspective. See what I mean about the dominating chicken??!!

That's my progress so far - it's really one of the more relaxing projects I've ever worked on, I suppose because it isn't for anyone else, it's purely exploratory, and I can do whatever I want! Kinda fun!

Anyone else out there working on anything fun or interesting? Feel free to leave a comment below with a link to your current project! Or, if you've finished something recently and want to share it with us, you can contact me, and I'll send you my e-mail address so you can send photos!

Have a great Monday!

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, needlework pictures, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, February 16, 2009
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One of the most interesting aspects of drawn thread embroidery is the way the remaining threads are grouped together for decorative effects. There are heaps of ways to group together threads! And I'm not even sure all books agree on the names of the techniques. On one drawn thread area on my whitework techniques sampler, I worked a line of what I call chain loops. They're a kind of half chain stitch that holds the bunches together. This isn't to be confused with the coral knot used in drawn thread work, which is sometimes just called "knotting."

This is a simple way to bunch together groups of threads in drawn thread embroidery - and the result is a very basic "decoration."



Notice that there's no knot in the thread that's running through the bunches. Rather, there's just a kind of "hook" that looks a bit like a chain stitch.

This method is an ok way to bunch threads together on an item that is not utilitarian. If you're practicing bunching threads for a sampler or something that will be framed, then this is fine. If you're making a pillow or some other utilitarian item that will eventually need to be laundered, I wouldn't use this method of thread bunching, personally. Without an actual knot in the thread, I don't know that the loops will hold up and keep their proper tension.

For bunches to look good in drawn thread work, they need to be even. In the row pictured above, I began by hemstitching the top and bottom of the row, grouping together two vertical threads. Since I'm bunching up groups of 4 (each group made up of 2 vertical threads), before I started, I made sure I had enough vertical threads. I withdrew horizontal threads over a number divisible by 8. If I only wanted to work three bunches of two together, the number of vertical threads left would be divisible by 6.

I really don't like the whole counting aspect of drawn thread work, and it's true that you can hedge a bit on some of it, depending on your project, but when you're working a sampler where the stitches and bunches and so forth are all very visible, it's a good idea to count accurately.



Once the hemstitching is complete, you'll start with a new thread. Anchor the thread on the right side of your strip, so that it emerges at the half-way point on the right side. Then, take the needle under the bunch of threads you want to pull together, and take it over the working thread, just as you would do with a chain stitch in regular surface embroidery.



Pull the needle forward through the loop along with all of the working thread, pulling tightly enough to bunch together the vertical thread groups in the fabric.



Continue down the row in the same manner, until you finish the last chain loop over the last bunch. Take your thread to the back at the half-way point of the edge, and weave it under your edging to secure it.



And that's pretty much it. It's not the most decorative way of bunching threads together, but it works ok for a simple effect. I prefer (personally) using a coral knot, but for getting started, this is an easy way to get an idea of bunching threads. Don't worry - I'll show you the coral knot (or "knotting") in an upcoming article.

In the meantime, I'm still just messing around with the whitework techniques on this sampler. I've played a bit with Schwalm - just enough to make a few mistakes and learn a few useful things. I'll be sure to show you what I mean this coming week!

And phew! I'm glad it's Saturday! I'm playing catch-up this weekend, which is not always fun after a rat-race-week. I hope you're able to get some stitching in and that you enjoy the weekend!

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, embroidery tips and tricks, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, February 14, 2009
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I suppose there are a few things I should clarify about the whitework technique embroidery sampler that I've been messing around with! First, though - thanks very much for your responses to my question about fabric.

Many of you could see the decision coming, methinks: I did change the fabric to the darker linen. The deciding factor was the question of photography. I get better pictures on darker fabric, especially when the stitches need to be seen.



You can see that the contrast makes the stitches a lot clearer. In choosing between the two fabrics, I was choosing between this fabric (the darker shade) and a shade lighter than this, but not white. The original fabric I started working on was almost a golden color, but, in close ups and with any kind flash or bright lighting, the fabric tended to wash out, so the stitches were not as noticeable.

I also decreased the size of the whole piece. I think it's 16" x 18" now, which is much easier to work on.

Now, to explain the whole sampler. I'm afraid the term "whitework" only refers to technique. I realize it is not properly "whitework," since it is not done on a white ground fabric (which is usually the case with real "whitework"). The point of the samper for me is to explore different types of whitework techniques, demonstrating "how to" and troubleshooting and whatnot as I go. In the process, I'll work up a few photo tutorials of different techniques for you, like the one on re-weaving the edges in drawn thread work and the one on finishing the edges with satin stitch.

The finished piece isn't meant to "be" anything, other than a sampler. I'm not trying to create a gorgeous work of art or anything, although I do hope it comes out fairly nice! I have no idea what it will look like yet, when finished, but I have blocked out a drawn thread section and a small Ukranian sample, and I've transferred a Schwalm design on the fabric, using Christine Bishop's book, Schwalm Whitework Embroidery (the link will take you to my review of the book).

Besides this sampler, which isn't meant to be my sole occupation for the next however long it takes, I've got plans for other embroidery, too - so don't worry, I won't bore you to death with whitework (I hope!).

In the embroidery arena, I've got some interesting things coming up! I'm eagerly waiting some sample projects that I'll be working on, from some well-known designers. I don't want to whisper anything too loudly right now, but just so you know, in the near future, there are some exciting projects coming out for embroiderers, with the possibility of some new kits becoming available ... and, well. Just a hint: think long and short stitch shading and flowers, and you may just guess who I'm talking about!

And, with my present creepy, crawly, cruddy cold dissipating, my voice is getting somewhat back to normal, so there's a good chance I'll be able to add sound to some videos this week. (Keep your fingers crossed for me!) I just can't do the frog voice on something that is more or less public and permanent!

Coming up, I've got a little photo tutorial on transferring a design using tissue paper (very easy, though somewhat time-consuming). Along with that, look for a photo tutorial on simple hemstitch and a beautiful piece of embroidery from a reader. Also, some thread tips, thanks to Pam and Inspirations, are in this week's line up.

A busy week ahead, but I hope you all enjoyed the weekend, got some stitching done (I managed a wee bit!) and are looking forward to a good week!

Labels: fabric for embroidery, linen, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, website news, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Sunday, February 08, 2009
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I'm not exactly sure if this really a Christmas card. It was supposed to be! I'm supposed to be embroidering baby booties, Christmas cards, and a Christmas ornament right now. But I already demonstrated (much to my embarrassment, in retrospect) how easily distracted I can get when it comes to needlework! Whatever the case, though (whether a Christmas card, or just a card), I finished embroidering the chicken.

Inspired by Christine Bishop's book, Schwalm Whitework Embroidery, I adapted her little chicken design to a card. After drawing out the pattern and dotting it up for piercing, I transferred the pattern to a red piece of 5" x 5" textured cardstock and started stitching with #80 DMC white cordonette. For different parts of the design, I switched to #60, and I think at one point, I even used #50, but I can't remember where! (Tsk, tsk - another tribute to my present state of disorganization!)



I haven't mounted the piece on a white card yet, but that's my plan. As luck would have it, I have just about every color of cardstock except white. I contemplated using cream, but it kills it. So I'll have to pick up some white next time out.

The eyelets around the edge are a funny story. Originally, I was just planning on having larger open circles there, as seen on the card before it was embroidered. My idea was that the white from behind would show through and make the dots white. They would. But I held the card up to blank paper, and it still didn't look quite as I had pictured it. So I decided to outline each eyelet with little stitches.

The funny thing is, I hadn't pierced the cardstock for those stitches. I contemplated going back to the drawing board (piercing foam) and carefully pricking in a few hundred little holes... but then I opted for the lazy approach, and just used my needle, pricking and stitching at the same time.

Taking that approach didn't cause any trouble - it was rather easy, actually - but I did notice that it slightly dents in the card, more so when pricked before stitching. Still, in the finished scheme of things, it didn't make any noticeable difference.



Overall, I like the little fellow a lot. But, this is the thing: it took quite a few hours of stitching to finish this little 5 x 5 piece of paper. And in the long run, though I do like the idea of time and effort going into handmade cards, I'm not sure if 6 hours a card is a feasible idea.

That being said, I've got a couple other Schwalmish schemes bouncing around in my head. I'll let you know if they come to fruition.

Resources for Embroidery on Paper and Card Making

I also have a stack of cards and cut-outs already pierced for stitching. I've been using Erica Fortgens book, Merry Christmas Embroidery on Paper, for some designs, and I really like it. I like the fact that, on many of the patterns, you can take just one little element and situate it in the corner of a card or gift tag, or in the middle of a miniature card. If you're not familiar with any of Erica's books, you might want to check them out.

Another good resource for patterns for embroidered cards is Stitching Cards, where you can purchase patterns and download them right away in PDF format. If you haven't discovered their blog yet - Prick and Stitch is My Craft - you might want to take a look at it, too. They have some freebies on there, like this 3D Christmas Tree card, and heaps of excellent tips for embroidering on paper.

And then, of course, there's your own imagination. You know, if you can embroider it on fabric, you can probably embroider it on paper, too. It might be fun to take your embroidery niche and see if you can transfer the look onto paper! True, there might be some limits. I wouldn't necessarily do goldwork on paper, for example.

And drawn thread patterns might not work exactly the same way, but I bet you can mimic the look! Hmmm.... sounds like the beginnings of another distraction...

Whatever the case, as the holidays approach, if you're a card-giver, you might consider going handmade this year with embroidered greeting cards. They take more time, that's true. But somehow, I think they deliver a more personal message than any Hallmark card could deliver. You really DID care to send the very best, so you made it yourself!

If you know of any sources for paper embroidery, will you share them?

Enjoy the weekend!

Labels: Schwalm

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, October 03, 2008
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Yesterday afternoon, I headed out to the the little studio at the back of the house with the best intentions in the world. I was going to devote some quality time to "real" work - I had some paperwork to take care of - and then, once I felt I had accomplished a reasonable amount of work, I was going to do some more work setting up Christmas cards. It was a perfectly feasible - even admirable - plan for my late afternoon hours...

There I sat, inspecting the pile of paperwork before me, when suddenly, my eye was arrested by Christine Bishop's Schwalm Whitework Embroidery.

I contemplated the book. I contemplated the pile of papers.

The book.

The papers.

The boooooooooooooooooooooook.

Literally, it was calling to me. I'm sure I heard it. What can one do?

The next thing I knew, I was engrossed in a Chicken. (She's got a cute chicken in there.)

Now, I didn't stray so much from my Plan of the Day as to completely forget the cards I was supposed to be preparing. I thought to myself, "A Card. I could maybe make a Schwalmish Christmas Chicken card. I mean, everyone's heard of the Christmas Chicken, haven't they?"

And so I tinkered, and this is what I came up with:



I drew the design out on graph paper first. I wasn't as precise as I should have been. Some intersections were off, and I didn't space the dots as carefully as they needed to be on the longer stretches of stitch. You'll see what I mean....

I placed a piece of tracing paper over the picture I had drawn on the graph paper, and used different colored ink (pink and purple - though you can't tell in the photo) to trace the picture in dots, where I would pierce the pattern.

Then I put the tracing paper over the cardstock - I'm using a textured red, with a red core (not white core card stock) - and pierced the design.



The large dots around the edge in the blurry photo above are eyelets, actually. The card will be backed with a white card, and the chicken's eye, the eyelets around the edge, and the eyelets on the wing and tail (which you can't see yet, because they aren't punched) will show the white background. That's the plan, anyway.

Once I got to that point in my Christmas chicken adventure, I decided I better do what I planned to do, or I'd be in trouble later.

So I readdressed that stack of papers.

But then it occurred to me that I wasn't sure what thread I would stitch that Christmas Chicken with. So I decided I better rummage through thread while it was still sunny outside. (Well, you know the old superstition, that thread rummaging should never be done after sunset?)

And I came upon a #80 DMC cordonette - small stuff, for cordonette.

I finished my thread rummaging right before sunset. But of course, you know I wouldn't start stitching until I had taken care of my paperwork! No, no. I just had to line up my resources, so when I could be irresponsible, everything would be ready.

Ok. So that's what I did yesterday before the sun went down.

And shortly after the sun went down, I did this:



There are a few blurby spots I need to take care of. I think, if I ever do this again, I'll change my approach on some of the pricking dots. It was a learning experience. Gosh, I just feel So Accomplished and So Responsible for making certain I had a learning experience yesterday.......

Tonight, I'm bonding with papers. And please don't try to talk me out of it!

Labels: Christmas, embroider on paper, hand embroidered cards, needlework pictures, pictures, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, October 02, 2008
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I'm not sure what it is about me and whitework lately, but here I am, back on another whitework subject! I received a really nice book this past week, and I wanted to tell you about it.

The book is called Schwalm Embroidery Techniques and Designs, by Christine Bishop. Even if Schwalm embroidery doesn't seem to be your thing, I discovered a couple good aspects of the book that would make it useful for those who enjoy other surface embroidery techniques.

But first, a little information on Schwalm embroidery. It's a whitework technique hailing from the Schwalm region of Germany (think Hansel and Gretel and other fairytales...). The characteristics of Schwalm embroidery are basically bold outlines and delicate fillings. Schwalm whitework creates a lacy look, but it isn't properly lace. Some stock shapes are typical to Schwalm embroidery - hearts, tulips, birds, leaves, etc. - but the technique is not limited to just these shapes. The shapes are outlined with a bolder line, made up of coral stitch and chain stitch, and then they are filled. The filling is the thing that amazes me - the range of filling designs is limited only by the stitcher's imagination, really. The fillings are executed on the fabric with threads drawn out, to lighten the look of them, or to enhance the pattern.

As far as materials go, Schwalm whitework is worked on high-count linen (32 count and higher, generally, with 50+ count being standard and even preferred for intricate designs). The thread employed is coton a broder, something I've been mentioning a lot lately. This is a non-divisible 4-ply mercerized cotton that comes in sizes 12 (large) to 40 (small). Actually, here in the States, it's easier to find 16 through 40 - sizes 16 through 35 are produced by DMC, and Anchor seems to be the only available size 40. You can find coton a broder in the US through specialty shops - I usually order mine through Lacis.



If you want to see what Schwalm whitework looks like and read a little more about it, check out the Essay on Schwalm Embroidery at Heritage Shoppe. There are two really pretty pictures there.

Many of the websites devoted to Schwalm embroidery are in German, and even if you don't read German, it's still worthwhile to check them out. For example, the site of Margarete Grandjot, Stick-Atelier, has an excellent gallery on it, where you can see some beautiful examples of Schwalm embroidery. Scroll down to about the middle of the page, and you'll see a fantastic circular linen (it's really shaped like a doughnut, with a hole in the middle!). There are close-up photos underneath the main picture, showing the different motifs around the piece. There, you'll get a good sense of the variety of fillings used in Schwalm embroidery.



Another website on the topic of Schwalm embroidery is Hessenstickerei, the site of Renate Fernau. Unfortunately, the site is still under construction, and the last evident date on it was 2005, BUT - on the German version of the website, it has a decent gallery, though the photos don't enlarge very large! The thing I like in particular about this website is that, on the English version, under catalog, you will find a section on patterns for Schwalm embroidery. You can get a good sense of the "look" of Schwalm patterns here.

One thing you'll notice about Schwalm embroidery is that it looks rather "folk-ish," and there's a reason for that. Schwalm developed among the peasants of Germany, as a decorative embroidery for the "average" person, rather than for the wealthy. The "wealthy" counterpart of Schwalm whitework could perhaps be considered Dresden whitework, which looks more like lace and was worked by professional houses to supply the stuff to those who could afford it. Dresden whitework reached its zenith of production and popularity in the mid-1700's. Strangely enough, it was worked on muslin (very, very fine muslin, imported from India). Schwalm was generally worked on linen by the peasants, for their own personal decoration - household linens, clothing, etc. It's quite a bit "rougher" than Dresden work.

Funny how things turn around - linen is a much dearer fabric today than muslin or cotton! Of course, you have to consider the sheer fine-ness of the muslin then, and that it was woven by hand. An interesting story is told in a pamphlet published by Lacis on their whitework museum (PDF): "The story is told that when a Nawab reproved his daughter for allowing her skin to be seen through her clothes, she demonstrated that she was wearing no less than eleven thicknesses of such material." So - very fine stuff! If you haven't read that pamphlet (linked to above) and you're interested in whitework, you might give it a look - you'll find heaps of photos of different types of whitework and lace.

Now - I've strayed from the point - back to Schwalm and the book at hand.



Schwalm Embroidery by Christine Bishop is a great introduction to the techniques of Schwalm whitework. It's perfectly suited to a beginner, with techniques and designs of varying degrees of difficulty throughout the book.



I particularly like the sampler that's presented in the book. Samplers such as this one are great for those interested in trying out the various techniques within a particular type of embroidery before launching into a major project involving those techniques.



You'll also find some really nice project ideas in the book. See the needlelace on the edge of the cushion? The author goes into detail on creating that edge, and the instructions are clear and accessible for the beginner.



Notice that the projects in the book are not all executed on white linen. I really like the look of the white on the natural linen, as in the sampler above. While I was out shopping yesterday, I went to Two the Point, a little needlework shop in Kansas City (where I bought some goodies I'll tell you about later!). While I was there, I picked up a remnant of a high count natural linen that would be perfect for such a sampler. I've tucked it away, though - too many other projects coming up - but I plan to go back to it, with this book in hand, before the year's out. We'll see!!

Finally, as last point on Schwalm embroidery - I like the fact that it involves various techniques that carry over into other styles of embroidery: pulled thread, drawn thread, satin stitching, a variety of surface stitches - all are used in Schwalm embroidery. So if you play around with Schwalm embroidery, you'll pick up skills useful in other types of embroidery, too. And this book by Christine Bishop will help you learn those skills!

The book is part of the Milner Craft Series, and is available through Amazon for $14.00 new.

Labels: beginner embroidery, book review, pictures, regional embroidery techniques, Schwalm, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Sunday, August 24, 2008
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