Sunday, November 25, 2007

Another Beetle Wing Embroidery Update

Here's an update on my beetle wing and goldwork embroidery sample. In the photos here, I've started embellishing a bit. The more I look at it, the more it does look like a peacock on stick!

The tops of the "petals" of the main goldwork flower needed something. Digging through my scraps and such, I found a small bag of little spangles (or paillettes). I put these above the petals that don't have the scrolly pattern at the top.

Beetle Wing and Goldwork Embroidery


I took these photos outside, hoping that the color would be a little more "true to life." I still can't capture the look of the wings with the camera!

Paillettes (spangles) are often sewing onto a goldwork project using purl or another type of "bead" to hold down the spangle. If you use something in the center, like a bead, you don't have to couch the spangle from both sides. You'll see this up close in photos below. Close up, you do see the yellow thread holding down each side of the spangle, but from far away, it really isn't that noticeable.

You'll also often see spangles overlapping in a line, sewn down by purl worked in what almost looks like a stem stitch. This is called S-ing. I would have liked to overlap the spangles, but I had a limited supply. I counted them out and laid them on the piece, determining exactly how many I would need so I would be certain to have enough. I had two left over!

Beetle Wing and Goldwork Embroidery


Here they are, up close. Just like you do when working with metal threads, you wax your thread when you attach spangles. I reeeallly wanted to overlap the spangles here and sew them down with S-sing. But oh well! Pacman, anyone?

Beetle Wing and Goldwork Embroidery


Here, you can see the spangles decorating the smaller flower. I'll get back to this one below...

Beetle Wing and Goldwork Embroidery


Just to show you the way the light plays on the wings - here, they ALL look blue!

Beetle Wing and Goldwork Embroidery


And from this side, the beetle wings look blue, too! The spangles, by the way, really gleam in the light. They are lovely with goldwork!

Beetle Wing and Goldwork Embroidery


Here's the whole thing from above - I think you can get a better idea of the blue and green hues in the alternating petals on the flower. Well, at least a little bit, anyway!

Beetle Wing and Goldwork Embroidery


Back to this fellow, up-close. There are two things in this flower that are different (and unfinished!) First, around the two side beetle wings, I've worked some S-ing in purls, alternating smooth and rough purl. S-ing looks a lot like stem stitch. The difference is, you work from the top of the line, laying your first purl the length of the stitch. Then you come up into your fabric, half a stitch-length below the end of the first purl. Thread the next purl on your needle, and take your needle down at the half-way point of the previous purl, taking your needle underneath the first purl, on the stitch line. Pull through, firmly but not too firmly, so that the first purl curves. Mary Brown, in her book "Goldwork Embroidery Designs and Projects" gives an excellent instruction on S-ing. In fact, if you're at all interested in goldwork, I've found that this really is, so far, the best book on the subject (in my opinion). I have many books on goldwork - this is comprehensive!

Ok, back to that flower - you can see where my S-ing is far from perfect. Some of the purls cracked. This can happen when they are cut too long for the stitch you're taking. You can avoid it by cutting your purls with more care! The other cause of the cracking (and this is the case here) is poking them with your needle while you're stitching!! I was using a very long, thin beading needle (Mary Arden, #13), which I was unused to weilding. It went everywhere - mostly in the places I didn't want it to go. I needed the smallest needle I had on hand, because I was using a rather small purl. A #12 sharp wouldn't fit through the rough purl. I'm not sure what size purl it was, because I stupidly didn't label the bag when I put away the scraps last time! Good lesson!

The other (unfinished) thing going on in this flower is some seeding with real gold Jap, size #1. It's stitchable or couchable, very fine stuff. I cut small lengths and started trying it as a seeding stitch. It works "ok" although the more you work it through the fabric, the more you risk losing the gold off the core thread. Also, it's probably not the best choice of stitch and thread on velveteen - the stitches tend to get lost in the pile. So I had work pretty carefully with it. I wanted something to add a bit of fill on the two side petals, without being at all bulky. I just wanted it to barely show, like a dusting of gold. So it's working for that, but it takes a long time. It's like having a shimmery layer of gold dust in there - a little sparkly, but not too much, with plenty of the red still showing.

Still a bit more to go on embellishing this, so I'm off to thread my needle again!

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Friday, November 23, 2007

Goldwork Embroidery Outline Complete, Wings Attached

I was able to finish up the basic outline of the beetlewing embroidery project and attach the wings, so I thought I'd share some photos!

I still have some work to do on my goldwork and beetle wing project, but in these photos, you can see that all the major embroidery is done - it's now just a matter of embellishing it a bit further and putting on the finishing touches.

Goldwork Embroidery and Beetle Wings


This is the main part of the design - the big flower. I outlined the petals in #5 gold passing thread, alternated with Elizabethan twist. (The petals with the little scroll tips are done in the twist.) Passing thread is a bit stiffer, I think, than the twist, but it's also finer. Gold passing is couched onto the ground fabric. It makes a wonderful filler. For example, you can take a look at it around the edge of my Agnus Dei project from last spring. Normally, passing thread is worked two at a time, couching perpendicular to the gold thread over two strands.

The wings are actually slightly different colors. I had the blue hues separated from the yellow / green (keep in mind the wings overall are green, but some reflect blue or yellow or copper more than others). So I alternated the colors every other petal as well. I'll try to get a clearer picture of that eventually! Perhaps taking the pictures outside on a sunny day will help.

Goldwork Embroidery and Beetle Wings


This is the little paisley leaf on the left of the design. I split the beetle wing in half and trimmed one half smaller, to get them to fit in the base of the paisley leaf. I'll put something between the two wings up the middle of the paisley.

Goldwork Embroidery and Beetle Wings


This is the smaller flower on the right. The petals are outlined in #5 passing and in Elizabethan twist as well, just as on the larger flower. On this smaller flower, I put the wings at the base of the petals. I figured, since it's more of a bud than a full-fledged flower, I wanted it to look slightly different. I used half wings on the outside petals, and on the inside petal, I trimmed the middle wing to have more of a point. I'm also going to add some filler or something to the petals on the "bud."

Goldwork Embroidery and Beetle Wings


And here's the whole design so far! Overall, I do like it. I've had fun working with the gold! In fact, given the hectic holiday yesterday and company this morning, I haven't had a chance to get back to it lately - soooo... I hope you enjoy your Friday evening! As for me, I'm going to go thread my needle!

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Wednesday, November 21, 2007

The Goldwork Embroidery Part Begins...

Here's the next stage of my goldwork and beetle wing embroidery practice - sewing some of the gold on! This is fun stuff! I'll show you some photos here, and explain the types of gold I'm working with, as well as the particular techniques. I'll also point out a few flaws, so you can avoid them if you take up goldwork!

After selecting which metal "threads" I would use on the project and jotting them down on my pattern, the real fun began!

I started with the main stem of the design, and worked it in Elizabethan twist. This is three strands of gold, twisted together to make a nice, sparkling twisted "wire" (only it isn't as stiff as wire). With twist, you couch it on, and normally, you slightly untwist the twist when you couch, and pass your couching thread between the twists so you can't see it. Then, of course, you let them twist back together again. Elizabethan twist is the smallest of the twists - it's pretty fine - and I can't for the life of me get my couching thread to disappear between the twists without distorting them - I think I may have to find a finer silk!

Beginning the Goldwork on the Beetle Wing Project


I worked up the stem, around the triangle at the base of the flower, and back down the stem with the Elizabethan twist. To couch goldwork, you use yellow or gold-colored thread (I use silk), which you run through a cake of beeswax. I run the thread through about three times, and then pass it through my fingers a couple of times to smooth the wax on. The beeswax gives strength to the couching thread. Working with the twist, you should couch in the direction of the twists, so that you see as little of the couching as possible.

Beginning the Goldwork on the Beetle Wing Project


The triangle at the top of the stem is filled with what is called "chip work." This is usually done over felt padding (yellow felt, if you're working with gold). The metal here is called "check purl." It's a hollow, faceted, tube-like coil of very fine gold wire. You cut little pieces from it and sew them down like beads. Chip work can be packed very closely together (and the felt helps this process), or it can be randomly scattered over the ground fabric. This is kind of a cross between the two. The chips are worked directly on the ground fabric, and they are "tight," but not super tight.

Beginning the Goldwork on the Beetle Wing Project


On the little stem, the chip work is even looser - but I have since gone back and filled in a little bit! You can see on the top left side of the photo above where my couching thread does not match the twist of the Elizabethan twist. It's important to keep the couching thread even with the way the twists twist on this type of twist - since it's difficult to hide the thread, you want it to at least "blend in." If it's going against the grain of the twist, it won't blend in very well!

Beginning the Goldwork on the Beetle Wing Project


For the outline of the paisley-looking petal on the left side of the design, I used what is called "pearl purl." Unlike the hollow wire of the check purl, the pearl purl is a thicker, nobbier spring. You couch it on using waxed thread, scooting the couching thread between the little "pearls" on the coiled wire. I like this stuff! It works wonderfully around curves and makes a nice decorative line. It looks very rich! It's also much stiffer than most of the other metals (with the exception, I'd say, of the flat, ribbon-like metal called "plate"). Pearl purl also takes corners really well. You can pinch it into a nice square at the joints of the "pearls."

After outlining the left leaf thingy, I cut lengths of smooth and rough purl. Like the check purl, these are hollow coils of very fine gold. In a long strand, they are limp and snake-like - really neat stuff! You cut it and sew it on like beads, the thread passing through the hollow core. I wanted a decorative edge around the leaf, so I took a shorter stitch length than the length of the purl, so that it looped out. Then I couched the middle of the loop, "splitting" the purl and making what looks like little zig-zag triangles around the edge of the top edge of the leaf. I alternated between smooth (very shiny) and rough (matte) purl, so that the light would play differently on the different golds.

Beginning the Goldwork on the Beetle Wing Project


This is that whole shape from afar. You can see how the shiny purls gleam while the matte (or rough) purls do not. Notice that you can see a wee bit of the paint line under the pearl purl outline. That is less noticeable with the purl zig-zag finished and the pearl purl outline tweaked a bit.

That's it! The beginning of the fun part of the project!! I'm off again to thread my needle!




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Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery

 
I'm not sure if you like the step-by-step on these types of embroidery projects! It just occurred to me as I started writing this that, since goldwork and beetle wings are rather specific, this could bore people to death! I'm going to take a chance, though, since I've got this little practice project on my plate. So this is the next step in my goldwork and beetle wing project - preparing the beetle wings for embroidery.

Goldwork usually photographs ok, but the beetle wings actually don't. I can't seem to get across the beauty of these little things in a photograph! Keep in mind that they aren't predominantly black, as they look in some of these photos - they are a bright jewel green - like an emerald - with all kinds of hues reflecting in them (blues, purples, yellows, coppers). They really are lovely, even if they seem rather flat in the photos!

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery


Thanks to Michael Cook of Wormspit, I knew in advance how to prepare the wings and didn't have to go through much of a trial and error process. Before trimming the wings up, they need to be steamed for 5 minutes, in order to soften them just a bit for cutting. I started with just a few, since I figured if I had too many, they'd dry out again anyway before I could get to them all. I put a tiny bit of water in the bottom of a regular pot, put in a metal steaming basket (from which I removed the center ring), and inside this, I put a coffee filter, since I didn't want to have to pick the wings off the steaming basket. With the filter, I could just lift the paper right out.

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery


While the wings were steaming, I laid out all my tools: goldwork scissors, paper piercing tool, regular embroidery scissors, fingernail clippers, tweezers, and stiletto. I wasn't exactly sure what I would need here, although Michael had mentioned that he had better luck with the clippers at first, so that's one tool I knew I'd need. I thought I'd use the paper piercing tool to pierce the holes in the wings, and then, if I needed to, the stiletto to enlarge them.

The first thing I did was use the fingernail clippers to clip around the top, rounded part of the wings, which are thicker and curved. Once the tougher edges were off, I found that my goldwork scissors worked fine, trimming the wings into more regular shapes (for this pattern, petal shapes and half-petals).

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery


Guess what? The paper piercing tool didn't work for very long! Those wings are tough, and they have a grip! The tool stuck in them, and eventually, even though I was being very gentle, the tip came off the tool.

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery


The stiletto (which is actually my laying tool - it's stainless steel with a very sharp point) didn't work, either, because the taper at the point goes from tiny to too large too quickly! The holes ended up too big. So, luckily, I have a tambour needle handle and a pack of eyeless needles which I found worked just great for piercing the wings.

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery


I trimmed the wings to petal shapes, working with wings approximately the same size so that the petals came out relatively even.

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery


And this is the left-over beetlewing "carnage." You can get a better sense of the colors in this picture, although, relatively speaking, they still look rather "flat"!

Goldwork Supplies


Once I finished preparing the beetle wings, I went into my storage closet and dug out my goldwork supplies. I found that I had a good bit of metal "scraps" for this - purl, pearl purl, check purl, passing threads, twist, about three inches of milliary wire, and even some spangles. I doubt I'll work every type of gold into the piece, but I'm set for a good variety, anyway!

And now for the fun part! I'm off to thread my needle!

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Monday, November 19, 2007

Transferring a Hand Embroidery Design: Prick & Pounce

 
This past week, I began a practice embroidery project featuring goldwork and beetlewings. I began the project last week, and I thought the design transferring process might be interesting or helpful to you, so I took pictures. Here's a "how to" on transferring a hand-embroidery design onto the fabric, using the prick and pounce method.

Prick and pounce is an old, old method for transferring embroidery designs. It's not really necessary (of even ideal) for transferring every kind of embroidery, but it's great on certain types of fabric - though even then, there are alternatives!

But I like using the prick and pounce method, as it is accurate and it gives you a chance to make corrections before your embroidery design is set in stone (or at least paint).

So, here's what I did to transfer this goldwork and beetle wing design onto red cotton velveteen.

After finalizing my pattern, I traced it onto tracing paper. I didn't do a great job tracing it, but I figured I could make corrections as I went. Then, I got out the tools I use to prepare the paper: a paper piercing tool and a foam pad (also for paper piercing).



Both of these tools are really handy! You can find both of them at Nordic Needle. Alternately, you can use a couple layers of craft felt and a needle with the eye-end stuck in a cork. The tool is nice, though - easier on the hands! The method for piercing the paper is simple: just pierce all around the design, in close increments (about 1/8" apart). Make sure you don't miss any lines in your pattern (like I did!) by holding it up to a sunny window or a light to check it.



Once you've pierced the pattern all over, you pin it or tape it to your fabric, which is already framed up and ready to go. I admit - I use scotch tape. I just find it easier than pinning the pattern on the fabric, and, if you go gently, you don't have to worry about the pattern moving about.



Then I lay down a paper towel and carefully open up my pounce container and get out my pouncer. I never open that stuff until the design is pricked and ready to go! It's dusty, and, if spilled, not only would it be wasted, but it would be a jolly mess to clean up. White pounce is made out of ground cuttlefish bone (like the cuttlefish things you hang in a bird cage!) Dark grey powder is cuttlefish bone and charcoal mixed. I think you could make your own pounce out of a cuttlefish bone from the pet store, but I have tried it out of regular ground chalk, but it doesn't work well, as it doesn't grind to that nice, soft dustiness. You can purchase pounce and the pouncer from Lacis. But you can make your own, and instead of the pouncer, you can just roll up a small strip of craft felt and use it.



Gently pounce all over your design, using the powder rather liberally, although it really doesn't take that much. It seems like you're using a lot, but I've had this stuff for years, and have hardly made a dent in it! Pounce gently over each line in your design. With the pouncer, the nice thing is that the weight of it (it's light, but not as light as a piece of felt!) will do just the right pouncing for you. Hold it right above your pattern, close, and sort of drop it on. And that's all there is to it. After you've pounced your first area of the design (preferably near a corner), gently lift the corner and look underneath the paper to make sure the design is transferring. But don't move the whole pattern! Just lift and peek! When you're finished, your project will look like the photo above.



Then you gently lift the paper off - and there's your pattern! Notice that I missed pricking one of the lines in the large flower (the right side of the fourth petal on the left). I will fill that in during the next step.



The next step requires a fine-tipped paintbrush (I use a small liner) and watercolor paint. I used yellow for this. Connect all your pounce dots with the watercolor, using a light hand and keeping the line as fine as possible! The paint will actually have to be rather wet, so use water to dilute it. Velveteen seems to absorb more than linen does, so I had to get used to that and work on getting the right consistency. Draw the brush lightly over the fabric, barely touching it. You will find that the pounce gums up the brush a bit, so rinse your brush often.



This is the fabric with the design painted, and with the pounce still on it.



And here's a close up of the painted lines and the pounce.

After you finishing painting in your lines, pick up your project and, holding it in one hand, click it on the back with your fingers, like you're flicking something. Do this until the pounce is gone.



And here's the design with the pounce flicked off. If any remains (you can see some white still in the design, sort of stuck to the paint), take a soft brush and gently brush it away. Now I don't have to worry about smudging my lines or my pattern fading off over time, or anything like that.

And that's how you transfer an embroidery design using the prick and pounce method!It actually took me only about half an hour to do this - but the design is relatively small, and my fabric was already framed up. What think you? Worth the trouble?

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Sunday, November 18, 2007

Great Site for Embroidery Inspiration!

 
If you like to browse sites with great photos of embroidered work - especially if you're interested in historical embroidery - then you'll probably love the Victoria & Albert Museum!

The Victoria & Albert Museum has a marvelous textile collection - perhaps the best in the world. Search the collections at the V&A, typing in "embroidered" for a keyword search, and you will find page after page of magnificent images of historical embroidery.

Victoria and Albert Museum Collection Search


You can then click on the thumbnails of the embroidery you'd like to see up close. At that point, you'll get all the "vital statistics" on the piece - what it's made out of, where it was worked, who embroidered it, what it was used for, and so forth - as well as some interesting little tidbits. For example, I clicked on a fantastic piece of beetle-wing embroidery, and was treated to this image, only larger:

Victoria and Albert Museum Collection - Beetle Wing Embroidery


... along with some historical information about beetle-wing embroidery:
Dress fabrics embroidered with pieces of beetles' wing-cases, often cut into leaf shapes, were popular with Western women (those based in India and in Europe) from the mid-19th to early 20th century. The iridescent pieces of beetle-wing gave a lustre and sparkle to evening dresses that emulated applied gemstones. The pieces of beetle-wing were attached by piercing them with a needle and sewing them directly onto the ground fabric, in this case black net, but often fine cotton muslin. Because of their extreme fragility, they were usually used only around the edges of garments (hems, necks and sleeves) to minimise crushing. (Taken from the V&A Museum Website.)

Since I'm right in the middle of a beetle wing & goldwork embroidery piece, I was thrilled to be able to take a look at this!

You can do all kinds of keyword searches through the link above, so if you're wanting to browse about for some inspiration, or you just want to glory in some gorgeous art, visit the V&A today!

Thanks, Margaret, for the link!

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Friday, November 16, 2007

Beetle Wing Embroidery Project Underway

 
I finally took the plunge and started to put together a practice embroidery project that will include beetle wings and goldwork. I'm pretty excited about it, so I thought I'd show you the beginning of the project in photos.

I'm afraid you won't see any goldwork or other embroidery actually worked yet! Instead, I'll just chronicle how I'm starting out, and then I'll give you updates as I go.

Beetle Wing Embroidery Project


I started by considering the type of fabric I wanted to work on. I have an upcoming project that I was considering working on velvet or cotton velveteen, so I thought this would make a good opportunity to practice a bit working on velveteen, just to get comfortable with it. It's not the most luxurious fabric - I'd rather be working on silk velvet, and perhaps for something grander, I will. But in the meantime, I didn't want to buy stuff I didn't have on hand or make an investment in fabric for a practice piece.

The design was conceived on a paper towel while I was sitting at the kitchen table drinking tea and doodling. I liked the paper towel scrawls, so I snatched a piece of paper and the bag of wings, and I laid out the wings in the general pattern so that I could see what size the pattern should be overall. Then I just sketched around them with a pencil, and, when I got to where I liked it ok, I drew over it with a black pen.

Beetle Wing Embroidery Project


My next step was to pick out three wings that were relatively consistent in color and size. They look good on the red velvet! (At least, I think they do!)

Then I framed up my fabric.

Beetle Wing Embroidery Project


I tacked the fabric to 8" x 10" stretcher bar frames. I do love those frames! They are a quick way to frame up a project squarely and securely.

Beetle Wing Embroidery Project


You can see here the back of the project. I'm probably going to grumble a bit over the raw edges, which will surely shed little bits of red all over the place. I could take care of that and brush the edges with fray check to prevent future frustration!

Notice that the back of the project looks white - that's because I've lined the velveteen with muslin to provide support for the goldwork. I'm not planning on a lot of goldwork, but I do like a double layer when working with metal threads.

The pattern will include a couple kinds of gold, beetle wings, and some beads, though I haven't figured what kind of beads yet. I was thinking something like pearls would look nice and rich, but I may find some darker specialty beads that will go along with the wings. We'll see.

I don't plan on this project taking very long - but my hobby plans and the rest of my life do not always coincide, especially with Thanksgiving right around the corner.

Any suggestions for beads?

I'll keep you posted on progress!

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Sunday, October 07, 2007

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment!

 
Who would ever think to embellish embroidery with bugs' wings? When I mentioned beetle wings and goldwork previously, I had not seen the wings up close in person. What a surprise! Photographs don't do them justice!

Wings from the Asian "green jewel" beetle (Sternocera aequistignata) have been used to embellish textiles in Asia for centuries. In the Victorian era, it became fashionable in the western world to add these glorious little wings to elaborate clothing and accessories. The wings are still used today to embellish textiles and to make jewelry and other decorative items. But really, who woulda thunk it? When I think "beetle," it doesn't really generate the most pleasant thoughts.

All that has changed - I look at beetles in a different light now!

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment


A camera cannot catch the scintillating depth of colors in these wings. Predominantly, the wings are green, but some carry as well a copper, gold, or yellow tone, and others a deep blue-ish tone. The light plays on the wings to reflect almost "layers" of colors. They remind me of two-dimensional emeralds - you don't get the depth in a glassy way like you do with a jewel, but, because of the reflection when you move the wings around, the colors are deep and changing.

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment


I've tried to photograph the wings from different angles, in different light, to see if I could give a good enough impression of their varying color.

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment


The copper-colored area on the foremost wing in the photo above isn't always that dominant! It's the angle! These are the same group of wings as in the photos above.

The wings are about the same consistency of a very strong fingernail. They don't seem to break easily, but I'm sure, with a good pressure on the top, they would.

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment


If you happen to drop your camera on top of them - the break! The camera slipped out of my hand and landed on the whole pile - one took a direct hit, and it cracked. I broke it apart to see what it looks like. They don't chip or crack easily, though. They're sturdy.

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment


When you hold them in your hands and shake them, they make a pleasant little chinking sound. They're very light.

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment


When I took them outside into the sun to photograph them, the wings took on a blue tint - at least, more so than when inside. Again, they're pretty light - even the slightest breeze moved them around while I was outside.

Beetle Wings for Embroidery Embellishment


To use them for embellishment, I'm told by Michael Cook, the Wormspit guy, that the wings should be steamed for five minutes to soften them, and then, using a sharp needle, holes are pierced at the tips and also on the sides, if you want (you pierce them, I assume, wherever you want to secure them to the fabric).

Now, where to get these things? You can find them on e-Bay, actually, at "herbkerb's" eBay store, Best deal Thai Goods. He sells them in different quantity packages: 200 of the regular green run about $15, with $5 shipping.... or you can go for bulk with 1,000 for $65.00! The smaller packages are grouped by color, so you can actually get predominantly blue-ish tones, green tones, copper tones, or whathaveyou. All of the wings are, of course, green, but they have these different elements of color in them. I have recently placed an order through this eBay store, but have not received it yet, so I can't vouch for the service personally yet, but they seem to have a good track record. The batch of wings above are from Michael Cook - I swapped with him for some silk samples! And speaking of which, he also sent a cocoon and some of his own silk - so more on that later!

The beauty and variety in God's creation is just amazing, isn't it? I'm really in awe of these little wings, and I'm looking forward to playing with them when the opportunity arises! I'll post results eventually.

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