Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Revisiting and Rethinking an Embroidery Project

Some of the earliest articles that featured photos of my own hand embroidery here on Needle 'n Thread were two posts that examined a project worked with silk threads on silk fabric. The two articles focused on one half of an embroidered stole worked predominantly in satin stitch and stem stitch filling. The first article featurs close-up pictures of the stole, and the second article featurs a photo of the whole stole.

This past weekend, at the request of a friend, I pulled the embroidery project out again, including the second half of the stole, which has been laced up on a scroll frame, neglected for many years.

In revisiting this project, I've had the opportunity to rethink a few things about it.

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


This is the beginning of the second half of the stole. In my mind, I remembered being about a third of the way finished with this half of the project. I'm not sure why I thought I was so far along. It's discouraging, actually, to see that I finished so little on the second half!

What slowed me down on this project? Why did I resign it to the shelf?

The first thing that happened was that Life got in the way. I remember frantically applying myself to the first half of the stole, and, after about 3 months, finishing it, setting up the second half, and making a start on it. But it was the middle of the school year by then, and things just got busy. So the project was set aside for a time.

Then, one day, I had visitors, a lady and a little girl. And the lady wanted to see my current embroidery project. The little girl - about six years old - was playing outside when I took the piece down. I looked at the piece with the lady, and had just turned away from it, when the little girl came in. I didn't think to pay close attention to her - her dirty hands were wet and sticky and a little muddy. And she made a bee-line for the frame. Before the thought could formulate in my head (I don't think I got beyond the internal "Noooooooooooooooooooooo!"), she had applied one particularly grimey finger to the fabric and threads, leaving a big, wet, dark spot on both the embroidery and the ground fabric.

Do you know how it is, when you have a "big" obstacle to overcome in a needlework project, and the obstacle kind of takes the wind out of your enthusiastic sails? This was the case for me. At the end of that day, I wrapped the frame up in a cloth, and tucked the whole thing away on the highest shelf, in a box. And it has been there ever since.

But in taking it out again this past weekend, I discovered several things.

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


First, I discovered that the way in which I originally transferred the design had been a good idea, for the image has withstood the test of time magnificently. On the soft gold silk ground fabric, I had used white dressmaker's carbon. The white, once embroidered over, is not visible at all - even if a little fringe of it is left beyond the embroidery. And yet, it is clearly visible on the silk ground fabric, due to its light white-ness and its matte finish against the shiny silk.

Dressmaker's carbon can be an excellent way to transfer a design on smooth fabric. You can find transfer paper in the sewing notions section of fabric stores. Saral Transfer Paper is a good brand to use if you can find it. The variety packs come with a sheet each of red, white, yellow, blue, and graphite (greyish black). The sheets can be used many times over. If you can't find Saral, Dritz also makes a wax-free dressmaker's transfer paper in five colors. It is probably more commonly available at sewing stores, and the size is actually perfect for a project like this stole, which is long and narrow. It comes in 5.5" x 19.5" sheets.

Though the frame for the stole was wrapped in fabric that rested against the design, and then packed again in a box with other stuff, and put on a top shelf for several years, the design is still crisp and fresh and hardly smudged at all. I'm glad to see that.

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


The next thing I learned is that I tend to exaggerate in my mind how serious a "flaw" is on a piece of needlework. The wet, dark smudge (that I thought could never be cleaned away) was right here, between these two "petals" on the embroidery. Where is it now? Did time take it away? Or was the flaw not quite as bad as I had worked it up in my mind to be? Whatever the case, that excuse for shelving the project is now completely gone. There was only the slightest sign of a bit of dirt on the silk threads in the top petal. A little scratch with the fingernail, and it was completely gone.

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


I've learned a lot more about embroidery in general, ecclesiastical embroidery in particular, and individual stitching techniques since I embroidered this piece. In my mind, I recall this piece as being a "beginning" step in my pursuit of serious embroidery. As a beginning step, I somehow had adopted the impression, over the years, that I didn't do a very good job on the piece. But in looking at it (and this isn't to honk my own horn - just to make a point), my satin stitching was actually pretty darned good. Had I convinced myself that it wasn't up to par, as a further excuse not to return to this project? It is Certainly Possible!

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


I can't help thinking that I might be hard-pressed, now, to replicate this satin stitching!

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


Finally, there is the question of this frame. When I first started this project, I would've killed for a slate frame (not literally, but...). I looked high and low, here and there, and absolutely everywhere for one. I settled for a scroll frame, because it was the only thing that could accommodate the silk, keep it relatively taut, and roll up the excess fabric.

But in looking at the framed up piece now, I can confirm that I was right about my lousy lacing job. And, on top of that, using masking tape to "finish" the edge was probably just downright stupid (though there is actually about 6" of excess fabric on each side of the design).

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


In my mind, whenever I thought of this project (because it does still hang over my head now and then, and I think on it with regret...), this lousy lacing job and the tape fiasco were obstacles to completing the piece. But are they, in reality, obstacles? Not really. It would be nothing, now, to take this frame apart, remount the piece on a slate frame using proper fabric edges, and tighten it up to work on it.

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


Going back to the original first half of the stole, I took some photos of it again. Since that first post on the subject oh-so-long ago, I've had two different cameras, each progressively better, and I've learned a bit about light, and also a bit about photo editing programs.

Hand Embroidered Stole in Silk Thread on Silk Fabric


I can't help looking at images of the original finished half of the stole and asking myself if it would be worth revisiting this project and even finishing it.

But now that some serious time has passed since I shelved the project, some serious issues have arisen that are truly obstacles. Of course, obstacles exist in order to be overcome!

The greatest obstacle is that of thread: the original piece was worked with Au Ver a Soie's Soie d'Alger. Though I had, at the time, purchased enough of the same dye lots for both sides of the stole, over the years, I have used those threads. Can I match them closely enough in order to finish the second half of the stole? Maybe. It is worth looking in to, but can't be done until I visit a shop that carries the threads.

There are several - actually, many - things that I would do differently now, if I were making this stole from the beginning. And this is another obstacle for me! It is more of a mental obstacle, though - which are the worst types of obstacles, because they require overcoming self, rather than overcoming something tangible outside of one's self.

I can't guarantee what I will do with this - whether I will finish it or not. Most of the trivial barriers that I had built up in my head regarding the whole project are gone, but a few serious ones still linger.

So, those are my musings on this project from the past. What would YOU do at this point? How would you come to a decision about whether or not to finish such a project?

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Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Church Embroidery: Watch This Progress!

When Ruth O'Leary contacted me about her taking an embroidery commission on a banner for Durham Cathedral, I was really intrigued about her banner-making plans. Since then, she has undertaken the commission and begun the work. And best yet, she's blogging the whole process!

If you haven't had an opportunity to stop by Ruth O'Leary Textile Arts, now would be a good time to do so, while she's still in the relative beginning stages of the St. Cuthbert's Banner.

Ruth O'Leary Textile Art Embroidery and Inspiration


Of course, if you like goldwork, you should stop by just to take a look at her header on her blog. I love it.

Ruth has been commissioned to re-create the St. Cuthbert's Banner, a banner of which there is no surviving image, but which was described in detail some five hundred years ago in writing. From the written description, she is creating her version of the banner.

So far, on the St. Cuthbert's banner, you can see Ruth's fabric choices, the conceptual design, a mock-up, the appliqué process, and the first leg of the cross, which is worked in red velvet, with red satin pieces appliqued on to create the design. You can also see a very nice goldwork circle already finished. She also shows how she neatened the edge of the applique cross with couched gold Jap - all the steps being interesting and suspense-building components of the whole creative process behind this banner. I can't wait to see it finished!

This year, I agreed to make a banner for a church-related event that takes place at the end of October. Oh golly, October is coming up fast! While Ruth's banner is much more complex, much more artistic, and much more historically relevant to the church for which it is commissioned, mine is - at least in concept so far - relatively simple, and mostly appliquéd. The color scheme, though, is the same - red, white, and gold, which are typical (and glorious) liturgical colors. Though time seems to be somewhat scarce, I have to admit that watching Ruth's process inspires me to want to push through my banner project and make some headway on it!

You reckon I can manage it? Realistically speaking, I'm somewhat doubtful. And if I don't, that's ok, I suppose. I can still enjoy the whole banner-making process (and actually, I can enjoy it a whole lot more!) by watching Ruth's St. Cuthbert Banner unfold.

I hope you get a chance to check out her website and watch this historical re-creation come to life!

Enjoy!

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Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Needlework Magazines Bring Pleasant Surprises

Mains & Merveilles Point de Croix is a French needlework magazine that I subscribe to. I often forget what needlework magazines I subscribe to, actually, because needlework magazines are notoriously (and understandably) far-spaced when it comes to yearly output. But the other day, I was reminded of my subscription to this particular magazine when it arrived in the mail. It is a cross stitch magazine.

I've written about this magazine company here on Needle 'n Thread in the past, when telling you about the Mains & Merveilles iron-on transfer collections that are very pretty (and used to be available at Hedgehog Handworks, but are no longer available there...)

Well, the company that put out those very nice iron-on transfer collections (Les Éditions de Saxe) also produces some Very Nice embroidery magazines: Embroidery, Creative Embroidery, and Cross Stitch (my translations of the titles). I only have a subscription right now to the Point de Croix line, having subscribed a little over a year ago because they were running a series I wanted to watch develop. Eventually, I'll pick up the other two subscriptions and probably let this one drop - when the others fit into the budget!

The needlework magazines from Les Éditions de Saxe have a distinctive European flair to them, and they are quality magazines - very pretty to look at, printed on good paper, filled with informative and interesting articles, and featuring a large paper pull out pattern section for all their featured projects. And the projects are generally beautiful. The magazines are printed entirely in French. If you don't read French, though, the content is still worthwhile - the patterns are beautiful, the instructions usually include step-by-step photos, and the pictures overall are simply worth looking at! I'd say the magazines rival Inspirations, as far as quality goes, though they don't have as much in them as each individual Inspirations magazine, and the projects differ a bit in flavor.

Getting back to the latest edition of Mains & Merveilles Point de Croix, three articles struck me in this latest issue (#74).

The first was a project article for these pretty paisley table and household linens that just look fun to embroider!

Mains & Merveilles Needlework Magazine


The paisleys are worked in various pinks and reds, entirely in surface embroidery stitches.

Mains & Merveilles Needlework Magazine


Of course, the color scheme can always be changed to match your own home! I think they're cute, and perfect for a casual, fun setting.

The next article that caught my eye was focused mostly on whitework and drawn thread techniques. As one of their regular features ("Passion Broderie"), this article shows the work of Jocelyne Dubois, who always has embroidery at her fingertips!

Mains & Merveilles Needlework Magazine


The whitework photos that accompany the article are gorgeous - the pieces are so impressive! What a talented embroiderer!

Mains & Merveilles Needlework Magazine


Her edgings are intricate and perfect. And while I don't normally pour over this particular magazine and attempt to read it, I found myself engrossed in this article (accompanied by my French-English dictionary from college days!) I was thrilled to open the magazine and find this article!

But, you know, while these two features excited me more than usual, the publishers had one more thing in store for me when I finished the whitework article. Flipping the page, I came across this layout:

Mains & Merveilles Needlework Magazine


There was a whole feature article on a currently running ecclesiastical embroidery exhibition that honors the work of the Visitation nuns in Europe, dating from the 17th century to the present day. And this being one of my favorite topics - historical ecclesiastical embroidery - I was really excited about this article! Better yet... I've got to go to France! NOW. The exhibition lasts until November 28, 2009, at the Museum of the Visitation (convent?) in Moulins, France. I'm ... I'm so stuck in Kansas, it isn't even funny! Anyway, I'm stuck - but if you happen to be in the area of Moulins, France, through November 28th, I bet this will be an exhibit that will knock your embroidery-loving socks off! Even if you aren't inclined towards the religious aspects of church embroidery, it cannot be denied that it is among the most beautiful embroidery work on the planet. The Visitation nuns were known for their exquisite work - the collection will certainly be worth seeing.

(If you happen to go, may I live vicariously through you?)

So I was really pleased with this last edition of Mains & Merveilles Point de Croix from Les Éditions de Saxe. While I normally just flip through the photos once and note the things that may interest me later (or my nieces or friends), this time, I spent quite a bit of time pouring over the articles and trying to get over my rusty French. It was fun - and it was the first time I really appreciated my subscription to this magazine!

Do you subscribe to any needlework magazines? If so, which ones? What's your favorite? Are you generally thrilled to get them, or do they just strike your fancy once in a while? That seems to be the case for me often, with all my magazine subscriptions (Inspirations, Pieceworks, Sampler & Antique Needlework, and M&M). Sometimes, they just don't grab me, but then suddenly - wow! They bamboozle me with magnificent content, and that's when I most appreciate the subscription. What about you? What's your experience with needlework magazine subscriptions?

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Saturday, July 11, 2009

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Comparison of Pieces

 
While visiting San Carlos Borromeo Mission in Carmel, California, last week, I enjoyed looking at their display case of old embroidered vestments. One in particular caught my eye, because it was very similar to another vestment I had seen several years ago on display in Clyde, Missiouri. I thought I'd put the two similar elements up together here so that you can see the similarities, too.

Both vestments were certainly hand embroidered. I know for a fact that the vestments in Clyde, Missouri, are hand embroidered, and, looking at the ones at San Carlos up close, it is obvious that they, too, were worked by hand.

Both vestments are "Roman" in style - that is, they are oblong rectangles - and in the middle of the back of the vestment (the part that, in the traditional ceremonies of the Church, face the congregation most of the time), there is a round medallion featuring the face of Christ, with a small bit of text surrounding the face. The medallions are centered in an elaborately embroidered cross. The surrounding embroidered cross is not really the focal point here, because, except in size, they aren't similar at all.

The following medallion is on a vestment at the Benedictine convent in Clyde, Missouri:

Hand Embroidered Vestment: Medallion of the Face of Christ


The colors are a little surprising. The photo was taken inside, in regular lighting, and the piece was behind glass. Still, these were the colors, more or less - predominantly blues and pinks.

Hand Embroidered Vestment: Medallion of the Face of Christ


The vestment at San Carlos in Carmel featured much warmer colors - golds, reds, deep bluish-greens.

The overall look of the two vestments reflect completely different "eras" of art. The top piece, for example, has a somewhat art-nouveau look to it (this style of art being popular from the late 1800's through the early 1900's, with the peak of popularity being between about 1890-1905/10 - about a 15 to 20 year spread of time). The second piece, from San Carlos, is more conservative in style and color selection. But the similarities between the faces is what is intriguing.

The points of similarity that strike me especially are:

1. The arrangement - the circle, the text, the face.
2. The nose and eyebrows
3. The cheekbones
4. The eyes
5. The lips - though dissimilar in color, the are similar in structure, including the space just below the lips.

The hair and beard on the two pieces are different, too - the stitching on the beard on the second piece is much "lighter" and fuzzier looking. The top medallion features very dark lines under the edge of the moustache, which draws the mouth down. Yet, essentially, the two moustaches are the same shape, even to the point of the left side looking less angled than the right.

It is pretty clear that the two pieces were worked from the same image as a pattern, but the interpretations are slightly different. My guess? That a line of patterns with this image of the face was available from the late 1800's through the early 1900's, but that, though the face was the same, the embroiderer could select from a series of patterns that featured different styles of text, wording, etc., and that the individual embellishment of the cross and halo and the surrounding edge were left to the embroiderer's imagination and skill. Probably, a catalog of embroidery patterns was available at the time, and convents, houses of embroidery, or individuals selected their patterns from the catalog.

That's just a guess. I have a couple other images from different vestments in different parts of the country that support the notion that common patterns were used (probably ordered from catalogs) in ecclesiastical embroidery found on old vestments. One image in particular comes to mind, so when I find those photos, I'll put them up for you to see.

I thought it was kind of neat to find two such similar images in hand embroidery, some thousands of miles apart, but both in museums that reflect the religious heritage of the area in which they are located. I also like the fact that the choice of colors and the arrangement of design on the back of the chasuble (the embroidered cross) reflect both the individual embroiderers' tastes and the location / use of the vestment. The second medallion above, for example, is perfect for San Carlos, as far as colors are concerned. The vestment belonging to the first medallion would look entirely out of place in the sanctuary at the mission in California, but it probably worked great in the chapel in Clyde, Missouri.

Any input or observations?

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Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Adding Texture with Seed Stitch

 
After stitching all the lines on my current embroidery project, the next step was to add some seed stitching. I figured filling in certain areas in seed stitch would accomplish two things: it would add some texture and it would make the prominent parts of the design stand out. And so, I proceeded to stitch hundreds - perhaps thousands! - of tiny seed stitches.

There's nothing at all complicated about seed stitching! Some books show seed stitch as two tiny stitches stitched as a pair perfectly parallel to each other, randomly covering an area. I only use one stitch, personally, stitching tiny single stitches randomly to fill an area.

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


Above, you can see the beginnings of the seed stitching. I started in the diamond area on the right, which was probably a mistake. Actually, I'm sure it was a mistake! You can see one spot in the center of the diamond that's a bit crowded. See, the diamond is relatively small, so there's not a lot of room there to really get up a rhythm with the stitching and gauge distance and so forth. Once you get the feel for the spacing and all that, seed stitching is a breeze. But starting and stopping in a tiny area doesn't really do it.

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


Now, you might wonder why I didn't take out the seed stitching in the diamond area described above, and there you have one disadvantage of closely-worked seed stitch: it makes a jolly mess of the fabric if you decide to pick it out. Oh, and the picking! It just isn't worth it! I figured once the whole piece was stitched, that little crowded area in the diamond would not really be noticeable to anyone but me.

In the photo directly above, I've progressed a bit further with the seed stitching, and managed to take a picture in "natural" light as the sun slanted in.

Notice that I didn't seed stitch the main element of the design itself (that's the "M" in the center of the scalloped circle). I thought that seed stitching on the background, around the M, would actually take the background further back, and make the M stand out more, as in relief. That was my plan, anyway, and I think overall, it worked out.

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


You can really see the bumpy texture of the stitching here. For the outlines on the project, you may remember that I used #20 coton a broder. For the seed stitching, I used #25 coton a broder, for two reasons: 1. I ran out of #20 (which really narrows it down to one reason, I guess - it's not as if I had a choice!) and 2. I figured the finer thread would look better. I had planned on using #25 for the seed stitching, anyway. What's funny is that I ran out of #20 coton a broder for the outline exackitackily as I finished my last few stitches of the outline. I had about 4" of thread to spare when finished. I've never come that close to running out of thread before!

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


Here's the whole central medallion finished, and one crown (lower left).

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


My favorite part of the design are these scrolls and fleur de lys tips surrounded by the seed stitching. I think it looks ok, don't you? I mean, I don't want to say, "Golly, am I good, or what?" because that's not what I'm thinking! I'm just glad it came out looking pretty nice. There's quite a bit of chance involved in that, you see - I really had no idea that the seed-stitched background would be successful. It was just a hunch, and once I started, I knew I was in it, so I had to finish. I was glad that it worked out!

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


From a bit of a distance, here's the whole piece with the seed stitching done. Hm. At this angle and in this light, you do kind of lose the center image.

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


But this is more what you see without the bright light (Ott light), and here, the central M is pretty clear.

Seed Stitch on Hand Embroidered Pall


Another disadvantage of seed stitching... not to be negative here!... is the finger hole. The finger hole? The finger hole!

I ended up with one of those tiny little needle holes in my middle finger on my right hand, which is the finger I generally use to manipulate my needle. Oh boy - you know, one of those teeeny holes made by the eye of the needle, and which the eye miraculously finds, no matter how hard you try to avoid it! There's nothing quite like it when the back of your needle slides on into a little hole like that!

You know what my solution is? Oh - I know you're thinking, "Wear a thimble, dummy!" But no, no... Super glue. I put a dot of super glue over the little hole and let it dry. It works great!

Ok, so that's the seed stitching, done! Yippee. I've sewn the pall together already, and made the back - I'll show you that in a future post, along with the finished pall with the lace attached. I'm halfway through sewing the lace right now, and will have it done probably before you even read this post!

Thank you for your oh-so-nice comments on the Blogiversary Post of yesterday! If you haven't signed up for my three year blogiversary give-away, don't forget! It's over tomorrow morning, at 5:00 am CST. Thanks also for the insight into your likes and what you'd like to see more of on Needle 'n Thread. I've got a post planned that will have a permanent link for all 'tags' - which will help make things a bit more searchable, I hope.

And, on that note, I'm off to finish up the lace, then shopping in preparation for my trip (leaving Thursday morning!). Don't worry - I've got some Super Duper articles lined up for you while I'm going, and I hope to be blogging a bit along the journey, especially about any tidbits that might involve needlework shops!

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Saturday, June 13, 2009

Thread Ridges and Seed Stitch to Come

 
Here's a wee update on my current embroidery project, a white-on-white ecclesiastical piece. I've finished all the outlining on the design, and now I'm going to seed stitch certain parts of it.

On this piece, I'm using whipped backstitch to form the ridged outlines. I wanted a firm line with a little height to it, but I didn't want to work an overcast or trailing outline around the whole design, because that would've taken ten forevers! So whipped backstitch was the choice, as it's relatively quick to work and I do like the look of the lines created by the stitch.

Hand Embroidered Pall


You can see above the difference between the backstitching and the whipped backstitch - the crown part of the design at the top of the photo has already been whipped, and the line is much smoother than the backstitch line. It's funny - in these photos, which were taken under a bright light, I really like the look of the backstitch, too. Actually, I like to look at the contrast between the backstitched line and the smoother lines of the whipped backstitch.

Hand Embroidered Pall


A couple little warbly problems presented themselves in the whole backstitch-whipping endeavor. Why does this happen? Pretty much, it's because the working thread gets too twisted, and as it twists on itself, it stiffens as it wraps around the backstitches. The solution: drop your thread and let it untwist every so often. In fact, when whipping the stitch like this, depending on the direction you're working in, the thread will often become twisted very quickly, so it's a good idea to drop that needle and let it dangle from your work quite often, in order for the tread to untwist.

Hand Embroidered Pall


Overall, I like the design and the ridged line created by the stitch. My intention was to create a high enough line that it would cast a small shadow, making the design more visible from afar. I wasn't sure how well that plan would work, but at least, with a ridged line rather than a flat outline, I know it will be somewhat more visible from afar.

Hand Embroidered Pall


I tried photographing the piece at different angles in different light to see if I could get a decent shadow from the lines...

Hand Embroidered Pall


... but I'm no grand photographer, and I don't always "get it," when it comes to picture-taking!

Hand Embroidered Pall


But then, just as I was closing up shop for the day, for the first time all day, the sun came out. It was slanting in the western window in my studio, right across my work, and I said, "Wow. Now there's a shadow!"

Hand Embroidered Pall


The linen doesn't look as white here through the eye of the camera, I suppose. BUT ... the relief created by the stitching is much more obvious.

Yes, I'm satisfied so far with this part of the stitching. It's the look I wanted, anyway. Now, on to the seed stitching! I'm trying to optimistically think that I'll be finished with all the stitching by this evening, and able to assemble the pall tomorrow and put a hand-tatted edge on it. Um. Well, there's nothing wrong with optimism! I'll let you know if it happens!

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Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Backstitch? Ya Gotta Be Joking...

 
Eventually, you are guaranteed an in-depth look at my current embroidery project - I promise! - along with all kinds of explanations, information, troubleshooting and whatnot. Today, in fact, besides the little annoying slip knot, I have another problem to fix...

But, given a bit of limited time right now, I'm going to show you instead some of the stitching, and pretty much leave it at that!

Now, I suppose you are probably expecting something grandiose. Something so Complex and Time-Consuming that your sympathy will be aroused as you contemplate my sweating over a looming deadline while having to stitch some intricate technique...

Oh, golly. Please don't be too disappointed!

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Hand Embroidered Pall


Yep. That's backstitch, all right!

But don't underestimate the backstitch - it has come through for me before, and I think it will this time, too.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Hand Embroidered Pall


That line on the right is really what I am going to achieve with it - whipped backstitch, to be precise. There are other more complicated ways to make a nice thin, firm line in embroidery, but the whipped backstitch is a fairly quick and painless way to do so while still achieving nice-looking results.

I've never considered backstitch a very "formal" or elegant stitch. At best, on its own, I'd call it clean-looking and sometimes even "cute." But elegant or formal is a bit of a stretch. Whipped backstitch, on the other hand, dresses the backstitch up a bit, smooths it out, and turns it into a precise line stitch that looks good on slight curves and even around tight corners.

Believe it or not, despite its simplicity, whipped backstitch can be a bit more time-consuming than other line stitches (such as stem stitch), only because whipped backstitch takes two steps - first the backstitching, then the wrapping. But the latter part goes fairly quickly.

A hint: when you finish your backstitching and are getting ready to whip the stitches, switch to a tapestry needle with a blunt tip. Much easier!

Once the backstitching is finished, I'll progress to filling up certain spaces with very tiny seed stitching and lots of it. That's the time-consuming part!

Today, I have to deal with an onslaught of high humidity that has taken its toll on the framed-up fabric! What was all smooth and tight yesterday morning is ripply and loose and warped-looking today. I'd turn on the AC to elminate the humidity, but Kansas being what it is, it's only 64 degrees out! Thank goodness for evertite frames. If tightening doesn't do it, though, stay tuned for Plan B!

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Tuesday, June 09, 2009

Catching Up with Stitching and My Day

 
Have you noticed that I don't often miss writing a post in the morning, especially on week days? I thought about that this morning, and I really wanted to write something spectacularly engrossing, all about embroidery and all about the great strides I'm making on my current project. Unfortunately, the morning got away from me, and then I had to make frantic headway on stitching and other craft doings (preparing some wedding shower gifts). I only have one thing to say about all of it, and I'm going to say it with a photo....

I mean, really, what's the most irritating thing that can happen while you're engrossed in your embroidery, stitching along, making good progress, thinking all's going well?

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Hand Embroidered Pall


Right. You turn it over to finish off, and you see that.

It's called a slip knot.

I hate them.

That's about how my day has gone! Fortunately, these are relatively easy to take care of. I'll show you how I remedy problems like this in an upcoming post!

I hope you have had a much more satisfactory day!

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Friday, June 05, 2009

Reader's Embroidery: Dormition Icon in Silk and Gold

 
This ecclesiastical embroidery piece is an icon of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, from the Eastern Orthodox tradition. Lynn, who is an iconographer, has taken to embroidering icons lately, and this one is gorgeous!

You will probably be amazed to know that this is Lynn's first attempt with goldwork!

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


The Theotokos (Blessed Virgin) was embroidered separately, then appliquéd to the veleveteen background, onto which the text and flowers are directly stitched. The finished embroidery measures 12" x 21".

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


The figure is worked in silk shading techniques, following the traditional color schemes and definition found in icons. The cloth on which the figure rests is worked in Or Nué and the gold background is made up of couched double gold threads.

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


The halo or nimbus is also couched gold - very neatly and well done, I'd say! The head of the Virgin rests on a very life-like pillow. You can also see here the neat stitching in red, and a close-up of the white stripes on the background cloth.

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


In iconography, the art is more two-dimensional. Unlike the realistic shading found in later art (Medieval, Renaissance, and beyond), the Byzantine art and icons tend to look flatter. This was done on purpose, to concentrate the viewer's thoughts on what the art is expressing, rather than on the art itself. (This is also one of the reasons why most iconographers in early history were anonymous, and the same holds true for church art in the West, even into the medieval era just before the Renaissance.) I think this icon tradition is reflected really well here at the base of the gown. It's just realistic enough to give the impression the artist wants to give, but not overly detailed - perfect shading for an icon.

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


Here are the hands, folded in repose. I wanted actually to draw your attention to the very fine gold line around the red robe. A nice touch!

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


Lilies are a symbol of the Virgin. These were stitched directly onto the velveteen background, along with the text:

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


Isn't this piece beautifully done? I think it's absolutely gorgeous. And to think that it is a "first attempt" at goldwork is astounding!

Thanks, Lynn, for sending the photo! Congratulations on a beautiful piece of art!

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Sunday, May 31, 2009

Ecclesiastical Embroidery Project Underway

 
Last week, between the relative chaos of ending another school year, I managed to get out to the studio and set up this ecclesiastical embroidery project. The project is another pall, this time with a different design on it.

The design for this piece of embroidery comes from a book called Designs for Church Embroidery by Thomas Brown & Son. I'm lucky enough to have an old copy of the book - it was a catalog at one time, actually - but it has since been reprinted by Lacis, and you can find it in their online catalog. Just search the title, and it'll come right up.

I altered the original design a bit. It was originally just a circle with the "M" that you see in the middle. I added the tips and the little fleur de lys to it, to make it a bit more decorative.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Hand Embroidered Pall


The Bohin ceramic pencil came in really handy for the transferring of the design. I used the greenish-blue ceramic lead, and it worked quite well. The pencil gives a crisp, fine line. Before I used it, I tested it on a piece of scrap linen, writing with various amounts of pressure on the linen, then trying out the eraser - which worked fine on the light to medium pressure lines - and I also rinsed the fabric, which took out all but a trace of the heavier pressure lines. I was satisfied that it would work ok for white-on-white embroidery.

Ideally, when you're working white-on-white embroidery, it's a good idea to use blue for your transfer. The dressmaker's blue pencils work fine, for example, as does dressmaker's blue carbon, both of which are available in the notions section at most sewing stores. You see, white absorbs the blue, so even if a trace is left on the linen, it isn't normally noticeable, and with time, it goes away. When you use grey or red for a transfer in whitework, the thread will pick up the color and will be tainted grey or red. But with blue, even if the thread picks up the color, you don't see it - it absorbs into the white, making it seem brighter.

I don't really know why this is, but I'm sure there's some sort of scientific reason!

Anyway, I liked the Bohin pencil. I haven't started stitching yet, but I think the transfer will be fine for white-on-white.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Hand Embroidered Pall


Here's the design, transferred. The pall is a 6.25" square piece of linen, made like a pocket, with the top side decorated. I cut the fabric 16" long and 9.5" wide to give plenty of room for seams and for mounting on a stretcher bar frame. The fabric will be folded in half, to make the pocket, then the two sides of the pocket will be sewn up, and a 6.25" square piece of mat board inserted into it. Then the last side is hand stitched closed. Lace of some sort is generally applied to the edge by tacking it on after assembling the piece. I like to use hand-tatted lace, as I think it looks quite nice on a pall. Tacking the lace on allows for removal of the lace for cleaning purposes, in case of need.

One of the most frequent questions I get asked via e-mail is how to transfer an embroidery pattern after it is printed or drawn. I do have a list of links that deals with this question in various ways under the Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery section. For this project, I'm using a light box to trace the design. You can use a sunny window with equally good effect, though it is sometimes a bit harder on the arms if your pattern is complicated and takes time to transfer!

My next step after transferring was the frame up the piece, which I've already done, and then to pick out threads, which I've already done as well. Now, it's just a matter of stitching! I'm going to use #30 coton a broder on this, in white. I think. I'm oscillating between #25 and #30, actually, though I don't think there's that much of a difference between the two sizes to justify hesitation!

This will be the project I'll be stitching on for at least the next week, I figure. I hope to have it done by the end of the upcoming weekend, if all goes well. Once it's done, I have one more to do, too. Although I like doing this kind of work, I have to admit that I don't normally like making two of the same things in a row, so for the second one, I've chosen a design I've done before, but not for a while.

And then, once these two projects are finished, I can move on to something that involves color - and I can't wait to show you what that is! I'll tell you tomorrow!

Coming up this week on Needle 'n Thread: a special give-away. Once you see tomorrow's article, you'll probably be able to guess what the give-away is!

Now that the school year is officially over, I'll be able to devote a little more time to embroidery projects, tutorials for the website (in various forms), and some other projects, all of which I'll be keeping you up to date on!

I hope you've had a great weekend!

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Sunday, April 12, 2009

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Elaborate Altar Super Frontal

 
Happy Easter! To celebrate the day, I want to share with you another piece of ecclesiastical embroidery - this time, an elaborate super frontal for an altar.

In Catholic and Anglican churches, the altar in the front of the church would sometimes be adorned with an antependium, or frontal. If made of cloth, the frontal was usually embellished, either embroidered or appliquéd. In some churches, especially larger churches, a super frontal would also be used ("super" actually from "supra," meaning "above" the frontal) in addition to the frontal. The super frontal was a long decorated piece, not very high, but wide enough to span the width of the altar. Sometimes, it was "built into" the frontal (separated, for example, by trim, to mark off the super frontal area), but more often, especially in more elaborate churches and chapels, it was a separate piece. Think of it like a valance, almost, floating above the frontal.

This super frontal was embroidered by the Benedictines in Clyde, MO, before the 1950's. If you've been reading Needle 'n Thread for a while, you will probably recognize the look of it, as it was a source of inspiration for me when I embroidered an ecclesiastical piece a few years ago.

Agnus Dei Altar Frontal


The piece is very long - I would guess at least 10 feet in length, perhaps longer. The center medallion is the Agnus Dei symbol. The Lamb with the banner is a representation of Christ, sacrificed and triumphantly risen from the dead. Around the central medallion are many colorful scroll designs featuring plenty of stylized pomegranates, which, in ecclesiastical embroidery, symbolize resurrection and new life.

The embroidery on the center medallion is worked on a dark gold-colored cloth. It's not shiny silk, though it might be silk. It has a kind of noticeable weave to it. When I first saw it, I thought it was a strange color for the background - but, in relation to the colors in the rest of the super frontal, I think it works really well.

Agnus Dei Altar Frontal


From this side view, you can also see that there are banners with text embroidered on them.

Agnus Dei Altar Frontal


Here, you can get a better view of the scrolls, acanthus leaves, and stylized pomegranates. The leaves and vines are worked in chain stitch.

Agnus Dei Altar Frontal


The stylized pomegranates are worked mostly in long and short stitch, although the undersides of the turned up leaves are worked in satin stitch.

Agnus Dei Altar Frontal


Across the entire length of the top of the super frontal, there is a goldwork strip, punctuated by lettering satin stitched in red. The gold background threads are evenly couched in a pattern, and on top of the gold, inside and around the lettering, are scrolls worked with a wavy gold thread, like rococco. I have heard that the Sisters at this convent, and at the (no longer functioning) convent in O'Fallon, MO - where the Benedictines also made elaborate ecclesiastical pieces - had machines that couched the gold background threads two at a time. I've never seen a couching machine, but I've heard from someone who was fortunate to receive one of the machines from O'Fallon before they disbanded their embroidery workshop, that the machines do indeed couch two laid threads at a time with precision, without damaging the threads. It'd be interesting to see that in action!

Agnus Dei Altar Frontal


At the base of the Lamb is a book with the Alph and Omega on each page. I really liked this symbolism, so I was sure to include it in my Agnus Dei.

Here's the piece that I worked a few years ago, taking some inspiration from the super frontal featured above:

Agnus Dei: Ecclesiastical Embroidery


The lamb I drew is not as angular, and the banner is a bit less angular as well. The wool on the lamb on the super frontal above is what really caught my eye - it is the most realistic wool I had ever seen embroidered, so I wanted to imitate that. It was fun, figuring it out, and it turned out well. I'd love to do another piece like this - not the same piece, but similar - one day soon!

If you want to read about the progress of this piece from beginning to end, you can check out my gallery. It's near the top of the list, under ecclesiastical embroidery. You can also see close-ups of different elements in it, including the wool.

I wish you all a very joyful Easter!

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