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Friday, October 09, 2009

Hand Embroidered Lettering and Text

Frequently, e-mails show up in my inbox requesting pointers on how to hand embroider text or lettering. Here are a few of the questions on this subject that have shown up in the last couple years:

What stitches should I use to embroider a name?

I'm hand embroidering a poem on a quilt. What type of lettering should I use and how do I stitch it?

How many strands of thread should I use to embroider text on a baby blanket?

I want to hand embroider a baseball cap but I don't know what stitches to use. Can you help me?

I'm using stem stitch to embroider a poem, but my stem stitch looks bad especially when I go around corners. Any ideas how I can fix it?

To answer all these questions and more, I've developed a plan...

... and I plan to work on the plan over this weekend. In the upcoming weeks here on Needle 'n Thread, I'll be presenting some short tutorials on embroidering lettering or text by hand.

Hand Embroidered Text and Lettering

Not to be confused with stitching monograms, embroidering text or lettering - especially multiple words - so that it looks good and is clear to read can be daunting. I want to address the subject so that beginners especially can get the hang of hand embroidered lettering without suffering too much grief along the way.

Do you have any questions about the subject that you would like to see particularly addressed? If so, now's your opportunity to bring them up, so I can address them in the tutorials!

If you've embroidered lettering before, I'd love to know what your favorite stitch is for lettering!

What do you think? Will this be a worth-while series of short tutorials? Any thoughts or suggestions?

Labels: beginner embroidery, hand embroidered lettering, hand embroidery information, Hand embroidery stitches, miscellaneous embroidery musings, needlework tutorials

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Saturday, September 12, 2009

Linen for Hand Embroidery

Linen is my all-time absolute Favorite Fabric for hand embroidery, and there are many good online sources for purchasing quality linen. At the request of some readers, here's some information about buying linen for hand embroidery.

The range of types and quality of linen for hand embroidery is pretty vast. It's Very Vast, actually. In sharing my experiences with linen, I'll only be talking about a limited selection of linens available for needlework. I'm always happy to hear about different types of needlework linen, where it's available, and what people like about it - so if you have any input on this subject, please do leave a comment below so that we get as broad a view as possible on different types of linens.

That being said, some linen made for needlework I just can't stand. Have you ever gone into the local craft store - Joann's, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, Hancock Fabrics, etc. - and explored the fabrics in the needlework section? You'll sometimes find linen there - it comes folded in bags hanging on hooks or rolled in plastic tubes. I'm not sure of the brands off the top of my head, but I fear some of those packages are probably DMC. Now, I like DMC stranded cotton for an everyday embroidery floss, but golly. Those packages of linen just don't do it when you want a quality fabric. They're ok for learning on, I suppose, but when you're ready to kick things up a notch, it's time to look for better linen.

So, here's some linen talk that may help you decide on what kind of linen you want to use, and some sources for buying linen for needlework.

First of all, what is linen? It's a fabric made from the inner skin of the flax plant. It's been around as a fabric for thousands of years. Way back in history some four or five thousand years ago, the Jews of the Old Testament used it, the Egyptians used it (before they got into cotton, I suppose!), as did the Greeks and the Romans, and eventually, it moved north into Europe with the re-civilization of Europe after the fall of Rome. We can say that flax has been woven into fabric, then, across pretty much all the known ages of the written history of Western Civilization. It's Old Stuff.

Linen has always been somewhat expensive, and this is due to the way it must be harvested, processed, and woven. If you want to read about the making of linen - from harvest to weaving - from an historical perspective, with nice photos along the way, take a look at the article "Linen Weaving" on Maggie Blanck's website. It's really interesting! I stumbled across it a while ago when I was preparing a teaching unit on the book Silas Marner.

When considering linen for needlework, it's necessary to determine ahead of time what type of project you're planning to stitch, because the type of project will determine the type of fabric you want to use. For example, if you're stitching a counted cross stitch piece, you'll want "even weave" linen. If you're stitching a crewel work piece (or something similar to it), you might want to use linen twill. If you're stitching goldwork and you want a linen ground, you don't necessarily need something as heavy as twill, but you'll want a good, sturdy linen (probably with a closer weave, higher thread count - but not necessarily even weave). If you're working regular surface embroidery - say, a fine needlepainting project - you'll want a lighter weave of linen (but not too light that it's flimsy), with a higher count thread that's firm enough and closely woven enough to support all the stitches. Oh, so many things to consider!!

Then, of course, there's the question of quality. Are you stitching a project in which you are investing much time and money, to produce a work of art that you want to last for a long time? Then you probably want to use a good quality linen.

In considering quality of linen, you have to go back to its origins - the flax crop. Flax crops around the world vary in the quality of flax they produce. Flax is grown in many countries, and linen is woven in many countries - from Ireland, to Germany, to Egypt, to Italy, to China, to the US, and so on. It seems to be the common opinion, though, that flax grown in Belgium and other close-by areas of northern Europe is the "best" flax for making linen. Belgian linen is usually considered good linen. Though my experiences in fabric do not encompass every type of linen made in every region of the world, I have tried lots of different linens for stitching. I have to say that I have never used a Belgian linen I didn't like. Even the less-expensive Belgian linens I've tried have been pretty nice.

And that brings us to the question of expense. By less-expensive Belgian linen, I'm talking about $30 - $40 / yard. Many fine quality needlework linens are more expensive than this.

My all-time favorite linen is Legacy linen. It's a Belgian linen woven with nice plump threads, and though it is not all even-weave fabric, even the plain weave comes close to being even weave, as the warp and weft threads are generally pretty evenly sized. It has a GREAT hand. It's got body, but it isn't stiff, and it isn't prepared with sizing to give it body - even after washing, it still retains its nice drape along with linen crispness. It irons beautifully. I just love Legacy linen. But... it is ... whew. Expensive.

On the bright side, we don't normally use a whole yard of linen for a needlework project, do we? So retailers often make good linen available in popular-sized cuts.

If you're looking for good linen, here are the brands that I think range from Very Good to good, and readers are welcome to add their input for their favorite types of linen in the comments below, too:

1. Legacy linen - my all-time favorite. I think it's the best linen on the market, personally.

I buy different types of Legacy linen through various sources:

Hedgehog Handworks now carries a good range, especially if you're looking for linen suitable for historical needlework. Out of the linens listed there, I love the alabaster angel, alba maxima, and ecclesiastical.

Needle in a Haystack carries a decent line of Legacy linen, including even-weave.

Wyndham Needleworks (it takes them forever to fill an order - if you don't mind waiting two or three weeks, though, it's a decent source).

Lakeside Linens, by the way, offer some hand-dyed Legacy linens, so if you want the hand-dyed look with the quality of Legacy linens, see what Lakeside Linens has to offer in this line. I haven't tried any of the Lakeside Linens, because I don't normally work on colored fabric, but I've got a project brewing in my head that requires a nice light buttery yellow ground fabric - I may be contacting Lakeside Linens or one of their retailers to see what they have.

2. Weddigen linen - this is a new-to-me linen that I discuss in this article on Schwalm whitework. I've also given the source for it in the article. It's available in two even-weave thread counts, approximately 32 threads per inch and 50 threads per inch. It's a nice linen, and I intend to use it in the future for other projects besides Schwalm.

3. Church linen - I have ordered excellent linen from Church Linens and Vestments. Elizabeth Morgan stocks one kind of linen and it is perfect for church linens as well as any kind of surface embroidery that you want to work on white linen. It's a nice quality linen for surface embroidery and very reasonably priced at $27 / yard (54" wide). I like it a lot, and I'm pretty sure she's still selling it. I need to order more!!

4. Combinations of various types of even-weave linen, from Zweigart to Graziano (Italian linen) to Lakeside Linens can be purchased through various needlework shops online. I have not tried Graziano linen, but I would like to one of these days. Zweigart is ok for counted thread work, and Lakeside linens are actually other types of linen (like Legacy, Zweigart, Graziano, etc.) that are hand-dyed - I mentioned them above under Legacy linen.

Some sources for a variety of linens:

I like Shakespeare's Peddler - she has a good selection of fabrics and is very friendly and easy to order from (she can send a Paypal invoice, which is very convenient).

Nordic Needle carries a wide variety of popular even-weave linens. They don't seem to carry higher end linens (like Dower quality linens - Legacy, Strathaven, etc.) but they have a good selection of decent even-weaves.

Needle in a Haystack - already mentioned above - has all kinds of different types of needlework linens, including some of the higher-end linens like Legacy.

You've probably noticed that my sources overlap, but that's the way it is - I order from a fairly limited selection of shops, but they all carry good linen, have great service, and fair enough prices.

What about you? What type of linen do you use and where do you buy it? What's your favorite type, and why do you like it? Feel free to comment and help me broaden the topic a bit, so that readers can benefit from your input, too! Thanks heaps!

Enjoy the weekend!

Labels: embroidery resources, embroidery tips and tricks, fabric for embroidery, hand embroidery information, linen, needlework websites

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Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Great Needlework Resource: Jane Zimmerman Online

If you haven't had a chance to visit the website of needlework teacher and designer, Jane Zimmerman - or if you didn't know about it before now - here's a good opportunity to get acquainted with a fantastic lady who revels in historical needlework of various types and canvas work...

Jane Zimmerman's website hosts some really valuable information for the embroiderer, and, because the site is relatively new, you can be sure that the future will bring much more of the same quality information, so it's a site you probably will want to bookmark and come back to over and over again.

For starters, there's a section on the website titled Needlework History. Here, you'll find an index of articles on different aspects of historical needlework. The first three articles are already available as PDFs. They cover the following topics: The Medieval Embroidery Technique of Or Nue, English Medieval Embroidery, and The Art of English Blackwork. If you like the historical aspects of needlework, don't miss these articles! They're well-written - and they're packed with pictures!

On the how-to side of things, don't miss Jane's Needlework Techniques page. The first two chapters on techniques are available as PDFs. The first chapter focuses on instruction in traditional Or Nue techniques (gold threads couched with colored silk), and the second focuses on adapting Or Nue to canvas work. Both are detailed "how to" articles, with instruction and photos. They're wonderful resources!

Besides the historical and instructional side of things, you'll find on Jane's site two nice galleries: one features guest artists, and the other features her own students' work. Definitely worth browsing if you like to look at photos of fine needlework!

In addition to information and photos, you can also purchase some of Jane Zimmerman's self-published needlework books, needlepoint kits, and instructional charts and booklets for different projects.

I hope you enjoy browsing her site as much as I did. If you have the time and the opportunity, do read her articles! They're well worth it!

Labels: canvas stitches, embroidery designers, embroidery resources, goldwork, hand embroidery information, historical needlework, silk

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Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Goldwork Tip: Stretching Pearl Purl

As a follow up on how to use pearl purl, here's another option for this beautiful real metal thread. It still involves couching, but for this technique, you use a colored embroidery thread.

When you stretch pearl purl, the coils open and it looks even more like a spring. The gold thread (I always have a problem calling goldwork threads "threads" for some reason!) has nice spaces between the coils for couching, and if you couch in every other coil, you can achieve a different and interesting effect.

Goldwork: Stretching Pearl Purl

Although I already showed you this little motif when I was discussing goldwork on a crazy quilt square, I thought it worth while to bring it up again, to demonstrate what you can do with stretched pearl purl, and to show you how it looks next to regular pearl purl.

In the photo above, the last inside circle at the base of the motif is stretched pearl purl, couched in every-other-coil with red silk buttonhole twist. Directly above the stretched pearl purl is pearl purl #3, and above that, pearl purl size #F1.

To use stretched pearl purl, cut about half the length you need for the line you want to cover.

To stretch, grip each end of the pearl purl with your fingernails (well, I find it easiest to use my nails between the last coil or two). Pull gently with consistent pressure from both hands until the pearl purl has doubled in length.

Goldwork: Embroidery with Real Metal Thread: Stretching and Couching Pearl Purl

Goldwork: Embroidery with Real Metal Thread: Stretching and Couching Pearl Purl

If you have coils on the end that are still closed, either stretch them or cut them off. Make sure that your length of pearl purl covers the line you want to cover, though, before you cut!! Once you've determined that you have the right length (or a little longer, even) than you need, you can thread your needle and get ready to couch.

Silk buttonhole twist worked really well here. You can use heavier threads, too, like Trebizond, or you can use regular stranded floss - but you'll probably need three strands or more for the color to show up well. Thread your needle and anchor it (either using a waste knot, or running it under threads already there). Bring your needle to the front of your fabric at the point you want your line to begin, and stitch over the first "valley" after the first coil. Then skip a valley, and stitch in the next. Continue stitching in every other valley between the coils until you reach the end of the line. Try to end with a couching stitch.

If you need to snip your gold to fit the line, snip it, then take your couching thread to the back and run it under the stitches on the back to secure it.

This is a very simple technique, and makes a really pretty line of gold, accented by whatever color you choose for a couching thread.

Another tip: though I usually will always wax a regular couching thread when I'm working with pearl purl, when I'm using the floss as a decoration (as in this technique) I don't wax the thread. The thread just looks better when it isn't waxed!

So, if you're game for goldwork, here's an easy technique to try!

Have fun with it!

Labels: embroidery tips and tricks, goldwork, hand embroidery information, Hand embroidery stitches, silk

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Monday, December 01, 2008

A Wee Bit of Christmas Embroidery Accomplished

Beats me how the weekend can possibly go by so fast! But I did manage some embroidery this weekend, and I learned a little bit in the process. So ... here goes....

Here's the extent of my hand embroidery endeavors this weekend. I know it's not that impressive! But still....

Hand Embroidery Projects for Christmas, 2008

Hand Embroidery Projects for Christmas, 2008

I managed the embroidered elements of two cards, plus the beginnings of a third, and I put in the rest of the berries and one pine cone on that blasted towel!

Cards first....

Hand Embroidery Projects for Christmas, 2008

This card pattern comes from Erica Fortgens' book, Merry Christmas Embroidery on Paper - that's an Amazon link, if you want to read more about it. The design stitched up pretty quickly. In fact, it stitched up really quickly - the whole thing took less than an hour, including piercing the paper. I have some other ideas for this design. I think it would make a great snowflake, on blue, worked in white or pale silver, with tiny crystals attached. So I may try that later on. I'm going to cut this in a more interesting way, add a few little red crystals to it, put it on a printed background and affix it to a card, with a little ribbon at the top. Whatever... eventually, I'll show you what I mean!

Hand Embroidery Projects for Christmas, 2008

This little heart-wreath-thingy took less than an hour as well, including piercing the paper. I used the wrong sized piercing tool for the thread. I should have used an extra-fine tip, but I used the medium one. Still, it'll pass muster, I suppose, once incorporated on a card with other distracting stuff attached! I'll add some little red crystals in the middle of the open red spaces.

Hand Embroidery Projects for Christmas, 2008

This one's in progress. It's a wreath, so there'll be some greenery between the red balls. And of course, some little crystals in there, too. I like sparkly things on Christmas stuff! I can't help it!!! This card is a little more complicated. I estimate it'll take a little longer to stitch - so, all told, maybe an hour and a half.

Something I learned about embroidering on paper, or at least, about this type of embroidery on paper. It helps TREEEE MENDOUSLY to have the correct materials. All the Erica Fortgens books recommend Anchor Alpaca (edit: it's Anchor Alcazar - sorry!) for the most part, which is a machine embroidery thread. Since I didn't have any, in the past I've just used regular rayon embroidery floss. It works ok, in very short strands, and it gives a very pretty coverage. But it does get frustrating to work with! First of all, you have to work with short pieces; otherwise, the embroidery floss frays, and that's a pain in the neck. Another thing is the nature of rayon embroidery floss - it's cranky!

Well, finally I figured that it doesn't actually have to be Anchor machine embroidery thread! Machine embroidery thread in general works great on these paper projects because it is supple, it stands up to abuse, it's fine, and, depending on the type you get, it's very pretty and shiny stuff, perfect for Christmas cards. You can also get it in metallics, which are much easier to use on paper than regular metallic embroidery floss. MUCH EASIER. I couldn't believe the difference.

Anyway, I found I could stitch a lot faster with the right materials, once I took out a few spools of machine embroidery thread.

Sheeesh. I was a bit slow on that discovery, wasn't I??

I'll talk about the towel later - I'll show you that pine cone up close. I really don't want to talk about the towel right now. Aaargh!!

Finally, it's December, so I will have my monthly stash give-away coming up this week. It's a rather special give-away. Not quite the same type of loot as before, but ... loot, nonetheless! Some people will be excited about it, but I realize there will be some who say... "?!?" It won't interest every stitcher, I'm afraid.... !!! Yes, yes, enough enigmatic talk. Wait for it!

Hope your Monday is terrific!

Labels: Christmas, embroider on paper, hand embroidered cards, hand embroidery information, supplies, threads

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Saturday, October 18, 2008

Flat Silk and Twisted Silk from Flat Silk...

You know by now that I've got this problem I call Fiber Infatuation. I'm a thread-a-holic, and I love anything that has to do with embroidery threads. It's rather a sickness, as I end up with a glut of threads that I rarely use. Sometimes, I just organize them and separate them for the fun of it. Weird, I know. I'm afraid I might be the Silas Marner of the Thread World...

You Can Twist Flat Silk and Embroider With It!

Yesterday, Carol-Anne of Threads Across the Web posted a magnificent article on using flat silk. She shows us what the Japanese flat silk looks like in its original state, and then doubled thicker. And then - oh, wonderful! - she shows us how the Japanese silk looks when you twist it with different numbers of strands.

She's got the silk all lined up there, so we can enlarge the photo and look at the different threads created from the original flat silk.

Then, she takes the whole post further, by showing us what the twisted threads look like when stitched.

As I commented on her post, I'm going to suffer from Thread Distraction until I can play with some Japanese silk and make up some of that glorious twisted thread to stitch with. I'm just twitterpated with the whole idea!

Types of Flat Silk and Where to Find It

I buy my Japanese flat silk from the Japanese Embroidery Center in Atlanta, Georgia. They have a nice website and online shop that you should visit if you're interested in these threads. You can also find handmade needles there, and different types of Japanese golds.

Besides Japanese flat silk, I've worked with Eterna, which is a Chinese flat silk with a little (barely noticeable) twist to it. I don't know if you could twist it like you do with the Japanese flat silk, but I'm keen to try. I've also worked with Helen Stevens's silk - which is the same as Piper's silk - and with Soie Ovale by Au Ver a Soie (the flat silk that I used on the wool on the Agnus Dei project). Additionally, I've used Kreinik's soie platte, which is very similar to the Au Ver a Soie flat silk. Overall, so far, I like the Soie Ovale best, because it seems to have more body.

But... with this new information from Carol-Anne, you can bet your little boots I'm going to play with the Japanese silk and try to come up with a nice twist to stitch with.

Strangely enough, when looking up close at some old ecclesiastical pieces, I've noticed that sometimes, there are threads that look just like a softly twisted flat silk. I can't help wondering if perhaps the same technique was used. I can't wait to play and find out!

I'll be sure to let you know how my efforts pan out.

Progress on Silk and Goldwork Christmas Ornament

Other news: I did, in fact, get the green shading done on my Christmas ornament. For those of you who expressed an opinion on the direction of the ornament, thank you! I'm taking it all into consideration!

But - WOE IS ME - you know what I did? I started couching on some pearl purl, and in snipping a piece of it, I cut straight into one of the satin stitched red diamonds. I just grazed about three threads with the very tippiest tip of my goldwork scissors. How forlorn was I, I cannot begin to say!! Tomorrow, I'll give you a few photos of the green shading with the beginning of the goldwork, along with a view of the snipping tragedy, and I'll tell you what the remedy is in a situation like that!

Enjoy your weekend!

Labels: embroidery resources, goldwork, hand embroidery information, needlework websites, silk

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