Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, September 12, 2009
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Castelo Branco is a city in Portugal just north of the Spanish border in central Portugal. Like many cities and regions in Europe, Castelo Branco has its own unique style of embroidery. Méri recently introduced me to this type of needlework when she sent me a beautiful magazine dedicated to the embroidery of Castelo Branco and featuring many gorgeous projects. Take a look!

The embroidery of Castelo Branco brings one word to mind - it is rich. It is rich in color, design, and symbolism.



This traditional Portuguese embroidery is worked on a linen ground, traditionally with silk threads. The predominant filling technique used is Ponto Castelo Branco, or Ponto Frouxo - long satin stitches with a perpendicular thread couched over the satin stitching to secure it. The technique reminds me very much of Italian stitching, which is comprised of long silk satin stitches couched over with gold passing thread (I used this technique for the sky in my Agnus Dei project). The obvious difference is the type of thread used for couching.



Among the other stitches used in the embroidery of Castelo Branco, you'll find satin stitch, stem stitch, long and short stitch shading, chain stitch, French knot, detached chain stitch, fern stitch, fly and feather stitch, shadow stitch, herringbone stitch, straight stitch, and various fillings. Méri was very kind to translate the stitches for me! The magazine, Belas Ideias, published by tuttirév, includes not only an abundance of designs but also a pictorial stitch dictionary.



The embroidery is by no means "popular" or common embroidery - it was worked, in its day, for those who could afford to pay for it.



It seems the most wide-spread application was in decorating bed coverings, which were often part of the trousseau or dowry of a young bride. Today, the embroidery of Castelo Branco can still be purchased or commissioned, with prices ranging all the way up to 45,000 Euros for a bedspread, depending on size and design.



Have you noticed that the designs are somewhat reminiscent of Jacobean embroidery? The tree of life is a common image, as are fanciful birds, animals, flowers, vines and tendrils, and fruit.



The elements included range from the sacred to the profane, and many of them have symbolic meaning.

I think this embroidery style is lovely! While it is like Jacobean in some respects, in other respects it is quite unique - the abundance of couched-over satin stitching is defintely different, and the threads used are a flat, lightly twisted silk (originally, a filament silk - today, artificial silks are also widely used).

The designs in the magazine are calling my name!! (They're practically screaming, actually!) Méri often teases me for introducing her to embroidery she "must" try (like the Schwalm project!), but I think she has avenged herself! I've added this to my perpetually growing List of Things to Do, and I'm already looking ahead for my next block of time, where I can set up a small project. There's an ideal "little" project in the magazine, which would make a perfect Christmas gift.

Thank you SO much, Méri, for introducing me to the embroidery of Castelo Branco! The book is beautiful! Thanks, as well, for the linens and threads! I will make use them all soon and keep you posted on how it goes!

Labels: Jacobean embroidery, linen, needlework pictures, pictures, regional embroidery techniques, silk

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, September 01, 2009
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Here's a little give-away that spans a few historical styles of needlework. It's not a huge, multi-item give-away, but in itself, it's rather meaty. We've got 17th century embroidery, 18th - 19th century Quaker-style sampler needlework, and finally, surface embroidery from the 19th / early 20th century - all in one give-away!. Hey, what more could you want??! (Rhetorical question!)

I thought it would be fun to group together some embroidery items by era and style and give them away to someone interested in all kinds of embroidery! And, if you're only interested in one thing represented here, I suppose the rest would make good gifts to other needleworking friends.



It's an odd mix of needlework-related goods, actually...



First, representing the 17th century, I've selected four blank cards from the Plimoth Plantation Jacket notecards. These are nice cards, printed on quality paper, and featuring up-close photos of motifs embroidered on the Plimoth Jacket. The four cards each feature a different motif, so you'll probably have a hard time deciding which to keep and which to give away! They'd make great birthday cards, thank you notes, or what-have-you for anyone interested in textiles. You can view the designs on all the cards on Thistle Threads. 10% of each purchase of the box of cards goes to the support of the Jacket Project.



Representing the late 18th and early 19th centuries, in the style of Quaker samplers, here's the Ackworth school memory book. This is a nifty little book where you can record your stitching. It has a zipper pocket in it, and various sleeves and pages for affixing stitch samples and so forth, as well as areas for writing commentary, some card threadwinders to cut out and use, some postcards that can be cut out and sent through the mail, and even little stitch diagrams for Quaker motifs. Neat little book! You can see inside the memory book on Needleprint, which is the publisher of the book. I happened upon a special on these not a year ago, so I picked a couple up, thinking they'd make good gifts.



And, moving into the late 19th and early 20th centuries, we've got a pre-printed vintage linen (in fairly good shape). These are from the box of linens and threads I wrote about the other day.



And two skeins of M. Heminway & Sons silk. If you've been itching to see this silk up close, here's your opportunity to get your hands on some!



The skeins are in fairly good shape - still braided with tags - but you can see that the pink is having a bad hair day. Still, it's usable, and it's beautiful!

Needlework Giveaway Participation Guidelines

To participate in the giveaway, please leave a comment below this post on the website. If you're reading this in your feedreader or in the e-mail newsletter, just click on the title of the article, and that will take you straight to the website!

In your comment, please leave a name. If you comment annonymously, please make sure you sign a name inside the comment box before you submit it!

In your comment, please answer the following question:

What's your favorite style and / or era of embroidery and why?

I'll draw for a winner on August 14th at the end o' the day, and I'll let you know on the 15th who won. The winner will then need to contact me with a postal address. If for some reason contact isn't made, I'll re-draw for a new winner.

Thanks for participating!

Labels: Book Give-Away, historical needlework, linen, pictures, stash contest, threads

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, August 10, 2009
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The other day, I showed you that magnificent box of M. Heminway & Sons silk - a goodly collection of vintage silks from the turn of the 20th century. The more I think about this treasure, the more excited I am about it! Here, I'd like to show you some of the linens that were in the box...

These linens are certainly "vintage" - they're downright antiques. Some are embroidered in part, some are not. Some are in fairly good shape and might be salvageable, but some probably can't be salvaged. Below, you'll see some photos of only some of the linens, actually - there are more than pictured here, but this is a good selection of the types of linens in the box.

Many of the pieces are of the same weight fabric - a light, fine linen with a smooth "hand" (or surface feel), but others are coarser linen and one even looks like a cotton sateen, the type of fabric used for Mountmellic embroidery. And there are different types of designs on some of the linens - especially on the coarser ones. These, I don't think, were necessarily used for "Society silk" styled embroidery, but for other projects - maybe just practice?

Let's take a look - and if you have any insights, do feel free to share them!



This is rather a fine weight linen, with a leafy design printed on it. Embroidery was begun on one corner.



The embroidery for the filled areas is worked in a shading technique - long and short stitch - and the stems are worked in stem stitch. Isn't the sheen of the silk just beautiful?!?



This is a piece of rather coarse linen. You can see that it is pretty well stained and marked with age. I suspect that the embroiderer actually put the pattern on herself, via a prick-and-pounce method of transfer. The pounce must have been either damp or actually an ink of sorts. In old books, especially books on ecclesiastical embroidery, there are some "recipes" for ink that is applied in a way similar to the prick-and-pounce powder method method, and I think that's what this is. Why do I assume she didn't buy the piece with the design already on it? Read on, and I'll get to that point further down...



This is another piece of linen that's relatively coarse, but not as coarse as the linen in the previous photo. The design on this one looks preprinted, and the embroidery was begun in a heavier silk (called "rope" - there's a good bundle of this silk in the box).



The embroiderer was stitching the edges of the leaves in buttonhole stitch.



This is another piece of finer linen - very thin stuff. I suspect that the piece came with the drawn thread areas already done, and with the embroidery design printed on it. This was obviously a set, because there are a couple more pieces in the box, just like this, with different embroidery designs around the drawn thread area.



You can see a close-up on the drawn thread area here. Though it is visually interesting over all, the drawn thread design is not worked very neatly. The tips of the ovals are jammed with threads. Still, the inside parts of the ovals are really incredible - teeny tiny detail work here.



You can see the graduated shades in the stitching here, and the luster of the silk.



This piece is from the same set, but instead of flowers, the design around the outside features pomegranates.



This is the same design as the first coarse linen up above, and the fabric looks to me more like a cotton sateen - it's shiny, and the weave looks like a sateen. Hence, my reasoning for thinking she transferred these two designs herself, because they are on completely different types of fabric, and though the designs are the same, they have a few "blotches" in different places. It's a neat design - it has the look of some of the flowers you'll find in William Morris's textile designs.



Here's another piece of fine linen, with a design typical of "Society silk" or Silk Art Embroidery. There's a larger doily, with several small ones - sort of like coasters. The design is preprinted in blue.



The small circles have different designs around them - they aren't all exactly the same. I think there were two of one pattern and two of another, but they all "work" together as a matching set.



Here's another set of small doilies. The edges of these could be worked in a buttonhole or a satin stitch, then the rest of the fabric could be cut away.



The strange thing about this set is that it looks as if someone went back over the design with pencil, either to darken it up, or to put in guides for stitching. Either that, or perhaps a ghost image was printed on the fabric at the same time. I'm wondering about spot removal on some of these - I wouldn't want to remove the design, but I'd like to get rid of some of the spots...



This is another pre-printed linen, on a finer weight of linen, but printed in yet a different style when compared to the other linens above.



What I really like about it is the information on the corners - directives for types of stitching and colors, I think.



There's also what looks like a design or pattern number, and a needle still stuck in the fabric.



This piece is perhaps my favorite in the whole box - not just because I think the pattern is very pretty, but also because it is in the best shape. I think it IS salvageable, and it would be worth embroidering in the same style, using the silks from the box. I've put that on my List!

Some of the pieces had some really pretty embroidery on them, though none of it was finished. Some bits of embroidery look like practice pieces, while others were projects underway but never completed. I'll show you some of those a bit later, too!

So what do you think? Worth trying to clean some of these up to stitch? Do you think they'd hold up? I certainly think the patterns are worth tracing on many of them, that's for sure! Some of the designs are very pretty and delicate - others are bold and beautiful. I may have to devote some time to that!

Labels: historical needlework, linen, pictures, vintage embroidery

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, August 08, 2009
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Last week, between the relative chaos of ending another school year, I managed to get out to the studio and set up this ecclesiastical embroidery project. The project is another pall, this time with a different design on it.

The design for this piece of embroidery comes from a book called Designs for Church Embroidery by Thomas Brown & Son. I'm lucky enough to have an old copy of the book - it was a catalog at one time, actually - but it has since been reprinted by Lacis, and you can find it in their online catalog. Just search the title, and it'll come right up.

I altered the original design a bit. It was originally just a circle with the "M" that you see in the middle. I added the tips and the little fleur de lys to it, to make it a bit more decorative.



The Bohin ceramic pencil came in really handy for the transferring of the design. I used the greenish-blue ceramic lead, and it worked quite well. The pencil gives a crisp, fine line. Before I used it, I tested it on a piece of scrap linen, writing with various amounts of pressure on the linen, then trying out the eraser - which worked fine on the light to medium pressure lines - and I also rinsed the fabric, which took out all but a trace of the heavier pressure lines. I was satisfied that it would work ok for white-on-white embroidery.

Ideally, when you're working white-on-white embroidery, it's a good idea to use blue for your transfer. The dressmaker's blue pencils work fine, for example, as does dressmaker's blue carbon, both of which are available in the notions section at most sewing stores. You see, white absorbs the blue, so even if a trace is left on the linen, it isn't normally noticeable, and with time, it goes away. When you use grey or red for a transfer in whitework, the thread will pick up the color and will be tainted grey or red. But with blue, even if the thread picks up the color, you don't see it - it absorbs into the white, making it seem brighter.

I don't really know why this is, but I'm sure there's some sort of scientific reason!

Anyway, I liked the Bohin pencil. I haven't started stitching yet, but I think the transfer will be fine for white-on-white.



Here's the design, transferred. The pall is a 6.25" square piece of linen, made like a pocket, with the top side decorated. I cut the fabric 16" long and 9.5" wide to give plenty of room for seams and for mounting on a stretcher bar frame. The fabric will be folded in half, to make the pocket, then the two sides of the pocket will be sewn up, and a 6.25" square piece of mat board inserted into it. Then the last side is hand stitched closed. Lace of some sort is generally applied to the edge by tacking it on after assembling the piece. I like to use hand-tatted lace, as I think it looks quite nice on a pall. Tacking the lace on allows for removal of the lace for cleaning purposes, in case of need.

One of the most frequent questions I get asked via e-mail is how to transfer an embroidery pattern after it is printed or drawn. I do have a list of links that deals with this question in various ways under the Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery section. For this project, I'm using a light box to trace the design. You can use a sunny window with equally good effect, though it is sometimes a bit harder on the arms if your pattern is complicated and takes time to transfer!

My next step after transferring was the frame up the piece, which I've already done, and then to pick out threads, which I've already done as well. Now, it's just a matter of stitching! I'm going to use #30 coton a broder on this, in white. I think. I'm oscillating between #25 and #30, actually, though I don't think there's that much of a difference between the two sizes to justify hesitation!

This will be the project I'll be stitching on for at least the next week, I figure. I hope to have it done by the end of the upcoming weekend, if all goes well. Once it's done, I have one more to do, too. Although I like doing this kind of work, I have to admit that I don't normally like making two of the same things in a row, so for the second one, I've chosen a design I've done before, but not for a while.

And then, once these two projects are finished, I can move on to something that involves color - and I can't wait to show you what that is! I'll tell you tomorrow!

Coming up this week on Needle 'n Thread: a special give-away. Once you see tomorrow's article, you'll probably be able to guess what the give-away is!

Now that the school year is officially over, I'll be able to devote a little more time to embroidery projects, tutorials for the website (in various forms), and some other projects, all of which I'll be keeping you up to date on!

I hope you've had a great weekend!

Labels: ecclesiastical embroidery, embroidery tips and tricks, linen, needlework pictures, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Sunday, May 31, 2009
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I must reiterate everything I said the other day about the generosity of needleworkers! Yesterday, I was thrilled and speechless when I emptied my mailbox. There, inside, was a package all the way from Portugal, from Méri, of Agulhas da Méri fame. Inside the package - some gorgeous threads and a piece of Portuguese linen, woven at the textile mills of northern Portugal.

I just have to show you pictures of this thread and the fabric. Pictures won't do the linen justice, or the threads, for that matter.



First, the threads. There are two kinds of silk here - one is still on the market and available in Portugal.



It comes in very long skeins, and the thread is beautiful - it's a fine twisted silk, non-divisible. The sheen is hard to capture in a picture...



...but a close up serves to show the nice twist in the thread.

I can't wait to give these threads a try! I haven't seen anything like them here in the States. Buttonhole silk is usually a bit fatter and more tightly twisted. And stranded silk doesn't have this kind of sheen.



Now, these other threads have captivated me! This is a soft, thick, luxurious silk, no longer sold, and Méri estimates that these skeins are from the beginning of the 1900's, as they were passed down through family. They are typical of the embroidery from Castelo Branco in Portugal. They are unbelievable threads!



You can see that the thread has a very soft twist to it. Each strand is rather thick - I'd say at least as thick as a #3 pearl cotton, though not twisted tightly like pearl cotton.



To explain the sheen - and even to photograph it well (for me, anyway!) is almost impossible. How can I get across the idea of the sumptuous "fire" of these threads? They're incredible! I would imagine that they will make beautiful satin stitching, if worked in short lengths. I'm eager as well to try them with long and short stitch and with stem stitch.



And finally, the linen - a beautiful, durable, medium-weight linen with a nice hand, and a good, practically even weave. It looks like it will be a perfect linen for drawn thread work. I also think it would be perfect for crewel work or Jacobean embroidery in wools. It's really nice stuff! Méri said this linen is sold as what we call "seconds" - that is, not suitable for shops or exports, but still available at the source. She buys it by weight. I can't imagine that this is "second quality" linen. It's pretty nice!

Méri, how can I thank you for the wonderful package?! I'll try to do the supplies justice! Thank you so much for your generous gift!

Labels: linen, pictures, regional embroidery techniques, silk, supplies

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, May 22, 2009
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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, March 10, 2009
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I suppose there are a few things I should clarify about the whitework technique embroidery sampler that I've been messing around with! First, though - thanks very much for your responses to my question about fabric.

Many of you could see the decision coming, methinks: I did change the fabric to the darker linen. The deciding factor was the question of photography. I get better pictures on darker fabric, especially when the stitches need to be seen.



You can see that the contrast makes the stitches a lot clearer. In choosing between the two fabrics, I was choosing between this fabric (the darker shade) and a shade lighter than this, but not white. The original fabric I started working on was almost a golden color, but, in close ups and with any kind flash or bright lighting, the fabric tended to wash out, so the stitches were not as noticeable.

I also decreased the size of the whole piece. I think it's 16" x 18" now, which is much easier to work on.

Now, to explain the whole sampler. I'm afraid the term "whitework" only refers to technique. I realize it is not properly "whitework," since it is not done on a white ground fabric (which is usually the case with real "whitework"). The point of the samper for me is to explore different types of whitework techniques, demonstrating "how to" and troubleshooting and whatnot as I go. In the process, I'll work up a few photo tutorials of different techniques for you, like the one on re-weaving the edges in drawn thread work and the one on finishing the edges with satin stitch.

The finished piece isn't meant to "be" anything, other than a sampler. I'm not trying to create a gorgeous work of art or anything, although I do hope it comes out fairly nice! I have no idea what it will look like yet, when finished, but I have blocked out a drawn thread section and a small Ukranian sample, and I've transferred a Schwalm design on the fabric, using Christine Bishop's book, Schwalm Whitework Embroidery (the link will take you to my review of the book).

Besides this sampler, which isn't meant to be my sole occupation for the next however long it takes, I've got plans for other embroidery, too - so don't worry, I won't bore you to death with whitework (I hope!).

In the embroidery arena, I've got some interesting things coming up! I'm eagerly waiting some sample projects that I'll be working on, from some well-known designers. I don't want to whisper anything too loudly right now, but just so you know, in the near future, there are some exciting projects coming out for embroiderers, with the possibility of some new kits becoming available ... and, well. Just a hint: think long and short stitch shading and flowers, and you may just guess who I'm talking about!

And, with my present creepy, crawly, cruddy cold dissipating, my voice is getting somewhat back to normal, so there's a good chance I'll be able to add sound to some videos this week. (Keep your fingers crossed for me!) I just can't do the frog voice on something that is more or less public and permanent!

Coming up, I've got a little photo tutorial on transferring a design using tissue paper (very easy, though somewhat time-consuming). Along with that, look for a photo tutorial on simple hemstitch and a beautiful piece of embroidery from a reader. Also, some thread tips, thanks to Pam and Inspirations, are in this week's line up.

A busy week ahead, but I hope you all enjoyed the weekend, got some stitching done (I managed a wee bit!) and are looking forward to a good week!

Labels: fabric for embroidery, linen, pictures, sampler, Schwalm, website news, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Sunday, February 08, 2009
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I think I may have made a mistake. (Shock! Horror!) This is a fabric mistake, and actually, it's not very surprising. I tend to make mistakes, and I tend to especially make mistakes when I settle for one thing, knowing deep down I should just waaaaaiiiiiit. This is the problem: I received an order of fabric today!

Receiving a fabric order isn't the worst problem in the world. In fact, I was happy to see the package arrive! But it had this fabric in it - this 36 count natural Edinburgh linen, which is exackitackily the color I wanted to work my whitework sampler on.

Now do you see the problem?

Let me show you the difference...



The linen I'm presently using is a 32 count Belfast linen in flax (that's the color). The new linen I recently ordered is 36 count Edinburgh linen in natural. It's the top linen in the photo above.

The natural Edinburgh linen is definitely darker than the flax Belfast linen, and it's the color I had in mind when I set about contemplating the whitework sampler. But, see, I had the Belfast linen. And I didn't know what the difference would be in the two colors - I actually thought the natural would be lighter. But in my head, the color I wanted was the color that arrived this morning!



Now, you may be tempted to ask what the heck? What's the big difference? And, to a degree, you're right. But there are some pros and cons to switching fabrics...

The advantages of switching to the darker fabric:

1. Better photos - it'll be much easier to see the white threads and the patterns they form, etc., on the darker fabric.
2. Higher count and smoother hand - the Edinburgh linen seems to have a smoother hand, and it definitely has a higher count thread, which is good for non-counted, non-drawn-thread whitework techniques, such as regular surface embroidery. The higher the count, the easier (I think) it is to work trailing designs, satin stitching, and so forth.

The disadvantages of switching:

1. OHHHH - it's SWITCHING!!! I probably don't need to explain this one!! I've already made some progress, I'd have to rinse and iron and re-frame the fabric... you know the drill. Argh! We could almost include wasting the other fabric in here, but I don't really consider it a waste, and it isn't that much fabric. UGH! The set-up of a project is not my favorite part, needless to say!

2. The higher thread count also poses a con, when working drawn thread techniques. It's just downright easier to do drawn thread work on a lower count fabric. Also, in the Ukranian drawn thread stuff, I wonder if 36 count might be a wee bit too high? I'll have to contact Yvette on that one....

So ---- HELP!!!

Whadyareckon? What are your thoughts? What should I do?

To switch, or not to switch - that is the question!
Whether 'tis nobler to suffer with discontent of color,
Or to take scissors against this framed-up pale stuff,
And by cutting and unframing, end it?

Labels: drawn thread embroidery, fabric for embroidery, linen, miscellaneous embroidery musings, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, February 05, 2009
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Last weekend, I began a marathon embroidery project on short notice. In about 35hours or so from start to finish (including set-up), I hand embroidered this piece of linen. I probably didn't go about it in the most prudent way in the world, but, regardless, here 'tis...

A maniturgia is a long strip of linen that is wrapped around the hands of a priest during the ordination ceremony. The strip is often embellished - either embroidered or painted - and, after the ceremony, it's given to the priest's mother and normally buried with her.

The strip of linen can be different sizes, but customarily, it's about 3 inches in width and about 5 or 6 feet long. The embellishment is not really essential, but it's nice. At its simplest, the maniturgia can be left blank. But then it just looks like a long strip of linen...

So, after the phone call on Friday night that I already told you about, it came to pass that I undertook to make, in a weekend, a maniturgia. It shouldn't have been any big deal, really - in an hour, I could have cut the strip of linen and folded it, sewn a seam, hemmed the short ends, and called it done. But nooooo. Noooo... I just had to get into my ridiculous head that I Must Embellish. At first, I thought painting would be quicker, but actually, since I'm more familiar with the needle, I settled on embroidering it.

Often, on a maniturgia, what you will see is text - either some sort of Biblical reference, or a snippet from a prayer, or something of the sort. Often, the text is a Marian reference; that is, it refers in some way to the Blessed Virgin Mary, Mother of God. I learned all this, by the way, in the space of about an hour, consulting with people, making phone calls, and having them make phone calls. I didn't know anything about a maniturgia before the fateful phone call Friday night...

I went to bed Friday night with a clear idea of what the maniturgia is and what it looks like, but without any idea of what I would do.

Saturday morning, I started playing with texts. The quickest way to layout any text for embroidery is, without a doubt, by using the computer. Sure, it's nice to pen your own, but when you're pressed for time, All Hail the Computer! I found a font that I liked that had decorative filigree capital letters, and then I took different texts and printed them out, word by word, in letters three inches high.

I had one phrase - Ave Maria - that was two words and would've worked fine.

I had another phrase - can't remember what it was - that was about 14 words long. Um. Yes. I can't believe I even considered it.

Finally, I settled on this phrase: "O clemens, O pia, O dulcis Virgo Maria" - I liked the phrase itself, I liked the amount of coverage on the linen, and I liked the layout of the decorative capital letters.

I should've stuck with "Ave Maria."

Anyway.... first thing I did was space the words correctly, taping together the words as printed out on separate sheets of paper. You know, sometimes it's good to have to work under pressure. I took a lot of short cuts I would not normally take, and learned that some steps in working up a design can absolutely be done away with.

Then, I found, among my collections of ecclesiastical patterns, a decorative cross to go on each end of the phrase. I made photocopies and taped them onto the same sheets of paper the letters were on.

Next, I cut my linen strip 12 inches wide and 60 inches long (well, it was 60" fabric - so I just had to cut a 12 inch strip). I made the strip 12" wide to accommodate a hoop easily. I dampened and ironed the linen, and then I was ready to go.



I marked off the 3.25" inch strip that would be the front of the maniturgia, using a blue dressmaker's pencil. Centering the linen over the center of the text, I pinned the linen to the paper.



You can see that the linen was sheer enough to see the pattern quite well. I used Legacy Linen's Ecclesiastical linen, which is a beautiful, fine linen with a close weave and a super-smooth hand.



This is a blue dressmaker's pencil, which I used to trace the pattern. An electric pencil sharpener comes in handy for quickly achieving a sharp tip on the pencil. It unfortunately tends to waste a bit of the pencil in the process, but time was my biggest concern, so I used the electric sharpener!



After tracing the whole design out onto the linen, I gathered together threads - two shades of gold, two shades of blue - needles, hoop, and the linen strip, and was ready to start stitching! By this time, it was around 4:00 pm on Saturday.



Stitching from left to right, this is what I finished on Saturday night. (That rhymes!)

Whoa. Not Much, in the scheme of things...



The entire piece is worked solely in stem stitch. As it worked out, I didn't use four shades of color - only the darkest blue and the darkest gold, with the exception of the middle of the crosses, where you can see the lighter blue.



On Sunday, I stitched all day, practically.... until midnight! By the time midnight rolled around, I had finished "O clemens, O pia, O dulic Virgo..." and I only had "Maria" and one cross left. I hit the sack!



The last thing I did Sunday night was the gold filigree on the V. It was a lot of fun - I like all those little scrollies...



To start my threads on this project, I used a series of backstitches worked towards the starting point on each part of the motif, away from a knot on the top of the fabric. As I worked back towards the knot, covering up the backstitches, I snipped the knot.

But as I continued towards the last half of the project, and saw that I was running out of time, I elminated as many steps as possible - I started using (gasp, horror!) knots on the back of the fabric!

But I never carried threads from one letter to another - that would have made too obvious of a blue shadow. So, while there were some places I was willing to take shortcuts, there were other places I simply wasn't! I don't like the look of carried threads!



Monday morning, I got up and launched right in to the last word. My family from Florida was going to be in town all day, arriving around 11:00, so I wanted to try to finish the whole thing before noon.

But, no luck. It took so much longer than I thought it would!



I finished embroidering the piece by 5:00 pm on Monday. Here it is, across the couch. It doesn't seem very long, does it?



Even from this angle, it still doesn't seem like much! But gosh. It seemed interminable when I was working on it!



And here it is, on the ironing board, after it's been sewn up.

And, in sequence, here's the finished piece:



"O Clemens"



"O Pia, O dulcis"



"Virgo"



"Maria"



And then I tried a side shot, to show you the gleam of the silk on the linen, but it doesn't look that great. I'm using Soie d'Alger from Au ver a Soie, by the way - it's a spun silk, so it doesn't have as high a sheen as the filament silks. Still, it's nice!

And that was my marathon embroidery project!

I'm needled out....

Labels: ecclesiastical embroidery, linen, needlework pictures, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, December 31, 2008
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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Sunday, December 28, 2008
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I'm still rather elated to have the linen pouch finished. It's been delivered, so that project is completely behind me. I'm going to start on Something (???? so many ideas !!!!) with color in it now. Or perhaps dig out an old project! Whatever the case, my embroidery thread will be COLORED. But, anyway, I still want to show you how the pouch finished up...

After getting all the pieces together - the embroidery was finished, the piece was ironed, the cord, tassel, and button made, and the lining cut - it was time to put the pouch together. Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures at every single step, but I'll do my best to explain it!

First of all, the lining is the same as the outside piece of fabric, so I don't suppose you would actually call it a "lining." It's just two pieces of linen (Alba Maxima by Legacy), the outside piece being embroidered.

I turned the embroidery to the inside of the two pieces, and pinned together the part of the pattern that comprised the flap (where the embroidery is) and the very base of the pattern - but not the actual sides that comprised the bag. At the center point of the flap, underneath the tip of the embroidered cross (so they lined up), I pinned in the cord and tassel and left them between the two layers of fabric.



So right there, you're looking at the back of the embroidery. Notice that the flaps of the pouch have angled corners. That was a last minute decision, but I think it improved the looks of it.



This is the base of the pattern. Think of the pattern as just one looooong rectangle, with the flap at one end - with the embroidery and angled corners - and this straight edge at the other end. I pinned the base together, but didn't sew the whole thing, as I needed a turning hole. So the red line in the photo above represents the turning hole.



I sewed the base together (except the turning hole - and the top flap together (wrong sides facing). Now, refer to the diagram above, and I'll explain what I did next:

I pinched together the outside layer of the bag at the folding line between sections B and C, so that sections B and C of the outside layer were now folded with the right sides of the fabric together for that piece of linen (not the lining) only. Then I did the same with the lining linen, creasing it at the folding line between sections B and C, and putting the right sides of the fabric of the lining face-to-face.

I pinned those carefully, up the point where they met the end of the seam of the flap (section A), which was already sewn together. So the base line of the fabric (where the turning hole is) was now meeting just below the seams on the flap.

Then I sewed up the folded sides, almost to the seam on the flap, but not sewing into it.

Then I turned the whole darn thing inside out through the turning hole, which was no small accomplishment! Next time, larger turning hole!!! In fact, I wonder if the base actually needs to be sewn together at all, until the rest of the seams are sewn up - that's for further experimentation later.



But, it wasn't that much worse for wear after turning.

Then, once turned out, I pressed the seams and pushed the lining down into the bag (which turned it "inside out" again, but only now it was "right side out, going inside.") So the seams on the inside of the bag are completely finished. You don't see any turned-in fabric edges or anything inside the bag.



So there it is, ready to iron out...



...which I did, and then I decided to add a little knotted detail along the inside seam, in Palestrina stitch...



...which I did. I took the stitch horizontally and extended the leg, to overlap the seam. Actually, the way the stitch was worked, it becomes the "knotted pearl stitch," which is exactly the same (in movement) as the Palestrina stitch.



And you can see there the back of the flap on the right side of the picture, and the bag itself on the left side, with the detail of where the seams meet to form the bag, and the decorative stitching.



And that's the seam on the right side of the bag, with the Palestrina stitch.



And now you know which button I picked - the mother of pearl one. I just couldn't see using plastic on this! (Though I liked the stitching on the other button better!)



The finished piece is 10" wide and 8" high.

So that was a fun project, in a way, but a little tense, as I wanted it to be "perfect." It isn't, though. There are definite flaws, which is always good because: 1. it keeps me realistic, as it's a bit humbling, and 2. it marks it as handmade by me! I've never made anything that's "flawless"!!!!

But I'm glad it's finished. Not only am I looking forward to working with color again, but I'm also looking forward to working on something that's not got a pressured deadline on it. After I rumage around a bit, I'll let you know what I came up with!

Labels: ecclesiastical embroidery, linen, needlework pictures, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, August 13, 2008
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The hand-embroidered monogram I've been working up on a guest towel is finally finished! The whole point of this "little" project was to work it up as a class sample, so I tracked the statistics on it so I would know how to gauge our class time and our supplies. So here's the finished product, with the final statistics on how long it took to embroidery the piece, how much thread, etc.

Time-wise, it took me about 8 hours and 15 minutes to embroider the monogram. A little bit of that time was taken up in removing stitches (I started with the wrong sized thread, for example, and at another point, I didn't like the shape of some of the petals on the ornamentation, so I took those out, too). The majority of the time was just regular stitching, though. I didn't rush, really, and, looking back on the project now, I think I could've sped it up a bit if there had been any real pressure to get it done faster.



After I finished the embroidery, I filled a glass bowl with cool water and rinsed the piece. I let it soak about 10 minutes, and then smoothed it onto a towel to dry.

Before it was completely dry (still a little damp), I ironed it, wrong side up, on several layers of flannel covered with a pillow case. It's important, especially with any raised embroidery like this, to place the piece on something well-padded when you iron, in order to avoid crushing the stitches.

Now, keep in mind that, as a guest towel, it is reasonable that this thing will have to be washed. So I didn't treat it with any kind of ginger care or anything. I treated it like a household linen that would go through a regular washing and ironing process! The only exception is padding the surface of the ironing board really well, and ironing on the wrong side of the work.

After it was all ironed and ready to show off, I took it outside to photograph it, since the light was pretty good!



And there's the completed piece. I do like the natural colored linen. I was thinking I might touch up that drawn thread edge with white stitching, just to set it off, but perhaps not. It might look too "accented," if you know what I mean! What do you think?



And here's a close up.

Overall, I'm pleased with the way it turned out. It's always a good thing to work through a project that you're going to be teaching, so that you can know what points will need careful instruction and so forth. So I'm glad I managed to work up the whole sample. It isn't perfect, which is good - so I know the pitfalls when I teach the monogram!

By the way, I used about 35 strands of #20 coton a broder, and the strands were about 14" long, so about 13.6 yards of thread (I think that's about half a skein, maybe...)

Now, I'm off to prepare for my Monday morning class, which is the youngest group of children. I spent days and days last week (it seemed like years and years) tracing designs on towels, ironing, separating threads, and on and on. And here it is, Monday morning, and guess what? I'm not ready! Aaaack!

I'll be showing you some other samples and classwork along the way. Hope you enjoyed the monogram!

You can follow this project step by step with the following links:

Part I - Setting up, transferring design, discussion of supplies, and beginning the stitching.

Part II - Continuing the stitching, discussion on working padded satin stitch, stitches used, and some trouble-shooting.

Part III - Discussing taking the curves with satin stitch: how to work around the tight curves in a monogram, stitch direction, and so forth.

Labels: linen, monograms, needlework pictures, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, June 23, 2008
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Continuing on the the embroidered monogram on a linen guest towel, today I want to show you how to manuever around curves with padded satin stitch. If you haven't read the articles yet on the guest towel, you might want to check out the first article on setting up the guest towel and the second article with an update on the stitching.

These are photos of the curves on the "B" monogram. Satin stitch takes curves - even tight curves - well, if you keep in mind the concept of "fanning" your stitches. I want to show you two things in this post: 1. the pictures without any markings, so you can see the stitches; and 2. the pictures of the embroidery with lines showing the change in direction on the stitching.



Here's the curly-que tail on the back of the "B."



Here's the base of the back of the "B."



Here's the tight loop on the inside of the front of the "B."



And the inside of the front of the "B," from a different angle.



And this is the curl at the top of the front of the "B."

The curly-que on the back tail of the "B" and the inside loop on the front of the "B" are the tightest curves. The principles are the same, whether you're working on a tight curve or a gradual curve, so we're going to look at the tight curves, since they are usually the more difficult to work around!



When you're working around a curve - whether tight or gradual - your stitch direction changes. You want to ease your way around the curve, but in tight spots, that easing has to be done a little more dramatically!

So as you work around a curve, you fan your stitches. The stitches on the inside of the curve need to be a lot closer than the stitches on the outside. But the trick is to not overlap the stitches, no matter how close they are on the inside; otherwise you'll lose the smooth effect of the satin stitching.



This photo shows a bit better the dramatic change in direction. The outside of the curve (especially when working a padded satin stitch, as the padding helps hide the fabric underneath) can even be spaced a bit further apart than normal, in order to compensate as you work around the tighter curve. However, if you aren't padding your stitches, you'll want to make sure there is complete coverage of the ground fabric.

The trick to making tight loops look good is keeping your stitches as close as possible on the inside of the loop, without allowing them to overlap, and spacing them "just far enough apart" on the outside to allow them to fan properly and to get your stitches going in the direction you want them to go!

Satin stitching on a curve is not hard - it just takes practice. One thing that might help is trying your stitches from different directions. Try coming up on the inside and going down on the outside of the loop. If this doesn't work well for you, turn it around - go up on the outside and down on the inside. Stick with what works best for you. I bring my needle to the front of the fabric on the inside of the loop and take it down on the outside, because I think it's easier to see exactly the stitch direction.

Another helpful trick, if you're not padding your satin stitches, is to mark your stitch directions in pencil inside the lines. This will help guide you around the curve. If you are padding your satin stitches, you could use a contrasting color of thread - just regular sewing thread works! - and baste in some directional lines that can be pulled out when you're finished with the curve.

Ok, I'm going to finish this project today, so I'll post photos of the completed monogrammed towel, washed and pressed and ready for display as a class sample, soon!

If you're taking up a monogramming project, feel free to send me a photo! I'd love to see other people's work!

This project is in four articles, besides this article. You can find the other parts of the project through the following links:

Part I: setting up the project, transferring the design, discussion of threads

Part II: stitching, information on padded satin stitch and other stitches employed, some trouble shooting.

Part III: that's this article!

Part IV: The finished guest towel!

Labels: embroidery tips and tricks, linen, monograms, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, June 20, 2008
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Here's a sample I'm working up for my adult embroidery class, which is also looming - it starts a week from Tuesday, and I have two more samples to work up for it. At the same time, I am setting up a Big Project that needs to be finished before the end of July! So things are hopping here!

This is an embroidered guest towel. It's an oatmeal-colored linen-cotton blend with a drawn thread edge, from All About Blanks. You'll notice the note on the page there - to pre-wash before embroidering. These do shrink quite a bit, but I still like them, and I like them smaller!

I wanted an oatmeal colored towel to monogram in white for two reasons: I love the look of the white on natural-colored linens (I think it's pretty!), and I think, when it's the first time monogramming something, it's easier to work on a color with white than to work white-on-white. The fabric has been really easy to stitch on, but it's not crisp like a 100% linen fabric would be. It's soft, and it does have a bit of a fuzz to it - I like it a lot, and I think one of the reasons is the softness and the fuzz and the ease of stitching on it (or is that three reasons?).

I started by ironing the towel after laundering it and drying it. I folded the towel in half, long ways, to mark the center.



Then I unfolded it, but I noticed that the crease would probably cause difficulties placing the monogram!



I like the wide drawn thread hemstitching there, don't you? Anyway, I pressed the crease out lightly - just enough to still see where it was!



For the first time ever, I am using iron-on transfers. I don't think I've ever actually used one myself, though I've seen lots of people use them and I know lots of people like them. I figured it would be a huge time-saver for me, to have a good selection of iron-on transfers on hand, instead of our having to hand-transfer all the designs, which takes up a whole class period in itself!

So I centered the initial - I'm using a "B" - and followed the pressing directions.



And that's what I got. It's there, more or less - there's some kind of streaky thing going on there, but that's ok. That's the fastest I've ever put a design on a peice of fabric. I was elated!



But I found the blank streaks a bit distressing.



So I took a fine-tipped Micron art pen and drew in the missing lines. No big deal!



I hooped it up. I use Hardwick Manor hoops, made in Germany. They're an excellent embroidery hoop - very firm, very stable-feeling, and the hardware on them is solid brass and very sturdy, so you can use a screw driver and really tighten the hoop. They hold fabric quite well, and even better if you bind the inside ring, which I didn't on this hoop!

I hooped right over the drawn thread hemstitching - the towel is sturdy, and I'm not worried about damaging it. I don't keep my work on the hoop when I'm finished stitching for the day (always take your work off the hoop when you're finished for the day!), so I am pretty confident that this will be just fine!

It's nice to work on a hoop for a change. I usually have my work set up on a frame (stretcher bars, generally), which I clamp in my floor stand (I have the greatest floor stand ever!). But now and then, I think it's really nice to be able to sit on the couch or even at the table visiting, without dragging out my floor stand or a larger frame.



So, the fabric ready, it's time to pick out threads. Ahhh. I love Lacis (Incidentally, they now have free shipping). Here's my box of coton a broder and white floche. I have several skeins of each size, from 16 up to 40.



I originally thought that size 40 would be the way to go. So I began stitching with it, but it really got lost in the towel fabric. I wanted something that would sit up on the fabric!



Soooo... I split it in half, and tried size 20 instead, which I found to be just right. I want the monogram to sit up off the fabric, and there are a couple ways you can achieve this with monograming. One is to use a technique called trailing, where you satin stitch over bunched string. Whenever you need to narrow your design, you sink one or more of the strings in your bunch to the back of your fabric. But trailing is a technique you have to get a feel for - you want to sink your threads so that the change in size is gradual and smooth.

Since this is for more or less a beginner's class, and since the design itself doesn't really come to a tip anywhere (trailing is great for lettering that comes to a tip), I'm sticking with outlining, padding, and then satin stitching.

For the outline, I'm using backstitch. You can also use split stitch to outline under satin stitch. It doesn't really matter which one you use, except I kind of think split stitch might create a smoother line. In any case, I used backstitch.



After backstitching the outline, a worked the padding in long straight stitches, occasionally splitting them to fit a thread in, working down the length of the letter. My satin stitching will be worked on top of this, perpendicular to the padding.



Wow! All those pictures, just to show you an inch of real work! So there's the beginning of the "B."

Quick overview:

Ground fabric: Oatmean colored linen / cotton blend guest towel from All About Blanks.
Thread: DMC Coton a Broder #20, cut in 14" lengths
Needle size: #8 crewel
Stitch: Padded Satin
Stitching Time to this Point: 30 minutes
Thread: 3 14" inch lengths

So that's the beginning of my monogrammed guest towel sample. I'll show you an update soon!

By the way, any good recommendations for iron-on transfer books? I've found a few I really like, but I'd love to hear of others!

This project was written up in four separate articles. If you'd like to view the progress of the project, please follow the links below:

Part I - (That's this article!)

Part II - Continuing stitching, discussion of stitches, some trouble-shooting

Part III - Taking the Curves with Satin Stitch - discussion of stitch direction and working around curves using the padded satin stitch

Part IV - the finished guest towel!

Labels: Embroidery for the Home, Embroidery Projects, gift ideas, linen, monograms, needlework pictures, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, June 14, 2008
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I do love digging through old pieces of linen that I've got here and there in boxes or drawers. I think this piece is particularly pretty, but it needs some serious clean up work. It's a nice center piece for a table, or, on a small round table, could cover it completely.

I'll be testing a new cleaner on this piece - I purchased a product called Restoration, which is supposed to restore vintage linens (or new ones, too, I guess) that are beset with stains, age discoloration, fold lines, etc. I can't wait to give it a try! If you've every seen the website, Cynthia's Linen Room, you'll find she recommends it highly in her tips on laundering antique linens.

In any case, on this piece, you'll see some nice, simple whitework and a very well done crocheted lace edge on a round linen accent piece.



This is the whole piece. It is stained from age and has definite fold lines on it. The embroidery on it is not super fancy, but I think it's ok. By far the prettiest part of the piece, in my mind, is the crocheted edge.



I like the pattern - the way it criss-crosses, and the little picots on the edge of the scallops.



Here's a close up on some of the embroidery. There's a scallop design that circles the piece, and then two repeated motifs that alternate with each other around the piece.



This motif cuts in three times around the piece, into the center. It's kind of a strange pattern - a sort of little off-set scalloped cut into the center, with those two half-moon things and some vines. I love the use of the seeding in the background.



Here's another close-up on the crochet. I have no idea what the little string is that runs through the crocheted squares. It runs about half-way around the whole piece. Any idea?

If you have any vintage linens or stained linens, how do you clean them? I'd be interested to hear. I'll let you know how the Restoration stuff works - I have high hopes for it!

Labels: linen, needlework care, needlework pictures, pictures, vintage embroidery, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, June 10, 2008
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Perhaps instead of "old linens," I should use the term "vintage," which has a much better ring to it! What about working your own hand embroidery on vintage linens? Do you think it's a good idea, or would it be a waste of time, since they're already... um... "old"?

I was considering the question of doing some hand embroidery - specifically, whitework - on vintage linens because I had the opportunity to acquire a couple vintage pieces that I liked.

One piece is a table runner or dresser scarf with a hand-crocheted edge all around it, and a very elaborate crocheted design with tassels on each end.



The crocheted edge needs to be pressed and re-situated, but you can see that it's a rather complex edging which could propose a problem for the embroiderer: I wouldn't want to mar the crochet with a hoop or snag it or anything like that! So that could be an "in-hand" job, if necessary.



The edging all around the linen is very pretty, and a bit simpler. I love the picot at the tip of each scallop.

The other is a buffet cloth - long and narrow, scalloped on three sides, with a straight edge that would run along the back of a buffet. The scallops are finished in an overcast stitch, and then a crocheted edge is added for a nice finish.



The linen on the piece is exceptional - a smooth hand, and a crisp finish. It's so nice! It's not slubby at all. It reminds me of Legacy's Ecclesiastical Linen - a perfect weight for whitework.



The edge is nicely done. The only flaw in the piece is a tiny whole at one point on the linen. I was thinking that, if I did do some whitework on this piece, I could use a pattern with eyelets and get rid of the hole by turning it into one!

These were offered as vintage linens from a reputable seller, and you can tell they aren't new, but I don't know enough about vintage textiles to approximate when they were made - they're not that old, anyway. The sheen of both is nice, but the second piece is certainly finer linen. It's a brighter white, while the first piece is slightly ecru and the linen itself is more coarse.

So, that is what I am contemplating - should I or should I not add further embellishment with some whitework on either linen? What do you think? Have you undertaken such a project before? Any tips?

Labels: fabric for embroidery, linen, vintage embroidery, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, April 26, 2008
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