Last week, I mentioned Sampler & Antique Needlework, a very nice needlework magazine published by Hoffman Media. There's another needlework magazine out there called Piecework, published by Interweave Press, and I wanted to bring it to your attention today because of a very nice article in the current issue.

Piecework Magazine calls itself the "leading historical needlework magazine." It's a nice magazine, and it focuses on such a wide variety of needlework interests that almost any needleworker will certainly find something appealling in it during the course of a subscription year.



It isn't a hefty magazine, though. Of all the needlework magazines to which I've subscribed over the years, Piecework is the lightest on content and projects. But their content is certainly quality content, and their subscription rate is very fair in relation to the quantity factor.

Piecework often focuses on a theme of sorts in each issue. In the current issue, "Amazing Lace," the theme is historical lace.



One of the projects featured in the magazine is this beautiful needlelace insert. I was really excited to see this project! You know I've set aside my whitework sampler for a little bit due to other projects that have come up - but I don't want my interest in the sampler to fizzle! I want to finish it! And seeing this piece of needlelace in Piecework rejuvenated my determination to get back to that project as soona s possible.



The project is laid out with step-by-step instructions, so it would be an excellent way for a beginner to try a piece of needlelace. The piece is small enough to be very manageable.

If you're interested in Piecework Magazine, you can check out Interweave's website, where you'll find their "new subscriptions" deal. And while you're visiting their website, take time to browse around a bit. They have some really excellent articles available, such as this one on the wooden spool industry in Maine (PDF), and their current edition of Textile Travels, which focuses on Mexico City and Oaxaca (PDF). I love articles like these! Interweave's website also features a free projects and articles section. Currently, under new projects, they are offering this beautiful little biscornu project (PDF), focusing on punto antico (antique stitch), an Italian drawnthread technique that features geometric embroidery patterns. It's quite pretty! They've also got a bunch of other embroidery projects available, as well as projects in other needlework techniques.

Interweave's website is one that keeps me lingering, especially the Piecework section. So if you're looking for somewhere to browse around for a while, give them a visit!

Labels: historical needlework, needlelace, needlework magazines, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, April 28, 2009
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Here's a little needlelace pattern for you - it's oval (not quite egg shaped, but close enough) and perfect for decorating something Eastery.

It seems there are many names for this kind of lace. I call it needlelace, which is a more general term. In some books, it's also called point lace or reticella, and I've even seen it called needlepoint lace.

Needlelace is worked independent of fabric. In fact, it can be worked over paper, removed from the paper, and then added to fabric. When I venture into needlelace like this, though, I generally work it over my fabric, then cut the fabric behind it in an X shape, then turn the fabric back to the edges before working the final buttonholing or overcasting around the motif, catching the fold of the fabric. Then I cut the excess fabric away.

Still, I have worked it on paper, and it works up fine! The last step when working it on paper is overstitching it to the fabric (buttonhole or overcast on the outside lines) and then cutting away the fabric beneath it.

Mostly, needlelace is worked in conjunction with whitework. That's not to say it has to be worked on a whitework piece - no way! You can make little pieces of lace to decorate anything you want, really!

A very long time ago, I featured a tiny sample of needlelace here on Needle 'n Thread. If you want to see some nicer examples of needlelace, check out Textile Dreams, especially the reticella heart. There's also a very nice needlelace tutorial on Textile Dreams!

An excellent online book on needlelace is Therese Dillmont's Needle-made Laces, which you can find in two PDFs hosted at the On-line Digital Archive of Documents on Weaving and Related Topics (that's a mouthful!) In the first PDF file, you'll find clear step-by-step directions for this type of needlelace. Here are the direct links to the PDFs:

Needle-made Laces, Part I
Needle-made Laces, Part II

This particular design is cleaned up from an old Variety magazine pattern. The original booklet was printed in 1926 by Carmela Testa & Company. If you come across any of these old booklets, they're really nice to have! (But they're not always in the best shape!) Still, snatch them up! They're worth it - a great addition to a needleworker's library. Keep in mind, though, that sometimes these old booklets - though full-up with wonderful little patterns like this - lack clear instruction, especially when compared to today's step-by-step photo books! They assume the stitcher has already achieved a certain level of skill.

Well, without further ado, the egg. Below it, you'll find a link to a PDF version.




Needlelace Egg (PDF)

Enjoy!

Labels: embroidery resources, free embroidery patterns, needlelace, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, April 03, 2009
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I came across a fabulous step-by-step tutorial for making needle lace when I was looking for (of all things) images of the plaited braid stitch. I was about 10 pages into google's images under "plaited braid stitch" - long past the point where plaited braid stitches were showing up! - when my attention was arrested by the image of a most intriguing piece of needle lace.

Needle lace - or "needlepoint lace" (as it is called on the website I was viewing) is lace that is really made by a series of embroidery stitches worked between couched thread outlines of shapes. There are a variety of different styles of needle lace, and a variety of ways of going about setting up the foundation to work the stitches that make the lace.

But one thing most needle laces have in common is the use - in some variety or another - of the buttonhole stitch.

For example, take this tiny sample of needle lace I worked up about a year ago, when I was fiddling with Italian cutwork. The fill stitches in the triangle parts of the center are all buttonhole stitch, as are all the stitches covering the lines and the outline. It's not the most well-executed piece of needle lace in the world, but I recall thinking it was really fun to do at the time!

Anyway, to get to the link!

So there I was, looking for images of plaited braid stitch, when I came across a picture, which led me to this website:



The fact that the photo I came across (featured there on the website image above) was needle lace was the first thing that arrested my attention. When I clicked on the photo and enlarged it, without knowing at all where it came from, I was furthered intrigued by it because it looked like....

What?

What does it look like to you?

Well, childhood memories came into play here. It looked to me like a pile of "helicopters." Did you call them "helicopters"? Those seed pod things with the wings, that circled around and around as they fell? We called them helicopters, and I said to myself when I saw the needlelace, "Oh. Helicopters."

Guess what? I went to the source of the photo, a website called Textile Dreams - Fibery Wake-up, and found an excellent tutorial on making needle lace, from beginning to end - making the pattern, setting up, laying the foundations threads (with hints and tips along the way), filling the sections with different lace stitches, finishing the edges, and removing the piece from the pattern. An excellent, thorough tutorial! And I was really excited! Someone went to a lot of trouble to put that together, and it's really well done!

The other thing that excited me - silly as it may sound - is that I was right!



They were helicopters!

If you you'd like to see a great tutorial on making needlepoint lace, do stop in and check out the nine steps posted on Textile Dreams! I think you'll enjoy the thorough tutorial! I know I did.

Don't forget, by the way, to sign up for my January stash give-away if you're interested in a chance to receive a really nice book and collection of new threads. To enter the drawing, read the original post, follow the directions, and leave a comment on the original post before Wednesday morning, February 4th.

Have a great Sunday!

Labels: embroidery links, embroidery resources, needlelace, needlework websites, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Sunday, February 01, 2009
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Here's a neat resource for some needlelace, filet lace, and other lace patterns that can be adapted to different types of needlework....

BibliOdyssey recently posted photos from old Lace Modelbuchs (Pattern Books). You'll find some beautiful examples of needlelace patterns, as well as some grid patterns that can be used for filet lace or adapted into cross stitch or needlepoint patterns pretty easily. I like old books like the ones featured here. They're exquisite.

I think I've mentioned before that I'm not a lace maker, though I have delved into different types of needle lace, including filet lace (the real stuff, not the crochet), cutwork (can it properly be called lace? probably not), drawn thread work (again, would you call it lace? perhaps not, though it can sometimes look pretty lacy) and traditional needle lace for inserts to whitework projects and so forth.



My picots stink in that piece. I've improved the technique somewhat since then. It takes some doing, working picots that size with a needle and tiny thread. I think in that piece I was working with size 100 linen thread.



I haven't worked much on my cutwork techniques. But someday, when I go back into whitework (I'm still glutting on color), I'll take it up again.

I like the idea of lace making - and golly, I'd love to learn how to make bobbin lace. Have you seen the bobbin lace at Plimoth Plantation that they're making for The Jacket? It's seriously stunning stuff!

I did sally forth into one bobbin lace venture many years ago. It was after visiting my sister in Washington, DC. We went to one of the Smithsonians (I think it was the National Museum of American History). There, I saw a fantastic example of embroidery - it was worked by sailors of yore, on old sails, with all kinds of fibers from their shirts and clothes and stuff. It was fantastic!

But what caught my eye and completely captivated me was the lady sitting across from the exhibit - an exhibit unto herself - with her lace pillow and some 180 (or some such number) bobbins that she was flipping about, flipping some more, her fingers flying hither and thither, with a twitch of the wrist and swift cross movement of her hands, shifting the bobbins until they looked like they were moving on their own accord across the pillow, inserting pins, and on and on ... all while chatting with people! And there, before her, a delightful pattern of airy lace was forming with practically no effort (so it seemed to me!). I was astounded, captivated - in short, really impressed. I just Had to Learn to Do That.

It so happened that there, or at another museum close by (somewhere along the journey), I was accosted by a beginner's bobbin lace making kit. It beckoned me, and I heeded its call! Ok, so the "pillow" was a kind of styrofoam board thing. But - I was game. I invested.

Yes, so anyway. As I said, I'm no lace maker. But gosh, don't you love the stuff?

I'd like to embroider on net - you know, the fine, sheer netting that bride's veils were made of back in the days before puffs of tulle? Not your typical tulle. No, no, no! The stuff that drapes and hangs beautifully and is ever-so-lovely as it falls about the shoulders limply. I have looked for such netting. I've bought samples from Lacis, from Martha Pullen, and from several other sources that advertise netting for veils. But it's always ... tulle. It's stiff, even after washing the sizing out. I don't want to make a tutu. I want to make a drapey, light, spilling veil! Alas, I haven't found the stuff yet. Or maybe I just don't know what to look for!

But I did buy a book. And some day, I'll find what I'm looking for. And then - look out, world! I will become a Maker of Lace!

Either that, or this will all go the way of the bobbin lace kit.... !

Enjoy the link to BibliOdyssey. He's got a bunch of other resources listed on there, too. If you ever become a maker of lace (or if you are a maker of lace) and come across that mysterious drapey netting, I'd love to hear about it!

Labels: cutwork, embroidery resources, needlelace, needlework pictures, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, September 16, 2008
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The other day, I mentioned an interest in Italian cutwork, needle lace, and reticella, and thought that others interested in the same topic might like this book.

This particular needle lace book is hosted, in PDF format, by the Online Digital Archive of Weaving and Related Topics. The book is in Italian, but if you don't read Italian, it doesn't matter, because there's only a brief introduction and the rest of the book is made up of patterns:



This is the thing, though - even if you aren't interested specifically in needle lace, the patterns are striking, and in looking at them, you might glean some inspiration for whatever type of embroidery or craft you do. I could see these patterns somehow adapted to other types of needlework: blackwork, couching designs, assisi embroidery, whitework even.



When I start looking at patterns like this, I can't help thinking of "all the ways" the same pattern could be adapted to other things!



Unfortunately, I share the common woe of many stitchers: so many ideas, so little time!



And I'm not sure why calligraphy and illumination come to mind when I see this one, but... they do!

Anyway, if you want to browse through a neat book, you'll find Giardinetto novo di punti tagliati et gropposi per exercito e ornamento delle donne, by Matthio Pagano (1550) at University of Arizona's Digital Archives.

Labels: needlelace, online needlework books

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, December 17, 2007
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Needle lace is a general term for - yes - lace made with a needle. There are many different types of needle lace. It seems that each region of Europe, for example, that has a needlework tradition, seems to have their own style of needle lace.

I love needle lace! I especially like the types that adorn linens. Italian cutwork is perhaps my favorite! I thought I'd just share a couple photos of a practice piece of needle lace that I pulled out of my sample binder today when I was cleaning up.

Italian cutwork is a technique that embodies whitework, cutwork, and needle lace techniques. It's worked on linen, and the design that is to become the inset needle lace is created by laying a foundation of threads in the pattern of the design, then cutting carefully away the linen and folding it back, stitching over the folded edge. Then, over the foundation threads that mark out the lace pattern, stitches are worked - usually buttonhole stitch, worked close together. Triangles, arches, and so forth can all be worked in geometric designs within cut out squares or other shapes.

The linen is further embellished with white embroidery. Some pieces of Italian cutwork are extrememly intricate, and really, really beautiful! Reticella, another Italian needle lace, had its origins in cutwork, but the technique for reticella lace eventually migrated to working the lace over threads, completely free of the ground fabric. Italian cutwork makes use of the ground fabric (linen) to anchor the foundation threads of the design (although, technically, you can make the same type of needle lace designs on paper, so that you have a separate piece of lace...)

Ok, enough! If you want to read further about Italian cutwork, I suggest the Priscialla Italian Cutwork book - you can buy it "new" and revamped from Iva Rose Reproductions. If you follow that link, you'll see a preview of the book, with some good photos of Italian cutwork.

Here's a little piece of needle lace I worked up as a sample a couple years ago. I was fiddling with Italian cutwork, and this was one of the little needle lace designs in the book.



The piece is a little short of two inches square. You can see that my picots are not so well done! It took a little practice to get those right! Also, the edge is not complete.



You can see the back here, with the linen cut and folded back. After the edges are stitched over (either with buttonhole or with an overcast stitch), you cut away the excess of the triangles.

So that's a little needle lace sample!

If you want to look further into needle lace online, here are a couple links:

Needle Lace - this has a nice introduction to needle lace, some patterns, pictures and descriptions of stitches.
Needle lace identification - here, you'll find some photos of different types of needle lace. Follow the links to see different types.
Beeton's Book of Needlework - hosted by Project Gutenburg, an excellent book of all kinds of needlework, with pages dedicated to needle lace.
The UK Lace Guild - good general information on needle lace - check the side menu for links to a few different types.
Antique Needlelace - some beautiful samples from the collection of Marla Mallett. You can click on the links for close up images, and the descriptions are good. This is not necessarily "cut work" lace - most samples are needle lace worked on net grounds.
Victoria & Albert - Here, you can type "needle lace" into the search feature, and view their online photos of different types of needle lace. There are some beautiful examples of cutwork & needle lace available - one handkerchief in particular is just stunning!

If you have any other resources on needle lace, feel free to share by leaving a comment! Thanks!

Labels: needlelace, needlework pictures, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, December 11, 2007
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