Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Trish Burr Embroidery Kit Winner!

It's time to announce the winner of Trish Burr's rosebud embroidery kit!

I had a great time reading all the comments on this one - it is really interesting to see what types of pieces appeal to different people, don't you think?

After going through the typical drawing rigmarole, the winner of this kit is....

Judy in Pittsburg! Congratulations, Judy! Please drop me a line with your mailing address, and I'll get that on its way soon!

Thanks, all, for participating. Trish Burr's Embroidery Kits are available on her website, if you're interested in trying them out.

Tomorrow, I hope to have something Schwalm related to show you! In the meantime, have a great Wednesday!

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Friday, September 25, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson 9: Leaf with a Turnover

The Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons here on Needle 'n Thread are drawing to a close! Lesson 9 is the final lesson for the sampler, featuring a shaded leaf with a turned tip.

For those just joining in, you can find the rest of these lessons listed under Long and Short Stitch Lessons in the "Editor's Floss" in the right hand column.

I've really enjoyed putting together this series, but I have to admit, this last lesson is not everything I wanted it to be. My stitching skills seem to be a bit "off" lately, and I feel as if I'm rushing everything I do. Long and short stitch is a technique that shouldn't be rushed. This leaf demonstrates this point really well!

So I'd like to encourage you to play a bit with the shading. You don't have to follow my instructions to the letter. If you've been following along here for the last eight lessons, then you are ready to play a bit with shading, to try to get the effect you want.

All that being said, let's move on to the lesson!

Materials: You'll need your sampler in a hoop or frame, focusing on the center section of the left side of the square, where you'll find element #8, a leaf with a turned-up tip. Small, sharp scissors are a must in all hand embroidery, and you'll probably want a pencil nearby, too, for drawing in your stitch direction lines. For needles, use #9 or #10 crewel, and finally, you will need the following colors of DMC stranded cotton: 469 (dk green); 471 (med. green); 472 (med-lt green); and 613 (pale green).

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Begin by marking in your stitch direction lines. Just as we did with the other leaf lessons, your stitch direction points to the "growth point" on the leaf, towards the base of the leaf (which is at the top of the image) and the stem.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Split stitch only around the sides of the leaf using 613, leaving the turn-over part alone for now. Don't outline any part of the turn-over at all at this point. Then work long and short stitch on the right side of the leaf, using 613. Notice that, at the base of the leaf, by the stem, a larger area is filled in with long and short stitch. I've actually worked two layers of L&S stitches in that area, using 613.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Using 472, fill in a small area of medium-light green at the base of the leaf, working into the layers of color already there. Notice that I haven't taken the medium-light green all the way up the side of the leaf - it fills part of the base, and ends about half way up the side of the leaf.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Switch to the medium green (471), and continue filling the leaf. Work the color into the 472 layer, and up to the center vein. Then moving up the side of the leaf, work a layer of the color into the palest green (613).

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


You can see here how the medium green (471) fills the remaining area at the base of the leaf, near the stem, up to the central vein, and then works into the pale green at the top of the leaf, leaving some space towards the center vein.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Now work the darkest green (469) into that empty space on the right side of the leaf, filling to the center vein of the leaf. Fanning the stitches around to keep your stitch direction consistent, continue filling with the dark green across the base line on the turn-over.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


At this point, I switched back to the medium green (471), and began to fill the left side of the leaf.

Here's where you can play a bit with your shading. If you want, you can mirror the other side of the leaf, keeping the layers of color the same on both sides of the leaf. You could also continue with the darkest green on the left side of the leaf, and then work a layer of medium, then light. Be adventurous!

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


After stitching that much of the medium green on the left side of the leaf, I began to notice that I did not much care for my color placement. However, the only way to overhaul the whole leaf would be to take much of what I had already done out. I decided not to do that.

Still, in looking at the leaf at this point, I could see that there was one spot where I could make a minor adjustment without much effort - the corner area on the right side of the leaf, just under the turn-over. I did not like the drastic change from pale green to dark green, and I didn't like the pale green covering that corner.

What to do?

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


I brought the dark green up, just outside the corner of the turnover, and just beyond the end of the pale green stitching.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Angling my needle very low, so as to slide under the stitches already there, I put it between the stitches there, and drew it through. The needle was almost lying down directly on the fabric - just about horizontal to it - so that the thread would slide into the fabric at a long angle, rather than simply going straight down into the fabric and stitches already there, which would be very noticeable.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


In this way, I took the dark green around the corner below the turnover, on the right side of the leaf. You can't really tell which are the properly done long and short stitches here and which are the "tucked in" stitches in dark green, can you?

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


After that was corrected, I moved back over the left side of the leaf and finished the medium green. (In the photo above, I have the leaf turned, so it actually looks like the right side of the leaf....)

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Next, I switched to 472, and layered in some medium-light green.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Finally, I filled the rest of this side of the leaf with 613, the pale green.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Taking the darkest green (469), I worked a stem stitch vein down the middle of the leaf, and along the right side of the stem. Again, above, my work was turned so that the right side of the leaf is actually in the lower part of the picture.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


I left the stem at that point, to finish it up later. Now, let's turn our attention to the turn-over.

The turn-over is going to be satin stitched, using the medium-light green (472). Begin by split-stitching all around the turn-over. You can also draw in your stitch direction lines if you wish. The stitches are going to span the width of the turn-over, just slightly pointing down towards the leaf, as you can see in the photo above.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


After outlining the turn-over with split stitch, fill in the center with some long straight stitches, going perpendicular to your stitch direction lines. This will serve as a very light padding under the satin stitch, and will help to lift the turn-over up above the rest of the leaf.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Beginning in the center of the turn-over, satin stitch over the split stitch outline, from the center to the right side (towards the leaf).

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Then move back to the center of the turn-over, and satin stitch up to the tip of the turn-over.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


I finished the stem with medium green (471), filling in the remaining area of the stem with stem stitch.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Then, picking up the dark green (469) again, I worked a small straight stitch at theh tip of each of the little points on the sides of the leaf.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


You can see the dark green straight stitch tucked under the points on the left side of the leaf...

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


... and also on the right side of the leaf.

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Congratulations! You've finished the final element on the Long and Short Stitch sampler!

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


This is the finished sampler, as far as the long and short stitch elements are concerned.

If this is a sampler you want to keep, you could stitch around each box in your favorite line stitch, and then fill the center area with your own long and short stitch motif. How about a monogram? The first monogram alphabet on this page would look terrific in long and short stitch!

If you're looking for the rest of the long and short stitch lessons, please check the index for them. They're all listed there!

You can find the PDF for this particular lesson here:

Long and Short Stitch Shading, Lesson 9: Leaf with a Turned Tip

I hope you've enjoyed this series on long and short stitch shading! Now... any suggestions for a new series?!

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Thursday, September 24, 2009

Long & Short Stitch Book Giveaway!

To celebrate the (upcoming) end of the series of Long and Short Stitch Shading lessons, I'm giving away one of Trish Burr's books!

You might be thinking, "But the lessons haven't ended yet, because we haven't seen the final leaf!" And, you know, you would be right in thinking that! The final lesson will be up soon. But I thought we could gear up for it with one give-away, and then follow up with a second give-away once the lesson is posted.

(Do you get the feeling that I think it's worth celebrating the end of this series?!)

Now that you have the basics of long & short stitch shading down and hopefully feel more confident in tackling needlepainting projects, you need a good book with plenty of projects and further (and better) instructions within! Trish Burr's books are just that - full of beautiful projects and excellent instruction.

Bonnie, a very kind reader, sent me a copy of Trish's book, Crewel & Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs, in case I wanted to use it for a give-away. Her timing was absolutely perfect - I received the book just at the beginning of this week, and I'm so happy to be able to pass a copy on to a lucky reader! Thank you, Bonnie!

Crewel & Surface Embroidery Inspirational Floral Designs by Trish Burr


I've posted a thorough review of Trish Burr's Crewel & Surface Embroidery previously, and you're welcome to read it to see what the book is about. I think you'll find it a wonderful and inspirational resource.

To join the give-away, please follow these instructions:

1. Leave a comment on the website at the end of this post. Comments sent via e-mail and left on other posts can't be included, so if you're reading this via the e-mail newsletter, click on the title of the article, which will take you straight to the post on the website, where you can leave your comment.

2. In your comment, please include a name. You may post anonymously if you don't have a Blogger account, but please at least sign your comment so I can announce a winner who has a name.

3. Answer the following question in the post:

When you stitch a design from a book, do you stick rigidly to the author's designs, instructions, color choices, and so forth? Why or why not?

If you haven't ever stitched a design from a book, do you imagine yourself as the type of person to follow rigidly the author's instructions, or would you be the type of person who would branch out and try your own interpretation? Why or why not?

4. The deadline for this give-away is Monday, September 28th at 4:30 am US CST, so leave your comment before then! I'll announce the winner on Monday.

5. The give-away is open to all. Should the winner live in a different country, I will mail the book the least expensive method, and please understand that I cannot be responsible for any difficulties with international mail.

Good luck!

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Thursday, September 10, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson 7: More Complex Leaf

 
It's time for Lesson 7 in the Long and Short Stitch Shading series here on Needle 'n Thread! In this lesson, we'll be working element #6, the leaf in the center right side of the sampler.

If you've just popped in, you can find the rest of these lessons on long and short stitch in the Long and Short Stitch Lesson Index. We're working incrementally through a small sampler in order to practice filling and shading with long and short stitch.

In today's lesson, the leaf that we're working is pointind downwards, and it has some little spikes on its outer edge. We're going to be working from a dark edge to a lighter center. Other than the shape and the direction of the color changes, the concepts are much the same as those used in Lesson 6, where we stitched a simple flat leaf shape. We'll be cutting in a bit of color for shadows on this leaf, but I think you'll find, overall, that this leaf is fairly simple if you've already worked the flat leaf in Lesson 6.

For this lesson, you will need the following colors of DMC stranded cotton: 469 (dk green); 471 (med. green); 472 (med-lt green); 613 (pale green); 3012 (med. olive green) and 814 (burgundy)

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Split stitch the outline of the leaf. To do this, you can use 469 (dk green). I used 613 (pale green) because I was planning different color placement, originally. If you are afraid you won't cover your split stitch line completely, use the dark green because it's the color on the outside of this leaf. If you don't generally have problems with the outside edge, it really won't matter which green you use for the split stitch outline.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Draw in your directional lines and your shade spaces. I'm afraid I made another mess with my pencil lines, so here's a cleaned up version so you can get a better idea of where to sketch in your lines!

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


The dark purple lines are stitch direction and the green spotted lines indicate shade changes.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Beginning with the darkest green (469) and working on the left side of the leaf, stitch in directional lines for the outer edge of the leaf. Fill in between the directional lines with long and short stitch, in the same manner covered in previous lessons.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


As the stitch direction changes, the stitches "fan out" a bit - that is, they are closer together on the inside of the leaf, and slightly farther apart on the outside of the leaf. Notice that there is some tiny space there between the stitches next to the split stitch line. This won't be noticeable at all, because the "fanning" out of these stitches isn't that extreme. If, however, you notice that, in fanning your stitches out so that they lie in the correct direction, there is a noticeable space between your stitches at the split stitch line, take a small stitch over the line (forming a "short stitch") to cover up the split stitch line. Tucking in a little stitch here and there to fill a gap is not only fine, but it's often quite necessary!

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Work long and short stitch in dark green around the outside edge of the leaf, filling it in completely. Your long stitches may be as long as a quarter inch here.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


On some parts of the leaf, where the little spike sticks out, you can take one stitch from the tip of the spike and completely cover the split stitch line with it (it will run in the same direction as the split stitch line, so you'll basically be stitching a straight stitch from the tip of the spike on top of the split stithch line to cover it up.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


After you've finished the dark green all around the left side of the leaf, change your thread to medium green, 471. This will be your second layer of color. Remember to go deep into the first layer as you stitch, and to alter where you start your stitches, so that the starting points don't create a line on the leaf.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Here's the stitch direction again.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


And here's the completed second layer. Once you finish the second layer, switch threads to med-light green (472) and stitch the third shade of color towards the center of the leaf, leaving room for one more shade.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


As you get to the base of the leaf with the third layer, you will probably be running into the center vein. That's ok. In this area, which is slightly crowded, you can take the third layer of color all the way in to the center vein. This is the circled part in the photo above.

On this leaf, you want to keep your central vein area as neat as possible, and you want all your stitches to meet, if possible. Although you will be stitching a vein as you did in Lesson 6, the vein on this leaf is not as thick.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


This is what the leaf should look like after stitching the third shade of green. Now, switch your thread to the palest green 613. This is the color you will use to fill in the center of the leaf.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Notice in the photo above that I "cut in" some small stitches in 613, into the stitches that have already met the center vein at the base of the leaf. This is to lighten up that area, so that the color change does not seem so drastic.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Finish filling the center area with 613, taking your stitches all the way to the vein line in the center of the leaf. Once you've finished filling the center with 613, change your thread again to color 3012. In the very center of the leaf, where 613 meets the vein line, "cut in" some tiny stitches in 3012, to create a shadow along the vein line.

I'm not sure if "cutting in" is a legitimate term. That's what I call it when a few tiny stitches are being added to an area where the color is already stitched in. So, basically, you're splitting stitches that are already there - you don't have any filling space left, so you're just adding these tiny stitches into the stitches already there.

You've pretty much finished the left side of the leaf, so now it's time to move to the right side.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Again, stitch in directional lines with dark green, 469.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Fill in the dark green in long and short stitch on the outside edge, from the tip all the way to the base. Make sure you cover the base split stitch line.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Now, switch to color 471 again, and stitch the next layer of color. When you finish the second layer, it should look something like the leaf in the photo above.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Now, you're going to switch directly to the palest green (613), skipping the light green layer. Fill to the center, with the exception of a small area, as shown in the photo above. Change your thread to medium olive green (3012) and fill in the remaining area.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


You can also "cut in" some tiny stitches of 3012, all the way up the vein line towards the tip, as shown in the photo above.

Once you finish filling in a bit of a shadow next to the vein, take your thread to the base of the leaf, coming up in the center on the vein, and work a long split stitch line along the vein in 3012, to help define the center of the leaf. The "vein" you are now stitching should not extend all the way to the tip.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


For the stem, I split stitched around the edges in 3012, and then satin stitched in the same color all the way down to where the stem meets the leaf. As the stem narrows, the satin stitches become very tiny.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


This is the leaf so far. The stem is a bit too large for the leaf, methinks!

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Now, to make the leaf pop out a bit, I took the burgundy (814), and stitched a tiny straight stitch in burgundy on the inside edge of each spike on the leaf. This may look better in a darker brown, but I used the burgundy since it is on our color list. If you have a darker brown on hand and want to use it instead, feel free to do so!

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Ta-dum! You've finished Lesson 7! Only two more lessons to go!!

If you want to visit the other lessons in this series, go to the Long and Short Stitch Lessons index, where you'll find the whole list of lessons so far, including one with three videos demonstrating long and short stitch.

If you're following along with the lessons so far, you can add your photos to the Needle 'n Thread flickr group if you would like feedback on your progress.

And, finally, here's a PDF version of this lesson, if you'd like to print it out:

Lesson 7: Long and Short Stitch Shading - a More Complex Leaf (PDF)

Enjoy the lesson! Feel free to ask any questions or add comments below!

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Thursday, September 03, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson 6: A Simple Leaf

 
Now that you've had some experience with various shapes and stitch directions in long and short stitch shading, it's time to move on to elements that are used often in needle painting. In this sampler, we look at four elements that are commonly shaded in embroidery - botanical samples. We're going to stitch three types of leaves and a very simple flower. Lesson Six in this series of Long and Short Stitch Shading lessons focuses on a simple leaf shape. It is not the most realistic looking leaf in the world, but with a little shading, it'll end up looking pretty good!

If you are just joining us in these Long & Short Stitch Shading lessons (also known as needle painting, thread painting, silk shading, and so forth), you can find the rest of the lessons in the index in the right column under "Editor's Floss." We've been working through a small sampler of various elements that we're shading with long and short stitch - a technique that sometimes intimidates embroiderers, but that becomes easier and easier once you understand the basic concepts, and - of course! - once you practice the technique a little bit!

So here we go, on to the next element - the simple leaf at the top center of the sampler.

For this lesson, you will need the following materials:

1. The project in a hoop or frame, with element five (the top leaf) centered in the hoop

2. #9 or #10 crewel needles

3. Small, sharp embroidery scissors

4. DMC stranded cotton in the following colors: Greens - 3011 (dark), 3012 (medium), and 3013 (light); and burgundy 814.

For the basic stitching technique for long and short stitch, refer to the long and short stitch videos included in Lesson Two.

All stitching is worked with one strand (from the six) of regular DMC 6-stranded embroidery floss, with the exception of the stem, which is worked in two strands.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


For stitch directions, mark your leaf with a pencil. The purple solid lines in the diagram above illustrate the direction of your stitching, while the dotted lines can be penciled in to mark the areas of color change.

When stitch a natural object like a leaf or flower petal, the stitch direction follows the natural direction of growth. The stitches angle towards the "growth point" of the element. In a leaf, that is the center base of the leaf towards the stem.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Split stitch around the leaf in the lightest green, 3013.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


As we did in the boxes of Lesson Two and the triangles of Lesson Three, stitch in some directional stitches using light green (3013). These stitches will be about a quarter of an inch long, more or less, and will act as "long" stitches. They can extend slightly beyond your first "color area" marked on the leaf. (My pencil markings on the leaf above are a mess - but they'll be covered up, thank goodness!)

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Begin the long and short stitching in the middle of the side of the leaf, and work to the base. Return to the middle and stitch to the tip. I left the base (down by the stem) blank, and filled it in last, after finishing the rest of the leaf. You will see this as the lesson progresses.

Stagger your stitches, long and short, as explained in previous lessons, and do your best to follow the stitch direction lines.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


After stitching one side of the leaf in light green (3013), move to the other side, and stitch the other side in the same manner. When stitching at the tip of the leaf especially, the stitch direction will change drastically in a very little space. Tuck in little hidden stitches as necessary to neatly fill the area, without over-crowding the tip.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


The light green (3013) is complete.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Thread your needle with the medium green (3012), and, beginning in the middle of the side of the leaf, work the next layer of long and short stitches down to the base, and then go back to the center and stitch up to the tip. As you get to the tip, manipulate your stitches as best as possible to give good coverage, but don't crowd your stitches into the tip. You will be using fewer stitches as you work towards the center area of the leaf. Stitch both sides of the leaf in the same manner, filling the second layer with the medium green.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Once the medium green is completed, switch to the darkest green, 3011.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Begin in the mddle and work up to the tip, bringing your stitches to the center vein line on the leaf. On each side of the leaf, your stitches will meet at the center, forming a line down the center of the leaf.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Stretch your stitches to the center line where possible - up towards the top of the leaf, this will be easy, as the distance to the center line is not as far. As you work down the leaf (you can see this in the photo above), your long stitches may be too long if they are to meet the center line. This is ok. Don't take them all the way to the center line - you can go back and fill in one more layer of the dark green, to complete the filling process.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


You can see in the circled area that my dark green did not stretch all the way to the central line. After working this area, I went back and filled in with another layer of dark green.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


As you fill in at the base of the leaf with the dark green, take the stitches over the split stitch line where the stem meets the base, as necessary.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


You will notice here that I have still got one area at the base of the leaf (on both sides) that is not filled in.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


At this point, instead of long and short stitch, I will use long straight stitches (satin stitch) to cover the rest of the base of the leaf. I worked these stitches in medium green (3012).

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


This is the leaf, completely filled in.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


There are a couple little "trouble" spots, but I didn't let them worry me. The first is that area on the center line. You can see the white fabric there where the stitches don't quite meet, and you can see one area where the stitches in the center do meet. We will stitch a stem over this, so it will not be noticeable and is not worth correcting. Also, at the base, the satin stitches seem more obvious, as they are not shaded. Once the stem is in, however, they will be less noticeable.

For the stem, take one strand of dark green (3011) and one strand of burgundy (814) and thread both strands together in your needle. You do not need to arrange them in any special way - just thread them both in.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Beginning at the base of the stem (the end of the stem line, farthest away from the leaf), using stem stitch, work your way to the tip of the stem area on the leaf. End your stem line about 1/2" - 3/4" below the tip of the leaf. If you are unsure of how to work the stem stitch, check out my stem stitch video tutorial.

Long & Short Stitch shading in hand embroidery on needlenthread.com


Congratulations! You have completed Element Five and now you're ready to move on to Element Six - another leaf, but slightly more complicated than this one.

If you'd like a PDF of this lesson so that you may print it out, here 'tis:

Lesson Six: a Simple Leaf (PDF)

Good luck and have fun with it! (And don't hesitate to leave a comment below if you have any questions!)

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Thursday, August 27, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Lesson 5: Shaded Curves

 
In Lesson Five of this series of Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons, we're looking at element 4 on the sampler, the ribbon-like swirl and the little swash shape in the top right corner.

If you are just joining us for these lessons in shading with long and short stitch, you can find all the articles related to the lessons listed under the Long and Short Stitch Lesson Index. For those of you who want to know what these lessons are all about, they are merely to help the embroiderer learn the basics of long and short stitch shading in order to feel confident in tackling more complex needle painting projects. The lessons are free and will be kept here on Needle 'n Thread, easily accessible, so that you can follow them at your own pace.

The fifth long and short stitch lesson focuses on stitching around a curve, in order to shade design elements such as ribbon or flowing text.

For this element (the top right corner of the sampler), you will need the same shades of blue that were used on the triangle: DMC 159, 159, 160, and 161.

You'll also need #9 or #10 crewel needles, sharp embroidery scissors, and a hoop or frame to keep the work taut.

For basic technique in long and short stitch, feel free to visit Lesson Two, where you will find three videos demonstrating basic long and short stitch. Reading and working through the previous lessons up to this point will help you as well.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Begin with the small swash next to the ribbon. Anchor your thread and split stitch an outline around the small swash in medium-light blue (160). Begin the long and short stitch (in 160) in the center of the rounded end of the swash, working to the right side of the swash, then going back to the center and working to the left edge of the swash.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


When you finish with color 160, if you still have "stitching room" on your thread, take your needle from the back of the fabric to the front, outside to the working area, without cutting the thread. You can leave your thread here until you are ready to use this color again. This way, you don't have to end and re-start the thread each time you need to use the same color.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Switch to light blue (159) and stitch two ore more rows of long and short stitch, to fill the main central part of the swash. As you stitch each row, make slight adjustments in direction in order to ease your way aroudn the turn of the swash. See the phot below for stitching direction:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


The red slashes indicate the turning stitches. The green slashes indicate the stitches that extend to the side and over the split stitch outline. As the stitches on the left approach the split stitch line, take them over the line to ensure a smooth edge. Keep gradually moving your stitches around the bend of the swahs, adjust the stitch direction as you grow. Switch back to medium light blue (160) for one row, then medium-dark blue (161) for the next row, and then end the swash at the point in dark blue (158).

The key in getting around the curves gently is to slowly adapt your stitches to the curve. Take small stitches where need be (in fact, your stitches will be smaller going around the curve), in order to "tweak" the stitch direction so that your stitches are working in the direction you want them to go (which is toward the tip of the swash). Remember that, as your space gets smaller, you use fewer stitches (just as you did with the triangles).

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


When you finish your swash, it should look something like this.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


(Mine looks better from farther away!)

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Once you've finished the small swash, you're ready to move on to the large ribbon shape. Begin on the lower right tail of the ribbon. Outline in split stitch (159) as demonstrated in the photo above. You do not need to outline the whole shape - just the top edge of the ribbon and about half way down the sides.

Use a pencil to mark direction lines down the length of the ribbon tail, and color-change lines across the width of the ribbon tail, as shown in the photo above. You want four sections of the area "blocked off" to mark approximately where you will change shades.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Working in light blue (159), work the long and short stitch over the split stitch line at the top end of the ribbon.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Begin the next row of long and short stitch in medium-light blue (160). Remember to take your new stitches deep into the first row of stitches.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Work the third row of stitches in medium-dark blue (161). Begin shifting your stitch direction more dramatically in order to accommodate the curve.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


When it becomes necessary to cover the split stitch line, bring your needle up outside the line so that you can cover it. You'll take the stitch back down inside the shape.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


You'll probably work at least two rows in medium-dark blue (161). These rows will require the most dramatic change in stitch direction. Try to follow the curve of the ribbon, using relatively short stitches and adjusting their direction as you work around the curve.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Finally, switch to the darkest blue (158), and continue working in short stitches, easing around the curve to the point of the ribbon curl, and decreasing the number of stitches in order to fit the design area.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Continue to add subsequent rows of dark blue (158) until you reach the tip, as shown below:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


This is the finished first ribbon tail.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


At this point, you can mark in your stitch direction lines and your color lines on the main section of the ribbon. Divide the ribbon across its width as indicated above. In the widest part of the ribbon here, the center will be light, and it will gradually get darker towards the tips. The stitch direction will work around the curve of the ribbon.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Now that you've finished the lower tail of the ribbon and marked your stitch direction, turn your work over so that the element is upside-down. The next section of the ribbon is easier to work upside-down. First, using 158 (dark blue), stem stitch the thin line between the curl you just finished and the main section of the ribbon. (The area circled in red in the photo above). When your stem stitch reaches the point where the lines divdide to form the mid-section of the ribbon, you can switch to split stitch for outlining the area. Outline on a little way up into the main curve of the ribbon (also shown in the photo above).

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Then, in the darkest blue (still 158), work long and short stitches to fill the tip of the ribbon, working from the narrow point to the wider center.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


The red lines above indicate the stitch direction. Notice that I'm not starting in the tip of the ribbon, and fanning out. Rather, I'm starting on the side of the ribbon, and working almost vertically.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Switch to the medium-blue (161) and then medium blue (160) and continue to work long and short stitch to fill the riboon shape.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


As you switch colors, anchor your working threads in the fabric above the design so that you can keep using them when you return to those colors on the rest of this section.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


In the widest part of the ribbon (center), switch to light blue (159), and stitch two or three rows (depending on the size of your stitches). Alter the direction of your stitches to gradually move them towards the tip where the lines of the design converge.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Keep adjusting your stitches as you round the curve, and then switch back to medium blue (160).

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


After stitching a row of medium blue, switch to medium dark (161) and continue towards the tip of the ribbon.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


If you turn your work right-side-up at this point, it should basically look like this. You can outline the tip in split stitch, using dark blue (158) if you wish. I did not outline at this point - I just continued filling to the tip where the lines of the design converge.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Working upside-down again, continue filling with the darkest blue, to the tip of the large ribbon curve, easing your stitches around the curve by changing their direction little by little.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


The tip should look like this.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Continuing with the dark blue (158), stem stitch the line between the main part of the ribbon and the top curl. Again, where the lines separate to form the top curl of the ribbon, switch to split stitch and outline the lower third of the curl.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Mark in your stitch direction lines and the lines to indicate changes in shade, if you wish. Split stitch the very edge of the ribbon (hidden here by long and short stitch) in medium-light blue (160), and then work one row of medium-light (160) in long and short stitch. If it is easier for you, turn your work upside down again.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Following the same sequence as in the lower curl on the ribbon, work a row or two of light blue (159) in long and short stitch, tweaking your stitch direction as you work around the curve. Then switch to medium-light blue (160), then medium-dark blue (161) - one row of each - then to dark blue (158), which will fill the tip.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Congratulations! You have finished the fourth element in the Long and Short Stitch Shading Sampler - the most difficult element so far! If you're still with me, you'll find the next element (the center leaf on the top of the sampler) a breeze! See you in Lesson Six!

Here's a PDF download of this lesson:

Lesson Five: Long and Short Stitch Shading on Curves

For previous lessons, visit this Index of Lessons in Long and Short Stitch Shading.


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Monday, August 24, 2009

Society Silk Embroidery - A Beautiful Resource

 
Lately, you've seen a few mentions of Society Silk embroidery - also called Silk Art embroidery, needle painting, thread painting, silk shading, and ... on and on - here on Needle 'n Thread. The box of vintage needlework supplies (including silk threads and stamped linens from the early part of the 20th century) was, for me, a catalyst for further explorations into Society Silk. I also featured some of these historic needlework items in my give-away a couple weeks ago. Since then, it's been a case of Silk-Art-Embroidery-on-the-Brain.

Needless to say, then, I was super-duper delighted when a reader left a comment directing me to her Flickr page that is jam-packed full of 192 photos of Society Silk embroidery! Oh, wow! I was in Silk-Shaded Heaven.

Society Silk Embroidery Images on Flickr


This particular collection on Flickr includes color plates from books published by silk companies and now in the public domain. The collector has put her images together in one place, so that the rest of us can meander through some really gorgeous examples of silk shading and other embroidery in silk.

Society Silk Embroidery Images on Flickr


Even if nothing else in the collection thrills you to the tips of your toes (a scenario which is highly unlikely!), then this embroidered peacock surely will. It is... it's - amazing.

Society Silk Embroidery Images on Flickr


While you're meandering around Embroiderist's Flickr collection, make sure to click on Embroidery Collection, which will take you to a more general page that includes all her collections related to embroidery. Beware, though - you might spend hours browsing! There are heaps of vintage designs there!

Society Silk Embroidery Images on Flickr


I hope you enjoy browsing the Embroiderist's collections - and thank you, Embroiderist, for commenting on Needle 'n Thread and posting your link! I thought it was far too good a source of inspiration to leave it lost in the comments - hope you don't mind the write-up!

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Monday, August 17, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson 4: Circles, Flat and Round

 
Here's Lesson Four in this series of long and short stitch shading lessons. If you're just joining in, you'll find an index of the long and short stitch shading lessons available here on Needle 'n Thread, where you'll find all the links necessarily to easily access these embroidery lessons.

In Lesson Four, we are looking at how to embroider a circle in long and short stitch, in such a way that it looks shaded. Now, there are a couple different ways to go about this, depending on the type of shaded circle you are trying to achieve.

For me, personally, when I'm looking at needle painting, I'm looking at achieving a realistic effect with the long and short stitch. But for others, the two-dimensional flat effect is what they want.

So, in this particular lesson, I'm going to address two methods of long and short stitch: the "textbook" method (comprised of rigorously uniform long and short stitches) and the method we've been following here in these lessons so far, which, over all, is a much freer and more relaxed approach to the technique.

Instead of writing out the exact same lesson that you will find in the PDF at the end of this article, I'll stick to the bare bones for those of you who just want the gist of it. Then, if you want more detail, you can take a look at the PDF.

Colors The colors used in the circles are 347, 349, 351, 353, and 745.

Begin with the top circle, with one strand of 351 threaded in your needle. Split stitch the outer edge of the first circle in 351. Then draw directional lines in pencil inside the circle, like so:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Once you have split stitched around the circle, begin with your needle coming up in the fabric about one third way down the diameter of the circle, on the middle vertical line, as shown by the green dot in the diagram below:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Emerge from the fabric at this point, then take your needle down on the other side of the split stitch line, following the stitch direction marked by the vertical lines. For the next stitch, bring your needle back up into the fabric to the right of your first stitch, right next to it but not crowding it, and just slightly higher in the fabric, and then take it over the split stitched line. Now you have one long stitch and one short stitch. Continue in this manner all the way to the right side of the circle, beginning your long stitches along the same long and your short stitches along the same line.

To help you determine where to begin your stitches, you might draw two horizontal lines inside your circle, like the blue lines in the diagram below:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Once you reach the right side of the circle, go back to the middle and work to the left side of the circle. You'll end up with a row that looks something like this:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


To begin your next row, using color 351, bring your needle up, splitting the centermost long stitch in the first row. You'll want to split this stitch only slight up into it - a good gauge would be to split the stitch next to where your short stitches in the first row end.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Your second row will look somewhat like this.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


For your third row, use 353, and work the row in the same manner as the two above.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Finally, for the last row, use 745 and stitch the last row over the split stitch edge.

That's the first circle, worked in the "textbook" method of long and short stitch.

Second Circle

The second circle is the next one down, slightly to the right.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Begin by drawing an elongated dot at the top left side of the circle, leaving a little space between the dot and the edge of the circle. If you look at the circle as the face of a clock, the elongated dot will be at approximately 11:00 o'clock.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Next, draw directional lines radiating from the dot, as shown in the photo above.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Using 353, split stitch the edge of the circle. Then, begin your long and short stitching on the edge of the elongated dot. You don't want to go into the center of that dot - just consider the edge of it the place where you begin your stitches. As you stitch, fan the stitches out to follow the directional lines, and vary the length of the stitches. On the sides, stretch the stitches over to the edge. Don't hesitate to take a few over the split stitch line.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Fill in all around the elongated dot, so that the stitches fan out into the circle, and then begin the second row in 351. You'll want to fill in any gaps left by the first row, and build up a thickness of stitches here. You don't want them to overlap each other, but you do need them to cover the ground fabric, so make sure that you tuck in stitches where necessary to fill the area and cover the ground fabric.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


I wasn't really satisfied with the lighter stitches on the left side of the elongated dot, so I went back in with 353 and tucked in a stitch to balance the top of the sphere out a bit. Yet another testimony to the forgiving nature of the L & S stitch, when stitched in this manner!

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Your second row will look approximately like this.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Your next row is also worked in 351, filling in the center a bit more and building up a full foundation of stitches.

Then switch to 349, and fill in the rest of the sphere, following your stitch direction lines, and taking the thread over the split stitch line when necessary. You will probably stitch at least two rows of 349.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


When you finish filling the sphere, which looks a bit like a berry, you'll have something close to this.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Using 347, stitch a few satin stitches across the elongated dot.

Third Circle

The third circle is going to be stitched much like the second, but the "berry" is turned to the other side.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Place a fat dot on the right side of the circle, about halfway down the length of it, and near the edge, but not touching it. Draw lines that radiate from the circle, as shown in the photo above. You can also draw in "layering" lines, which will help you know where to layer your colors.

When you have drawn your directional lines, you can split stitch around the circle in 349.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Beginning with 353 again, stitch in your directional lines radiating from the edge of the circle on the right.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Once you have the directional lines in, go back and fill in between them, varying the length of your stitches.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


Begin the second row in 351, fanning your stitches out to follow your directional lines. Keep varying the length of your stitches, as seen in the photo above.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


When you need help setting in a directional stitch, remember that you can pull your working thread in the direction you want your stitch to lie, then put your needle into the fabric underneath your working thread, so the stitch ends up in the right spot.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


When you finish your second row, it should look something like the one in the photo above.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


The next row is worked in 349. Remember to take your thread over the split stitch line as it becomes necessary to do so.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


The final row is stitched in 347, over the split stitch line.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlethread.com


When you finish filling in the circle, using 347 again, add a few satin stitches to the inner circle.

Congratulations! You have now finished the first three elements of the Long and Short stitch shading lessons.

You can see all the other available lessons in this series in the Index of Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons.

You can print or save this lesson (PDF) from the following link:

Lesson Four: Circles, Flat and Round (PDF)

You will probably notice that, of the three circles in this lesson, the last two are far more realistic looking than the first. The techniques used in the last two circles would be the same technique you would use to work such things as fruit (cherries, grapes, berries, larger round fruit, etc.) or vegetables (peas?!) or any spherical item that you want to look more dimensional.

Have fun with it!

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson 3: Triangles

 
Lesson Three of the Long and Short Stitch Shading series focuses on stitching to a point. I have to admit right off the bat, my stitching on these elements is not as good as I would have liked them to be! I suppose I could chalk that up to some kind of panic to get the lessons done, but really - it's a such a cop-out to offer excuses! I suppose you'll just have to take it as it is! The technique is there, anyway, and I'm sure that some of my "students" here will outstitch me on the finish - which is actually what a teacher always wants, isn't it?

If you're just popping in on this series of embroidery lessons on long and short stitch shading, you can visit the Index of Long & Short Stitch Lessons to find all the back issues of the lessons listed in one place.

Don't forget that I've also set up a Needle 'n Thread Flickr group, where you can post pictures and get feedback.

Our objectives in this lesson are to practice stitching long & short stitch to a converging point, keeping the correct stitch direction, and to understand how to reduce the number of stitches in smaller spaces (without bunching up the stitches) in a way that looks (more or less!) natural...

Materials:

1. Project in hoop or frame, with element two: triangles centered (lower left corner of the design.

2. #9 or #10 crewel (embroidery) needles

3. Small, sharp embroidery scissors

4. DMC stranded cotton (or equivalent) in the following colors: 158 (dark blue), 159 (light blue), 160 (medium-light blue), 161 (medium blue)

NOTE: The technique of the stitch is the same learned in lesson two. This particular lesson presents two challenges: keeping the stitch direction and reducing the number of stitches as the space gets smaller.

Procedure

Begin with the top triangle. Anchor your thread according to your favorite method, or use the method demonstrated in the video tutorial of lesson two, part one.

Work a split stitch line across the top line of the first triangle (the broadest part) in dark blue (158).

Beginning in the center of the top line, draw a vertical line to the tip of the triangle, then split the remaining distance on each side of the top line several times, drawing a straight line from any point on the top line to the tip of the triange, like so:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


Triangle 1 - Top left triangle

First Row:

Bring your needle up through the fabric, about 3/8" below the split stitch line, in the top center of the box. Take your first stitch over the split stitch line and back into the fabric. Now, working down the row to the right, stitch in about four directional stitches more or less the same length, dividing up the row. (This is illustrated in the videos in lesson two). The difference here is that your stitches are not vertical - they point towards the tip of the triangle. After placing in your directional lines (which are "long" stitches), go back to the center and work to the right, filling in short stitches of varying lengths, moving down the row.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


You want your stitches to lie next to each other, as they would in satin stitch, so make sure that you space them correctly - not too close that they bunch up, but not too far apart that you can see any fabric between them.

Continue working across the fabric to the right side of the triangle, altering the size of your stitches between long and short. Vary their lengths, for a more natural-looking shading. You want the bottom edge of your row of stitches to be jagged, but you still want to keep an overally consistent length across the longest points of your stitches.

When you reach the right edge of the triangle, end with a long stitch on the pencil line. This is approximately what your progress should look like so far:

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Now move back to the middle and address the left side of the triangle, finishing the first row:

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Second & Third Rows

The second and third rows are worked in 161 (medium blue) and 160 (medium light blue).

Bring your needle up from the back of your fabric into the first row of stitches, in the center. Then take your stitch down into the fabric, following your directional lines.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


To help keep the direction of your stitches correct, pull your working thread to the tip of the triangle, so you can always see in what direction your stitches should be pointing.

You may add directional stitches if it is easier for you, or you may simply stitch from the center over to the right side of the triangle.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Go deep into the first row of stitches and vary the entry point of your stitches, following basically the same long and short stitch pattern from the row above. Remember, though, that the second row is not as wide as the first, so you can't fit in as many stitches. You won't be bringing your needle up into every stitch on the first row, so don't try! Try to gauge this as you go. Directional stitches may help you with this!

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Continue working to the right side of the triangle...

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


... then go back to the center and work to the left side.

Follow the same procedure for the next row, working in the medium-light blue (160) and keeping in mind the following:

---- Keep your stitches directed towards the point.
---- Don't crowd them - there will be even fewer stitches in this row!

Work from the center to the right:

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


And when you finish the third row, it should look more or less like this:

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Last Row

The last row is the trickiest. You should be close enough to the tip of the triangle that your first stitch reaches the tip. If you aren't, don't worry about it. Make the stitch shorter. The point is that you want this last row to feed into the tip, but in order to do that without building up a big bunch of stitches at the tip, you're going to have to "tuck in" some stitches.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


All the stitches it will take to fill the top part of this row cannot fit into the tip of the triangle. So, you're going to work long and short stitches, but pretty much what's going to happen is that your long stitches will "overlap" the ends of the shorter stitches, which won't be "finished" down to the tip. And, you may find that you have to go back to fill in a gap at the top - to sneak a stitch in. At that point, you'll angle your needle underneath the stitches already there. (This is when you'll really find out how handy good lighting is!)

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


In the picture above, my needle is angled underneath the stitch on its left. I'm tucking the new stitch in, so that I don't have a bulky build-up at the tip.

Continue filling in this manner to the right side of the triangle, taking long stitches down to the tip when necessary, eyeing it to make sure your long stitches fit:

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Then go back to the center and work in the same manner to the left side of the triangle:

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Second Triangle

The second triangle is worked in the same manner as the first, but it is worked from the bottom (the broad base) to the tip, going upwards. Instead of writing out each direction, I've provided some pictures at various stages. You'll see it's the same exact concept as the first triangle, only your stitching direction is going upwards.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


So, you have the split stitch line at the base, then you stitch from the center over the split stitch line.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Put in directional stitches if you want. I find they help, but some instructors say not to use them (although others say to use them!).

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Fill in the first row in the same method as detailed above. I'm not super pleased with the edge on this first row - a bit too bumpy! You'll do better!!

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Fill in all the subsequent rows up to the tip, and there's the finished triangle.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Move on to the triangle with the curved top - split stitch the top curved line in the lightest blue, and draw your directional lines with a pencil.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Fill in the first row in the same manner detailed above... notice that the first row is shaped like an arch. As you fill in the subsequent rows, you want to keep this arch shape by fanning your stitches around in that semi-circle.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


Fill in your subsequent rows, fanning the stitches out in an arch as you stitch.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


As you fill in the last row in the darkest blue, you may find you have to sneak some stitches in, but "tucking" them in.

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


The finished little element.

Congratulations! If you're with me to this point, you've finished element two and are ready to go on to element three, the circles, which are... a challenge! But a fun one!

Long and Short Stitch Shading tutorials on needlenthread.com


And there's the sampler so far.

Here's a PDF version of Lesson 3: Triangles

Long & Short Stitch Shading, Lesson Three: Triangles

For all the other lessons in this series, check out the Long & Short Stitch Shading Lesson Index!

Nordic Needle Stitching Heaven www.nordicneedle.com

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Friday, August 07, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson 2 continued

 
Today's article is the continuation of yesterday's Long and Short Stitch Shading, Lesson 2. We'll be looking at the larger box in Element 1 on the Long & Short Stitch Sampler. This box is stitched on the diagonal, so it's a little more difficult than yesterday's vertical stitching.

If you're just joining in on the Long and Short Stitch lessons, you can visit the Long & Short Stitch Lesson Index to see a list of already published lessons and articles in this series.

Once you've worked through the first box in Element One on the sampler, it's time to move to the second box, which is the larger of the two boxes. This second box is set behind the first. Often, in needlepainting (long and short stitch shading), the elements farther back in the design are embroidered first, but we'll make an exception with these boxes! The first box was easier to stitch, so that's why we started with it.

Materials:

1. Project in hoop or frame

2. #9 or #10 crewel (embroidery) needles (I'm using #10)

3. DMC Colors: 814, 347, 349, 351, 353, 745, Ecru - note that 3855 (darker yellow) isn't used on this box

4. Small, sharp embroidery scissors

Procedure:

Begin by stitching a split stitch line around the box. Start on the left side and stitch up the left side and across the top of the box in the salmony-red 351. Stitch down the right side of the box and across the base line in yellow 745.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


When you've finished split stitching the lines, go ahead and draw in your diagonal stitch direction with a pencil. Take a look at the diagram below:

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Boxes - Stitch Direction


The pink lines in the boxes above indicate the direction of stitching. Notice that on the second box, the direction is diagonal instead of vertical.

The first row will be stitched in the top left corner of the box, just underneath the smaller box. The first row is worked in dark burgundy (814). In the diagram below, you can see the basic shape of the first area to be filled:

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Boxes - Stitch Direction


Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


Following the same directions from yesterday's post - the first part of lesson 2 on basic long and short stitch - work from the center point (just under the corner of the top box) towards the top line. Mark in your directional stitches before you begin - this will help keep you on the diagonal.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


Then stitch from the center point to the left side of the box, following the direction of your diagonal lines and filling in between your directional stitches.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


The second row is worked in dark red (347). Bring your needle up in the center of your first row, splitting the stitches as you learned in yesterday's lesson. Work from the center to the top line of the box, marking in directional stitches and filling in between them.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


Move back to the center and work to the left side of the box, filling in the second row.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


The next row is worked in bright red (349). Begin in the center and work to the top line and then back to the center to the left side of the box. Here, I began in the center and worked first to the left side of the box. (You can work in either direction first...)

When you get to the point that your long stitches would cross over the split stitch line at the base of the box, cross over the split stitch line and fill in the rest of the corner with satin stitch.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


You can see that the last few stitches in the corner here are worked in satin stitch. You may not arrive at this point working the third row - you might not get here until the fourth row of stitching - and this is fine. It depends, you see, on how deep you stitch each row of stitches. But whenever you arrive at the point where your long stitches are going to cross over the corner, go ahead and cross the split stitch line, then finish the corner off with satin stitch.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


This is the completed third row.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


The fourth row is worked in the salmony-red (351). Again, as you come to the point where your long stitches want to cross the corner, go ahead and cross the corner and fill the rest of the area by working over the split stitch line toward the corner.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


The fifth row is worked in the lighter salmon (353), and, as you work, notice that you will be filling quite a bit over the split stitch line on the right side of the box and on the base line of the box.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


Work the sixth row in light yellow (745) in the same method.

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


And, finally, work into the corner of the box in Ecru.

Voila! You have finished stitching inside the boxes!

Long & Short Stitch Shading - Needlepainting - on needlethread.com


Next lesson - filling in an angled area that begins broad and works to a tip (triangles).

Long & Short Stitch Shading Lessons - Related Posts


Supplies

Lesson One: Setting Up

Lesson Two, Part 1: Inside the Box - Basic Long and Short Stitch (with three-part video tutorials)

INDEX of Long & Short Stitch Lessons




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Thursday, August 06, 2009

Share Photos of Your Long & Short Stitch Project!

 
Just a quick announcement! If you want to share photos of your long and short stitch project, get feedback from fellow embroiderers, or ask a specific question about a problem, I've set up a Flickr group for the Long and Short Stitch Shading lessons. You're welcome to join up! I think it'll be a good way to get feedback from others, display your work, and help others, too. Here's the Flickr group address:

Flickr Group for Long & Short Stitch Lessons

In order to comment and post photos in the group, you need a Flickr account. They're free and it's relatively easy to sign up. Once you have an account, you add your photos to your photostream. Then, you can join the group and add your photos to the group photo pool. You can even put little notes on your photos, to highlight an area you might have a question about - which is a very hand feature, when learning a technique online.

So, if you're interested, feel free to join the group on Flickr. I'll be checking in at least once a day, too.

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Long & Short Stitch Shading, Lesson 2: Inside the Box

 
Continuing with the series of long and short stitch shading lessons, here's Lesson 2: Inside the Box. In this lesson, we'll be stitching element one on the sampler, the two boxes in the top left corner.

If you're just joining us for the long and short stitch shading lessons, be sure to check out the previous posts in this series: Supplies and Lesson One: Setting up.

At the end of this post, you'll see a series of three videos on the basic long and short stitch. (I couldn't quite cram it all into one 10-minute video!)

Materials:

1. Project in hoop or frame, with Element One: Boxes centered in hoop (top left corner of the whole sampler)

2. #9 or #10 crewel (embroidery) needles (I use a #10)

3. Small, sharp embroidery scissors

4. DMC stranded cotton in the following colors: 814, 347, 349, 351, 353, 3855, 745, Ecru

NOTE: There is a difference between the step-by-step photos and the video tutorial for this lesson. In the step-by-step photos, I began the top of the box with bright red (349). In the video tutorial, I began the top row in dark red, (347) and worked six rows of color. The directions, however, are written with the bright red (349) as the first color, with five rows working to the lightest yellow (745). You can work the box either way, with five or six rows. If you work five rows, start with bright red (349). If you work six, start with dark red (347).

All stitching is worked with one strand of floss.

To Begin

1. Begin with the smallest box.

2. Anchor your thread according to your favorite method, or use the method demonstrated in the video tutorial, part 1.

3. Work a split stitch line across the top of the small box in bright red (349).

Draw vertical lines, from the center to each side of the box, to mark your stitch direction. Use a regular pencil for this. The vertical lines will help keep your stitches straight up and down. (This is demonstrated in the video, part 1).

First Row

1. Bring your needle up through the fabric, about 3/8" below the split stitch line, in the top center of the box. Take your first stitch over the split stitch line and back into the fabric. Now, working down the row to the right, space about six directional stitches more or less the same length all the way to the right edge of the box. This is illustrated in the video, part 1. after placing your directional lines (which are "long" stitches), go back to the center and work to the right, filling in "short" stitches of varying lengths, moving down the row.

2. You want your stitches to lie right next to each other, as they would in satin stitch, so make sure that you space them correctly - not too close that they bunch up, but not too far apart that you can see any fabric between them.

3. Continue working across the fabric to the right side of the box, alternating the size of your stitches between long and short. Vary their lengths. For a natural-looking long and short stitch (less formal and rigid-looking), stagger the length of your stitches between several lengths - some long, some a little shorter, then a bit longer, then shorter again, then shorter yet, then a little longer, then long, then short, then slightly longer, etc......! You want the bottom edge of your stitched row to be jagged, but you want ot keep an overall consistent length across the longest points of the stitches.

4. When you reach the right edge of the box, end with a long stitch on the pencil line. This is approximately what your progress should look like so far:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


5. Now, move back to the middle of the box and work from the center to the left side of the box, doing the same thing.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


6. If you're like me, one side will look better than the other. I don't know why this is! For me, the second half that I stitch always looks better than the first, even if I switch directions and stitch from the center to the left first.

Refer to the Long and Short Stitch Video, part 1, below, to see this technique worked out.

Subsequent Rows - up to, but not including, the last row

1. After the first row, each row is worked in the following sequence of colors:
---- Row 2: 351
---- Row 3: 353
---- Row 4: 3855

2. For subsequent rows, after the first row, bring your needle up from the back of your fabric into the first row of stitches, in the center:

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


3. Stitch some longer directional stitches from the center towards the right edge, dividing up the stitching area as you did with the first row (demonstrated in the video, part 2).

4. Stagger the entry point at the top of the stitches, so that some begin higher and some lower than the others. Work into the long stitches of the first row, about one-third the length up into the long stitches.

5. Work the short stitches of the second row high up into the first row of stitches, bringing the needle back down into the fabric to make a "short" stitch in the second row. Again, stagger your stitches, varying their length by varying where the stitches emerge in the previous row and where they go down into the fabric.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


6. Continue from the center to the right edge, and then work from the center to the left edge of the box. You can find this technique demonstrated in the Long & Short Stitch Video, part 2, below.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


You'll work each row in this manner, filling in the square, until you get to the last row.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


Make sure that you're taking your stitches deep into the previous row, so that the colors blend well. Again, the video will help with this!

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


The Last Row

1. Split stitch the base line of the square in light yellow, 745.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorial on needlenthread.com


2. Finish the last row in the same manner of the previous rows, but working the base of the stitches over the split stitch line, as you did with the beginning of the first row.

To help reduce "information overload" in one post, tomorrow I'll post the rest of Lesson Two, which is the second box, worked on the diagonal!

You may print, if you wish, a PDF of the entire lesson (including the second box):

Long and Short Stitch Shading, Lesson Two: Inside the Box (PDF)

Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 1



Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 2



Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 3



If you have any questions or comments, need clarification on anything, or have any suggestions that I'm able to implement concerning the lessons, don't hesitate to leave a comment below. Additionally, you can subscribe to the e-mail newsletter (right hand column) or my RSS feed to ensure you don't miss the next lesson! Advantages of the newsletter include that it's in a better format for printing (compared to the webpage) and you can reply directly to it to send me an e-mail (and attach pictures, if you wish).

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons - Related Posts


Supplies for Long and Short Stitch Shading Project

Lesson One - Setting Up

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson INDEX

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Sunday, August 02, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Lessons Index

 
To keep things organized for the upcoming series of long and short stitch shading (needlepainting) tutorials, here's an index of all related links.

List of Long & Short Stitch Lessons and Links

Long and Short Stitch Lessons on www.needlenthread.com


Flickr Group for Sharing Photos and Receiving Feedback

Supplies

Lesson One: Setting Up the Project - includes design, materials list, instructions on transferring the design, etc.

Lesson Two: Element One - Inside the Box - basic long and short stitch technique - Includes Video Tutorials!

Lesson Two, Part 2: Element One - The Large Box (stitched on the diagonal)

Lesson Three: Element Two - Triangles - Shading at an Angle

Lesson Four: Circles - from flat to three dimensional on round elements like berries

Lesson Five: Ribbon - Shading around curves and to a point

Lesson Six: A Simple Leaf

Lesson Seven: Another Leaf - slightly more complex

Lesson Eight: Small Simple Flower

Lesson Nine: Leaf with a Turnover

There is a direct link to this Index under "Editor's Floss" in the right hand column.

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Saturday, August 01, 2009

A Humungo Mistake - and a Good Lesson

 
I usually proof read. What am I saying? I always proof read! But sometimes I miss things. Thanks to Pat for catching a big mistake. In the scheme of things, color-wise, it's a huge mistake, especially if you've already gone to the effort of shopping for threads!

I listed in the materials section DMC #754. The number should be 745. If you can make that adjustment without too much inconvenience, that would be good.

754 is a peachy/pink color, I think, and 745 (the correct color) is a yellow. Now, if you already have your threads and you're ready to go, just use the 754. I know it isn't the color, and some parts of the piece may look slightly different from what was intended, but it's not as if it's a green or a purple, so you can probably get away with it. The point of the lesson is to practice the long and short stitch, and even if the colors are slightly off, it doesn't mean you still can't practice.

On the other hand, if you're the type who will be completely bothered by the difference, and may even chuck the project because it isn't "quite right," then by all means, pick up 745 next time you're out! The color is used in the first and third elements, and we'll be starting with the first element (the boxes) next week.

I'm awfully sorry, really embarrassed, and at least thankful that I've learned a good lesson before getting too far into this series - proof read the nitty gritty!

Thanks again, Pat!

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Friday, July 31, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson 1: Setting Up a Project

 
Here beginneth the promised long and short stitch shading lessons. These will appear as regular posts on Needle 'n Thread over the next several weeks. Even if you aren't inclined to learn long and short stitch, I still hope you find these little tutorials interesting, informative, and helpful for whatever hand embroidery technique you prefer. Of course, I'll still be adding regular content to Needle 'n Thread between the lessons. The lessons will be spaced out, with at least one a week, and not more than two. Here we go, then, with Lesson 1.

You already know that, before you launch into most embroidery projects, you have to do some preliminary work. Today's lesson covers the preliminaries.

Lesson 1: Getting Started

Objectives

1. to gather & organize materials
2. to transfer the design
3. to frame (or hoop) up the fabric for stitching.

Materials

1. Fabric: high count cotton (muslin, calico) in solid color (white, natural): 12" x 12" square.

2. Transfer tool (your choice): #2 pencil, water-soluble fabric marker, micron art pen (.005), iron-on pencil, or dressmaker's carbon, whichever method of transfer you prefer. I'm using a #2 mechanical pencil. I use mechanical pencils because they're consistently sharp.

3. Scotch tape

4. Pair of 10" stretcher bars OR a decent embroidery hoop (4" or 6" will work well)

5. Iron and ironing board

6. Pattern (below)

7. #9 or #10 crewel needles (I will use size 10)

8. Small, sharp scissors

9. Embroidery threads: DMC stranded cotton in the following colors, arranged numerically below for easy shopping. You'll find them grouped by design element further along in the lesson.

158, 159, 160, 161, 223, 225, 347, 349, 351, 353, 469, 471, 472, 613, 745, 814, 3011, 3012, 3013, 3052, 3855, Ecru

10. Pencil for marking stitch direction as you progress (if you don't use a regular pencil for transferring your design)

11. Good lighting! If you don't have a light specifically for your needlework or crafts, I suggest a very sunny window or porch, or as bright a light inside as you can manage.

Procedure

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on Needle 'n Thread, Pattern


1. Print this PDF of the Long and Short Stitch Lessons Pattern. It should print as approximately a 7" square. The pattern is designed so that you can work the whole piece or you can work each individual element separately on scrap fabric. If you are stitching each element individually on scrap fabric, you can skip the next step.

2. Cut a 12" square of fabric and stitch the edges with a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine to keep the edges from fraying. Alternately, you can hand stitch around the edges with a whip stitch. (This is a normal step in setting up a project, but on this project, I admit that I skipped stitching the edges!)

3. Iron your fabric well. You can use starch if you wish. It doesn't make any difference in the stitching (as long as there's no flaking on the fabric), and it will rinse out at the end. You want your fabric smooth and wrinkle-free.

4. Choose your favorite method for transferring a design onto fabric. You will find several methods discussed under Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery here on Needle 'n Thread. For this type of embroidery, I'm using a light box and a pencil.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on needlenthread.com


First, tape your pattern to your light box. A sunny window will give you the same results as a light box, if you don't have one.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on needlenthread.com


Center your fabric over the pattern and align the lines (as much as possible) with the grain of the fabric. You don't want to be stitching on the bias! Tape your fabric to the light box, too. I eye-balled the center of the fabric, but if you want to be more precise, you can finger-fold the fabric in half lightly, horizontally and vertically, so you can see where the center of the fabric is.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on needlenthread.com


Using a #2 pencil, trace the design. Use a straight-edge (ruler or what-have-you) for the lines. Don't "stroke" as you trace. Try to trace with one smooth, constant line.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on needlenthread.com


Notice that the lines aren't hairy or sketchy.

5. Now you're ready to frame up your fabric, if you're using stretcher bars. If you're using a hoop, you don't need to hoop the fabric up until you're ready to start stitching.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on needlenthread.com


A 4" hoop will fit individual design elements. You can use anywhere from a 4" - 6" hoop. If you can't find a Really Good Hoop, that's ok. Use a plastic Susan Bates-type hoop - it will work fine for this project. Just be sure to tighten the hoop and your fabric often.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on needlenthread.com


I'll be using stretcher bar frames - specifically, Evertite stretcher bars. If you're using stretcher bars, a 10" square will work. But, if you're not familiar with all these tools and gadgets, just use a simple hoop - you'll be fine!

6. Gather your threads and organize them according to your favorite method. You can separate them for each element, so that you only have to have the necessary threads out at one time.

Element 1 (Boxes) and Element 3 (Circles): 814, 347, 349, 351, 353, 3855, 745, & Ecru

Element 2 (Triangles) and Element 4 (Ribbon Swirly): 158, 159, 160, 161

Leaves: 469, 471, 472, 613, 3011, 3012, 3013, 3052

Little Flower: Ecru, 223, 225

Long and Short Stitch Shading Tutorials on needlenthread.com


If you want to use thread cards for organization, you can print the threads cards, already numbered. The directions for using the cards have already been discussed here on Needle 'n Thread, and the link is provided below, too.

Long and Short Stitch Thread Cards (PDF)
Directions for Organizing Threads using Thread Cards

7. Take a look at the colored design, below. I colored it with prismacolors. The color isn't 100% accurate - I've made some adjustments while stitching - but at least it gave me a sense of what colors I wanted to use, and the general direction of the shading. To get a sense of shading, try coloring your pattern yourself, if you have colored pencils on hand. You don't have to do this, of course, but it will help familiarize you with the direction we're going in. I think it's always a good idea to at least try to color a shaded design yourself, if possible, to get the feel for the shading.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Order of Stitching the Project

The elements of the project will be stitched in a specific sequence, as indicated in the picture below.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons on needlenthread.com


Summary of Print Materials

Here's a summary of all the printed material for Lesson One. They're all PDF documents. The lesson itself is available as well. There are no pictures included in it - just straight text - but if you want to print it and read through it at your convenience, you may.

L&S Project Pattern
L&S Colored Pattern
Thread Cards
L&S Lesson One: Getting Started (including materials list) (a luxury - this may not always happen, but I'll definitely try!)

Conclusion

I'm not covering any stitching in Lesson One, in order to give those of you following these tutorials the weekend to gather supplies and set up your project.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to leave a comment below. Any questions directly related to the lessons can be left in the comment section on Needle 'n Thread, below this article, so that others will learn from any ensuing discussion or clarifications, too.

If you're on board for these lessons and want to make sure you don't miss any, feel free to sign up for my daily newsletter. You'll find the sign-up box near the top of the page, in the right-hand column. You'll receive each day's post in your inbox, on the day that it's posted. Also, it'll give you a more printer-friendly version, if you intend to print out the tutorials.

Don't hesitate to let me know if you have any questions, suggestions, difficulties, etc.!

Move On To Lesson Two: Basic Long and Short Stitch with Video Tutorials

Nordic Needle Stitching Heaven www.nordicneedle.com

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Tuesday, July 28, 2009

I Forgot Ecru!

 
Cleaning up the studio this afternoon and putting threads away, I found myself looking at a skein of Ecru DMC. I suddenly realized I forgot Ecru!! If you're planning to stitch along with the Long and Short stitch lessons, add Ecru to your list! I've updated the original post on materials. Sorry about that!!

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Monday, July 27, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading - My Supplies

 
If you want to join me in working through a small long and short stitch shading sampler, here's a little bit about the project and the list of supplies that I'm using....

The long and short stitch shading lessons series that I'll be posting here on Needle 'n Thread over the next several weeks will consist of a small sampler of eight elements, each focusing on a different shape.

Long and Short Stitch Lesson Design


The whole piece is a total of 7" square, which keeps the individual elements rather small. The colors above are only approximate - I doodled them in while considering color schemes and shading.

The middle section is left empty. If you decide to do the whole piece in a square as the pattern is drawn (like above), then you can use the middle to stitch your own little something, shaded. Or you can add some personal information, to document when you stitched it, etc.

You can skip the whole "square" layout, and just do each element separately, on a bit of scrap fabric. It's all up to you.

I'm working the square, as designed above.

When I'm ready to publish the lessons, you'll receive a downloadable pattern in a plain line drawing, plus a downloadable color guide like the one above, just to give you the idea of the shading, and also a downloadable stitch-direction guide.

Long and Short Stitch Lesson Threads


Here's the supply list:

1. Fabric - a 12" square of cotton - high thread count muslin (calico) is suitable - in white or natural. I used a piece of good cotton from a new pillow case that I was going to stitch, but that I messed up on when transferring the design onto it. So you can use a "scrap" if you want to conserve a bit on fabric or expense.

2. Hoop or frame - you'll want a hoop (either a 4" or 6" hoop will work). Alternately, you can use stretcher bar frames - 10" work fine, if you're working on a 12" square.

3. Needles - #10 crewel

4. Sharp Scissors

5. Pencil - I use a mechanical pencil

6. Thread: I'm using DMC stranded cotton in the following colors. You are welcome to use the same colors or change them to suit you. I've arranged the DMC color numbers in numerical order for shopping convenience, if you're going to buy threads. If you have suitable threads in your stash, though, feel free just to use those!

DMC Colors:
158, 159, 160, 161, 223, 225, 347, 349, 351, 353, 469, 471, 472, 613, 745, 814, 3011, 3012, 3013, 3052, 3855 and ECRU

I'll be presenting the lessons in a sequential order, progressing from least difficult to more difficult. The first lesson will cover setting up the project. After that, each lesson will deal with an individual element (the group within a square).

There will be at least two videos accompanying the series of lessons. Unfortunately, my software did something weird when I tried to complete the first video, so I'll be looking into that. The first video was 57 minutes long originally, edited down to 27, for the basic long and short stitch. I'll try to edit it further! Aaack!

So that's the plan! If you're interested, you can join me in the venture! If you just want to watch from the sidelines, that's fine, too! And if you aren't interested, never fear - I'll still keep up with some other content for those of you not inclined to shade!

I'm looking forward to this series - I hope you find it fun, too.

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Thursday, July 23, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons: Sneak Peek

 
Coming up on Needle 'n Thread: a series of lessons on long and short stitch shading! May I tell you a bit about it?

Long and short stitch shading goes by many names in the embroidery arena, and the long and short stitch is a vital part of many embroidery techniques. Needle painting, thread painting, shading, silk shading.... crewel work, art silk embroidery... and on and on...

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons: Sneak Peek


Despite what it's called, long and short stitch shading is a beautiful embroidery technique and it's worth learning. There's no better way in embroidery to fill a realistic-looking shape. And even if you're working a stylized design and you want to fill an area with shades of color, long and short stitch is the stitch to use for a smooth, gradual shaded fill.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons: Sneak Peek


It seems lots of stitchers are intimidated by long and short stitch. In a sense, there's good reason for that - it's usually considered a more "advanced" form of embroidery, and it's often seen in combination with "advanced" forms of embroidery (like goldwork).

Like any new skill, long and short stitch takes practice to get it, but once you start working with the technique, you'll find out a very important thing about it: it's a "forgiving" stitch, more so than many other embroidery stitches! It allows you to make corrections as you go.

The concept behind these lessons is to take you through the basics of long and short stitch. While the lessons are in stitch-a-long form, they are not focused on one finished design. (We'll save that for another time!)

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons: Sneak Peek


Instead, I will be working through a series of 8 design elements, each fitting within a space of about 2" (and the elements themselves are smaller than that!). Each element will be stitched in sequence, from basic long and short stitch filling in a box, to angled long and short stitch shading, to filling in a circle, then filling in a ribbon, then working on natural elements - from the stylized leaf, to the more realistic, to the small flower shape, to a "real" leaf, with a folded edge.

By stitching these eight elements, you will learn the anatomy of the stitching technique and its applications in basic forms. The lessons will help you get the hang of shading and will prepare you for further adventures with long and short stitch.

Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons: Sneak Peek


The lessons include materials list, design, picture tutorials, a couple videos, and, of course, text instructions (because you know I couldn't do this without incessant babbling!) The finished product, should you stitch the whole thing as I drew it, will be a small sampler of 8 elements, with a space to personalize it, leaving you with a good reference point for later work.

I've been working like a fiend on the lessons, and I'm planning to launch them soon. Look for them!

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Sunday, June 07, 2009

Last Change to Sign Up for Embroidery Kit Give-Away!

 
Tonight (Sunday, June 7th) is your last chance to sign up for my give-away - a beautiful embroidery kit from Trish Burr! If you haven't already done so, read the give-away post and follow the directions for the give-away. The winner will be drawn Monday morning, June 8th, at 5:00 am CST, so you still have a bit of time to sign up!

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Monday, June 01, 2009

China, All the Way from South Africa...

 
Last Friday, as usual, the postman dropped off the mail while I was at work. One of those little "we'll re-deliver" cards was included in among the regular collection of Junkmail and Boring Stuff. The postman had written that the sender's name was "China." All day long, I thought about that.

I like the man who delivers our mail on our street! He knows everyone and is very friendly - all very small-town-rural-ish, and that's great! Often, if he misses me in the morning but passes by later and notices I'm home, he'll stop to deliver a missed package. So on Friday, curious about "China," I waited. Alas, no postman.

Our post office keeps the screwiest hours in the world. They open after 8:00 a.m. (when everyone else in the world is already at work), and they close at 4:30 pm! Oh, but there's always lunch time to hit the post office, right? No, no - they close (completely) at 12:00 noon, until 1:30 pm, for their lunch. On Saturday, they're open from something like 8:30 - 9:45. Yes, it's all very small-town-rural-ish!

So I appreciate our postman and his kind efforts! I really do! BUT - on Friday - with "China" nagging me all afternoon, there was no sign of second delivery. WHAT WAS CHINA??? I knew I could not rest until I knew...

So, at 4:20 pm, I called the post office. The card said I could pick up the package the next day, and in the past, I've never had success trying to pick up on the same day I received that taunting card. But I thought it worth the effort to call "just in case," and... sure enough, I was rewarded! They had it in hand! They closed in 10 minutes! I rushed to the post office and got there just as they were coming out to lock the doors.

And there, in my hands, was placed a package. It didn't feel remotely like china. It didn't look as if it had come from China! Indeed, the return address was South Africa. And though I'll never quite know how China figured into the picture when the card was left at my door by the postman, I was thrilled and ecstatic that the package was from South Africa!

Because I knew what was in it! I had been waiting...

Trish Burr Embroidery Kits


A mighty collection of Trish Burr's new embroidery kits!

Trish Burr Embroidery Kits


The kits are professionally packaged in a sealed pastic sleeve, and the contents are tucked into a folded cover page that has a full-color photo of the project within on it.

Trish Burr Embroidery Kits


On the title information, you'll find the intended skill level of the kit, and I believe each levels is further categorized by the color stripes on the side of the cover.

Trish Burr Embroidery Kits


Inside each kit ordered with threads, you'll find the instruction pages, which include a supply list, a stitch glossary, a color guide, and step-by-step photos and instructions on completing the project. You'll also find the threads arranged in groups and marked clearly, separated either in bags or on hanging tabs. You'll find the fabric for the project, with the design clearly printed on the fabric. You'll find a needle. And finally, you'll find a most pleasant surprise - a practice cloth, with little design elements drawn out, for you to practice long and short stitch on! A very nice addition to each kit, I think!

Trish Burr Embroidery Kits


The instructions, as you can see above, are accompanied by a photograph of the project developing at every step of the way. Very helpful!

I'm so excited to see these kits in person!!! And now that I've seen them, I can reiterate that this is a great way to learn needlepainting, or long and short stitch embroidery! The rosebud is absolutely perfect for beginners - clean instructions, simple design, and all the perfect little touches to bring the design to life.

I cannot wait to finish my currect project so I can launch into one of these kits!

You can find Trish's kits on her website, for those of you in the USA who want to try them. For readers in the UK or Australia, check the suppliers listed on Trish's site!

Also, keep an eye out this week for my Give-Away, which will include one of Trish's kits!!!

Enjoy your Monday!

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Wednesday, May 13, 2009

WOOOHOOOO! Exciting Needlework News!

 
I can't help it! I'm really excited about this! If you've been hanging about Needle 'n Thread for a while, you know I'm a great fan of Trish Burr's design work and thread painting techniques...

In fact, if you haven't read them yet, feel free to read the articles here on Needle 'n Thread about Trish Burr and her adventures in the needlework field. You'll find some gorgeous examples of her embroidery in those articles, and you'll also discover the many reasons why I admire her and her work.

And now... the news! Prepare yourselves to be delighted and excited!

TRISH HAS KITS! And they're on her website and ready for sale! For US customers, you can e-mail Trish if you're interested in a particular kit. She accepts Paypal. For customers in Australia and the UK, she has some shop listings there, through which you can purchase the kits.

You'll find four levels of needlepainting kits: beginner, intermediate, intermediate-advanced, and advanced, presented in five different needlepainting projects. You'll also find kits available for two monogram styles.

The prices of the kits are super reasonable. You can order them without threads - with the printed fabric, full instructions and thread list, for anywhere between ZAR 85 - 105 (US $10.07 - $12.45, according to the present currency exchange rates), or you can order them with threads (combination DMC and Soie d'Alger) for anywhere between ZAR 150 - 325 (about US $17.75 - $38.45) for the needlepainting kits. The monogram kits come with the full alphabet, fine linen, and specialty threads, for ZAR 175 - 185 (US $20.70 - $21.88). Remember, exchange rates fluctuate, so those prices are approximate, based on today's currency exchange rate.

These kits will be an excellent way - I am sure of it! - to learn needlepainting from Trish. You can rest easy knowing you have an accurate design transfer (the fabric has the design pre-printed on it) and no doubt her instructions are clear and easy to learn from. If you're familiar with her books, you know this is the case! If you're just starting to venture into needlepainting, the rose bud is a perfect beginner's kit. If you've done a little but want to improve your skills, try the intermediate to intermediate-advanced kits. And if you've done a bit of needlepainting and want a new challenge - oh, you must get the kingfisher!

African Pygmy Kingfisher embroidery kit by Trish Burr


I am completely twitterpated with this bird.

The link again: Trish Burr Long and Short Stitch Embroidery Kits. Get 'em while she's got 'em - they're definitely stash worthy, too, if you don't have time for them right now!

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Friday, May 08, 2009

Embroidered Panel from a Thrift Shop

 
The other day, my sister and niece stopped in at a thrift shop (or "op shop"), and they came across this embroidered Chinese panel that they thought I might find interesting. It was only a couple bucks, so they brought it home to me.

The embroidery on the panel looks to me as if it were worked by hand, but it has that kind of mass-produced look (sweatshop work, perhaps?). I could be wrong. I'd be happy to hear what you all think.

Embroidered Chinese Panel


The frame is flimsy and cheaply made and painted. I think the embroidery is actually stuck on the board in parts. I'm going to take it apart, eventually, just to see what it's all about.

There are parts of the embroidery that I really like:

Embroidered Chinese Panel


The shading on the water fowl is magnificently done!

Embroidered Chinese Panel


The feathers and the layers of color are finely and perfectly stitched. There aren't any "carrying threads" that are typical to machine embroidery. I'm certain this is hand stitched.

Embroidered Chinese Panel


The roses up close didn't really grab me at first. The contrasts are stark and the lines a bit angular...

Embroidered Chinese Panel


But what's funny is that, from the side, they look entirely different! The silk has quite a sheen to it, too.

Embroidered Chinese Panel


The clusters of flowers and leaves below the ducks are the best part of the foliage on the piece, I think.

Embroidered Chinese Panel


And the grass and water on the pond in which the ducks are floating is really interesting. The two shades used to embroider the grass give the illusion of a reflection, and the pale grey horizontal stitches make the water look quite real.

Embroidered Chinese Panel


This little bunch of hanging buds and flowers makes a nice cluster, and I like the silvery grey in the leaves.

There are some stains on part of the piece - mostly in the foliage hanging down from the roses - but other than that, it's pretty clean.

So, what do you reckon? Shall I take it apart? I was thinking there might be parts that would be fun to salvage, recycling it into something else. Any ideas?

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Tuesday, May 05, 2009

Long and Short Stitch Musings...

 
A while (a looong while ago - as in almost 9 months ago!), I mentioned the possibility of working through an embroidery project focusing on long and short stitch. My plan was to work through a long and short stitch project, posting tutorials in the form of lessons. If you were with me back then, you can read the original post on my long and short stitch project idea to get the whole gist of it.

I can offer a million and twelve excuses why this particular embroidery project never quite materialized, but it all boils down to the little particulars of life in general, as well as a rather sanguine approach to needlework. I tend to bounce around a bit, and I get caught up in new plans and ideas with a bit too much enthusiasm before old ideas have come to fruition! (Surely you've noticed that about me by now!)

Still, the idea for this particular series lingers in my head, simmering a bit and now and then even reaching a low boil. At one point, I even sketched up a design for the project!

The reason I bring this up now, though, is because I've received a slew of e-mail over the last couple weeks, asking about long and short stitch. I can't help wondering if something long-and-short-stitch-ish is going on out there in the needlework world - a new book I haven't seen, or a new design out, or something? Why the sudden interest, I wonder? Not to disparage the glory of the stitch itself - for anyone interested in surface embroidery, it would be a natural thing to want to get this beautiful stitching technique down.

Long and short stitch on the silk sampler I never finished!


This is a little flower worked in long and short stitch on a silk sampler I have yet to finish. Long and short stitch is one of the few stitching techniques that can really achieve a nice, realistic shading.

Needle painted iris designed by Tanja Berlin and stitched by me


In fact, it was Tanja Berlin's needlepainting kits that really got me into long and short stitch. I love her needle painting projects!

Thread painting by Trish Burr


Of course, Trish Burr's various embroidery books that feature long and short stitch enchanted me as soon as they hit the market! Trish has been a very encouraging correspondent, and I really enjoy her work! I've written about Trish Burr's works and books several times here on Needle 'n Thread, and I'm excited to say that there's more good stuff coming from her in the form of kits to be released soon. I'll keep you updated on that.

After working for a couple weeks now on a counted cross stitch sampler, I'm itching to get into some needle painting again. I think the e-mails about long and short stitch have served as a bit of a prod, too.

My plan, then, is to resurrect this long and short stitch project plan. I've started taking notes and organizing short lessons, but I wanted to poll the audience to find out what people would really like to see in a series of lessons focusing on long and short stitch? The way I see it is this: I could work from the very basic, for first-timers, through more complex forms, or I could just focus on the difficulties that people experience with the technique. What's your opinion?

It's necessary at this point to mention, too, that I'm not Trish Burr or Tanja Berlin - I'm no pro! But I have learned some tricks along the way that can reduce the intimidation that newcomers might feel when facing this technique.

With the summer coming up soon, I am hoping to have more free time to really focus on some instructive projects on Needle 'n Thread. In the next couple weeks, I'll be making some extensive lists of things I hope to focus on this summer. (This is the lot of the teacher - always looking forward to summer or the next break, in order to rejuvenate!)

With this in mind, then, I'd love to hear some feedback on the following:

1. What are your thoughts and preferences on this long and short stitch idea?
2. What type of instructive articles about embroidery would you be interested in seeing on Needle 'n Thread in the upcoming months?

Thanks for your input!

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Saturday, March 28, 2009

On Embroidery Kits - Some Rambling

 
Do you use embroidery kits? The answer to this question seems to divide embroiderers into different groupings: 1. The no-never types; 2. The yes-always types; 3. The yes-but-only-selectively types. Within these categories, there are different mentalities about kits. There are, for example, the no-nevers-on-principle, who believe that kits stunt the creative process. Then there are the no-nevers-on-opportunity, who don't want to pay for kits. Then there are the no-nevers-whatsakit?, who have really never considered kits, and don't care either way about them. And the list could go on....

I belong to the 3rd category - yes, but selectively.

I have a couple embroidery kits on hand that I want to work, and I'll show some of them to you here.

Needlepainting kit from Tanja Berlin: Iris


My favorite kits so far in my needlework life have been Tanja Berlin's needlepainting kits. Through them, I've learned a lot about needlepainting! I haven't worked a kit in ages, but I've got a few of hers in my stash, awaiting the day, specifically the squirrel and a bird or two...

Summer Harvest Stumpwork Kit from Country Bumpkin


Country Bumpkin needlework kits are also among my favorites. One of my Christmas gifts this year was an order from Country Bumpkin, and included in that were two kits: a little "Summer Harvest" stumpwork kit and a needlepainting kit called "True Love" that I find downright hilarious and that I'm planning to use as a future wedding gift.

True Love Needlepainting Kit from Country Bumpkin


The differences between Tanja Berlin's kits and Country Bumpkin's kits are notable. I thought I'd point some of the differences out to you, in case you're looking for a new project to work or a new technique to learn and are thinking about starting with a kit.

Country Bumpkin Needlework Kits:

1. Country Bumpkin relies upon your owning the magazine in which the project is featured. Kits are an off-shoot of their magazine, Inspirations. The purpose of CB kits is simply convenience: the kit includes all the supplies you need to complete a project featured in one of their magazines, but it doesn't include the design or the instructions. It is simply a materials kit. If you don't subscribe to the magazine, you have the option, when you purchase the kit, of purchasing the copy that coincides with the kit. The articles in the magazine have very detailed stitch instructions, diagrams, up-close pictures, and so forth. Each magazine has many beautiful projects in it, so when you buy one magazine, you're actually getting excellent instruction on many projects, not to mention all the other interesting stitching tidbits and stories. It's a great magazine!

2. The kits (in my experience) always have PLENTY of fibers to work the project. I've never felt as if I would run out of the required thread. Whole skeins and spools of most threads are included, rather than partial skeins or bits of threads. Also, any notions required in the project are also included (buttons and so forth), as well as supplies such as interfacing, wire, etc. In short, all materials! (Note: some blanket kits do not include the fabric backing; this is always noted in the kit contents.)

3. The design is not transferred onto the ground fabric. This is something you have to do, using the design in the magazine. I was a little surprised by this at first, because when I am working from a kit, I do like to launch right in (and forego the pre-work of transferring, which is not my favorite part of a project!). However, it makes sense. Country Bumpkin's first focus is their magazine. If they sold kits with instructions and designs, it would be somewhat of a conflict of interest! On the bright side, if you are out to really learn embroidery, then knowing the ins and outs of transferring designs is an essential part of the process, so it's good for the learning curve!

4. Country Bumpkin kits ship from Australia. For those of us in the States, anything we save in exchange rates is definitely eaten up in shipping. In this regard, the kits are somewhat expensive... and shipping tends to be a bit slow. But, if you want the kits, that's part of the package!

Tanja Berlin's kits:

1. Tanja's kits come with everything you need to complete the project: instructions, design, colored photo of finished project, all diagrams, detailed stitching instructions and troubleshooting guide, all fibers, fabric, needles. She also has the option on her website of on-going consultation for stitchers working her kits, so if you run into a trouble spot, you can contact Tanja and she'll help you through it.

2. Tanja's kits contain just the amount of fibers you will need to complete the project, with a little leftover. So you don't normally get full skeins of floss or spools of threads. She organizes the threads on a color card, with each color number marked clearly next to the thread.

3. In her surface embroidery kits, the designs are already transferred on the fabric for you.

4. Tanja is located in Canada. Depending on the exchange rate (which has fluctuated quite a bit in the last couple years), if you're in the US, the kits may be slightly more expensive or slightly less expensive than the actual listing on her site. Shipping, too, is somewhat pricey, but she has lots of shipping options, so you can choose the least expensive one (though you'll probably wait a little longer for your order). Tanja ships very quickly if she is not out of town teaching (she always leaves a notice on her website if she is out of town, and tells you exactly when she'll be back...)

So those are the two kinds of kits that I have primarily indulged in over the years.

Other Types of Embroidery Kits

Roseworks Designs Embroidery Kits


I've also worked kits from Roseworks Designs. They're located in South Africa, and have some pretty kits available through retailers or ordered directly through Roseworks Designs. Their kits include fabric with the design on it, detailed stitching instructions, and a color key for Anchor and DMC colors, but they don't always include the threads. These kits were more widely available in the US, but now I can only find one online retail shop that sells them here. The other shops I knew of that sold them have since gone out of business.

Another type of kit that I've purchased but haven't worked is an Anchor Fleur de Lys teacloth. Margaret Cobleigh, however, persevered through the finish of the same kit, and graciously wrote up a whole document on how she altered the kit to make it more interesting. To see what these kits look like, you can check out her Spring Teacloth and her Strawberry Teacloth here on Needle'nThread. I have never quite gotten back to the Spring Teacloth. It has just never "grabbed" me, though I think Margaret did an absolutely stunning job on hers!

Embroidery Kits I would Like to Work

Now, there are other kits offered out there that I'm interested in, but have not had the opportunity to try.

Alison Cole's Stumpwork & Goldwork Design, Illuminated Floral


First, Alison Cole's kits. One of these days, I may indulge in a couple of those, including her Illuminated Floral stumpwork and goldwork kit (which I've mentioned before) and some of her mini Or Nué kits (the frog, gecko, and strawberry, to be precise). Though I haven't worked her kits, I assume they come with excellent instructions - her books are certainly excellent.

Thistle Threads Website


Then, there's Tricia Wilson-Nguyen, the lady behind Thistle Threads, known for her expertise in historical needlework and her current work on the Plimoth Plantation 17th-century embroidered jacket. Did you know she offers kits? They're mostly of an historical nature, and some are quite elaborate. Besides her exquisite licensed museum adaptations (part of the proceeds go towards the museums that host the original studied object), Tricia offers some limited edition kits that are neat, and many "regular" kits that are also enticing. The kits that I'm really interested in of hers are a bit out of my range, but it's inspiring to look at them, nonetheless!

Trish Burr is also working on putting together some kits, and if and when that happens, those will definitely be something I'm interested in. Her books are greatly instructive, so I'm sure her kits will be, too.

My Embroidery Kit Philosophy is pretty much this: A kit can be an excellent way to learn or polish an embroidery technique. If the kit appeals to me in some way, I am not adverse to working a kit, and actually can find great pleasure and freedom in working one. I like buying kits from specific designers (as opposed to mass-produced commercial kits such as those found on the needlework aisles in chain stores). It's a lot like making the effort to shop at a local needlework shop. Embroidery designers, writers, instructors, etc., keep the art of needlework alive - and many of them rely upon their designing and teaching for their livelihood. I don't mind supporting that at all! (when I can afford to!)

That's pretty much the way I look at kits. Do you like kits? Why or why not? Do you have favorite kit designers that you would recommend? In general, what are your experiences with kits? Please share!

Now, having said all that, I bet you think I'm heading off to get started on one of those kits. Nope - I've got "real" work (school work) to do all weekend long! No needlework for me this weekend (unless I can sneak in a wee session here and there when no one's looking!)

Have a great weekend!

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Sunday, March 08, 2009

These Would Make Terrific Embroidery Designs...

 
... but is it cheating?

You see, I just love daffodils, and I don't go outside this time of year without seeing them, and thinking, "Golly. I just love daffodils." I've never embroidered daffodils, and in fact, I've never seen them in any needlepainting kits or books... Why not, I ask! The daffodil is the Cheeriest Flower of All! And it is the harbinger of that happy season, Spring! Woe is me! Why hath the poor daffodil been overlooked??!

With such thoughts bouncing around in my head, I began to think of the daffodil as a subject for embroidery. Needle painting, of course! Sure, it could be cross stitched, it could be needlepointed - but needlepainting would do it justice!

I'm not an artist, when it comes to good sketching of realistic things. Oh, yes - I try, but ... wow. Never mind! That's one skill I'd love to have - to be able to sit down, whip out a sketch book, and produce something that looks real, with the correct proportions, shading, and so forth. Some people say it just takes practice. I think it probably takes a wee bit of specialized talent.

So, I jumped online and started looking for images, which brought me to the popular site, How Stuff Works. I don't get how this fits under the heading of "how stuff works," but they do have a section on there on "how to draw a ___ in 5 easy steps."

I bet you're thinking I sat right down and taught myself to draw a realistic daffodil in five easy steps, right? WRONG!

It's the finished product on the "how to" pages that caught my eye.

Daffodil drawing for Hand Embroidery Pattern


The finished product of the five easy steps is supposed to resemble these daffodils. Well, there they are! I figure you can print out these black and white drawings, make some adjustments if you like, play around a bit with color using pencils or watercolors, then match threads and there's a good needlepainting project!

Now, to make things really exciting, I started roving through the list of "how to" drawings and found the following plants, flowers, and fruits, all of which would make nice embroidery patterns:

Grapes

Daffodils

Irises

Poinsettias

Lily of the Valley

Daisies

Flower Arrangement

Orchid

Cacti Scene

Wheat Field

Geraniums

Lilacs

Lily

Marigolds

Palm plant

Pansies

Plant Arrangement

Poppies

Pumpkin on a vine

Roses

Strawberry and Blossoms

Tulips

African Violets

I especially like the grapes, daffodils, tulips, lilies, and strawberries. The cacti scene and the wheat field could be the beginning of a highly textured landscape piece.

All in all, it was a successful search for the daffodil. I'm afraid I probably won't be paying homage to the chipper little flower any time soon by setting it down in thread, but some day, some day...

I hope you find these drawings useful for your own embroidery projects!

In the meantime, I'm still plugging away on my goldwork iris, as well as the whitework sampler. I'll show you a bit of both of those this week!

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Thursday, February 26, 2009

Oh, The Glories of Thread Painting!

 
I noticed in answer to this month's give-away question ("what's your favorite needlework book and why?") many reader's named Trish Burr's books among their favorites. And this lead me to thinking. It seems to me (and I am open to correction on this!) that thread painting - or needle painting, or long and short stitch embroidery, or shading... whatever you wish to call it - has enjoyed in the last couple years a real boom in interest. It seems to me that three or four years ago, the technique was not as popular, and there certainly weren't as many resources available for pursuing an interest in thread painting.

Throughout the later history of embroidery - I'd say 17th c. and onwards - realistic shading in embroidery has been here, enjoying bouts of popularity. Of course, crewel embroidery employs techniques of long and short stitch shading. Then there's the "society silk" style of embroidery typical of the Victorian era through the early 20th century - a style that was all the rage, super popular, and employed similar shading techniques that we see in long and short stitch "thread painting" today. And here we are, now, in what I think is another bout of popularity in this embroidery technique.

If you've been reading along with me for a while, you know that I'm a big fan of Trish Burr's needlework and her books. Well, for those of you who are interested in the glories of thread painting, you'll be happy to know that Trish Burr has been really busy lately. Check out the following projects:

Rosebuds by Trish Burr


These rosebuds are a beginner's exercise in thread painting.

Daisy spray by Trish Burr


This daisy spray is also suitable for beginners. The style of the piece is reminiscent of Trish's latest book, Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs.

Amaryllis by Trish Burr


For beginners as well, here in an amaryllis! And finally, my favorite:

Poppy by Trish Burr


... a red poppy, a project more suited to intermediate level embroiderers who have already tried thread painting. I love the flower on this piece - the depth of color is lovely! And I also love the stem, made up of a very fine strand of Chinese silk, almost the size of a hair!

Aren't they beautiful pieces? I think they are, and I think they're perfect for learning the technique of long and short stitch shading. Trish apparently agrees, for it seems that, in the near future, she will be releasing kits for different levels of long-and-short-stitch stitchers! I'm really very excited about this! Kits like this are a great way to learn a technique!

While I haven't yet seen any of the kits in person, I can imagine that they will be very thorough in instruction, if Trish's books are anything to go by!

So there's your sneak peek on some upcoming needlework excitement! In the meantime, if you want to try your hand at needlepainting, why not take a look at Trish's website? She has a free little introductory project on there that you might have fun with.

So there's a nice little tidbit of needlework news for you! I hope you find it as exciting as I do!

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Saturday, January 03, 2009

Thread Painting Tips - a Follow Up

 
Yesterday, I touched on the topic of thread painting with one thread as opposed to two or more, showing you the difference in the way the finished project looks. Here's a follow up tip for you...

After writing yesterday's post, I heard from Trish Burr, who is well known for her many books on long and short stitch shading techniques. She is, in my mind, one of the real masters of long and short stitch shading, and, if you're familiar with her books, you will probably agree with me on that!

Trish wanted to add a suggestion. Her tip is a new idea to me, but it makes a lot of sense, and I am looking forward to trying it out on my next thread painting project, which hopefully won't be too far distant.

Anyway, here's the tip:
If the shape you are filling is large enough - try using 2 strands of thread in the first row and changing to one strand in subsequent rows. This enables you to fill the first row closely which is important because you need to have substantial stitches to work back into - but still create a fine (one strand) effect overall. I do this on all my needle painting now; it saves a lot of time.

Thanks, Trish! I can't wait to try this out!

This weekend, I'm finishing up a "little" project that I'll be sharing with you in "little" stages, as soon as I can get the finish work and final photography done. Then, I have plans! BIG PLANS! Well, the truth is, I have one more week of vacation before the school year kicks in. During that week, I'll be doing the following:

1. School work - yes, it is inevitable. I must. I've scheduled a chunk of time each day to devote to my real job, in preparation for the next semester and to finish off the last semester.

2. Stitch videos - yes, I will. I will spend at least two filming sessions next week on the list of stitches that I've compiled, in order to expand my Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches. The filming takes time, but the editing takes even more time for each stitch, so please don't expect a sudden onslaught of videos, though I do plan to be trickling in some new ones over the next couple months. One of them will certainly be that long-awaited long and short stitch video, if all goes well!

3. Project set up - any time I have time off, I like to set up at least one major project that I can devote time to in the following months. I'm planning on setting up a large-ish project that involves needlepainting and goldwork on a somewhat overdone and grand scale. Probably biting off more than I can chew, as usual. In addition, I have three small projects to set up, but no immediate deadline on any of them, so - life is good!

4. Blog catch up - I need to index a lot of new stuff on the website from the last couple months, so I'll be devoting a bit of time to re-organizing Needle 'n Thread. I'll let you know what I accomplish!

So those are my plans, which of course must be mixed in with regular real-life, daily activities. Think I can do it all? Well - you will be the first to know if I do, and even if I don't!

Have a terrific weekend!

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Friday, January 02, 2009

When Less is More in Thread Painting and Shading Techniques

 
Here's a great example of the "less is more" theory. In thread painting - which is also called needle painting, long and short stitch shading, silk shading, or many other and varied names - the smooth blending of colors and shades is what the embroiderer tries to achieve. Take a look at these two pictures, and you'll see what I mean by "less is more."

These are two versions of the same needlework kit, and both versions were stitched by Margaret Cobleigh, who kindly sent along the photos. I had mentioned her improvement of this pansy kit a while ago, but since she's getting ready to teach a class in thread painting, she dug out both photos to show her embroidery group the difference between the two projects. I thought it would be interesting to line them up together in one post, to demonstrate why, as Margaret put it, two threads are not always better than one!

Long and Short Stitch Shading on an Embroidered Pansy


Here's the first version, worked according to the kit instructions, which called for two threads in the needle while embroidering. Notice especially the lower petals of the pansy, the light shades on the outside and the black on the inside. I wouldn't look at it and call it "bad" - but it certainly isn't as smooth and blended as I expect thread painting to be. It's thick and heavy-looking and the color breaks are rather chunky.

Long and Short Stitch Shading on an Embroidered Pansy


Here's the second attempt. The only difference is that Margaret used one thread, instead of two. To see the point clearly - that one thread works better than two when you're trying to shade using long and short stitch - look especially at the middle petal on the right side of the pansy. I think it illustrates the point best. In fact, all the lower petals show very well a smooth blending of shades. Overall, the blending in the whole piece is much smoother, not nearly as chunky or heavy looking.

So there's a tip for those of you who are thinking about venturing into thread painting this year... better results are achieved with one thread! It's always tempting to double your thread when you're covering space in embroidery. After all, you'll cover twice as much space in the same stitching time if you're using twice as much thread! Well.... even if that is true, you may not be as pleased with the results! This holds true with long and short stitch shading (shown here) as well as with satin stitch. You can get a far smoother satin stitch with one thread than you can with two or more.

On another note, I realized I forgot to wish everyone a Happy New Year yesterday! But then, New Year's Day is never really the day I start the "new year" - resolutions and all that. It's still a holiday, after all! So, on this Second Day of January, 2009, please be assured of my sincere wishes for a very happy New Year to all of you. May you fulfill all your plans for this year in health and happiness.

Thank you as well for all your very kind comments on my recent weekend stitching marathon. A couple questions crept up in the comments - I'll answer those there soon.

Have a great Friday, enjoy the weekend, and I'll keep you posted on this weekend's project as I finish it! It's a fun one!

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Saturday, December 27, 2008

Learn a New Embroidery Technique - or Brush Up - or Just have Fun!

 
If you've been reading Needle 'n Thread for a while, you know I have a great love for long and short stitch and needle or thread painting techniques. The techniques of thread painting - and especially of long and short stitch - can often be intimidating to new stitchers, or even to old! It helps to delve into thread painting with a little project, and here is a perfect one to get you started.

You also know, if you've been hanging out with me for a while, that I have a great admiration for the work of Trish Burr - and this little thread painting project comes straight from her. You can find it on her website, Trish Burr Long and Short Stitch Embroidery. If you haven't seen her beautiful website - oh, do take the time! It's just a pleasure to spend time browsing there!

If the holiday crunch has let up for you, now might be the time to take up a wee little project, just for the fun of it, and perhaps to learn a new technique. Trish's free long and short stitch project is just the perfect size - it's a beautiful little pansy, and it comes with a pattern, all the supplies you'll need listed, as well as step-by-step photos as the piece is completed.

Free Long and Short Stitch Project from Trish Burr


Isn't it pretty?

Just for the sake of relaxation and something different, I thought this would be a fun weekend project - maybe something I could work on with my niece, who wants to learn the ins and outs of thread painting. But low and behold, a little needlework emergency came up on my end, and I have a "volunteer" project I must complete by this Monday night. I'll show you that, but not right now, as I've got to plan it, transfer a design and get stitching. I think the next three days will be spent embroidering - very simple line stitches of text - but I'll show it to you as I make progress on it and tell you what it's about.

Other than that, I've got another project on the books, due January 4th, that's been heaps of fun so far, but now I'm getting into the nitty gritty details, which would be fine without the Tuesday deadline hanging over my head - but that's ok. I think I work best under pressure! I'll be sharing this other project with you, too!

So that's what's going on in my life, now that the holiday crunch is over - it's just a different kind of crunch!

I hope you have a chance to enjoy the weekend and relax a bit with friends and family - Christmas isn't entirely OVER yet, you know! Now's the chance to enjoy it, really!

Have a great weekend!

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Saturday, December 13, 2008

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Carnations

 
Thanks to Margaret Cobleigh for her genius in converting this image of carnations into a design for hand embroidery. The image is taken from A Treatise on Embroidery with Twenty Color Illustrations from Original Models. Art Needlework Series No. 8 by M. Heminway & Sons Silk Company.

In the original book (which you can find online), the carnations are worked in silk in long and short stitch or thread painting techniques. The colors are gorgeous! It would be an exciting embroidery project to work on!

Margaret took the image of the carnations and traced it as a vector image (in Inkscape), so that you could view it with the outline and the colors, or just with the outlines. So I'm going to give it to you both ways here, but in jpg format, so that you can save it to your computer and print it if you like.

It's nice to have the color version as well, if you plan on stitching this project, since it gives you a good guideline for color choices and shading.

You can click the following images for slightly larger versions, and if you want them bigger or smaller, you can resize them on your computer or on a photocopier.

The first one here is the image with the color, though you can also see the outline around the image, and the addition of a few leaves.

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Carnations


And here is the line drawing to trace for a pattern.

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Carnations


Many thanks to Margaret for the pattern!

Enjoy!

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Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Hand Embroidery on a Christmas Towel: How to Successfully Frustrate Myself for No Good Reason

 
Yes, well. This Christmas Towel. Satin stitching. Long and short stitch. Sometimes, I could just kick myself!

Originally, I was supposed to be embroidering regular cotton towels with regular cotton thread in regular outline stitches for regular easy embroidered gifts. But darnit, if I didn't start filling in on this one, and now, it's taking me ten forevers to get it done!

Remember the embroidered towel I finished last week? That piece took me less than three hours of stitching. I figured at that rate, I could do (easily) two towels a week and still have time for finish work on other little projects.

But no. I had to start filling in on this one! Did you ever realize what a difference it makes, time-wise, when you start to fill in areas of stitching?

I have duly frustrated myself, but I don't want to give the project up!

So let me show you how far along I am, and then I'll tell you what really frustrates me about the whole endeavor.

Hand Embroidery on Flour Sack Towel, Christmas design, 2008


The satin stitching on the berries is done - at least, on this clump of berries (there's one more further down the design) - and all the little green satin stitch things are finished, and I've managed only one pine cone so far.

Hand Embroidery on Flour Sack Towel, Christmas design, 2008


Now, the pine cone was an interesting dilemma. It's worked in long and short stitch. Originally, I was just planning on outlining it, but once I started filling in the berries with satin stitch, it was silly to have an only-outlined pine cone! So I started experimenting with filling. I was going to work a stem stitch filling. Then I thought about a split stitch or even chain stitch filling - something that could be worked fast and somewhat loose, so it wasn't a "full" filling.

Ugh. None of those looked right.

So I resorted to long and short stitch. Then the colors became a problem. If you're just outlining something, shading isn't that important, really. But once you move into long and short stitch, colors become important, and the shading achieved by the stitching and color choices together is what makes long and short stitch look ok.

When I started, I thought I better take a look at some pine cones. What I noticed on larger, older, opened pine cones was that the tips were almost a white-ish grey, curved up, and the rest of the cone was a darker brown, and some almost blackish-brown. But on the small, closed pine cones, they're really brown - a nice brown. Not a lot of color difference in them. Just a nice woody-looking brown.

So I stuck with three shades of brown, to give the cone a bit of depth. I don't like the connection area - I guess it's the stem - up top, but that's the way the pattern was, so I ended up stitching it with two small areas of satin stitch for highlights, surrounded by a split-stitch filling in dark brown.

And that's the pine cone. Two more pine cones, one more bunch of berries!!! Remind me never to FILL IN on a TOWEL. Yes, as I mentioned yesterday when I was talking about the obvious merits of machine embroidery thread for paper embroidery, sometimes, I'm a bit slow lately!

But this is what really frustrates me - and perhaps it's just a problem with the way I'm looking at the stituation. You can tell me what YOU think:

I'm putting all this embroidery time and effort into a cotton flour sack towel.

It's not a linen table runner.

It's not a linen table cloth.

It's not even a pretty little crisp, white cotton Christmas apron.

It's a FLOUR SACK TOWEL!!!

:-) Ah, well. I'm in. So I may as well finish it! But, sheesh. Really. What was I thinking?

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Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Online Needlework Books with Really Pretty Pictures

 
The Antique Pattern Library is a real gem of a site when it comes to free online needlework books - it's an on-going effort of many to preserve old needlework books that are in the public domain. If you haven't visited the Antique Pattern Library lately, you might want to take a look at some of their new offerings, some of which I wanted to highlight here.

The books I'm looking at today are compiled by M. Heminway & Sons Silk Company. They're collections of needlework patterns and color plates. In the first book, A Treatise on Embroidery with Twenty Color Illustrations from Original Models. Art Needlework Series No. 8., published in 1910, you'll find in the first PDF a run-down on embroidery in general, with stitch instructions and so forth.

M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co, Treatise on Embroidery


As you move through the four PDF files that make up the whole book, you'll come across patterns for a variety of heirloom-type embroidery projects, as well as some gorgeous color plates of exquisite embroidery.

M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co, Treatise on Embroidery


I love, for example, this box of strawberries! Wow. You'll find instruction on working these projects, too, though the color instructions are directed towards Heminway silks, which can't be had today.

M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co, Treatise on Embroidery


As you continue to browse through this book in the different PDFs, you'll come across one beautiful piece of embroidery after another.

In the other book, Treatise on Embroidery, Knitting and Modern Lace Work, with color illustrations from original models. Art Needlework Series Number 6., you'll not only find some beautiful color plates, but you'll also find the patterns and color / stitch keys for the different pieces of embroidery featured in the book.

M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co, Treatise on Embroidery


So if you've got the time, check out these PDFs. You can download them straight to your computer if you like and browse them later!

A Treatise on Embroidery with Twenty Color Illustrations from Original Models. Art Needlework Series No. 8. by M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co., in four parts:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV

Treatise on Embroidery, Knitting and Modern Lace Work, with color illustrations from original models. Art Needlework Series Number 6. by M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co., in five parts:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V

You can also find them on the Catalog Listing on Antique Pattern Library (scroll down to the M's). While you're there, take time to browse all the other offerings - or at least bookmark the page so you can visit it frequently when you're in the mood for inspiration!

Thanks, Margaret, for the heads-up on these discoveries!

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Friday, October 17, 2008

Embroidered Christmas Ornament: Which Direction?

 
Oh golly. I'm just speeding along on this Christmas ornament (! not quite !), but I do at least have the surface embroidery well underway - maybe tonight I can finish that part! That's the plan, anyway. I've managed some satin stitch and some shading, and have developed a dilemma, if you want to take a look...

When I first designed this Christmas ornament, my plan was that it would hang on point, so it would be diamond-shaped. Then I started stitching, and a lot of things happend.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, by Mary Corbet


First, the embroidered red things - originally, they were going to be shaded long and short stitch, raised on felt. But I started that, and I thought... you know, I'm going to see what satin stitch looks like first. I have a real thing for satin stitch - I just like it a lot. So I tried the satin stitch, and I found I liked it, so I stuck with that. The red diamonds will be outlined with an edge of gold, to finish them off.

Then, I thought a lattice might look nice over the top of the satin stitch, in a lighter shade of the same colors. These colors will be repeated on the border, in an Or Nue bit. So, I did the lattice couching. I like sparkly Christmas ornaments. There's going to be stuff on here, aside from the embroidery - and in the middle of the red things, I want to put a little gold pailette. So that lattice forms the framework for a tiny pailette. If it looks ok, I'll leave it. Who knows, I might change my mind!

Now, in the longer, petal-looking areas (where the green shading has been started), I was originally going to trim down some beetle wings to fit right in there, and surround them by pearl purl.

But - I didn't like the color of the beetle wings with the color of the reds. So I scratched that altogether, and decided to do the green shading. I think I'm going to like it better!

This is the dilemma, though. On point - diamond-shaped, that is - see the direction of the red diamonds and the lattice? It's looking rather square, isn't it?

But if I turn the ornament to be hung squarely, look what happens to the red diamonds and lattice:

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, by Mary Corbet


I think I like the red diamonds better this direction!

So here's my question: Which direction should the ornament hang? Perhaps it's a little early to decide - maybe it will be easier to decide once all the green shading is finished. But I want to make a "final" decision on this dilemma before I begin the layers of goldwork around the outside, since I think the direction the ornament is to be hung will change the approach I take to the various colors....

What do YOU think? Any preference? Any insight to the look of the design, or to the way it will hang if hung as a square instead of a diamond?? Let me know your thoughts!!

I hope you have a terrific weekend!

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Saturday, October 11, 2008

Projects in Planning Stages

 
I have two needlework projects in various stages of planning right now. One is a Christmas ornament and the other is the Long and Short Stitch sampler. Let me show you what I'm doing, discuss a bit about designing, and then tell you where I'm going next.

If you're like me, designing your own needlework project is a bittersweet sort of adventure. The sweet side is the satisfaction - it's nice to design and execute your own work, from scratch to finish.

The bitter side is that it can be somewhat intimidating. First, there's the question of "What"? I often suffer from writer's block at the designing table. That's why I think it's a good idea to doodle, and even to keep track of your doodling in a sketchbook or journal. Before doodling, you might want to get the juices flowing. You can flip open books and take some inspiration from what you see, or you can go outside and see what's weird and wonderful in Nature. Somehow, you want the juices to flow, but at some point, you have to get it down on paper.

If you were taking a writing course, you'd be told to "brainstorm" or "list" - just plain start writing down anything that comes to mind, in order to get ideas out. For designing a project, the equivalent is doodling. Start doodling.

Once you have an idea, there are other intimidating factors to designing your own piece of needlework. There's the question of "acceptability." Sure, I like it - but will anyone else? Then there are the "professional" questions to take into consideration, too: form, order, line, color, texture - all that kind of stuff. For some people, that comes second nature. For people who are artistic, those questions may not pose a problem. For me, they do pose a problem, so I generally end up ignoring them, at least at first. My work probably suffers for that...!

If you're interested in designing your own embroidery piece, you might want to check out a helpful article titled "Taking the Fear out of Designing" by Sue Stause. I think it's a helpful, interesting, and informative article, though I probably don't do everything she suggests. (My work probably suffers for that, too...!)

I'm not a professional designer - as I've mentioned before, I'm a hobbyist, not really an "artist." I'm not formally trained for designing, drawing, color selection, and so forth. So, being the average Jane Doe when it comes to this type of thing, I just sort of work out things that I think will work out. And then I tweak and polish, just like a writer does with a rough draft.

After various doodles, this is what I've come up with for a long and short stitch sampler.

Design for a Long and Short Stitch Sampler


I suppose it looks a little more complicated than it is supposed to be. That's another fault of mine, when it comes to designing. I tend to go overboard instead of adhering to the KISS - Keep it Simple, Stupid - rule.
The concept was to arrange, in seven stages, different levels and approaches to long and short stitch shading, progressing from geometric shapes to natural elements, following in order of level of difficulty. The whole thing is 8" x 8", and each element is generally within the 1 - 1.5 inch range, so small enough to stitch in (hopefully) one sitting.

The next project I'm working on is a Christmas ornament. I oscillated between using someone else's design and making up my own, but the latter finally won out. This was a project that drew a blank for me for a long while. I knew the look I wanted, but couldn't figure out how I wanted it to come across. Many doodles later, I think I've settled on an idea, but I think there will be a lot more tweaking to come.

Christmas Ornament Design in the Works


The ornament will be a combination of goldwork and silk shading. There's still a bit of tweaking to do there.

The next step on the Long and Short stitch sampler is to work on color ideas. This particular project is not really a "wing it" sort of project since I want to use it for instruction. It'll take a lot more time at the design table.

For the Christmas ornament, though, with the basic shape in place, I'm actually ready to set it up for stitching. I know that sounds rather silly, considering I haven't exactly figured out what I'm going to do where, but... that's ok. I have enough of an idea that I can wing on this small project.

Do you like to design your own embroidery projects? Or would you prefer for someone else to do the designing for you? If you do like coming up with your own designs, how do you go about doing it? What's your favorite designing medium?

Any suggestions and tips are always welcome - not just for me, but for others out there who may have that deep down desire to design, but who are too intimidated to go for it! Maybe you know something that will help the rest of us!!

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Saturday, October 04, 2008

The Artist's Touch: Long and Short Stitch Shading

 
If you're like me, when you look at a piece of thread painting (also called needle painting, long and short stitch shading, etc.) that's really well done, you can find yourself lost in the details, color contrasts, individual stitch placement, and all the elements that work together to make the piece a work of art. Thread painting, when done by a true artist, is a source of delight and awe for me. This is certainly the case with this very special gift I received in the mail this week.

Much to my delight and suprise, a package arrived for me halfway through the week. Can you imagine how excited I was to see an envelope arriving from Trish Burr in South Africa? She sent me one of her own works of art!

I want to show it to you up close.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


This is the piece. You can be that I'm going to frame it and hang it in a prominent place of honor!

What particularly amazes me about the finished piece is how the contrasting colors work together to make the whole piece come alive. The colors in the piece, on each element - whether flower petal, leaf, or bud - are really amazing.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


The flower moves from a bright white on the tips to a deep purple in the center, but that depth of color is achieved not just with the plum colors. Looking closely, you can see browns interspersed that give shadow and dimension to the petals.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


If you look in the lower right corner of the above photo, you can see the brownish greys in there, shadowing the petal above.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


In the leaves, you can see the same - the turnings on the leaf are made real by the masterstroke of the artist's 'brush' (a needle and thread, in this case), placing just the right color at just the right spot.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


Look at the perfect stitch direction in every element!

Embroidery by Trish Burr


Each row of stitches works perfectly into the next, blending the colors together.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


All the details - the little white flower accents, the sprays of tiny leaves and bullion knots, the round buds - are fascinating.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


These tiny buds have no less than four colors in that small space! The edge of the embroidery is smooth and slightly raised.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


The white flowers with their little golden centers seem to pop up from the picture.

Embroidery by Trish Burr


Step back and look at the whole piece - the artist's touch brings the embroidery to life!

Oh boy. I don't grow tired of looking at pieces like this, do you? I look in wonder, and then I remind myself that I have a heck of a lot to learn!

Thank you, Trish, for your gift! It's a treasure!

If you're interested in learning long and short stitch shading from a master, do check out Trish Burr's books on the topic. She has three of them: Long and Short Stitch: A Collection of Flowers; Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery; and her latest, Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs (in which you will find the project for the piece I've shown you above).

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Sunday, September 21, 2008

I want to Embroider a Face

 
I want to embroider a face. I've never done it before. I want to learn how. But every time I face the task of preparing to do so, I falter! Why? I'm not sure... but, still, I want to embroider a face. Let me show you what I have in mind.

I'm working on (or getting ready to work on) an ecclesiastical piece of fairly largish proportions. It's riddled with faces. In fact, yesterday I sat for about half an hour, chin in hand, staring at the thing, and contemplating which faces to erase. There are just too many, and I've never embroidered a face.

But I want to embroider a face!

I mean, really! How hard can it be???! And why does it intimidate me?

Take a look at this picture below. It's a close-up on an embroidered face on an ecclesiastical piece. The face itself, in the context of the piece, is probably 2.5 to 3 inches long. I've left it large, so you can click on it to see a much bigger image.

Hand Embroidered Face: Virgin Mary in Ecclesiastical Embroidery


Up close, it's interesting, isn't it? Check out the stitch direction, the color changes, the outlines around the eyes, the chin, the lips, etc.

But if you're looking at it the large size, it may not really strike you as "quite right," as it doesn't look smooth or even beautiful, really. The eyes look kind of bulby, the bottom lip looks kind of square, the face (especially on the left) looks flat ..

But look at it from farther away:

Hand Embroidered Face: Virgin Mary in Ecclesiastical Embroidery


And from even farther away:

Hand Embroidered Face: Virgin Mary in Ecclesiastical Embroidery


The shading around the eyes is nice, isn't it? And the lips look right, now, don't they? And the left side of the face, which looks so flat and linear in the close-up, looks fine. The chin line and the neck shading blend to look dimensional.

I want to embroider a face like this!

This is my problem: I sit down to work out the picture, and it ends up looking like a cartoon. Somehow, I can't bring myself to transfer the drawning - I don't want to embroider a cartoon!

I wasted a lot of time yesterday trying to figure out how to approach this. Finally, I gave up and went back to my goldwork, which couldn't keep my interest because I was still engrossed in the face thing. So I pitched the goldwork (well, not literally), and didn't do anything needlework related the rest of the day.

Do you ever have a needlework idea or plan that eats away at you? This one eats away at me - I've been toying with it for years, thinking seriously about it for months, and obsessing over it for weeks. Yesterday was to be the day. But I quit! What does that say about me????

I finally came to this conclusion:

So what if it looks cartoonish? So what if the colors aren't "just right"? So what if it actually flops and looks like... garbage? So what?! What's the big deal? Wasted time? No - I'd be learning. Learning is never a waste of time. Waste of materials? Have you seen my stash cabinets? That's not even remotely an excuse!

Oh, dear! Could it be.... fear of failure? Heh heh. Wellllll...

You don't know, until you try! And that holds true not just for any embroidery technique or needlework project - that holds true for anything. You don't know, until you try.

So with renewed determination, I will begin this afternoon.

I am going to embroider a face.



Um....


if it turns out great, you'll be the first to know!






If it flops,


I might admit it... some day...




maybe....


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Friday, September 19, 2008

A Message from Trish Burr to the Book Give Away Participants

 
Trish e-mailed me and asked me to pass on the following message to all who participated in the Book Give-Away this past week....

The idea for this particular give-away came about because Trish e-mailed me to ask about a topic for her next book, to see if I could "poll" readers to find out which of two topics they would be more interested in. You can read all about those two prospective topics on the original post, if you didn't have a chance to catch it earlier. Besides just polling the audience, I thought it would be a good idea to have a drawing for a copy of Trish's last book, since I have two copies on my shelf.

So it worked out well for both of us - I could do another reduction contest, and Trish could find out what needleworkers out there thought of her two subjects.

Here's Trish's message to all who participated:

Hello everyone!

Thank you all so much for taking the time to respond to the book question, I really do appreciate all your valued input and am overwhelmed with the response. I have had a wonderful time this week reading your sincere and interesting responses, and the suggestions and advice will all be taken into consideration when I make my final decision. This will have to be a surprise (hopefully a good one)!!

When I completed the last book I said "no more, this is the last", but as a result of your enthusiasm I feel encouraged to get going again! It is important to me that each publication is something that is needed and helpful - being self taught from books myself I understand how essential it is to have clear and complete instructions. I will certainly do my best to put myself in your shoes and that which ever book gets published will incorporate some of the subject matter that you would like to see.

Congratulations to Freda Butler for winning the book give away, I hope that you enjoy it. I would love to give you all a free book but would probably end up in the poor house!

Happy stitching to you all.
Trish Burr


Thanks, Trish, for the opportunity to let people pitch in with their thoughts!

Enjoy the rest of your Friday and have a great weekend! I have a couple project plans this weekend, so I'll keep you up to date on those. I'm also reading a good book (on needlework) that I thought I'd tell you about. But I need to read a little more of it to be able to really tell you about it!

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Goldwork Project: I Learned a New Technique

 
I think I mentioned in my carrot post that, among my present line-up of needlework projects, I've got a small goldwork project I'm working on as a wedding present for my niece.

I can safely mention the wedding present thing, by the way, because no one in that branch of the family would ever even think of looking at my website....! So don't worry that I'm giving away a surprise!

Back to the project...

As I mentioned before, I'm not able to blog about the whole goldwork project right now, or even show you complete pictures. But I wanted to show you a technique that I've never used before, that I learned while working on this particular project. I think the resulting look is really beautiful - perhaps you'd like to try the technique, too.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


See the edge on the embroidered area there? Nice, isn't it? This is a "non-traditional" goldwork technique. I've seen it before, but never used it, and didn't really know what it was all about. But it's simple, and I think it's ever-so-pretty - but then, I'm a sucker for gold and for anything that looks like a twist!

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Incidentally, I was already working on this project when the A-Z of Goldwork arrived. They describe this technique in detail in the book, and some variations on how to work it. I'm just going to cover one here.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


You start with a piece of pearl purl - this is a hard metal thread wound in a tight spring. Usually, when you couch it, you couch with gold-colored couching thread, slipping the thread between the coils in the spring. Pearl purl makes a beaded-looking outline, and it's very pretty. It's also very stiff and very hard, so make sure you're using scissors assigned only to cutting metal threads! This is pearl purl #1.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Stretch the pearl purl to about twice its length. Now, pearl purl won't return to its original twist once its stretched - you can't un-stretch it. To stretch it, grasp the two outermost beads on the cut of pearl purl you're stretching, and pull with an even tension.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Here, you can see the two pieces next to each other - the original pearl purl on top, and the stretched pearl purl below it.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Then, take your floss. Here, I'm using four strands of Au Ver a Soie's Soie d'Alger. Strip the floss in the normal method and put it back together.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Leaving a length (about an inch) of floss hanging off the end, wind the floss around the stretched pearl purl, so that it tucks in between the gold. This part's actually really easy - it just slips right into where it belongs as you turn the thread. It may be tempting to just hold the pearl purl in your finger and roll it, allowing the thread to work into the grooves of the twist, but I noticed this twists up the thread quite a bit. It looks better if you do the twisting with the actual thread, not with the gold.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Continue wrapping the thread around the gold until the whole piece of wire is wrapped, and leave a tail of your floss at the end. I actually just left the whole length of floss at the end. It gave me something to hold onto while couching, so I didn't have to touch the gold much.

Couch the pearl purl / floss combo onto your project using the same thread used to wrap the coils. Use one strand. I couched at each wrap, so that the thickness and look of the wraps was even all around.

Alternately, you could use the large bundle of thread as your couching thread (or one piece of perle silk or cotton), and couch between each stretched wrap on the pearl purl. But I tried that, just for kicks. It's easy enough, but it seemed easier to me to get full coverage - a complete "look" - around the pearl purl by wrapping it first.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


So - there's an easy and really pretty edge treatment for your future goldwork projects. I'm sure lots of embroiderers out there into goldwork already knew about it, but, for those that didn't - like me, you can delight in a new technique!

Don't forget that tomorrow morning, I'm drawing a winner for Trish Burr's book. If you haven't commented on that post yet and would like the opportunity to win a book on needlepainting by one of today's foremost designers in threadpainting / crewel embroidery techniques, do check out the book give-away and leave a comment answering the question posed in the post.

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Monday, September 15, 2008

Long and Short Stitch Project Idea - What do You Think?

 
One of the most frequest questions I get regarding my video library of hand embroidery stitches is "when are you going to post a long and short stitch video?" And I think that's a very good question... and here's my answer!

I've tried to make a good video on long and short stitch - actually, I've tried it several times. But I haven't been very satisfied with the results. The way I see it is this: long and short stitch is more than just a stitch. It's a technique. And there's quite a difference, you know!

For example, right now I'm editing two stitch videos (well, right now, I'm typing a blog post - but you get my drift...). In less than four minutes each, with a slow-moving, up-close video of the embroidery stitch, I can explain to you all the moves in the stitches, and then I can repeat them for you several times, so that you get it. No biggie.

But with long and short stitch, it's a bit different. It's more than "moves" - stitch angle, length, depth, color change, etc. are all important when considering long and short stitch. And to get this across in a video alone is somewhat difficult. And long and short stitch is not usually isolated - it's usually combined with other stitches to make the whole design or picture. Needle painting, thread painting, soft shading techniques - whatever you want to call it - uses more than just long and short stitch.

Sooooooooooooooo.... to make the long story short....

What I was thinking about doing is a kind of stitch along lesson or project, only you don't have to stitch along if you don't want to - and once the lessons are posted, they'll always be here, so you can always pick them up or put them down whenever you want.

But my thought was to take a simple pattern from here on Needle 'n Thread, repost it in a cleaned up version as "step one," and then to go from pattern to completion, with all the steps in between - coloring the pattern; marking stitch direction, shading spots, etc.; deciding on stitches, selecting supplies and making a list; preparing materials (including pattern transfer), and then the stitching - through the whole project - step-by-step - accompanied by several videos, and lots of photos, to work through the whole technique.

The individual lessons would be far enough spaced (not posted every day - I'm thinking once a week) that anyone who wanted to stitch along would have time to gather supplies, catch up on each step, etc., without having to really break your regular routine much. And we'd work in small-ish increments.

It would not be a complicated project - something simple and not too dimensional, to show how the basic techniques of thread painting work.

And finally, I'd post a photo gallery of the finished projects, if people wanted to share them.

But I thought I'd poll the audience for your thoughts on this:

1. Is it something stitchers would be interested in?

2. Is it something that people would actually stitch along with simulataneously? Or do you think people would prefer to watch the lessons unfold, just to see what they're like, and then take them up if it grabs their interest?

3. Is it something other readers who aren't interested in the technique might get bored with, when they see the lessons popping up regularly?

4. Do you see any pitfalls or anything that I might be missing? My personal biggest pitfall will be the time involved, but that's something I can overcome with planning and organization. But is there anything else I'm missing?

Let me know you're thoughts - are you interested?!!

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Saturday, September 13, 2008

Needlework is my Carrot

 
Now that I finished the embroidery on "Breath of Spring," and with the busy school year underway, I want to line-up my next needlework projects so that I don't have to focus so much on set-up, and so that I always have a "carrot." You do use needlework as a carrot, don't you?

For me, needlework is absolutely a carrot - it is my inducement to get myself to perform (whether household tasks, job-related activities, whatever) so that I can embroider with a clear conscience. Basically, I do what I have to do so that I can do what I want to do. That's not to say that everything besides needlework is drudgery; on the contrary, I like my job and I like doing other necessary things that relate to normal living. I always find, though, that if I have a goal (get this done now so I can do that later), I work with more energy and focus.

Do you want to know what my carrots are right now? Well - here they are:

First, I'm working on a goldwork project - a small project that's a lot of fun so far. I'm giving it to my niece for her wedding in November. I would like to have it finished by the end of next week, which isn't impossible. I've done all the silk shading, and now it's just a matter of the goldwork.

Goldwork with Silk Shading: project in the works


This is a picture of part of the project. I can't blog the whole thing right now, as the project isn't really "mine." Once it's published, I'll show you my finished work and tell you about it at length. But don't you love the colors so far?

Goldwork with Silk Shading: project in the works


Here's a little shot showing you how a vine is narrowed using gold passing thread. The vine is originally two pairs of passing thread (gold passing thread is generally couched in pairs). Then, about halfway around, I plunged one thread (half of a pair), and then a bit later, another thread, to narrow the vine to only one pair of passing threads. I think the designer was ingenious with this little touch.

After this is finished, I'll move on to beginning my Pelican.

Pelican of Mercy in Needlepoint or Canvas Work


This is the piece that I bought the threads for on my recent shopping venture. It's painted on 18 ct. canvas and the whole thing will be worked in tent stitch. The canvas was designed and painted by Judy of Possibilities, etc. I've had it for a while, and had every intention of starting it last spring, but, amazingly enough, I never had a chance to go shopping for threads until just a few weeks ago.

Pelican of Mercy in Needlepoint or Canvas Work


I don't plan to stitch the whole piece in one sitting. (Oh, no kidding??) Actually, it's going to be an on-and-off piece, for something to stitch on now and then, between projects and whenever I'm on a needlepoint roll. I don't think I would enjoy glutting myself entirely on tent stitch for months until this is finished. I'm looking forward to working it.

My next little project is going to be BABY BOOTIES. I'm excited about this one!!!! I'm going to make a couple sets of little baby booties out of wool felt (I think I'll try some different lining ideas, though - like lining them with flannel, or, for cold weather, perhaps fleece?). They'll be embroidered, of course, and I hope they turn out cute. I've got a pattern set from McCall's (pattern #2867).

McCall's Baby Booty Pattern


I've also found some cute patterns online. I especially like this Bitty Booties pattern from Heather Bailey Designs (PDF). You'll find it on her blog Hello My Name is Heather.

I've also been in the process of designing a really ambitious project.

Sketched Design for Ecclesiastical Embroidery


It's ecclesiastical embroidery and will feature mostly silk shading and goldwork. The design is still in the works, and it's really l-a-r-g-e. I still have some sketching to do on it, like finishing the angels in the arm of the cross:

Sketched Design for Ecclesiastical Embroidery


My plan is to break the design down into workable elements that will be appliqued together onto the main ground fabric. This is a whole new adventure for me - at least on this scale. I'll definitely be keeping you posted on this project's development. If I flop or just give up, you'll be the first to know!

For light work this winter, I've got a couple of Tanja Berlin's kits still - the squirrel and a bird, I think. So it's likely I'll set those up for stitching.

And between these projects, for more immediate purposes, I'd kind of like to make a stack of Christmas cards before the end of November rolls around. I'm thinking about getting some kids together - or at least a couple of my nieces - and doing a kind of group card-making session or four on Saturday afternoons.

All this is fun stuff and really exciting to me. But the reality is that, as much as I'd like to have all these projects underway with a certitude that I could finish them this winter, I know it will not be likely that I'll get them all done. Oh, the ecclesiastical piece will take years, I know. But it's nice to have stitching goals for the fall and winter months, even though I know that my real job is going to be taking the bulk of time. Still, I do plan to stitch, and stitching always makes a Really Good Carrot for me. If I do my work like a good girl, then I can settle into some serious needlework!

Is embroidery your carrot? Do you make up stitching goals for yourself? If you do, how many projects do you have on the burner? (Or at least stewing in your head?) In short, how do you go about planning and executing your stitching adventures? Maybe if we share ideas on this, we can all become more efficient with our time and our approach to our projects!

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Friday, September 12, 2008

Book Give-away, and a Question!

 
I happen to have an extra copy of a pretty nice book that I think you might want (for you - or maybe as a gift for someone else?)... so I thought I'd do a little give-away and ask you a Very Important Question!

The book is Trish Burr's recently published Crewel and Surface Embroidery book, which I've reviewed here on Needle 'n Thread.

Trish Burr: Crewel and Surface Embroidery


This is a gorgeous book! And if you've wanted to tackle long-and-short stitch shading but are perhaps intimidated by the techniques, this book will help you overcome your intimidation. The floral projects are arranged in order of ease, from beginning to advanced. For more details on the book, feel free to read my review.

Now, to be eligible to win, you have to answer a question in the comment section below. To do this, you scroll down to the bottom of this post (on the website, not on the newsletter) and click the link that says "Click to Comment" under the "Posted by" information.

The question is posed by Trish Burr this time, not by me. It isn't too often that, as a consumer, you get a chance to give input on what you'd like to see in a book, but here's your opportunity. Trish is gearing up for a new book, and she's exploring two options:

1. Needle Painting Basics:
This would be a guide to stitching flowers, birds, animals, people etc. How to direct your stitches for the different type of motifs, how to choose the right picture for reproduction etc etc. It would be aimed at the beginner and beyond but might also be helpful to the advanced needleworker.

OR

2. Color blending for Embroidery:
This would help the reader to choose color combinations for shading in embroidery. It would be made up of sections on each color e.g. red, blue, yellow etc and each section would show a number of combinations that could be used for each color scheme from the color chart. The idea behind it would be that the reader would learn to enhance their needle painting (or any other needlework projects) by the correct use of color. The color combinations would be visual and listed by number so that they could refer to it for future projects, and the book would contain sample projects worked in various color combinations. The book would apply to long and short stitch, but also to other techniques where shading and color blending are required.

The question is: which would you prefer, and why? or which do you think general audiences would prefer and why?

Leave a comment below, and your name will be entered for the drawing, which will take place next Friday (September 19) at 4:00 am (the deadline). The drawing is open to all readers around the globe.

It's probably not too often that you can give input on a book and voice your preference! So speak up - don't be shy.

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Thursday, August 14, 2008

Beautiful Embroidery Website you Won't Want to Miss!

 
Guess who has published a new embroidery website? Read on, and I'll tell you....

Trish Burr has published a website - but it's not just "any" website. It's really pretty!

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery Website


The site promises a free project, too - so that's something to keep an eye on while it's being developed.

What's really nice is Trish's gallery. You can see thumbnails of her work and click on them for larger versions. The larger versions are wonderful - you can see the individual stitches, which is great for developing an understanding of stitch direction and color combinations.

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery Website


If you want to know a little bit more about Trish, you can read the article I posted on her and her book publishing adventures. The article is in two parts: Trish Burr, part 1, and Trish Burr, part 2. You'll see some of her works in the articles, too, but you can see them Even Better on her website!

Trish is a master at the whole long-and-short stitch / thread painting technique. Her works are featured in Country Bumpkin's Inspirations Magazine, and she's published four books, three of which are on long and short stitch techniques. If you're interested in this form of embroidery, but have perhaps been intimidated by its look of complexity, you may just be inspired enough by looking at Trish's work to plunge on in!

While you're browsing about, then, do check out Trish Burr online - you're bound to be impressed!

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Monday, May 26, 2008

Crewel and Surface Embroidery Book Review

 
I'm so excited!! I received a copy of Trish Burr's new book, Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs, and I've had a chance to look it over carefully and absorb some good tips and insights about thread painting (long and short stitch) techniques. So here's my review of the book...

Crewel and Surface Embroidery by Trish Burr is one of three books she's written on the subject of long and short stitch techniques. This third book is exquisite in a number of ways: first, the presentation - it's a beautiful book, with clear photos and diagrams and a nice print layout.

Trish Burr: Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs


Second, the projects are exquisite: stunning flower arrangements in various color schemes that would suit any embroiderer's preferences for color.

Third, the detailed explanations and directions, as well as the tips and tricks before beginning and along the way, are perfect for any level of embroiderer. Even if you've never worked any long and short stitch techniques or done any soft shading, you will be able to with this book. If you've been intimidated by thread painting techniques, your trepidation will melt away if you read Trish's tips and follow her advice while working through the project.

Trish Burr: Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs


Fourth, whether you like floral designs or not (some embroiderers might not be "into" floral motifs), the information in this book will translate to any kind of thread painting project - whether figure embroidery (people and their clothes) or scenery, or even animals. Really, the book is about shading and how to add dramatic and subtle contrasts with different colors and shades in order to produce a realistic and appealing picture.

Some of the best points of the book:

1. The section on tips for working the designs. This comes at the beginning of the book, and is an itemized list of pointers for executing the designs. The points, however, apply to all kinds of needlework projects. You'll find advice about transfering your designs, the order of embroidery, thread choice, etc.

2. The section called techniques, where Trish covers everything from the grain of the fabric to completion of a project (that dreaded finish work!) - blocking, mounting, and so forth. Again, all this information is applicable to any embroidery project.

3. The section on practice motifs, step-by-step. This is a gem of a resource for anyone interested in thread painting. Trish takes the reader step-by-step through common motifs from the simple petal, to the petal with a turned edge, to the simple leaf, to the leaf with highlights. She gives details on working each motif, along with pictures showing the development of the motif.

4. The projects themselves: These are arranged from smaller and simpler to larger and more complex (beginner to advanced). Each project is accompanied by a thread key, a color photo of the completed project, an outline drawing (to use as your pattern), a line drawing with directional lines marked in (to use as a guide), and a watercolored sketch-up to help see clearly where the shades change. In the first several projects, very detailed instructions are given for every step of the way. Later in the book, the instructions are still detailed enough, but not as detailed. As you become more proficient with the basic techniques of shading and so forth, the minute details are not as necessary.

Trish Burr: Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs


Comparing this book to her other two on similar subjects (Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers and Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery), I like this one best as far as information goes. I think I prefer the style of flowers in Redoute and Long and Short Stitch (they are more "natural" in their presentation, rather than arranged in sprays) over the style of flowers in this book. Yet, despite that preference, this book the best of the three (in my opinion) as far as teaching the technique is concerned. Everyone's tastes differ, though - you may prefer these projects to those presented in the other books. Certainly, the projects in this book are more suitable for a "whole presentation" effect. They would look complete, for example, on a pillow cover or framed. The flowers in the two previous books are somewhat isolated.

If you want to see some of Trish's work - including projects in this book - check out Part I and Part II of my recent interview information from Trish.

So that's the book! You can pre-order it through Amazon, or, if you can't wait to get it, you can order it now through Sterling Publishers.




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Thursday, May 08, 2008

Trish Burr, Needlework Publishing, and More, Part 2

 
Yesterday, I covered the first part of Trish Burr's "interview" (really, her introduction notes for a class she is teaching), and featured some of her beautiful embroidery. I'd like to share with you the rest of her story and a couple more photos. If you haven't read the first half of her story or seen the photos of her work, do check them out! In the meantime, on to Part 2 of Trish's story.

I'm going to let Trish do the "talking" here and keep my big mouth shut! Enjoy!

The next book was Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers, published in 2006. In 2004, we decided to make the move to Cape Town, so along with packing boxes and the new school uniforms came the plans for the next book! I decided to do a book on the technique of long and short stitch. I had begun a master craftsman course with the EGA so that I could teach when we got to South Africa, and it became apparent from my students that people were nervous of long and short stitch, so I resolved to make it plain. The publishers were not keen on text books; they wanted another project book, so I decided to combine the two.

I remembered how frustrated I had felt with the instructions in the books that I had learnt from. They give you the basic outline but left out those vital tidbits like how to achieve a smooth blending or what to do when working a difficult shape, so I spent the next two years researching this technique. I got onto my e-mail and contacted experts from all over the world who were kind enough to pass on their pearls of wisdown.

I tried to put myself in the shoes of someone who would be trying to learn from this book and decided to cover every aspect of long and short stitch from beginning to advanced.

There seemed to be a lot of confusion in the different interpretations, such as silk shading, soft shading, needle painting, etc. The Chinese used the hidden stitch method for hundreds of years, but the Western world has adapted this by splitting the yarn, and this is the commonly used technique today.

Project Featured in Crewel and Surface Embroidery by Trish Burr

Long and short stitch is used to fill a shape with softly blended colours. If you are using it for Jacobean work or decorative surface stitching, it is usually used to shade from, say, pale pink to dark pink, but if you are using it in needle painting for a realistic effect, it is quite different and becomes more like staggered satin stitch.

When I was doing Redoute, I used padding to give a realistic 3-D effect, but I have changed my thoughts on this and now use contrast in color to give the same effect. This is a much simpler and faster way to work.

The first 50 pages of this book [Long and Short Stitch] tells you everything you need to know about the technique with step-by-step guidelines and a troubleshooting section, and then there are 21 projects from beginners to advanced. The paintings for the projects were used with permission from various Botanical artists. The book was reviewed and endorsed by Sally Saunders of the Royal School of Needlework before it was published and is now the text book for my classes.

The last book was Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Ideas. When the publishers asked me to come up with another title, I was lost for ideas - I supposed you could say I had writer's block. My long suffering family supported my efforts as I ploughed through books, paintings, and the internet trying to come up with novel ideas.

By now I had joined the Helderberg embroidery guild and became aware of all the wonderful ways that embroidery could be expressed...

Thread painting: bird by Trish Burr, worked in one strand of DMC / Anchor cotton

Space dyed and variagated threads were becoming very popular, but I was convinced that these could not be used for long and short embroidery... However, I proved myself wrong and found a way of incorporating some of the softly blended space dyed threads into long and short stitch.

I came across some decorative painting pictures of floral sprays by Gretchen Cagel in the US and with her permission based my designs on these. The result was a mix of thread painting and Australian wool embroidery. I combined wools, silks, and cottons together and created semi-realistic floral bouquets. The designs are fun to do and not too taxing!

There are three sections [in the book], one for beginners, intermediate, and advanced. Each section has step by step instructions and lists DMC and Appleton wool alternatives for all the threads used. This book has just been released...

From Trish Burr's new book on Crewel and Surface Embroidery, worked in a combination of wools, silk, and cotton

A Bit on Book Publishing: Publishing has advanced dramatically in the last few years and I have had to keep up with these demands by learning computer illustrating and photographic editing. Books have become more visually oriented with enlarged photographic details and computer drawn illustrations that are lifelike. The reader wants fewer words and more pictures. Fortunately, the publishers have a professional who photographs the finished stitching because I am hopeless at taking photographs - I generally chop off people's heads or shoot the background instead!!

Editing: There is a specialist editor who proof reads my work and goes through the project instructions with a fine tooth comb, so I don't need to know how to spell! I do all the stitching and instructions myself and am required to do a minimum of 17 projects for a book. I am given advance payment which covers the cost of my materials. The entire process from start to delivery of the manuscript takes about a year and then another 6 months for editing and printing.

Sales: I have nothing to do with the sales of the book. The publishers distribute the book worldwide through their agents - although we do seem to have some problems in this regard to South Africa. If an author is lucky enough to go into a reprint in the first three months, it is considered to be selling well and there is always a chance that it could be translated into other languages, in which case the book exceeds its estimated print life. My last book was translated into Russian and Polish (not the upper scale of the market, but nevertheless....)

Royalties: I get a token royalty on each book that is sold. It is hard work and the returns are modest: it certainly doesn't pay the bills, but there is something to be said for seeing all that hard work in print and knowing that what you set out to do has been achieved and will hopefully benefit others.

I would like to conclude by saying that books are a wonderful way of sharing your knowledge with others. We need to keep hand embroidery alive, and if we can't share our ideas, if we hug them to ourselves, then they become lost and are worthless in the future.

If I give you a present, then I no longer have the gift - you do. But if I give you an idea, then we both have it - and if you give it to someone else and they share it with others, we have multiplied that idea.

If any of you have an idea to share, consider writing a book - you never know where it might lead you!


And there you have Trish's words on where she's been and how she got there! I hope you enjoyed reading her take on publishing needlework books, her tidbits of information on techniques, and her beautiful project samples as much as I did!



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Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Trish Burr on Embroidery Books & More, Part 1

 
If you like needle painting, surface embroider, crewel work, and any shading techniques used in surface embroidery, you're bound to admire Trish Burr's needlework. Even if you don't like any of the above (?!?!), you will still be astounded by Trish's artistry. I've admired Trish's books since they first came out, and have learned heaps from them. Her work is stunning. She's published a total of four books so far on embroidery, and she's also been featured in Inspirations Magazine. So I'm very, very happy to be able to share her insights with you and to show you some of her pieces - some, even, that you won't necessarily see in her books!

First, let me explain how this came about:

I reviewed Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery here on Needle'nThread, and Trish kindly e-mailed and thanked me for the review. We exchanged a couple e-mails about her upcoming book, Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Designs, and I asked if I could interview her for my readers. Well, she went beyond that, and sent me photos of her work and a list of notes she was using for a class, which includes her background, commentary on her different books, and her story of "getting published."

This is interesting stuff! It's a lot of information, so I'm splitting it into two parts.

I hope you enjoy it!

From Trish:

It all started in about 1990 when I was living in Zimbabwe. My introduction to embroidery came from humble beginnings..... I did not learn at my grandmother's knee, I did not learn from my Mother (she is here today and will confirm), I did not do domestic science at school; in fact, everything I learnt was from a book - however, I did enjoy art, so perhaps the creative leanings were there. It was not until I got married that I tried my hand at various crafts including sewing - this began a series of home industries where I sold my wares at craft fairs hoping to get rich quick from the proceeds. Then I learnt to do cross stitch and was hooked.

In 1993, an opportunity arose to take on the DMC agency in Zimbabwe which would prove to change the course of my life. This little agency was a great success and eventually we were providing every needlework shop in Zimbabwe plus some of the neighboring countries.

We imported the threads direct from France and then distributed them to the shops. There was a chronic shortage of foreign currency in Zimbabwe so I had to borrow from my Dad's currency allocation for the farm. If I remember correctly, we had to put the threads down as tractor spares or tobacco twines or something like that!


Birds, Thread Painted by Trish Burr, worked in one strand of DMC / Anchor


At this time, I became interested in thread painting and spent many hours pondering the techniques in books and trying them out on little pieces of scrap fabric. I would copy little pictures from cards, books, or wrapping paper in an effort to reproduce the original as closely as possible. I was not aware of any embroidery guild in Zimbabwe and certainly did not know of anyone who did this type of embroidery who could help me, so I just developed my own style of thread painting.

In 1999, we went on a trip to the DMC factory in France. They saw some of my work and asked me if I would like to publish a book for them, but when the contract came through, I noticed it was to be published in French.

So I sent the synopsis out to some English speaking publishers and in 2000 I was offered a contract by Sally Milner Publishing in Australia. Their contract stated that I had to give them first offer of any new book titles and so I have continued to publish with them to this day.


Flower design by Trish Burr, featured in her new book, Crewel and Surface Embroidery, worked in a combination of wool, silk, and cotton


Since then, I have published four books, approximately one every two years - three on thread painting and one on cross stitch. The cross stitch book was compiled from a number of kits I had done previously and was published in 2003.

The first [thread painting] book was Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery, published in 2001 - I had bought a book in the London art gallery on Redoute's flower paintings and felt compelled to stitch them. I thought it was my job to send them a complete layout of the book, page for page. Computers didn't do what you wanted them to do in those days and I spent many frustrated hours trying to get pictures in the right place on the page, only to be told that was the designer's job!

I found out I was pregnant at the age of 43 (I have two grown up daughters) and... moved out of our house into a small cottage while they were doing major alterations to our house - didn't think I would finish the book. My family pushed me to get it finished and about four months before Katie was born, the book went off to Australia.

I remember well the arrival of this first book. Katie was about 2 months old and I had tears in my eyes. When I saw the book in print, it was an amazing feeling.

This little book exceeded all my expectations, going into a reprint within the first three months - I didn't even know what a reprint was... since then, it's been reprinted four times. The whole thing was a bit overwhelming: not only was I trying to get to grips with motherhood in my latter years, but the publishers were already asking for a second title.


Elise by Trish Burr - a work in progress, worked in one strand of DMC / Anchor cottons


Wow! What a journey, and what an achievement. The second part of Trish's article concentrates on her other two thread painting books, the nitty-gritty on publishing (editing, sales, royalties), and some very inspiring concluding remarks. I'll have that, and a couple more gorgeous photos, up for you tomorrow.

Thanks so much, Trish, for "talking" to us so candidly. I can't really speak for everyone reading this, but I've read your notes several times over, and I find them fascinating! So a Great Big Thank You!

If you want to pre-order a copy of Trish's new book, Crewel and Surface Embroidery Inspirational Designs, you can do so through Amazon. I've contacted the publishing company here in the US to get an accurate date on release of the book, but I haven't heard back. I'll let you know when I find out!

Read on to Part II of Trish Burr's Needlework Adventures...


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Tuesday, May 06, 2008

Complete Embroidered Book Cover: Cross, Crown, and Flowers

 
As promised, here's the rest of the embroidery project I started last Saturday.

This is an embroidered prayerbook cover I made for my niece for her First Communion, which she made on Sunday. I also posted the pattern for the embroidery, if you are interested in adding it to your pattern collection.

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


The bud is worked in a light and medium coral-pink. I used silk (Soie d'Alger by Au Ver a Soie) for all the embroidery, with the exception of a little bit of Gilt Sylke Twist around the cross and on the crown.

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


The flower is worked in three shades of purple, in long and short stitch, with French knots for the centers. (Emma picked out the general colors, by the way. "I think the flower should definitely be.... PURPLE!")

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


Three shades of green were used on the leaves, also worked in long and short stitch.

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


This is the complete cross with the flowers. I worked the vine in stem stitch - two rows, one dark and one medium. The little dots at the ends of the curls are worked in satin stitch.

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


The date is worked in tiny stem stitch - it's smaller than it looks here. The largest letters are about half an inch high. In order to keep your stem stitches looking neat on text this small, you need to make very small stitches, and it really helps to use a laying tool to hold the thread up and ease it in place, especially when working tricky spots like tight corners.

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


Here's the finished, assembled cover. It's assembled just exactly like your typical text-book covering technique: folding the long sides in, then the short sides, and slipping the cover into the sleeve that's formed. Then I used white thread to stitch the edges together, so that it fit snug on the book.

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


I was going to make a hand-made twisted cord out of matching floss, but I didn't have enough floss, and it was too soft, anyway. I was afraid a loop of the cord might get snagged, with would pull the whole thing out of whack. So instead, I used buttonhole stitch all the way across the top, creating a kind of stem-stitch looking line right on the outside edge.

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


At first, I thought buttonhole would look a bit casual, but I like the look of it. You can see the sewing on the flap. Not ... so ... neat!

Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


And the little kiddo herself (minus her head - gosh, I wonder what I was focusing on?), in her hand-embroidered First Communion dress. Speaking of floche (well, we were a few days ago, weren't we?) the embroidery on this dress is worked in floche, with little pearls as accents. The dress has been used now by 5 girls in the family over 16 years - it's just as beautiful as ever, and the embroidery is flawless! I'll give you some close-ups later on, if you're interested.

So, there it is. Success. Now, onto other projects.... as soon as I catch up on incidentals! It's amazing how much can slip when we get engrossed in an embroidery project, isn't it?!

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Wednesday, April 30, 2008

On Cramming an Embroidery Project

 
You remember cramming for tests, right? Well, I'm cramming an embroidery project! I started this project this past Saturday, around noon. I have one week to have it finished - doable? You bet!

The project is an embroidered book cover for my niece's prayer book. She makes her First Communion this Sunday. (I'll show you her hand-embroidered dress once it's pressed and ready...) I thought I'd whip up a little book cover for her prayer book before this coming Saturday evening - after all, it's just a little book, with a little cover.

The only possible obstacle that I may have overlooked was ... the work week!?!

I started by finding a design. I could draw one - takes time - or I could flip through the designs I have. I flipped. I quickly realized I would need something long and narrow as opposed to short and wide, so I limited my looking to the overall shape of the design, and then eliminated choices from there. I needed something relatively simple that I could stitch relatively quickly, and that would appeal to my niece.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


The fabric of choice - should it be white Italian silk (thick silk - satin), or linen? I settled on linen for washability. I'm using a piece of Alabaster Angel by Legacy - NICE stuff!

Then I pre-shrunk the fabric. While it was going through the stages of pre-shrinking linen, I took out graph paper and the prayer book and drew up the pattern for the cover.

I sought a piece of white cotton for a lining behind the linen, as the prayer book has a black cover, and I didn't want that to show through. I pre-shrunk the cotton as well.

Then while the fabric was drying, I transferred my embroidery design to tracing paper. I drew the design with a fine micron pen, then turned it over and traced the back of it with a pencil.

When my fabrics were almost dry, I ironed them to crisp (as in, stiff and wrinkle-free, not burnt!!). I added a couple layers of starch on the linen to make removing any pencil marks easier.

I removed a thread on each side of the linen to mark the size of the pattern (makes cutting easier and square when finished) and basted in the width of the cover of the prayer book.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


I took the embroidery design (on the tracing paper), centered it up, and used a ball-point pen on the right side of the design, pressing hard enough to transfer the pencil lines on the back of the design onto the fabric. It worked perfectly. Then I took an extra-fine (.005) micron art pen, and drew in the lines on the linen with the pen.

I framed up both the lining and the linen - but I didn't frame it super-tight. Just enough to give a little tension without pulling on the linen.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


I picked out my colors - the cross and crown will be gold, the vines green, the flower will be a range of purple, and the bud will be a light and medium shade of salmon-pink.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


And then I started stitching. I had a good chunk of time on Saturday evening to stitch (it took me a couple hours to get the project set up), a little bit of time on Sunday afternoon, and a few hours late Sunday night. I managed a little stitching on Monday evening, and a couple hours on Tuesday. The picture below shows progress through Sunday afternoon (a few hours of stitching).

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


Will I finish before Saturday? I do believe I will! Now I wish I had chosen a more complicated pattern! It's going pretty fast, actually.

I was glad to find a use for the gilt sylke twist on the project - but then I remembered I chose linen for washability. Ut oh. The GST will most likely get wet. I outlined the cross in the gold GST, which helped even up some of the lines (cheating, I know!) and I'm contemplating using it on the crown as well.

I'll keep you posted with finished pictures. I'm going to make a matching corded trim, so I'll show you how I do that. It'll either be kumihimo, or I'll just make a twisted cord by hand. And I'll try to take sensible and instructive photos on assembling the piece over the book!

Have you ever crammed a project? Do you perform better or worse when you're embroidering under pressure?

Wish me luck!

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Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Book Review: Long and Short Stitch Embroidery by Trish Burr

 
I reviewed Trish Burr's embroidery book, Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery, a while back, but perhaps I should have preceded that with her book, Long and Short Stitch Embroidery, A Collection of Flowers, since it focuses more on the method of long and short stitch needle painting. Well, as I've been getting my library in order, I've been pulling out favorite books for easier access, and this just happens to be one my faves. So I thought I'd tell you about it!

If you haven't seen Trish's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers, you should look it up and at least see the cover. It's a work of art. Featured on the cover is a flaming lily, a gardenia and some other blossoms, all worked in needle painting (or thread painting) techniques. The cover is gorgeous, and it's hard to believe that the flowers on it are indeed embroidered and not painted.

The primary stitch used in this kind of work is long and short stitch. The key to making the work look so realistic is the direction of the stitching and the shading achieved by the color selection and the stitching.

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers


In Long and Short Stitch Embroidery, Trish takes the embroiderer (whether beginner, novice, or advanced) through the basics of long and short stitch. She has an excellent section titled "Tips for Improving your Long and Short Stitch," which any embroiderer interested in this technique would find useful. Perhaps the best tip is something that I figured out only after quite a bit of this type of stitching, but you'd get better results from the very beginning if you knew it in advance: the concept of drawing extra guidelines for stitch direction, then stitching a directional stitch along each guideline, and then going back between the directional stitches and filling in. This helps your stitches move gradually along the angle you want them to turn. It's a great tip, and nice to know when you first set out! Besides this, she covers other useful hints to make your stitching look perfect.

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers


Besides covering the basics of materials and set-up, Trish takes the embroiderer through excercises in getting used to long and short stitch - filling in, for example, a simple petal shape. Then she takes you step-by-step through slightly more complicated shapes, showing how to effectively place your stitches and shade the shape. From there, she launches into smaller flower motifs, and then - wow! - a terrific selection of gorgeous flowers!

Each larger flower project includes a line drawing of the flower to use as a pattern; another line drawing that shows the angle or direction the stitches should flow in; a full color, close-up photo of the finished project already stitched; and, in most of the larger flowers, close-ups of different parts of the flower so that you can see it actually stitched and compare it to what yours should look like. And these pictures are INCREDIBLE! Really beautiful stuff!

She also includes a list of DMC and Anchor thread numbers, which makes it really easy to assemble the threads needed for any project in the book - you don't have to color-match!

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers


My favorite flower in the book is the Protea. It's amazing! It reminds me of an artichoke, but so beautiful, with vibrant pinks, whites, and greens. Actually, there isn't any project in the book I don't like!

The projects would be suitable for any finishing that you would work surface embroidery for - household decor, book covers, whatnot - but they make such a striking finished piece that I would be inclined to frame them! They would make beautiful accents on the walls around the house, and anyone who saw them would look at them in wonder. "That's embroidered??!!" (I love it when people say that!)

So if you're not familiar with Trish's book, take a gander! You're bound to be impressed! If this is your type of technique, you'll be glad to have the book in your library. You can pick it up through Amazon for less than $13!

Incidentally, rumor has it (although I haven't received my copy yet) that this month's Inspirations magazine features a project by Trish. I'm really looking forward to that!

She's also coming out with a new book this summer. I believe it's on crewel work, and it should be fantastic. If it's the quality of her other books, we have something great to look forward to!



If you're looking for other embroidery book reviews, check out my list of needlework books I've reviewed here on Needle 'n Thread. You can also check out my bookstore link (Amazon affiliate program). I own every book that I review on Needle 'n Thread or that I have listed in my bookstore. If you have any questions about any of them in particular, just contact me!

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Thursday, April 10, 2008

Embroidered Strawberry Completed

 
I had so much fun embroidering this little strawberry scene. There's nothing super-fancy about it, and certainly there's nothing accurate about it as far as nature is concerned, but the embroidery was fun! I learned several things along the way.

First, I learned about embroidering with Gilt Sylke Twist - some things work, and some things don't. Well, I should qualify that: they didn't work for me. They might work better for someone with a little more skill and a little more patience!

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


For example, long and short stitch and variations, worked on an arch, are probably not ideal with this thread. For one thing, the thread can't be split, so you have to come up between the previous stitches - which nudges them aside. Because of the stiff nature of the GST, they tend to stay nudged aside...

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


It doesn't look horrible, but it doesn't look that great, either!

For the blossom, I settled on long and short stitch in ecru and pink, with some highlights of the pink GST in the middle.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


I like the way the blossom came out. I used some slightly darker brownish-pink in there, too, and between the petals for a bit of separation.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


The leaves behind the blossom are worked in three colors of green: I satin stitched the whole leaf in a medium green, then I embroidered a few "shoots" of dark green up from the edge of the petal. Finally, I worked in a very light green at the tips, using just two stitches over each tip, in stem stitch, to give it a kind of curled look.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


Another thing I learned: oh, yes, we all know it, but do we do it??? Think things through before beginning to stitch. I wasn't thinking when I stitched this stylized leaf (right - that's my excuse: it isn't supposed to look real!). I meant to do the long and short on the edge, exactly as it is done, and I meant to stitch the green GST on the edge as well. I even meant to work a stem stitch filling on the top section of the leaf. However, I did not mean to break the stem stitch scallops where I did! I should have drawn a line, slanting down in the direction of the scallops on the edge, and broken my scallops of stem stitch filling along slanted lines, so that those lines followed the direction of the long and short stitch.

But I wasn't really paying attention, and I didn't notice it until I was finished!

Another way I could have avoided those scallop-lines in the stem stitch filling altogether would have been to alternate the placement of the stitches in each row, not ending at a point each time I came down the scallop hill.

But like I said, I wasn't paying attention!

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


I also learned another thing I already know, but it served as a good reminder: line up your threads and the quantities thereof before you stitch. I ran out of the green I was using. You can't really tell, but it made the little turn-over at the tip look a bit different than I intended.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


But, despite all the lessons, I'm still pretty happy with the way it turned out.

Oh - I learned one more thing. I will no longer be a fanatic over not wanting people to touch my embroidery. Usually, as a finger approaches, I spaz out - "Don't Touch!" When people see something like this strawberry, with the raised leaves and the sparkle of the GST, they can't resist it. They MUST touch it. So I learned that, sometimes, you just have to sit back and not get weird over people wanting to touch your embroidery. After all, they're learning, too!

Hope you liked my GST Strawberry Adventure! Now, on to other projects!

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Tuesday, April 08, 2008

The First Embroidered Leaf on my GST Strawberry

 
My Gilt Sylke Twist playtime is rapidly coming to a close. Here, I've got pictures of the embroidered leaf to the left of the strawberry, and the main stem, which is worked in heavy chain stitch.

I've actually progressed a lot further on this little embroidery adventure, but I've fallen behind with taking pictures. The good thing is I'm almost finished. The bad thing is I haven't taken step-by-step photos of every part of the process as I planned. I need to remember to store my camera in my embroidery basket!

Anyway, I really like working the heavy chain stitch with the Gilt Sylke Twist. I think the stitch and the thread go together perfectly for creating thicker stems.

This is the main branch of the strawberry project:

Strawberry embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


I mentioned before that I re-worked the stem stitch on the original little branch running left of the strawberry down through the first leaf. Here 'tis:

Strawberry embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


The stem stitch works fine with this thread! I worked it up the middle of the leaf to the main branch, and it came out much better than the first time I worked the stem stitch with the thread.

Strawberry embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


The leaf is worked in long and short stitch, except the turn-over, which is worked in satin stitch. I'm not so keen on the leaf. I think it was a mistake to outline the whole thing in the dark green stem stitch. I wanted it to stand out a bit. Well, the turn-over's too big and thickish looking, anyway. But oh well - it was practice... and overall, I like the whole piece.

It's kind of weird to see three different-looking leaves on one stem! But I guess that's part of the fun of embroidery - you can pretty much do whatever you want!

So that's the latest on the strawberry, but I'll get some shots of the finished piece as soon as I complete that top leafy thing that doesn't look like a leaf.

As far as the blossom goes, I tried three different approaches. I did manage to take a photo of the attempt at a kind of long and short variation with the GST on the blossom - right before I clipped it out! Then I thought I'd use a padded satin stitch and work the petals in coton a broder, like you would for white work. It looked terrific - if it were on a piece of whitework, that is! It just didn't blend with the rest of the motif. So I snipped that out, too (I don't think I photographed that...) I finally settled on typical long and short stitch with regular stranded floss, in ecru and pink, with some shoots of pink GST up the center of each blossom. That turned out better! So, photos of that later!

And, finally, today is my birthday, and I got the greatest gift from my dear, darling sister.... which I will photograph and tell you about as well! Of course it's embroidery related!

I hope you all have a jolly day, and that you get a chance to spend some quality time with your needle 'n thread. I intend to!

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Thursday, November 29, 2007

Embroidery Book Review: Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery by Trish Burr

 
I just acquired another excellent embroidery book - and I know this one is going to be a favorite! The inspiration for purchasing it came from Elmsley Rose, whose enthusiasm for embroidery has "recharged" me - now I'm all fired up for some upcoming projects! (Oh, if she only knew what she has started!!) This book is perfect for anyone who loves embroidered flowers and who is interested in learning needlepainting techniques.

Redouté's Finest Flowers in Embroidery by Trish Burr is essentially a book on needlepainting flowers originally painted by Pierre-Joseph Redouté, a French painter of Flemish background famous for his botanical artwork.

Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery by Trish Burr


Besides being an excellent resource for producing some gorgeous embroidered flowers, the book covers all the essentials of good needle painting techniques - those little nuances that make en embroidered work look positively realistic. The book begins like most other embroidery books that focus on projects: materials such as fabric, threads, hoops and frames, needles, and so forth are briefly discussed, as well as transferring techniques. "Briefly" is the operative word - Trish's book doesn't go into a lot of detail on the background information for getting started on a project, but the essentials are all there.

Then, you get a break down of the various stitches used in the projects in the book, with an extensive focus on long and short stitch as well as an adequate look at all the other stitches that help bring a needle painted project to life. The stitches are illustrated, some with drawings, some with photographs. The explanation of the stitches is good - not elaborate, but again adequate, especially for those already familiar with embroidery. She focuses as well on important aspects of stitching, such as direction and shading techniques.

Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery by Trish Burr


To get you familiar with the stitches and how they work, Trish follows the stitch glassary with a starter sampler which covers all the basic stitches. It's an attractive piece in itself and would make a fun and varied embroidery project.

Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery by Trish Burr


Then, Trish launches into "The Projects." This is surely the best part of the book! Seventeen of Redouté's flowers are drawn out and broken down into really "doable" projects. There are three good-sized, nicely laid-out pages devoted to each project. Each project includes a list of materials required, a line drawing, a photograph of the completed embroidered flower, a list of DMC thread suggestions, and - what I really like - a pencil-shaded drawing of the piece, so that you can see exactly where the shades change. In addition to this, on each project there is usually another line drawing of the flower, with certain areas shaded to show you what areas should be padded and how.

Stitch directions are not indicated on the flower patterns (this is where she falls short of Tanja Berlin's instructions), but the photographs of the embroidered piece are close-up and very clear, so that you can see the stitch directions on the finished piece. Very handy!

Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery by Trish Burr


In addition to the material lists, the patterns, and the photo of the embroidered piece, you also get general instruction on how to work each section of the pattern.

The book is quite stunning, and for the intermediate embroiderer is a great way to launch into needle painting. The directions are clear, the pictures are fantastic, and Redouté's art looks fantastic in thread!

(It would make a Great Christmas Present, too!!!)



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Saturday, November 17, 2007

Embroidered Iris - Completed Needle Painting Project

 
I never did share photos of my finished embroidered iris, which is a needle painting project from Tanja Berlin. So I thought I'd show you the end results!

This was a fantastic kit to work - I do love Tanja Berlin's kits! They are great for practicing needle painting techniques without the ho-hum part of deciding what to do - the designs are already transferred on the fabric, the threads are all laid out neatly, and I don't even have to search for the right needle. So, now and then, I like working on these types of kits! Besides, with every design I work of hers, I learn a new aspect of painting with a needle!

When I last posted photos of the iris, it was pretty much complete, but don't you think that the yellow really brings the flower to life?



Here's the completed piece. I haven't yet decided what to do with it - any thoughts?



I love the yellow!



There are two colors of yellow here - the knots are actually elongated French knots.



The color selection on this particular project was really fantastic. I had a lot of fun working it!

Now.... what to do with it??

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Monday, October 29, 2007

Book Review: Beginner's Guide to Silk Shading

 
I love needlework and embroidery books that are simple and clear, have step-by-step illustrated instructions, and contain reasonable projects for beginners and beyond. Beginner's Guide to Silk Shading is just such a book.

Written by Clare Hanham, graduate of the Royal School of Needlework, and published by Search Press, this is an excellent book for the beginner who wants to get into silk shading techniques (also called "needle painting," among other things).

The book is just out this year - in fact, it was delayed in printing and wasn't due until December, but I pre-ordered my copy through Amazon this summer and it arrived last week.

It's not a huge or extensive book, but within its pages, you will find everything you need to know about shading with long and short stitch. The author also includes several simple patterns for the beginner and takes you through them step-by-step, showing you what they should look like as they progress.

She includes also the useful information for starting an embroidery project: what tools to use, determining colors and such for your project (and where to put them), transfering your pattern, setting up your hoop (or ring frame, as she calls it), types of fabric (including how to mount finer fabrics on cotton backing). Then she takes you from start to finish through several projects, which include a couple types of flowers (tulip, dog rose, and some little stylized blossom-thing), leafy vines, and butterflies. All of them are geared towards the beginner, and the results for the projects are simply stunning. They're nice!

I especially like her treatment of the long-and-short stitch. She tells the reader right off the bat that, to achieve a natural look, you have to be relaxed while you're stitching, and a bit free in the placement of your stitches. She doesn't go with the "exact" alternating long-and-short stitch lengths, but rather varies the lengths of all the stitches without being rigid in keeping all the long stitches the same length and all the short stitches the same length. She even tells you that, when working with one strand of floss, it doesn't really matter if you split the stitch when you come up through it! If your previous row is worked closely together, then it will look fine whether you split the stitch or not. I have to admit, I like her approach because it's exactly how I do it! It's always nice to be assured from a professional that the way you're doing it is quite ok!

The book's a reasonable price through Amazon (less than $11.00), so if you're interested in developing your shading techniques, check it out!



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Saturday, October 06, 2007

Embroidered Iris

 
This is another one of those "little projects" I've been working on when I can snatch a minute here and there. I haven't had time to delve into anything big lately! The size of this makes it very convenient to pick up and put down again, without having a huge project out. This is another example of needle painting - this time, an iris.

There are two flowers I just love - the iris and the daffodil - and I really love them together.... It was only natural, then, that Tanja Berlin's Iris caught my eye and became one of those "must do" kits. Too bad she doesn't have a daffodil! I'll have to drum that one up on my own.

So here's the iris so far....



Admittedly, it ain't perfect! The large bowl-shaped petal on the top right was the most difficult part of the pattern. I like it in the right light, but if the light's not right, my stitches don't look so good. I'm still debating about that one...



You can see what I mean up close here. From far away, it looks a lot better!



I like the leaves and stems, but the bud part is a little stiffer and unnatural looking. When I finish the flower, I'm going to go back in and do something about those leaves around the bud and on the bud stem. They're just too "coloring-book" looking. They need some depth, and a little more of a wrinkly taper at the top of the leaves (like on the left leaf next to the bud).

So that's my current little project... I need to get on with some bigger things, like the silk sampler - we have our first autumn guild meeting Monday, and I haven't made any headway on that recently! And then I've got two projects that have been requested that I want to start, AND.... oh, stay tuned - I'll post about this - I've got beetle wings to play with! And some videos I need to edit!

Time... it's not on my side. I think I'll write a song...

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Monday, September 24, 2007

Needlepainting Project Complete: Peony-type Dahlia

 
Oh wow! This embroidery project was fun! I finished it Saturday, which means it took me less than a week to get 'er done, embroidering in little snatches here and there between work and whatnot.

This is the peony-type dahlia needlepainting kit from Tanja Berlin. If you've never seen her work or checked out berlinembroidery.com (her website), do take a look. I think kits like this are a great way to polish your skill in a certain technique. Not only does Tanja offer the needlepainting kits (which are really gorgeous), but she also offers kits in whitework, blackwork, Jacobean (traditional and modern), goldwork, shadow work, and appliqué.

I've worked a few of her kits before, particularly a couple birds - I put photos of the Red Poll embroidery kit online, but unfortunately didn't photograph the other one -- but that's ok. I've got another one of her birds to do before November (for a Christmas present). Come to think of it, I have her iris kit and her squirrel kit, too.... and two more birds, the wren and ... ? another one. I had planned on making those "fun" summer embroidery projects, but the summer was just way too hectic!! Now that school is underway, I find I need "little" manageable projects if I want to keep plying the needle, so these are perfect.

Anyway, back to the flower....



Here's a close up of the stalk. The colors in the kit are a little darker than the colors in the photo that comes with the kit, but I LIKE the darker colors better!



This is the left bud...



And this is the right bud. There's something amiss on the top, right side in the back - that satin-stitched dark green leaf is not quite right. It's not so noticeable farther away!



Here's the center of the flower. The dark background is made up of French knots, crowded together. The yellow stamens are elongated French knots, or pistol stitch. I kept the wraps rather loose, as I wanted the circles of the French knot at the end of the pistol stitch to show up. If I kept them tight, I found they sunk into the design too much.



This is a close-up of the front petal that was kind of crumpled. After I embroidered it the second time... I liked it better!!



And this is the whole thing. Yes, there are a couple spots that are a bit too "stitchy" looking, but overall, I like the little fellow!

I'm ready to move on to the next "little" project.... ??? I'm not sure what it will be yet... I was thinking about fiddling with a few goldwork techniques before starting up another of these kits. I'm in the mood for couching!

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Friday, September 21, 2007

Needle Painting Update: Flower Coming Along, but...

 
I thought I'd share some photos of the little needle painting project I'm currently working on.

This is an embroidery kit from Tanja Berlin, and she has it listed as advanced techniques - it's helpful if you have already done a little bit of this technique. I like working on it. In fact, it's striking me like a really good book does - I can't stand to put it down, and when I'm not at it, I'm thinking about it. Weird.

Anyway, here we are:



Overall, it isn't "bad," and in fact, I do like it a lot. But there's definitely a problem. Can you see it? What strikes you as somewhat "off" in the photo? Ok, wait. You're not allowed to say that the light is too light, and there's too much contrast - whoops. That's a camera problem. Bad lighting right now, as it's dark out and an Ott light never gives me good light for photos!

So you don't have to look too closely to see the problem...



It's that front petal on top. It's crumpled looking - and it doesn't look natural at all. My stitch direction is not as it should be, and my outside edge of stitches (the light ones) are too short is some places... and, then on top of it, I worked the medium too far into the light, up by the edge. SOOOO.... I'm going to pick out that petal.

I cheated in a couple places. And I found a couple parts of the design more challenging than the rest of it:



The "turned" petal (to the left of the one that is malformed) was difficult, insofar as there is only a very narrow space on the inside of the petal for working the long and short stitch in two shades. I cheated. I worked the two shades, but the back inside of the petal just didn't stand out enough. So I outline stitched a teeny line in the white, to make the petal stand out from the background a little more. I'm not sure if I like that. I have to think about it.

The next turned petal (continuing clockwise up the flower) was also difficult.... I'm still thinking about it, too. I don't think I'll unpick those two petals, but I will definitely take out the front "malformed" little guy and rework him.

The other thing: I don't think there are supposed to be those "voided" lines down the center of each flower petal, which end up looking kind of like a central spine or vein. I was thinking wrong when I did the first few petals, working in the same technique I've been using on my silk sampler. So I didn't really pay attention, and the next thing I knew, all my flower petals had definite veins. I don't think it detracts, so I'm leaving them like that. I actually kind of like it, because it makes one side of the petal stand out more than the other, especially if you turn it in the light. But then, if I frame this, who's going to be turning it in the light?

I won't think about that.

One more point: I find myself being really cheap with the light thread as I'm working. In Tanja's color photo of the peony-type dahlia, she uses a lot more light thread. For one thing, the kit didn't come with "a lot" of the lighter color, so I'm stingy with it. For another, it's one of the few Anchor colors in the kit (they're mostly DMC), so I know if I have to get more, I'm going to have to order it online, which would be a real bummer, so... I'm rather sparing with it. I've got a couple more "whole" strands (which will be stripped into individual strands). It is probably enough, but if I had used a lot more of the light color, I think I'd be running short!

Well, this is a good learning exercise. I really want to fine-tune the needlepainting skill, so these kits are good practice. It's a great learning experience and I'm having a blast with this kit!

What d'ya think of it? Any words of advice - I'm all ears!

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Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Embroidery Designer Spotlight: Jenny McWhinney

 
Jenny McWhinney is a needlework designer who specializes in thread painting techniques. Her work is often featured in Inspirations Magazine, which is where I became acquainted with her.

Her needle painting (or thread painting) techniques showcase Beatrix-Potter-type illustrations: mostly animals, which, by some, may be considered "juvenile" in their portrayals. If I were to think of a word that summarizes her work, I'd call it "charming."

Jenny McWhinney Designs


Her designs are perfect for anything related to children - blankets, quilts, wall-hangings, pillows - all those things you might use to deck out a child's room, or that would make a perfect gift.

This isn't to say that they are all "children's" designs. Her camels, for example, are featured on children's blankets, but who says they wouldn't look great on any wall in any home? They are intricate and really beautiful.

Thread Painted Camel by Jenny McWhinney


And, at the same time, they seem to have a sense of humor! When I look at Jenny's work, I can't help smiling!

Her "Monet the Mouse" books (little embroidered books that are truly gems!) are featured in a few different issues of Inspirations. In a little behind the scenes article, Jenny explains where she gets her inspiration for these projects and more. It's worth reading - it's nice to get a sense of the personality behind the designer.

Jenny's also got a book out, called "Thread Painting: Bunnies in my Garden." If you're in the US, you can find it on Amazon and save on shipping!

Now, why the renewed attraction to Jenny McWhinney's designs right now? I'm perusing all kinds of possibilities for a guild project, and I think her work would be great to incorporate into a quilt for raffling! The possibility of incorporating one or two of her Monet books into a couple quilts is not original! I think it's a great idea. But we'll see...!


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Sunday, September 16, 2007

Needle Painting Again - A New Little Project

 
If you've looked about on Needle'NThread, you've probably noticed I like needlepainting techniques. I'm no pro, but I find that if I take advantage of the expertise of certain designers, I learn a little bit more with each project and the whole technique isn't daunting at all.

Tanja Berlin is certainly a favorite. I've worked a couple of her kits, including this little needle painted bird, and I've got a couple more waiting to tackle. I thought, in fact, that three of them - two birds and the current flower I'm working on, if framed to match, would make a nice Christmas present for my folks. So that's my plan.

I'm working on the Peony-type Dahlia from Berlin Embroidery Designs right now. I'm going to follow it up with the Robin on a Berry Branch, if time allows.

So, here's the beginning of the dahlia:



Actually, that's not a very impressive photo. I just took the shot so you could see the concept of the stretcher-bar frames, which I elaborated upon when telling you about one of those handy-dandy gotta-have embroidery tools, the EZ Tack-it Kit.



Here's the photo of the kit, and the buds underway in the background. One thing I did absolutely notice in this particular kit of Tanja's is that the greens on the cover photo of the kit and the greens inside the kit (the actual color of the floss provided) do not really correspond. The floss is much darker, and the contrast between the shades of green is not as obvious. Still, it looks good.



And here they are up close.

So that's what I'm working on casually. My silk work sampler is still getting attention, though I still have an ugly mistake to pick out. I'm just not in the mood for that this weekend, though!

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Saturday, June 30, 2007

Silk Work Embroidery Sampler Under Way

 
For our summer project, our embroidery guild is learning to work with silk. We'll be using different types of stitches in our silk work sampler, many of which will be some sort of "shading" technique. If you want to see the pattern we'll be working with, I posted the silk work sampler pattern some time back.

During each embroidery guild meeting so far this summer, we've gone one step at a time in setting up the sampler, and we will all be working one step at a time in stitching it, so that everyone has time to get the different techniques down.

We haven't started stitching yet! We aren't taking any "short cuts" - we each framed up our pieces, then we traced our designs, pricked them, pounced them, and finally, using a fine paintbrush and watercolor paints, we painted in the design.

So here's my pattern, transferred to the fabric and ready to go:



The sampler itself is about 7.5 x 10 inches. We're using Legacy linen (Alba Maxima), and we purchased 18" x 18" squares, to mount up on 16 x 16 frames. We're using stretcher bars, with the fabric tacked all the way around. The linen was pre-shrunk and ironed before mounting. I like using the larger frame for this kind of project (a 14 x 14 or even a 10 x 12 would have sufficed), but it's good to have the extra space to practice a bit on the side lines if necessary.

Here are the threads we'll be using:



The top row of tubes is flat silk from the Japanese Embroidery Center. We're working with 5 shades of green, 3 shades of red or of coral, 3 shades of blue, and gold. We'll also be using a little bit of reddish-brown, for different stems. The silk in skeins is Soie d'Alger.

I picked out the colors from the thread sample binder of the Soie d'Alger. Then I matched my colors of Soie d'Alger to the thread palette of flat silk from the Japanese Embroidery Center. I was so happy to find a practically perfect match for all colors! Of course, the colors will still look slightly different, because the light will play on the flat and twisted silk differently. The stitches used will also change the look of the threads a bit, because of the way the light plays off different stitches.

We're starting with the middle flower at the top, which will be worked in long and short stitch in the twisted silk. The center of the flower will be a lattice work filling, in the gold and either red or blue, depending on the color of the flower. The side flowers will each be worked in different stitches, but they will be worked in flat silk.

I'll keep you posted as we progress - right now, I'm going to work up a sample section for Monday's class!

I'll be posting updates and explaining the stitches we're using as we go. If you want to stitch along from a distance, feel free!

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Friday, April 06, 2007

Crucifixion Chasuble: Historical Needlework Sample - Gorgeous!

 
Here's another example of ecclesiastical embroidery - a chasuble of the Crucifixion, worked entirely by hand, with embroidery and goldwork. It is really stunning - the "needlepainting" techniques that achieve the shadows and shading are so expertly done that, from a distance, it's difficult to realize that the piece is embroidered. I've included here several close up photos so you can see the range of colors used in this exquisite piece of historical church needlework.

This piece is housed at the Benedictine Convent in Clyde, Missouri, which I explained about previously when displaying photos of an embroidered cope. The vestments on display at this convent are all behind glass - some in drawers, with a couple exhibits in large, walk-around display cases. This particular piece was lying in a drawer behind glass, so only the back was available for viewing and photographing.

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene


This is as full a shot of the chasuble as I could take. To give you the basic layout, underneath the crucifix is Our Lady of Sorrows (Mary, the mother of Jesus), and underneath her is St. Mary Magdalene. The vessel in Mary Magdalene's hands is indicative of the oil she annointed Christ's feet with when she washed them with her tears and dried them with her hair. At the right arm of Christ crucified (so, on the left side of the photo) is St. John, the "beloved" apostle, present at the crucifixion along with Mary, the mother of Christ, and Mary Magdalene. On the left arm (so, on the right in the photo) is .... ? I don't know - perhaps St. Peter. It could also be, perhaps, St. Benedict, as it's a Benedictine convent. At the top of the Crucifix is God the Father and the dove symbolizing the Holy Ghost.

Design-wise, this chasuble is lovely. The color schemes are pleasing, the symbolism is thought-provoking (as it should be), and the embellishment of the embroidery (with the goldwork) enhances, not detracts, from the needleworked scene. It's quite stunning work!

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene - Our Lady of Sorrows


This is amazing - it's the coloring and shading that capture the eye. The gold and blue work together so well! The realistic folds and shadows are stunning!

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene - Our Lady of Sorrows close-up


Here is a close-up on the face, where you can really get a good idea of the gold and blue shading. Note also the eyes, the smooth stitching on the face, the two tones in the mouth (so the lower lip is shaded).

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene - Mary Magdalene


The smaller insert of Mary Magdalene is not as exquisite as the one above, but some details - especially the expression on the face - are not to be missed. A lovely smaller piece.

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene


Here is a close-up on the face of Mary Magdalene. Note the stitch direction in the face, the eyes, the eyebrows, and all the details that contribute to the "painting."

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene


If you look at the crucifix from a distance (above), and then look at the photo below - the close up on the face of Christ - you will see that "impressionist" appearance in the needlepainting. If you've ever looked at an impressionist painting up close, you see the strokes and rather a jumble of color, but when you step back, the effect is much smoother.

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene - face of Christ


Look at how many colors are used to produce the face! These people really knew the art of needlepainting! Check out the rose, the red, the yellows, the greenish-browns - all work together to create a very "smooth" face from a distance - perfectly placed shadows, and very realistic.

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene


This is the image of St. John. I'm not sure why the snake in the cup - undoubtedly an image of temptation of sorts, but I don't know the details of the story behind it. The flash really reflected on the glass here, so the photo isn't as nice as I could wish!

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene - the Holy Ghost


The dove symbolizing the Holy Ghost is incredibly detailed for something so small - approximately 2.5 - 3 inches across, tops. Note how the goldwork is couched on the halo - it's not "bricked," but rather creates a "sweeping" circular movement.

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene - God the Father


Again, the color selection for the face is amazing. Also, the detail in the hair and beard is exquisite. Note the stitch direction in the cheeks - the horizontal stitches create the shadow.

Chasuble with hand-embroidered Crucifixion scene - goldwork embellishment


And finally, here's a close-up on the goldwork that embellishes the whole piece.
I hope readers enjoy seeing this stitching close-up! It really is amazing work! Imagine the understanding of colors and the artistic sense that each needleworker who contributed to this had to possess. What an art!

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Sunday, April 01, 2007

Embroidery Project Update - Almost Finished!

 
Just a quick update on my corrent embroidery project, for those of you interested in taking a look. This is a hand-embroidered medallion for the back of a vestment. It's supposed to be finished by the time I go to bed tonight! The lamb is finished, and now it's just a matter of a few details and the outside edge, which will be couched in gold.

This embroidery project has been underway for about eight and a half weeks now. I calculate I've spent about 350 hours on it! Needless to say, outside of work, I haven't been doing much else besides plying the needle!

Without further ado, here's the update:



I have a tiny bit more outlining to do on the lamb, and a little area to fix on the neck next to the left side of the halo.



The eye looks a bit exaggerated, with the dark lines around it, but it will be viewed from far away, so it needs to show up! I wasn't exactly satisfied with the inside of the eye, but it's too late to go over it, and the overall effect is ok.



This is a close-up on the "wool." The lamb is stitched with a stem-stitch filling, worked in two strands of Soie d'Alger, over which I worked flat silk by whipping little bits of the stem stitching. I also worked in, here and there, small rounded straight stitches.



Here's a side angle, so you can see the effect of the gold which is couched over the sky.

Next step: finish outlining the lamb, then I'll do the blood and the little flower details on the hill (tufts of grass and little flowers), and then couch the gold around the edge. It's going to be a long day....!

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Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Hand-embroidered Cope Photos: Gorgeous Needlepainting Examples

 
I have a penchant for historical embroidery, especially when it comes to two categoriest: garments and ecclesiastical work. I journeyed to Clyde, Missouri a while back to see the collection of hand-embroidered vestments on display in the museum at a Benedictine convent. These vestments were embroidered some time between the end of the 1800's - 1953-ish. I thought I'd share some of the photos they allowed me to take. I think anyone interested in the art of embroidery would find the work somewhat fascinating!

To set the stage, I'll tell you a bit about the monastery itself before getting into the embroidery.

Benedictine convent in Clyde, Missouri


The convent was built in the 1800's in answer to a request from the Benedictines for some Sisters from Europe to help support the work of the Benedictines in Missouri. Eventually, the nuns established what is called a Convent of Perpetual Adoration, where they kept regular prayer times before the Blessed Sacrament in their chapel.

Main entrance to Benedictine Convent in Clyde, Missouri


The chapel is stunning. It's decorated in the Beuronese style of art, which originated in the Abbey of Beuron in Germany. Beuronese art has an interesting history, if you like art history. There's a pretty comprehensive page on the history of the Beuronese Murals at Conception Abbey, which also contains some information on the history of this style. Conception Abbey is located just a few miles from the monastery in Clyde. Here's a photo below of the interior of the chapel - many of the hand embroidered vestments in their museum imitate to an extent the style of art. The decoration seen in this part of the chapel over the main altar is all worked in mosaics.

Interior of Benedictine Chapel decorated in the Beuronese style of art


Now, for some hand embroidered vestments. As you look at these, imagine the time, energy, and skill that went into them! For now, we'll look at the hood of a cope. A cope is a large, cape-like vestment once worn for different functions, including Benediction and also by different clerics during a Pontifical Mass, where a Bishop was presiding. It was also used in the Sung Mass at the beginning during a prayer called the "Asperges Me." I don't believe the cope is used often today in any common liturgical function. Even if it is, you probably won't find too many like this.

Hand embroidered cope, Annunciation scene


The scene is the Annunciation, recounted in Luke, Chapter 1 of the Bible, where the Angel Gabriel greets Mary with the news that she is to be the mother of God.

Hand embroidered cope, Annunciation scene detail


Here's a closer-up of the Blessed Virgin. I think the detail in the hair and at the top of her garments is amazing.

Hand embroidered cope, Annunciation scene detail


Here's a detail of the background: couched gold, embroidered on top, with black pearls.

Hand embroidered cope, Annunciation scene detail


Here's a side view, so you can get a glimpse of the color in the wings of the angel. The two capes are quite striking - note the "painted" look of the folded and draped fabric. It's really pretty!

Hand embroidered cope, Annunciation scene detail


Here's a close-up on the edge of the wing and on the background, where you can see that the design was embroidered over the gold, in a dark red geometrical pattern.

Hand embroidered cope, Annunciation scene detail


Here's a close-up of the angel's face. The stitches get a little blurred, but the face is entirely embroidered in a kind of long-and-short stitch. The halo is couched gold. I'm pretty certain it's gold jap.

Hand embroidered cope, Annunciation scene detail


Anyone see a problem with this when you look at it up close? From far away, the bulge on the neck is not as obvious. There is a little discrepancy here in the desire to produce the right shadow, and the actual outcome of the shadow. Again, from far away, it isn't as obvious. When you look at it up close, though, it looks a little odd. It certainly does not take away from the beauty of the entire piece, and it's less noticeable depending on the angle of viewing.

So there you have it - a very nice piece of historical needlework. I figure this was worked during the first half of the 1900's - probably between the 20's - 40's. I'm not sure of the date, though, and they didn't have information available on each specific piece. The last hand-embroidered item in the museum at Clyde is a miter, which was apparently worked in the 1950's.

Visit the website of the Benedictine Sisters in Clyde, Missouri if you want to read more about them.

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Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Agnus Dei Project Update - Embroidering against a Deadline!

 
Time is ticking - my current embroidery project must be finished this coming Monday, April 2nd. I thought I'd post an update on it. Right now, I have just a few more steps to go.

I began this embroidery project about seven and a half weeks ago, working on it mostly at night outside of work hours, and on weekends. I've made a few mistakes along the way, especially in ordering supplies (which is a big mistake, considering just about everything had to be mail-ordered).

If you want to see the progress of the project, you can check out these phases:

  • Beginning of the project: the project is mounted and the design transferred, with a little bit of the grass in.
  • Second Update: the book is finished and the sky is going in. I took the sky out and opted for a different approach.
  • Third Update: The flat silk is laid in for the sky. I had to correct some parts of it. The halo is also begun.
  • Fourth Update: half the sky is couched with #4 gold passing (2% gold).

When you seen how far I still have to go, you might think I'll never make it. I'm pretty determined to make it, so we shall see! I still have to complete the whole lamb, then add the tufts of grass and some little flowers on the "hill," and then couch the gold around the edge.

Agnus Dei ecclesiastical embroidery project


So here you can see the whole effect of the work so far. I have a little "tweaking" to do on the halo, but overall, I like the effect. Had I known originally that I would do gold between the red parts of the halo, I would have stitched them in a different order. I originally planned on doing white in there, but when I started, it didn't look so good - so I tore it out and went with gold.

Close up on halo, gold couched with red silk


You can see the halo a little better here. I'm disappointed, personally, in my red couching stitches, especially on the lower left portion of the halo. Live and learn. On that section, too, I made the mistake of plunging the ends as I worked - tsk tsk. It makes a difference in the finished look. The other sections, where I plunged the ends after couching, look flatter.

Close up on gold couching in halo and sky


And here's a better shot - you can see the sky and the halo pretty well. I surrounded the outer rim of the halo with the same dark red silk found on the edge inside the halo.

goldwork couched with silk - difficult area


This little area in here was perhaps the most difficult to work. This is the only place on the whole thing so far where I'm glad I did the sky first. I'm sure the sky should have been done first, but there are a few areas where I would have made little corrections in the design if the sky were not already in.

Agnus Dei banner worked in silk in stem stitch


Here's a close up on the top of the banner, near the staff. The banner is worked in a combination of colors: overall, it is white with a red cross. To shade the white around the turns, I used cream and 'brute' - a kind of champagne color.

Agnus Dei banner worked in silk in stem stitch


And here's one of the tips of the banner, shaded in the same colors as the top part of it. I outlined the banner in a brown, to supply a contrast. I want the banner, halo, and lamb to stand out from the sky.

And so there you have it so far! I have six days left to finish it, the majority of which are spent at work teaching and such, so wish me luck!

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Monday, March 05, 2007

Embroidery Project Update 3 - The Sky is In

 
This embroidery project has me fully occupied! I have been working around the clock, trying to meet an impending deadline, and finally, after this week, I've got the sky in (more or less). Here some photo updates of this project, which includes lots of teachniques: needlepainting, Italian stitch, goldwork, couching, etc.


Worked in semi-flat silk in very long satin stitches that will eventually be couched over with gold passing thread, the sky in this project consists of four colors of blue in a gradiant going upwards. You can see it in the photo below:



Overall, I like the effect, but there are some adjustments that I will be making this week. For example, considering the gradiant from light blue to medium (the first color change going upwards), the change is too sudden, and the right side of the design does not match the left as well as I would like it to. So I will blend some of the medium colors into the light and some of the light into the medium, hopefully correcting the problem.

You can also see a few buckles here and there in the silk. That is the difficulty of working in such long spaces of satin stitch. Normally, you wouldn't cover this much of a distance in a continual strand of thread. But since I will be couching over with the gold, this will secure the silk. In the meantime, the silk is in a precarious situation, and the slightest thing can catch it: hands, fingernails, loose threads lying on the work - the whole endeavor is rather strenuous when it comes to taking care of that silk!



My favorite part of the sky is the very top. I like the way this gradiant worked - it looks natural, and the blend is very gradual. I also like the color of blue here. I'm not super-keen on the very light blue at the base of the design, but as it works upwards, I like it better.



I began working on the nimbus, or halo, while I was waiting for the rest of my silk to arrive. The red portions of the halo are worked in long and short stitch, in three shades of red. the outer, darker shade will provide a slight "shadow" when the goldwork is done around the outside of the halo.



A close up on the long-and-short stitching. This technique is not as difficult as it seems, although beginners seem to shy away from it. Once you get the basic technique of long and short stitch down, you will find it's really a very "forgiving" stitch. You can sneak stitches in here and there to even things up or fill in tiny spaces, etc. I love this stitch!



And here's another close up on the beginning of the long and short stitch on the halo. The longer stitches worked in the middle are my directional stitches - you can mark these on with a pencil, but I occasionally stitch them in with one of the shades of thread I'm using. I can cover them up completely or work them into the color scheme, depending on the design.



And, finally, the beginning of the couching over the silk. To keep the spacing even, I originally marked off quarter-inch sections around the top and bottom of the quatrefoil. However, approaching it this way, I'd have to stretch my gold passing down the length of the design and match up the marks. I didn't like that idea because it seems to me that it may lead to waste. So instead, I'm counting off the threads in the linen (it's an even-weave) in the middle of the design and at the top of the design, and lining the passing up this way.

Before couching, I run my couching thread (Au Ver a Soie 100/3 in gold) through beeswax to give it extra strength and to protect it from the gold.

So there it is so far. I'm certainly open to any suggestions or constructive criticism!! Thanks!

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Saturday, March 03, 2007

Embroidery Designer Spotlight: Helen M. Stevens

 
Helen M. Stevens is currently one of the UK's foremost embroidery designers and educators. Her books are popular all over the world - I have four of them myself, and intend for my collection to keep growing.

Helen Stevens not only offers on-site, in-person embroidery classes, but she even offers on-line video classes through the Helen M. Stevens Website. Here, you can find an array of classes in her specialty, which is needlepainting.



Helen Stevens's online classes range from beginner to advanced, and feature needlepainting projects illustrating flowers and animals. They echo the quality projects found in her books, but I would imagine that the classes are even more effective than her books, since you can view video clips of every part of each project. If you think it's something you would like, try her free class. I like the video clips - they don't last too long, but they show the essentials.

Helen's work features Piper's silk, conveniently wound on tubes (this is a great sell-point to me when it comes to flat or softly-twisted silk). I've never tried Piper's and I'm not sure what it looks like close up. From the photos, it looks a lot like the silk from the Japanese Embroider Center, but I have no idea, as I haven't tried Piper's. Piper's Silk is located in the UK, and their website indicates that orders can take up to 21 days for shipping within the UK. I assume the wait must be longer for an order from the US! I have not found any specific purveyors in the US, although I am certain there must be, given the popularity of Helen Stevens's books. On Fritillary, the website which sells Helen Stevens "goods" (fabric, notecards, tools and accessories, threads, and fabrics), you can find True Embroideries Sleave Silk which looks like Piper's silk under a different name.



The Embroiderer's Year is one of the several books I have by Helen Stevens, and I like it very much! Although we're always advised to never judge a book by its cover, the cover is what sold me on this book, and I'm not sorry for it!

Going back to my previous blurb on kits and designers, I don't think you could go wrong withHelen Stevens's projects and designs for anyone wanting to learn and perfect the technique of needlepainting.

While you're checking out her site, be sure to check out Fritillary. There's some beautiful stuff on there! The silk cabinet and the Bobbin Joe (both found under furnishings) look like fantastic additions to any embroiderer's stock of accessories. They'd make perfect gifts. Too bad my family doesn't frequent my site - or I'd leave a really BIG hint!

Remember when ordering from the UK that there's a hefty difference between the British pound and the American dollar - and that you'll also be paying a pretty penny in shipping, with a longer wait than usual. The ideal would be to find a US distributor who sells Helen Stevens supplies and such. If anyone has any resources available, I'm all ears!

Thanks to Marilyn for suggesting the topic!

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