Gold embroidery needles! A somewhat exciting concept, don't you think? The richness of gold, coating the outside of the needle for a beautiful and smooth finish - to make the needle better for stitching. This is the concept, anyway, but does it hold true?

Some embroiderers have told me that they stitch exclusively with gold needles because of allergies. They find that other needles tarnish quickly in their hands, or bother their skin. In these cases, they've found that gold needles are a good solution for them. But if you don't have skin allergies or reactions to regular steel needles, what is the advantage of stitching with a gold needle?

Most needles today are made out of high carbon steel that is stretched to the correct size, cut, sharpened, punched, and plated with nickel. Hence, folks with nickel allergies usually look for specialty needles that are plated with something else. That something else can be gold or platinum. Here, we're looking specifically at gold-plated needles.

According to various descriptions of gold needles (in retail shops, manufacturers websites, etc.), gold needles are superior to other needles and are resistant to corrosion from humidy and body oils. According to one website, "gold needles cost a little more than steel but they impart a real sense of quality to your needlework."

Available here in the US, the most common gold needles are made by DMC, which offers 18k gold plated embroidery and tapestry needles in various sizes. John James (made in England, but widely available in the US) also makes a line of gold needles, though I am uncertain of the range of gold needles they produce. I know they produce gold tapestry needles in sizes sizes 20 - 28, and petite tapestry needles in sizes 22 - 28. If you have a popular needle company in your own country and are interested in gold-plated needles, you might want to check to see if they produce any gold plated embroidery needles.

Now, about the needles specifically. Are they really "better"? Do they really "impart a sense of quality to your needlework"? (Um - logically speaking, I don't think that claim flies, but anyway...) They cost more, certainly. For about a dollare more than a package of six John James regular tapestry needles, you can purchase three John James gold plated needles. So they cost more than twice as much as regular needles. Incidentally, John James platinum coated needles cost about $2.50 more per package, and you get... 2.



In the photo above, the needle on the left is a size 26 gold-plates tapestry needle (by John James). The needle on the right is a regular steel needle plated with nickel, John James, tapestry #26.

I started using the gold-plated needle because I was looking for a #26 needle, and I had a package of gold plated ones close at hand, so I grabbed 'em. I used this particular gold-plated needle in the photo above for several hours of stitching - probably six hours all told.

When I first started stitching with it, I did notice a different "feel" to the needle. Really! It feels different as it passes through the fabric. It is pleasantly smooth, and it almost seems "squeaky" smooth as it goes through the fabric. There's no resistence or anything, but there is definitely a different feel to it. It glides in a squeaky clean kind of way. (How do you describe how a needle feels??!)

So, away I stitched.



I really hadn't thought too hard about gold-plated needles before this particular incident of stitching. I have a few gold needles, but have never used them any length of time.



In the photo above, the needle on the left is the one I used for about six hours. The needle on the right is new from the package.



But, this is the thing - and I realize it may just be an individual difference in skin and body chemistry, so you can't take this as an absolutely "objective" review of gold-plated needles. After about six hours of stitching with the gold-plated needle, it started to feel "sticky" as it passed through the fabric, rather than smooth and squeaky. I had to push it through - it had stopped gliding smoothly.

On closer inspection, the wear on the coating was obvious. On the shaft of the needle, there were darker areas of wear, and, as you can see in the photo above, the shaft is dull rather than softly shiny.

I still like the initial feel of the gold needles, and I am going to use the other two. I'll try cleaning my hands a different way to see if that helps allay the corrosion of the gold finish.

But I have to admit, since I haven't experienced any allergy problems with nickel, or any corrosion problems with the standard list of needles that I use - John James, Richard Hemming (not my absolute faves, but they're ok), Bohin, and some Wendy Schoen needles - I probably won't make a habit of paying extra for gold coating.

That being said, I really do think I need to try platinum! Just for curiosity's sake!

What are your experiences with gold plated needles? Do you use them? Have you ever had corrosion issues? How about with regular nickel-plated needles? Any insights!

Have a terrific Friday!

Labels: needles, needlework tools, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, September 11, 2009
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Do you ever get to that point in your stitching where you have just a couple more stitches, but ooooooh - your thread is running out and you're pretty sure your needle isn't going to let you go any further? I experienced that a couple times last week. What's the solution? Petites.

Tapestry petites are little needles - a full quarter inch smaller than a regular sized tapestry needle - and they are ideal for getting the most out of your thread.



These needles, stuck in the needle felt block I keep my Japanese hand-made needles in, are both size 28 tapestry needles. Tapestry needles have a long eye and a blunt tip and are the ideal needle for counted thread work, needlepoint, petit point, and other techniques where you need a blunt tip that will help you avoid splitting fabric threads.

The needle on the left in the photo above is the tapestry petite.

You would not think that a quarter of an inch on a needle would make all that much difference, but it really does! The short needle allows you to work closer to the end of your thread, getting the most stitch coverage out of it, while still being able to manipulate the needle underneath the threads on the back when you're ready to tie off.

Tapestry petites do require some getting used to! That little needle, especially in a size 28 (which is relatively small for tapestry needles) is much more delicate, so your fingers have to get used to finding it. But once you're used to the smaller needle, you'll find it's a great tool for your stitching needs.



Tapestry petites come in different brands, but the local needlework shop where I bought my last bunch of needles only carries John James. That's quite ok - these are pretty good needles. I've never had a problem with them, even after long-term use.

One online source that I really like for needles, especially if I'm buying in bulk, is Colonial Needle. They have just about every type of needle you'd want for regular handwork, and their prices, shipping, and customer service are hard to beat.

So, if you're looking to get a bit more out of your thread, next time you buy needles, consider picking up some tapestry petites. I think you'll like them!

How about you? Do you use petites? Do you like them? What's your Favorite Needle?

Labels: needles, needlework tools, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, September 08, 2009
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The article on the needle roll made out of felt sparked a couple questions about what I keep in my needlework toolbox. I never really considered carefully what should be kept in a needlework toolbox; instead, my collection of tools has grown pretty much out of need. It's an eclectic bunch of little things, all of which I have found use for in varying degrees of frequency. No doubt, the ideal contents of a toolbox will vary among embroiderers.

This is my stash of tools that I keep encased in a box in my embroidery basket.



Upon first opening the box, this is what you see - a more or less generally cluttered disarray of stuff.



There are, of course, scissors. I have eight pairs of scissors, but only three that I use regularly. One is used exclusively for goldwork, and the other two are used interchangeably for snipping threads and bits of fabric.



There are three measuring instruments: a small retractable tape measure (courtesy of Hedgehog Handworks), a 6" x 1" quilter's ruler, and a hem measurer (for lack of the correct name of that thing). I use them all pretty frequently, but probably the hem measurer and quilter's ruler most often.



You'll also find some... well, tools, for lack of a better categorical name. From top to bottom: tweezers, a laying tool, a tiny crochet hook, and a mellore all get used pretty frequently. I use tweezers to manipulate goldwork thread, to pick up tiny things, to pull out thread bits, and so forth. The laying tool (with a sharp tip that can be used as an awl) is used to keep threads in line. The crochet hook comes in handy for pulling threads through in tight spots. And the silver mellore is used to manipulate metal threads.



I keep some very large needles on hand - these are upholstery needles. I don't use them much, but they come in handy for lacing up fabric and so forth. The needlethreader is rarely used, but I do admit that in a tight spot, for teeny tiny needles (minute beading needles and sometimes a #12 crewel), I use it if I need to. And you can also see a bunch of cotter pins that anchor the slats on my slate frame.



This is a leather thimble. I never use a thimble, normally, but sometimes, if I'm working on something that's tough to get a needle through, I do slip this on for extra protection on my middle finger, which is the finger I generally use for pushing my needle. I have a permanent callus on that finger from my needles, but if I'm using a smaller needle, it often has the uncanny ability to find the one weak spot in the calloused area, where it decides to slip eye-first into my finger. That can be painful. So now and then, and leather thimble can be helpful.



I keep three types of pencils and pens in my toolbox: two are micron art pens, one is a mechanical pencil, and the other is a white chalk pencil for marking on darker fabric. You just never know when you might need to make an adjustment in a pattern or draw something on a piece of fabric. I use all three of these fairly often.



This is a spool of silk couching thread that I use for goldwork. I don't know why I keep it in the box, but I do. I think it's just so that I have some thread in there.



This is a magnetic needleminder. All my metal tools in the box find it at one point or another. I use this on larger projects where I might have several threaded needles going at once. Right now, I'm not working on any large projects, so it's in the box!



This is a brick of beeswax for waxing threads, especially for goldwork. You never know when the urge to wax your thread might strike! But when you're working with metal threads, most of your couching thread will need a nice coat of wax on it. I love beeswax. I like the smell of it!



This beautiful tool was treat. I bought it when Twining Thread was still in business. I miss Twining Thread! This is called a Soldier's Friend. It's made out of the slickest, smoothest, prettiest wood. Around the notches, you can wind extra lengths of thread, and the end comes off the handle to provide a storage place for needles. I don't "use" it a lot, but until the other day, I did have thread wound on it. Isn't it pretty? It's probably the most decorative of my tools, and the least used. But I do like it, and I have used it, so it's not really just a decorative, non-functional tool.



This is a mother of pearl thread ring. I usually have six or so of these floating in the bottom of the box, either in the large size or the small size. But right now, I've got the rest of them trussed up with thread.



And, finally (you might find this odd!), I keep fingernail clippers and an emery board in there, too, for smoothing or clipping fingernails when they become snaggy. I don't like sitting down to embroider, only to discover a chipped nail before I start, and then having to go find these two items! So I bought a set specifically for my tool box, and you'd be surprised how often I actually DO use them! They're great to have right on hand!



Along with all this is my needle roll, and it all tucks very nicely into this box with a little silk ribbon embroidery on the lid. The box has a pretty firm magnet seal. It holds the lid closed even upside-down with all that stuff in it, so if it tips over or is knocked off the couch, or whatever, it usually stays tightly closed.

I have other tools that aren't kept in this box. In fact, I have two more similar boxes, but I don't use them much, and the tools I have in them aren't as serviceable as those shown here.

So that, my friends, is what I keep in my box. What do you keep in yours? Is there any item you're surprised I don't have? Or anything here you think particularly odd? Out with it! Let's talk tools!

Labels: embroidery tips and tricks, needles, needlework tools, pictures, readers questions

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, December 20, 2008
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How do you keep your embroidery needles secure in one spot? Do you use a needle book? A pin cushion? A needle box, or a needle tube? I'll show you what I use. You probably won't be THAT impressed! But, hey. It works!

I've always wanted to make a Really Pretty Needlebook, one that looks nice but is comfortably functional and can hold a lot of needles and take up minimal space. I haven't done it yet. I made that felt tool / needlebook thingy, but that's not really what I had in mind, and that whole project was a bit of an accident, anyway. I was thinking more along the lines of something a bit more upscale, like the needlebook patterns you often see in Inspirations Magazine, or something along those lines.

Instead, my needle storage is a little... well. Haphazard, if you can call it that.

Just for reference, I'm referring to the needles I use daily - the ones I reach for when I sit down to embroider. One day, about a year ago, I was cleaning up. You know how it is when you're cleaning up? Well, when I clean up, I get into a kind of organizing frenzy, and I generally find that I am dissatisfied with the way something or another is organized (or not organized) in the mess I'm trying to clean up! On this particular clean-up day, I was cleaning up my needlework basket. I didn't like my needle receptacle, which was a plastic case called a Needle Safe, which has a magnetic base. All my needles invariably got dumped in there, only to become mutually attracted to each other and settle into various lumps of Magnetic Bliss. They didn't lay out where I could see them well. No, no. I just didn't like it.

So I improvised a little needle roll, telling myself it was only temporary, until I made my Ideal Needlebook.

For a year I've used this little Thirty Second Improvisation Job, and I realized the other day that I like it a lot! It has served me well.

If you're looking for a handy way to store your daily needles, you might try it, too. This is a super-easy way to make a needle roll, it'll take you about thirty seconds to make it, and, if you have some scraps of wool felt on hand, it won't cost you anything - not even time!

Here it is:



I took two scraps of wool felt in contrasting colors. I had some scraps of dark green and some scraps of a kind of cranberry color that were pretty nice, so I figured they'd do. They were both long rectangles.

The green felt is about 3.5 inches high and 8.5 inches long, but you can make it higher or longer or shorter or whatever size you wish, as long as its height is enough to accommodate the length of your longer needles. The cranberry felt is about half an inch smaller all around than the green felt.



I then cut two little slits in the green felt for a ribbon (the plaid strip in the diagram above). There's one slit on one end of the green felt, and one slit about two inches from the first slit, towards the middle of the green felt. They're just tiny slits, for a quarter-inch ribbon. I didn't stitch around the slits or anything. I just snipped them and ran a ribbon through them as illustrated, and that was it.

Then I placed the cranberry felt on top of the green felt. I didn't sew it on or anything.



The way I figured it was that the friction between the cranberry and the green felt would hold the cranberry felt in place. Actually, as I stuck needles in, the needles helped secure the cranberry felt to the green by passing through a bit of the green, too, but the felt is thick enough that the needles don't pass through the outside of the green felt.



I rolled it up from the right side of the needle roll, towards the sides with the slits, and tied the ribbon around the roll.

And my needles have been happily encased in this makeshift needleroll for a year now. It's a convenient, user-friendly roll that took about 30 seconds to put together.



It fits perfectly into my little tool box, which fits perfectly into my needlework basket!

So, how do you store your daily needles? If you're looking for a convenient way to store them and you have some scraps of felt lying around, try this! You might like it, too!

Labels: embroidery tips and tricks, needlecase, needles, needlework tutorials, organization, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, December 17, 2008
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Last night, I had the opportunity to work with these really interesting new needles on the market called Spiral Eye Needles. The point behind them (no pun intended!) is that you don't have to "thread" them the same way you do regular needles. So let's take a look at the Spiral Eye needle and see what it's all about.

There are two sizes of Spiral Eye needles - SE1 and SE2. SE1 is apparently suited for hand sewing and is similar to a sharp, size 4, and shaft-wise, equivalent to about a size 22 tapestry needle. SE2 is similar to a size 6 embroidery (or crewel) needle.



From left to right, you can see the SE1 (sharp, size 4), the SE2 (embroidery, size 6) and a regular size 7 crewel needle (Richard Hemming, I believe...)

The Spiral Eye needles are significantly larger, overall, than a regular embroidery needle:



You can see there the size of the needle shafts. The shafts are made from surgical quality stainless steel, unplated. The advantage to the unplated stainless steel is that you can sharpen them and they clean up well, so you don't have to pitch them when they've been over-used! Also, on the website for the Sprial Eye needle, they point out that most needles are coated with nickel, which some people are allergic to, so the stainless steel needle eliminates the question of nickel allergies.



This is the SE2, upclose. I didn't experiment with this particular needle. I notice that they are not presently available through the Spiral Eye website. I'm hoping they're working out some kinks in this needle. I like the size of it - it's not too big - but on both SE2s that I had, minor problems popped up. On one, the problem was threading and on the other, there was a burr in the eye - something you definitely don't want when you pay $5 for a needle! So I think perhaps the makers are working out those problems right now.

I tested and worked with the SE1 quite a bit, though.



It holds up to three strands of DMC cotton. It's super-easy to thread the needle - you just pinch the thread and slide it up the shaft and it pops right into the eye. If you're working with several strands of stranded cotton at a time, you have to thread each strand individually. All three together are too thick for the side opening on the needle. It doesn't take any time at all, really. They just slide right in.



This is a stitch in process here. I half-way expected the needle to catch on the fabric on the way back up, but it doesn't. It passes through the fabric very easily.



It occurred to me that an needle with an opening on the side might cause some difficulty with stitches like French knots, so I set about testing it with some of those.



It pulled through easily, without any hang-ups...



...resulting in nice French knots.



So I put the needle to work on a little piece of felt, anywhere I used stranded cotton. And it worked just fine!

Spiral Eye Needles in Summary

1. The little difficulties I experienced with both SE2 needles probably need to be straightened out before they are marketed too widely!

2. The SE1 is great for stitching with stranded cotton, up to three strands.

3. They really are easy to thread, and the thread does not come unthreaded like the calyx eye (top threading) needles do.

4. But, if you're using more than one strand of floss, you have to thread each strand individually.

5. But it doesn't take any time to do so - and if your strip your floss, anyway, I don't think this is any big deal.

6. The real advantage to these needles, I think, is for people who have a hard time threading regular needles because of eye sight problems or arthritis. The website suggests their use for children, which I suppose could be true, too, but I find, with teaching children, that heavier threads are better to use, and these needles won't accommodate heavier threads.

7. No, they won't work for heavier threads, such as crewel wool or even pearl cotton #12. They're great with any sewing or even heavy quilting thread, and they work great with one strand of DMC threaded at a time. But the heavier threads won't fit in the side opening. So, in this sense, they have a limited use.

I like the feel of the needles - they're smooth and tough. They're absolutely strong - bending them with your fingers is almost out of the question. It's quite obvious that they're made out of high quality material, with attention to detail, and made to last.

If you're looking for a Spiral Eye needle - a needle that's easy to thread and well-made - check out the Spiral Eye Needles website, where you can get the low-down on the company and their products.

While you're there, note their little motto: "A stitch in time saves nine ... but you still have to thread the needle!" Funny!

If you've tried these needles - or other "non-threading" needles (like the calyx needles) - please do let the rest of us know your thoughts about them! I'd like to hear what others have to say.

Labels: embroidery resources, gift ideas, needles, needlework tools, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, October 25, 2008
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For most people, Mondays are met like the plague, but I like Mondays, and I LOVE Mondays with mail. I don't get a lot of mail, so when I do, it's rather exciting. Today, I received two little packages - one with thread, and the other with needles. What else in the world could be more appropriate, I ask you! Would you like to see?....

New Embroidery Threads to Try!

The first little package contained two types of embroidery thread, Soy Luster and Baroque Silk, from The Pure Palette.



They're Really Pretty Threads! The two purples are Soy Luster, made from (right!) soy. One is solid and the other variegated. The red is Baroque silk, which is 100% silk. It's so pretty. The picture can't do it justice!

I haven't used either thread yet, but I'm going to, and I'll write up a comparison so you can see what they're like lined up to other familiar threads. I'll also give you the low-down on the threads, where you can find them, and so forth. I can't wait to try this stuff out!

And New Needles, Too!

Now, the needles are funny. Not ha-ha funny, but peculiar funny. They're called "Spiral Eye" needles, and they're made for easy threading, because you don't have to "thread" it in the same way. I haven't tried stitching with one of them yet - or even threading them! - but I will, and when I do, I'll tell you all about them and what I think of this nifty invention. They aren't calyx needles, in case you're wondering. Here's what the Spiral Eye needle looks like:



The needle is actually very small. Close-up photos always make things look much larger than reality! I'm eager to try this and to let you know what it's like. It looks like it will be a great option for those who have a hard time keeping their needles threaded.

So that was my Monday mail! And both packages have given me plenty to do! I like testing threads and tools...

Coming Up This Week on Needle 'n Thread

Coming up this week, I'll continue with information for the very beginning beginners on beginning and ending threads. Actually, I think this kind of information is also good for those of us who have been stitching for a while. I love hearing how other people do the basics, just in case there's a better way!

I've also got a book review coming up on a unique ecclesiastical embroidery book. And speaking of books, I'm going to do a book giveaway on a nice book called Heirloom Embroidery.

I've started couching the gold around the outside of my Christmas ornament, so I'm sure I'll be able to share that with you before the end of this week! I also helped my niece set up a needlebook that she's going to embroider for her Home Ec class assignment, and it's kind of cute - bulky, but cute. She's coming over Wednesday for studio time, so I'll get photos of it then. (Hopefully, she's made progress on it!)

I have a gorgeous reader's embroidery to post for you, too, and who knows what else?

This coming weekend, I'll be helping out with my family at a local international cultural festival, so I'll be pre-writing several posts in order to fit in all the weekend events. We're doing a Welsh exhibit, and cooking for... oh.... 1,500 or so. Should be fun!

Busy week! I'm looking forward to it, and I hope you are, too!

Labels: needles, needlework tools, pictures, threads, website news

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, October 20, 2008
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Why would anyone want a hand-made needle? Surely, a hand-made needle must be some roughly hewn large thing unbefitting to fine embroidery work!! Well, you might think that, but the fact is, whether you pursue Japense embroidery or not, having a few hand-made needles among your embroidery tools is a good idea!

Although I have several books on Japanese embroidery, I have never formally studied the techniques, so my hand-made needles aren't actually used in Japanese embroidery. These unique needles come in handy for working with real metal threads, with any smaller cord-like threads, and even just with your regular embroidery floss.

The advantage of hand-made needles is all in the eye. Because they are hand bored and not punched out by a machine, there is no "crimp" or ridge on the inside of the needle. The holes are nice and smooth.

This smooth round hole helps reduce the wear and tear on threads from the eyes of regular needles. With goldwork, this is important. You see, if you use a regular needle in goldwork (especially with gold-wrapped threads that you are planning to pass through the ground fabric), the ridge inside the edge of a regular needle can cut through the outside wrapping of gold on the core thread. When you pull the needle through the ground fabric, if your gold has split from the core, you risk the gold bunching up as you pull the thread through. Hand bored needles help you avoid this dilemma.

As for hand made needles being bulky or large, it depends on the size. The tiny #3 hand-made Japanese needle is so small that you can't stitch one strand of DMC with it. If you split your strand of DMC in half (single strands of DMC are made up of a two-ply twisted thread), you can manage one ply (half the strand) in the eye, if you can see it to thread it! In other words, the #3 is a pretty small needle. So the hand made needles can be very tiny, but they can also be pretty large - able to accommodate gold passing thread easily.



Here, you can see the sizes of the hand-made needles I own. They are laid out on 8-square-per-inch graph paper. The #13 is large and has a bulky look to it. (It's the one on the far right, with the number cut off.) The #3 on the left is pretty darned tiny!



This is the #7 needle, threaded with Gilt Sylke Twist. A #5 is too small for this thread, and I don't have a #6 to try. I haven't tried the thread yet with this needle, so I can't say exactly how well it works! Once I get caught up with my regular work, I'm going to be testing different techniques with the GST. I figure the #7 needle will work fine for it. The #10 seems too big - as if there would be too large a whole left in the fabric after the needle and thread passed through. We shall see!!



Good things come in small packages! This is the dark green GST here - the "dusty" look on it is actually the sparke from the gold. Very nice color! And amazingly fine stuff!

You can find hand-made Japanese needles through the Japanese Embroidery Center in Atlanta. They are a valuable and reliable resource, and, if you do order from them, I think you'll be pleased both with the products and the service.

I'm looking forward to playing with these needles and thread soon and posting the results for you! If you have any questions or any suggestions about any testing you'd like to see with the GST ("What kind of embroidery can you do with this thread?") just let me know! I'll be happy to see if I can accommodate any specific requests for trials.

Labels: needles, needlework tools, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, March 25, 2008
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Once you have an embroidery project set up and ready to go - fabric selected, design transferred, threads lined up - perhaps the most important thing to consider is what embroidery needle to use. There are all kinds of different types of embroidery needles - which one to use depends on your fabric and thread. The thing is, within the "types" of needles, you also have the consideration of quality. Here, I'm looking at embroidery needles from a company called Pony.

Normally, I use "fine English needles" for my embroidery projects. Richard Hemming, John James, Mary Arden, and S. Thomas & Sons are pretty much the brands I've stuck with over the years. They're reliable and fairly easy to come by. You sometimes can find them in hobby and craft stores (in a very limited range), but you will find a better range at your local needlework shop. You can also find them online through almost any needlework or fabric shop, or through one of my favorite needle sources, Colonial Needle. I also have a marvelous selection of very fine needles from Wendy Schoen Designs, but I don't use them as often because they're wrapped up and my supply is limited. (But I do love those needles!) So that's my plug for the needles I typically use.

Recently, though, Michael Cook of Wormspit.com e-mailed me about some needles that he had come upon and finally tracked down. The manufacturer is Pony, from India, and the needles are used by the Chinese in their fine and detailed hand embroidery. After some contact with the company, he received a shipment of the needles to try. He kindly sent me a selection of #10, #11, and #12 - three each with gold eyes, plus one fully gilded needle in each size.

It was a while before I could work with the needles, but finally, yesterday I took out a small project and used the needles on it. It's a thread painting project, worked in one strand of DMC in a high count cotton muslin.

I generally use a #10 needle on these projects, but mostly because I'm too lazy to go through my supplies and get other needles out. I always have #10 on hand!

Instead, I decided to try the #11 Pony, and they were perfect. They made those meticulously placed little stitches easy, and they are slightly finer than #10, which seemed to make a difference on the split stitching in the long and short stitch in tiny, detailed areas. In short, I liked the #11! I had all four threaded and working on the project at once. There is a slightly different feel to the fully guilded needle, but I can't really place or describe what's different about it. It passes through the threads and the fabric easily, but it "feels" as if there's a coating on it, because there is. It's not a bad feeling, and in fact, I like working with the needle. But there is a slightly different "something" about it.



Here are the needles, two of each, one of which is the gilded one. I've laid them on 8-square-per-inch graph paper so you can get an idea of the size.



Here they are again, with a #10 Richard Hemming needle (left). The #10 Pony and the #10 Richard Hemming are the same length, as far as I can tell, even though the Pony looks longer (it's the placement on the paper).

I threaded both #10s (R.H. and Pony) with one strand of DCM and stitched with them, one needle right after the other, to see if I could tell a difference in size or feel. The Pony needle feels slightly finer than the Richard Hemming, which is what Michael found as well.



One strand of DMC also fits well in the #12 Pony - BUT... it doesn't work well on tightly woven or high count fabric, as it takes a pit of a tug to get it through. It works fine on something a little looser, though.

Michael has some photos of the Pony needles really close up, so you can get a good look at the eyes.

The long and short of it:

I like the Pony needles. I'm going to keep using them on my present project to see how they stand up. They bend slightly - I don't know how they will wear over a little more use - but I don't mind a needle that bends. In fact, I like it! It gets "comfortable."

The #10 Pony seems slightly finer than the #10 Richard Hemming.

The #11 Pony works well with 1 strand of DMC on a high count quality muslin.

Most people will probably need a needle threader for the #12 with a strand of DMC.

To find Pony needles, contact Hedgehog Handworks. Michael spoke to Joady about carrying them, and they will be apparently getting in the gold-eye variety.

One Final Note: On Threading Needles!!

Don't lick your thread or wet your needle eye to thread your needles! Ok, if you have an endless supply of needles and you don't mind switching out, fine - lick away. I've heard lots of reasons why "you shouldn't lick your embroidery thread" - the ones are important and cause for concern are:

1. The Main Reason: Wet thread through the eye of a needle can cause the needle to "rust" (in a very tiny way) right inside the eye of the needle, which can cause little burrs that are hard on your threads, cause waste of thread, and can even cause damage to your project without your really realizing what is happening.

2. The habit of wetting thread can work against you the one time you're playing with a thread that has been unfortunate enough not to hold on to its dye. In these days of hand over-dyed thread, risking a mark on clean fabric is not really worth it.

3. If you work with silk embroidery threads, I'm pretty sure that licking silk is something akin to sacreligious. Silk also weakens when it's wet.

Tomorrow, I'll show you some photos of hand-made Japanese needles. And to top off the whole needle discussion, I'd love to hear how all you non-lickers out there thread your needles! I'll cover how I do it, too.

Labels: needles, needlework tools, pictures

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Monday, March 24, 2008
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