Saturday, December 20, 2008

The Needlework Toolbox... My Version, Anyway

The article on the needle roll made out of felt sparked a couple questions about what I keep in my needlework toolbox. I never really considered carefully what should be kept in a needlework toolbox; instead, my collection of tools has grown pretty much out of need. It's an eclectic bunch of little things, all of which I have found use for in varying degrees of frequency. No doubt, the ideal contents of a toolbox will vary among embroiderers.

This is my stash of tools that I keep encased in a box in my embroidery basket.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


Upon first opening the box, this is what you see - a more or less generally cluttered disarray of stuff.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


There are, of course, scissors. I have eight pairs of scissors, but only three that I use regularly. One is used exclusively for goldwork, and the other two are used interchangeably for snipping threads and bits of fabric.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


There are three measuring instruments: a small retractable tape measure (courtesy of Hedgehog Handworks), a 6" x 1" quilter's ruler, and a hem measurer (for lack of the correct name of that thing). I use them all pretty frequently, but probably the hem measurer and quilter's ruler most often.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


You'll also find some... well, tools, for lack of a better categorical name. From top to bottom: tweezers, a laying tool, a tiny crochet hook, and a mellore all get used pretty frequently. I use tweezers to manipulate goldwork thread, to pick up tiny things, to pull out thread bits, and so forth. The laying tool (with a sharp tip that can be used as an awl) is used to keep threads in line. The crochet hook comes in handy for pulling threads through in tight spots. And the silver mellore is used to manipulate metal threads.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


I keep some very large needles on hand - these are upholstery needles. I don't use them much, but they come in handy for lacing up fabric and so forth. The needlethreader is rarely used, but I do admit that in a tight spot, for teeny tiny needles (minute beading needles and sometimes a #12 crewel), I use it if I need to. And you can also see a bunch of cotter pins that anchor the slats on my slate frame.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


This is a leather thimble. I never use a thimble, normally, but sometimes, if I'm working on something that's tough to get a needle through, I do slip this on for extra protection on my middle finger, which is the finger I generally use for pushing my needle. I have a permanent callus on that finger from my needles, but if I'm using a smaller needle, it often has the uncanny ability to find the one weak spot in the calloused area, where it decides to slip eye-first into my finger. That can be painful. So now and then, and leather thimble can be helpful.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


I keep three types of pencils and pens in my toolbox: two are micron art pens, one is a mechanical pencil, and the other is a white chalk pencil for marking on darker fabric. You just never know when you might need to make an adjustment in a pattern or draw something on a piece of fabric. I use all three of these fairly often.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


This is a spool of silk couching thread that I use for goldwork. I don't know why I keep it in the box, but I do. I think it's just so that I have some thread in there.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


This is a magnetic needleminder. All my metal tools in the box find it at one point or another. I use this on larger projects where I might have several threaded needles going at once. Right now, I'm not working on any large projects, so it's in the box!

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


This is a brick of beeswax for waxing threads, especially for goldwork. You never know when the urge to wax your thread might strike! But when you're working with metal threads, most of your couching thread will need a nice coat of wax on it. I love beeswax. I like the smell of it!

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


This beautiful tool was treat. I bought it when Twining Thread was still in business. I miss Twining Thread! This is called a Soldier's Friend. It's made out of the slickest, smoothest, prettiest wood. Around the notches, you can wind extra lengths of thread, and the end comes off the handle to provide a storage place for needles. I don't "use" it a lot, but until the other day, I did have thread wound on it. Isn't it pretty? It's probably the most decorative of my tools, and the least used. But I do like it, and I have used it, so it's not really just a decorative, non-functional tool.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


This is a mother of pearl thread ring. I usually have six or so of these floating in the bottom of the box, either in the large size or the small size. But right now, I've got the rest of them trussed up with thread.

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


And, finally (you might find this odd!), I keep fingernail clippers and an emery board in there, too, for smoothing or clipping fingernails when they become snaggy. I don't like sitting down to embroider, only to discover a chipped nail before I start, and then having to go find these two items! So I bought a set specifically for my tool box, and you'd be surprised how often I actually DO use them! They're great to have right on hand!

Contents of a Needleworker's Toolbox


Along with all this is my needle roll, and it all tucks very nicely into this box with a little silk ribbon embroidery on the lid. The box has a pretty firm magnet seal. It holds the lid closed even upside-down with all that stuff in it, so if it tips over or is knocked off the couch, or whatever, it usually stays tightly closed.

I have other tools that aren't kept in this box. In fact, I have two more similar boxes, but I don't use them much, and the tools I have in them aren't as serviceable as those shown here.

So that, my friends, is what I keep in my box. What do you keep in yours? Is there any item you're surprised I don't have? Or anything here you think particularly odd? Out with it! Let's talk tools!

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Tuesday, October 07, 2008

Reader's Treasure: An Embroidered Footstool in Crewel

Quite a while ago, Stephi contacted me with pictures of a footstool that's been in her family since as long as she can remember. I think it's a charming piece of needlework, so I thought I'd let you take a look, too!

Stephi's mom dabbled in antiques, and now Stephi has ended up with many of the treasures her mother collected. Among them was this footstool, which she'd like to know something about. I told her the most basic information that I could gather from the picture - specifically, it is crewel work, it looks like it's embroidered on linen twill out of wool. I'm positively no expert on this type of thing, but I did make some suggestions on where she could take it for more accurate information!

In the meantime, the piece is a pleasure to look at - and I like the story it tells (or at least, the story I think it tells!)

Hand Embroidered Footstool in Crewel Work


I like the simple scene - the horseman at a run, through flowered fields and trees, the house in the background... perhaps a young suitor rushing to his sweetheart?

The base of the picture is not really noticed at first glance, but it is the base of the picture, I think, that's most impressive, with the subtle long-and-short stitch shading, and the inset flowers.

Hand Embroidered Footstool in Crewel Work


I like the little red house on the hill, with the strange-looking trees looming over it. The smoke curls up in a welcoming way; supper, perhaps, is being readied? Or the hearth prepared for an evening of good company?

Hand Embroidered Footstool in Crewel Work


An apple tree? Or an oversized rose bush? The variety of shades of pink might point to a rose tree... the roundness of the fruit might point to an apple tree. In any case, it's a splash of color that balances very nicely the red house on the other side of the piece. I'm inclined towards roses, because of the layered look of the pink flowers.

Hand Embroidered Footstool in Crewel Work


Also, the proportion of the blue flowers seems to suggest the previous photo is one of a rose bush. The blue flowers dwarf the rider, just as the rose bush is somewhat grand in size.

Perhaps the rider's going to pass behind the blue flowers, and the large flowers are meant to give a sense of depth to the scene. But if that were the case, the horse's feet would not be showing so far down into the grass in the front.

Perhaps the flowers are just oversized. Maybe in his perfect world, the flowers grow larger than life.

Hand Embroidered Footstool in Crewel Work


There he is, rushing along on his strangely pale horse with the strange rump. As he rushes along, the horse's tail and mane stream out behind (and so does the rider's pony tail, in a stumpy sort of way). The horse's legs gallop, and the rider's posture - leaning forward in anticipation - indicate his eagerness to get wherever it is he's heading. It must be to his sweetheart!

Thanks, Stephi, for sending me the photos! Sorry I can't be of further help on the piece, but perhaps there's a reader out there somewhere who has seen something similar and could share some information about it, or would know of a way to go about getting information on it.

I hope you all enjoyed the photos, too!

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Friday, September 26, 2008

Reader's Question: Stitching Applique and Using DMC

Here's another reader's question that came in this past week. I decided to post it for several reasons: 1. I've received similar questions before; 2. the e-mail came back as non-deliverable, so I'm hoping the reader can find my answer here; and 3. other readers may have some input to help Twyla with her stitching decisions!

There are two points I'd like to admit about myself before I launch into this: 1. I don't know the answer to every needlework question, though I will generally make an effort to find an answer if anyone e-mails me for help; 2. My answer may not be the best answer, or the only answer - there are lots of ways to approach embroidery and needlework and not everyone uses the same techniques.

So that's my blanket statement, and I realize it sounds a lot like a bad excuse just to cover myself. And perhaps it is! Hmmmm.....

Ok, here's Twyla's e-mail:
Hello, I'm thankful for your videos. I like to make quilts and so I ordered a quilt kit called the Catnip Quilt. I live in Japan so I can't just go to a store. Anyway, I ordered all my things on-line and I needed DMC floss for the kitty's whiskers, and stuff like that. I'm using a fusible webb to put on all my cats and I don't want to use my sewing machine to do the applique; I want to do them by hand. That's where your videos have been helpful. I don't know much about embroidery. I decided to use a buttonhole stitch to go around all my applique. I don't know what DMC floss is. I ordered floss; it is 100% cotton and comes in 6 strands but it seems really cheap. So, what is DMC floss compared to other flosses out there?

Also, out of all your videos of stitches, what would be the ones you recommend for going around applique on quilts by hand? Also, how do you know how many strands of floss you use for different ones?

Thanks for any help you can give!

And here's my response:

DMC stranded floss (cotton, 6 strands) is the most widely-available floss here in the US. It's mercerized cotton, so it has a sheen to it, it's fairly strong, and it's fine for stitching. Like any cotton floss, it may pill or fray if you're stitching with long strands through several layers of fabric and fusing. Make sure you stitch with short lengths of floss (no more than 16 inches, I'd say).

The best stitch for around an applique is buttonhole or blanket stitch. The spokes of the stitch go towards the inside of the applique, while the rope-like edge that forms ends right on the applique line. You can vary the width of the stitch, so that the spokes are farther apart or closer together (in fact, you can stitch them right next to each other if you wish), as you choose. It depends on the look you want. Alternately, you can also use an overcast stitch. I don't have a video for overcasting, but essentially, it is just stitching a satin-stitch-type line over the edge of the applique and the ground fabric.

The number of strands you choose for your floss depends upon the size of the applique, and how much is required for the floss to be visible. If the appliques are a regular size (nothing miniature), I'd guess you'd need two strands at least. If they are big appliques, you might go for three strands. Anyway, try both - and then decide what looks best. You'll want to make sure you have a needle with a big enough eye to accommodate the number of strands. A needle that's too small, on this kind of work, will hurt your hands and will cause your thread to pill and fray.

Make sure as well that you strip your floss first. That is, after you cut the length you're going to use, you separate one strand at a time from the piece of floss, until you have the number you're going to use. So, if you're going to work with two threads, you separate two threads from the rest of the floss (individually pulling one thread out at a time), and then you put the two threads back together. This keeps your floss from looking twisted and not giving full coverage.

The best way to strip your floss is to grip about an inch away from one end of the floss with one hand, holding the floss up in front of you so that it's falling towards the floor, with the inch of floss sticking out above your two fingers. Then, with the other hand, pick out one strand from the bunch (above your fingers), and pull straight up out of the group - the rest of the floss hanging below your fingers will pull up as you pull the piece out, but fall again, once the piece is out. If you try stripping your floss just by pulling it straight apart, you'll end up with a knotted mess.

If you have any advice that you want to add to help Twyla with her project, don't hesitate to post a comment down below! Thanks!

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Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Reader's Question: On Using a Scroll Frame for Ribbon Embroidery

 
I thought I'd poll the audience for help on this reader's question. I haven't personally used the type of scroll frame she's talking about for any of my needlework projects, but I thought some of you out there may have, so perhaps you can help her? Read on for the question...

Nean left a comment under Embroidery Hoops and Frames Review, asking the following:
I am new at using scroll frames and am hoping someone can help me, as the frame I just purchased came with no instructions. My project really called for a 14 x 24-inch frame, but I could only find a 9 x 24 scroll frame. It has slitted dowels at the top and bottom. These are the 24-inch long pieces. The side bars are attached via wing nuts. I have slipped my linen into the top and bottom, revealing the middle of my project; however it never seems to tighten sufficiently and I'm also wondering if the split dowels won't snag my ribbon embroidery as I move it along? How do you attach your fabric? How do you keep scrolling it along? Any tips would be most appreciated! Thank you.
This is my answer (besides letting Nean know I would be asking you, too!):
My scroll frames have a canvas tape across the top (scrolling) bars. I attach my fabric to the tape, and then roll it as I progress. I use the wing nuts (which are usually more like three-pointed large plastic knobs for easy turning) to tighten the scroller bars after rolling the fabric.

I don't think we're using the same type of scroll frame, so I was hoping someone could help her out?

If you've used this type of scroll frame and can help us all out with a good tip, please leave a comment below!

Thanks heaps!

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