Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Hand Embroidered Handkerchief of the Vintage Variety

Foraging in the studio yesterday for my black threads had its advantages: I came across some treasures that I had (admittedly) forgotten about. Among them is this very delicately hand embroidered handkerchief that I bought at an antique store ages ago. I thought I'd show you some photos up close. It'll give you a whole new perspective on drawn thread embroidery and whitework!

This vintage embroidered handkerchief is about 11" square. The fabric is very sheer and delicate - I'd call it "gauzy."

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


It's a very pretty handkerchief, but it is certainly not an "original" design or one-of-a-kind piece. I recently saw one very similar to it (if not identical - I didn't have this one with me to compare) in another collection of vintage textiles. It caught my eye because of the edges.

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


The edges feature a crenellated pattern, with the threads drawn to form a net, and the edges worked in tiny buttonhole stitches. This form of edging is not uncommon - I have a few pieces of heavier vintage linens (dresser scarves) with the same edge pattern - the work is not as delicate as this, but still very fine.

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


The little whitework flower design sprinkling the hanky is so tiny and delicately done. There's an itty-bitty eyelet in the middle of each flower. While the leaves may look almost like a bullion knot, they aren't - they're worked in an overcast stitch - that is, they're satin stitched over another single thread. You can see the single thread sticking out at the end of some of the leaves there.

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


My favorite part of the design is these three corner squares, surrounded by the little flowers. Each drawn thread grid there is just barely over an inch square - split into nine, with the threads drawn out and hemstitch worked all around. It's all so fascinatingly small.

So, despite the irritation of my desperate search for my black threads yesterday (more on that later - there is an ironic ending to that episode!), I was really thrilled to be reminded of a few pieces of embroidery that I almost forgot!

In addition to a few vintage pieces of needlework, I unearthed a large collection of kits, charts, designs and stuff that I will never ever in a million years use. They'll make excellent give-away treats. They're mostly for counted work - they came in a bundle package that I bought when a needlework store closed. They're all "new" (unopened, unused), but not all necessarily "recent." There are some series pieces in there - Old Santas and the like - as well as some Primitive designs (in surface embroidery), some historical flavored pieces (Quaker and old English), and so forth. So I'll be giving those away in bundles - keep an eye out!

And, finally, I did set up the blackwork project, so I'll show that to you this week, too. It's not what you expect, so please don't expect much! And, yes, I've managed to put some stitches onto a couple projects.

With all that, here's hopin' I can keep things interesting this week!

Enjoy the day!

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Saturday, August 08, 2009

Vintage Linens for Embroidery

The other day, I showed you that magnificent box of M. Heminway & Sons silk - a goodly collection of vintage silks from the turn of the 20th century. The more I think about this treasure, the more excited I am about it! Here, I'd like to show you some of the linens that were in the box...

These linens are certainly "vintage" - they're downright antiques. Some are embroidered in part, some are not. Some are in fairly good shape and might be salvageable, but some probably can't be salvaged. Below, you'll see some photos of only some of the linens, actually - there are more than pictured here, but this is a good selection of the types of linens in the box.

Many of the pieces are of the same weight fabric - a light, fine linen with a smooth "hand" (or surface feel), but others are coarser linen and one even looks like a cotton sateen, the type of fabric used for Mountmellic embroidery. And there are different types of designs on some of the linens - especially on the coarser ones. These, I don't think, were necessarily used for "Society silk" styled embroidery, but for other projects - maybe just practice?

Let's take a look - and if you have any insights, do feel free to share them!

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This is rather a fine weight linen, with a leafy design printed on it. Embroidery was begun on one corner.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


The embroidery for the filled areas is worked in a shading technique - long and short stitch - and the stems are worked in stem stitch. Isn't the sheen of the silk just beautiful?!?

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This is a piece of rather coarse linen. You can see that it is pretty well stained and marked with age. I suspect that the embroiderer actually put the pattern on herself, via a prick-and-pounce method of transfer. The pounce must have been either damp or actually an ink of sorts. In old books, especially books on ecclesiastical embroidery, there are some "recipes" for ink that is applied in a way similar to the prick-and-pounce powder method method, and I think that's what this is. Why do I assume she didn't buy the piece with the design already on it? Read on, and I'll get to that point further down...

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This is another piece of linen that's relatively coarse, but not as coarse as the linen in the previous photo. The design on this one looks preprinted, and the embroidery was begun in a heavier silk (called "rope" - there's a good bundle of this silk in the box).

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


The embroiderer was stitching the edges of the leaves in buttonhole stitch.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This is another piece of finer linen - very thin stuff. I suspect that the piece came with the drawn thread areas already done, and with the embroidery design printed on it. This was obviously a set, because there are a couple more pieces in the box, just like this, with different embroidery designs around the drawn thread area.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


You can see a close-up on the drawn thread area here. Though it is visually interesting over all, the drawn thread design is not worked very neatly. The tips of the ovals are jammed with threads. Still, the inside parts of the ovals are really incredible - teeny tiny detail work here.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


You can see the graduated shades in the stitching here, and the luster of the silk.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This piece is from the same set, but instead of flowers, the design around the outside features pomegranates.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This is the same design as the first coarse linen up above, and the fabric looks to me more like a cotton sateen - it's shiny, and the weave looks like a sateen. Hence, my reasoning for thinking she transferred these two designs herself, because they are on completely different types of fabric, and though the designs are the same, they have a few "blotches" in different places. It's a neat design - it has the look of some of the flowers you'll find in William Morris's textile designs.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


Here's another piece of fine linen, with a design typical of "Society silk" or Silk Art Embroidery. There's a larger doily, with several small ones - sort of like coasters. The design is preprinted in blue.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


The small circles have different designs around them - they aren't all exactly the same. I think there were two of one pattern and two of another, but they all "work" together as a matching set.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


Here's another set of small doilies. The edges of these could be worked in a buttonhole or a satin stitch, then the rest of the fabric could be cut away.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


The strange thing about this set is that it looks as if someone went back over the design with pencil, either to darken it up, or to put in guides for stitching. Either that, or perhaps a ghost image was printed on the fabric at the same time. I'm wondering about spot removal on some of these - I wouldn't want to remove the design, but I'd like to get rid of some of the spots...

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This is another pre-printed linen, on a finer weight of linen, but printed in yet a different style when compared to the other linens above.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


What I really like about it is the information on the corners - directives for types of stitching and colors, I think.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


There's also what looks like a design or pattern number, and a needle still stuck in the fabric.

Vintage Linens for Hand Embroidery


This piece is perhaps my favorite in the whole box - not just because I think the pattern is very pretty, but also because it is in the best shape. I think it IS salvageable, and it would be worth embroidering in the same style, using the silks from the box. I've put that on my List!

Some of the pieces had some really pretty embroidery on them, though none of it was finished. Some bits of embroidery look like practice pieces, while others were projects underway but never completed. I'll show you some of those a bit later, too!

So what do you think? Worth trying to clean some of these up to stitch? Do you think they'd hold up? I certainly think the patterns are worth tracing on many of them, that's for sure! Some of the designs are very pretty and delicate - others are bold and beautiful. I may have to devote some time to that!

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Wednesday, August 05, 2009

Vintage Embroidery Supplies - A Treasure!

A few weeks ago, a reader contacted me to ask if I would be interested in a box of "old" stamped linens. They had been given to her, but she knew she wouldn't use them, so she kindly volunteered to send them to me, or to Good Will. Some linens, she said, still had the original embroidery threads with them. Of course, I jumped at the opportunity, and Freda very kindly sent me the box.

I've had similar things happen before: neighbors cleaning out their garage or their storage area and coming across old craft stuff and not wanting to go through it; people contacting me from afar, after the death of a family member, and asking if I wanted the box of their mom's embroidery supplies, as they weren't interested in them; a lady dumping (yes, dumping) a worn out box full of children's crafting supplies on my front porch.... and the list could go on. In most of these situations (the exception being the dumbed box on the front porch!), it has always been a real pleasure to go through the boxes.

Each box tells a story of sorts - what the person's tastes were; how much they loved their hobby; what things in life were important to them; whether they were very organized and meticulous people, or whether they were more like... uh... me. Going through old needlework supplies, you can learn a lot about people!

You can also learn a lot about the history of needlework, which was the case with Freda's box.

Vintage Embroidery: Silk Art Embroidery Supplies


The contents of this box undoubtedly date to the late 1800's - early 1900's, during that era of "Silk Art Embroidery" or "Society Silk." Well, certainly some of the threads date from the mid-1800's up to 1917 (I'd guess closer to 1917).

Inside the box, I found a heap of unworked, stamped linens, featuring tea cloths, doilies, and the like. The majority are printed with "natural" looking floral designs, typical of the "Silk Art Embroidery" style (or "Society Silk"). Very few of them are partially worked, and none are completely worked. I'll show you the linens a bit later.

Vintage Embroidery: Silk Art Embroidery Supplies


Tucked inside some of the linens were skeins of silk floss - in different degrees of disarray. Some will need attention to get them back in order; others are neatly braided.

Vintage Embroidery: Silk Art Embroidery Supplies


Regardless of their current situation, all the threads are gorgeous! The sheen is incredible - the silk is just beautiful! I am looking forward to the challenge of separating and straightening out the different colors and weights of silk!

When I removed the linens from the box, I discovered more silk! Someone had already tried to organize this bunch, using small plastic bags.

Vintage Embroidery: Silk Art Embroidery Supplies


The majority of the silk was manufactured by M. Heminway & Sons:

Vintage Embroidery: Silk Art Embroidery Supplies


Merrit Heminway was the first manufacturer to spool silk in the US. From the mid-1800's through 1917, his company (formerly Bishop & Heminway) was called M. Heminway & Sons Silk Company. In 1917, the company was sold to Hammond Knowlton & Co, and the name was changed to H.K.H. Company. So somewhere between the establishment of of M. Heminway & Sons Silk Company and the selling of it to H.K.H., these threads were made. An expert who's studied the subject in-depth could probably look at the label and be a bit more precise as to the age of the thread, but there's no doubt that the era is certainly the "Silk Art" or "Society Silk" era of embroidery.

The popularity of this style of embroidery, which is essentially needlepainting flowers and other natural florals on linen and other ground fabrics using fine silks, lasted from the around the 1880's through about 1915 - 1920. According to Donna Cardwell in her book Silk Art Embroidery: A Woman's History of Ornament and Empowerment, the term "society silk" comes from the organization (The Society of Decorative Art) that taught the skills of this type of needlework all over the country and in Canada. Silk Art Embroidery has an interesting history and is worth reading about. Don't be too put off by the title of the book above - I was afraid it was going to be entirely a "social history" book, but it isn't. It contains interesting history and lots of technique information.

While it is evident from this box of goodies that the stitcher was definitely stitching household linens, I can't help wondering if they were for her or if they were being made to sell as a source of income? Was she just dabbling in the new embroidery rage? Or was she seriously trying to learn the technique in order to supplement income? These things, I will probably never know - but it's fun to wonder!

Incidentally, this type of thread was not used solely for "Silk Art Embroidery." This was the silk embroidery floss available in the US at that time, and you can see it on a multitude of ecclesiastical work from that time period, as well. I've always wanted to see the threads they used in ecclesiastical work from the early 1900's, up close. When looking at different pieces, it's evident that the pieces were stitched with lightly twisted filament silk. And finally, here's a whole box of it!

I'll be sorting through this as I have time, and I'll also be showing you the linens, in case you're curious!

Thanks, Freda, for thinking of me!

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Friday, May 15, 2009

Mom's Needlework Adventures

 
My Mom was cleaning out some stuff the other day and came across a few little needlework-related items that she handed over to me, which led me to thinking about different needlework projects Mom has done over the years.

Many folks are lucky enough to learn their needlework skills from their moms, grandmothers, aunts, etc. In my case, I'd say I learned the proclivity towards any kind of crafty-artsy stuff from Mom, but not necessarily specific needlework skills. My Mom, who turns 75 this weekend, was rather the artistic type when she was younger. She took up painting at some point in her eary married years, and even enjoyed showing her work at an art gallery at one point and selling it. She also taught art in a private school in the San Francisco Bay Area for a bit. She was dabbler in lots of things - sewing, painting, needlework, crochet, etc., and most of her kids have ended up being dabblers in one (or many) creative way or another. We dabble. We flit about. What can I say?

Pinkie and Blue Boy in needlepoint


These are the pieces that instigated this post. They're needlepoint versions of Pinkie and Blue Boy, famous paintings by Thomas Lawrence and Thomas Gainsborough, respectively. They're not finished. In fact, I think Mom picked out the background stitching and never finished them.

Pinkie and Blue Boy in needlepoint


I like them - they may be salvagable, though I don't know what I would salvage them into, except framed pieces.

Pinkie and Blue Boy in needlepoint


They're worked in two sizes of stitches on Penelope canvas - the detailed faces are smaller stitches, and most of the rest of the figures are worked in larger stitches.

Pinkie and Blue Boy in needlepoint


I always thought Blue Boy looked a bit jaunty.

Pinkie and Blue Boy in needlepoint


I like his little shifty eyes. He's definitely checking out Pinkie...

Pinkie and Blue Boy Statues


My Mom has always had a penchant for Things Pinkie-and-Blue-Boy. These statues were with us in every house we lived in - and we lived in Many Houses, all over the country!

Studying the Pinkie and Blue Boy canvases led me to another work of my Mom's from her early married days:

The Lord's Prayer Stamped Cross Stitch, 1959


I never knew a time when this wasn't on a wall of our homes growing up. It was made from a stamped cross stitch kit Mom bought two years after she was married (so that would have been in 1959, making the piece exactly 50 years old).

The Lord's Prayer Stamped Cross Stitch, 1959


Let's see if I can get it right: the stamped fabric cost her 59 cents, and the thread for it cost 30 cents. An 89-cent project - 50 years old - not bad!

The Lord's Prayer Stamped Cross Stitch, 1959


She paid $20 to have it framed four years later.

The year Mom got married, she made this baby quilt:

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


This was another kit - stamped embroidery, featuring Peter Rabbit and Company.

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


The piece features several stitches - mostly cross stitch, but also a good smattering of satin stitch, stem stitch and daisy stitch.

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


It's funny to look at this now, when these types of vintage embroidery patterns have become pretty popular once again.

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


There are a couple stains on the Peter Rabbit section. One of these days, I'll try to remove them!

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


Nice little watering can... The quilt top was pre-printed with the pattern when Mom bought the kit. She did the embroidery, then put the blanket together.... almost 52 years ago! She was expecting my oldest sister at that point.

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


I like the little bird...

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


...but the pink eyes are a bit freaky!

Vintage Embroidered Baby Quilt: Peter Rabbit and Company


The cottontails are little cotton pom-poms that have held up really well for this many years and several babies' usage!

Later on in life, Mom took up counted cross stitch, and vestiges of her efforts can still be seen around her house.

Three Counted Cross Stitch Birds


Mom has always liked birds.

St. Francis Prayer in Counted Cross Stitch


This was one of my grandmother's favorite prayers (my Mom's mom), and subsequently one of Mom's. Mom said she almost kicked herself when she finished the piece and realized she had not cut her fabric large enough for the type of framing she wanted. Still, this has been a nice piece in her house for the past 25 years or so.

Like Pinkie and Blue Boy, the St. Francis Prayer is a recurring theme in her house:

St. Francis Prayer Plaque


My grandmother gave my Mom and Dad this plaque (which is only about 4" x 6") as a gift many, many years ago - another thing I remember always being on a wall in our homes across the country.

Mom's present needlework pursuits involve crochet only, and she makes some pretty nice doilies, tablecloths, and filet crocheted lace for church use.

Crocheted Doilie


Mom didn't make this, but it was in among her needlework things - a souvenir from a one of her trips to Hong Kong many years ago:

Oriental Baby Carrier


She says it's a baby carrier. Her escapades on this trip to Hong Kong were pretty funny. It was her first time abroad, and she had no idea how money exchanging actually worked. When she exchanged money for the first time, she couldn't believe how much they gave her back! So she had fun shopping with it!

Oriental Baby Carrier


The embroidery is machine embroidery; I think it's kind of neat! This has seen several appearances on kids in school plays, costumes, and so forth. I don't think she ever actually used it as a baby carrier!

Mom's needlework adventures also included afghan-making, quilting, sewing children's clothes, making things for the house, and so forth. She's always been a project woman! And it's always heaps of fun, going through her old pattern books and needlework items!

Happy 75th, Mom!

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