Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Hand Embroidered Handkerchief of the Vintage Variety

Foraging in the studio yesterday for my black threads had its advantages: I came across some treasures that I had (admittedly) forgotten about. Among them is this very delicately hand embroidered handkerchief that I bought at an antique store ages ago. I thought I'd show you some photos up close. It'll give you a whole new perspective on drawn thread embroidery and whitework!

This vintage embroidered handkerchief is about 11" square. The fabric is very sheer and delicate - I'd call it "gauzy."

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


It's a very pretty handkerchief, but it is certainly not an "original" design or one-of-a-kind piece. I recently saw one very similar to it (if not identical - I didn't have this one with me to compare) in another collection of vintage textiles. It caught my eye because of the edges.

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


The edges feature a crenellated pattern, with the threads drawn to form a net, and the edges worked in tiny buttonhole stitches. This form of edging is not uncommon - I have a few pieces of heavier vintage linens (dresser scarves) with the same edge pattern - the work is not as delicate as this, but still very fine.

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


The little whitework flower design sprinkling the hanky is so tiny and delicately done. There's an itty-bitty eyelet in the middle of each flower. While the leaves may look almost like a bullion knot, they aren't - they're worked in an overcast stitch - that is, they're satin stitched over another single thread. You can see the single thread sticking out at the end of some of the leaves there.

Hand Embroidered Vintage Handkerchief


My favorite part of the design is these three corner squares, surrounded by the little flowers. Each drawn thread grid there is just barely over an inch square - split into nine, with the threads drawn out and hemstitch worked all around. It's all so fascinatingly small.

So, despite the irritation of my desperate search for my black threads yesterday (more on that later - there is an ironic ending to that episode!), I was really thrilled to be reminded of a few pieces of embroidery that I almost forgot!

In addition to a few vintage pieces of needlework, I unearthed a large collection of kits, charts, designs and stuff that I will never ever in a million years use. They'll make excellent give-away treats. They're mostly for counted work - they came in a bundle package that I bought when a needlework store closed. They're all "new" (unopened, unused), but not all necessarily "recent." There are some series pieces in there - Old Santas and the like - as well as some Primitive designs (in surface embroidery), some historical flavored pieces (Quaker and old English), and so forth. So I'll be giving those away in bundles - keep an eye out!

And, finally, I did set up the blackwork project, so I'll show that to you this week, too. It's not what you expect, so please don't expect much! And, yes, I've managed to put some stitches onto a couple projects.

With all that, here's hopin' I can keep things interesting this week!

Enjoy the day!

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Monday, October 26, 2009

Schwalm Embroidery Photos & a Give-Away!

Sometimes, photos of needlework can be the best source of inspiration for me. When I see a beautiful piece of needlework in a photo, it makes me..... well. It makes me want to DO something - to make something beautiful! But the fact o' the matter is, there just aren't enough hours in the day, days in the week, weeks in the year to do all the needlework things I'd like to do! Do you ever feel that way? So, often, I content myself with looking at pictures. And along those lines, here are some photos of magnificent examples of Schwalm whitework embroidery.

These first two pieces belong to a friend, Joey, who helped Luzine Happel with the translation of two of her Schwalm embroidery books, Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework and Fancy Hems.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


This first piece is a teacloth embroidered by Luzine. Isn't it gorgeous? You can click on the photo for a closer view of it. The stitching is so stunning! Check out the variety of filling stitches!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Pillow


This second piece is a decorative pillow, with the Schwalm work covering a red pillow - which makes the whitework stand out beautifully. I had not considered finishing a whitework pillow this way, with a contrasting fabric behind the whitework, but it makes all the sense in the world if you really want to show off the whitework. Again, you can click on the photo for a larger version.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery


The books above are published by the Museum der Schwalm in Germany. The books are a kind of photographic journal of the pieces that have been featured in the museum's displays. Talk about inspiration!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery


Here's one piece featured in one of the books. Pretty, isn't it? I don't know if it's exactly "traditional" Schwalm embroidery as far as design goes - the design seems a bit more contemporary. I like it a lot!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery


A lampshade! I think I would love to have this in my house... but I can't help wondering if it would stay this pristine? I'd feel obliged to put it under glass to keep the Kansas dust off it!

Yep, I do love to browse through these types of books!! They goad me into doing something with my needle and thread.

A Give-Away!

Now, speaking of Schwalm work (again), I'd like to give away another book. Joey sent me a copy of Fancy Hems, but since I already have one, I thought it would be a good opportunity to put this excellent book into some other keen stitcher's hands.

You can read my thorough review of Fancy Hems here on Needle 'n Thread, to see what the book is about. Note that it's not just for stitchers interested in Schwalm whitework. Anyone interested in drawn thread or pulled thread embroidery will find this book useful and instructive.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery


If you'd like to win this copy of Fancy Hems, here's how the give-away works:

Leave a comment below (on this article, on the website - not via e-mail or on other posts), answering the following question:

If you could launch into a Schwalm project right now, assuming you have the materials and instructions at hand, what would you make?

Make sure you leave a name, even if you use the "anonymous" feature when posting your comment. I'll draw for a winner on Wednesday, October 28th, by 5:30 am.

Best of luck!


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Monday, October 12, 2009

Schwalm Embroidery Book Winner!

Here's a quick post to announce the winner of Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework. Thanks for the excellent response to the give-away!

The winner is Karen, who wrote:

I'd love to have the book! I learned about whitework from you, so it seems only fitting :) Wrinkled or not, your stitching looks great and I hope I can do that some day. The first time I read a post on your site about whitework, I made myself NOT buy the book :) but I did go and buy 10 skeins of white Floche a Broder from Hedgehog Handwoks! You know, just in case. :) Thanks again for sharing!

Congratulations, Karen! And just think - you've already got threads! Drop me a line with your mailing address, and I'll send the book along as soon as possible!

Thanks again, all, for participating - and stay tuned for similar book give-aways in the future!

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Thursday, October 08, 2009

Schwalm Embroidery: Update and a Give-Away!

 
Just to convince you that I do still pick up a needle and thread now and then and do some stitching, I thought I'd give you an update on the Schwalm embroidery project I'm working on. The project comes from Basic Principles of Schwalm Embroidery by Luzine Happel, and although it seems as if I began the project a hundred years ago, I haven't gotten very far on it! So, to make up for the lack of noteworthy progress in stitching, I think I'll throw in a give-away!

First, the Schwalm whitework project! I've managed to get through the first two steps on one side of the square in the middle of the teacloth.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery project underway


Woe is me! I know that looks just awful - a wrinkled mess! I don't want to iron it until I've finished the stitching and washed it because the transfer marks might set.

So far, I've outlined in coral stitch and I've done all the buttonhole scallops and wheels.

Not very impressive. *sigh*

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery project underway


I worked this mostly in hand (without a hoop). I think this lends to the general wrinkled appearance of the linen!

When working the buttonhole scallops, at first I progressed without a hoop, and it went ok, but I found it wasn't so easy to manipulate that much fabric while trying to work the scallops. I ended up wadding the linen up in one hand while stitching with the other.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery project underway


Eventually, though, I decided to hoop the project up for the rest of the scallops and wheels. Stitching the scallops with a hoop seemed much easier!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery project underway


I enjoyed stitching this part of the project. If I had all four sides of the square done, it would've been nice to keep going and going on buttonhole scallops and circles. It's a fun stitch! But my design has faded too much on the other three sides of the square, so I can't really do anything on those parts until I re-transfer the design.

So that's my progress right now on this project.

Now, for a give-away!

Thanks to Joey, who sent me an extra copy of Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework, I am offering this book to an interested reader who wants to try (or improve upon) techniques of Schwalm embroidery. Schwalm is a beautiful form of whitework, and the stitches learned in the technique can be widely applied to other embroidery styles.

If you're interested in owning your own copy of this superb book, leave a comment below (on this post, on the website) letting me know you're interested in the book. Please make sure you sign your name to the comment, even if you use the "Anonymous" feature.

The give-away deadline is Monday, October 12, 2009, at 5:30 am CST.

If all goes as planned tomorrow, I'm going to spend Friday evening making some serious progress on this piece! I want to get to the point of drawing out the threads for the center fillings - wish me luck!

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Friday, October 02, 2009

Schwalm Embroidery and Fancy Hems

 
Schwalm whitework embroidery is often used to adorn tablecloths, table runners, and household linens of various kinds. Besides the beautiful and lace-like embroidery featured on Schwalm pieces, Schwalm work often depends upon the finishing of the embroidered piece with a fancy hem. A couple months ago, I introduced you to Luzine Happel's thorough book on Schwalm embroidery - Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework - which was newly translated into English. Today, I want to show you her latest book translated into English, Fancy Hems.

Fancy Hems is a book that any needleworker interested in drawn thread embroidery or whitework would find interesting, informative, and useful. It is not merely for folks interested in Schwalm embroidery in particular. The techniques explained in the book are suited to any kind of drawn thread work, really.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


Like Luzine's Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework, Fancy Hems is a self-published book.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


Within its pages, you will find step-by-step instructions for creating the fancy openwork and drawn thread hems that often accompany Schwalm embroidery.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


The instructions are cleary photographed, so that you can follow each step of embroidery. And the English text is clear and precise.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


The book begins with simpler fancy hems and works its way slowly to more complex hems.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


Featured throughout the book are pictures of magnificent embroidery that has been "finished" with the addition of a beautiful hem. Each type of hem is thoroughly explained and demonstrated in the book.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


Watching the intricate designs of the hems unfold before your eyes, though the photos, is amazing - Luzine makes it look so simple! And because her instructions are good, creating a unqiue and intricate embellished hem area does become relatively simple.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


All the basics are discussed, by the way, before venturing into the more complex embellishment. So, if working something like the above drawn thread bars featured in the text, you not only learn how to embellish the bars, but you learn the basics of how to create the bars in the first place - a nice tidbit of instruction for those interested in drawn thread work in general.

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


The types of hems featured in the book range from narrower bars to composite hems, made up of a variety of different "bars" stacked together, as in this magificent piece below:

Fancy Hems by Luzine Happel


Wouldn't it be something to finish the edge of a tea cloth like this? It's amazing, isn't it?

In the most recent issue of Piecework Magazine (Sept. / Oct. 2009), a one-page article focus on an embroidery guild group in Canada who began working through the Fancy Hems book, each creating their own fancily-hemmed cloth. I think that would be a fun and challenging group project - to take a book like this and have each person compile their own "stack" of hemming motifs. I was glad to see that article in Piecework.

But even more than that, I was so happy to see Luzine's newly-translated book, which will certainly become The Definitive Guide to drawn-thread fancy hems.

If you're interested in obtaining a copy of this book, feel free to contact Luzine via e-mail. She takes Paypal, which makes ordering from Germany very easy.

I have to thank Luzine for sending me the book, which was quickly followed by a real treasure chest of Schwalm related instructional and inspirational books - and some linen! Oh, linen! How I love linen! Thank you, Luzine!

Luzine has actually self-published a whole slew of books in German on Schwalm embroidery, and I do eventually want to show you all of them. They are amazing - and So Thorough! A few are in English, but most are in German. Still, the step-by-step photos make the books accessible even for those of us who don't speak or read German. In the meantime, though, if you are looking for books on filling stitches for Schwalm work or drawn thread embroidery, you can ask Luzine what she has available. One of her books instructs on 175 (yes, 175! - that's a LOT!) filling patterns. It's amazing!

She also has a really nice book of Schwalm patterns for a variety of projects. I'm really looking forward to making use of it. The more I look at Schwalm work, the more I fall in love with it! And she's got some really pretty patterns in this book. I'll review that one a bit later, in detail, so you can see what it looks like. And she included some little books from the Schwalm Museum in Germany - they're full of clear black and white photos of various Schwalm pieces. Oh, if I could just reproduce them for you here! I think you'd be in awe of the work!

The thing that really attracts me about Schwalm whitework is that, though it is predominantly whitework, the techniques involved spill over into so many other areas of surface embroidery, while at the same time integrating extensive drawn thread and pulled thread techniques. I think that's why I had so much fun with my Schwalm chicken and pomegranate on my whitework sampler.

And what about my Schwalm project that's currently underway (taken from Luzine's Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework)? Well, I did indeed make the switch from another project so that I can focus on the Schwalm project during my 15-minute sessions, and I have enjoyed working on it in spurts. I actually accomplished a good bit of stitching on Wednesday afternoon of this week, which was nice for a change! I've finished the buttonhole stitching on one motif, and I'm ready to move on to the chain stitching, before starting the filling. I'm having fun with it - I'll update you with progress photos soon!

In the meantime, if you're interested in any of Luzine's books, drop her an e-mail.

Have a terrific Friday!

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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Schwalm Update & In-Hand Embroidery

 
Last week, I showed you my set-up for the Schwalm embroidery project I'm working on, from Luzine's book, Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework Embroidery. Well, after a slight kerfuffle, all is underway again, and I've even begun stitching.

I've just managed to stitch in some of the coral stitch outlines around the motifs on only one of the four sides of the tea cloth design. I've discovered a couple points I'll share with you here. Even if you aren't interested particularly in Schwalm whitework, they may serve you in some other embroidery-related endeavor!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery


Frist of all, when working coral stitch, it's helpful to work up a bit of a "rhythm" to the stitch. When I first started stitching the coral stitch outlines, I didn't realize how important it is to really concentrate on getting the rhythm of the stitch. I'd stitch a wee bit, then get interrupted, add a few more stitches a bit later, get interrupted, etc. These stitches are uneven and inconsistently spaced. Over all, I don't think this will show up in the finished piece, so I'm not that worried about it. But once I had a stretch of time to stitch, I found that the stitch became quite quick to work and the spacing and tension of the knots evened out considerably.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery


I'm an avid hoop or embroidery frame user. You probably have realized that if you've been reading me for very long! But - not all stitching is for the hoop! In my mind, some stitching simply requires a hoop or frame. For example, I would not, personally, attempt a nice satin stitch, any kind of drawn thread work, or needlepainting without one. But then, there are some stitches that work out better in hand. "In hand" implies embroidery that is stitched with the fabric held in the hand, without the aid of a hoop or frame or any other device to supply tension. And coral stitch - especially in the quantity on this Schwalm piece - works best in hand.

Not only does the stitch work up a whole lot faster, but the tension is overall better on each knot, when worked in hand rather than in a hoop. That's what I found, anyway!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery


Another thing I have discovered while stitching this piece in hand: the watercolor pencils I tested for transferring an embroidery design tend to rub off and fade, due to the touching and holding of the fabric. The other three sides of the Schwalm design have more or less faded off, and I will have to retrace them. On the side I'm working on, I'm having to retrace each element of the design as I get to it. C'est la vie!

I've got a couple ideas to test about design transfer - including Papermate Flair Ultra Fine markers - specifically in green. A kind reader wrote and told me that's what she uses, and the green works well (the other colors not as well). I'm eager to try this - I wonder how it will work with white threads on white fabric. (Thanks for that tip, Jean!)

In the meantime, I suppose I'll stick with re-tracing as I go. Though I might just break out the regular water-soluble fabric marker.... we'll see. Those tend to fade, too, a bit. But maybe they would hold up better than the pencils are right now!

Anyway, whichever direction I go with the design transfer, I'll be sure to keep you posted.

In the meantime, I'll keep plugging away with the Schwalm project. I like working on it so far! And I'm looking forward to adding different stitches - I think buttonhole scallops are next.

Oh, and a final thing I've learned: I take rotten photos of white-on-white embroidery. I need to research a bit to find out how to remedy that! Any tips you all may have would be wildly welcomed!

That's my project update. What are you up to? Whatever it is, I hope you're enjoying wielding your needle, too!

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Thursday, August 13, 2009

Setting Up Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Project

 
Before the school year gets underway in a mere week and a half (where DOES the summer go?!), I wanted to get several embroidery projects set up. I'm teaching five courses this semester, so I know my needlework time will be limited once school starts, especially during the first month while getting the routine underway. I'm planning to go back to the 15 Minutes Plan, but I can only do that if I have projects ready to stitch.

With that in mind, then, I set about setting up a project! This is the Schwalm Whitework teacloth that is featured in Luzine's book, Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework.

I began by measuring out the linen to the prescribed 80 x 80 cm. Instead of working in centimeters, I converted everything to inches - which was probably silly. Anyway, I cut the linen to 31.5" square, pulling out threads to make sure the linen was cut on the weave. Then, I zig-zagged the edges on the sewing machine, so that I wouldn't have stray threads falling off the edge of the linen.

The linen I'm using is from Germany (thank you, Joey!) and is the preferred linen for Schwalm whitework. It's called Weddigen Linen, and it's available through Das Handarbeitshaus. (If you don't read German, you can drop that in Google's translator, and get a very good translation.) It comes in two thread counts: approx. 35 threads per inch, and approximately 50 threads per inch. I'm using the 35.

Once all the linen preparation was done, I divided the linen in half with basting lines, vertically and horizontally, then marked off the square for the pattern with basting stitches, too. The book calls for 20 cm in each direction, to form approximately a 40cm square for the design. I converted that to inches, and blocked off a 15.5" square, and then also basted in the diagonals on the square. How to do all of this - and why - is explained in the book.

Anyway, I found that the pattern was a bit small for a 15.5" square, so I took the square in an inch all around, and was a bit more satisfied with the layout. Then....

I started tracing. The book suggests an iron-on pencil or pen for transferring the pattern, and I have to admit, that would be about ten million times easier. But I have an aversion to iron-on transfer pencils and pens, because I know they don't come out all the way, despite the method of removal. I decided instead to use a watercolor pencil, and I traced the design.

To trace the design, I lined it up with all the correct lines on the fabric, then I pinned it on and placed it over a light box. It was "easy enough" in concept, but it took a long time! But, once it was finished - it was finished!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


Once the design was transferred, my next step was to assemble all my threads. I took out my box of whitework threads, to find this general mess:

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


I've been telling myself for a while that I need to inventory my threads. These threads get used all the time, and they're not easy to come by. You generally can't find whitework threads (coton a broder) at your local needlework / sewing / craft or hobby store - or at least, I can't! So whenever I need a particular thread, I have to order it online. Still, it looked as if I might have enough!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


I sorted them all out, and grouped them according to size. I had sizes 12 through 40, in the following quantities:

#12 - 3 skeins
#16 - 14 skeins + 1 partial
#20 - 4 skeins
#25 - 11 skeins + 2 partial
#30 - 7 skeins + 3 partial
#40 - 3 skeins + 1 partial

I put them all in individual bags, according to size. I'll probably order a few skeins of #20 this week, since I'm relatively low on it, and it's a popular size for many of the stitches in this project.

In the book, it's very nice to have a thread chart that indicates the particular stitches for which each weight of thread is used. Size #50 coton a broder is mentioned (you can use #50 or #40), but I can't find #50 available at any shops here in the States, so I'll stick with #40, which is also becoming increasingly hard to find.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


I also had a pile of loose threads that didn't have tags on them, so I have no idea what size they are. Let this be a lesson! Always make sure you have a way to identify your thread sizes. These won't go to waste, of course. I will use them randomly here and there on little projects, like my fish.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


Then, I dug through my needle box, and found I had the right sized needles. The book calls for chenille needles and tapestry needles in specific sizes. I had plenty of tapestry, but no chenille, so I'm substituting crewel needles in corresponding sizes.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


With everything gathered for the project, I packed the threads and needles away in a mesh zipper bag.

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


Everything's together and ready to go - ain't that grand??!

But the best thing was that I still had some time (it was only 9:30 pm - I had to stop at 9:45, for company coming) so I decided to actually start on the stitching!

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


Before working with coton a broder, it's a good idea to prepare your thread. I've got a little tutorial here on Needle 'n Thread about preparing coton a broder for stitching - how to handle these types of "hanks" of embroidery cotton. Incidentally, this is the same method that Luzine suggests in her book. So I prepared a skein of #16 for stitching by braiding it with the paper tags left on, so that I can identify the size.

Then....

I threaded my needle...

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery Tea Cloth


It was time to start stitching!

... and that's when the timer went off. Time was up! But it was a good evening's work, and I'm ready to go at my next stitching opportunity!

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Other News:

If you haven't signed up yet for my Historic Needlework give-away, there's still time! Visit the original post and read the information on how to sign up!

Today, I'm moving. Not moving, moving. Just sort of moving. My habitat (cave, hovel, whatever you want to call it) is getting a little facelift, so all my computer stuff is being shifted to the studio. The Internet People (Wamego Telecommunications) are coming today to put in a new internet line out the studio, so I'll still be able to work online while the remodeling is being done. The point of all this unwanted personal information is simply to let you know that, if you don't hear from me tomorrow (?!), it's because something went wrong!

Now, I'm off to make room for Technology, so that I don't have to rest my PC on beds of embroidery thread....

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Friday, July 17, 2009

Schwalm Embroidery - The Definitive Guide!

 
If you've gotten to know me a bit through Needle 'n Thread, you've probably figured out that I like books - and I love needlework books. Occasionally, I read a needlework book from cover to cover, but it's rather a rare thing for me to do, especially if it is a book on a specific needlework technique. In such cases, I "scan" - I look for the information I need. For the first time in a long time, I read a needlework book from cover to cover yesterday. It wasn't hard to do, as the book is filled with pictures, and the text is made up of clear, succinct instruction.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel is a self-published book that I think will become the definitive guide to learning Schwalm embroidery. The English version, recently edited by Joey Colbert (who formerly owned a great little embroidery shop called Twining Thread) and with an introduction by her, is one of the best instructional books that I've seen focusing on teaching a specific needlework technique.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


Do not be put off by the fact that this is a self-printed book bound with a plastic comb. I say that because I've purchased many such printed books, and some of them have been complete fizzers, even though written and sold by rather well-known names in the needlework world. This book is not a fizzer.

The book is printed in color on nice paper, bound with a plastic comb, and has a clear plastic cover. The binding, actually, is an advantage - the book lays flat on the table, which is a boon for stitchers who are following the instructions within.

The book is written around one (beautiful!) Schwalm whitework project which incorporates all the major aspects of Schwalm embroidery, including many filling techniques, from simple to intricate. The premise is that, if you work through the project - a small decorative square linen with a Schwalm design around the four sides - you will become familiar with, and practice, all the techniques involved in Schwalm whitework, including excellent finishing techniques. The author takes you through every step of the way and leaves no question unanswered.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


After beginning with a discussion of materials (fabrics, threads, tools), Luzine shows you, through pictures and text, how to set up your fabric and transfer your project so that you begin on the right foot.

This section alone would be of interest to any stitcher, regardless of technique preferences, because the principles in the set-up of this project apply to setting up practically any embroidery project. The proper marking of the fabric so that the design is centered and lined up perfectly, the transfer of the pattern, including transferring an extra corner piece - all this information is useful to the hand embroiderer.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


You can see here a glimpse of the design. On the right page, in the left corner of the design, you can see how the extra motif for the corner is being aligned with the rest of the design.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


Luzine addresses the question of how to treat your threads - how to arrange them for easy access and in a way that keeps them neat and organized as you work through the project.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


The stitches are explained with step-by-step photos, but more interestingly, the whole progress of the projects is explained with step-by-step photos, too. Each time you get through a stage of the project, a complete picture of the area is given, so you can see what it's supposed to look like at the end of that stage.

Little red arrows in the photos point to the areas that require special attention - a little instructional hint on how to come to a perfect point, for example, or how to end a thread, or where to come up next, etc. (Like I said, no question is left unanswered!)

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


Progressing to the next stage, you're taken step-by-step through it, and then given a clear picture of what your work should look like at the end of the stage.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


Since different results are often desired from the same stitch (for example, depending on the shape of the leaf, satin stitches will be worked differently), Luzine includes photos of all the results you will want to achieve, discussing them and explaining how to achieve them.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


One of the most beautiful aspects of Schwalm whitework is the variety of fillings used inside the various motifs. There are three basic approaches to fillings in Schwalm, and the author explains all three, then takes you through different stitches within the three categories. The project incorporates all different types of fillings, working you from the basic to the more intricate.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


Close-up photos and detailed explanation take you through what could be tricky ground. This is the aspect of Luzine's book that I prefer vastly over Christine Bishop's book, Schwalm Embroidery Techniques and Designs, which I've already reviewed. While I like Christine's book and find it informative and inspiring, when it comes to actual stitch explanations (especially in the filling techniques) and their sketched diagrams, the book leaves the novice stitcher with questions that require troubleshooting. Luzine's explanations of the filling techniques used in Schwalm are clear, precise, and well illustrated.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


And, again, as you go, you get the photos of the work as you complete a stage.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


Now, in many technique books, the finish work is either neglected completely, or, if finishing is discussed, it is in the most generic of terms. Not so in this book. The author takes you through every step of finishing the project.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


The finishing section alone is worth the book, for anyone interested in any kind of drawn thread or whitework embroidery that requires hemming with a decorative edge. Once you understand the principles, you can apply them to a variety of decorative treatments.

Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel


Finally, in the back of the book, you'll find two semi-transparent pages with clear line drawings of the motifs used in the project. These are marked with dashed lines on the center points, so that you can line up the design precisely on your fabric.

Now, the book is available, but it has to be ordered from Germany either directly from Luzine or from the Museum der Schwalm website in Germany, which is rather difficult to order from. This is the direct link to Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework by Luzine Happel at Museum der Schwalm. Better yet, you can contact Luzine directly for the book and she can send you a Paypal invoice (which is much easier!). Her e-mail is leuchtbergverlag [at] aol [dot] com.

The price is a bit daunting, I know, at 29.9 EURO (about $42US). And you might think that, because it isn't a professionally published book, it couldn't be worth that. I think it is worth that. If you want to learn Schwalm, or you want to explore it further and learn some of the tips and tricks, I think this is the best book for doing so. There's just no comparison between it and the other two popular Schwalm books on the market (Christine Bishop's and Renate Fernau's). While both of those feature beautiful embroidery - and the sampler in Christine's book is really nice! - the actual instruction in both books fall short when compared to this book, in my opinion.

So, if you're interested in Schwalm or whitework in general, I think this is a book to add to your library!

Since reading it, I've decided (ut oh!) that, with the exception of the current long and short stitch stuff I'm preparing for the website, my next "complete" project - as in "real" and "serious" project, is going to be this piece. It's beautiful. And I want to learn from Luzine!! Don't be surprised, then, to see me setting up this project in the next few weeks!

[The Fine Print: No affiliation here - just a Really Good Book that I think you'll like if you're interested in whitework!]

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Monday, July 06, 2009

Coton a Broder Questions, Floche, and Danish Flower Thread

 
Lately, I've gotten quite a few e-mails asking questions about coton a broder, so I figured I'd address them all in one post, and hopefully those who e-mailed and asked are regular readers and will find the answer here! (Two e-mails bounced back and wouldn't deliver!) So... here are some questions about this embroidery thread, and, to the best of my knowledge, the answers to those questions.

#1: Does coton a broder come in colors?

Yes, it does. Technically, though, I've only seen #25 coton a broder available in a very limited range of colors.

However, if it is #16 and listed as coton a broder, chances are, it is "floche" that you want, if you want it in a range of colors. Floche, by both DMC and Anchor, comes in a wide range of beautiful colors, and can be used for the same applications as coton a broder. The only real difference between the two types of thread is that the thread that DMC calls "coton a broder" here in America is a 4-ply softly twisted thread, while floche is a 5-ply softly twisted thread. But they are completely compatible, more or less the same thing, so if you're looking for a #16 in various colors, what you need to look for is floche rather than what we call "coton a broder," which is more of a whitework and cutwork thread.

This is floche:

Floche for Hand Embroidery


#2: What's the difference between Danish Flower Thread and coton a broder?

In America, coton a broder is actually a mercerized thread, which means it has a sheen to it. Danish Flower Thread is non-mercerized, or matte, and has no sheen. However, it seems that, in other countries (South Africa, Australia, New Zealand), coton a broder is actually a matte thread, the term used interchangeably with flower thread. However (again!), in America, what we buy as flower thread is definitely more tightly twisted than coton a broder or floche. You can see the individual twists in flower thread more distinctly than you can in floche or coton a broder. Look:

Floche vs. Danish Flower Thread


The top thread is mercerized (it has a sheen) and has a looser twist. It is floche. The bottom thread is not mercerized (it is matte) and the twist is a little tighter. It is flower thread.

#3: Where can I find coton a broder, for cutwork or for colored embroidery?

If you're looking for cutwork thread, coton a broder in white, you can find various sizes available through Lacis. Look under "materials," then "Needlework, DMC, etc." in their online catalog. They have sizes 16, 20, 25, 30, and 40.

You can also find floche in colors on the same page of the Lacis online catalog. However, I like to order my floche from Hedgehog Handworks, where you can order it in large hanks or smaller skeins, and where you can also order Danish Flower Thread, if you're looking for matte thread.

If you're looking for Danish Flower Thread (matte coton a broder, more or less), you can order that through Hedgehog, on the same page as the link in the above paragraph, or you can order it from Nordic Needle. Right now, it looks as if they don't have many colors listed on their website, but I saw a whole rack of the entire range of flower thread, so I'm sure you can probably call them with the colors you want.

For further information on these threads - floche, coton a broder, and flower thread - check out these articles:

Comparison between floche and other common DMC threads

Comparison between floche and Danish Flower Thread

I hope this helps answer some questions about these threads. I'm sorry I couldn't get through to a couple of those who e-mailed with the questions, but since it's useful information for needleworkers in general, I thought it worth a little write-up!

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