Perhaps instead of "old linens," I should use the term "vintage," which has a much better ring to it! What about working your own hand embroidery on vintage linens? Do you think it's a good idea, or would it be a waste of time, since they're already... um... "old"?

I was considering the question of doing some hand embroidery - specifically, whitework - on vintage linens because I had the opportunity to acquire a couple vintage pieces that I liked.

One piece is a table runner or dresser scarf with a hand-crocheted edge all around it, and a very elaborate crocheted design with tassels on each end.



The crocheted edge needs to be pressed and re-situated, but you can see that it's a rather complex edging which could propose a problem for the embroiderer: I wouldn't want to mar the crochet with a hoop or snag it or anything like that! So that could be an "in-hand" job, if necessary.



The edging all around the linen is very pretty, and a bit simpler. I love the picot at the tip of each scallop.

The other is a buffet cloth - long and narrow, scalloped on three sides, with a straight edge that would run along the back of a buffet. The scallops are finished in an overcast stitch, and then a crocheted edge is added for a nice finish.



The linen on the piece is exceptional - a smooth hand, and a crisp finish. It's so nice! It's not slubby at all. It reminds me of Legacy's Ecclesiastical Linen - a perfect weight for whitework.



The edge is nicely done. The only flaw in the piece is a tiny whole at one point on the linen. I was thinking that, if I did do some whitework on this piece, I could use a pattern with eyelets and get rid of the hole by turning it into one!

These were offered as vintage linens from a reputable seller, and you can tell they aren't new, but I don't know enough about vintage textiles to approximate when they were made - they're not that old, anyway. The sheen of both is nice, but the second piece is certainly finer linen. It's a brighter white, while the first piece is slightly ecru and the linen itself is more coarse.

So, that is what I am contemplating - should I or should I not add further embellishment with some whitework on either linen? What do you think? Have you undertaken such a project before? Any tips?

Labels: fabric for embroidery, linen, vintage embroidery, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Saturday, April 26, 2008
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Needle lace is a general term for - yes - lace made with a needle. There are many different types of needle lace. It seems that each region of Europe, for example, that has a needlework tradition, seems to have their own style of needle lace.

I love needle lace! I especially like the types that adorn linens. Italian cutwork is perhaps my favorite! I thought I'd just share a couple photos of a practice piece of needle lace that I pulled out of my sample binder today when I was cleaning up.

Italian cutwork is a technique that embodies whitework, cutwork, and needle lace techniques. It's worked on linen, and the design that is to become the inset needle lace is created by laying a foundation of threads in the pattern of the design, then cutting carefully away the linen and folding it back, stitching over the folded edge. Then, over the foundation threads that mark out the lace pattern, stitches are worked - usually buttonhole stitch, worked close together. Triangles, arches, and so forth can all be worked in geometric designs within cut out squares or other shapes.

The linen is further embellished with white embroidery. Some pieces of Italian cutwork are extrememly intricate, and really, really beautiful! Reticella, another Italian needle lace, had its origins in cutwork, but the technique for reticella lace eventually migrated to working the lace over threads, completely free of the ground fabric. Italian cutwork makes use of the ground fabric (linen) to anchor the foundation threads of the design (although, technically, you can make the same type of needle lace designs on paper, so that you have a separate piece of lace...)

Ok, enough! If you want to read further about Italian cutwork, I suggest the Priscialla Italian Cutwork book - you can buy it "new" and revamped from Iva Rose Reproductions. If you follow that link, you'll see a preview of the book, with some good photos of Italian cutwork.

Here's a little piece of needle lace I worked up as a sample a couple years ago. I was fiddling with Italian cutwork, and this was one of the little needle lace designs in the book.



The piece is a little short of two inches square. You can see that my picots are not so well done! It took a little practice to get those right! Also, the edge is not complete.



You can see the back here, with the linen cut and folded back. After the edges are stitched over (either with buttonhole or with an overcast stitch), you cut away the excess of the triangles.

So that's a little needle lace sample!

If you want to look further into needle lace online, here are a couple links:

Needle Lace - this has a nice introduction to needle lace, some patterns, pictures and descriptions of stitches.
Needle lace identification - here, you'll find some photos of different types of needle lace. Follow the links to see different types.
Beeton's Book of Needlework - hosted by Project Gutenburg, an excellent book of all kinds of needlework, with pages dedicated to needle lace.
The UK Lace Guild - good general information on needle lace - check the side menu for links to a few different types.
Antique Needlelace - some beautiful samples from the collection of Marla Mallett. You can click on the links for close up images, and the descriptions are good. This is not necessarily "cut work" lace - most samples are needle lace worked on net grounds.
Victoria & Albert - Here, you can type "needle lace" into the search feature, and view their online photos of different types of needle lace. There are some beautiful examples of cutwork & needle lace available - one handkerchief in particular is just stunning!

If you have any other resources on needle lace, feel free to share by leaving a comment! Thanks!

Labels: needlelace, needlework pictures, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, December 11, 2007
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This was a fun embroidery pattern to draw up. I took the inspiration from this from a door plate, of all things. You know, sometimes I think it's a curse when everything you see - even the most mundane things around your house - scream, "Wouldn't I make a Great Embroidery Pattern?" That was certainly the case with this, and I've been thinking about it for a loooong time.

So this slender bunch of flowers could be embroidered a number of ways. Oh, yes - they would serve for needle painting - but... I was thinking that, worked on a very fine linen or batiste (probably linen, since it's a bit sturdier), the design would make an excellent study in whitework. If I were going to use whitework techniques on it, I'd make use of the typical outline type stitches and seed stitches, but I'd also try some more textured stitches, or even some pulled techniques, for the various leaves, just for variety.

Well, in any case, here's the design, and you can do with it whatever pleases you! Click on the pattern for a larger version, which you can save to your computer and scale up or down.



How would you see this pattern interpreted? What kind of technique do you think is suited to it? Any ideas??? I'd love to hear them!

Also, lately, I've mentioned to readers that I'd love to be able to share any photos of work they do with the patterns from Needle'NThread, and I've had two readers lately who have sent me photos! If you've used patterns from here and you want to share your work with other readers, don't hesitate to send me a photo. You can e-mail me at mary [at] needlenthread.com.

Labels: free embroidery patterns, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, November 14, 2007
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If you're a fan of whitework embroidery, there's an online exhibit of fabulous pieces of whitework that you can't afford to miss! "Whitework" is a rather generic term for white-on-white hand embroidery, and as you browse through this exhibit, you'll see how whitework can encompass many, many needlework techniques.

The Whitework Exhibit online at Lacis Museum details extraordinary pieces of whitework - some are so detailed and finely worked that it's hard to imagine the time and effort that went into them! They are simply gorgeous pieces!



At the online museum, click "slide show" to meander through photos of this exquisite work. You can also select the Whitework Exhibit Catalog link to read (in PDF format) about the different types of whitework that are showcased in the exhibit.

If you have time to go browsing and you like whitework - or really any needlework technique! - this is a good place to spend some moments. Enjoy!

Labels: embroidery resources, historical needlework, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Friday, April 20, 2007
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When it comes to learning embroidery techniques, you can't go wrong with Country Bumpkin's A-Z series, and they've done it again! They've released another great book in the series, this time on whitework embroidery. Here's what you'll find in it...

The A-Z Book of Whitework (Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Whitework) covers all the basics of whitework techniques, from candlewicking to cutwork and net embroidery. You'll find hundreds of step-by-step photos for stitch directions and finish work. The book is thorough, has great ideas in it, and makes whitework accessible even for the beginner. You can purchase the book through Country Bumpkin's website, where you'll also find the rest of their A-Z books and heaps of other goodies - kits, accessories, gifts, and subscriptions to their magazines, Inspirations Magazine and Australian Smocking & Embroidery.



What is whitework? Basically, it's any kind of stitching technique in white threads on white cloth. Normally, it's associated with embroidering motifs in white cotton on white linen, and often includes spaces in the design that have been cut away, in a technique called cutwork. Whitework is often associated with household linens and smaller items like monogrammed handkerchiefs. The stitches used are various, but typically you see padded satin stitch, stem stitch, buttonhole stitch, lattice work over open ground, seed stitching, French knots, and a variety of filling techniques.

Some techniques of whitework, such as Mountmellick embroidery, rely on relief work, padded stitches, and stitches that provide a lot of texture, so that there's a noticeable and pleasing contrast between the fabric and the stitchwork.

I thought I'd show you some samples of my whitework pieces that are either (unfortunately) in storage boxes for lack of household space, or that I have here and there around the house.



This is a close-up of a handkerchief, which I guess passes for whitework, although some of the stitching, as you can see, is not white, but rather a pale, pale blue. Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue - you guessed it - it's a wedding hanky! Most of the stitching is pin stitch, stem stitch, satin stitch, and eyelets. All of these techniques are covered in the A-Z book!



This is an angled close-up on a dresser scarf, which is on top of an old dresser. I didn't iron it too well last time, I guess. Anyway, you can see here the cutwork and the overcast stitches - all of which are covered in the A-Z book!



Here's an overhead view of the same, and you can see the embroidered net insert (filet embroidery), which is also covered in the A-Z book!



I just love this piece, which I'm keep stored for now! This one is NOT my work - I purchased it through an antique dealer. I can't take credit for something this gorgeous!! But I do love it! Here's another close-up:



The eyelets are really well done. This is my favorite part of the motif - I love the little 'crown' look with the bow at the tip of the cutwork.



The satin stitching here is very nice, and you can see another close up of it below. The other filling is merely created with long straight stitches in some cases, and rows of stem stitching in other cases. You can see the backstitching down the center of the leaves.



Very nice satin stitching on these petals! The thread looks to me like coton a broder. There's enough shine to it, anyway, to be certain that it's mercerized.



And here's another example of a whitework tablecloth, edged in needle lace, with eyelet work and needlelace inserts. Another favorite piece unfortunately enjoying storage!

So, if you want to see what whitework is all about, check out the A-Z Book of Whitework at Country Bumpkin. Right now, it's not available through Amazon, so you'll have to find it in a retail embroidery shop or order it straigt through Country Bumpkin. The disadvantage is that you will pay high postage, because it's coming from Australia. You can always offset the postage a little by combining the order with other goodies from Country Bumpkin, though! But if you're a little more careful with your budget, you might want to wait until it's available through booksellers in America. It will save you at least half again the cost of the book in postage, and you won't have to wait 10 or more days for its arrival!

Labels: embroidery books, pictures, whitework

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, April 18, 2007
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