Needle'nThread.com: June 2006

Friday, June 30, 2006

Embroider This! - What a Good Idea!

Ok, if you're like me, you like to do the embroidery - the stitching is great! - but when it comes to the finish work..... rrrrrgh. And so, you might end up with a few of those "UFOs" (Un-Finished Objects) floating around in closets, taking up storage space... nagging you. Yep, I know the feeling! The other day, I decided to take the plunge and order some stuff from a merchant that I've seen online, but just never paid attention to...

Embroider This! specializes in finished items, ready to personalize with your own embroidery. I imagine they're primarily servicing machine-embroidery customers, which is quite alright - because if you can machine-embroider something, I'm pretty sure you can hand-embroider it, too.

So what did I get that I really liked? I bought three pre-made linen guest towels that would make great wedding gifts once personalized; some linen hankies, which can be used as hankies if you want, or as "doilies" or whatnot; a really nice drawn-thread apron, 100% cotton, which would be darling with a little embroidered accent on it; and some flour sack towels (another great gift idea). I can't wait to stitch up a couple of the items. They'll make great gifts!

The shipping is fast, and the goods I bought were all of a decent quality. What an easy way to get some of those Christmas presents done!

Check out Embroider This! and start stitching!

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Thursday, June 29, 2006

Embroidery Design - Fleur de Lys Border

Here's a free embroidery design for you... You could use it as a very pretty edge on curtains, on a tea cloth, or on a full table cloth. It would look pretty done in white on white, or in a single color on white or cream (deep red or gold on cream would look great!). The Fleur de Lys design is a classic. This would stitch up pretty quickly.

If you're going to extend the pattern, trace it and overlap the previous design. If you set up your tracing paper with lines, or if you use vellum graph paper, you will get a nice, square image.

For stitching, you could simply employ any basic line stitch. Think of the satisfaction you'll have as you move quickly through this pretty design!

For threads, you could use cottons, although I think this would be really gorgeous done in a thicker silk twist, like Trebizond silk - but remember to use short lengths of thread. But if you're expecting to wash the finished product often, you should probably stick with a cotton thread.

Other ideas: Satin stitch the petal shapes. Or make a silk scarf and use this as a design for the ends, couching down gold thread for the design.

If you have any creative ideas about how this design can be used, feel free to share them!

Click the picture below for a larger image. Right click on the larger image and save to your computer.

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Basic Embroidery Stitches: Chain Stitches

If you've got the line stitches down, and want to move on to some more variations, chain-type stitches may fill the bill.

The chain stitch is a fairly old stitch. It was commonly used in the Middle Ages to define lines and to fill spaces. A variation - the split stitch - was used to define and shade delicate faces and hands.

Chain Stitch: This is a great stitch for lines and curves. It can be delicate or heavy depending on the thread you use. There are lots of variations on chain stitch: it can be whipped, it can be twisted, it can be doubled, it can be "checkered," and on and on. Once you know the basic stitch, experiment! It's a very versatile stitch. Chain stitch can be worked from top to bottom or bottom to top - it doesn't really matter - but as a right-hander, when considering horizontal direction, I prefer working from right to left with it. Left-handers may find that left to right is easier.
Direction: To begin, bring the needle and thread through the fabric. Take the needle back down at the same spot you emerged, and then encourage it up again a short distance away (the length of the stitch). Make sure the working thread is under the needle as you pull it and the thread through the fabric. Pull firmly enough to take the loop of the thread to the "throat" of the working thread, but not so firmly that your stitch stretches too straight and your working thread gets pulled backwards! It's best if you pull the thread through going forwards. On subsequent stitches, you take your needle back down into the loop you just created, and encourage it up a stitch-length later. NOTE: Don't take your needle down outside the loop, as you would for a detached chain! Take it down inside the loop! (For the longest time, I worked this stitch taking the needle down outside the loop, and it just never looked right. I wonder why??!)

Split Stitch: Split stitch ends up looking a little like a chain stitch, only it's a little finer because you're splitting a single thread. This stitch was commonly used for delicate shading on faces and hands. It also makes a good outline for delicate curves and lines. You can fill an area by working split stitches in lines close to each other, changing the shade of your thread to create a painted effect.
Direction: For left-handers, work right to left; for right-handers, left to right. Bring the thread out of the fabric at A. Take the needle back into the fabric close to A, pointing backwards towards A, and as you encourage the needle back up, split the working thread. This is worked in the same manner as outline stitch or back stitch, but when you come up, you take the needle through the working thread.

Wheat Stitch: This stitch is worked from top to bottom as shown, or from left to right, or from right to left. It can be used for edges and oulines, especially effective in crazy quilting techniques and such. It obviously makes great stalks of wheat. If I use it for wheat, I usually finish the very top of a line of stitches with a straight stitch to complete the look of the "wheat."
Direction: Bring the needle and thread out at A, which is slightly off the line you are working. Make an angled straight stitch, by taking it down on the line. Bring the needle back up at B, and make another straight stitch opposite to A, meeting at the line (as shown in the diagram). Bring the needle up on the line below the "V" created by the straight stitches, and then pass through the base of the straight stitches, and back down where you just brought the needle up. Go up at C, and make an angled straight stitch to the base of the loop you just formed, taking the needle and thread to the back of your fabric, up at D, and forming the last straight stitch. Now, as you continue down the line, keep looping the thread through the straight stitches, as shown in the diagram.

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Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Basic Embroidery Stitches: Line Stitches

A simple outlined pattern on a household item is a perfect way to personalize an embroidered gift - whether its a gift to mom, a friend, or even to yourself! Personalized touches can be added simply and relatively quickly using different line stitches. Line stitches are used in most embroidery techniques, so whether you're going for something simple, or you're trying to make a cutwork or needlelace table cloth, chances are you are going to employ some line stitches. So here are the basic ones... Experiment with them! They aren't just for lines - they can also be used for fillings. If you have any additional uses for any of these stitches, feel free to share! And if you have any questions or corrections, post a comment - I'm all ears!

Running stitch: This is perhaps the most basic "sewing" stitch, and it can be used well for decorative effects in embroidery. This is the first stitch I teach in my embroidery classes, and even though it seems really basic, it makes for a good exercise in judging stitch length and spacing. To look "nice," running stitches need to be evenly spaced and of even length - though the space between the stitches does not always have to equal the length of the stitch! You can create different effects by using longer stitches, with smaller spaces between them. You can create a light fill with running stitch, by alternating the spacing in parallel lines, forming a kind of "brick" effect. The running stitch, when worked very small and very close together in fine thread on fine fabric, can be used for delicate vines and lines. It can also be "whipped" (explained below) to make a solid line with a rope-like effect.
Direction: For right-handers, work from right to left or top to bottom. For left-handers, work from left to right, or top to bottom. Bring the needle to the front of the fabric at A, and pull the thread through. Now, for the rest of your stitches, you can work them more quickly if you "run" them on the top of the fabric, without taking your hand to the back. Go down at B, and, using your fingers on your non-dominant hand (the one that's not holding the needle!) behind the fabric, encourage the needle to come up again at C. Pull the thread through. Work to the end of the line or curve in this manner, and try to keep your stitches straight and even! The more you practice, the easier it gets!

Whipped running stitch: The "whipped" part of this stitch is demonstrated in red. You can "whip" a stitch with a contrasting color, with the same color, or with a shade of the same color, all of which will give a different effect. The weight of the thread also determines the effect. If you are using one fine strand of floss or thread, your stitch will be very delicate. In this case, you should stitch a row of tiny, close running stitches.
Direction: Bring the needle up at the point where you began your running stitches. Take your needle down through each running stitch, passing between the stitch and the fabric, without picking up any fabric. When you reach the end of the running stitch foundation, take the needle to the back of the fabric at the same point where you ended your running stitches. Secure the thread in the usual way (by running it under the backs of your stitches) and snip. And there you have it!

Back Stitch: This is another easy outline stitch which can be used to good effect on delicate or heavy lines. This stitch is commonly used in counted cross stitch. The back stitch can be further decorated by whipping it, just like the running stitch above. The key to good looking back stitches - just like running stitches - is even stitches.
Direction: Left-handers: you're going to work left to right. Right-handers: work right to left, bringing your thread up at A, determining the length of your stitch between A and the starting point of your line. Take your needle back to B, insert and encourage it up at C (using a finger of your other hand under your work). Pull the thread through. Continue working in a backwards-forewards motion until you have completed the line. At the end of the line, take the needle down at the end of the second to the last stitch, thus forming your final stitch. On the underside of your fabric, whip the needle and working thread in and out of the stitches formed to secure it.

Outline Stitch: This stitch is a lot like the stem stitch in technique, but the outcome looks slightly different. In stem stitch (below), the individual stitches remain quite distinct, while in outline stitch, the stitches twist together, forming a solid line without clear distinction in the stitches. They kind of "twist together" and make a smoother looking "rope." I prefer the stem stitch (below) to the outline stitch, especially if I'm using it as a filling. You can use both of them as filling, by working rows close to each other, and you can achieve a nice shaded effect by switching to lighter shades as you go along. But for some reason, the stem stitch seems to work better for that than the outline stitch does. The outline stitch is great for nice, tight-looking, fine outlines. It takes curves well, so it's great for curly-q's.
Direction: For left-handed stitchers, you will stitch in the opposite direction, and keep the thread below the needle. For right-handed stitchers: outline stitch is worked from left to right, by bringing the needle up into the fabric at the beginning of the line to be covered. Put the needle into the fabric at the point that determines the length of the stitch. Without pulling through, pointing the needle back towards the beginning of the line and keeping the thread ABOVE the needle, push the tip of your needle through the fabric about halfway down the length of the stitch. Pull through. Continue in this "back and forth" manner, going forward, but always pointing the needle back towards the beginning of your work, and, for subsequent stitches, bring the needle up where you finished the last stitch. User the fingers on your non-stitching hand to encourage the needle back into the fabric. This way, you can avoid taking your hand to the back of the fabric. Try to keep your stitches even.

Stem Stitch: Like the outline stitch, stem stitch can be used to outline delicate lines, curves, and curly-q's. Unlike the outline stitch, the stem stitch produces a line of more defined invidual stitches. Like the running stitch, the stem stitch can be whipped. Stem stitch makes great stems (of course!) on leaves and flowers, as well as simple outlines on any design. Stem stitch can also be used as a thick filler, by working rows next to each other. You can add shading to your filling by changing the shade of the thread.
Direction: For left-handers, work this stitch right to left, keeping the thread above the needle (opposite of the diagram). Right-handers: Bring the needle and the thread through the fabric at your starting point (A). Take your needle down at B (which will determine the length of the rest of your stitches). Encourage the needle back up about halfway back along the stitch line, and pull the thread through. You can work directly on your stitch line, and just nudge your thread over as you come up. As you take the second stitch, the emerging point of the needle (C) will be at the end of the previous stitch. You can reduce this distance, and only go back half the space (or even less), and elongate your stitches. You can also stitch on more of an angle (as shown in the diagram) to achieve a wider line.

Couching: another great way to achieve a neat line, as well as to fill an area. Couching is basically the stitching down of a thicker thread that is laid on the fabric, using usually a finer thread. It is an essential technique in most goldwork. But it doesn't have to be used only for goldwork! I teach my 10 - 14 year olds couching by having them fill in an area between two parallel lines with #3 or #5 perle cotton - usually in a nice, bright color - which is couched down with a contrasting bright color in a brick pattern (that is, alternating the placement of the couching thread in each line). They love the effect! Couching is used in the technique "Or Nue" (a goldwork technique) in such a way that the placement of the couching stitches determines the shading of the figure being embroidered. I have some links to examples of Or Nue on this page.
Direction: Lay your thicker thread (the thread to be couched) on your design. In some cases, you can thread a larger needle with your thicker thread and bring it up through your fabric. In other cases, you take the couched thread ends to the back of the fabric later, or not at all. Thread your needle with a fine thread. Use a contrasting color if you want your stitches to be seen; use a similar color if you do not want your stitches to be seen. If you are couching down gold or other metalics, you will want to wax your thread first. Take small stitches over the laid thread, perpendicular to it, and evenly spaced. Catch the fabric in the back at each stitch. When you fill a pattern, you usually alternate the placement of your stitches, so that, even if the couching thread is a similar color to the laid thread, you still get a kind of pleasing pattern.

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Goldwork - Good Resources

Goldwork is embroidery with gold. Different types of gold are used. Generally, the gold has been "spun" or pulled into long, tiny thin wires, and then either wound around a central thread or coiled into a tiny spring shape. Other types of gold are sometimes employed - from gold spangles (almost like sequins) to gold "plate" (broader strips of thin gold). Goldwork has a long history, beginning in the Far East and spreading into the West, where it became especially popular during the Middle Ages and later as decoration on liturgical (Church) vestments.

Probably the height of skill in goldwork history was the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance when a technique called "or nue" became popular. This technique involves couching metal thread ("passing thread") with colored silk, varying the distance of the stitches to provide shading on the image. You can see a gorgeous example of Or Nue here, and another one here. Both are close-ups of vestments in excellent shape, the former depicting the Blessed Virgin and the latter depicting the Annunciation.

Goldwork eventually was also used to decorate the clothing of the wealthy and the uniforms of the military.

Today, goldwork is gaining in popularity again - people are using it to decorate clothing, handbags, and whatnot. It's being revived as a hand-embroidery technique, a little challenging, but very rewarding. There are several good sources of information on goldwork, but the biggest problem is finding good thread, and, if you're starting out, finding a source to help you along.

You can find some excellent goldwork kits to get you started in this exciting needle art from Tanja Berlin, who is located in Canada. She's a designer featured in many publications, and she puts together a great goldwork sampler kit that will introduce you to goldwork techniques. She also has several other kits - even a few on Or Nue - that are really gorgeous. Here's her goldwork page. Tanja also supplies those who purchase her kits with e-mail support, which is a great perk for the beginner. Note: shipping costs are pretty high, and shipping is rather slow from Canada. What you might save in the exchange rate, you will probably lose in shipping.

If you are really intrigued by goldwork and what to get started on something that will introduce you the variety of gold threads, I suggest Tanja's goldwork sampler kit. It's pricey, but it's worth it. Besides, goldwork isn't cheap - the threads are rather expensive, although you can buy gilt threads instead of the higher-content 2% gold. But try that sampler! It's fun (I've worked it), and it will teach you basic goldwork techniques.

If you consider purchasing a book to help you get started in goldwork, there are quite a few available on the market, but not many that I really personally like. There are two books below that are pretty good, but New Ideas in Goldwork by Tracy Franklin is probably my favorite so far. The instructions within are pretty good. I'm really looking forward to the Beginner's Guide to Goldwork (being published by Search Press), which will be released in December, 2006.

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Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Passion Flower - Embroidery Pattern

Here's a pretty pattern for hand embroidery. It would look great on a small table cloth in white work, on a dresser scarf, on a set of guest towels, or even on a handbag! The passion flowers are arranged in a corner design, and could be worked in white, or in colors.

Satin stitch could be used for much of the design, or it could be needle-painted. Try some Montmellic techniques on it, in white, for a textured design. The possibilities are endless! Have fun with it!

To use in two corners on the same piece, you can "mirror" the image by flipping it horizontally in your graphics program, or you can trace the image, and turn your traced design upside-down before transferring.

Click on the image for a larger version. Right-click on the larger image and save to your computer.

For more hand-embroidery images, click here.

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Monday, June 26, 2006

Hand Embroidery Patterns

Free patterns for hand embroidery! Here you'll find a variety of motifs to embroider anywhere. They would look great on household linens (guest towels, table runners, table cloths, & cutwork pieces come to mind) or even as accents on clothing. Click on the image to view a larger version. Right-click on the larger version and save it to your desktop.

These come from an old embroidery pattern catalog, with no copyright. To my knowledge, they have not been reproduced, digitally enhanced, or printed by anyone recently. I have a photocopy of the original book, so I will be scanning and touching up the images, and then adding them as time allows. So check back often!

Here's a nice stylized flower stalk. It would look great in any kind of thread, but especially in silks, with a combination of stitches for texture. You could also "needle paint" it for a nice, smooth effect. Goldwork is another option, for something very fancy. You could work this in white, on white linen, for a nice guest towel. Vary your stitches for texture, and you'd have a beautiful design in white. Seed stitch inside different line stitches can create a nice effect. Click on the image for a larger version.

Here's a list of more designs for hand embroidery that you'll find on this site:

Passion Flower Design - great for corners!

Fleur de Lys border - lots of options on this one, and easy to stitch, using basic line stitches.

Single Lily - perfect for household linens, guest towels, and whatnot.

Border for Redwork or other techniques - a simple border that would work up quickly.

Pretty Daisies - great for practicing line stitches around curves.

Butterflies! - A couple nice butterflies for any kind of hand embroidery technique.

Acorn Border - a simple border suitable for anything fallish!

Maple Leaf

Flower Border - published under the "Linea" post, this pattern is suitable for any embellishment.

Grape Vine - Exceptionally pretty design for borders on household items.

A Scrolly Border - another versatile border design

Jacobean pattern - an exercise in crewel work, for more advanced embroiderers

The Acorn, revisited - another acorn pattern for seasonal embroidery

Simple Rose Design - a corner design of simple roses

Jacobean pattern with Butterfly

Daisies! - great embellishments for just about anything.

Single Flower - another multi-purpose design, suitable for beginners and beyond; includes stitching suggestions.

A Bunch of Little Flowers - all kinds of uses for this design. A repeat is also shown.

Goldwork Sampler - a magnificent pattern to use as a 'sampler' for learning different techniques of goldwork.

Silk Shading Sampler - a beautiful pattern suitable for practice in silk shading and gold couching.

Sunflower Cross - a nice pattern for basic embroidery stitches - can be used for church embroidery or secular.

Flower Medallion - another pattern that can be used for basic embroidery on household goods, etc.

Decorative Border - this pattern would look great on the edge of household linens.

Simple Lily - this pattern is very simple, and would be great for quick embellishments or even for applique techniques.

Bookmark or ? - a diamond column with a four-petal flower motif within, great for a hand embroidered bookmark or even household linens.

A Circular Thing - I'm not sure what else to call this. It's a nice circle pattern, especially suited to line stitches.

Monogram - the Letter A - a very pretty "A" that can be used to personalize gifts and household items.

Circles - a pattern for stitching on the drawstring bags the kids made in our summer embroidery classes, 2007.

Dancing Daisies Garden - another pattern for stitching on the drawstring bags, Summer, 2007.

Simple Daisy Wreath Pattern - this is another pattern used on the kids' drawstring bags this summer, 2007. The middle of the wreath is perfect for a fancy initial!

A Simple Jacobean Motif - with suggestions for stitching.

Embroidered Bag Sampler Pattern - a simple pattern for the outside of a drawstring embroidered bag. Uses a variety of stitches!

Jacobean Flower and Leaf - this is a typical Jacobean looking flower and leaf pattern, very nice for a single motif or worked into a larger piece.

Single Stylized Leaf - here's a simple single stylized leaf pattern which would combine well with other Jacobean motifs or work on its own.

Hanging Flower Pattern - good for goldwork or any kind of surface embroidery, this is a unique little flower and very pretty.

Jacobean Leaves - three leaves together that would make another interesting addition to a whole Jacobean sampler, or can be worked individually. This one is also adaptable to goldwork.

Fuschia Embroidery Pattern - here's a pattern for a single fuschia, very pretty and simple in design.

Simple Single Flower - another pattern that would work well as Jacobean or crewel embroidery, but is adaptable to any surface technique.

Pretty Stylized Scroll & Flower design - this is a beautiful design suitable for silkwork or other shading techniques. It can be adapted to other forms of surface embroidery. It's one of my favorites!

Tulips ala William Morris - Here's a nice tulip pattern after William Morris. It would make a great pattern for any surface technique.

William Morris Flower Thingy - another motif after William Morris.

Slender Flowers - a tall and slender bunch of three flowers, with very pretty leaves and stems. It would make a great study in whitework, but could be used for almost any surface technique.

Fortune Cookies - Rather a strange little motif, but there it is, nonetheless.

Repeating Scroll Design from Therese Dillmont - perfect for shading and filling techniques. A pretty design!

Corner Motif - A pretty and simple diamond (or square) shaped corner motif perfect for hand towels, bread cloths, or even for goldwork couching practice!

A Leafy Border - another simple line design suitable for all kinds of applications - from household goods to the hem of a skirt.

Scrolly Design - works great for line stitches; pretty on household linens and so forth.

Scrolly Medallion - somewhat diamond shaped (though not perfectly symmetrical) and very ornate; another good pattern for simple line stitches.

Medallion Frame - a simple interwoven, double-lined frame that would look great enclosing a monogram.

L-O-V-E in a Box - a four-box design, with L-O-V-E written in flowered monograms.

Scalloped Heart - very simple and sweet.

Leafy Medallion - I think this one would work well for goldwork.

Blackwork Trees - Well, you can divide up the motif, actually, and use it as trees, or line them up and use them as a decorative edge! Up to you!

Stylized Pomegranate - Pretty design, perfect for needlepainting or goldwork, and would work well for ecclesiastical embroidery, too.

Carnations - a pretty carnation bunch, perfect for needlepainting. There's a colored version along with it, so you can get an idea of shading!

Leaf and Flower Corner - a perfect design for the corner of a handkerchief, or cloth napkins, or a larger tea towel, or - even larger - a tablecloth.

Diamonds and Fleur de Lys - a diamond motif for simple embroidery.

Needlelace Pattern - an egg-shaped pattern for needlelace, with resources for learning techniques.

Cutwork Pattern - flower motif with scroll designs for cutwork. This pretty design can also be used for other embroidery techniques.

Another Scrolly Medallion - perfect for line stitches and satin stitch dots. This design would be great on a square pillow or on the outside pocket of a tote bag.

A Turkey - Great for Thanksgiving and Autumn embroidery, as well as for various kitchen items.

Stylized Tudor Pomegranate - This design would be fantastic for goldwork and silk shading.

Quaker Motif: Bird in Tree - This design is styled after a Mary Wigham cross stitch motif and adapted for hand embroidery. It would make an excellent Christmas ornament or a nice element on your own surface embroidery sampler.

Quaker Motif: Circle, Petals, & Quilt-Square - This is another design adapted from a Quaker cross stitch motif and made into a hand embroidery pattern. This would work well on quilt squares, as it has a kind of quilt-square-look.

Farmyard Scene & Fable Illustration - a neat cutwork pattern that illustrates a fable, this can be used as a regular surface embroidery design as well.

Springy Flower Corner Design - this makes a really nice corner for a brightly embroidered towel, tablecloth, pillowcase, etc. You can see my embroidered version here.

Needlelace Pattern: Easter Egg - This is an egg-shaped pattern for needlelace, perfect for a lace Easter egg or an oval inset.

More to come! Bookmark Needle 'n Thread, or subscribe (in the right column of the website) to my e-mail newsletter or RSS feed, so that you don't miss any updates!

Labels: beginner embroidery, free embroidery patterns, Hand embroidery stitches

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Ecclesiastical & Church Embroidery Patterns

Ecclesiastical embroidery or embroidery for the church or religious use, is one of my interests. I'm including here some free patterns for hand embroidery. They can be enlarged or reduced, and used for a variety of church embroidery projects, including banners, vestments, altar cloths, linens, etc. If you click on the images you will get a full-size image. Right click on the full-sized image and save it to your desktop. You can then edit it in any graphic program.

The patterns below come from an old, out-of-print ecclesiastical pattern catalog. There is no copyright on it. To my knowledge, it has not been reprinted or digitally enhanced by anyone.

I'll be adding the patterns regulary, so check back often!

This is a nice medallion that would look great in goldwork or in silks, especially in couched designs. The whole motif could be worked in colored silks, and then outlined in a very fine gold twist (Elizabethan twist is nice and tiny). The central ring could be worked out of gold passing thread. Or the whole thing could be done in a mixture of goldwork threads - passing thread for the cross and ring, purls for the wheat, pearl purl for the stalks and lines, and rococo for the squiggles at the end of the arms of the cross. The lilies could be embroidered in a fine gold-colored silk. Click on the image for a larger version.

Here's another medallion for use on vestments or linens. It would look excellent on a linen pall, worked in white silk in a variety of stitches to give it some texture. Work the IHS in a slightly padded satin stitch, with the lines on the "S" worked in a whipped running stitch or whipped back stitch. Use one thread to keep the work delicate. The crowns could be lined with a whipped back stitch, with the insides filled with evenly spaced seed stitch filling, all worked in one direction, in an alternating brick pattern. Work the remaining lines in stem stitch, and the leaves in satin stitch. In this manner, the design would be worked very quickly, but with simple and elegant results.

Other ecclesiastical embroidery patterns found on this site:

Thistle & Star Image with IHS

Crown & Wheat IHS emblem

Crosses - twelve patterns for different crosses to embroider

Cross, Crown, and Flowers - a nice design for a book cover or a banner

Labels: ecclesiastical embroidery

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Saturday, June 24, 2006

Satin Stitch

In hand embroidery, the satin stitch seems to be considered "difficult" to stitch well. I don't know why that is. I love the look of satin stitch. With practice, it can be an easy, beautiful stitch for coverage. Here are some of the things I do to make my satin stitched items look good:

I find that satin stitch looks better and is easier to do when your fabric is mounted in a hoop or on a frame, with good tension.

First, outline the shape to be covered with back stitch or split stitch. This ensures an even edge around the shape. Depending on the "thickness" of the satin stitched area, I use either one, two, or three strands of floss for stitching around the edge. Usually, it's two strands. The color corresponds with the color of the thread used for the satin stitching.

Then I fill the center of the shape to be covered with straight stitches perpendicular to the finishing satin stitch.

The last step is to do the satin stitching. For this, I start in the middle of the shape, and work towards one edge, then go back to the middle, and work to the other edge. I work just on the outside of the back-stitched outline. I pick up only one thread of fabric between stitches, and sometimes, I even split that thread, depending on the weight of the floss I'm using and the type of fabric. I prefer to use one strand of stranded embroidery floss for satin stitch, but, again, depending on the weight of the fabric, sometimes I'll use two or more. The finished product seems to look smoother with just one thread. If you use two or more, make sure you let your needle and thread hang often to untwist.

Satin stitching without padding: There are times when it is necessary to satin stitch without any padding underneath, because you don't want the thickness of the padding on your design. In these cases, I still manage a tiny backstitch around the edge of the design, and I keep my stitches as close together as possible.

For satin stitched small dots, I try to stitch in a grid pattern - three center stitches over five threads in the fabric, with a stitch over three threads on each side of the center stitches - to give the appearance of a round dot. I don't outline small satin stitched dots with back stitch first.

I hope those hints help.... pictures coming soon!

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Friday, June 23, 2006

Basic Embroidery Stitches

Hand embroidery begins with a few basic stitches. Once these stitches are mastered, it's very easy to move into other specific embroidery techniques. Here, you can see diagrams of different stitches, with an explanation of how to execute them. The stitches are categorized by "stitch families" - for example, outline stitches, chain stitches, detached stitches, knots, filling stitches, etc. Each "family" has its own page. For more complex forms of stitchery, I suggest purchasing a good book, but for the basics, you can pick them up pretty easily here.

Line Stitches: Running stitch, whipped running stitch, backstitch, outline stitch, stem stitch, and couching.

More Line Stitches: Coral Stitch, Scroll Stitch, Portuguese Knotted Stem Stitch

Chain Stitches

Detached Stitches & Knots

Buttonhole Stitch & Its Various Uses

Filling Stitches - Part I: fishbone and flat stitch

Filling Stitches - Part II: Satin Stitch

If you would like to see video tutorials of these stitches and more, please visit the Video Library of Stitches.

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Thursday, June 22, 2006

Silk Thread - What's the difference?

Silk embroidery thread or floss for surface embroidery is perhaps one of the most delightful threads to use. But there are many different types of silk thread out there, and sometimes it's nice to know what you're looking for before you start buying...

Right off the bat, I will admit that my favorite threads for general embroidery are made by Au Ver a Soie, and I don't think many people will argue that Au Ver a Soie is the best silk on the market, especially once they've tried it. Au Ver a Soie has been around since the late 1800's (1875, to be precise). They produce different types of silk thread, and many of these are imported into the US through Access Commodities.

The most commonly used Au Ver a Soie is probably Soie d'Alger. This is a stranded spun silk, with 7 strands in usually 8 meter skeins, although you can special order 45 meter skeins through some sellers. In France, I believe you can acquire 390-meter hanks! That's a lot of thread! You could compare this silk in weight and usage to regular DMC, but the look is different, because it's silk. DMC is made out of mercerized cotton, which gives it its shiny finish. Mercerization is a chemical process, and over time, mercerized cotton does lose its sheen. Not so with silk. The great thing about Soie d'Alger is that it is produced in an amazing 592 colors. If you like this thread and plan to use it often, you should invest in a Color Selection Guide. It's a handy binder that has actual thread samples arranged according to palette, much like an artist would arrange paint colors. The Color Selection Guide is somewhat pricey, but I found a pretty good deal through The Twining Thread, where, if you purchase the guide, you get along with it $80-worth of coupons for Soie d'Alger. Not bad. The guide ends up costing you about $30 in that case (yes, it's $110.00!)

I've used Soie d'Alger on all types of fabric - linen, silk, cotton - and never been disappointed in the results. The range of shades within a color makes it super for needle painting. Soie d'Alger can be used for all sorts of surface embroidery stitches. It's a strong thread, too, and so it works well with drawn thread work and cutwork, even if it's not exactly "authentic" to these types of embroidery.

There are heaps of other silks available on the market - stay tuned for more.

Where to buy Soie d'Alger:

The Twining Thread: they have an easy order page, if you know what colors you're looking for. They also have excellent, friendly, and quick service.

Accomplishments Shop: They've recently moved from Ohio to Virginia, and apparently will be refurbishing their website soon. They sell all kinds of fine needlework goods, and their website is informative and fun.

Nordic Needle: They also have an easy-order page, and besides the thread number, you get a description of the color. They do not stock all colors - some require special ordering.

If you want to convert colors from DMC to Soie d'Alger, you can check out a color conversion chart here.

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Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Embroidery Stitches - a book

Embroidery stitches can be learned easily from books. A needle and floss, some fabric, and a good book, and you're all set. Mary Thomas's Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches is another good reference to have in your library. The book has plenty of full-color instructions and plenty of good ideas on how to use the stitches you've learned.

This particular edition of the book ("revised") has over 400 stitch diagrams in full color, with detailed instructions for each stitch. It includes an introduction that takes you through the basics to get you started. After the introduction, you'll find fourteen sections of stitch-types, from simple outlining to pulled fabric.

The books is pleasing to look at - the colors are great - and it's easy enough to use while you're stitching. The binding would be better if it were spiral, so it would lay flat. But it's "floppy" enough that, with just a little encouragement, it stays put where you need it.

If you're looking for a thorough stitch dictionary, you won't go wrong with this one.

Check out my Needlework Book Reviews to find similar items.

Labels: book review, embroidery books

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Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Filet Lace

Filet Lace is probably one of the oldest types of "embroidery." It's actually the decoration of a net made up of square (or sometimes diamond-shaped) meshes. It's commonly done today on machine-made net (or canvas), usually lacking the characteristic knots on the netted ground found on older samples of lace. This isn't to say, though, that knotted net can't be used. It can, and it creates a beautiful and "authentic" effect.

The problem arises in acquiring the net. In the past, the net was made by hand, and this can certainly still be done. There are plenty of books to show you how to make net by hand, as well as a website here and there devoted to it. But you know what? It can be really boring to make a large enough piece to do anything decorative (like curtains or a table runner).

So, what's the alternative? You could go with machine-made mono-canvas, which I think looks exceptionally flat. Or, you could go with machine-made knotted net, which can still be had through a few sources.

I got "into" filet lace when I was looking at church ornamentation. In churches of old, often the altar linens or the vesture of the priests were ornamented with filet lace. (You can see an example of what I'm talking about at a website called French Yesterdays, in their "antique lace" section here.) Seeing an example of this, I wondered what it was and how it was done.

The example of filet lace at French Yesterdays is commonly called "filet guipure," which is intricately embroidered net. After seeing multiple examples of this, I came across an individual correspondence course through the Embroidery Guild of America, and was instantly intrigued. I joined up with the guild as a "member at large" and launched in. But you know what? I found out that everything I wanted to know and do on net I could learn on my own. It really just takes a knowledge of basic stitches and a little creativity.

In my explorations, I also came across one book that helped me a lot. It is called Filet Lace - Introduction to the Linen Stitch. This book is packed with clear, easy instructions. The author, Marie-Jo Quinault, has a neat website called Filet Lace By the Sea, where you can purchase the book. Essentially, it covers primarily the linen stitch, which is a form of needleweaving through the mesh. Perhaps more exciting than the book is the fact that Marie-Jo also sells knotted net, for those of us who prefer the "authentic" look of the net ground, without the grueling hours of making your own net.

Don't get me wrong, though - making the net is not that bad. There's something to be said for being able to do it. But for an extensive piece, it's a bit much to knot your own net. So the fact that someone offers knotted net is pretty cool! It's reasonably priced, too - she charges for the cut. It's not hand-made, but you can't tell that when you get the piece made up. It's made on an old loom. It's great stuff!

Perhaps the most enticing thing about filet lace is the fact that it really is a very easy way to produce beautiful stuff for the home.

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Teaching Embroidery - The Art of Teaching Craft

Teaching embroidery to youth and adults alike can be a rewarding experience. If you've never taught before, though, it can be frustrating if you don't plan carefully. Fortunately, two ladies - Joyce Spencer and Deborah Kneen - collaborated on a book that takes you step-by-step through the art of teaching craft, whether it is embroidery or any other crafty thing.

If you want to teach embroidery, this book will show you how to get started and how to manage your classroom. The authors explore topics that concern every good teacher...

They begin by self-evaluation. Find out what kind of teacher you are, and use your personality to its potential.

The environment of the classroom is also explored. Whether you are planning to teach in a home studio or in a real classroom, they tell you how to make the most of the classroom environment so that you and your students can be comfortable and productive.

Professionalism is addressed, including questions of ethics, fees, copyright responsibility, and all areas that would concern the professional deportment of a teacher in a classroom.

Then they get into the nitty-gritty: developing realistic lesson plans with achievable objectives. I found this chapter the most instructive, since one essential element of really good teaching is preparation.

In The Art of Teaching Craft, you get directives on establishing goals, using time wisely, managing different personalities within the classroom, evaluating your lessons, motivating students, and dealing with students who have special needs. The authors discuss different strategies and techniques in teaching and how to effectively implement them. They even address the practical questions of running a business as a teacher of crafts.

Throughout the book, blurbs are included from teachers and from students alike, sharing what they like or don't like about different scenarios often found in art and craft classes and workshops. You'll find good scenarios - both positive and negative - and feedback on how to correct similar situations that you might come across in your own teaching.

If you want to be a teacher - whether you want to teach for profit or for community service - this book will give you all the practical guidelines you need to get started.

Labels: book review, embroidery books

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Monday, June 19, 2006

Ribbon Embroidery & Stumpwork - Book Review

Ribbon embroidery and stumpwork may not be your idea of "beginner's" embroidery, and, in some cases, I would say it really isn't. But this fantastic book by Di van Niekerk makes both ribbon embroidery and stumpwork accessible even to the newbie.

Ribbon embroidery in itself isn't too difficult. If you know your basic stitches then you can apply them to embroidery with ribbon almost as easily as with thread. But if you want to go beyond the average daisy or rose, then you'll want to have a good guide to show you how.

Di van Niekerk is just such a guide. The book Ribbon Embroidery and Stumpwork not only makes the journey from simple ribbon stitching to complex, full-textured stumpwork and ribbon easy, but it also makes it fun. This book is beautiful - anyone, whether an embroiderer or not, would be enchanted just flipping through it. The flowers and plant life are realistic and charming. The author takes the stitcher step-by-step through creating 12 different "panels" or motifs in stumpwork and ribbon. Each panel is made up of a small collage of flowers or fruit or greenery, sometimes accentuated with an insect or bird. The little panels can be worked in one lattice-like composite (gorgeous!) or separately. The concepts can be adapted to any of your own designs.

The author also takes the stitcher through all the basic stitches. There's a colorful and clear stitch glossary in the middle of the book.

Besides covering the embroidery aspect, you'll get some good direction on setting up your fabric, choosing threads and ribbon, and transfering designs. There's quite a bit on heat transfer, using your color printer (or a commercial one) to print the design on the appropriate type of heat transfer paper. (Find this at Joann's online - it's called Photo Effects Transfer Paper). You then iron the design on to your fabric - so you get all the color. The lattice-work composition that is shown on the front cover of the book is included inside. It's a watercolor-type print that you can scan and print on the correct transfer paper.

Anyone interested in either ribbon embroidery or stumpwork - or both! - will love this book! And you can't beat the Amazon price - I paid 25.95 for it from a retail embroidery shop. (That's quite a bit of thread!)

Labels: book review, embroidery books

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Whitework Embroidery - Inexpensive & Beautiful!

White Work - embroidery in white thread on white fabric - is not as hard as it looks. But another bonus is that it is really inexpensive. The one hitch about white work is that it seems to show your skill (or lack thereof!) in stitching much more so than other forms of embroidery.

You don't need much in the way of supplies to produce a nice piece of white work embroidery...

First, you need fabric. Depending on what you want to produce, there are a lot of choices. If you're just starting out, try it on a high-count, pure white muslin (like "Southern Belle" muslin). It's relatively inexpensive, easy to work on, and produces a pretty end-product. If you've got your stitches down, and you really want to produce something nice, then work on good fine linen. Legacy linen makes some good stuff, but when you get into that quality, the price rises considerably! You can work on batiste, organdy, lawn, or anything, really, as long as it's white! I'd say avoid synthetic fabrics or blends - natural fibers seem to be easier to work on.

You'll need a hoop, a pattern, white thread, and needles corresponding to the size of your thread.

You can use a thread or two of regular 6-stranded embroidery floss (DMC or Anchor) or silk, or even very fine white wool, or coton a broder in the smaller sizes. I like using white silk, and YLI is relatively inexpensive and easy to work with.

To transfer the design, you should use blue - I don't know why, but for some reason, if the blue sticks around, it eventually absorbs itself into the white so that it isn't really visible. I use transfer pens that are water soluble, or Saral-type (no wax, no carbon) transfer paper. It wouldn't hurt to test your fabric to make sure the markings will wash out, but I've never had any that wouldn't.

If your fabric's not thin enough to see through easily, you can use a light box for tracing, or - more economically - tape your pattern to a window, and tape your fabric over it. Trace it. If you're using transfer paper, you don't have to worry about tracing.

The typical stitches you'll use are backstitch, stem stitch, satin stitch, chain stitch, buttonhole, and overcast. Other stitches can come into play, so it's a good idea to have a reference book handy if you need it (see my recommendation)

What kinds of designs? They can be as simple or as intricate as you wish - it all depends on your project. If you're just starting out, try something small. A book I like for white work designs is put out by Dover Publications - it's less than $7.00, and has a wealth of nice designs for any type of project in it.

Oh - and good lighting is a must! You can't work white-on-white in the dark!

Have fun with it!

Labels: book review, embroidery books

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Sunday, June 18, 2006

The Embroiderer's Handbook

Embroidery books are a great way to learn the art of embroidery on your own. But if you're starting out, and you don't know just what to buy, it's nice to get a little direction before you purchase. Have you bought embroidery books that weren't quite what you expected, and built of library of less-than-desirable, but expensive books? Avoid that - read some reviews, and then choose. Here's a review on a book I recently aquired, but it's become a favorite!

The Embroiderer's Handbook - a step-by-step illustrated guide to beautiful stitches. If you're familiar with the Country Bumpkin publications and you like them, you will love this book! If you aren't familiar with them, that's ok! You'll still love this book! You'll find all the common stitches, and many uncommon stitches, illustrated in this book. Interspersed among the stitching techniques, you'll find gorgeous photos of great projects. The description on the back of the book reads: "The essential guide to over 150 creative stitches and a comprehensive reference book for the embroiderer." The book includes clear instructions and photos of every stage of the stitch, along with practical tips on different threads, fabric, and equipment. There are also some trouble-shooting hints spattered throughout, covering the more complicated stitches. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, this is a great book to have in your library. The only drawback to it, for me, is that it is not spiral bound like the A to Z books put out by Country Bumpkin. However, the book is "floppy," so it does lay flat enough to stitch and read at the same time. This is a treasure of a book that will always serve as a good reference or just as an enjoyable browsing book - or you could put it on a coffee table just for looks! It's gorgeous.

Labels: book review, embroidery books

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Do you embroider with knots? Want knot? Waste knot!

Embroidery with knots is considered a no-no for some reason. They can cause bumps and bulk where you don't want it. Do you use knots? You're not supposed to, we are told. There are some projects that can't avoid knots, but I've found that most can, and even withstand laundering without them. To avoid knots, use a waste knot - here's how...

A waste knot is basically a knot on the FRONT of the fabric, which you remove when you "catch up" to it.

Tie a regular knot at the end of your embroidery thread. Go down into the fabric from the front, a couple inches away from where you intend to begin stitching, so that when you begin, you are traveling in the direction of the knot. Make sure you're stitching over the "waste thread" on the back as you travel towards the knot. When you catch up with the knot, pull it firmly and clip the thread right above the surface of your fabric. The thread will spring behind the fabric, and then you keep on stitching.

The friction between the thread, the fabric, and the "waste thread" that you have overstitched will keep your thread in place without a knot. It's easy, and it works! Give it a try!

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Saturday, June 17, 2006

Can I teach myself to embroider? Or should I join a group?

Good question! Donâ€™t be intimidated by embroidering. After all, if youâ€™re taking it up for the first time, itâ€™s because you want to do it â€“ so why not try to teach yourself first, before investing in group classes? You know your own interests best, so follow them, and if you run into a hitch, or if you want to go further with formal instruction, then join a group.

Where to start? You need one very good book that teaches basic stitches. The A-Z Series books put out by Country Bumpkin (they do Inspirations Magazine out of Australia) are excellent books for step-by-step instruction. They have a general one: The A-Z of Embroidery Stitches, which is really good. Theyâ€™re packed with step by step photos. You can pick up the less-obscure titles at Amazon, for a lot less than buying them straight from the company or from retail shops. You can usually even find them used on Amazon, for even less. Even if you save just a buck or two â€“ thatâ€™s floss!

Start with a good book, then. Youâ€™ll probably want some fabric â€“ a tightly woven, smooth fabric such as a high-thread count muslin would work, and it would be relatively inexpensive. If youâ€™re the type that wants to launch into something fine, purchase a medium-weight linen (48 thread count or higher for all-purpose embroidery). Then youâ€™ll want a needle, and a hoop. More about these later - but for now, try a #3 crewel needle, and a plastic "Susan Bates" brand hoop (8 or 10 inches).

Why not start with a sampler of surface embroidery stitches? Draw it yourself â€“ simple lines and curves, a row of lazy daisy stitches and perhaps some buttonhole wheels â€“ and your name and the date in outline stitch. Itâ€™s simple! Draw it on graph paper, then trace it onto your fabric using a one-step transfer pen (EZ Marking Pens with a fine tip â€“ purchase them at Hobby Lobby, or on-line at Joannâ€™s), and voila! Youâ€™ve got your design.

If you donâ€™t have floss, head out to a favorite hobby store (Hobby Lobby, for example), and get a nice selection of about 10 colors of DMC. Open your book, and start stitching.

Iâ€™ll put up an example that I use for a youth class, so you can see what I mean, and Iâ€™ll add some stitching ideas and color ideas for youâ€¦. keep an eye out!

See you soon!

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Cutwork, Filet Lace, and Needle Lace

When I think "cutwork" and "filet lace," I generally think of antique linens. We live in a busy world, and our fast-paced life doesn't seem to allow us to slow down and make 'em like they used to. If you've ever come across antique linens - whether in a "real people" store or online - if you're like me, you've asked "How the heck could they do that?" The stitches are tiny; the needlelace is intricate; the drawn-thread work is extensive; and the end product is worthy of a museum. But there's no name - no artist - just a piece of linen, waiting for the highest bidder.

But the art of creating beautiful home linens by hand is not entirely forgotten. There are some good resources out there - here's an "obscure" one that I came across one day...

When I first came across Iva Rose Vintage Publications, I was looking for information on needle lace. I had a purchased an antique linen with needle lace inserts, and I wanted to "remake" it. But I didn't know how. I started searching, bought books, and invested quite a bit in the whole idea. When I came across this website, I knew I had hit something "special." Iva Rose offers digitally restored reprints on some old, old stuff. Many of her reproductions were originally published in the early 1900's. The ones I was particularly interested in were by Carmela Testa & Co. of Boston. The series on Italian cutwork and filet lace is a real treasure.

Iva Rose Vintage Publications is doing a "good work" by preserving these old magazines, which are really part of our heritage. If such works are not digitally preserved soon, I don't think they'll be around long. What a good idea to collect and reprint these publications!

The books are not necessarily for beginners. It does help to have some knowledge of basic stitching. Don't expect the colorful, step-by-step patterns that we see in most embroidery books today, either. These are black & white, and the directions are primarily text, although the Carmela Testa books have plenty of diagrams and patterns - a wealth of them! - and good, clear directions with photos of the essential elements.

If you invest in these, you invest in the past and the future. They're wonderful to have. If you are interested in beautiful linen work, and if you can afford the set, you won't be sorry. If you can't afford the whole set at once, buy a book here and there.

Thanks, Iva Rose Productions!

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Friday, June 16, 2006

Embroidery links - great sources!

Looking for some good sources for information on embroidery? Find them on my links page. I'll be updating it regularly - for now, some of my favorites, which will help the beginner and inspire the pro...

Here are some great embroidery links - find fabric, patterns, threads, accessories, and more!

Find Needlework (& Related) Supplies Online

Lacis - this is probably the most thorough supply house for any kind of needlework. Lacis is located in California. They have a great online catalog. Their shipping rates are reasonable, but expect to wait a bit if you order with standard shipping, especially if you live in the Midwest or on the East Coast. But don't let this deter you! Some stuff, you won't find anywhere else - and you certainly won't find such an array of embroidery goodies in one spot! Have fun browsing - but for a handy reference, pay the mere $5 for their paper catalog.

Needle In A Haystack - Located in Alameda, California, this store has a great online catalog with a wonderful selection of everything, especially threads. Anything I've ordered from them, they've either had, or acquired very quickly. The service is friendly and knowledgeable, the prices are good, and their selection is great! Check out especially their large selection of Au Ver a Soie. They have a photo catalog of all the Soie d'Alger online, which is nice when you're selecting colors. If you're looking for flesh tones in silk, this is the place to order it, as they have them marked clearly, and the ordering process is really easy!

Berlin Embroidery Designs - Here you'll find embroidery designs, kits, instructions, and supplies all put together by Tanja Berlin. When I first got into goldwork, this is where I started. Her beginning goldwork kits (the goldwork sampler) are fun to work and really beautiful. The instructions are clear and easy to follow. If you like needle painting, check out her designs. They're exquisite! She's in Canada, so whatever we in the US might save on the exchange rate, we pay in shipping. But it's worth it!

Sage Stitchworks - A neat site for vintage paper embroidery mottoes. These make great gifts for friends and family, and are quick and easy to work up.

Hedgehog Handworks - this is a great site for harder-to-find supplies. They actually specialize in costuming stuff, it seems, but they carry authentic threads, real metal threads, historical books on needlework, plenty of technique books (some that I haven't come across elsewhere - including a good selection of foreign books), neat tools, fabric, costuming supplies, and the list could go on. It's an easy-order website, and the service is good and the prices reasonable. And, to top it all off, their logo's great!

Country Bumpkin - The editors of the A-Z series books and Inspirations Magazine. They have gorgeous stuff! Enjoy browsing their site. If you're looking for back issues of Inspirations, you can find them here - but beware, overseas shipping can be expensive!

Wendy Shoen Design - a great website for heirloom embroidery. You'll find children's clothes patterns and lots of heirloom embroidery projects and kits. Her needle packs are perfect, if you're looking for a variety pack of needles for general fine embroidery.

Nordic Needle - another thorough supply source, Nordic Needle has been around since the '70's. Here, you can find heaps of stuff on hardanger, counted cross stitch, ribbon embroidery, and many other embroidery techniques. They have a great "free pattern" page (mostly hardanger), and they offer a great selection of embroidery kits. Mostly, I use Nordic Needle as a resource for fabric - they carry all kinds of excellent linen. I also purchase harder-to-find tools and accessories here.

Thread Express - This website has a great selection of threads, as well as other accessories and supplies. They "specialize" in Eterna silk, but they have other makers as well, including Au Ver a Soie (limited), Charon collection, Kreinik, Madeira, and plenty of cottons, wools, etc. Their prices are pretty good - they seem to run a couple cents less than other places on the good stuff.

Embroider This! - a great site for pre-finished items ready to embroider. They cater primarily to machine embroidery, but most of the stuff on the site is great for hand embroidery, too. You can find linens, aprons, hankies, dresser scarves, and a slew of other goods here. Looking for baby bibs and receiving blankets? Their interlock stuff is nice. (Yes, you can hand embroider on interlock!) Items are reasonably priced, service is good, and shipping is quick. Look for their specials - you'll get better deals for things that can be made into good gift items.

Yesterdays Charm - Another site where you can buy pre-finished items, ready to embroider. This shop caters to hand-embroidery, and you will find a bunch of designs for sale here. They also specialize in quilting supplies, mostly for kids' quilts. You can find very nice towels ready to embroider (under ready-made linens). There's a little stitch lesson on-line as well, which is great! Browsing through this site is fun, and it shows how easy it can be to personalize the perfect gift.

Mary Brown Designs - Goldwork Supplies in Australia - Mary Brown is an Australian, so if you order from her, you're ordering from overseas, but the postage is very reasonable, and so are her prices on the metal threads and supplies. Her kits are really beautiful! Check out her website and browse her gallery and her selection of kits. You'll be impressed! And don't forget to convert currency when looking at her prices.

Alison Cole Embroidery - Alison Cole is another Australian embroiderer. She specializes in goldwork and stumpwork. Her site includes full kits that you can order (for US customers, remember to convert currency, and don't forget postage rates!). Her kits are gorgeous! She also has an impressive gallery that's fun to scroll through. Check out her Or Nue work.

Wooly Thread - If you're looking for Appleton wool for crewel work, or wool fabrics for blankets, this is the place to look. They have the full range of Appleton wools, at $1.10 per skein, or you can join their Appleton Crewel Club, and receive a selection monthly, until you've collected all the colors. This way, they average only 85¢ per skein. Check out their site, and if you're a wool enthusiast, sign up for their newsletter, which gives advanced notice of specials. Their wool felt, by the way, is Really Nice - thick, firm, and easy for embroidering "in hand" (without a hoop).

Japanese Embroidery Center - This is a great resource for flat silk and for goldwork supplies (imitation and real Jap for couching and embroidery). The website is interesting - lots of photos of magnificent work of embroidery in the finest of Japanese needlework traditions. For folks who live in the Atlanta, Georgia area, classes in Japanese embroidery are offered throughout the year. The JEC is a non-profit educational organization. Their shipping is reasonable and pretty quick, and the people are really nice and accommodating.

Jane Nicholas: Stumpwork Embroidery - Besides being a stunning website to stroll through (it's like going for a walk in a beautiful garden on an ideal day), this site is packed with supplies for the stumpwork enthusiast. If you haven't tried stumpwork and are interested in doing so, this might be the very place you've been looking for! Jane has 5 beautiful stumpwork books published, all available on the site, but best of all, she offers kits for the projects in the books! (Great idea!) Check out this site! Even if you aren't into stumpwork, you'll enjoy the beautiful stuff! (Make sure to check out her gallery - only three works shown, but wow!) US Shoppers: this is an Australian site, so you're looking at a lot on shipping. Also, you can find better prices on silk threads here in the States, even with the currency exchange.

Embroidery Informational Websites

Pin Tangle - A great place for browsing through marvelous examples of embroidery and reading interesting embroidery stuff. Check this site out! It's so much fun. Sharon Boggan's crazy quilts are works of art, and her embroidery samples are fantastic. The stitch dictionary on her site should be on every embroidery-enthusiast's list of favorites.

Needlecrafter - Neat website! Whoever runs it has a great embroidery pattern library for surface embroidery projects. They're pdf files, so easy to print and trace.

Or Nue - Ever wonder how to do this type of shaded goldwork? Here, you'll find good beginner's instruction. You won't find supplies here, but the instructions are clear and easy to implement if you want to try this technique.

Netting - If you like filet embroidery (filet guipere, filet lace, etc.) and you'd like to make your own netting, here's a website with easy step-by-step instructions. She doesn't get into any embroidery techniques, but you can learn to make the netting ground by hand here.

The Embroiderer's Guild of America - Yep, I'm a member. If you don't have a local chapter nearby, you can become a "member at large" and still take advantage of their workshops and correspondence courses. Their Needle Arts magazine is worth the yearly fees. There's always something fun in it.

Filet Lace by the Sea - Here's a great site for learning filet lace and for purchasing knotted filet netting. If you're interested in filet lace but have never tried it, Filet Lace by the Sea offers beginner kits. You'll find all the tools to get started with your filet lace project available at this website.

Embroidery Patterns - this link will take you to the embroidery patterns page here on Needle 'n Thread! I've got quite a few patterns available on my site, but also a good list of online pattern sites that are worth browsing.

Much more to come, but have fun with these!

Labels: embroidery links, embroidery resources, supplies

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Needlework Books

Find embroidery books here! Books on surface embroidery, cutwork, white work, needlelace, crewel, needle painting, goldwork, and a variety of other techniques will be added, with descriptions and reviews. Check out the lastest...

Are you tired of investing in embroidery books that aren't what you thought, only to find the "perfect book" later? Click on links below to read a description and review. These are books that I've found inspirational and useful. Feel free to make suggestions! And check back often for updates!

The Embroiderer's Handbook
Published by the same people who put out the A-Z series

White Work
By Carter Houck (Dover Publications)

Variety Magazines: Italian Cut Work and Filet Lace
Multiple volumes digitally refurbished by Iva Rose Productions

Ribbon Embroidery and Stumpwork
By Di van Niekerk, published by Search Press

The Art of Teaching Craft
By Joyce Spencer and Deborah Kneen

Filet Lace - Introduction to the Linen Stitch
By Marie-Jo Quinault at Filet Lace By the Sea

Metal Thread Embroidery
By Jane Lemon

Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches
By Mary Thomas

Painting with a Needle
By Young Yang Chung

Royal School of Needlework Embroidery Techniques
By Sally Saunders

The Art of Embroidery
By Lanto Synge

The Beginner's Guide to Goldwork
by Ruth Chamberline

Goldwork Embroidery: Designs & Projects
by Mary Brown

Bunnies in My Garden
by Jenny McWhinney

Eighteenth Century Embroidery Techniques
by Gail Marsh

A-Z of Whitework
Country Bumpkin Publications

Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery
Trish Burr

Embroidery Stitch Bible
Betty Barnden

Beginner's Guide to Silk Shading
Clare Hanham

Beginner's Guide to Crewel Embroidery
Jane Rainbow

Long and Short Stitch Embroidery, A Collection of Flowers
Trish Burr

Embroidery Techniques and Patterns
Marie-Noelle Bayard

Iron-On Transfers
Several Reviews in One Review

Mains et Merveilles
French Published Needlework Magazine

Schwalm Whitework Embroidery
Christine Bishop

A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery
Country Bumpkin Publications

Crewel and Surface Embroidery: Inspirational Floral Designs
Trish Burr

Stumpwork Embroidery
Jane Nicholas
19th Century Embroidery Techniques
Gail Marsh

Labels: beginner embroidery, book review, embroidery books, embroidery resources

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Free Hand Embroidery Patterns - Index

Do you want to embroider, but find it difficult to narrow down a pattern? Does pattern-design take up too much time for you? Are you always looking for new embroidery patterns to add to your library? Here are some favorite hand embroidery patterns - and they're free! Many of these come from out-of-print, old catalogs. They are in the "copyright free" category. I want to make them available to you so that you can enjoy creating beautiful embroidered goods.

I'll be updating the list as I get the graphics ready, so check back often! Add yourself to the site feed via e-mail or via feedreader, for easy notifications of updates.

Hand Embroidery Patterns (General Categories)

Monograms for Hand Embroidery - Free patterns for decorative initials from vintage publications

Ecclesiastical Embroidery Patterns Patterns for church-related embroidery.

Online Resources - links to sites with free embroidery patterns

Labels: free embroidery patterns

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Embroidery hoop or frame?

Depends on what you want to do and where you want to do it! There are lots of options out there - let's narrow some down...

A hoop is great for mobility. You can take one anywhere. I've found that the best hoops are wooden ones, with brass hardware that can be adjusted with a screwdriver. NOT the poorly-constructed hoops you find in the quilting section at sewing stores, though! Look for "Hardwick Manor" hoops (made in Germany of quality wood). They come in three thicknesses, and many sizes. I ordered mine through The Twining Thread, a great online shop with really good service. It isn't a "discount shop," but you'll find some really nice stuff there if you browse.

If you're just beginning to embroider, and aren't sure you want to make the investment in the more expensive accessories, start with a Susan Bates brand plastic hoop. You can order them from Joann's, or you can pick them up at your favorite fabric / craft store.

If you're working on something exceptionally fine - especially on any kind of expensive silk fabric or delicate fabrics that you aren't planning to wash - and you don't want hoop marks, you'll have to set your work up in a frame that can accommodate it. K's Creations make nice frames and stands. But the stand I love best I bought from Lacis You have to order the stand (adjustable floor stand) and the frame separate, but it's well worth the price.

So, to answer the question, I prefer hoops for the everyday stuff that I can easily move around. I prefer frames - scroll or "slate" frames - for the fine work that I don't want affected by hoop marks, and that I know I can't wash and iron.

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Thursday, June 15, 2006

A Favorite Spot - Learn basic embroidery stitches

Here's a favorite spot of mine where you can see, step-by-step, almost every embroidery stitch under the sun.

I don't know the lady personally, but I sure admire her website. She's obviously a talented fiber artist and an enthusiastic embroiderer. Her name is Sharon B (?), she's located in Australia (a great place for embroidery enthusiasts), and her website can be found here. Check out her stitch dictionary - it's the best I've ever seen online!

Enjoy!

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Hand embroidery - where to start?!?

If you're hooked on hand-embroidery and want to expand your techniques, you've come to the right spot!

If you're one of those people who've said to yourself, "Wow, I'd like to learn to do that," but aren't sure where to start - start here.

The point of this site is not to instruct the reader on every tiny nuance of embroidery. Rather, the point is to supply you with a resource base, and to discuss various techniques, pitfalls, troubleshooting, and all the joys and frustrations that come with hand embroidery.

To embroider, you really only need three things: fabric, needle, and thread (and, in some cases, you don't even need fabric - but more on that later).

The fiber-arts market is heavily laden with all kinds of enticing goodies, and if you're not careful, you'll end up making a massive investment in materials that you don't necessarily need. But perhaps that's half the fun of embroidery - the abundant sources of inspiration... and the fun accessories!

If you're like me and millions of others, though, all that inspiration stuff can lead to a closet full of unfinished projects, to bookshelves packed with books not quite what you had in mind, to a lack of storage space, to a lack of clear purpose, and perhaps even a disorganized mess.

So what do you want to do? Do you want to get started on basic embroidery? Do you want to learn how to make those beautiful old cutwork linens? You want to decorate your children's clothes? Your clothes? Do you want to adorn your house with fine linens and things? Do you want to make things to sell? Or perhaps market your own skills and become an instructor?

Bookmark Needle 'n Thread, and look for regular updates on resources, tips, techniques, and all kinds of ideas for the needleworker.

And do feel free to leave comments and suggestions for other readers and to join in with advice or whathaveyou!

See you soon!

Labels: miscellaneous embroidery musings

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Video Library of Stitches Long & Short Stitch Lessons Gallery: Posts with Pictures Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery Topic Index on Needle 'n Thread Needlework Books Online Embroidery Patterns Needlework Book Reviews Embroidery links - great resources!

Nordic Needle - Everything you need for Needlework!

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Friday, June 30, 2006

Embroider This! - What a Good Idea!

Thursday, June 29, 2006

Embroidery Design - Fleur de Lys Border

Basic Embroidery Stitches: Chain Stitches

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Basic Embroidery Stitches: Line Stitches

Goldwork - Good Resources

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Passion Flower - Embroidery Pattern

Monday, June 26, 2006

Hand Embroidery Patterns

Ecclesiastical & Church Embroidery Patterns

Saturday, June 24, 2006

Satin Stitch

Friday, June 23, 2006

Basic Embroidery Stitches

Thursday, June 22, 2006

Silk Thread - What's the difference?

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Embroidery Stitches - a book

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Filet Lace

Teaching Embroidery - The Art of Teaching Craft

Monday, June 19, 2006

Ribbon Embroidery & Stumpwork - Book Review

Whitework Embroidery - Inexpensive & Beautiful!

Sunday, June 18, 2006

The Embroiderer's Handbook

Do you embroider with knots? Want knot? Waste knot!

Saturday, June 17, 2006

Can I teach myself to embroider? Or should I join a group?

Cutwork, Filet Lace, and Needle Lace

Friday, June 16, 2006

Embroidery links - great sources!

Find Needlework (& Related) Supplies Online

Embroidery Informational Websites

Needlework Books

Free Hand Embroidery Patterns - Index

Embroidery hoop or frame?

Thursday, June 15, 2006

A Favorite Spot - Learn basic embroidery stitches

Hand embroidery - where to start?!?

The Editor's Floss

Embroidery Search Engine

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