Sunday, September 30, 2007

Another Jacobean Pattern: Single Flower & Leaves

For those of you who like crewel work and Jacobean embroidery, here's yet another little pattern.

I'm still trying to manipulate some images from Mary Thomas's Embroidery Book, and once I come upon "just the thing," I'll probably add a few personal touches. But I do like the single central flower.

Jacobean motif for hand embroidery


I like the flower on this one. I'd stitch the edges in stem stitch or split stitch, all the way around, then work the satin stitch deep edge on the petals over the split stitch.

The leaves would look great in long-and-short stitch shading. I don't have a video up yet for that stitch, but ... (I keep saying this!)... some day soon. It's a long one, and the editing has been a real bear. I'm just not a "pro" when it comes to this camera stuff!

Up the veins of the leaves, I'd work three converging rows of backstitch, bricked (that is, alternating the position of the stitches).

Have fun with it!

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Saturday, September 29, 2007

Free Embroidery Pattern: Playing with Jacobean Motifs

I've been messing around with Jacobean motifs for embroidery. The original design of this one is from Mary Thomas's Embroidery Book, which is no longer in print. I added some repeats, hoping to find a "corner" design for a small cloth.

So this is one of the embroidery patterns I'm playing with. I'm not so sure about it, but it would be fun to use for practice.

Jacobean Pattern for Hand Embroidery


You can click on the image above for a larger version, then right click on the larger version and save it to your computer. Using photo editing software or a copy machine, you can scale it up or down.

Ths stitches illustrated in the pattern are pretty basic: The outline can be worked in chain stitch or in split stitch. The dark oblong in the center is a good place for satin stitch, as well as the dark area on the right edge of each design. Stem stitch is used for the line that runs down the "vein" of the motif (inside), up to an area that can be worked in straight stitches. The accents in the motif (the individual stitches) on the back of the design are little single chains, or lazy daisy. Towards the front of the design are elongated French knots.

You could also add more repeats to the design, if you wanted to end up with, for example, a four-pointed "flower" or something similar. I was looking for three points, suitable for a corner, but you could build on this, spacing four or five around in a circle.

Right now, I have a renewed interest in Jacobean work and crewel embroidery because I just acquired a huge pile (huge!) of Appleton wools!

Appleton Wool for Jacobean embroidery


Have fun with it!

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Thursday, September 27, 2007

Embroidery Embellishment: The Charm of Charms, Buttons, and Beads

Have you noticed that there's a proliferation of embroidery kits and designs around that make use of little embellishments? Those special little touches that add "something" to the work - sometimes that something is zing, sometimes it's elegance, sometimes it's just a splash of fun - are pretty popular! I try not to be too narrow-minded in my view of embroidery, but I must be, because I never noticed the abundance of embellishments in the embroidery world until just this past summer.

But now I'm hooked. Really. I like these little extra baubles and buttons, beads and charms. Oh, they've been around a while - goldwork, sequins, beaded embroidery, charms, buttons... they're nothing new! But it seems to me that they are enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

This is what sold me on the fun of these little items and that opened up my eyes to noticing them around more and more:



It was these little Sweetheart Tree kits. They're small kits - counted thread techniques - with little extra embellishments to the kits. I don't generally work counted thread techniques, except in dabbling in a bit o' blackwork here and there, and - very rarely - some canvas work... and hardanger now and then, too. Ok, fine - I take it back, I do "do" counted thread stuff - but it's not usually cross stitch.

Normally, these would not be something that would catch my eye. But they did. Why? I think it's the little embellishments! Both kits make use of little tiny beads and one has little heart-shaped white buttons in it. I like them! It takes them "above ordinary."

I admit I'm SLOW - I'm sure little embellishments have been prevailant for a while in needlework - or perhaps they never lost their charm! Maybe I just haven't noticed them....

But NOW... check this out:



I do believe I could become an embroidery embellishment junkie!



Here's a sweet little seashell made by Susan Clarke Originals.



And a pretty little iris by the same company... Irises are among my favorite flowers, and I'm in the middle of embroidering one right now. So I just love this little thing!



A very pretty snowflake - perfect for.... well, earrings came to mind at first, but this is about embroidery, so I chased that thought away, and voila! a better one crept in - what about building a simple embroidered card around this for a Christmas card?



This is largish - quite large, compared to the other pieces here. At first, I thought "What in the world would I ever.....?!" and then the same thing happened. In crept a little thought. A "formal" garden border - maybe even in blackwork or a similar style - built around it. Why not? For a framed piece... I could see it!



Cherries! Who doesn't like cherries?! They remind me of summer - and this is another perfect little something for a crazy quilt square, for the center of an embroidered motif, or for the center of an embroidered card.



And here's a whole little group of "under the sea" embellishments.

OH - so many ideas, so little time!

This bunch of stuff above came in the embellishments Treasure Box I ordered last week from Twining Thread, as part of their close-out. Along with them came ribbons - glorious, beautiful ribbons - and all kinds of neat stuff. What a deal!

Well, if YOU have any ideas for my new embellishment stash, I'm all ears!

In the meantime, I need to go find some storage space....

PS - I'm going to full feeds for a bit on Feedburner. What think you? Do you prefer partial or full feeds?

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Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Free Redwork Embroidery Patterns and Books! A Great Find!

 
Patricia Cummings of Concord, New Hampshire, is certainly an expert on quilts. She has written numerous articles and books about quilts, their history, their care, adn their construction. Of primary concern here is that she has recently made available on her website several of her books for free, including a couple on redwork embroidery ---- with patterns!!

At Quilter's Muse, you will find all kinds of information on quilts! For needleworkers, you must check out Pat's books on redwork!

You'll find three redwork books on Quilter's Muse: Redwork Embroidery and Needlework Traditions in Europe and America, Just for Fun Redwork Book, and Emma's Quilt (with embroidery patterns for an antique quilt).

While you're browsing through Quilter's Muse (it's a great site for browsing!), check out the Redwork Index, where you'll find a magnificent redwork peacock design. It's really nice, and it's not limited to redwork - when I saw it, I started immediately thinking of adaptations!

If you're interested in textile history, be sure to check out Pat's section of historical articles, the List of Articles Related to Quilt History, Embroidery, History, and Literature. You'll find enough reading on there for weeks!

Finally, while perusing the site, don't miss the Photo Gallery of Embroidery.

Take some time to browse through Quilter's Muse - it really is a "virtual museum," and well worth a lingering visit!

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Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Free Embroidered Etui Pattern (Needle Book)

 
An "etui" is a small ornamented case that is used to hold needlework tools (needles, scissors, etc.) The name comes from the old French estui, meaning prison. Etuis come in all kinds of shapes, sizes, renditions... some are shaped like boxes, some are simple needlebooks with slots for scissors and maybe a little pocket for threads.

I stumbled upon a website called Giulia Punti Antichi, which is home to an Italian family who work together in the embroidery design business. Giulia has some beautiful stuff on her website! Much of it is counted thread techniques. She's designed some beautiful biscornu patterns, and some really lovely "etui" type projects.

Giulia also features some free patterns on her website. The one that caught my eye was the Assisi Swan etui.

Assisi Swan Etui Pattern in PDF


The Assisi Swan Etui from Giulia Punti Antichi is a pretty little Assisi work pattern for a book that holds needles and scissors. The design is in PDF format. The pattern is free and it includes finishing instructions.

Take a look around Giulia Punti Antichi - it's really a neat site full of all kinds of inspiring ideas! As a designer, her kits are for sale through different European retailers (I didn't see evidence of their being available in the States?), and in each kit's description, she indicates the retailer who sells it.

One other interesting note about her designs and her kit descriptions: she goes into detail about the things that inspire her in creating her designs - which is nice! You get a sense of the area of Italy she's from (Tuscany) and its beauties.

Keep in mind when looking at European embroidery retailers: the Euro is strong against the dollar. Right now, it costs us more than $1.40 to "purchase" one euro. And then there's shipping! So it may be better to find out if she has a distributor in the States... (I didn't find one! If you do, let us know!)

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Monday, September 24, 2007

Needlepainting Project Complete: Peony-type Dahlia

 
Oh wow! This embroidery project was fun! I finished it Saturday, which means it took me less than a week to get 'er done, embroidering in little snatches here and there between work and whatnot.

This is the peony-type dahlia needlepainting kit from Tanja Berlin. If you've never seen her work or checked out berlinembroidery.com (her website), do take a look. I think kits like this are a great way to polish your skill in a certain technique. Not only does Tanja offer the needlepainting kits (which are really gorgeous), but she also offers kits in whitework, blackwork, Jacobean (traditional and modern), goldwork, shadow work, and appliqué.

I've worked a few of her kits before, particularly a couple birds - I put photos of the Red Poll embroidery kit online, but unfortunately didn't photograph the other one -- but that's ok. I've got another one of her birds to do before November (for a Christmas present). Come to think of it, I have her iris kit and her squirrel kit, too.... and two more birds, the wren and ... ? another one. I had planned on making those "fun" summer embroidery projects, but the summer was just way too hectic!! Now that school is underway, I find I need "little" manageable projects if I want to keep plying the needle, so these are perfect.

Anyway, back to the flower....



Here's a close up of the stalk. The colors in the kit are a little darker than the colors in the photo that comes with the kit, but I LIKE the darker colors better!



This is the left bud...



And this is the right bud. There's something amiss on the top, right side in the back - that satin-stitched dark green leaf is not quite right. It's not so noticeable farther away!



Here's the center of the flower. The dark background is made up of French knots, crowded together. The yellow stamens are elongated French knots, or pistol stitch. I kept the wraps rather loose, as I wanted the circles of the French knot at the end of the pistol stitch to show up. If I kept them tight, I found they sunk into the design too much.



This is a close-up of the front petal that was kind of crumpled. After I embroidered it the second time... I liked it better!!



And this is the whole thing. Yes, there are a couple spots that are a bit too "stitchy" looking, but overall, I like the little fellow!

I'm ready to move on to the next "little" project.... ??? I'm not sure what it will be yet... I was thinking about fiddling with a few goldwork techniques before starting up another of these kits. I'm in the mood for couching!

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Saturday, September 22, 2007

Ecclesiastical Embroidery Example: Mantle of the Virgin

 
In the 15th century, a goldwork technique known as Or Nué reflected the great skill of the medieval embroiderer. I recently received an e-mail from a friend with a photo of an exquisite example of this technique.

This is from the "Mantle of the Virgin," a cope embroidered apparently in the Netherlands in the 15th century. It belongs to a group of vestments embroidered for the Order of the Golden Fleece, a chivalric order founded in 1430.



This is "needle painting" at it's most glorious - it is worked over gold threads, the shading managed by the spacing between the couching stitches over the gold. The cope is, from what I understand (although I'm certainly open to correction!), linen, completely covered in metal thread and silk embroidery in a variety of techniques. The design was actually first painted by an artist onto the fabric, and then turned over to an embroiderer or a guild for the needleworking.

You can read about Or Nué on the Historical Needlework Resources website, where they also display a fantastic example of the technique.

If you want to try the technique yourself, you can check out this information on how to work Or Nué. It's merely a written explanation, but there are a few rough diagrams to give you the idea.

And, if you want to try the technique without the investment of "real" gold threads, you can practice with the numerous "gold" threads available at hobby stores, notably those produced by Kreinik. They're fairly inexpensive, and it would at least give you a sense of how Or Nué is accomplished. Heck, I've even played around with the technique using regular cotton perle as my laid thread - it works! The perle obviously has more give than metal threads, so the tension on the couching thread has to be pretty light. It's a really inexpensive and fun way to see if you like the technique.

To see how couching works, check out my couching video in the Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches.

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Litany of Loreto Embroideries

 
The Embroiderers' Guild in the UK publishes a magazine called Stitch. They have a good website with a lot of information on it, among which are some "sample articles" from Stitch Magazine in PDF format. The one article that caught my eye and set me exploring was the article on the Litany of Loreto Embroideries.

According to the article on the Stitch website about the Litany of Loreto Embroideries (PDF), their history is rather vague. One thing is certain, just by looking at them - they are definitely influenced by the romanticism of the pre-Raphaelites.

Litany of Loreto Embroideries: Mirror of Justice


The embroidered panels are worked in long-and-short stitch in muted shades, with metal threads used for accents.

While the style of art reminds me of the pre-Raphaelites, overall, I can't help comparing the embroideries with the art of William Bouguereau in particular. Take a look:

William Bouguereau Virgin with Angels


Perhaps it's just the throne that makes me think of that particular artist - but I think it's also the motif on the gown in the embroidery and the motif on the throne. The lines in the embroidery are not as "soft" as those in Bouguereau's painting, but it reminds me of him, nevertheless. It also reminds me of the Beuronese style of art, which I mentioned when speaking of the samples of ecclesiastical embroidery at the Convent in Clyde, MO. The trees in the background and the clean lines are all rather Beuronese-ish.

Litany of Loreto Embroideries: Mother Undefiled


This is another one of the embroideries. In all, there are 12 of the panels. It would have been something to see every title from the Litany of Loreto worked in embroidery - there are around 50. What a project! The Royal School of Needlework sells a pamphlet on the embroideries, if you're interested in seeing them all.

I have a pretty keen interest in ecclesiastical embroidery, so the article on the Stitch Magazine website was the first to catch my eye. There are other articles on there for the enthusiast - another historical one concentrates on the Bayeux Stitch. The article, Bayeux Stitch Ancient and Modern (PDF), shows the reader how to work the stitch and how it can be interpreted. It's pretty neat - check it out!

You can find these articles and more at Stitch Magazine online. While you're there, you might want to check out their projects page, where you'll find all sorts of inspiring photos of projects, and their stitch page, where you will find illustrations of a heap of embroidery stitches. On their In Focus page, you'll find a terrific index of the pieces housed at their museum.

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Friday, September 21, 2007

Needle Painting Update: Flower Coming Along, but...

 
I thought I'd share some photos of the little needle painting project I'm currently working on.

This is an embroidery kit from Tanja Berlin, and she has it listed as advanced techniques - it's helpful if you have already done a little bit of this technique. I like working on it. In fact, it's striking me like a really good book does - I can't stand to put it down, and when I'm not at it, I'm thinking about it. Weird.

Anyway, here we are:



Overall, it isn't "bad," and in fact, I do like it a lot. But there's definitely a problem. Can you see it? What strikes you as somewhat "off" in the photo? Ok, wait. You're not allowed to say that the light is too light, and there's too much contrast - whoops. That's a camera problem. Bad lighting right now, as it's dark out and an Ott light never gives me good light for photos!

So you don't have to look too closely to see the problem...



It's that front petal on top. It's crumpled looking - and it doesn't look natural at all. My stitch direction is not as it should be, and my outside edge of stitches (the light ones) are too short is some places... and, then on top of it, I worked the medium too far into the light, up by the edge. SOOOO.... I'm going to pick out that petal.

I cheated in a couple places. And I found a couple parts of the design more challenging than the rest of it:



The "turned" petal (to the left of the one that is malformed) was difficult, insofar as there is only a very narrow space on the inside of the petal for working the long and short stitch in two shades. I cheated. I worked the two shades, but the back inside of the petal just didn't stand out enough. So I outline stitched a teeny line in the white, to make the petal stand out from the background a little more. I'm not sure if I like that. I have to think about it.

The next turned petal (continuing clockwise up the flower) was also difficult.... I'm still thinking about it, too. I don't think I'll unpick those two petals, but I will definitely take out the front "malformed" little guy and rework him.

The other thing: I don't think there are supposed to be those "voided" lines down the center of each flower petal, which end up looking kind of like a central spine or vein. I was thinking wrong when I did the first few petals, working in the same technique I've been using on my silk sampler. So I didn't really pay attention, and the next thing I knew, all my flower petals had definite veins. I don't think it detracts, so I'm leaving them like that. I actually kind of like it, because it makes one side of the petal stand out more than the other, especially if you turn it in the light. But then, if I frame this, who's going to be turning it in the light?

I won't think about that.

One more point: I find myself being really cheap with the light thread as I'm working. In Tanja's color photo of the peony-type dahlia, she uses a lot more light thread. For one thing, the kit didn't come with "a lot" of the lighter color, so I'm stingy with it. For another, it's one of the few Anchor colors in the kit (they're mostly DMC), so I know if I have to get more, I'm going to have to order it online, which would be a real bummer, so... I'm rather sparing with it. I've got a couple more "whole" strands (which will be stripped into individual strands). It is probably enough, but if I had used a lot more of the light color, I think I'd be running short!

Well, this is a good learning exercise. I really want to fine-tune the needlepainting skill, so these kits are good practice. It's a great learning experience and I'm having a blast with this kit!

What d'ya think of it? Any words of advice - I'm all ears!

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Thursday, September 20, 2007

Embroidery Book Review: 18th Century Embroidery Techniques

 
Here's a nice book to have in your library of needlework books, especially if you are interested in historic embroidery, costuming, fashion and textiles, or even ecclesiastical embroidery. Even if you're not too interested in the above "genres" related to embroidery, anyone passionate about needlework will probably like this book.

18th Century Embroidery Techniques is written by Gail Marsh and published by Guild of Master Craftsman Publications, first in 2006 and then reprinted in 2007.

18th Century Embroidery Techniques by Gail Marsh


What intrigues me most about the book, which I purchased recently and have only now had a chance to give it a brief look, is that it focuses on the embroidery of clothing. Not too many of us take a lot of time to embellish our wardrobes, and even if we do, no one does it to the extent that it was done in the 1700's for those who could afford it. It's not so much the subject of the clothing that grabs me - it's the answer to that ever-present question that haunts when I visit museums or see certain elaborately embellished textiles... "Hmm...now, just how did they do that?" I'm the type who would like to get behind the glass, touch the stuff, and even "pick at it" a bit to see exactly how it was put together!!

Gail Marsh outlines quite clearly how embroidery on textiles was accomplished. She gives you the directions to do it yourself, if you really wanted to! There are heaps of color photos of museum pieces throughout the book, as well as line drawings of various types of fashion from this time period.

Within the book you'll also find line drawings of the designs used on the clothing so that, if you were game, you could certainly adapt them into patterns for your own use.

Obviously, this is great stuff for the costumer and the textile or fashion student. But for the every-day home-hobby embroiderer, it's still a great opportunity to have access to some really exquisite patterns that can be used as is, or even adapted and simplified.

As for the techniques in the book - right off the bat, I opened the book and my eyes fell upon the section devoted to embroidery on velvet. What could be richer than silk threads on velvet, or goldwork on velvet? But when embroidering on velvet, the embroiderer faces the problem of pile: stitches (especially for silk work) sink into the pile, and may be lost. Gail tells you how this was avoided - by using silk gauze, which was torn or cut away after the embroidery was complete. And she goes into the various details of using silk gauze or paper or anything else underneath stitches to keep them from getting lost in the pile of the fabric. Useful information!

She also includes interesting, readable stuff - this isn't a dry and boring technique book or history book (ok, admittedly, I generally don't find technique or history books boring!) but this one has some neat little lumpets of "curious" information in it.... for example:

On page 39, there's a little blurb on "drizzling, parfilage, or ravelling." This was the practice of snipping off gold threads from clothing or uniforms, separating the gold from the silk core, and hoarding it, to eventually have it weighed and sold to a gold dealer. It was a "hobby of the rich," and not performed merely on worn-out clothing. Women would even carry around with them a small bag of tools so that they could engage in their hobby during theater performances, unbeknownst to the wearer who was engrossed in the play, or during parties! "Excuse me, my dear, while I snip off your embellishment..."??? Pretty funny! She makes the statement that "it is a wonder that there is any 18th-century metal thread embroidery left for us to admire today," given this fashion for picking it apart and selling it.

So the book is pretty interesting and entertaining!

If you're looking for a Christmas present for someone who likes historical textiles, this would probably make a good one! I'd also classify it under "interesting coffee-table books." It's less than $18 through Amazon.


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Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Needlework Shop News - Farewell to Twining Thread!

 
The Twining Thread has been my absolute favorite online needlework shop, but, sadly, the shop is closing. It was a great shop! Not only did Joey, the owner, stock a wonderful supply of quality merchandise that reflected excellent taste in needlework and marvelous variety, but the service was the best, bar none.

I never visited the store in person - I wish I could have! The photos of the place were endearing - a cozy needlework shop, with tables and chairs and lots and lots of colorful fibers, canvases, displays, trinkets... all those things that the embroidery enthusiast loves!

Though I never saw the brick and mortar store, I am convinced it was the perfect example of what a needlework shop should be - good service, fair prices, and a super stock to choose from!

Right now, Twining Thread is clearing out inventory. Joey says they still have plenty of good merchandise left! What they are doing is making up "treasure boxes" in different categories of needlework: counted thread, mostly fibers, embellishments, crewel, and needlepoint. The treasure boxes are only $60 each, but they contain at least (and sometimes over!) $200 (retail) in merchandise. Each treasure box is unique, so whether you order just one, or more than one, you'll end up with a real variety. Shipping is free.

This is a great deal for stitchers! As she put it on her site, think Christmas presents, special occasions, or even re-selling on eBay. (Re-selling on eBay??!! Not a chance!!) As for me, I ordered several, and I can't wait to get them! I feel like a 5-year-old waiting for her birthday.

As great a deal as it is, I'll be sorry to see the Twining Thread go. It was a "comfortable fit" for me for several years, and it will probably take a while to track down the new "perfect supplier."

Thanks, Joey, for being a super supplier, and best of luck in the future!

They're thinking of closing the online store by Oct. 14th, so you best hurry if you're interested in the Treasure Boxes! But be nice - there's only of her, and it's probably a pretty busy job right now! (And I'd hate to think I sent her a swarm of customers that ran her ragged!!!).... actually, it's such a good deal, and such a fun way of doing it - I love the whole Treasure Box idea. I'm trying to refrain from MORE. Aaaaackkk.....

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Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Embroidery Designer Spotlight: Jenny McWhinney

 
Jenny McWhinney is a needlework designer who specializes in thread painting techniques. Her work is often featured in Inspirations Magazine, which is where I became acquainted with her.

Her needle painting (or thread painting) techniques showcase Beatrix-Potter-type illustrations: mostly animals, which, by some, may be considered "juvenile" in their portrayals. If I were to think of a word that summarizes her work, I'd call it "charming."

Jenny McWhinney Designs


Her designs are perfect for anything related to children - blankets, quilts, wall-hangings, pillows - all those things you might use to deck out a child's room, or that would make a perfect gift.

This isn't to say that they are all "children's" designs. Her camels, for example, are featured on children's blankets, but who says they wouldn't look great on any wall in any home? They are intricate and really beautiful.

Thread Painted Camel by Jenny McWhinney


And, at the same time, they seem to have a sense of humor! When I look at Jenny's work, I can't help smiling!

Her "Monet the Mouse" books (little embroidered books that are truly gems!) are featured in a few different issues of Inspirations. In a little behind the scenes article, Jenny explains where she gets her inspiration for these projects and more. It's worth reading - it's nice to get a sense of the personality behind the designer.

Jenny's also got a book out, called "Thread Painting: Bunnies in my Garden." If you're in the US, you can find it on Amazon and save on shipping!

Now, why the renewed attraction to Jenny McWhinney's designs right now? I'm perusing all kinds of possibilities for a guild project, and I think her work would be great to incorporate into a quilt for raffling! The possibility of incorporating one or two of her Monet books into a couple quilts is not original! I think it's a great idea. But we'll see...!


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Monday, September 17, 2007

Embroidery Tools: The Best Laying Tool

 
A laying tool is a smooth, usually sharp tool used in embroidery to help you lay the threads so that they are smooth and parallel to each other, without twisting. It's a handy tool for any type of embroidery, but I think it's especially necessary when working with flat silk.

A laying tool can be used, though, with any kind of embroidery thread - even your every-day stranded cotton. If you're using more than one thread of stranded cotton, the laying tool will help ensure that you get smooth coverage and no "overlapping."

I've tried several different types of laying tools - and they do come in all kinds! My favorite one is Shay Pendrays "Best Laying Tool."



There are two things I like about it: it's perfect smoothness and it's sharp point. It doubles as a great little stiletto to enlarge holes while doing goldwork (for plunging your threads) or while doing whitework (for creating nice little eyelets). The square end of the BLT helps you maintain a firm hold on it so it doesn't turn in your fingers as you're using it - or so you can control the turning better, if you like to turn your laying tool when you use it.

Here's an article on how to use a laying tool. Included are photos of stitches made with one and without one so that you can see the difference between using one and not using one! It does take extra time to use one, and, to be quite frank, I don't use one often - but when I need to ensure that my threads are perfectly flat, it's the best way to accomplish that.

You can find the Best Laying Tool at Nordic Needle, if they don't sell them in your local embroidery shop. They run about $17.00.

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Sunday, September 16, 2007

Needle Painting Again - A New Little Project

 
If you've looked about on Needle'NThread, you've probably noticed I like needlepainting techniques. I'm no pro, but I find that if I take advantage of the expertise of certain designers, I learn a little bit more with each project and the whole technique isn't daunting at all.

Tanja Berlin is certainly a favorite. I've worked a couple of her kits, including this little needle painted bird, and I've got a couple more waiting to tackle. I thought, in fact, that three of them - two birds and the current flower I'm working on, if framed to match, would make a nice Christmas present for my folks. So that's my plan.

I'm working on the Peony-type Dahlia from Berlin Embroidery Designs right now. I'm going to follow it up with the Robin on a Berry Branch, if time allows.

So, here's the beginning of the dahlia:



Actually, that's not a very impressive photo. I just took the shot so you could see the concept of the stretcher-bar frames, which I elaborated upon when telling you about one of those handy-dandy gotta-have embroidery tools, the EZ Tack-it Kit.



Here's the photo of the kit, and the buds underway in the background. One thing I did absolutely notice in this particular kit of Tanja's is that the greens on the cover photo of the kit and the greens inside the kit (the actual color of the floss provided) do not really correspond. The floss is much darker, and the contrast between the shades of green is not as obvious. Still, it looks good.



And here they are up close.

So that's what I'm working on casually. My silk work sampler is still getting attention, though I still have an ugly mistake to pick out. I'm just not in the mood for that this weekend, though!

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Saturday, September 15, 2007

Some Great Finds in Needlework Books

 
Each year, the Topeka (Kansas) public library has a "Friends of the Library" book sale that lasts for three days. It's worth the trip, on the opening night, to go before the books get picked over! I like to pick up needlework books, if any good ones are available.

This year, I couldn't make the trip in, but my sister and a friend did, and they both kept me in mind, picking up some great "new" (old) needlework books that have been fun to peruse and that I'm happy to add to my library... and, averaging about 50 cents each, it's not as if you could go wrong picking them up!



An excellent find was Mary Thomas's Embroidery Book - an excellent reference on all kinds of embroidery techniques. It's not to be confused with her stitch dictionary! I'd be interested to see if it's still in copyright, or if it's available online. The copyright date on this one is 1936.

A pretty neat Better Homes and Gardens book (titled "Embroidery") has a bunch of nice projects in it - some very classic, while some are typical of the 1970's, when it was published. So, there's some interesting "retro" stuff in there, and some nice folk embroidery.

There's a great book on bead and sequin embroidery, by Stanley Levy. It's got some really gorgeous stuff in it!

Another book - not properly "embroidery" but a mixture of all Irish crafts - called "Irish Hands" promises to be a nice browsing book. It's got some gorgeous photos of Irish lace in it.

Then there's a book of floral patterns for needlecraft & the decorative arts, by Karen Oleson - some nice line drawings of flowers and such that can be used for surface embroidery.

Another 50-cent-find was the Margaret Boyles Book of Needle Art. Probably it won't be a favorite, but it's got some good stuff in it.

And then - the laugh - Church Embroidery and Church Vestments, by Lucy Vaughan Hayden Mackrille! This book haunts me. I do consider it one of the best books on ecclesiastical needlework. This particular copy was published in 1939 (second edition), and it is in perfect shape, with perhaps just a little rubbing on the corners of the boards - the tiniest bit. Really, a beautiful book. The deep blue cover, the gold lettering - all very nice. What cracks me up is that, here it is, at a library book sale. I mentioned this particular book earlier, and, yes, it's supposedly hard to find. I paid $100 for it several years ago, when I found a good copy online through a trusted rare books dealer. Guess how much last night? .... Right. Another 50-cent-find!

Well, it's a jolly Saturday - I love books!

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Thursday, September 13, 2007

Needlework Stash - Learn from My Mistakes!

 
Stash, glorious stash! If you dabble in needlework as a hobby or even as a "serious" pursuit, chances are, you've built a stash. That's a great part of the fun of needlework - setting in your supplies! It's also a part of the creative process - exploring new items, seeing how you can integrate them into your techniques, or just plain playing around with "stuff" because it looks fun! I love stash! But it has its downsides...

An obvious downside of stashing a lot of stuff is organization. Organization of supplies is a huge topic, and since most people have their own approach, it's kind of hard to go into it thoroughly. Suffice it to say, if you're going to invest in "stash," you should develop a system to keep it organized, so that you know what you have and can access it when you want it.

Another downside is that you can end up spending a lot of money, often unnecessarily, simply because something catches your eye. Oh golly. I've done that a lot. You can regulate this by setting up a "budget" for your hobbies. In your regular budget, make a little concession for your hobbies, and add to it a little at a time as you can. Then, when you have the opportunity for one of those "fun days out," when you go visit a favorite store (or even a website!), or you go explore a new store, you know how much you can spend and you are cautious about what you buy. Set your limits and don't go beyond them. Think of things you know you want or that you'll really use, and try not to get distracted by Peripheral Stuff. Avoid impulse buying, just for the sake of buying! You'll feel better later about your superior sense of self-control, and you'll avoid "buyer's remorse"!

All that having been said, I thought I'd share some photos of goods I added to my stash this past summer when I had the opportunity to visit a few needlework shops I had never been to. I'll also share with you a couple of observations and one big mistake!



Here's the general colorful pile. You can note the things in the pile that are typical of me, if you've read my website: silk floss (soie d'alger) in a couple colors I like and will use and some Caron Collections waterlilies (silk) and watercolors (cotton). There's also, in the far background, barely visible, some little white cotton lace trim, perfect for linens. Ribbons, ric-rac, and a big blob of Sari Silk yarn.... some of these were definitely impulse items, and one was just plain a big mistake!



The Sari Silk yarn was actually not a mistake - when I came across it at one shop, I was delighted, because I've wanted to play around with it for a while, but the one time I had tried to place an order for it, the place was out of it. So here it was in person, I could touch it, examine it up close, and consider seriously whether or not the $14.00 was worth it. I thought, in the long-run, it would be - if not for me, for one of my nieces who crochets or one who knits, or even for my mom. Is it suitable for embroidery? Well, I want to see how it couches, just out of curiosity. So I will do that someday!



These are Rajmahal Art Silks. I've never actually worked with this thread, but I've always wanted to. It's from Australia, in fact, and it isn't silk! When I came across it that fateful day, I was already familiar with what it is, and in fact, I had one skein on hand, and I figured this was a good opportunity to expand to a few, so that I could give them a good test.

This particular shop experience was one of "those" experiences. You can always tell what store clerks know or don't know about embroidery by certain things they say. In this particularly fine store, which focuses more on "unique" supplies, antique ribbons, and various antique needlework items - a beautiful and rather ritzy store - the clerk greeted us at the door with the "warm" enthusiasm of someone who would not mind taking the time showing us around, if she had to! She was dressed sleekly, in a skilled imitation of "haute couture" fashion. I was duly impressed and let her show me around, although I pretty much knew where my interests lay once I walked in. I asked if she were the owner - no, no. But she and the owner, she told me, are both artists - textile artists, actually. She pointed out several of the focal points of the shop, including antique buttons and beads, antique ribbons, "modern" ribbons, some fun trims, and whatnot. I wanted to take a closer look at the real antiques they had on display - a beautiful shawl all worked over in goldwork, and a fantastic Victorian crazy quilt behind glass, covered in gorgeous stitchery - and many other items of delectable interest! I asked if I could take pictures of the shop, and it was the first retail place where I'd ever been told "no." (Next time, I'll contact them in advance and speak to the owner instead of the clerk!)

Then, as she warmed up a bit and realized that I wasn't there to pilfer the shop or to ask "stupid questions," she asked me if I was a textile artist. Textile artist is a strange phrase - I wouldn't use it to describe me at all, because it's far to professional and polished, (especially when you're in a store like that!), and none of my degrees are in the study of textiles by a long stretch!
"No, I just dabble in embroidery," said I. "I'm particularly interested in goldwork."
"Oh," was her rather non-committal reply.
"That's why I wanted to take a photo of that shawl."
"What shawl?"
"The goldwork shawl?"
"I'm not exactly sure what you mean by goldwork."
So I explained. "I've never really heard of goldwork. I'm sure Gretchen has." (Apparently, the shop owner...)
Then I mentioned I like working with silk. "OOOHHH - we have some marvelous silk thread here." And she showed me .... the Rajmahal. "It's so nice. We use it for all our needlework. We love silk. And Gretchen swears by this brand because of the sheen." [I was chuckling internally by this time]... "Natural silk," she continued to explain, "has the highest sheen."
I was in awe of her knowledge. I showed my approval by selecting the three colors above, and by agreeing with her that the thread had an extraordinary sheen. Considering there were a few other folks in the shop, I didn't want to... you know, put her on the spot!

Then I went on to look at the various ribbons, and this is where I made My Big Mistake! And this is what I get for feeling so SMUG about the "natural" silk!



I explored the various typical but darling tiny ric-racs and trims, and bought a few of those, and I picked up a couple yards of the above trim, only because it was different and rather neat. I could see it used to trim out a little something at some point.

And then I saw this stuff:



Isn't it pretty? It really is pretty! I could see it trimming out a collar on a little girl's dress or blouse. And I fell in love with it. I'm not super "up" on ribbon, types of ribbon, and whatnot. I saw it, saw that it was beautiful, and wanted some. I glanced (key word - glanced) at the casing, on which I saw marked $1.10. I had just bought some $.80/yard ric-rac, some $1.00 / yard other stuff, and even, yes, some $2.50 / yard other stuff. So I saw that, and I thought, "Wow, it's so pretty - and so inexpensive!"



The whole ribbon is actually a composite of little ribbon pieces, put together very attractively so that they look like flowers and bows.



You can buy all the separate types of ribbon, actually, and make up your own composite ribbon, if you're game for it!

This specialty ribbon, I've since learned, is Mokuba ribbon. Mokuba is a company name synonymous with high quality trims in the fashion world. I might know my silk, but I don't know my ribbon!

I decided on a yard, of course - why not? And it also came in violet - so a yard of that, too. While the clerk cut the first yard (working behind the sign that clearly read, "All cuts final"), I continued to explore. She asked how much of the violet flowered trim I wanted. "Oh, a yard is fine." She hesitated. I wondered. She measured it out. And then she said (God bless her!) "Are you sure?" I suddenly figured it out. "How much is it?" I asked. "It's $1.10 an inch."

Oh well. I swallowed my pride. I declined the violet, but in all fairness, paid for the coral flowered trim, because, after all, all cuts were final. She was just doing her job - and she did save me from a SECOND $40 mistake. She explained that most "clients" didn't purchase even a yard at a time. Well, heck -- if you're not buying a yard of ribbon, what could you possibly be using it for??? I know, I know - little things.

As I checked out, trying not to visibly wince, I did manage to mention that Rajmahal is actually viscose - as it says on the tag - and not silk. But I did concede that it does indeed have an exceptional sheen!

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Monday, September 10, 2007

Embroidery Mistake - YUCK!

 
If you've been keeping up with the silk work sampler I'm ever-so-slowly working on, you might want to see my latest addition, which I don't like, and which is coming out at the next opportunity!

I finished the leaf worked in split stitch (it's the one on the right) and decided to launch into the third flower.

One drawback was that the stitches were supposed to run horizontal in each petal, towards the center line down the petal to create a "voided" meeting area. Well, I figured to get the full effect of the void, if the stitches met anywhere else, you really wouldn't notice the voided line down the middle - or it would end up looking too sectioned off.

So I thought I'd just change the tones of red as I worked down the petal, creating horizontal layers of color, and forgetting about the "shape" of the color (rounded arches of color in each petal.)

And so I set about to do that, and this is the result:



I don't like it one tiny bit. If the color change were more gradual, it probably wouldn't be that bad. But in order to get a gradual color change, I'd have to split the Japanese silk and work in a few strands of the lighter shade as I worked down. Um... I've done that before, with the sky in my Agnus Dei.... it takes a bit o' time, if nothing else. I don't want this project to be frustrating, because I'm afraid if it reaches a high frustration level, no one will finish it!

The other problem is that the straight horizontal lines, when worked around the circle of the flower, would really look angular, which wouldn't really match with the rest of the sampler.

So I'm going to pick that silly looking petal out and go back to the arched color changes.

You may wonder why it's a big deal to go horizontal on this flower, when we worked the other one vertical. Well, it's a matter of seeing how the light catches on the stitches, depending on the type of stitch and the direction of stitch.

For example, you can see a difference between the two leaves - yes, they're the same colors, but they look slightly different, because the light plays off of them differently. The one on the right is worked in small split stitches while the one on the left is worked in longer long-and-short stitch.

Well, when I get around to picking the thing out and re-attempting it, I'll let you know how the alternative works. In the meantime, I seem to have contracted the Creepy Crawly Crud (sinus / bronchial stuff), so embroidery's not on my list of priorities - actually, the only thing on my list is BED!

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Sunday, September 09, 2007

Tools for Embroidery - Here's a Good One!

 
If you're relatively serious about embroidery, you probably have a good selection of favorite tools on hand - those things beyond needle, scissors, and hoop. Here's one of my favorite tool investments - and it doesn't cost much!

The EZ Tack-It kit is quite handy to have - so much so, that I have two kits! I came across another one while I was shopping a few months ago, and bought it to keep on hand for our guild.



The EZ Tack-It is used to assist you in setting up embroidery projects on stretcher bar frames. Unlike scroll frames and slate frames, on stretcher bar frames, you tack your fabric all around the edges. Stretcher bars provide excellent tension, and, in my opinion, are quicker to set up than a slate frame.

So this is how it works: you assemble the four sides of your stretcher bar frame. If you aren't familiar with these things, they come in packs of two sides in a given length, and you can assemble a four-sided frame by buying two packs that will accommodate the dimensions of your project. You can find them in Michael's in the needlework section, and you can also buy them at many specialty needlework shops. Online, you can find them at different embroidery shops, like Needle in a Haystack. They're pretty inexpensive ($2.00 - 3.00 / pair). Don't confuse them with canvas stretcher frames, which are much wider than these! But - well, to be honest, I've used the canvas stretchers, too. You can find those in the art department of hobby stores. They aren't as nice as the embroidery stretcher bars, and you do end up "wasting" a bit of room on your fabric, because the frame itself is a good inch or so wider than the embroidery stretcher bar frames.

Anyway, back to the Tack-It. You've got your frame assembled, and you've got the fabric for your project ready. I always suggest pre-shrinking if you need to. You want to know where the middle of the top (horizontal) side of your fabric is, and this is where you start tacking - in the middle of the top edge of your fabric. You pick up a tack with the magnetic tack pusher (that's the big round red thing in the kit), and you insert it into your frame in the middle of the top bar. You can insert the tacks either on the back of the bar, or the very top of the bar. It's better not to insert them on the side of the bar facing you (if you've got your frame laying on a table, I'm talking about the side of the bar facing the ceiling), because you may get frustrated by threads catching on the tacks as you embroider. I prefer the side of the bar "around the corner" from this - the outside edge of the frame.

So you tack your fabric from the center to the outside, then you go back to the center and continue across your fabric to the other outside edge of the frame. Each of the tacks should be placed about half an inch to an inch apart on the frame. Then you move to the opposite side of the frame, doing the same thing. You want to pull the fabric taut as you tack the second side, but you're not going to get drum-tight tension, since you're only working on the second side. Then you move to the third side and repeate the process, pulling your fabric to keep it taut and even. Be careful, though! You don't want to warp your fabric. Just pull tight enough to establish good tension.

When you do the fourth side, you end up with drum-tight tension. A frame mounted like this will keep good tension for a long time. I've been working on my silk work sampler, for example, for almost four months, and the tension is still perfect. When I worked the Agnus Dei piece, I never had to readjust or fix the tension of the fabric.

The Tack-It kit makes it really easy to push the tacks into the frame. The handle of the magnetic tack pusher fits in the palm of your hand, to give you good, even distribution when pushing the tacks in. The magnetic tip keeps the tacks in place while you're working with them. And the extractor makes it easy to pull out tacks if you need to. Best of all, because your tension is good, you are not likely to end up with puckers in your fabric when you remove it from the frame.

I store my Tack-It kit in a jar, with an abundance of extra tacks. The kit comes with 60 steel-topped tacks, which is enough for at least one large-ish project. Since I generally will have more than one project going at a time, I have extra tacks - I just bought regular "brass" thumb tacks from the hardware store. They work fine.

You can find the EZ Tack-It kit online at several places, Lacis being one (in California). In Canada, Tanja Berlin carries them. In the States, they run $10 for the kit.

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Friday, September 07, 2007

The Right Embroidery Needle - Good Reference Chart

 
Following up on the information about Colonial Needle - a great place to order your embroidery needles - it may be useful to have access to a good reference chart that describes the various needles used in hand embroidery and even gives photos of them (I love photos!).

Country Bumpkin has a really good embroidery needle reference chart on their website. What I like about it over other charts is that it gives the reader all the information you need to choose the correct needle: types, uses, sizes available, and (unlike other charts I've seen) the types of threads or the numbers of strands to use with the different sizes of needles.

Once you decide what needles you'd like to have on hand (the ideal is to have access to several different types and sizes in your sewing basket), check out Colonial Needle, which is a great place in the US to buy a wide variety of fine needles.

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Thursday, September 06, 2007

Silk Work Embroidery Sampler - an Update

 
During the summer, our adult embroidery group began a silk work embroidery sampler. We started from absolute "scratch." We traced our designs, pricked them, mounted the linen on frames, and then pounced the designs, tracing over the pounced lines with watercolor paint. We meet just once a week, so our progress is relatively slow!

I thought I'd share a few photos of the second flower, which is worked in flat silk in satin stitch, and the second leaf, which is worked in twisted silk in split stitch.

Silk Work Embroidery Sampler


Here's a view of what I've completed so far. It isn't much! The threads I'm using are Au Ver a Soie, Soie d'Alger for the twisted silk (one strand), and flat silk from the Japanese Embroidery Center. The colors are not a perfect match, but they are at least complementary. I would have preferred a perfect match!

Silk Work Embroidery Sampler


This is a close up on the flower in the flat silk. It has a much higher sheen than the twisted silk! The satin stitch is used to fill in each gradation in color. The outline of each petal (and also the line between each color) is worked in stem stitch.

Silk Work Embroidery Sampler


Here's the second leaf, which is worked in llines of split stitch. The color blend is greated by "dove-tailing" the lines of split stitch, so that the edge of each finished row of color resembles the edge of a finished row of long and short stitch. This way, the colors work into each other gradually and blend better.

Silk Work Embroidery Sampler


Here's a close up on the finished half of the leaf. You can see how the split stitched lines work into each other. In fact, it's hard to follow one complete line of split stitch in the picture. They're a bit crowded, actually.

Silk Work Embroidery Sampler


And here you can see how the lines are kind of "dove-tailed" so that the next color will blend in with them.

So that's as far as I've gotten! I'm pretty determined to finish it.... before Christmas!

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Wednesday, September 05, 2007

Display of Summer Embroidery Projects

 
This past weekend, the summer embroidery projects from my kids' embroidery classes were displayed at a fall festival. I thought I'd share a few photos, and then call that whole episode done, since the school year is now (!) underway.

I made a couple posters for the display and then laid out the embroidery projects across the table. Unfortunately, many of the girls didn't finish their embroidered bags! It's too bad, because they really were darling, and the kids who did finish them, loved them!



After putting together the first bag, and after realizing that I had plenty of lining material available, since only about one third of the students finished them, I decided to play around to see how I could get the lining to show a bit better. I managed to fiddle with the pattern until I got the kind of edge I wanted at the top of the bag. You can see the green one in the photo above - it doesn't have a lining showing. It was the first one I put together. I still think it's darling, and, in fact, it won a first place ribbon at the judging!



A few more embroidered drawstring bags...



There's one of the display posters, with pictures of the two classes I taught this summer, and in front are a few of the felt notebook covers.



And there's another part of the display, with the other poster and more book covers and bags. No people there yet...!



Some of the felt notebook covers a little closer...

And there you have it! Another summer embroidery class comes to a close, and a new school year launches.... and I'm already feeling behind!

I'll post an update on the silk work sampler from the adults' summer classes soon. We didn't really seem to get very far, but it's all relative, I guess!

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Sunday, September 02, 2007

Too Busy to Embroider?

 
For me, hand embroidery is a "carrot," especially when life gets hectic and my schedule fills up. When you get busy, do you still take time to embroider?

I think most die-hard needleworkers do. I don't have the "luxury" of making my living with needlework (I wonder if it's really a luxury - I imagine those who do, work pretty hard!) This time of year, as school is getting underway again, I'm generally swamped, and the prospect of picking up a needle - as appealing as it is - seem rather remote. Oh, to have the time to just relax with a good embroidery project and stitch away, without anything else hanging over my head!

Alas, it isn't to be. But I refuse to give up needlework during busy spells. Instead, I use it as a "carrot." I plan out the things I must do during a given day, and, if I accomplish my goals, then I get the carrot - even if it's just a half hour or so of embroidery, without feeling guilty about neglecting the daily duties.

The only problem is, I can't start a project when I'm swamped with other stuff. The set-up of a new project always takes too long, and is most suited to weekend hours when I know I'll have a good-sized block of time. Since that won't be the case for a while, I'm contenting myself with a couple needlepainting projects I have had stored away, and with my summer silkwork sampler, which is progressing veeeeerrrry slowly.

So how do you schedule in your needlework when life keeps you extraordinarily busy? Do you give it up altogether? Or do you squeeze it in somehow?

On another note, today all the summer embroidery projects from my kids' classes are being displayed at a local Fall Festival. I'm excited to get everything set up and ready for that, and to give away a few prizes. I plan to take plenty of photos!

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