Wednesday, April 30, 2008

On Cramming an Embroidery Project

You remember cramming for tests, right? Well, I'm cramming an embroidery project! I started this project this past Saturday, around noon. I have one week to have it finished - doable? You bet!

The project is an embroidered book cover for my niece's prayer book. She makes her First Communion this Sunday. (I'll show you her hand-embroidered dress once it's pressed and ready...) I thought I'd whip up a little book cover for her prayer book before this coming Saturday evening - after all, it's just a little book, with a little cover.

The only possible obstacle that I may have overlooked was ... the work week!?!

I started by finding a design. I could draw one - takes time - or I could flip through the designs I have. I flipped. I quickly realized I would need something long and narrow as opposed to short and wide, so I limited my looking to the overall shape of the design, and then eliminated choices from there. I needed something relatively simple that I could stitch relatively quickly, and that would appeal to my niece.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


The fabric of choice - should it be white Italian silk (thick silk - satin), or linen? I settled on linen for washability. I'm using a piece of Alabaster Angel by Legacy - NICE stuff!

Then I pre-shrunk the fabric. While it was going through the stages of pre-shrinking linen, I took out graph paper and the prayer book and drew up the pattern for the cover.

I sought a piece of white cotton for a lining behind the linen, as the prayer book has a black cover, and I didn't want that to show through. I pre-shrunk the cotton as well.

Then while the fabric was drying, I transferred my embroidery design to tracing paper. I drew the design with a fine micron pen, then turned it over and traced the back of it with a pencil.

When my fabrics were almost dry, I ironed them to crisp (as in, stiff and wrinkle-free, not burnt!!). I added a couple layers of starch on the linen to make removing any pencil marks easier.

I removed a thread on each side of the linen to mark the size of the pattern (makes cutting easier and square when finished) and basted in the width of the cover of the prayer book.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


I took the embroidery design (on the tracing paper), centered it up, and used a ball-point pen on the right side of the design, pressing hard enough to transfer the pencil lines on the back of the design onto the fabric. It worked perfectly. Then I took an extra-fine (.005) micron art pen, and drew in the lines on the linen with the pen.

I framed up both the lining and the linen - but I didn't frame it super-tight. Just enough to give a little tension without pulling on the linen.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


I picked out my colors - the cross and crown will be gold, the vines green, the flower will be a range of purple, and the bud will be a light and medium shade of salmon-pink.

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


And then I started stitching. I had a good chunk of time on Saturday evening to stitch (it took me a couple hours to get the project set up), a little bit of time on Sunday afternoon, and a few hours late Sunday night. I managed a little stitching on Monday evening, and a couple hours on Tuesday. The picture below shows progress through Sunday afternoon (a few hours of stitching).

Emma's Embroidered Prayerbook Cover


Will I finish before Saturday? I do believe I will! Now I wish I had chosen a more complicated pattern! It's going pretty fast, actually.

I was glad to find a use for the gilt sylke twist on the project - but then I remembered I chose linen for washability. Ut oh. The GST will most likely get wet. I outlined the cross in the gold GST, which helped even up some of the lines (cheating, I know!) and I'm contemplating using it on the crown as well.

I'll keep you posted with finished pictures. I'm going to make a matching corded trim, so I'll show you how I do that. It'll either be kumihimo, or I'll just make a twisted cord by hand. And I'll try to take sensible and instructive photos on assembling the piece over the book!

Have you ever crammed a project? Do you perform better or worse when you're embroidering under pressure?

Wish me luck!

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Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Reader's Embroidery: Redwork!

I like redwork - I think its simplicity is charming: pretty, delicate (or rustic, depending on the look), and normally executed with simple stitches. And of course, its usually red! I love red. Jeannine's redwork square here is her first attempt (you'll find it hard to believe she's an beginner, which makes it that much more impressive!)

The embroidery pattern is from Needlecrafter, where you can find some nice vintage embroidery patterns, all cleaned up and ready to go. For the first time in ages, it looks like Needlecrafter is busy again! There have been new additions, and, although there are some broken links in the photos (and the pictures in the new gallery don't display yet?), I'm excited to see that there may be life on the site again! So check that resource out for online patterns!

But first, check out Jeannine's redwork square:

Redwork Embroidery: Lady with Basket and Flowers


This is a closer-up on the top half of the design - the stitching is nice and delicate.

Redwork Embroidery: Lady with Basket and Flowers


And here's the whole thing! I love the feet and slippers, and the pretty dress!

I think the stitching is really well done on this! It's nice and neat and tidy, and just the right delicacy for the design. Jeannine used DMC 814, which is a deep, rich red. I think it was a good color choice!

Congratulations on your first redwork, Jeannine, and thanks for sending the pictures along!

I've got a few other readers' projects coming up soon. If you have pictures to share of your recent projects, drop me an e-mail and I'll reply!

And in the meantime, I'm crunching an embroidery project this week - I started it Saturday afternoon, and it has to be finished this Saturday. I'll show you photos tomorrow!

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Monday, April 28, 2008

Embroidered Clothing: Vintage from the New York Times

During the Victorian and Edwardian eras, embroidery on fine clothing was the norm. By the time the Industrial Revolution finished off the cottage industries, embroidery on clothing could be done by machine. But that didn't stop some people from undertaking the embellishment of their own wardrobes, as this New York Times article attests.

Anyone interested in costuming, in vintage textiles, or even in general surface embroidery may find this "Message to Women" interesting. What's the message? "Gold Thread to be Used Lavishly in Many Fabrics this Season" with explanations on "Honeycomb Stitchery." Read the gold thread article if you get a chance - you can pick up some interesting instruction on how to work the techniques discussed. If nothing else, I think it's amusing!

NY Times Article on Gold Thread use on Clothing


Speaking of embroidery on clothing and vintage textiles, another interesting source of embroidery designs is The Costume Galler's Online Library of Vintage Publications, in particular the free page of McCall's Magazine Self Transferable Embroidery Patterns, from May of 1908.

McCall's Magazine, May, 1908: Embroidery for Clothing


The nice thing about the patterns offered on the McCall's page (there are five embroidery patterns altogether) is that you could easily modify the pattern for something other than the bodice of that dress you're making for your summer tea parties.... you could take just one section of a motif and use it on linens or whatever!

Enjoy!

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Sunday, April 27, 2008

Pretty Embroidered Pincushions with Basic Stash Stuff

 
Here's a great little tutorial on how to make embroidered pincushions with felt and a few basic items from around your house and in your embroidery stash. They are so darned cute!

My dilemma is this: I'm thinking about using the idea for my summer children's classes - but the questions, what age group?? To small for 7 - 9 year olds?? Anyway, check out the tutorial, which comes via Taunton Press.

Enjoy the rest of the weekend!

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Saturday, April 26, 2008

Embroidering on Old Linens

 
Perhaps instead of "old linens," I should use the term "vintage," which has a much better ring to it! What about working your own hand embroidery on vintage linens? Do you think it's a good idea, or would it be a waste of time, since they're already... um... "old"?

I was considering the question of doing some hand embroidery - specifically, whitework - on vintage linens because I had the opportunity to acquire a couple vintage pieces that I liked.

One piece is a table runner or dresser scarf with a hand-crocheted edge all around it, and a very elaborate crocheted design with tassels on each end.

Vintage Linen that I'm considering embroidering


The crocheted edge needs to be pressed and re-situated, but you can see that it's a rather complex edging which could propose a problem for the embroiderer: I wouldn't want to mar the crochet with a hoop or snag it or anything like that! So that could be an "in-hand" job, if necessary.

Vintage Linen that I'm considering embroidering


The edging all around the linen is very pretty, and a bit simpler. I love the picot at the tip of each scallop.

The other is a buffet cloth - long and narrow, scalloped on three sides, with a straight edge that would run along the back of a buffet. The scallops are finished in an overcast stitch, and then a crocheted edge is added for a nice finish.

Vintage Linen that I'm considering embroidering


The linen on the piece is exceptional - a smooth hand, and a crisp finish. It's so nice! It's not slubby at all. It reminds me of Legacy's Ecclesiastical Linen - a perfect weight for whitework.

Vintage Linen that I'm considering embroidering


The edge is nicely done. The only flaw in the piece is a tiny whole at one point on the linen. I was thinking that, if I did do some whitework on this piece, I could use a pattern with eyelets and get rid of the hole by turning it into one!

These were offered as vintage linens from a reputable seller, and you can tell they aren't new, but I don't know enough about vintage textiles to approximate when they were made - they're not that old, anyway. The sheen of both is nice, but the second piece is certainly finer linen. It's a brighter white, while the first piece is slightly ecru and the linen itself is more coarse.

So, that is what I am contemplating - should I or should I not add further embellishment with some whitework on either linen? What do you think? Have you undertaken such a project before? Any tips?

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Friday, April 25, 2008

A New Embroidery Thread from DMC!

 
In one of my embroidery stash give-aways, I asked readers what their favorite embroidery thread is. The majority said they use DMC because of the good color range and the availability. DMC makes good quality threads, and they actually produce more than just the 6-stranded floss that's so widely available.

For example, have you ever tried DMC floche? Floche is a non-divisible, long-staple, 5-ply cotton thread with a beautiful sheen. It's used for all kinds of applications, especially cutwork and surface work where heavy coverage is desired. It's the same thing as coton a broder (sometimes it's called floche a broder or cotton floche or floche coton a broder... ), except that you can usually special order coton a broder in a variety of sizes, all the way up to 40 (the finest). Coton a broder in other sizes than 16 usually comes in white or ecru. Floche comes in a good range of colors. If you want to see a really lovely example of a piece stitched with floche, check out Jeanne's post with her completed soft shading project on Just String. The project was worked with floche!

flowers worked in buttonhole stitch with floche


These buttonhole flowers were also worked with floche. Although floche is technically non-divisible (meaning you use the whole thread, you don't strip it into separate smaller strands like you do with regular stranded embroidery floss), with care, you can actually divide the plies, then blend them with another divided strand. Check out the pansies in the photo below. You can see a kind of creamy yellow blended in with the purple if you look closely!

pansies embroidered with divided floche


Floche and regular stranded cotton are standard threads in my stash, and I use DMC stranded cotton pretty regularly. When I teach children's embroidery in the summers, I use DMC stranded cotton solely, because of its easy availability, its affordability, and the wide range of colors. With the kids, I also use DMC perle cottons (especially #5) regularly, since the thicker, non-divisible thread is easier for children to work with.

Finally, though, the news: DMC is coming out with a new thread, and I'm looking forward to trying it! It sounds enticing! It's a new specialty thread called Satin Floss, and it's supposed to be a nice smooth thread with a nice sheen. They're producing a 36-color palette, and the colors are nice! The thread is 100% rayon, but it doesn't look like the finicky rayon - it looks a bit more substantial. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm hoping to soon - at which time, I'll review it and give you some comparisons.

DMC is a tried-and-true embroidery company. It seems they're trying to "come of age" with embroiderers today by offering some more trendy projects and so forth to their repertoire. You can see some of these in local craft stores: the Linea projects that were popular a couple years ago, and other clothing / accessory embellishment projects. I'm rather more keen on the "old country" (France) DMC offerings! For example, I'd like to see certain threads become more widely available or easier to order here in the US - like the floche, which can only be found through some specialty shops.

Hedgehog Handworks is a good source for floche. You can order two different sized hanks from them, which is nice: a 32-yard twists made up of 21 strands 55" long ($1.25 each) or the standard 168-yard hank ($5.25 each).

DMC has a good website here in the US - DMC Creative World - which, from what I've heard, will be expanding with more informational and instructional items. I'm hoping to see more of their products on their DMC shopping pages some day, too, especially their specialty threads.

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Thursday, April 24, 2008

Rope Stitch Hand Embroidery Video Tutorial

 
I'm always happy when I manage to finish up a new video tutorial for my little Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches. I wanted to see it get to 50 stitches long before this - but I'm almost there! I'm going to have a celebration when it hits 50 stitches. Some sort of big ... something. You can all join me!

The rope stitch is a nice hand embroidery stitch, perfect for a thick, corded look, and a member (believe it or not) of the chain stitch family. It looks like overcast stitch on a slant, or trailing on a slant. It's a great stitch for curves, so I worked it over the beginning of a curve in the video. It takes gradual curves really well, and it will take tighter curves well if you shorten your stitches and work carefully around the curve.

The Rope Stitch used in Hand Embroidery


So there's an up-close photo of the stitch for you. You can see at the base how the chain stitch is evident.

To begin the rope stitch, you start with a variation of twisted chain stitch. When you begin the stitch, the needle is going down into the fabric to the right of where you emerged, with your thread behind your needle, then you cross over your needle with the working thread (that's the twisted chain part), then take the thread under your needle, and then pull through. Now, here's the thing - from that point out, the stitch is really just a regular chain stitch! So it's easy.

It's a pretty strong stitch, too, as long as you aren't taking the thread too long across the top, so that it loosens up too much. In older embroidery books (from the 1800's), you'll see that the stitch is often recommended in the place of cording, if the area being stitched is going to get a lot of use.

Enjoy the video! The sound's still a bit crackly. I need new equipment!



For more hand embroidery videos, please visit my Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches, where you will find, as of today, 48 embroidery stitch videos! Getting close to 50...!

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Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Leafy Border

 
Two days in a row on hand embroidery patterns! Hope you don't mind. This one is a leafy border, stylized and a little formal. There are lots of possibilities with this pattern - it could even make a good pattern for hand-quilting the border of a quilt.

Whenever I see an embroidery pattern like this, the first thing I think of is guest towels or pillow cases or something similar. White on white, or even a subtle color (green?) would look good.

It's a nice pattern for easy stitching, anyway - stem stitch would work, but I think chain stitch would look great!

Another thought just occured to me: what about the bottom edge of a skirt? And then that opens up a lot of possibilities - dressy or casual!

[When playing with patterns, it's fun thinking of hundreds of different ways they can be used. But I seem to have a problem finding time just to try one of those hundreds of ways.....!!!]

Click on the pattern below for a larger size, which you can resize as you wish.



For more hand embroidery patterns, check out my hand embroidery pattern index!

On another note altogether, I have an update on bullion knots with Gilt Sylke Twist coming up. That is, if it works out well! Even if it doesn't, I suppose you could learn from my mistakes!

Back to my needle 'n thread!

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Monday, April 21, 2008

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Corner, Diamond, or Square!

 
I realized I haven't posted a free hand embroidery pattern in a long time, so I thought I'd share this little embroidery pattern with you!

This is a simple embroidery pattern that I think would look great on household linens: towels, table runner, cloth napkins, etc.

It would be quick to work - so it would be great for making a gift! What about a linen basket-liner (for a bread basket or something?), with this stitched in the corners?

As far as fabric goes - well, anything's fair game. If I had more natural-colored linen, I'd like to make a basket liner with this, and stitch it in white coton a broder, in stem stitch for all the lines, and the dots, leaves, and little tulip shapes on the sides would be worked in satin stitch. I think it'd be pretty - just a simple motif, but enough to mark it as hand-made and elegant.

Come to think of it, this would also make a fun exercise in gold couching.

So here's the pattern. Click on it for a larger version!

Personally, I'd keep it somewhat small - three inches square, maybe? You can resize it on your computer or on a copy machine.



For more hand-embroidery patterns, check these out:

Hand Embroidery Patterns available here on Needle 'n Thread
Ecclesiastical Patterns available here on Needle 'n Thread
An index of websites that offer free embroidery patterns online.

Have fun with it! And if you stitch something with it, do let me know!!!!! I love sharing readers' adventures in needlework!

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Sunday, April 20, 2008

A Different Kind of Needle 'n Thread

 
I mentioned a while back that my Aunt was celebrating her 90th birthday, and I shared a photo of the embroidered paper card I made for her. Well, when my parents returned from Alabama, they brought with them something for me from my Auntie, so... I thought I'd show it to you!

Granted, this isn't embroidery. It's a different use of needle 'n thread (or hook, anyway). It's crochet! My Aunt Margaret (affectionately called "Auntie" by everyone), though 90 (and now pushing 91!) is a master with a crochet hook. She's made all her nieces and grandchildren and children and probably all her friends and their children (and on and on) crocheted afghans, sometimes full-sized and sometimes throws.

Auntie's crocheting is always perfect. You can't find a flaw in it if you wanted to! Here's the red-and-white throw she sent home to me:

Crocheted Throw Afghan


I love it! It's the perfect size for everything - reading on the couch, even embroidering in the winter - and it doesn't have the extra bulk and length of a regular full-sized afghan.

I like the pattern on it as well - kind of checkered, but not really:

Crocheted Throw Afghan


When I graduated from high school, Auntie made me a dark pink and cream full sized afghan. I took it with me to college, which was a good thing! I had a drafty dorm room, and that afghan, I'm sure, saved my life. I slept under it many a winter! I still have it and use it, too, thought it's now stored away for next winter.

My mom tells me funny stories about growing up "in the old days." My mother crochets as well, but she only learned because my Aunt forced her to. The story goes like this:

Margaret's a good 16 years older than my mom. At some point or another, Auntie got married and moved from Florida to Quonset Point, Rhode Island, where Uncle George was stationed in the Navy. Her little sister Laura Ann (my mom) eventually got married to my dad, a Navy pilot, and they were stationed at Quonset Point, as well.

Laura Ann could manage simple crochet, but not like Auntie, who made beautiful doilies. She visited Margaret's house one day and decided she wanted doilies for her house, too! And Laura Ann, the new bride, asked her sister to make her one. Mom was a bit "spoiled" (and perhaps a little demanding), so she probably didn't expect the answer she got! Well... being the Wise Older Sister (or just being ornery, I'm not sure which!), Margaret told her no, to make her own. But Laura Ann said she couldn't read the pattern. Margaret told her to figure it out!

One of my Mom's Crocheted Doilies


My mother's reaction: "I'll show her. I'll make BETTER doilies." She charged out and bought a book and figured it out herself. Whether or not my mom makes Better Doilies is not the issue! Thanks to Auntie's refusal to oblige the new bride, my mom can make beautiful doilies, among other things. Her obsession now is crocheted filet lace for church use.

Another one of Mom's Crocheted Doilies


But isn't that the way it should be? Teach others - or at least encourage them to learn - how to do some handwork, and they'll have something that will give them pleasure for the rest of their lives!

Thanks for the throw, Auntie!! I love it!

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Saturday, April 19, 2008

Dinky-Dyes Silk Line Door Prize at the Needlework Show

 
The Needlework Show is a twice-yearly online event where needlework designers and vendors set up a "booth" (web page) featuring their products, so that retailers and their customers can "shop" online. The customer (that would be you and me, if you don't own a retail shop) can see what's offered by different designers or vendors and request the products at their local needlework shop. The retailers can see what's new without having to visit a trade show. So all in all, it's a good deal. The fun part, though, are the door prizes... and one in particular caught my eye, so i thought I'd tell the rest of you about it.

The majority of the needlework featured at The Needlework Show are from designers or vendors who supply counted-thread designs. There are very few free-style surface embroidery techniques featured.

You've probably guessed my forte is not counted thread work, although I do love to look at historical samplers and I am quite enchanted by certain types of counted thread designs. For example, I like this chart from The French Needle:

The French Needle Fleur de Lys Chart



I also like blackwork, the Quaker style samplers that are popular right now, the European / French-look designs that have a hint of historical and Provencial charm to them, Hardanger embroidery (there are some nice projects featured on the J. Design page), and some of the embellished biscornu designs that implement more than just cross stitch. If you, too, like these styles of counted thread techniques, you'll find plenty of designers' work to browse through at The Needlework Show.

Some of the vendors feature accessories for needlework, such as Kelmscott Designs, which offers mother-of-pearl thread winders and keeps, and those pretty magnets for holding extra needles on your projects while you stitch.

Some thread vendors feature their wares at The Needlework Show as well. For example, you'll find a Needlepoint Inc Silk page promoting their threads.

One thread vendor in particular that caught my eye was Dinky-Dyes. Dinky-Dyes is an Australian company that offers a vast range of dyed cottons and silks. I knew Dinky-Dyes offered cotton threads, but I didn't know they had such a fantastic line of dyed silks. The colors look really stunning, and I love the names! The exciting part about the Dinky-Dyes booth at The Needlework Show is that they are offering a really nice door prize: a full line of their silks to a lucky winner!! WOW! You probably realize I have a thing for thread. I love embroidery floss, I love silk especially, I love beautifully colored silks - and if you do, too, well... here's another source for thread and maybe you should check out their line. I'm going to!

Better yet, perhaps you should register for the door prize. Check out the Dinky-Dyes booth at the Needlework Show to register - by MONDAY, April 21st, at midnight!

Enjoy browsing through The Needlework Show, but get there before midnight, Monday, April 21st, or it'll be gone - until next fall.

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Friday, April 18, 2008

Embroidering with Purpose and More Gilt Sylke Twist

 
Tonight, I'm going to embroider. I know that sounds strange, because I embroider often. But tonight, I'm embroidering with a purpose!

I'm making a gift for my sister, and I've been so slow about it. I can't seem to concentrate on the piece, because I'm in the middle of doing heaps of bullion knots. I know when I get the bullions done, I'll be more enthused about it!

The current project I'm working on is called "Breath of Spring" - it's a large striped linen bag with an outside pocket that's embroidered, and it was featured in Inspirations Magazine #56. If you follow the link there, you can "flip" through the magazine and find the striped linen bag. Strangely enough, in the photo, it looks like there are blue flowers on the piece, but there aren't!

This is the first Inspirations project I've ever done as a whole. I like to take ideas or patterns from Inspirations and use them on little things, but I've never actually worked a whole project. So this is a first, and I have a month to finish it.

That's what I'm up to, project-wise. Here are some photos of the parts I've finished, which, as you can see, isn't a whole lot. I've taken liberties on some parts...

Breath of Spring Embroidered Bag


Some embroidered butterflies...

Breath of Spring Embroidered Bag


Some embroidered bugs...

Breath of Spring Embroidered Bag


And some shamefully MESSY bullion knots...

Aside from "embroidering with purpose" tonight, I'm also reveling in the fact that I got the rest of the Gilt Sylke Twist colors: dark blue, purple, and yellow.

Hedgehog Handworks carries all colors (but they don't have the green in stock right now), and they're charging $19.80 / spool, which is the least-expensive price I've seen so far. Admittedly, they get you a bit on shipping (almost $15 for 6 spools of thread?), so it all evens out.

The yellow is actually a VERY nice, mellow gold, and with the gold wrapped around it, it really gleams. It will be perfect for ecclesiastical embroidery. I'm generating ideas and will probably be turning them over in my head the whole time I'm stitching. I'm thinking wheat. And that brings to mind the bullion knots I must finish tonight. Aaack.

I wonder how GST will do, stitching bullions?

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Thursday, April 17, 2008

Free Hand Embroidery Patterns with Thorough Instructions from the EGA

 
If you're just getting into hand embroidery and you want to know where to start to practice a bit, you might want to check out some of the free patterns offered on the Embroiderers' Guild of America website. Let me tell you what they have...

First, for general surface embroidery techniques, which could be adapted to crewel work, to silk, or to cotton, you'll find a nice PDF pamphlet on Basic Techniques for Surface Embroidery. Here, you'll learn about setting up a design as well as the techniques for basic stitches used in the pattern. It's kind of a Jacobean motif, and it looks like it would be fun to work!

Next, if you're interested in trying out blackwork, you might take a look at their PDF pamphlet on Technique Basics for Blackwork. It's a very simple motif. You'll be shown how to set it up and work it.

Finally, if you like the idea of stumpwork but haven't tried it yet, there's a nice little pattern for Wild Cornish Fuchsia that's very pretty. The directions are detailed and will guide you easily through the project.

You'll also find Technique Basics for Counted Cross Stitch and some cute patterns for little embroidered name tags on their free embroidery projects page.

The EGA is a great place to start for all kinds of embroidery information, classes, and so forth, so while you're looking at their free patterns, you might want to take a thorough look around their website and consider joining. Even if you don't connect yourself to a local guild, and sign up instead as a Member at Large, you'll have access to the Members Only section of the site (which is filled with all kinds of good information) and you'll also be able to sign up for correspondence courses in all kinds of techniques!

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Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Book Review: Long and Short Stitch Embroidery by Trish Burr

 
I reviewed Trish Burr's embroidery book, Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery, a while back, but perhaps I should have preceded that with her book, Long and Short Stitch Embroidery, A Collection of Flowers, since it focuses more on the method of long and short stitch needle painting. Well, as I've been getting my library in order, I've been pulling out favorite books for easier access, and this just happens to be one my faves. So I thought I'd tell you about it!

If you haven't seen Trish's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers, you should look it up and at least see the cover. It's a work of art. Featured on the cover is a flaming lily, a gardenia and some other blossoms, all worked in needle painting (or thread painting) techniques. The cover is gorgeous, and it's hard to believe that the flowers on it are indeed embroidered and not painted.

The primary stitch used in this kind of work is long and short stitch. The key to making the work look so realistic is the direction of the stitching and the shading achieved by the color selection and the stitching.

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers


In Long and Short Stitch Embroidery, Trish takes the embroiderer (whether beginner, novice, or advanced) through the basics of long and short stitch. She has an excellent section titled "Tips for Improving your Long and Short Stitch," which any embroiderer interested in this technique would find useful. Perhaps the best tip is something that I figured out only after quite a bit of this type of stitching, but you'd get better results from the very beginning if you knew it in advance: the concept of drawing extra guidelines for stitch direction, then stitching a directional stitch along each guideline, and then going back between the directional stitches and filling in. This helps your stitches move gradually along the angle you want them to turn. It's a great tip, and nice to know when you first set out! Besides this, she covers other useful hints to make your stitching look perfect.

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers


Besides covering the basics of materials and set-up, Trish takes the embroiderer through excercises in getting used to long and short stitch - filling in, for example, a simple petal shape. Then she takes you step-by-step through slightly more complicated shapes, showing how to effectively place your stitches and shade the shape. From there, she launches into smaller flower motifs, and then - wow! - a terrific selection of gorgeous flowers!

Each larger flower project includes a line drawing of the flower to use as a pattern; another line drawing that shows the angle or direction the stitches should flow in; a full color, close-up photo of the finished project already stitched; and, in most of the larger flowers, close-ups of different parts of the flower so that you can see it actually stitched and compare it to what yours should look like. And these pictures are INCREDIBLE! Really beautiful stuff!

She also includes a list of DMC and Anchor thread numbers, which makes it really easy to assemble the threads needed for any project in the book - you don't have to color-match!

Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch Embroidery: A Collection of Flowers


My favorite flower in the book is the Protea. It's amazing! It reminds me of an artichoke, but so beautiful, with vibrant pinks, whites, and greens. Actually, there isn't any project in the book I don't like!

The projects would be suitable for any finishing that you would work surface embroidery for - household decor, book covers, whatnot - but they make such a striking finished piece that I would be inclined to frame them! They would make beautiful accents on the walls around the house, and anyone who saw them would look at them in wonder. "That's embroidered??!!" (I love it when people say that!)

So if you're not familiar with Trish's book, take a gander! You're bound to be impressed! If this is your type of technique, you'll be glad to have the book in your library. You can pick it up through Amazon for less than $13!

Incidentally, rumor has it (although I haven't received my copy yet) that this month's Inspirations magazine features a project by Trish. I'm really looking forward to that!

She's also coming out with a new book this summer. I believe it's on crewel work, and it should be fantastic. If it's the quality of her other books, we have something great to look forward to!



If you're looking for other embroidery book reviews, check out my list of needlework books I've reviewed here on Needle 'n Thread. You can also check out my bookstore link (Amazon affiliate program). I own every book that I review on Needle 'n Thread or that I have listed in my bookstore. If you have any questions about any of them in particular, just contact me!

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Fabric for Surface and Tips on Linen

 
If you've got the bug to take up embroidery or to start a new project, you might begin by contemplating what fabric to use. Over this past week, I've received from readers many questions about fabric used for embroidery, so I thought I'd write a little bit on the subject.

First of all, there's the primary question: what are you planning to stitch? Are you just practicing, or are you preparing a major project for yourself or for someone else? Your answer to this question will help determine the quality and type of fabric you're planning to use.

Right off the bat, I prefer to use natural fibers. For some reason, they're just better to stitch on: linen, 100% cotton, or, for fancy stuff, 100% silk are my choice fabrics.

If you're a beginner and you want to practice an embroidery technique such as needle painting or just some simple surface embroidery with regular embroidery floss, I'd say to go with something less expensive, such as a good quality muslin in white or cream. Southern Belle is a nice brand of muslin and is available in quilt shops or online. I use Southern Belle muslin for needle painting projects and as backing for goldwork projects that are done on silk.

If you're already confident in your needlework skills and you're launching into a major surface embroidery project as a gift or for yourself, and if you have the funds to use for it, I'd go with linen of some sort.

Linen is my favorite choice for general surface embroidery projects. If I'm doing anything that has goldwork on it, I go with a medium weight linen. If I'm doing whitework, I go with a lighter linen with a higher thread count. If I'm doing crewel work or surface work in silks, I'll use a medium weight or even a linen twill. (For crewel work, linen twill is the norm, I believe.)

As far as brands of linen, this is the thing: some linen can be just awful for stitching on, because there is "cheap" (as in, poor quality) linen out there. For major projects that I intend to withstand the test of time, my favorite brand of linen is Legacy linen. It's a European linen imported by Access Commodities, and, from what I know of linen (which is not necessarily exhaustive!), it's the best linen out there. Legacy linen has great body - which, unlike the case with some linens, is not the result of added starch. It keeps its body after washing. It has a smooth surface and nice hand (feel to it), and it isn't slubby. It's not coarse or brittle, either. Legacy makes even-weave and plain weave linens in various counts. But whether even or plain weave, the horizontal and vertical thread counts in Legacy linen are pretty closely the same. The linen is woven with warp and waft threads that are close in size, if not identical. I use Alba Maxima for a lot of my surface work (like this strawberry or my silk shading sampler, as well as for the Agnus Dei project from last year). For cutwork or whitework, Legacy's ecclesiastical linen is excellent. It is crisp and firm and beautiful! And, for really light stuff, Legacy makes an equally beautiful shadow-work linen.

I don't always buy Legacy linen, though, since it's not always in the budget! It's pricey. When I want a good linen that isn't as expensive, I at least make sure I'm buying linen from northern Europe, where the best flax crops produce the best linen. Belgium, Sweden, Ireland, and northern France all produce beautiful linen.

You're best off buying linen from needlework suppliers rather than fabric outlets, although occasionally your local fabric store may stock a relatively good linen. Make sure you look at it first, though. "Medium weight" linen sold on websites such as Fabric.com tend to look really good price-wise, but keep in mind that this type of linen is for clothing: it's not super-attractive up close and it's usually slubby and loose, intended for blazers and so forth. "Shirt" linen from such sources generally has a tighter weave, but can often be so irregular upclose as to be unsuitable for stitching. Any body to it washes out on the first go, too, leaving you with a flaccid linen with a proclivity towards stubborn wrinkles.

As far as silk goes, I like silk with body. Italian silk is beautiful and when I need a firm, buttery silk with good body, I generally will look for Italian silk. (I used a golden Italian silk as the ground fabric for this stole.) But there are different types of silk from all over the world available - depending on your project, you'll want to select the right weight of silk for what you intend to do. Even if I'm using a heavier weight Italian silk, I back my silk with muslin before I stitch, framing up both the muslin and the silk at the same time and stitching through both layers. This is especially necessary with lighter, crisper silks, such as shantung and dupion.

Some further tips on fabric preparation:

If you are planning to wash your project before doing the finish work, it's a good idea to pre-shrink your linen. Linen shrinks. If you're making something like a table cloth or a book cover or anything measured, wouldn't it be the pits to make the thing, wash it, and find it's smaller than you intended? Anyway, I like to pre-shrink my linen to ensure that I'm not going to end up with puckers afterwards. There's usually still enough shrink left (even after pre-shrinking) to account for any thread shrinkage (if there is any). But if you haven't pre-shrunk, you can count on noticeable shrinking when you wash the piece at the end.

Here's my shrinking formula for linen:

Lay your folded piece of linen in a clean bucket or shallow tub in your sink (sometimes, I use a clean glass bowl, depending on the size of the piece). Boil a kettle of water and pour the water on the linen. Swish the tub to get the water to move through the linen and heat it all up. Then rinse the linen under the coldest tap water, until it's cold all over. In the meantime, have the kettle boiling again, so that you can repeat the process. Pour on the boiling water the second time and swish the tub to make sure the water penetrates through the layers of your folded linen. And then again, rinse with cold tap water. For the last soaking, boil the kettle, pour it on, and leave the linen to sit in the water until the water is room temperature. Rinse with cold water. The change in cold-hot-cold-hot is what shrinks the fabric.

Take the linen out of the water. It'll be really stiff. Lay it on a clean towel and gently press the excess water out of it. Then you can either hang it or lay it to dry.

While it's still damp, you can iron it, but don't iron it to dry it. Iron it just to remove wrinkles. (You can wait until it's completely dry, too, and then mist it with a spray bottle.) If you iron it to dry it, you risk overdoing it with the iron and scorching the damp linen!

If you're working with a small piece of linen, consider taking a clean mirror and spreading your damp linen onto the mirror. Smooth it out over the clean mirror and leave it to dry. When it's dry, you can peel it from the mirror and it will have nary a wrinkle in it!

So that's a little bit about fabrics that I use for embroidery.

I would love to hear what you use - what's your favorite fabric to work on?

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Monday, April 14, 2008

And the Winner Is.... and Favorite Embroidery Technique

 
Good morning, folks! I'm up early to post, since this was supposed to go on last night. A couple points on the embroidery stash contest for April, so please read on...

First point - the winner of the Gilt Sylke Twist is BaileyGirl5. Yippeeee! If you would please contact me with your address, that would be great. I'll get the package in the mail by the end of this week. Please use the "contact us" feature - don't post personal information in the comment section! Thanks! And I hope you like the thread!

Second point - KerGiz? I never did hear from you about receiving the March stash package! I hope it arrived in Hungary safe and sound. If it didn't, let me know!

And finally, Meeta asked what my favorite embroidery technique is. I had to laugh at her question - I didn't mind asking readers, but when I turned it around to myself, I thought "Gosh. That's just too hard."

I can tell what techniques I don't like more easily than what techniques I like best!

But anyway, here are my favorites (note the plural!) & not necessarily in order of preference:

Surface embroidery, including needlepaiting, crewel work, general free-style stuff, and so forth (right - not very narrow).

Gold work and metal thread embroidery.

Ecclesiastical work - which is just a specific application of the types above.

And historical embroidery that focuses on, again, any of the points above, as well as historical counted thread and canvas work techniques.

But I really do like anything, or at least will try anything. I don't really tend towards abstract designs; I prefer more traditional patterns. I best like working on projects that I draw up myself, but I enjoy working kits, too, as long as the kits are tasteful, incorporate good quality materials, and will help me learn. For example, Tanja Berlin's kits and occasionally (when I can afford it!) some of the kits from Country Bumpkin are the types of kits that entice me.

So there's my two-cents' worth.

Every time I do the drawing for these stash contests, I end up feeling really happy for the person I drew, but really disappointed for the rest! But I do want you all to know that I appreciate your input and your indulgence of my embroidery ramblings! May is coming up - keep an eye out for the next embroidery stash contest!

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Saturday, April 12, 2008

Inspriational Birthday Present for the Embroiderer!

 
For all those who sent me e-mail and so forth expressing kind wishes for my birthday, thank you! I'm not zealous about celebrating my birthday, but who doesn't like receiving good wishes? And... who doesn't like receiving the "perfect" birthday gift? Well, if you embroider and if your tastes are similar to mine, you'll understand how thrilled I was to receive a hefty little package from my sister...

I have an older sister who likes to embroider as well, and in the earlier years of Inspirations Magazine, she was a subscriber. She kept the issues, of course... and now....

THEY'RE MINE!!

Back Issues of Inspirations Embroidery Magazine


I haven't had a chance to pour over them slowly, but it's a nice supply for lunch-break magazine perusals.

Isn't she nice?!

There's one project that did catch my eye right off the bat. One of the magazines has an Or Nué (goldwork and silk) strawberry design in it. I feel another strawberry brewing...! Oh no!

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Friday, April 11, 2008

Embroidery Techniques and Patterns

 
Sometimes, I come across embroidery books in weird ways. I asked the other day for recommendations for beginner embroidery books for youth, ages 15 or under, with a price limit of $15. I got some good suggestions, and in looking some of the suggestions up, I came across a neat book that I wanted to review in case it could fit the bill for some readers who are just getting into embroidery, or for those who want some interesting, planned projects.

The book is called Embroidery Techniques and Patterns. It's written by Marie-Noelle Bayard. I really like it! I wish, in fact, I had come across it sooner, as I have had several friends ask for recommendations, and the types of projects in Marie-Noelle's book are right up their alley!

Embroidery Techniques and Patterns by Marie-Noelle Bayard


The book begins with good instructions on getting started in embroidery: materials, preparation, and so forth. It is then divided into types of stitches, which are then broken down into stitch "families" within the types. Within each section on types of stitches, the author gives instructions on how to complete various projects which are pictured in the book.

Embroidery Techniques and Patterns by Marie-Noelle Bayard


So, for example, under filling stitches (types of stitches), she has Ceylon, cross stitch and variations, satin stitch, and so forth.

Embroidery Techniques and Patterns by Marie-Noelle Bayard


The types of projects presented in the book range for useful household decor - pillows, curtains (Really Beautiful Drawn Thread Curtains), picture frames, and so forth - to pretty wardrobe accessories (purses and stoles) - to practical needlework accessories (pincushions) - to family holiday items (like a reindeer Advent calendar). They are tasteful projects accessible to the beginner.

Embroidery Techniques and Patterns by Marie-Noelle Bayard


The stitch directions in the book are step-by-step photographs, which is really handy for the beginner.

Embroidery Techniques and Patterns by Marie-Noelle Bayard


And the patterns for the projects are clear line drawings that can be photocopied and enlarged or traced as is.

The book also features a picture index of the stitches, which I love to see in how-to embroidery books!

The pros of the book: 1. it's comprehensive - stitch directions, projects, finishing tips, etc., are all available inside the covers of the book; 2. the stitch directions are clear and there are plenty of them; 3. the projects are tasteful; 4. the book is attractive; 5. the price is right - under $11 through Amazon for a very nice book - you get a lot of instruction and inspiration for the price!

The cons: 1. it's a heavy book, making it difficult to use while actually stitching; 2. the binding is typical paper-back glue binding, which, coupled with the weight of the book, makes it even more difficult to use while stitching - a spiral binding would have been much more effective. But those are really the only two draw-backs I can see to it, and they aren't major. The book does lay open on the table, so you wouldn't really have any problem stitching, even if it isn't quite as convenient as a spiral binding is on a how-to book.

I'm really glad I came across this little gem. I think it will be perfect for those who want "something to embroider" that would look good used in the home or on the person, but who don't want anything too complex or expensive as far as supplies go.

Age-wise, I'd say it would be a good book for beginners, age 15 and up.

So, if you're looking for a nice how-to book that has a lot in it for the price, do check out Marie-Noelle Bayard's Embroidery Techniques and Patterns! I think you'll like it!


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Thursday, April 10, 2008

Embroidered Strawberry Completed

 
I had so much fun embroidering this little strawberry scene. There's nothing super-fancy about it, and certainly there's nothing accurate about it as far as nature is concerned, but the embroidery was fun! I learned several things along the way.

First, I learned about embroidering with Gilt Sylke Twist - some things work, and some things don't. Well, I should qualify that: they didn't work for me. They might work better for someone with a little more skill and a little more patience!

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


For example, long and short stitch and variations, worked on an arch, are probably not ideal with this thread. For one thing, the thread can't be split, so you have to come up between the previous stitches - which nudges them aside. Because of the stiff nature of the GST, they tend to stay nudged aside...

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


It doesn't look horrible, but it doesn't look that great, either!

For the blossom, I settled on long and short stitch in ecru and pink, with some highlights of the pink GST in the middle.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


I like the way the blossom came out. I used some slightly darker brownish-pink in there, too, and between the petals for a bit of separation.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


The leaves behind the blossom are worked in three colors of green: I satin stitched the whole leaf in a medium green, then I embroidered a few "shoots" of dark green up from the edge of the petal. Finally, I worked in a very light green at the tips, using just two stitches over each tip, in stem stitch, to give it a kind of curled look.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


Another thing I learned: oh, yes, we all know it, but do we do it??? Think things through before beginning to stitch. I wasn't thinking when I stitched this stylized leaf (right - that's my excuse: it isn't supposed to look real!). I meant to do the long and short on the edge, exactly as it is done, and I meant to stitch the green GST on the edge as well. I even meant to work a stem stitch filling on the top section of the leaf. However, I did not mean to break the stem stitch scallops where I did! I should have drawn a line, slanting down in the direction of the scallops on the edge, and broken my scallops of stem stitch filling along slanted lines, so that those lines followed the direction of the long and short stitch.

But I wasn't really paying attention, and I didn't notice it until I was finished!

Another way I could have avoided those scallop-lines in the stem stitch filling altogether would have been to alternate the placement of the stitches in each row, not ending at a point each time I came down the scallop hill.

But like I said, I wasn't paying attention!

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


I also learned another thing I already know, but it served as a good reminder: line up your threads and the quantities thereof before you stitch. I ran out of the green I was using. You can't really tell, but it made the little turn-over at the tip look a bit different than I intended.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


But, despite all the lessons, I'm still pretty happy with the way it turned out.

Oh - I learned one more thing. I will no longer be a fanatic over not wanting people to touch my embroidery. Usually, as a finger approaches, I spaz out - "Don't Touch!" When people see something like this strawberry, with the raised leaves and the sparkle of the GST, they can't resist it. They MUST touch it. So I learned that, sometimes, you just have to sit back and not get weird over people wanting to touch your embroidery. After all, they're learning, too!

Hope you liked my GST Strawberry Adventure! Now, on to other projects!

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Wednesday, April 09, 2008

April Embroidery Stash Give-Away!

 
Each month, I've been having a bit of a "stash contest" - giving away a little something from my embroidery stash to anyone who leaves a comment geared towards a specific subject mentioned on the post. So, here's April's embroidery stash give-away....

How would like some Gilt Sylke Twist? I know many have probably already acquired some, but I also know that lots of people out there who would try the thread are deterred by the price for a full 35 meters. So, this month, I'm giving away a meter of each of the colors I presently have: red, green, cream, pink, and light blue.

Gilt Sylke Twist for April's Give-away


In case you haven't figured it out yet, I really love this thread!

My question for this give-away is this:

What's your favorite needlework technique and why?

I'll draw names On Sunday, April 13th, from those of you who respond to the question in the comment section on this post. Please use a name in the comment, to make drawing names easier.

International readers are welcome to participate!! I'll send the package by the least expensive air mail option.

So, comment away!!

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Tuesday, April 08, 2008

The First Embroidered Leaf on my GST Strawberry

 
My Gilt Sylke Twist playtime is rapidly coming to a close. Here, I've got pictures of the embroidered leaf to the left of the strawberry, and the main stem, which is worked in heavy chain stitch.

I've actually progressed a lot further on this little embroidery adventure, but I've fallen behind with taking pictures. The good thing is I'm almost finished. The bad thing is I haven't taken step-by-step photos of every part of the process as I planned. I need to remember to store my camera in my embroidery basket!

Anyway, I really like working the heavy chain stitch with the Gilt Sylke Twist. I think the stitch and the thread go together perfectly for creating thicker stems.

This is the main branch of the strawberry project:

Strawberry embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


I mentioned before that I re-worked the stem stitch on the original little branch running left of the strawberry down through the first leaf. Here 'tis:

Strawberry embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


The stem stitch works fine with this thread! I worked it up the middle of the leaf to the main branch, and it came out much better than the first time I worked the stem stitch with the thread.

Strawberry embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


The leaf is worked in long and short stitch, except the turn-over, which is worked in satin stitch. I'm not so keen on the leaf. I think it was a mistake to outline the whole thing in the dark green stem stitch. I wanted it to stand out a bit. Well, the turn-over's too big and thickish looking, anyway. But oh well - it was practice... and overall, I like the whole piece.

It's kind of weird to see three different-looking leaves on one stem! But I guess that's part of the fun of embroidery - you can pretty much do whatever you want!

So that's the latest on the strawberry, but I'll get some shots of the finished piece as soon as I complete that top leafy thing that doesn't look like a leaf.

As far as the blossom goes, I tried three different approaches. I did manage to take a photo of the attempt at a kind of long and short variation with the GST on the blossom - right before I clipped it out! Then I thought I'd use a padded satin stitch and work the petals in coton a broder, like you would for white work. It looked terrific - if it were on a piece of whitework, that is! It just didn't blend with the rest of the motif. So I snipped that out, too (I don't think I photographed that...) I finally settled on typical long and short stitch with regular stranded floss, in ecru and pink, with some shoots of pink GST up the center of each blossom. That turned out better! So, photos of that later!

And, finally, today is my birthday, and I got the greatest gift from my dear, darling sister.... which I will photograph and tell you about as well! Of course it's embroidery related!

I hope you all have a jolly day, and that you get a chance to spend some quality time with your needle 'n thread. I intend to!

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Monday, April 07, 2008

Embroidery Video Tutorial: Raised Chain Stitch Band

 
Finally, another video tutorial! This is a raised chain stitch, worked down a line of straight stitch bars to form a raised chain stitch band.

This is a composite stitch. There are two embroidery stitches here put together to make the raised chain: the simple straight stitch which forms the bars on which you stitch the chain stitch.

If you wanted to use this stitch as a filling, you would work wider bars (straight stitches) across the area you want to fill and then work multiple lines of chain stitches to fill up the shape.

It's a neat stitch, with good texture and a bit dimensional since it's raised. I'm working it from top to bottom here, but you can work it from right to left (right handed stitchers) or left to right (left handed stitches), or from bottom to top, and along curves.

Raised Chain Stitch that forms a band or line


There's a close-up photo of the stitch, which I worked in two colors so that it would be easier to see. You can work it in a single color, or in two shades of the same color, for things like vines and stems and so forth.

I must apologize for the crackly sound in the video! I'm going to discover what I can do to rectify that (perhaps a new mic) and, when time allows, rework the sound on these. But in the meantime, here's the video:



For more hand-embroidery videos, visit my Video Library of Stitches, where you'll find some 47 videos.

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