Monday, June 30, 2008

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Letter S

Yet another monogram for hand embroidery - the letter "S." I've been posting twice a day, with the intention of getting this whole monogram alphabet online for you - but I don't know if I'll be able to keep up the pace! We'll see. It's been kind of fun and challenging, anyway! If you've liked this monogram alphabet so far, I think you'll really like the "S." It's pretty!

I think I may have given the impression previously that monograms can only be hand embroidered using specialty threads, like coton a broder. Not so, not so! In the next couple weeks, one of my summer embroider classes will begin monogramming a hankie. They're using DMC stranded cotton, and I'm sure it will turn out just fine! I'll post photos of the class sample as soon as I work it up!

For the rest of this monogram alphabet, please visit my Index of Monograms for Hand Embroidery. You'll also find it listed on my Free Hand Embroidery Patterns page!

And so, here's the S - Enjoy!

Monogram for Hand Embroidery - the Letter S


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English Embroidery - Online Book

If you like historical embroidery, you may find A. F. Kendrick's book, English Embroidery, interesting and informative. Keep in mind, though - it's not a how-to. I'll tell you a bit about it...

English Embroidery by A. F. Kendrick can be found online in PDF format through the American Libraries Internet Archive. The book is one of those photographed PDFs, so you really get the sense of its age!

You'll find in the book a sort-of history of English embroidery. What the author sets out to do is to describe the trends in embroidery over the ages that mark works of embroidery as "English embroidery."

Again, keep in mind it's not a how-to book. You won't find information on stitching or assembly or anything like that - nothing about how to go about doing the types of embroidery discussed! Instead, Kendrick's intention is to define a type of embroidery ("English embroidery") by showing the reader, with pictures and descriptions, what exemplifies this type of embroidery.

The book spans the early Middle Ages through the 18th century, and treats each era in a brief way, slotting typical existing pieces into the era in which they belong. He describes some pieces in fairly good detail. The first half of the book is dedicated primarily to ecclesiastical embroidery. You'll be able to see photos of different pieces, mostly in black and white - although there are several color plates throughout the book.

From English Embroidery by A. F. Kendrick


About half way through the 125-page book, you'll arrive at secular embroidery of the 16th and 17th century. You'll find some plates displaying embroidered bags, as well as several plates on embroidered clothing. The book ends with the 18th century.

From English Embroidery by A. F. Kendrick


This plate, and the discussion of embroidered jackets, reminds me of the work going on at Plymoth Plantation on the 17th century embroidered jacket!

The book also has an extensive reference list and a good index.

Not long ago, I had the opportunity to explore A. G. Christie's book, English Medieval Embroidery, in the rare books section at a city library. Kendrick's book is a lot like it, but on a much (much!) smaller scale, covering a broader period of time. So if you've been interested to see what Christie's book is like, but haven't had the opportunity to visit a library to see it, you could take a look at this book to get a sense of it.

If you want to peruse the book at your leisure, download the PDF of English Embroidery by A. F. Kendrick, and enjoy!

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Sunday, June 29, 2008

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Letter K

Here's the next free monogram for hand embroidery... the letter K. At this rate, it should only take about ten forevers to finish one monogram alphabet! I may have to find a different approach! Be that as it may, in the meantime, I hope you are enjoying these particular embroidery designs!

In the previous articles featuring these free embroidery monograms, I've gone on at some length about techniques, so if you haven't read those, you might want to check out the posts on the letters A, C, G, and M. You can also visit my Index of Monograms for Hand Embroidery, which you'll find listed on my embroidery patterns page.

Without further ado, here's the K:



I tried cleaning this one up a little differently, scanning it first as a bmp, then cleaning it up and saving it as a gif. The others I worked on as jpgs, which allowed me a little more leeway in smoothing up the lines and filling in the gaps. I may have to go back to jpgs for the clean up...

But, whatever the case, enjoy the monograms!!

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Vintage Vogart Embroidery Transfers - The Cute Kind...

 
So do you LOVE them, or do you HATE them? Vintage Vogart embroidery transfers have made a big come-back in popularity, and a lot of younger generation embroiderers are not only stitching them, but are also collecting them.

There are many resources online about vintage Vogart embroidery transfers, but the nicest resources are the ones that provide cleaned up versions of the patterns, with a good index. By far the best one I've seen online is Floresita's "Hoop Love" page. The index includes mostly Vogart patterns, and some Walker's as well. Not all the patterns are cute little animals - floral motifs for bedroom linens can be found in there as well.

Great Resource for Vintage Vogart Embroidery Patterns


Here, you'll find vintage Vogart transfers cataloged by number and name, with a link to the website that hosts the design.

I've discussed these kinds of embroidery patterns with many embroiderers over the years - and what it boils down to, it seems to me, is that there are two schools of thought on them. They're either loved, or they're hated!

Perhaps I should say there are three schools of thought, because I fall somewhere in between. While I don't normally use the designs myself for my own projects, I do like them. I like their simplicity. I like the fact that they make embroidery accessible to beginners and that they give beginners and beyond a fun way to embroider something light.

I like the fact that kids LOVE these designs. They do! My little students in the summer really go for these, and it's so fun to see them get excited over them!

I like the fact that you can go a little further with them - you can embellish them beyond their original design. For example, I took a similar old Sunbonnet Sue pattern (not necessarily Vogart, but the concept's the same) and embellished her to the gills for a baby quilt, adding a garden and a bee and decorating her dress and bonnet. It was fun.

So I think it's a great thing that the patterns are collected and made available to you and me through the generous efforts of people like Floresita!

Think of all the people over the past decades who have really enjoyed stitching those patterns! Think of all the embroiderers who have developed a life-long love of stitching because they started on these patterns when their fingers were just learning to hold a needle! Think of all the grandmas who have stitched quilts for their grandchildren using the Vogart patterns, or the expectant moms, making their first Embroidered Something for their Little On-coming Offspring!

Yep. I belong to the third camp. And I like them.

Now, talk about controversy... what do YOU think? Are you first camp (love them), second camp (hate them), third camp (like me - you see something valuable in them, but don't necessarily stitch them for your own pleasure or purposes), or... are you completely and entirely indifferent to them???

I'd love to hear your opinion, your thoughts, your feelings, your observations, your experiences, and your reasons....!

And remember, you can always comment anonymously! ;-)

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Saturday, June 28, 2008

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: M

 
As promised, I'm adding the "M" to my index of monograms for hand embroidery. Here's the free embroidery pattern...

This was another messy monogram - when I scanned it, despite the resolution, I ended up with lots of broken or absent little line fragments, lots of fuzz, and there was also a slight wrinkle in the page, so a there was some creasing. Anyway, I think it's ok now to use for an embroidery pattern! It's no perfect graphic, but it will certainly serve for transferring an embroidery design, don't you think?

I'm slowly cleaning up the whole alphabet. In the order of "most wanted," the "S" will be up next. Then the "K" and the "V." So keep an eye out!

Here's the "M"...

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: The Letter M


Feel free to check out my Index of Monograms for Hand Embroidery for other letters.

Enjoy!

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Book Review: Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon Embroidery

 
Milner Craft Series has a new book out (as of March, 2008), called Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon, by Helen Dafter. I've just had the pleasure of perusing the book, which is a great resource for embroiderers interested in silk ribbon embroidery. So here's a review, with indications of what's in it, and what I like about it.

Whether you like silk ribbon embroidery for accenting crazy quilts, or you use silk ribbon flowers to embellish paper embroidery, or you dabble with silk ribbon to make articles for home decoration, the book Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon would be right up your alley.

Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon by Helen Dafter


True to the format of the Milner Craft Series books, you'll find all the useful background information on essential embroidery supplies, techniques, pattern transfer, and so forth at the beginning of the book. For the stitcher new to silk ribbon, there's a good bit of information on different types and sizes of ribbon and what they can be used for. You'll also find a good stitch dictionary for the various silk ribbon stitches employed in the book, as well as for regular embroidery stitches that accent a silk ribbon piece.

Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon by Helen Dafter


But, as usual, what I find most enticing are the projects! In this book, they are arranged according to flower. You'll find projects for all kinds of flowers: lavendar, violas, grape hyacinth, gardenias, daffodils, gerbera daisies, camellia sasanqua (new one to me...), cornflower, flannel flower, roses, crab apple, and daisies.

Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon by Helen Dafter


In each project section, you'll find a general blurb about the flower, as well as a watercolor interpretation of it. The watercolors are very handy, because it gives you a sense of the shading, position, placement, growth pattern, and artistic look of the flower.

You'll also find information on what stitches are used to produce a realistic flower using silk ribbon.

Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon by Helen Dafter


You'll also get a photo of the finished project. I love seeing photographs of finished pieces when I'm working on something - they give an invaluable guideline for producing what you're trying to produce!

Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon by Helen Dafter


And, of course, you'll also find the pattern for the piece, in a black and white line drawing suitable for tracing.

Again, the projects are arranged according to flower, rather than according to ease of work. I think that's ok, though. The book is thorough enough to give the beginner a good resource to learn the techniques, and at the same time, it's diverse enough to enchant the expert with inspirational material!

Even though I don't use silk ribbon too often, I'm always thrilled when I finish a silk ribbon project. My most recent venture in silk ribbon was this little box decorated with silk ribbon embroidery, and other than that, I've done several greeting cards and other little pieces over the years. I've also used silk ribbon as accents on different embroidery pieces, like notebook covers and whatnot.

Do you want to know what I like best about silk ribbon embroidery, though? (Besides the fact that I think it's really pretty?) ... it's the fact that silk ribbon works up fast! With relatively few actual stitches, you can produce the item you're embroidering and see very quickly a finished piece coming together. A whole petal, or a stem, or a leaf, might just take one stitch! I love that!

What I like about this book is that it takes silk ribbon beyond just the basic quick stitching to a whole new level of realistic and beautiful interpretations of flowers - perfect for filling out any stitcher's repertoire!

So, if you like the idea of playing around with silk ribbons and trying out some pretty stitches for pretty results, take a look at Floral Interpretations for Silk Ribbon by Helen Dafter. The book is distributed in the US by Sterling Publishers, who produce a wonderful array of craft and needlework books. You can pick up the book through Amazon for less than $15, which is about $5 less than the publisher's price.

Enjoy!


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Friday, June 27, 2008

Free Pattern: Monogram for Hand Embroidery - The Real C!

 
Sorry about that big blunder yesterday! If you want to embroider a "C" on something, here's the design for the monogram!

In case you're debating how to transfer your monogram to your fabric before embroidering it, there are a number of ways to do that. For the oatmean colored guest towel I embroidered, I used an iron-on transfer, so I didn't really have to deal with that issue. When you're printing a design, though, you do.

I find the most accurate way to get a pattern down for a project is to trace it. If you don't have a light box, use a sunny window, taping your pattern to the window and your fabric on top of your pattern. Use a regular #2 pencil and trace it lightly. If you're sure the design will be completely covered by your stitching, after you've traced it with the pencil, you can go over it with a fine-tipped micron art pen.

The pencil will wash out! I generally starch my fabric and iron it well before tracing on it with a pencil, and the pencil always washes out. The pen will not wash out.

And, as I've mentioned before, if you don't want to trace, you can always use dressmaker's carbon - or turn your design over and trace it with pencil on the wrong side, place the pattern on your fabric (pencil-traced side down), and, using a ball point pen or a stylus, trace over the pattern. In effect, you're just making your own carbon paper...

Anyway, I know I harp on the design transfer point a lot. It's one of those questions I get asked a lot!

Here's the C - yes, it's the C!! This design was pretty messy, so you can probably tell where I've reconstructed some of the lines. I probably should have just reconstructed (redrawn) the whole thing!

For other monograms, check out the Index of Monograms for Hand Embroidery!

Enjoy!

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Monogram of the Letter C


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Great New Embroidery Resource - for Free!

 
If you're not familiar with Inspirations Magazine published by Country Bumpkin, you are missing one of the greatest needlework publications ever! I really LOVE their magazine! It is one of the few superfluous indulgences I allow myself. It is, admittedly, rather pricey, but each issue is really such a joy to read, browse through, and linger over. So I do subscribe to Inspirations. If you can't afford the subscribe to the magazine, though, they do have some nice little offerings on their website. Read on, and I'll tell you about them!

Before I venture too far in singing the glories of this Pinnacle of Embroidery Perfection that I tend to think Inspirations is, I should note (in case you're suspicious of my motives!) that I'm not at all affiliated with Country Bumpkin, except for being a loyal customer for many years! I get such pleasure out of the magazine, that I can't help telling other people about it...

Anyway, on with it...

Country Bumpkin is always trying to improve their website and build a really excellent resource for hand embroiderers and smockers. Working towards this goal, they've recently added some free "e-books" to their website.

E-books are electronic books that you download in PDF format. Country Bumpkin is presently offering two free e-books: one on Bullion Roses and one on Picture Smocking for Beginners. The hitch is, you have to become a member - but membership is free. And as a member, you can participate in their forum, where you can find inspiration and advice from other stitchers, and you can receive notification of sales and events. You can also go to their My Designs page and download several free embroidery designs created by expert needlework designers. So all in all, it's a really good deal!!

If you're passionate about embroidery, I think you'll find at least a few things on the Country Bumpkin website that please you. And if you'd like a taste of Country Bumpkin quality, but are hesitant to swallow the price tag of their publications, do at least take advantage of their free offerings. As their site expands and they continue in their endeavors to create and maintain this wonderful online resource, I bet they'll probably be offering more good stuff!

Enjoy!

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Thursday, June 26, 2008

G or C - An Apology!

 
I've made a slight, but rather obvious, blunder... if you want to embroider the "C" I posted earlier today, please, please wait!

It's a "G." I was cleaning up another monogram and flipping through my scanned images... wishing they weren't quite so messy... when I came across the C. They look a little bit alike, with the exception of the appendage on the front and the longer tail!

I'll clean up the C and post it, hopefully today to make up for my error! And I'll fix the index, too.

Ah me. Sometimes I wonder....

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Monograms for Hand Embroidery Index

 
I'm using this page to create an index for monogram patterns used for hand embroidery. As I clean up some old monogram patterns I have, I'll post them and add them to this index. I'll include a picture of one letter, so you can see what the monogram style looks like, and then links to the individual patterns for the monograms. I hope you find these patterns useful and inspiring for your needlework endeavors!

For each letter of each alphabet, there will be a post with a full sized pattern on it. I'll also include tips on how it might be hand embroidered. The individual letters are links to each full-sized monogram.

Flowered Monograms from La Broderie Blanche, 1912


Monogram Alphabet for Hand Embroidery


A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z


Celtic Knotwork Monograms

This set, from Journal des Demoiselles, features a specked area inside the curves of loose knotwork.
Free Monongrams for Hand Embroidery: Celtic Knotwork Monograms


A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z


Keep an eye out for future updates to the alphabet and additions of new alphabets.

Please note that all images here, to the best of my knowledge, are out of copyright. They come from old publications of magazines or needlework flyers that I'm trying to collect, most from the early 1900's. If you wish to link to these on your own website, please feel free to do so. If you wish to add the images to your own website, I ask that you please note Needle 'n Thread as the source, with a link. Thanks!

I'm always happy to hear about sources for these old publications, so if you know of any sources or have any that you are interested in selling, please contact me.

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Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Monogram C - and Avoiding Satin Stitch!

 
I'm doing some clean-up work on posting mistakes, so here is really the Letter C - but I will repost the letter G in its own spot. If you added the monogram for the G to your favorites, you'll want to visit the list of monograms and go to the "real" G! Thanks for understanding!

I'm sure I'm stating the obvious when I tell you that monograms don't have to be white, and they don't have to be embroidered in satin stitch! If satin stitch intimidates you, try other stitches! For example, a simple stitch combination is the whipped backstitch as an edge, and seed stitch as a filler. Although I've shown it before, here's a leaf worked in that combination:

Simple hand embroidery stitches can be used on monograms or other whitework for elegant results


These are two very easy stitches, and the nice thing is that the whipped backstitch can be a very precise stitch, so it takes curves and points very well.

But for some of you, it may not be Intimidation by Satin Stitch that inhibits you from embroidering monograms. It may be that the satin stitch just doesn't thrill you.

If this is the case, you have GOT to check out Paule's website, where you will see a gorgeous variety of stitches used on monograms, in beautiful shades of roses and reds. They are stunning, and so perfectly stitched. Look, for example, at the "B" and "T" worked in feather stitch, or the outlined "O." Aren't they pretty? If you take the opportunity to browse through the images of Paule's sampler, I think you'll find some very inspiring ideas for working monograms!

So it's pretty feasible to embroider a monogram and completely avoid the satin stitch altogether. If nothing else, you could have fun experimenting with all kinds of stitch combinations!

Here's the "C," then:

Monogram for Hand Embroidery - Letter C


Once the clean up work is done on the "M," I'll post it - and the "S" seems to be a popular request, too. If you haven't seen it yet, you can find the "A" here.

I'm also going to make up a monogram index page to make finding them a lot easier! I'll list that under my index of hand embroidery patterns, which probably needs the same kind of attention I gave my gallery last week!

Enjoy!

For more monogram patterns, please visit my Index of Monograms for Hand Embroidery.

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Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Free Pattern: Monogram for Hand Embroidery

 
Since we're on the subject of hand embroidered monongrams (are you sick of it yet?!), I thought I'd share with you an alphabet! Unfortunately, it has to come in bits and pieces, since it requires a lot of clean-up work!

Here's the first letter! This is taken from an old publication (1912) called La Broderie Blanche, an old French magazine that sported lots of embroidery patterns. The image is not as clean as I would like, but it does suffice for a pattern!

You can enlarge the monogram or reduce it either on your computer or on a photocopier. An easy way to transfer the monogram onto white fabric is to use a sunny window. Tape the monogram onto a sunny window, tape your fabric over it, and trace it. If you have a light box, it may save your arm a bit!

You can also trace the monogram onto good tracing paper (use red ink), then turn the paper over and trace over the design with either a regular #2 pencil or with a white dressmaker's pencil (if you're transfering onto darker fabric). Place the monogram red-ink side up on your fabric where you want it, and use a ball point pen (don't break through the paper!) and trace back over the monogram. This should transfer your design clearly enough to see it, and then you can go back and touch up if needed.

Anyway, here's the A. I'll post the rest of the alphabet as I get it cleaned up.

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Monogram, Letter A


Ain't it perty? I love this alphabet! I like it a lot better than the one I used on my guest towel project; it just lacks the convenience of an iron-on.

As far as embroidering, and what stitches to use, it really depends on your project. If you're doing something large, like a pillow case or sheets, or something medium-sized like a guest towel, you could outline the letter and fill in with tiny seed stitches, then satin stitch the flower petals and leaves, which would give a nice, light effect, and good contrast in texture and so forth. If you're doing something small, like a hanky, I'd probably go with overcast (barely padded, if at all) satin stitch. For hankies, the monogram needs to be pretty small, so in reducing this, I think you'd get to the point where you wouldn't have double lines on some parts of the letter. I think overcasting would work well in areas like that.

If anyone's positively antsy for a specific letter, let me know! I'll skip ahead.

For more monogram patterns, please visit my Index of Monograms for Hand Embroidery.

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Monday, June 23, 2008

Hand Embroidered Monogram - Finished Guest Towel

 
The hand-embroidered monogram I've been working up on a guest towel is finally finished! The whole point of this "little" project was to work it up as a class sample, so I tracked the statistics on it so I would know how to gauge our class time and our supplies. So here's the finished product, with the final statistics on how long it took to embroidery the piece, how much thread, etc.

Time-wise, it took me about 8 hours and 15 minutes to embroider the monogram. A little bit of that time was taken up in removing stitches (I started with the wrong sized thread, for example, and at another point, I didn't like the shape of some of the petals on the ornamentation, so I took those out, too). The majority of the time was just regular stitching, though. I didn't rush, really, and, looking back on the project now, I think I could've sped it up a bit if there had been any real pressure to get it done faster.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


After I finished the embroidery, I filled a glass bowl with cool water and rinsed the piece. I let it soak about 10 minutes, and then smoothed it onto a towel to dry.

Before it was completely dry (still a little damp), I ironed it, wrong side up, on several layers of flannel covered with a pillow case. It's important, especially with any raised embroidery like this, to place the piece on something well-padded when you iron, in order to avoid crushing the stitches.

Now, keep in mind that, as a guest towel, it is reasonable that this thing will have to be washed. So I didn't treat it with any kind of ginger care or anything. I treated it like a household linen that would go through a regular washing and ironing process! The only exception is padding the surface of the ironing board really well, and ironing on the wrong side of the work.

After it was all ironed and ready to show off, I took it outside to photograph it, since the light was pretty good!

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And there's the completed piece. I do like the natural colored linen. I was thinking I might touch up that drawn thread edge with white stitching, just to set it off, but perhaps not. It might look too "accented," if you know what I mean! What do you think?

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And here's a close up.

Overall, I'm pleased with the way it turned out. It's always a good thing to work through a project that you're going to be teaching, so that you can know what points will need careful instruction and so forth. So I'm glad I managed to work up the whole sample. It isn't perfect, which is good - so I know the pitfalls when I teach the monogram!

By the way, I used about 35 strands of #20 coton a broder, and the strands were about 14" long, so about 13.6 yards of thread (I think that's about half a skein, maybe...)

Now, I'm off to prepare for my Monday morning class, which is the youngest group of children. I spent days and days last week (it seemed like years and years) tracing designs on towels, ironing, separating threads, and on and on. And here it is, Monday morning, and guess what? I'm not ready! Aaaack!

I'll be showing you some other samples and classwork along the way. Hope you enjoyed the monogram!

You can follow this project step by step with the following links:

Part I - Setting up, transferring design, discussion of supplies, and beginning the stitching.

Part II - Continuing the stitching, discussion on working padded satin stitch, stitches used, and some trouble-shooting.

Part III - Discussing taking the curves with satin stitch: how to work around the tight curves in a monogram, stitch direction, and so forth.



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Saturday, June 21, 2008

Needle 'n Thread: A Little Bit of Organization!

 
I (finally!) reorganized a long-neglected page here on Needle 'n Thread!

When I started the Gallery: Posts with Pictures index, I had every intention of adding all needlework photos to a long list, so that you could browse through it at your leisure.

I quickly realized it was turning into an ungainly, unsightly mess, but I didn't have time to really sort it out. So, slowly but surely over the last couple weeks, I've been sorting, updating, and cleaning up that list! I'm kind of happy with the effort, though I must admit it's hard to decide what goes in what category!

Anyway, if you haven't noticed it, at the top of the right hand column on each page, there's a section called "The Editor's Floss" (that's a take-off, by the way, on the term "editor's gloss," which is a summarization that an editor might make of a more complicated subject!). Under the Editor's Floss, you'll find indexes of the major categories on Needle 'n Thread.

If you haven't visited my Gallery recently, do stop in! I never realized I'd have quite so many photos on Needle 'n Thread, but the funny thing is, that's not all of them! I've just included major articles!

You can also browse through pictures on Needle 'n Thread by clicking on the label "pictures" or "needlework pictures" at the bottom of posts with pictures (or with needlework pictures).

So even though today's post isn't full of photos, you'll find plenty just waiting for you if you browse through the gallery! Have fun and have a Terrific Weekend!

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Friday, June 20, 2008

Hand Embroidered Monogram: Taking the Curves with Satin Stitch

 
Continuing on the the embroidered monogram on a linen guest towel, today I want to show you how to manuever around curves with padded satin stitch. If you haven't read the articles yet on the guest towel, you might want to check out the first article on setting up the guest towel and the second article with an update on the stitching.

These are photos of the curves on the "B" monogram. Satin stitch takes curves - even tight curves - well, if you keep in mind the concept of "fanning" your stitches. I want to show you two things in this post: 1. the pictures without any markings, so you can see the stitches; and 2. the pictures of the embroidery with lines showing the change in direction on the stitching.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


Here's the curly-que tail on the back of the "B."

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


Here's the base of the back of the "B."

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


Here's the tight loop on the inside of the front of the "B."

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And the inside of the front of the "B," from a different angle.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And this is the curl at the top of the front of the "B."

The curly-que on the back tail of the "B" and the inside loop on the front of the "B" are the tightest curves. The principles are the same, whether you're working on a tight curve or a gradual curve, so we're going to look at the tight curves, since they are usually the more difficult to work around!

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


When you're working around a curve - whether tight or gradual - your stitch direction changes. You want to ease your way around the curve, but in tight spots, that easing has to be done a little more dramatically!

So as you work around a curve, you fan your stitches. The stitches on the inside of the curve need to be a lot closer than the stitches on the outside. But the trick is to not overlap the stitches, no matter how close they are on the inside; otherwise you'll lose the smooth effect of the satin stitching.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


This photo shows a bit better the dramatic change in direction. The outside of the curve (especially when working a padded satin stitch, as the padding helps hide the fabric underneath) can even be spaced a bit further apart than normal, in order to compensate as you work around the tighter curve. However, if you aren't padding your stitches, you'll want to make sure there is complete coverage of the ground fabric.

The trick to making tight loops look good is keeping your stitches as close as possible on the inside of the loop, without allowing them to overlap, and spacing them "just far enough apart" on the outside to allow them to fan properly and to get your stitches going in the direction you want them to go!

Satin stitching on a curve is not hard - it just takes practice. One thing that might help is trying your stitches from different directions. Try coming up on the inside and going down on the outside of the loop. If this doesn't work well for you, turn it around - go up on the outside and down on the inside. Stick with what works best for you. I bring my needle to the front of the fabric on the inside of the loop and take it down on the outside, because I think it's easier to see exactly the stitch direction.

Another helpful trick, if you're not padding your satin stitches, is to mark your stitch directions in pencil inside the lines. This will help guide you around the curve. If you are padding your satin stitches, you could use a contrasting color of thread - just regular sewing thread works! - and baste in some directional lines that can be pulled out when you're finished with the curve.

Ok, I'm going to finish this project today, so I'll post photos of the completed monogrammed towel, washed and pressed and ready for display as a class sample, soon!

If you're taking up a monogramming project, feel free to send me a photo! I'd love to see other people's work!

This project is in four articles, besides this article. You can find the other parts of the project through the following links:

Part I: setting up the project, transferring the design, discussion of threads

Part II: stitching, information on padded satin stitch and other stitches employed, some trouble shooting.

Part III: that's this article!

Part IV: The finished guest towel!

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Thursday, June 19, 2008

Using Iron-On Embroidery Patterns: Ironing On a Repeat Pattern

 
Previously, I mentioned that we're using iron-on patterns for my embroidery classes this summer. Actually, I'm beginning to re-think that! Ironing on a repeat pattern can be a bit of a hassle! Still, it worked, so I thought I'd show you how I did it.

The first embroidery project that I mentioned using an iron-on pattern was the monogrammed linen guest towel. Putting the pattern on the guest towel as a pretty simply endeavor - it was just one letter, after all.

But I wanted to iron on a repeat patter, to decorate the edge of a kitchen towel. So I contemplated how to line things up and get the pattern on the towel in such a way that the design - a straight line of flower-like motifs - began and ended with the same figure.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


This is the pattern - it begins with the 8-pointed spoke, and ends with the four-petaled flower thing. If you transfer it once, then repeat it, your beginning motif and ending motif won't be the same... you could flip the pattern, but then you'll end up with two of the same figures in the middle. So that's something I had to take into consideration.

I knew that the design had to be centered, and that it had to be lined up with the base of the towel. To mark the center of the towel and the line along which to transfer the pattern, I thought about using a pencil. However, I didn't want to risk leaving a residue that might not disappear, especially considering that the heat from the iron might set the pencil marks. I also thought about a water-soluble pen, but this presented the same problem - you shouldn't iron over water-soluble ink, because it sets with the heat.

Soooooo. This is what I did.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


First, I laid the towel out to measure it and to check how the repeat pattern would fit. I figured it would take two patterns, plus one of the single motifs. Then I measured up my towel and prepared to mark it.

Instead of using anything that leaves an actual mark on the fabric, I decided to use a little bone folding tool. These are tools that are usually sold in the paper crafts area of craft stores. They're used to score paper to make a folding line. Alternately, you can use a piece of sanded, smooth wood with a tip on it, or a burnisher used in other art forms, or probably even the back of a kitchen knife (not the serrated edge!).

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


I lined up the towel on a straight edge, then measured up a couple inches, where I wanted the top of my design to be. In measuring, I noticed that the fabric was not exactly cut on the grain. It's just slightly off. I was tempted to follow the grain of the fabric, but that would've made the design slightly crooked. So I measured from the base of the hemline on the towel and kept the line even.

I used a ruler as a guide, and drew the bone paper scoring tool firmly across the line which would mark the top of the design.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


This left a definite crease in the fabric.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


Then I measured the center point, and used the same tool to mark the center of the towel. Now I had my positioning marks in place, without using anything that actually marked the fabric.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


After this, I took my pattern and carefully measured it, marking on the back side (the un-inked side) a quarter inch line. This is what I used to line up the design with the mark on the towel.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


I pinned the iron-on transfer ink-side down onto the towel in the correct position.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


Pinning the pattern is essential for ironing on a repeat embroidery design! If you eyeball it without pinning it, and you apply the iron, you risk not getting a transfer and having to re-apply the iron-on, which is virtually impossible.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


Whenever I'm ironing anything for embroidery, I always use an old pillow case underneath the piece. The instructions recommend putting something over your ironing board cover, anyway, in case the ink bleeds through.

So I applied the iron to the back side of the pattern for about 10 seconds, as prescribed in the instructions in the iron-on transfer book. When you do this, it's important to place the iron directly on the transfer, apply firm pressure, and don't move the iron back and forth.

And this is what I got for the first transfer:

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


The picture is partly blurry (out of focus), but so is the design on the fabric. The ink, especially with the first transfer, seemed to fuzz out a bit - not actually bleed in an irreparable way, but just "spread" in a kind of fuzzy way. This may very well be the quality of the transfer. I did not notice anything like this on the monogram.

Anyway, after you've held the iron on for the prescribed amount of time, unpin one corner of your design and check the transfer. You want to make certain it transfers! And if you take the pattern off, and only part of the design transferred, you're pretty much sunk, as it's really hard - if not impossible - to place the design in the exact same spot. And if you don't, you end up with duplicate lines (like double vision!).

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


Now it's time to line up the next repeat. By the way, I suggest using pins with a steel head or a glass head, because it is likely the iron will have to rest on the pins.

With the second application of the transfer, you will need to hold the iron on a bit longer.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


You can see that the transfer is not nearly as dark the second time. But I prefer it like this! It's visible enough to embroider over, but not dark enough (and the lines aren't wide enough) to worry about not being able to cover it up.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


Still, part of the repeat didn't transfer, so I applied the iron for a few more seconds - and I ended up with a sort-of dark pattern in some areas.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


Now there's the question of the "balance" of the design. I wanted the whole line to begin and end with the same figure, the 8-spoke little design. So I cut my transfer, and isolated that one figure. I measured the distance from the center of the flower to the center of the spoke design, and lined up the isolated piece.

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


And I ironed it and checked it - very pale on the third application, but that's ok! I like it that way. So I left it.

In some of the books I was using, they suggest placing aluminum foil under your fabric before ironing on a used transfer, to increase the strength of the pattern. I don't know if this technique works - I should try it! - and I don't know if it's applicable to just a certain type of iron-on pattern. If anyone's tried that, I'd love to hear about how it works!

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


So that's the extra motif...

How to Iron On Transfer a Repeat Pattern for Hand Embroidery


And that's the center of the towel. You can definitely see the difference between the first transfer and the second!

The whole process was somewhat time consuming, but not that bad, actually. If I were doing a stack of towels, I'd do each step at the same time on all the towels, then move on to the next step. That might speed the process up!

If you have any input or advice on ironing on a pattern, or a repeat, do share!

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Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel, Part II

 
Following up on my first article about hand embroidering a monogram on a linen guest towel, where you'll get details of supplies and technique, I thought I'd show you progress on the monogram and discuss the importance of precision in the outline.

After I finished the tip of the B, I continued backstitching the outline of the letter.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


Now, this is the thing: when you're stitching your outline, it is best, on the long stretches, to work with relatively longer stitches, so that you get a smooth, flowing line. As you work into the curves, your outlining stitches can shorten up a bit, in order to take the curves well.

My stitches here could have been a little longer. The difficulty is that, with shorter stitches, you tend to focus more on the fabric than on the smooth flow of stitches. And when you're focusing closely on the fabric, you end up naturally wanting to stitck your needle into the holes corresponding with the threads in the fabric, rather than sticking faithfully to the sweep of the line. So the result can end up a bit bumpy.

In the long run, you'll be much happier if you take your time with the outlining steps - make sure that your lines are nice and smooth, because you'll be using them to hold the edge of your satin stitch. A messy satin stitch on a monogram is never desirable, so take good care while you're outling - it will save you frustration later!

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


When you look up close at the backstitching, you can see where the line jiggles in and out a bit. In the long run, the slight variation in the line didn't bother me too much, but I kept an eye out for it and compensated with my satin stitches.

The white little blob inside the lines of the letter (upper left of stitching) is where I ended my threads. Since that area is going to be covered anyway, I began my stitching by taking about three tiny little stitches into each other, inside the lines of the letter.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And here you see the back of the stitching so far.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


When you see even more of the backstitching, you can see the jiggling of the line. Tsk tsk!

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And, the back of that - a combination of stem stitch and split stitch show up on the back. These stitches on the back will be mostly covered up by the satin stitching, although often you'll get a little border of half-stitches along the satin stitch line on the back, because the stitches tend to be split as you pass your needle to the back.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


The purpose of this photo is two-fold: 1. you can see the height on the embroidery; and 2. to show you again how I'm ending my threads - you can see the white marks inside the letter lines again. These are just little tiny stitches taken into each other; they serve to anchor the thread very well. As long as you're covering up the area with other stitches, this is a great way to begin or end your threads.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


The outlining on the whole "B" is almost finished!

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


Ah, I like this! See the thread ring? Those are great for hitching up your whitework threads. Coton a broder, when left in the skein form, doesn't operate like regular stranded floss - it doesn't "pull" out of the skein. To make it easy to take a length of thread, I precut the skein in two pieces, to make about 14" - 15" lengths of thread, which I hitch up on a large thread ring. (This is a mother of pearl thread ring, large size, from Kelmscott Design). Then you can just pull your thread straight from the front cross over on the ring, without untying the bunch (the same way I did with the kids' threads and the craft foam mentioned yesterday).

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And, the back of the "B."

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


With the complete outline finished, it's time to put the padding stitches in!

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


Here's a close-up on the padding stitching - long stitches filling in the centers of the letter lines.

Hand Embroidered Monogram on Linen Guest Towel


And, finally, satin stitching over the padding, from the base of the B up. I also added some of the vine and flowers, so I could see what it would look like when finished. Notice that when you outline your satin stitch area and pad it, then satin stitch it, you end up with a slightly larger sized design. The little petals on that inside flower sure didn't look that big before they were stitched. Still, I like them.

So there's the progress on the monogram - what think you so far?? You'll hopefully see the grand finale on this one before the week's up! Holy cow! I better be finished by then!

This project was written up in four articles, including this one. You can view the progress on the whole project through the following links:

Part I - setting up, transferring design, discussion of materials, beginning stitching

Part II - (that's this one)

Part III - taking the curves with satin stitch - stitch direction and working around tight curves with satin stitch.

Part IV - the finished project!

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Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Setting Up a Kids' Embroidery Class - and Thread Organizers

 
As I prepared for my first kids' embroidery class for this summer, I realized that organization really IS everything. Whenever you teach a class - or prepare a new embroidery project - or cook a recipe - or anything that requires multiple parts to come together smoothly and conveniently, preparing in advance is essential. Any good school teacher knows this. Even if you're running a casual summer embroidery class, the rule holds true. I found that out this morning!

My preparation for my summer embroidery classes began weeks ago, as you know. I've talked a lot about it (I hope I'm not boring you to death!), and I've done a lot of thinking, stitching, writing notes, ordering materials and all the stuff that goes with getting ready to get ready. And that's just it - that was just the background work. Then the real work comes!

As the first class date approached, it was time to actually put everything together for a smooth beginning. So this is what I was looking at this past weekend:

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


I spent a couple days cutting fabric, separating threads, and putting together each "kit" project for the first class of the first week (I have three kids' classes I'm doing this summer - this is only one of them!) for the first group (ages 7 - 9 years old).

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


Yeah. The front view wasn't so bad - it's the side view across the room that becomes a bit discouraging!

But no worries!! All the background work is absolutely worth it. After the felt, threads, needles, and everything were sorted, pieces cut, designs drawn, everything was cleaned up and put away, the floor swept, and each child's place set up.

When the children came in this morning, they were met with this:

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


Nine chairs for nine children - each place with a sampler cloth and a bookmark kit.

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


Here you have the "place setting."

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


To the top right, the blue square is a piece of 3 mm. craft foam, cut in a small rectangle. This has one threaded needle stuck in it, ready to go.

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


The red square to the top left of each place setting is also 3 mm thick craft foam. I used a single hole punch, and punched out about a 6-hole hole. In that hole, I looped their sampler threads. You may be familiar with thread rings, thread keeps, and so forth. Well, this is thread foam. I made it up, but it does work! I wanted some way to keep their threads more organized than just stuffing them in a plastic bag, so, modeling the foam on the idea of thread cards and thread keeps, I tried it, and I liked it! More on this concept, up close down below.

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


Above the place setting is the bookmark kit, ready to go. It contains the felt front, with the design drawn on, the felt backing already cut with the scalloped edge, a needle, and coordinating threads.

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


The sampler is a piece of medium weight (clothes quality) linen (I picked up 5 yards on sale for practically nothing!), with a butterfly outlined on it, and the butterfly has lines across the wings. I'll give you specifics on these little practice pieces when I have some finished ones to photograph! As they are here, they're rather plain.

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


And finally, just to go back to my thread foam a bit... this is a great way to keep thread ready for class use. After punching the holes in the foam, I folded the collection of threads in half and stuck the half fold in the hole, forming a loop. Then I put the ends of the thread "rope" through the loop and hitched it to the foam.

You might think that every time you want a thread off such an apparatus, you have to undo the loop, but not so!

Setting up a Hand Embroidery Class for Kids


You simply select the thread you want from the front of the looped threads, and pull it straight out. You don't have to undo your loop - you just pull it out, and there it is!

I know it's a simple concept, but I'll tell you why it thrills me. I've lost more money on threads over the years, because kids tend to stuff them in bags or just put them in their sewing box, where they automatically mix up, generally into a knotted mess. This way, I have quantity control over the threads, and the kids are more careful with them, too.

Using the craft foam to make these thread keeps was a last minute idea. Craft foam can be puchased at any craft store for about 79 cents a sheet. The sheet can be cut into multiple small rectangles - and it's much sturdier than regular poster board or card stock for holding threads this way. I had a bunch of the foam on hand, because I'm using it as paper-piercing mats (for embroidered cards) with the older class. While I was setting up the place settings, I mused over how to solve my thread dilemma - and the idea of the foam popped into my head. I had so much fun setting these little things up, and I really think the kids like them, too!

So there's a cheap way to organize threads for a project. I haven't tested the colorfast qualities of craft foam, nor do I know the long term effect it might have on threads, but for this short term use, it seems like a great idea.

So that's the set up for classes. The first day, the kids learn three stitches: running stitch, whipped running stitch, and backstitch. They practice all three on their butterflies, and then they apply what they learn to their bookmarks.

The two hour session today went really well, and I think that goes back to organization. The kids made good progress. Alas, I took no photos! Next week, next week.... Now, if I could only get the next classes that ready, I'll be really happy!

If you've got any nifty organizational ideas or anything that you think would be useful to know in classroom situations, please share! I'm all ears!

See you tomorrow!

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Monday, June 16, 2008

Interesting Needlework Site... And a Question!

 
Well, it isn't embroidery, but it IS needlework! There are a lot of sites out there on knitting and crochet - but I came across this one that looks as if it's just starting out, and it promises some interesting stuff...

Hooked on Needles is a site dedicated to knitting and crochet. The name - which may conjure up images that aren't quite related to homey arts - implies that there's more to it than just crochet and knitting, though, as needles are used in --- well, seems obvious to say --- other kinds of needlework, too. And in scrolling through the site, I did see some samples of embroidery (on an Irish dancing dress) and a crocheted lace collar.

But what really hooked me (SORRY! I couldn't help it!) are the photo tutorials on the baby's crocheted hat (looks very simple - like I might even accomplish it!) and changing color in crochet.

Tutorial for crocheted baby hat from Hooked on Needles


Back in the day, for a needleworker to be considered "trained" (and I think the same holds true, actually, today in some professional courses!), they had to know the basics of more than just the kind of needlework they were passionate about. To be a well-rounded textile artist, being familiar with other elements of the textile world is a good thing.

I don't claim to be a "textile artist" - embroidery is my hobby - but I do like the idea of a well-rounded education. I bet that even the best painters who work in oil have at least an understanding of how water-colors work, don't you think?

So I started looking into polishing up my crocheting, with the end in mind of doing some tiny crocheted trim for an embroidered piece. And then I landed at this particular website and liked, especially, the hat tutorial and the one on changing colors. I started thinking that you could put the two tutorials together, and make a Really Cute and Colorful baby hat!

Don't get me wrong, though! I'm not going to yarn! My needle 'n thread will continue to be occupied (obsessed, even) with embroidery! But what do YOU think? Do you think it's useful for the embroiderer to be at least somewhat aware of other needlework techniques, such as knitting and crochet? Or do you think that, for embroiderers to become Really Good at what they do, they should focus solely on embroidery and not get distracted by other possible needlework interests? I'd love to hear your thoughts on that!

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Sunday, June 15, 2008

Embroidery Book Reviews: Iron-on Transfers

 
I mentioned in yesterday's post (the beginning of a monogrammed linen guest towel) that, to make my embroidery classes a little easier this summer, and to eliminate the time for transferring designs, I decided to go with iron-on transfers. I think there's a knack to ironing on a transfer - you'd think it wouldn't be that big of a deal, but I'm finding that it actually is.

As I started looking for suitable iron-on transfer books for the embroidery classes, I concentrated on monograms first. We're embroidering a selection of different household linens, and monograms always work great for any kind of linen in the home, I think. Even kitchen towels are suitable for a monogram! (Like this monogrammed kitchen towel my mom received for her wedding 51 years ago, hand embroidered by a friend - and it's still being used!)

I started searching, and I came up with several iron-on monogram books that I purchased, to add to a few books I already have.

First off, are two books by Leisure Arts, called Monograms & More, and Monograms & More, Book 2.

Iron-on Monograms: Monograms and More from Leisure Arts


I like both books a lot - there's quite a variety of styles of monograms in both books.

Iron-on Monograms: Monograms and More, Book 2, from Leisure Arts


If I were selecting one or the other, between the two books, I think I like Book 2 best. I took the "B" from the sample I'm working from an alphabet in Book 2. I'm glad I got the first one, though, too, because now I have a wide variety of alphabets.

I also picked up R