Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Little Project: Embroidered Baby Booties

I like these little booties - they aren't finished yet, but here are some photos so far. I'll tell you what I did, and then didn't do, and then did again....

I've got the embroidery finished on half a baby bootie - it's not really very complex embroidery, as you can see! Just lazy daisy stitch, French knots, and tiny straight stitches.

Hand Embroidered Baby Booties


They look Humungous, don't they? More like whomping Baby Boots! Keep in mind that the cuff on top folds down (see below), and all the area that isn't stitched (around the base and up the back) is the seam allowance. I kept folding the seam allowance in, because I had to convince myself they were little, teeny tiny booties, not massive toddler whomping moon boots.

Hand Embroidered Baby Booties


This is the cuff pinned down, so you can see the contrast. The red dots will be eyelets.

Ok, what I did about the violet:

I didn't like the match of the purples - I thought the floche was just "off" - so I matched and bought a skein of DMC that I thought I would like better. It seemed ok in the store. I picked out all the violet flowers. I started stitching with the new DMC color.

I cringed.

I picked out all the new DMC color.

I started stitching again with the floche.

And in the scheme of things, I like it much better, even if it's not quite the same color - it's close enough!

My favorite part so far, though:

Hand Embroidered Baby Booties


I'm quite taken with the little eyelets. They look like nostrils.

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Monday, September 29, 2008

Needlework Shop, Information Source, and Free Patterns

A favorite online shop for embroidery supplies is Nordic Needle, located in North Dakota. Yep, they're great for special ordering tools, supplies, and so forth, but did you know they also have general information about embroidery-related topics on their website?

I subscribe to the Nordic Needle newsletter - and lately, they've run some good information articles in there. For example, you'll find three thorough articles on the different types of threads in some of their past issues: Threads 1, Threads 2, Threads 3. You'll find all kinds of information about the various embroidery threads available on the market in those articles. Conveniently enough, you'll also find links to the same threads on their website, in case you're looking for any particular threads.

Under the Resources section of Nordic Needle, you'll find some interesting stuff in the column on the left, including conversion tools (I'd like to see this category expand a bit), stitching tips and tutorials, and a whole slew of free needlework patterns.

I like the new look of Nordic Needle's website. They recently revamped it, and I think, overall, it looks better and is easier to get around on, though I'm still "finding my way," after being used to the old site for a while.

If you haven't signed up for their newsletter, you might want to. It's often full of useful information for the needleworker. I think, one of these days, they'll probably change the purple background on the newsletter, too!

Anyway, when you have time to browse about, check out Nordic Needle - they've been around in the business for a long time, and they're a good resource for information and supplies.

I hope your weekend went well and you were able to accomplish all that you wanted to accomplish! I managed finishing my current goldwork project and embroidering half of one baby bootie (a quarter of the way through the pair). Pictures soon!

Enjoy your Monday!

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Sunday, September 28, 2008

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Celtic C

Continuing on with the latest monogram alphabet for your hand embroidery projects, featuring a kind of Celtic-flavor alphabet of loose knotwork - here's the letter C.

I posted stitching ideas for this alphabet with the letter A, if you're looking for any ideas on how to embroider these letters.

Here's the small version of the C:

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Celtic C


Here's the large version:

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Celtic C


For more monograms for hand embroidery, visit my index of monograms, which can be found under Free Hand Embroidery Patterns here on Needle 'n Thread.

Enjoy!

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Starting Your Thread: Anchor Stitches on a Line

 
Continuing with the various ways you can start and end your threads in hand embroidery, this picture tutorial shows you how to use anchor stitches when embroidering a line. If you're not familiar with this method of starting threads, you might find it a bit strange, but bear with me! Read through the tutorial, and you'll see why it's useful to know how to do this.

Using this technique for starting your threads only requires you to work from the front of the fabric. You don't have to turn your fabric over to run your threads under anything, and you don't have to keep a finger on the back of your threads to make sure you're crossing over the thread on the back. This is straight-forward, front-of-the-work stuff. Knowing how to start a thread working solely from the front of your work - and still not using a knot - can be very handy...

This works best with a thicker line stitch. If you're working a very fine stem stitch line, or a back stitch line, you might prefer a regular waste knot. Still, you'd be surprised how invisible you can make these anchor stitches, even on relatively fine lines.

I'm going to be stitching this line with the heavy chain stitch.

Method of Work

Begin by placing a knot near the end of your thread. Here, I've left a tail that's unnecessarily long. You don't have to have a long tail - the closer your knot is to the end of your thread, the less thread you use. However, you do want enough of a tail after the knot to be able to pull up on your thread before you cut it.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Within an inch (or even half an inch) of your starting point, take your needle from the front to the back of your work so that the knot is on the top of your work.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Between the knot and your starting point, take one tiny backstitch. Here, because this is a loosely woven fabric, I can easily take a stitch over one thread. In a fine, tightly woven fabric, you might pass over two threads. But you're aiming for a relatively tiny back stitch, in any case - over one or two threads of the fabric, depending on the weave of the fabric.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Working away from the knot and towards your starting point, bring your needle back up to the front of the work just on the other side of the tiny backstitch.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Now take your needle down into the middle of the backstitch, splitting it. As you pull this stitch, you want to apply enough tension to sink the stitch into the first backstitch. Don't pull so hard that you distort your fabric or stitches - just enough to pull the second stitch well into the first.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Still working away from the knot and towards your starting point, bring the needle back up to the front of your work, just on the other side of your second stitch...

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


...and take it back down into the stitch before. Essentially, you've just made three split stitches, only you're splitting your stitches from the top, rather than from underneath.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Pull that third stitch enough to bring it down into the second. Here, you can see it's sitting up a bit.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Pull up firmly on your thread tail, and snip off the knot, right above the fabric. The thread will boing down to the other side of your fabric.

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


And now you're ready to stitch. Looks bulky, doesn't it? Hard to believe it can be covered and not noticeable...?

How to begin your embroidery thread: using anchor stitches on a line


Here's the beginning of that petal, worked in heavy chain, covering up those stitches. You'd be surprised, actually, how well these anchor stitches can be covered up with a line stitch, even line stitches finer than the heavy chain. I've used this method for regular stem stitch and the anchor stitches have been invisible.

Pros of Using Anchor Stitches on a Line

1. The technique doesn't require much thread, so there's very little waste.

2. You can work solely from the front of the fabric. This is especially handy when you're working on a larger piece that's a pain to turn over.

3. It's fast - there's no turning over, running under, or anything like that. You jump straight in to stitching.

Cons of Using Anchor Stites on a Line

1. On the very finest lines, they could be visible. But ... you can make them fairly invisible with a little practice.

2. I can't think of any other ones. Can you?

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Saturday, September 27, 2008

Saturday Play: Resurrecting a Random Sampler

 
A couple years ago, I wrote about a random sampler that I began on a road trip. Lost in the labyrinthine oblivion of my website, I didn't even have the post available in my gallery. But you know, I liked this piece.

I remember the pleasure I had working random stitches all over the place, doing whatever occurred to me, using whatever thread. There's a real pleasure in that. It's just so... random.

Hand Embroidery on Wool Felt: a Random Sampler with Lots of Stitching


I also remember having specific plans for the piece. Hahhahahaha.

Hand Embroidery on Wool Felt: a Random Sampler with Lots of Stitching


It has nestled, neglected, in a basket of other neglected scraps, trials and errors.

Hand Embroidery on Wool Felt: a Random Sampler with Lots of Stitching


But today, I'm resurrecting my Random Sampler! I'm going to go look at it again. I'm going to see if I can make something of it. I'm going to decide if I like it as well in person as I think I remember. And then... if I do, I'm going to finish it into something.

I have no idea what.

Along with that plan, I've got a list of to-dos about half a page long. Six of them are needlework & blog related. Seventeen of them are not. I'm not sure why Saturdays are so short...

Some of the needlework and blog related activities:

I'm planning the long and short stitch "classes" or lessons still. I have decided to take Joey's advice, and work an individual motif at a time, rather than a whole project. And in fact, I'm arranging individual motifs into a sampler of sorts, so I'll be showing you that soon.

I've got to edit a few videos. I don't even want to think about it!

I have to clean up the studio and get it ready for a guild meeting Monday evening. In the process, that's when I'll pull out the Random Sampler.

I will be planning my Saturday afternoon sessions - I'm going to do some Christmas card sessions with the kids on Saturdays over the next couple months, and I'd like to get that going next weekend. I can't do that without proper planning. So I plan to properly plan today. Besides using designs I already have from books and online sources, I have several card patterns (embroidered cards, you know!) bouncing around in my head. They need to come out on planning paper, and then they need to be tested. So that's something I'll be writing up.

I must, today, finish the goldwork project I'm working on. I've got to get it in for framing, since it's a wedding gift and I want it finished on time. So I will finish that today. And take photos....!

I must clean, organize, line up - all the related activities associated with getting ready for upcoming projects. For example, I have to pick out the stitching on the baby booties and get the supplies put together for those and packed into a bag, so I can work on it when time allows and everything will be at hand. I need to assemble all my threads for the Pelican (and that's a good thing, because I have them scattered hither and thither).... oh, bother. This is going to be my "junk drawer" category for the day.

Ok. You're right. I need to face reality: What can I actually accomplish today? I suppose we'll have to see!

.... I'm thinking I should skip doing laundry ...... and do I really neeeeed to vacuum? Heh heh heh.

Have a great weekend!

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Thread Conversion: Anchor, DMC, Soie d'Alger

 
A while ago, I purchased an Anchor Fleur de Lis kit titled "Spring." It's a small square tablecloth. I thought it would be a fun, easy project for casual stitching. I started it (barely), but never got back to it. Rummaging through my boxes the other day, I came across the tablecloth, but realized that I had mixed the Anchor threads in with my other cotton threads, and had ended up using a lot of them in my summer embroidery classes.... Doesn't it figure?

Around here, I don't have access to Anchor threads, without special ordering them. But I'm not ordering any embroidery supplies for a while (my Resolution - hold me to it!). On the bright side, I do have a couple gift certificates that I've never used to Michael's and Hobby Lobby, both of which carry DMC. The question, then, is ... can I convert the required colors from Anchor to DMC?

To figure that out, I set about look for thread conversion charts. A while ago, I posted an article about thread conversion charts, but in checking those links, I've found that most of them are now defunct. The woes of relying on specific websites for needful information!

In the meantime, though, here's a good color conversion chart from Crosstitch.com. It's an Anchor-to-DMC conversion chart (or visa-versa), and the fun thing is, you can select the thread numbers, click a button, and get an image of the color as well as the corresponding DMC number.

Thread Conversion Chart from Crossstich.com


You can select multiple color numbers by holding the control key down, and then you convert them, and get a nice chart indicating both DMC numbers and JP Coats numbers. If there isn't an exact match, they'll give multiple close matches.

Thread Conversion Chart from Crossstich.com


One other conversion chart that I think is handy is this DMC to Soie d'Alger chart. I'm a huge fan of Soie d'Alger, so this is a great chart to have, especially for designs that call for DMC, but that you'd like to kick up a notch to silk.

And finally, the resource of resources - Needlepointers.com has a huge list of color conversion charts around the web. There are several color charts for rather obscure threads on there, and there are a few links that don't work, but it's a terrific list and a great resource to have! Add it to your favorites for future use!

Few color conversions are exactly accurate - you'll probably never get the Exact Same Color in a different brand of thread - but they're often close enough that no one would be able to tell. If, perchance, they aren't close enough for this particular project, I have absolutely no problem picking out what I've done so far and starting over. I've got about one-eighth of one side finished. No biggie.

What do you think about converting threads? Do you cross over between brands when you stitch? Do you have any good resources for thread conversion? Speak up!! Help the rest of us out! Thanks!!

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Friday, September 26, 2008

Reader's Question: Stitching Applique and Using DMC

 
Here's another reader's question that came in this past week. I decided to post it for several reasons: 1. I've received similar questions before; 2. the e-mail came back as non-deliverable, so I'm hoping the reader can find my answer here; and 3. other readers may have some input to help Twyla with her stitching decisions!

There are two points I'd like to admit about myself before I launch into this: 1. I don't know the answer to every needlework question, though I will generally make an effort to find an answer if anyone e-mails me for help; 2. My answer may not be the best answer, or the only answer - there are lots of ways to approach embroidery and needlework and not everyone uses the same techniques.

So that's my blanket statement, and I realize it sounds a lot like a bad excuse just to cover myself. And perhaps it is! Hmmmm.....

Ok, here's Twyla's e-mail:
Hello, I'm thankful for your videos. I like to make quilts and so I ordered a quilt kit called the Catnip Quilt. I live in Japan so I can't just go to a store. Anyway, I ordered all my things on-line and I needed DMC floss for the kitty's whiskers, and stuff like that. I'm using a fusible webb to put on all my cats and I don't want to use my sewing machine to do the applique; I want to do them by hand. That's where your videos have been helpful. I don't know much about embroidery. I decided to use a buttonhole stitch to go around all my applique. I don't know what DMC floss is. I ordered floss; it is 100% cotton and comes in 6 strands but it seems really cheap. So, what is DMC floss compared to other flosses out there?

Also, out of all your videos of stitches, what would be the ones you recommend for going around applique on quilts by hand? Also, how do you know how many strands of floss you use for different ones?

Thanks for any help you can give!

And here's my response:

DMC stranded floss (cotton, 6 strands) is the most widely-available floss here in the US. It's mercerized cotton, so it has a sheen to it, it's fairly strong, and it's fine for stitching. Like any cotton floss, it may pill or fray if you're stitching with long strands through several layers of fabric and fusing. Make sure you stitch with short lengths of floss (no more than 16 inches, I'd say).

The best stitch for around an applique is buttonhole or blanket stitch. The spokes of the stitch go towards the inside of the applique, while the rope-like edge that forms ends right on the applique line. You can vary the width of the stitch, so that the spokes are farther apart or closer together (in fact, you can stitch them right next to each other if you wish), as you choose. It depends on the look you want. Alternately, you can also use an overcast stitch. I don't have a video for overcasting, but essentially, it is just stitching a satin-stitch-type line over the edge of the applique and the ground fabric.

The number of strands you choose for your floss depends upon the size of the applique, and how much is required for the floss to be visible. If the appliques are a regular size (nothing miniature), I'd guess you'd need two strands at least. If they are big appliques, you might go for three strands. Anyway, try both - and then decide what looks best. You'll want to make sure you have a needle with a big enough eye to accommodate the number of strands. A needle that's too small, on this kind of work, will hurt your hands and will cause your thread to pill and fray.

Make sure as well that you strip your floss first. That is, after you cut the length you're going to use, you separate one strand at a time from the piece of floss, until you have the number you're going to use. So, if you're going to work with two threads, you separate two threads from the rest of the floss (individually pulling one thread out at a time), and then you put the two threads back together. This keeps your floss from looking twisted and not giving full coverage.

The best way to strip your floss is to grip about an inch away from one end of the floss with one hand, holding the floss up in front of you so that it's falling towards the floor, with the inch of floss sticking out above your two fingers. Then, with the other hand, pick out one strand from the bunch (above your fingers), and pull straight up out of the group - the rest of the floss hanging below your fingers will pull up as you pull the piece out, but fall again, once the piece is out. If you try stripping your floss just by pulling it straight apart, you'll end up with a knotted mess.

If you have any advice that you want to add to help Twyla with her project, don't hesitate to post a comment down below! Thanks!

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Thursday, September 25, 2008

Starting a Thread: Away Waste Knot Photo Tutorial

 
Here's a little photo tutorial for another common way of beginning your threads when you embroider. This is a good method to use when you're going to be stitching on tighter curves, but you can also use it on straight lines, or filling, or any time you start a thread!

I call this an "Away Waste Knot," to distinguish between it and the waste knot I described earlier. "Away Waste Knot" doesn't have a very good ring, though, does it?

The Away Waste Knot: Method of Work

Starting a Thread: Using an Away Waste Knot to begin your embroidery thread


I'm going to stitch around that curly shape on the right. Start with your fabric up, a knot in the end of your thread, and take your needle down into your fabric from the top a few inches away from the point you intend to start stitching, so that your knot is on top of your fabric (as shown above).

Now, it will make things a whole lot easier if you take your thread down into your fabric at least three inches (and possibly more) away from your starting point. It is also wise to make sure your thread isn't crossing the design, if there are "blank" areas in the middle of the design. To eliminate any difficulty of catching your thread with your stitches after your thread has crossed over a blank area (risking visibility on the front), make sure the path between the knot and where you're starting isn't in line with your stitching.

I didn't do that, and you'll see what happens here - but it isn't a big deal on a design this small...

Starting a Thread: Using an Away Waste Knot to begin your embroidery thread


Well, that was easy enough, wasn't it? Stitch whatever you intended to stitch....

Starting a Thread: Using an Away Waste Knot to begin your embroidery thread


... and then pull up on your knot, and snip it close to the fabric. You need to pull up a bit on these knots before you clip them close to the fabric - you want the tension from pulling up on them to "boing" the thread back under the fabric for you.

Starting a Thread: Using an Away Waste Knot to begin your embroidery thread


This is the back of the work. You can see that I've cut the knot off, and the thread is just hanging there, waiting. It isn't stitched over (except for one tiny stitch, where it crossed over the design).

Starting a Thread: Using an Away Waste Knot to begin your embroidery thread


Thread the thread back onto your needle. With the limited length of your thread here, a needle threader would come in really handy.

I suppose you've probably noticed that my thread here is really too short for much manipulation with the needle. If your length of thread is longer, then at this point, you would simply take your threaded needle, and, passing under the back of the stitches, you'd wrap your threads on the back of the stitches to secure them.

I don't like using a super long length of thread with this type of knot. Well - I take that back - it depends on the thread. But if I'm working with a more expensive thread, or a specialty thread that I don't have much of, I don't want to waste a lot of it.

But, if the thread is too short, you're not going to be able to manipulate your needle... and you won't be able to wrap around the back threads. So what do you do? I have two different approaches.

Starting a Thread: Using an Away Waste Knot to begin your embroidery thread


The first approach is to take the needle eye first through the back of the stitches. But this can be really incovenient, because it means you have to un-thread and re-thread in order to move your needle around.

So, in comes the tool....

Starting a Thread: Using an Away Waste Knot to begin your embroidery thread


I use a tiny crochet hook that I keep in my tool box, just for this. It's a #12, so it's small enough to slide under (hook face down) behind the back threads, grap the thread, and pull it through beneath the stitches. You can very quickly pass your short thread underneath 5 or 6 stitches with ease this way.

They make tools for this, too - specialty tools. But I crochet hook will cost about a dollar, and it comes in handy for lots of little things, so it's nice to have one on hand. The disadvantage of the crochet hook is that it graduates in size up the handle, so it isn't suitable for passing under a long row of stitches. But it works great for passing behind one or two stitches.

Ok, so, last step: Trim up the little tails of your threads to neaten.

Pros of the Away Waste Knot:

1. It's easy. You don't have to mess with anchoring the beginning thread right away, so you can launch straight into stitching. You also don't have to worry about crossing over the thread as you stitch, as with the regular waste knot.
2. It is a good way to secure threads neatly, after you're finished stitching with that thread.
3. It works great when you're stitching something on a tight curve, where a regular waste knot wouldn't work.

Cons of the Away Waste Knot:

1. It can make you a lazy stitcher. I do know people who riddle their work with these kinds of knots, planning to cut them at the end. Unfortunately, in the meantime, they've stitched over the crossing threads on the back.... and over them again... and so forth, until the back of the work is a mess. I think, in their eagerness to keep stitching, they don't stop to think that, at the end, they're going to have to take probably even more time to finish off threads, since they have a clean-up job to do, too. It's just better not to be lazy about starting and ending threads correctly. You'll be much happier with the finished results of your work if you take the time to run your threads under with each thread, or at least with each section or motif of a larger work.

2. It can be very wasteful! It uses up more thread than most methods of starting your threads. If you want to use this waste knot the easy way, you'd allow yourself a minimum of three inches (and really, for ease, probably more like four) to work with at the end. Considering there are ways of starting a thread that take up less than an inch of thread, this approach comes off as pretty wasteful. Now, if you're working with a thread that's inexpensive and readily available, and in fact you have a surplus of it yourself, it's not a big deal. But when you're working with a thread that costs $3 - $5 (or more!).... well. Three or four extra inches every time you start a thread can really add up!

3. It can be inconvenient if the knot is not far enough away. If you don't have a tool to pull that thread under, it can be a regular pain in the neck. You could use the eye of your needle just to "scrape" the thread under if you had to, but that really is a pain, and you can distort your stitches on the front, doing so.

But, though the cons seem to outweigh the pros, the away waste knot has its place and can be quite convenient to use. So ... try it! See what you think! And let me know how you liked it, if you do give it a try!

You can find more ways of starting and ending your threads under Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery, in the article titled Starting and Ending Threads.

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Online Needlework Show is Live...

 
Just a quick post to remind you to stop in at the Online Needlework Show this weekend. It closes Monday, September 29th at midnight. I'll tell you a little bit about it here...

It's great fun to browse all the vendors to see what's being offered in the world of needlework out there. Many vendors focus on counted cross stitch and needlepoint, but there are thread vendors, accessory vendors, lots of "European" flavor designers, etc. And, part of the fun - many of the designers / vendors offer "door prizes" - you can see on their individual pages what the door prizes are. Generally, you have to send in an e-mail to the vendor, answering a question or what-have-you, to get included in the drawing. While it may seem like a lot of effort, there are some vendors that would most certainly be worth trying for!

For example, Dinky-Dyes is again giving away a whole line of their silk! Worth the effort of browsing, I'd say.

They ask a specific information question about their silk line, so make sure you go take a look at their silk line at their website for yourself (the link is available on the Needlework Show page).

Some other fun stuff to do while there, besides door prizes: try their treasure hunt. It's on The Fun Page.

The purpose of the show, by the way, is for retailers and customers to see what's available in the needlework line - and some retailers (check your local needlework shop) will carry many of these newly available items. Some may even allow you to submit a list of things you (the general viewing public - not a retailer) see on the site that you like, that they will order for you. If you're looking for an online retailer that will order items you see for you, check out the Happy Stitcher website. Mary Kathryn is usually happy to do that for customers - you may want to drop her an e-mail to see if she's still doing it (she doesn't usually answer her comments section on her blog, so that's not the route to go...)

So, enjoy the upcoming weekend - I know it's only Thursday... *sigh* (it feels like Monday)... and if you have time, stroll through the booths at the Online Needlework Show!

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Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery

 
This is a new index which I'll be adding to the "Editor's Floss" in the right column of Needle 'n Thread.

Here you'll find general categories for different types of tips, tricks, and helpful information articles on Needle 'n Thread. I've linked to articles that focus solely on a certain tip or technique, as well as articles that contain helpful information within, even if they weren't written to focus on a particular tip.

While organizing this list, I've noticed that I am missing some key information that is especially suited to beginners - articles that I planned to write, but never finished, etc. I'll be finishing those up and publishing them in the near future.

As I re-organize and re-categorize some articles, I'll add them to the list. And of course, whenever I come up with a new article that would fit under any of these categories, I'll list it here, too, so you can find it easily.

Tips Especially for Beginners

Starting and Ending Threads

Transferring a Repeat Pattern (Iron-on)

On Threading Needles (read the comments section, too!)

Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches

Transferring Patterns

Transferring a Design onto a Dressed Slate Frame

Transferring a Repeat Pattern (Iron-on)

Tracing a Pattern (information is contained in the text of this post)

Using Solvy to Transfer Your Design: Part I

Using Solvy to Transfer Your Design: Part II

Transferring a Pattern Using Prick and Pounce

General Information about Iron-on Patterns

Designing your Own Embroidered Card Pattern

Difficulties of Pencil Transfer with Whitework

Hoops, Frames, and Stands

Dressing a Slate Frame

Using a Stretcher Bar Frame

Stand Review for the Needlework System 4

On Embroidery Hoops in General

Using a Scroll Frame for Ribbon Embroidery (read the comments section for reader input!)

A Project from its Conception to the Beginning Stitches (includes commentary on planning, framing, transferring)

Threads

Thread Conversion - DMC to Anchor, etc.

Cotton Floche vs. Danish Flower Thread

Floche, Perle, and Stranded Cotton

Twisted Silks in Use

Comparison of Twisted Silks

Comparison of Flat Silks, Part I

Comparison of Flat Silks, Part II

Goldwork Threads: Sadi

Goldwork Threads: Passing Thread Close Up

Size Comparison: Gilt Silk Twist vs. Stranded Cotton

Embroidering with Gilt Silk Twist (needle info, etc., within the artcle)

Individual Stitches and Techniques

Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches

The Difference Between Stem Stitch and Outline Stitch

Satin Stitch around a Tight Curve

Satin Stitch: Outlining and Padding before Stitching

Making Flowers out of Buttonhole Stitch

Making Hollyhocks out of Buttonhole Stitch

Working Herringbone Stitch in a Circle

Experimenting with Italian Stitch in Silk and Gold

Using Seed Stitch as a Filling

How to Make a Bullion Rose Bud - this is a video tutorial that includes tips on starting and ending threads

Lattice Work for the Center of a Flower

Plaited Braid Stitch Musings

Couching Lattince Work

Fabric

What is Cloth of Gold?

Taking Care of Linens and Projects (read the comments, too)

Embroidering on Vintage Linens

Fabric for Surface Embroidery and Tips on Linen

On Specific Tools

On Threading Needles

Selecting the Right Needle for the Job

Using a Laying Tool

A Boo-boo Stick

Tack Kit (for stretcher bars)

Thread Rings and Keeps

Goldwork

Stretched Purl Pearl wrapped with Thread (gold and floss twist)

Using a Plunging Lasso (for plunging goldwork threads)

Goldwork Threads: Sadi

Couching Gold over Silk, and Some Comments on Plunging Threads

Repairing Cloth of Gold (read the comment section especially!)

Preparing Beetle Wings for Embroidery

Chipwork and Working with Purl

Or Nue Information

Finish Work

Ironing Your Finished Embroidery

Finish Work: How to Frame a Piece of Embroidery

Finishing an Embroidered Pouch

Making a Cord, Tassel, and Button

Organization

Floss and Thread Organization, Part I ***

Floss and Thread Organization, Part II ***

Keeping Organized While Stitching

Organizing a Project Room (no real tips, just what I did)

Miscellaneous (There's always a junk drawer, isn't there?)

Setting up a Children's Embroidery Class (including making your own thread holders)

An Online Resource for Tips and Tricks

Making Dorset Buttons

Making Embroidery Stitch Videos

Budgeting so you can Afford your Hobby

Making an Arm-Chair Thread Catcher for Scraps and Orts

How Many Hand Embroidery Techniques Are There, Anyway? (read comments!)

*** These articles need to be reformatted, which I will do soon. When I switched the site over last year to the new format, some of the characters and formatting didn't transfer, and I just now noticed!!! Aaack. So I will fix these and repost them!

I hope you find something useful in this list that maybe you haven't seen before, or perhaps you'll find something that a stitching friend could use, and you'll forward it on! Thanks!

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Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Great Tutorial for Smockers!

 
Just a quick note to let you know about this terrific tutorial for honeycomb smocking on Tumbling Blocks. It's an excellent picture tutorial for a really neat smocking technique. It makes it look really easy and fun! I hope you enjoy it!

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Baby Booties are Cute - but...

 
Remember my needlework carrots? One of them is embroidered baby booties. I started them, and this is what I've done so far. Some parts I'm happy about. Some, I'm not.

First off, I decided to use flannel. I had some scraps of pink flannel, and some scraps of a periwinkle-ish-purple with white polka dots. I decided that the polka dots would be the inside lining, and the polka dot sole would be on the outside, for the fun of the contrast.

Hand Embroidered Baby Booties


You can see the turn-down there on the cuff. I used mistyfuse to fuse both pieces of flannel together, and it worked really well. Still, they may be a bit stiff. I don't know yet!

Hand Embroidered Baby Booties


I started with a lot of colors - but I narrowed it down to predominantly white and purple and green, with yellow French knots.

Hand Embroidered Baby Booties


I'm not drawing out any pattern - I'm just going to randomly cover the whole thing with white and purple flowers (mostly white, with a few purple and little tiny purple accents). I'll be throwing in a few little green specks for leaves.

Hand Embroidered Baby Booties


Unfortunately, I didn't have the right color of purple, and that's kind of bugging me. I went through every kind of thread in my stash (every kind) to find a matching color... but nary a match.

So I went ahead with the purple I had. And. I. Don't. Like. It.

But - I keep telling myself it's just a sample... it's just a test! Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to get back to them for about 5 days now - and I have a nagging suspicion it's because I don't like the purple. I keep telling myself it's because I haven't had a chance, but deeeeeep down, I think I would have made a chance if I liked the purple!

I'm going to machine-sew the soles on, then stitch over the seam. I'll let you know how the finish goes on this!

So there's another carrot underway! Anyone ever make baby booties? How 'bout sharing some ideas or advice?

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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Beginning and Ending Threads: Photo Tutorials on Common Methods

 
As I mentioned in my photo tutorial on using a waste knot, the most common question I receive via e-mail is "how do I begin (or end) my thread withough using a knot?" To answer that question, I've worked up several photo tutorials.

I'll be listing all these photo tutorials here so that they're easy to locate. I'll have a permanent link to them on the side bar under "Editor's Floss," in a new category that will be called "Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery," where you find all such posts on embroidery tips and tricks indexed.

I hope you find this list of photo tutorials on beginning and ending threads helpful!

Beginning

Ending
  • Pulling It Through


  • Wrapping It Up


  • Anchoring with an Adjacent Fill

If you have any suggestions for other methods you think would be useful to readers, please leave a comment below. Thanks!

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Starting Your Thread: Waste Knot Photo Tutorial

 
One of the most frequently asked questions I receive via e-mail is "How do I begin my embroidery thread without using a knot?" Way back when Needle 'n Thread first started, I wrote a post (with a really corny title) about waste knots. But sometimes, it's better to see it in pictures, so...

I worked up a series of photo tutorials on starting threads when you embroider. There are several ways to begin your embroidery thread, and I'll be covering my favorite ways with these tutorials over the next week or so. I'll also categorize them in an easy-to-find index.

The Waste Knot

We'll start with the easiest one (in my opinion...), the waste knot, which is great to use when you're stitching along a line. It's very convenient to use when you're beginning a thread that is not adjacent to any other embroidery stitches, although I sometimes like to use a waste knot even if I am adjacent to other stitches, too.

Beginning your embroidery without a knot - using a waste knot


You begin on the front of your fabric, and yes, you do use a knot! Put a small knot at the end of your thread. Then, with the top of your work facing up, take your needle down into your fabric about an inch or so down the line from where you will begin stitching.

You want to head towards the waste not as you stitch. I'm going to use a stem stitch here.

Take your first stitch forward, then turn your work over:

Beginning your embroidery without a knot - using a waste knot


I'm turning the work over here, so you can see the back. Usually, when I use a waste knot, I don't turn the work over. I use a finger to move the thread on the back up and down, to make sure I'm crossing over it. Once you get used to the whole concept of a waste knot, you'll also get used to manipulating the thread on the back up and down, so that you don't have to turn your work over.

Each time you come up to the front of your work from the back, you want to cross over that thread that's lying across the back of the line you're stitching, so that you are, in a sense, couching that thread down.

Alternately, some stitchers like to pierce through the line of thread on the back, rather than cross over it, stitching through the back thread down the line. I don't really like doing that, especially if I'm using a thread that has any "fuzz" to it, because the fuzz can pull back up with your stitching. Also, I think on some threads, splitting the thread tends to weaken it or fray it, which would make this whole concept somewhat useless!

Beginning your embroidery without a knot - using a waste knot


On the front of the work, you want to stitch up to the knot, checking the back to make sure that you're crossing the thread (or using your finger on the back of your work to move the thread up and down so you can cross over it).

Beginning your embroidery without a knot - using a waste knot


When you're within a stitch of the knot, pull up on the tail of the thread to lift the knot off the fabric, then snip the thread right under the knot, close to the fabric.

Beginning your embroidery without a knot - using a waste knot


On the back of the work, you will have a neatly couched line, and your thread is now secured without leaving a knot in your work. Simple, isn't it?

Pros of the Waste Knot

1. It's very easy to use for straight lines and gentle curves, and it works great for surface embroidery, needlepoint, cross stitch, and other counted techniques.
2. It conserves thread, compared to some other ways of starting threads. At the most, you lose around an inch and a half of thread in the anchoring process and in the knot.
3. Once you get used to it, you can manage a waste knot solely from the front of the fabric, which is convenient.
4. It's a great way to start a new thread when you're not working adjacent to any other embroidery stitches (or even if you are, if you want).

Cons of the Waste Knot

1. To work it efficiently, you need to get used to it. Until you can manipulate your thread without turning your work over, it'll take time and it'll be a bit of a pain to have to turn your work over to make sure you're stitching over the back thread.
2. There are other ways of starting your threads that do not use as much thread as the waste knot.

If you've never used a waste knot, go ahead and try it out! Let me know what you think!

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Monday, September 22, 2008

A Banner Day!

 
I don't usually gush on about good days, bad days, and the like. Pretty much, I have relatively even days - but today was a banner day, for a number of reasons, and I'd like to tell you about one reason and show you the other!

First, the telling:

You know my embroidery stash contests and book give-aways? Well, I recently fell behind on mailing. So, if you are waiting for something in the mail from Needle 'n Thread, guess what? It's finally on its way! Our post office has strange hours. It is never open when I'm not at work. But today I was off early, so ... I finally made it! I was one of those last-ten-minutes-of-the-day customers with-lots-of-packages-to-mail, all of which had to be fit-into-the-right-sized-mailer and then addressed-at-the-counter, after which I had to fill out customs forms. Oh boy. I kind of felt bad. But if they would change their hours.....!!!!! However, in a spirit of great congeniality, I chatted with the lady behind the counter, and all got safely posted. I feel as if the burden of the world has been lifted from my shoulders (a slight exaggeration, but it is nice to have that off my mind!)

And the showing:

The day after I went thread shopping for the first time in eons, I placed an order for some threads, and today, they arrived! Now, you may be thinking that's a heck of a long time to await an order, but in all fairness, most of the order was made up of special orders. So once they were all in, Needle in a Haystack sent the order out in good time, and here is what will be my Last Purchase of Embroidery Goods for a Very Long Time.

And because of that, I shall revel and rejoice and enjoy my socks off with this shipment of goods. So let me show you what came today that has me all Giddy with Excitement.

Embroidery Supplies: threads, threads, threads, and THREADS!!!


This is the whole shipment. Ok, ok. So it doesn't look that thrilling. Well, let's look individually at the items, and see what they all mean.

Embroidery Supplies: threads, threads, threads, and THREADS!!!


This is a heap of white thread. Cordonnet and Cebelia in a vast variety of sizes, along with several sizes of coton a broder. For whitework? Well, some of it, yes. For needlelace? Well, yes, some of it. For filet lace? Oh, yes. That's the exciting part. I'm going to rope my dear mother into following through on her initial interest in "perhaps trying" filet guipure. And since I have the threads - and I have a goodly supply of netting of the knotted and unknotted variety - she will just have to succumb.

Needlework in the company of others is always fun, I think, don't you? So I'm looking forward to that. We'll probably argue quite a bit. I can't wait!!

Embroidery Supplies: threads, threads, threads, and THREADS!!!


Then there are these few new threads to try, which I will tell you more about later, after I try them. I don't want to horn-honk on any thread until I try it, but I sure do like the colors! Behind the thread, you see - yes - Q-snaps. I have succumbed to peer pressure here. Generally, I like wood. I know people out there may think that's really rather narrow-minded, but I like wood frames, wood hoops (the good ones), wood slate frames, wood stretcher bars, wood scroll frames... wood. Using plastic for tension does not tickle me. BUT - peer pressure won. So many people have recommended and raved over Q-snaps that I decided to give a set a try. I'll try them and let you know what I think of them. I don't want to offend anyone, but the truth is, if I don't like them... I'll probably say so! But that sounds so negative. As Alfred P. Doolittle would say, I'm willing to try them. I'm wanting to try them. I'm waiting to try them.

Embroidery Supplies: threads, threads, threads, and THREADS!!!


And then... aaaaaah.... see that pile of blue? That, my friends, is a pile of blue Impressions, for the background of the Pelican. I ordered larger hanks, all the same dye lot. And once my current goldwork project is finished, I launch into the Pelican for a good bit. Joey - if you're reading - no, I haven't tried them yet, but I will soon!

Embroidery Supplies: threads, threads, threads, and THREADS!!!


And finally, this is the Needle in a Haystack Stitching Has Its Rewards card. Oh, golly. How long have I been ordering from them, and I never knew about this? I finally started reading their newsletters and blog, and low and behold... I got a card. This means that I can build up rewards points that equal cash off my next order. Unfortunately, I won't be placing another order for a while. But hey. Some day I will. And gosh, I just feel really good about being an official card-carrying stitcher.

So that was my banner day.

It was un-banner day in the fact that I didn't get a post published this morning (sorry), and I didn't get the write-up finished about my concept of long-and-short stitch lessons, and I didn't get the face transferred. But I did dig out this:

Soie d'Alger in Flesh Tones


It's my flesh tone package of Soie d'Alger. Did you know you can order a whole set of only-flesh-tones of Soie d'Alger? I've had these for two years. I'm finally going to use them!

Thank you all for your good advice on the face. I will take each bit of advice and try it out, and let you know what actually ended up working out best!

I hope your Monday was a banner day, too! See you tomorrow!

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Sunday, September 21, 2008

I want to Embroider a Face

 
I want to embroider a face. I've never done it before. I want to learn how. But every time I face the task of preparing to do so, I falter! Why? I'm not sure... but, still, I want to embroider a face. Let me show you what I have in mind.

I'm working on (or getting ready to work on) an ecclesiastical piece of fairly largish proportions. It's riddled with faces. In fact, yesterday I sat for about half an hour, chin in hand, staring at the thing, and contemplating which faces to erase. There are just too many, and I've never embroidered a face.

But I want to embroider a face!

I mean, really! How hard can it be???! And why does it intimidate me?

Take a look at this picture below. It's a close-up on an embroidered face on an ecclesiastical piece. The face itself, in the context of the piece, is probably 2.5 to 3 inches long. I've left it large, so you can click on it to see a much bigger image.

Hand Embroidered Face: Virgin Mary in Ecclesiastical Embroidery


Up close, it's interesting, isn't it? Check out the stitch direction, the color changes, the outlines around the eyes, the chin, the lips, etc.

But if you're looking at it the large size, it may not really strike you as "quite right," as it doesn't look smooth or even beautiful, really. The eyes look kind of bulby, the bottom lip looks kind of square, the face (especially on the left) looks flat ..

But look at it from farther away:

Hand Embroidered Face: Virgin Mary in Ecclesiastical Embroidery


And from even farther away:

Hand Embroidered Face: Virgin Mary in Ecclesiastical Embroidery


The shading around the eyes is nice, isn't it? And the lips look right, now, don't they? And the left side of the face, which looks so flat and linear in the close-up, looks fine. The chin line and the neck shading blend to look dimensional.

I want to embroider a face like this!

This is my problem: I sit down to work out the picture, and it ends up looking like a cartoon. Somehow, I can't bring myself to transfer the drawning - I don't want to embroider a cartoon!

I wasted a lot of time yesterday trying to figure out how to approach this. Finally, I gave up and went back to my goldwork, which couldn't keep my interest because I was still engrossed in the face thing. So I pitched the goldwork (well, not literally), and didn't do anything needlework related the rest of the day.

Do you ever have a needlework idea or plan that eats away at you? This one eats away at me - I've been toying with it for years, thinking seriously about it for months, and obsessing over it for weeks. Yesterday was to be the day. But I quit! What does that say about me????

I finally came to this conclusion:

So what if it looks cartoonish? So what if the colors aren't "just right"? So what if it actually flops and looks like... garbage? So what?! What's the big deal? Wasted time? No - I'd be learning. Learning is never a waste of time. Waste of materials? Have you seen my stash cabinets? That's not even remotely an excuse!

Oh, dear! Could it be.... fear of failure? Heh heh. Wellllll...

You don't know, until you try! And that holds true not just for any embroidery technique or needlework project - that holds true for anything. You don't know, until you try.

So with renewed determination, I will begin this afternoon.

I am going to embroider a face.



Um....


if it turns out great, you'll be the first to know!






If it flops,


I might admit it... some day...




maybe....


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Saturday, September 20, 2008

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Celtic E

 
Here's the next requested letter for the current monogram alphabet for hand embroidery (or other craft) project - the letter E.

I've posted some stitching suggestions for this alphabet with the letter A, if you are interested in checking those out. You can also see what letters are currently available for this alphabet by checking the Monogram Index.

If you have a particular letter you'd like to see in this alphabet, just leave a comment below, and I'll move that letter to the top of my list!

Here's the small E:

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Celtic Monogram E


And here's the larger version:

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern: Celtic Monogram E


Enjoy!

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Friday, September 19, 2008

A Message from Trish Burr to the Book Give Away Participants

 
Trish e-mailed me and asked me to pass on the following message to all who participated in the Book Give-Away this past week....

The idea for this particular give-away came about because Trish e-mailed me to ask about a topic for her next book, to see if I could "poll" readers to find out which of two topics they would be more interested in. You can read all about those two prospective topics on the original post, if you didn't have a chance to catch it earlier. Besides just polling the audience, I thought it would be a good idea to have a drawing for a copy of Trish's last book, since I have two copies on my shelf.

So it worked out well for both of us - I could do another reduction contest, and Trish could find out what needleworkers out there thought of her two subjects.

Here's Trish's message to all who participated:

Hello everyone!

Thank you all so much for taking the time to respond to the book question, I really do appreciate all your valued input and am overwhelmed with the response. I have had a wonderful time this week reading your sincere and interesting responses, and the suggestions and advice will all be taken into consideration when I make my final decision. This will have to be a surprise (hopefully a good one)!!

When I completed the last book I said "no more, this is the last", but as a result of your enthusiasm I feel encouraged to get going again! It is important to me that each publication is something that is needed and helpful - being self taught from books myself I understand how essential it is to have clear and complete instructions. I will certainly do my best to put myself in your shoes and that which ever book gets published will incorporate some of the subject matter that you would like to see.

Congratulations to Freda Butler for winning the book give away, I hope that you enjoy it. I would love to give you all a free book but would probably end up in the poor house!

Happy stitching to you all.
Trish Burr


Thanks, Trish, for the opportunity to let people pitch in with their thoughts!

Enjoy the rest of your Friday and have a great weekend! I have a couple project plans this weekend, so I'll keep you up to date on those. I'm also reading a good book (on needlework) that I thought I'd tell you about. But I need to read a little more of it to be able to really tell you about it!

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Trish Burr Book Winner Announced!

 
Last week, I offered Trish Burr's newest book, Crewel and Surface Embroidery, in a give-away, and this morning, I drew for a winner...

The purpose of the give-away was two-fold: I'm continuing to reduce my stash and library, and I wanted to post a question on Trish's behalf concerning her next book.

Now, I know you might think it's crazy to reduce one's needlework library - and I agree! But this is actually a duplicate book on my shelf!

Trish was asking what people would rather see, out of two topics, in a new book from her: a book on general needlepainting techniques that could be applied to any needlepainting project, or a book on color selection, and why. Many excellent responses were given - if you're interested in reading them, they're at the end of the original article.

And now, on to the drawing. I numbered the entries and mixed them up, then went to a random number generator, and came up with a winner....

FredaB (Freda Butler), who said:

I would buy any book that Trish would write but of the 2 options I would go for option 2. The shading is probably the hardest part for me. I have Trish's other 2 books and just love to look at them. Plan on working with them this winter in Florida.

Congratulations, Freda!

In order to claim the prize, please contact me before the end of the day on Monday with your address, so I can mail it to you!

Thanks, everyone, so much for participating. Trish e-mailed and said she's been keeping up with the comments, and she would like to respond, so keep an eye out!

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Goldwork Project: I Learned a New Technique

 
I think I mentioned in my carrot post that, among my present line-up of needlework projects, I've got a small goldwork project I'm working on as a wedding present for my niece.

I can safely mention the wedding present thing, by the way, because no one in that branch of the family would ever even think of looking at my website....! So don't worry that I'm giving away a surprise!

Back to the project...

As I mentioned before, I'm not able to blog about the whole goldwork project right now, or even show you complete pictures. But I wanted to show you a technique that I've never used before, that I learned while working on this particular project. I think the resulting look is really beautiful - perhaps you'd like to try the technique, too.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


See the edge on the embroidered area there? Nice, isn't it? This is a "non-traditional" goldwork technique. I've seen it before, but never used it, and didn't really know what it was all about. But it's simple, and I think it's ever-so-pretty - but then, I'm a sucker for gold and for anything that looks like a twist!

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Incidentally, I was already working on this proje