Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Silk and Goldwork Cope Hood Photos
Despite wear and tear, this is a gorgeous piece of ecclesiastical needlework. In fact, most of the wear and tear, from a distance, isn't noticeable - but when you look closely at the piece, you realize that there are parts that really need attention if it is to continue in use.

Christiana has undertaken the formidable task of repairing this cope hood so that it can be used again. I thought I'd show you some photos she sent along. I never tire of studying this type of work up close - the details always amaze me!

So this is a hand-embroidered element mounted on the back of the hood of a cope, which is a garment (like a cape) used in liturgical ceremonies. The image on the back of the cope is a representation of the Trinity - God the Father, the Holy Ghost (the Dove), and God the Son (the Lamb of God, or Agnus Dei).

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


Here's a view of the whole piece of embroidery.

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


This is a close up on the face. I love examining faces. Look at the difference between the face from far away (in the first photo above) and the face close up. Who would've ever guessed there was a red line down the side of the nose and above the eyes?

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


Here's a close-up on the crown and nimbus. It looks like the goldwork here is in very good repair, as you can see in the photo below:

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


But as you travel downwards in the design, the need of repair becomes more obvious, as seen below:

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


You can see the loose gold threads around the feet of the lamb, and the red cording hanging down (visible in the first picture above as well). You can also see in this photo - if you look in the colored folds of the garment - that some of the line stitching is loose there.

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


Here's the face of the lamb up close. I have to agree with Christiana - I love the way they did the wool! You can see on the left side of the nimbus (halo) one of the threads tweaking off.

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


And I think this is great! This is Christiana's set-up for repairing the cope hood. First, she had to separate the hood from the lining, picking out by hand all the little stitches in the fabric around the hood (which is cloth of gold - not an easy task!). Then she had to contrive a way to mount the piece so that she had both hands free to work, without mounting it in anything that would damage the fabric or the embroidered piece. She's using a frame her dad made for her, which she's wrapped in fabric to protect the cope hood and also, I imagine, it provides a bit of friction to keep the work in place. She clamped the sides of the frame together to hold the piece while she works, keeping an even tension on the piece, but not so tight that it's pulling anything that's already stitched.

By the way - yep, she's stitching through the cloth of gold on which the piece is mounted. Talk about sore fingers!!

Keep up the good work, Christiana! I can't wait to see the finished product! (I wish I could see it in person!)

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, August 26, 2008
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Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Vintage Embroidered Linen: with Whitework and Crocheted Lace Edge
I do love digging through old pieces of linen that I've got here and there in boxes or drawers. I think this piece is particularly pretty, but it needs some serious clean up work. It's a nice center piece for a table, or, on a small round table, could cover it completely.

I'll be testing a new cleaner on this piece - I purchased a product called Restoration, which is supposed to restore vintage linens (or new ones, too, I guess) that are beset with stains, age discoloration, fold lines, etc. I can't wait to give it a try! If you've every seen the website, Cynthia's Linen Room, you'll find she recommends it highly in her tips on laundering antique linens.

In any case, on this piece, you'll see some nice, simple whitework and a very well done crocheted lace edge on a round linen accent piece.

Whitework on Linen Table Topper, with Crocheted Lace Edge


This is the whole piece. It is stained from age and has definite fold lines on it. The embroidery on it is not super fancy, but I think it's ok. By far the prettiest part of the piece, in my mind, is the crocheted edge.

Whitework on Linen Table Topper, with Crocheted Lace Edge


I like the pattern - the way it criss-crosses, and the little picots on the edge of the scallops.

Whitework on Linen Table Topper, with Crocheted Lace Edge


Here's a close up on some of the embroidery. There's a scallop design that circles the piece, and then two repeated motifs that alternate with each other around the piece.

Whitework on Linen Table Topper, with Crocheted Lace Edge


This motif cuts in three times around the piece, into the center. It's kind of a strange pattern - a sort of little off-set scalloped cut into the center, with those two half-moon things and some vines. I love the use of the seeding in the background.

Whitework on Linen Table Topper, with Crocheted Lace Edge


Here's another close-up on the crochet. I have no idea what the little string is that runs through the crocheted squares. It runs about half-way around the whole piece. Any idea?

If you have any vintage linens or stained linens, how do you clean them? I'd be interested to hear. I'll let you know how the Restoration stuff works - I have high hopes for it!

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, June 10, 2008
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Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Taking Care of Embroidered Goods, Linens, and Whatnot
Unfinished embroidery projects, embroidered household linens, little embroidered keepsakes, or even just plain fabric you plan to use for your needlework - all these items require, believe it or not, special care, especially in storing them. So I wanted to share a couple tips with you that I've learned either through experience or through that Fountain of All Useful Knowledge & Wisdom - my Mom.

For the following tips, I'm generally speaking of embroidery projects that are used in the home, that are worked in cotton on a natural fiber fabric, such as linen or cotton. Certainly, silk (whether used as a floss or as the ground fabric) and synthetics may require completely different care!

Cleaning your embroidery project requires special care. I suggest hand-washing with a mild detergent such as wool-lite, or even with a mild dish soap. The best scenario is to work carefully and avoid having to wash it at all, but if you're making cloth napkins, dishtowels, or household items like dresser scarves and so forth, you're going to have to wash them at some point.

I've gotten several questions about getting stains out of linen. For linen embroidered with white only, I generally use Biz if I've got tough spots. For really tough spots, as a last option because it's kind of a pain in the neck, I use cream-of-tartar in boiling water. Boil a pot of water, add a few teaspoons of cream of tartar, stir, submerge your item, wait ten minutes and rinse. I stir it now and then as it soaks. This works pretty well for me with linen that isn't embroidered in heavy colors, even removing old wine stains, etc. So that's an option. I've never tried it with dark colors, though I have with pale, and it works without damaging the color.

Never dry your embroidery projects in your dryer! Hang them or lay the flat to dry. This goes as well for vintage embroideries, etc. I think dishtowels are ok for the dryer, but finer projects are better off laid flat or hung to dry.

What about ironing? That project you just spent hours and hours on, and you've finally completed, and you are so proud of --- don't just throw it on your ironing board and go at it! Oh, no! When you press a piece of embroidery, you need to do it with care.
  • Use a clean, soft white towel or other cloth to line your ironing board. Residue on your ironing board cover may not come off - but then again, it just may. Why risk it?
  • Use another clean cloth to cover your work before you iron it. So you need two cloths, at least.
  • Starting with the right side up, lay your piece of embroidery on the cloth covering your ironing board. Put the second cloth over it. I use a light steam setting - some people debate this, but the covering cloth protects the embroidered piece and the steam helps press.
  • Do not "rub" the iron back on forth when ironing the front - rather, lay it on, then lift it, then lay it on again. This way, you avoid displacing any stitching. If you have a highly textured embroidered surface (lots of French knots, etc.), you may wish to skip ironing the front altogether.
  • Then turn your piece over, front side down on the cloth covering your board, and now you can either cover it or not with the other piece of cloth. If your iron isn't trusty, I'd cover it. I've got a great iron (a Rowenta professional - made in Germany, not China as some of the cheaper Rowentas are), and I've never had to worry about a water misshap or anything like that.
  • When ironing the back, you may "rub" the iron, but do it with care.
  • For highly textured pieces of embroidery, use several layers of soft cloth on your ironing board. This gives your stitches something to sink into and keeps them from getting squashed flat.

To starch or not to starch:
  • If you've embroidered napkins, tablecoths, or other household linens that are used frequently, starch them. The starch helps protect the fabric from dust and such that can discolor your work or make it look grimey.
  • If you don't use the pieces frequently and keep them stored most of the time (taking them out for special occasions only), don't starch them until you iron them for use. Afterwards, clean them, let them dry, and put them away without starching them. Starch can lend to storage discoloration, and can also cause undesirable creasing that's really difficult to remove.

For storing embroidered works, here are a couple tips:
  • Don't fold them! Either lay them flat or roll them on a cardboard tube that's either acid-free, or covered with a piece of acid-free tissue paper (or even with a piece of white linen).
  • Do not store them in plastic. It doesn't breathe. You can get mildew and whatnot - or just a plain stinky smell - from storing in plastic. You're better off with a lined cardboard box (they make archival boxes that you could use), or just a drawer.
  • However, if you are storing them in a drawer, beware of the wood! Wood will discolor your fabric over time. Line your storage drawer with white tissue paper or with white linen. I prefer tissue paper - it's cheaper!
  • Alternately, you can roll your pieces up (as mentioned above), and then wrap an extra layer of tissue around the roll.

Well, those are the tips I've gleaned over the years. What about you?? Do you have any tips or tricks for taking care of your work? If so, please share! Also, if anything above looks strange to you, or hasn't worked in your experience, please do let the rest of us know!

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Posted By: Mary Corbet on Tuesday, October 30, 2007
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