Long & Short Stitch Shading, Lesson 2: Inside the Box
Continuing with the series of long and short stitch shading lessons, here's Lesson 2: Inside the Box. In this lesson, we'll be stitching element one on the sampler, the two boxes in the top left corner.
If you're just joining us for the long and short stitch shading lessons, be sure to check out the previous posts in this series: Supplies and Lesson One: Setting up.
At the end of this post, you'll see a series of three videos on the basic long and short stitch. (I couldn't quite cram it all into one 10-minute video!)
Materials:
1. Project in hoop or frame, with Element One: Boxes centered in hoop (top left corner of the whole sampler)
2. #9 or #10 crewel (embroidery) needles (I use a #10)
3. Small, sharp embroidery scissors
4. DMC stranded cotton in the following colors: 814, 347, 349, 351, 353, 3855, 745, Ecru
NOTE: There is a difference between the step-by-step photos and the video tutorial for this lesson. In the step-by-step photos, I began the top of the box with bright red (349). In the video tutorial, I began the top row in dark red, (347) and worked six rows of color. The directions, however, are written with the bright red (349) as the first color, with five rows working to the lightest yellow (745). You can work the box either way, with five or six rows. If you work five rows, start with bright red (349). If you work six, start with dark red (347).
All stitching is worked with one strand of floss.
To Begin
1. Begin with the smallest box.
2. Anchor your thread according to your favorite method, or use the method demonstrated in the video tutorial, part 1.
3. Work a split stitch line across the top of the small box in bright red (349).
Draw vertical lines, from the center to each side of the box, to mark your stitch direction. Use a regular pencil for this. The vertical lines will help keep your stitches straight up and down. (This is demonstrated in the video, part 1).
First Row
1. Bring your needle up through the fabric, about 3/8" below the split stitch line, in the top center of the box. Take your first stitch over the split stitch line and back into the fabric. Now, working down the row to the right, space about six directional stitches more or less the same length all the way to the right edge of the box. This is illustrated in the video, part 1. after placing your directional lines (which are "long" stitches), go back to the center and work to the right, filling in "short" stitches of varying lengths, moving down the row.
2. You want your stitches to lie right next to each other, as they would in satin stitch, so make sure that you space them correctly - not too close that they bunch up, but not too far apart that you can see any fabric between them.
3. Continue working across the fabric to the right side of the box, alternating the size of your stitches between long and short. Vary their lengths. For a natural-looking long and short stitch (less formal and rigid-looking), stagger the length of your stitches between several lengths - some long, some a little shorter, then a bit longer, then shorter again, then shorter yet, then a little longer, then long, then short, then slightly longer, etc......! You want the bottom edge of your stitched row to be jagged, but you want ot keep an overall consistent length across the longest points of the stitches.
4. When you reach the right edge of the box, end with a long stitch on the pencil line. This is approximately what your progress should look like so far:
5. Now, move back to the middle of the box and work from the center to the left side of the box, doing the same thing.
6. If you're like me, one side will look better than the other. I don't know why this is! For me, the second half that I stitch always looks better than the first, even if I switch directions and stitch from the center to the left first.
Refer to the Long and Short Stitch Video, part 1, below, to see this technique worked out.
Subsequent Rows - up to, but not including, the last row
1. After the first row, each row is worked in the following sequence of colors:
---- Row 2: 351
---- Row 3: 353
---- Row 4: 3855
2. For subsequent rows, after the first row, bring your needle up from the back of your fabric into the first row of stitches, in the center:
3. Stitch some longer directional stitches from the center towards the right edge, dividing up the stitching area as you did with the first row (demonstrated in the video, part 2).
4. Stagger the entry point at the top of the stitches, so that some begin higher and some lower than the others. Work into the long stitches of the first row, about one-third the length up into the long stitches.
5. Work the short stitches of the second row high up into the first row of stitches, bringing the needle back down into the fabric to make a "short" stitch in the second row. Again, stagger your stitches, varying their length by varying where the stitches emerge in the previous row and where they go down into the fabric.
6. Continue from the center to the right edge, and then work from the center to the left edge of the box. You can find this technique demonstrated in the Long & Short Stitch Video, part 2, below.
You'll work each row in this manner, filling in the square, until you get to the last row.
Make sure that you're taking your stitches deep into the previous row, so that the colors blend well. Again, the video will help with this!
The Last Row
1. Split stitch the base line of the square in light yellow, 745.
2. Finish the last row in the same manner of the previous rows, but working the base of the stitches over the split stitch line, as you did with the beginning of the first row.
To help reduce "information overload" in one post, tomorrow I'll post the rest of Lesson Two, which is the second box, worked on the diagonal!
You may print, if you wish, a PDF of the entire lesson (including the second box):
Long and Short Stitch Shading, Lesson Two: Inside the Box (PDF)
Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 1
Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 2
Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 3
If you have any questions or comments, need clarification on anything, or have any suggestions that I'm able to implement concerning the lessons, don't hesitate to leave a comment below. Additionally, you can subscribe to the e-mail newsletter (right hand column) or my RSS feed to ensure you don't miss the next lesson! Advantages of the newsletter include that it's in a better format for printing (compared to the webpage) and you can reply directly to it to send me an e-mail (and attach pictures, if you wish).
Supplies for Long and Short Stitch Shading Project
Lesson One - Setting Up
Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson INDEX
If you're just joining us for the long and short stitch shading lessons, be sure to check out the previous posts in this series: Supplies and Lesson One: Setting up.
At the end of this post, you'll see a series of three videos on the basic long and short stitch. (I couldn't quite cram it all into one 10-minute video!)
Materials:
1. Project in hoop or frame, with Element One: Boxes centered in hoop (top left corner of the whole sampler)
2. #9 or #10 crewel (embroidery) needles (I use a #10)
3. Small, sharp embroidery scissors
4. DMC stranded cotton in the following colors: 814, 347, 349, 351, 353, 3855, 745, Ecru
NOTE: There is a difference between the step-by-step photos and the video tutorial for this lesson. In the step-by-step photos, I began the top of the box with bright red (349). In the video tutorial, I began the top row in dark red, (347) and worked six rows of color. The directions, however, are written with the bright red (349) as the first color, with five rows working to the lightest yellow (745). You can work the box either way, with five or six rows. If you work five rows, start with bright red (349). If you work six, start with dark red (347).
All stitching is worked with one strand of floss.
To Begin
1. Begin with the smallest box.
2. Anchor your thread according to your favorite method, or use the method demonstrated in the video tutorial, part 1.
3. Work a split stitch line across the top of the small box in bright red (349).
Draw vertical lines, from the center to each side of the box, to mark your stitch direction. Use a regular pencil for this. The vertical lines will help keep your stitches straight up and down. (This is demonstrated in the video, part 1).
First Row
1. Bring your needle up through the fabric, about 3/8" below the split stitch line, in the top center of the box. Take your first stitch over the split stitch line and back into the fabric. Now, working down the row to the right, space about six directional stitches more or less the same length all the way to the right edge of the box. This is illustrated in the video, part 1. after placing your directional lines (which are "long" stitches), go back to the center and work to the right, filling in "short" stitches of varying lengths, moving down the row.
2. You want your stitches to lie right next to each other, as they would in satin stitch, so make sure that you space them correctly - not too close that they bunch up, but not too far apart that you can see any fabric between them.
3. Continue working across the fabric to the right side of the box, alternating the size of your stitches between long and short. Vary their lengths. For a natural-looking long and short stitch (less formal and rigid-looking), stagger the length of your stitches between several lengths - some long, some a little shorter, then a bit longer, then shorter again, then shorter yet, then a little longer, then long, then short, then slightly longer, etc......! You want the bottom edge of your stitched row to be jagged, but you want ot keep an overall consistent length across the longest points of the stitches.
4. When you reach the right edge of the box, end with a long stitch on the pencil line. This is approximately what your progress should look like so far:
5. Now, move back to the middle of the box and work from the center to the left side of the box, doing the same thing.
6. If you're like me, one side will look better than the other. I don't know why this is! For me, the second half that I stitch always looks better than the first, even if I switch directions and stitch from the center to the left first.
Refer to the Long and Short Stitch Video, part 1, below, to see this technique worked out.
Subsequent Rows - up to, but not including, the last row
1. After the first row, each row is worked in the following sequence of colors:
---- Row 2: 351
---- Row 3: 353
---- Row 4: 3855
2. For subsequent rows, after the first row, bring your needle up from the back of your fabric into the first row of stitches, in the center:
3. Stitch some longer directional stitches from the center towards the right edge, dividing up the stitching area as you did with the first row (demonstrated in the video, part 2).
4. Stagger the entry point at the top of the stitches, so that some begin higher and some lower than the others. Work into the long stitches of the first row, about one-third the length up into the long stitches.
5. Work the short stitches of the second row high up into the first row of stitches, bringing the needle back down into the fabric to make a "short" stitch in the second row. Again, stagger your stitches, varying their length by varying where the stitches emerge in the previous row and where they go down into the fabric.
6. Continue from the center to the right edge, and then work from the center to the left edge of the box. You can find this technique demonstrated in the Long & Short Stitch Video, part 2, below.
You'll work each row in this manner, filling in the square, until you get to the last row.
Make sure that you're taking your stitches deep into the previous row, so that the colors blend well. Again, the video will help with this!
The Last Row
1. Split stitch the base line of the square in light yellow, 745.
2. Finish the last row in the same manner of the previous rows, but working the base of the stitches over the split stitch line, as you did with the beginning of the first row.
To help reduce "information overload" in one post, tomorrow I'll post the rest of Lesson Two, which is the second box, worked on the diagonal!
You may print, if you wish, a PDF of the entire lesson (including the second box):
Long and Short Stitch Shading, Lesson Two: Inside the Box (PDF)
Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 1
Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 2
Long & Short Stitch Shading Video Tutorial - Part 3
If you have any questions or comments, need clarification on anything, or have any suggestions that I'm able to implement concerning the lessons, don't hesitate to leave a comment below. Additionally, you can subscribe to the e-mail newsletter (right hand column) or my RSS feed to ensure you don't miss the next lesson! Advantages of the newsletter include that it's in a better format for printing (compared to the webpage) and you can reply directly to it to send me an e-mail (and attach pictures, if you wish).
Long and Short Stitch Shading Lessons - Related Posts
Supplies for Long and Short Stitch Shading Project
Lesson One - Setting Up
Long and Short Stitch Shading Lesson INDEX
Labels: embroidery lessons, long and short stitch, needlepainting, needlework pictures, needlework tutorials, pictures, stitchalong lessons, video tutorials
Posted By: Mary Corbet on Thursday, August 06, 2009
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33 Comments:
I already have my threads and fabric today, so I'm going to start.
Thank so much for everything dear Mary!
All is perfect!
Big Hugs!!
Maria del Valle
I can't open the videos!
It appears this message:
"This is a private video. If you have been sent this video, please make sure you accept the sender's friend request"
What may I do???
Thanks in advance!
Hi Mary...What does one need to do to be able to see your Youtube videos? When I click to view it shows a message that says the video is private and that if you've been sent the video to make sure that you accept the sender's friend request. I don't see anything in the N&T email that links to a "friend request" or to the videos. I guess I'm missing something here. - Jeannine
Although I'm not working on this project, it's terribly interesting to read about! I am anxious to see what happens next =)
Whooooops! Thanks for letting me know. I had the wrong settings saved on You Tube! It should be fixed now!
It's working!
Thank you, thank you!!
Thanks for the tutorial, Mary. Excellent, as always! This is going to be a great resource for all of us.
Nothing beats actually seeing something done in process. Added with ones own hands on, these are starting off as some great video tutorials.
It is so wonderful for you to take the time to do this.
Is this split stitch or alternating rows of essentially satin stitch? In other words, do I bring my needle up in the middle of the stitch below it or at the top/sharing the same hole?
First I want to say THANK YOU for this awesome tutorial Mary. I have been wanting to learn this stitch for some time now. I finally got all my threads organized and ready to start. I will posting progress on my blog. I do have a question.
On the split stitch are you only using one thread for that or two??
Thanks for the great videos; love seeing it done live.
From years of cross stitch, it feels easier, to me, to bring the needle up in the blank space. Would it make a difference to come up in the blank area and down into the previous row? Is it verboten in this kind of needlework? ;)
Hi, Thelma -
You're welcome! ;-)
I used one thread on the split stitch. You can use two - this will cause the edge to sit up a bit more on the fabric. But I only use one, usually....
MC
Lewmew -
You are not coming up in the same hole that the threads in the previous row ended in! That would give you a different stitch, called encroaching satin stitch.
With this, you're actually splitting the threads of the row above - so, in that sense, yes, it is like split stitch, only you aren't stitching in a line, you're stitching across a row, and alternating where you go up into the previous row...
Hope that helps!
MC
Laura G -
Yes, it does make a difference. You want to come UP into the stitches that are already there, splitting them from underneath. This creates a smooth surface on top of the stitches. It "lifts" the stitches above a bit, and your thread becomes part of them, rather than pushing them down. If you go DOWN into the previous row of stitches, then your present row will sit on top of the previous row and push down into it, which will change the look of the stitching. It's subtle, but it does make a difference!
Once you work the stitch a bit, you'll get used to the feel of coming up into the stitches rather than up into the blank fabric and down into the stitches!
Mary, 2 questions:
When you start with the knot on the top of the fabric, and you then cut it, doesn't that leave a loose end on the under side, do you cut that also or weave it in as you stitch?
Is there a reason why you do the right side in one shade then do the other side? Just wondered on the reasoning on that.
Hi, Barbara -
1. if you make your three little anchor stitches fairly close to your knot, and then you pull up on the tail of the knot and cut right next to the fabric, only a tiny bit of a tail is going to be left on the back. You don't need to weave it in - you'll be covering it up with your stitches.
2. Well, I think I explained this somewhere - it doesn't matter, really, if you move from the center to the right or from the center to the left, really. In fact, in one photo, you can see that I moved from the center to the left (it's in the larger box - the photo's in the PDF, and will be included in tomorrow's post). But there is a reason for not starting on either end of the row and just working across the row. It helps keep your stitches in the right direction and it helps with spacing your stitches. Starting in the middle "sets in" your stitch direction. It's the same technique used for satin stitching, if you want to achieve a nice, smooth, even, and consistent satin stitch - don't start on the end of the area you're stitching, but rather start in the middle and move to the edge.
Hope that helps! Thanks for the questions!
I am just starting on the stitching. When you say you use "one strand" of DMC floss is this the entire group of six fine strands?
Thank you,
Debbie S.
I just want to thank you for taking thee time to produce this tutorial. The videos are such a great help to me. I have books that show this stitch, but I learn better by watching and hearing someone actually doing the stitch.
For someone like me, who doesn't have anyone in their life who does this work, this type of teaching is invaluable.
Thanks!
Hi, Debbie -
No, not the group - just one strand!
Thanks for asking!
MC
Thank you so much Mary, I've been wanting to try this for so long now and your tutorial really helps. I stitched the first block yesterday from the photos but now wished I'd watched the videos first as I was coming up between the stitches and not splitting them and the effect definitely isn't so good. On to the diagonal..........
Mary, thanks for the answer, I would guess that is the reason I have never been happy with my satin stitches, see you can teach an old dog new tricks, grin.
Hi, Mary! I loved the videos, they really help me understand how the stitches work. One question here: after I actually saw you working with the thread, I'm not sure I will be able to get the same kind... I thought of using Anchor mouliné, which is the kind I use for cross stitch and is pretty easy to find around here in Brazil, but DMC is not sold here anymore (sad thing, by the way, I could find their products here a few years ago). What other threads could I use instead? Thanks a lot! :)
Hi, Samanta -
I think Anchor mouline is the same thing as DMC 6-stranded cotton, but it is manufactured by Anchor (a British company) rather than DMC (a French company). The color numbers are different, but you can find color conversion charts online. You can find one here that you can also print. It's Anchor to DMC, so the DMC number is on the right.
MC
Hi, Samanta - I posted this comment yesterday, but for some reason it hasn't shown up, so I'm going to try it again:
Hi, Samanta -
I think Anchor mouline is the same thing as DMC 6-stranded cotton, but it is manufactured by Anchor (a British company) rather than DMC (a French company). The color numbers are different, but you can find color conversion charts online. You can find one here that you can also print. It's Anchor to DMC, so the DMC number is on the right.
MC
Hi Mary,
I finished my little block...I'm glad you're not grading this!! No, actually I did ok and will do better with the next one! When do I use the ecru? It was on the list but maybe I just ran out of room?
This is so,ooo much fun!!
Kathy
Hi, Kathy! Congratulations on finishing! I'm really glad to hear you're having fun with it!
The ecru, for me, worked into the last row of the second (larger) box, at the very tip of the box (working on the diagonal). If you ran out of room, that's quite ok - you don't have to use every color!
Good to hear it came out well!
Can't wait to hear how you like the triangles!
Best,
Mary
Oh well, bother. I was looking to see whether to use one strand or the thread, and ended up using a thread.
Chunkiness rules! It looks ok.
One thing I personally find useful is to rule across vertically (vertically in the case of this box) as well. This gives you an idea of when to start your next colour - so you don't end up with narrower and narrower bands as you try to fit in all your colours in. (so the box will start off looking like a chequerboard. On a more complicated shape, you end up with directional lines (which I agree - they are essential) and colour change indication lines - a real architecture of a line drawing before you start!
How far along the back would you say you could travel backwards, on the back, to the midpoint before tension becomes an issue? An inch?
I found your comments on going really deeply into the former rows very valuable. I don't think I've been going deeply enough (after a total of 1 year of L&S stitching practially non-stop)
Mary, many thanks from a newcomer to your blog. This tutorial was extremely helpful. I've been working long and short stitch for a long time, but your new perspectives and personal tips are welcome. Thank you!
Hi Mary,
Thanks a lot for these lessons. I am so happy to improve in that field. I started the first box today. Not perfect at all, but I am sure that your videos and tutos will make me progress
Cheers
Dear Mary, I am finally finding the time to take the lessons. one ? How do you divide the sq. up. do you do 1/4 in each color. I am starting the third row and I haven't gotten to half of the square yet. are my stitches too short? should I be planning out the vertical lenghth of each row?I will post a photo. seems like I will have room left at the bottom at the depth I am stitching..I think I will tear it out and begin again. feedback please , thanks so much I am really enjoying this. joanne
Hi, joanne -
Actually, if you divide the small box, it ends up being in 5 sections of color. Your stitches are probably a bit short, but instead of tearing out, since it is a practice piece, why not just start the sequence of colors over again? Then, on the next element, you can practice with longer stitches! It would save you the frustration and time of picking out your stitches. Just a suggestion! I'll check in on flickr tomorrow (Friday) afternoon to see what's new.
Best,
Mary
Hi Mary,
I know you've mentioned it before, but I still don't get how you're using only one strand for the outline split stitch. How do you split it if you are only using one strand of thread? Also, how many strands of thread are you using for filling?
Thank you so much for the videos, they are so helpful.
Actually, I find split stitch easier (and think it looks better!) with one thread. If you check out the split stitch video in the video library, you'll see how I do it with one thread. Basically, I just come up in the middle of the one thread and split it.
I've gotten a bit o' flack on the question of how many threads to use for the filling - some folks have e-mailed and said that it should be two as a rule, because the threads are being split, and others have e-mailed asking why I didn't include the important information of numbers of strands of floss in the instructions.
To answer the first point, it is a misconception to say that split stitch always has to be worked in two or more threads, so that you can "split" between them. Split stitch is often worked with a single thread, splitting right into the middle of the thread.
To answer the latter point, when I first published this lesson and the PDF, the lesson and the PDF were not merely "cut and paste" jobs - so they aren't exactly the same text. In the PDF, I didn't include the # of threads, but in the post above, I did (one thread for all stitching). But apparently most people are downloading the PDF and not reading the post - so I suppose I should go back and add this to the PDF...! I should've done that several weeks ago - I just haven't gotten around to it yet!
So, yes, split the thread right up its middle, and all stitching is done in one thread (except in the rare instances - eg. the first leaf - where noted otherwise).
Hope that helps!
MC
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