The Embroidery Hoop
What makes an embroidery hoop good? Below are my criteria for a good hoop, and later on, I'll show you how to make a good hoop even better.
The purpose of an embroidery hoop is to hold taut the fabric that's in it. For most embroidery (though not all - depends on the type of stitch), I like my fabric to be drum tight - that is, if I flick it with my fingers, it sounds a bit like a drum. There are different ways to achieve drum-tight fabric for stitching: a slate frame, stretcher bar frames, or a hoop. Now, for a hoop to achieve drum-tightness and maintain it for a reasonable amount of time, a good hoop is essential.
So... my question: what makes a hoop good? This (below) is a good hoop:
This is a 7" round hoop that's 5/8" deep. It has all-brass hardware, and the outer ring fits the inner ring very well, without any warping.
The hoop is made from birch wood and is strong and solid - unless you're super-duper ridiculously strong (like Captain Caveman strong), I don't think you could bend it out of shape with your hands! It's got a natural finish and is smoothly polished, so there are no splintery bits that can snag your threads or your hands.
When the rings are together and the outer ring is tightened, there are no gaps between the outer ring and the inner. They're a perfect match. (Awwwww...)
The hardware, again, is all brass. The brass brackets are not flimsy - they're strong and durable, and they don't bend, no matter how much you tighten the screw. The screw has outer ridges that serve as grips for tightening, and it also has a slash in it for a screwdriver, so that you can Really tighten the thing up.
This is a good hoop. The 5/8" depth is perfect for medium weight fabrics, though I also use it on some finer weight fabrics as well. Muslin, shadow weight linen, dower quality linen - this hoop works with all of them. For heavier weight fabric, like linen twill, I'm more inclined to use a 7/8" deep hoop, but this hoop actually works fine with twill, too. It's a good all-purpose hoop in an all-purpose size. The 7" diameter ring is an easy fit for my hands. Anything larger, actually, becomes cumbersome when it comes to working on the fabric in the middle. I generally like 6" and 7" hoops best.
When you buy a hoop, you want to look for one that fits well in your hands. You should be able to hold the edge of your hoop in your palm, secured by your thumb, and stretch your fingers easily to the center of the hoop. Larger hoops (10" and larger, especially) are generally best managed with some kind of stand to support them (or at least the lip of a table), so that, when necessary, you have both hands free to reach the center of the fabric in the hoop.
The hoop featured above is a Hardwick Manor hoop, made in Germany and imported into the States by Access Commodities. You can find these hoops through many fine online needlework shops. I usually get mine through Needle in a Haystack.
A hoop pointer: Always take your fabric out of your hoop when you finish a stitching session. Doing so reduces the chance of permanent hoop marks or dirt rings. Plastic hoops with a lip are more prone to dirt rings than good wooden hoops are, though, because the lip tends to catch dust and dirt.
Coming up later: I'll show you how to bind a hoop easily, to achieve better long-lasting tension and to eliminate stress on your fabric. I don't bind all my hoops, but I do bind some, and I like them bound. I'll show you how!
The purpose of an embroidery hoop is to hold taut the fabric that's in it. For most embroidery (though not all - depends on the type of stitch), I like my fabric to be drum tight - that is, if I flick it with my fingers, it sounds a bit like a drum. There are different ways to achieve drum-tight fabric for stitching: a slate frame, stretcher bar frames, or a hoop. Now, for a hoop to achieve drum-tightness and maintain it for a reasonable amount of time, a good hoop is essential.
So... my question: what makes a hoop good? This (below) is a good hoop:
This is a 7" round hoop that's 5/8" deep. It has all-brass hardware, and the outer ring fits the inner ring very well, without any warping.
The hoop is made from birch wood and is strong and solid - unless you're super-duper ridiculously strong (like Captain Caveman strong), I don't think you could bend it out of shape with your hands! It's got a natural finish and is smoothly polished, so there are no splintery bits that can snag your threads or your hands.
When the rings are together and the outer ring is tightened, there are no gaps between the outer ring and the inner. They're a perfect match. (Awwwww...)
The hardware, again, is all brass. The brass brackets are not flimsy - they're strong and durable, and they don't bend, no matter how much you tighten the screw. The screw has outer ridges that serve as grips for tightening, and it also has a slash in it for a screwdriver, so that you can Really tighten the thing up.
This is a good hoop. The 5/8" depth is perfect for medium weight fabrics, though I also use it on some finer weight fabrics as well. Muslin, shadow weight linen, dower quality linen - this hoop works with all of them. For heavier weight fabric, like linen twill, I'm more inclined to use a 7/8" deep hoop, but this hoop actually works fine with twill, too. It's a good all-purpose hoop in an all-purpose size. The 7" diameter ring is an easy fit for my hands. Anything larger, actually, becomes cumbersome when it comes to working on the fabric in the middle. I generally like 6" and 7" hoops best.
When you buy a hoop, you want to look for one that fits well in your hands. You should be able to hold the edge of your hoop in your palm, secured by your thumb, and stretch your fingers easily to the center of the hoop. Larger hoops (10" and larger, especially) are generally best managed with some kind of stand to support them (or at least the lip of a table), so that, when necessary, you have both hands free to reach the center of the fabric in the hoop.
The hoop featured above is a Hardwick Manor hoop, made in Germany and imported into the States by Access Commodities. You can find these hoops through many fine online needlework shops. I usually get mine through Needle in a Haystack.
A hoop pointer: Always take your fabric out of your hoop when you finish a stitching session. Doing so reduces the chance of permanent hoop marks or dirt rings. Plastic hoops with a lip are more prone to dirt rings than good wooden hoops are, though, because the lip tends to catch dust and dirt.
Coming up later: I'll show you how to bind a hoop easily, to achieve better long-lasting tension and to eliminate stress on your fabric. I don't bind all my hoops, but I do bind some, and I like them bound. I'll show you how!
Posted By: Mary Corbet on Wednesday, July 29, 2009
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I'm not sure if my hoop is that particular German brand, but it is a German hoop. They know how to make them there!
I know hoops and stretcher bar frames, but until now have never come across slate frames. What are they and when do you use them?
Thanks for the criteria for a good hoop!
But question...when one uses a smaller hoop (like 6", which I also prefer) how does it affect your embroidery previously done on the piece? ie, when you move the hoop to a different area and it has to be placed over the work already completed?
Thanks,
Susan
I am always trying to find a good hoop. Thanks!
Ah, yes, Hardwicke Manor hoops--the best! They may seem expensive, especially when comparing them to the horrible cheap hoops sold in craft stores, etc., but they're worth every penny. The cheap ones are definitely a waste of money (even if they're free! :-). I once crushed one of the smaller ones in my hand without much effort. I've never had much luck with plastic hoops either; they're too slippery or something.
I would also caution against Elbensee hoops which are similar and less expensive than Hardwickes, but not as nice. I bought a couple on-line (i.e., sight unseen) and had to use steel wool on them as they were not as well finished as the Hardwicke Manor hoops. They don't seem quite as sturdy either, but are serviceable. I'd rather pay the extra cost, though, and buy Hardwickes.
My favourite sizes are 6-8" round, 5/8" thick. They feel good in my hands. The thick hoops are wonderful and just give you a little more to hold on to. I think they hold the tension on the fabric better than the thinner hoops.
Hoops are always my first choice for embroidery projects (over frames) because I'm impatient to get to the stitching and I can mount a project very quickly in a hoop. I like to use hoops in classes for this very reason. In addition, hoops seem more portable to me than frames. There are definitely times when you should use a frame, but if I can possibly use a hoop for a project I do. I want to stitch, not lace up a frame! :-)
One last thing: please use a screwdriver to tighten the screw! There's a screwdriver slot for a reason. When I started using a screwdriver to tighten the hoop the improvement in the quality of my work was very noticeable. My stitching tension was orders of magnitude above and beyond what it had been. In fact, I recently had to replace the screw on my favourite hoop as I'd worn out the slot from many, many projects. (I was able to get a new screw from Access Commodities via Hedgehog Handworks.) Remember, too, that you have to maintain the tightness of your fabric. You can't just mount the piece and never tighten it again. When you start noticing any play in the fabric tighten it up.
Hi, all!
Thanks for your comments! Margaret, thanks for the information and endorsement!!
I'll be showing you how to bind a hoop and tighten it up in the next couple days, covering as well the question of moving the hoop over other embroidered areas.
You can read about slate frames here:
Dressing a Slate Frame
Slate frames come in smaller sizes, too, and are available through Hedgehog Handworks.
Mary, Thanks for all the tips. I just ordered one of these frames. I'm taking your tutorial on shading. I want to get good enough to embroider Icons for vestments and other church adornments. I am very impressed with your skill, your ability to simplify complex tasks to share them with others, and perhaps mostly with your passion to share the art of the needle with others so we can create beauty as well. Thank you!
Nestor
In May, I attended an all day embroidery session called May Day that is organised by my Embroiders Guild.
One of the classes I attended a Wessex embroidery workshop with Gay Eaton, and I asked her 'Should I bind my hoop?"
She replied, "Yes please."
So I eagerly await you post on how to bind a hoop.
Margaret C. is right about the hoops; as a beginning surface embroiderer it's made the difference in the consistency of my work.
Fr. Nestor: I also hope to embroider my own stole someday (although I love all church embroidery). Wish my church had more of this (we normally don't do vestments). Regardless, it's a beautiful and distinctive art form. I'm taking Mary's shading class, too, and expect to gain some great skills!
Hi Mary,
I have a query but its not related to the current post but something which I am working on currently. Its brazilian embroidery. I don't understand how to secure the back of the stitches(which are mostly bullions, french knots)and I fear that they mighty come undone after a while of using it :(. Since the thread is rayon its quite slippery and knots come undone very easily. I wish you could help in out in this.
Thanks
Kirti
Hi, Kirti,
I have several articles here for beginning your threads. The concepts are the same, even if you aren't stitching on a line. Start the threads the same way, and then cover up your starting point with your bullion stitch.
Also, take a look at the bullion rose bud video tutorial. I show how to start and end threads on that...
Hope that helps...
MC
Hi Mary,
Thanx for your reply. will try it out and let you know how its going.
Till then take care :)
Kirti.
I have recently returned to the embroidery that I first learned as a child from my mother. She taught me with the very old style spring based metal hoops. I am glad to say that I still have several different sizes. They seem much easier to use than those never tight enough screws. Unfortunately mother has misplaced hers and won't use anything else. Any idea where I can get examples of these? Thanks. Maybe you can also explain why they quit making those old style hoops.
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