About

Mary Corbet

writer and founder

 

I learned to embroider when I was a kid, when everyone was really into cross stitch (remember the '80s?). Eventually, I migrated to surface embroidery, teaching myself with whatever I could get my hands on...read more

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Rare Treasures: Fine Threads for Whitework

 

Amazon Books

Once upon a time, whitework embroidery was different from most of what we see today in the world of whitework.

This isn’t to say that we don’t see beautiful whitework embroidery produced today. Not at all! Because we do! Take, for example, many of the exquisite pieces of Jenny Adin-Christie (like this one). Beautiful!

But in some respects it is still different from the fine whitework of ages past.

Perhaps the best visual example of what I mean can be found in the book Lady Evenlyn’s Needlework Collection by Mary-Dick Digges, et al., where you can see cataloged the extraordinary and extensive collection of astounding whitework pieces amassed by Lady Evelyn Steward Murray (1868-1940). In fact, if you are in any way drawn to whitework embroidery and its history and development, it’s well worth adding a copy of this book to your library if you can get your hands on it.

In any case, the whitework of old is different. And it’s different for a number of reasons. Generally, we can just say “things change.” Fashions change. Tastes change. Society and trends and fads and wars and social upheaval and marketing and on and on – these influence the interest, value, time, effort, and more that we put into things that, in the past, may have garnered more interest, more effort, more value, more time, more care, and so forth.

And when Things Change, more things change – including the availability of materials. When the wider-spread ability or interest in using certain materials diminishes, manufacturers stop making those materials. A diminishing population of skilled or interested parties results in an extinct supply of the materials used by that smaller and smaller skilled segment of the population. It is, in a sense, the rule of supply and demand driven by the bottom line.

A few things have definitely changed in the “material world” of fine whitework embroidery, and the two most notable are fabric and threads. Today, it is nearly impossible to find the same exquisite quality of linen that was used a century ago. Handle or examine antique linens and you’ll know what I mean!

And it is nearly impossible to find some of the threads that were used in fine whitework. They are simply not made because they are not in demand. The skilled populace that used them, the interest in using them, and perhaps even the skill to manufacture them have diminished or disappeared. Because Things Change. C’est la vie!

Vintage / Antique DMC threads for whitework embroidery
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Finishing: Setting Up Some Hem Work

 

A week or so ago, I finished stitching this project that I wrote about here.

The project is called Clara’s Garden, and the full kit for it is available in my shop, here. It’s quite a satisfactory piece to work, and I think it will look nice on my entryway table, under a statue or vase.

This was my “home” project for evening stitching, and it was good company while it lasted! I’m kind of glad it’s not completely finished, actually. I still need to hem it, and for that, I’ll do a decorative hemstitch of some sort. I haven’t really figured out what stitch I’ll use, but I would like it to be a little more decorative than a regular hemstitch. We shall see!

Finished counted work - Clara's Garden folk embroidery project
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Fourth-of-July Side Project: Lots of Pennants!

 

Breaking from our regular programming, I’ll take you on a small diversion today and show you my own recent “small” diversion. While this is needle-and-thread related, it isn’t really embroidery related. At the end of the article, I’ll refer you to a similar past project that has to do with embroidery, though.

I made 4th-of-July decorations this year. This is unusual on a number of levels, not least of which is the fact that I rarely use a sewing machine and I’m not that great at it when I do.

4th of July (Independence Day) is the quintessential summer holiday in most American small towns. It’s a picnic day, a cookout day, a day for fireworks and parades and parks and pools, rivers, ponds and lakes, sandy lots and corn on the cob, and, for most of the country, it’s a sweltering hot summer day where you get sticky and sweaty and bug-bit while eating hotdogs and hamburgers all in the name of celebrating the events of 1776 and thereabouts.

It’s a big one this year – the semiquincentennial. The big 250. And it just so happens that the 4th of July this year, for my family, coincides with extended family coming to town for their summer break.

And that means we’re having a Big Ole Party. And, on another level of Unusual, the party’s at my house instead of my sister’s.

And that’s all a roundabout way of explaining why I got the hair-brained idea to make my own decorations.

Pennant banners for 4th of July on Front Porch
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Thread Drawer RE-organization!

 

These are my thread drawers. I wrote about them a long time ago – thirteen years ago, as a matter of fact.

Until recently, the drawers were organized in a pretty basic system: A series of drawers would be dedicated to one brand and type of thread. So, for example, DMC stranded cotton occupied some 8 or so drawers. Each drawer (or two) was dedicated to a color family: two drawers full of green DMC stranded cotton; two drawers of reds; one drawer of purples, and so forth.

If I needed red DMC stranded cotton, I went to the “red” DMC stranded cotton thread drawer and dug around for the specific color number I was looking for – or, if I wasn’t looking by number but rather by shade or tone, I rummaged till I found the shade or tone I was looking for, or I referenced the real thread color chart, found the shade I wanted, and then rummaged for the number.

You can image that such rummagings are not conducive to efficiency.

Organization of Thread Drawers by Color Cards
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Goldwork Roses Side by Side

 

Occasionally, we dig out projects in the studio that need to be finished, or at least that we need to re-visit, to find out where we are and what we need to do to get them finished.

This rose project detailed below is one such instance.

The project began ok, went pretty quickly, but then got derailed when we realized that the finishing approach that we originally intended to take wasn’t going to work.

Eventually, though, I’ve got to get these OFF this slate frame! So I need to get my brain around a finishing solution.

Goldwork Roses
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Kimbell Art Museum Exhibit in Ft Worth – Worth It!

 

If you happen to live in the Dallas / Ft Worth area of Texas – or perhaps anywhere in the midwest and you ache for a road trip – you might find this particular exhibit at the Kimbell Art Museum in Ft. Worth, worth a linger.

If you can’t make it to Texas by July 12th, though, you’ll miss it. I know! Short notice!

But if you can’t make it, you can still enjoy the exhibit from a distance. Here’s a look!

Holy Sepulcher Exhibit at Kimbell Art Museum, 2026
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Prickly Bits & Linen Choices

 

I’ve been stitching a second (or is it third?) approach to a small blackberry project that I’ll be releasing here on Needle ‘n Thread as a stitch-along this summer.

With this project, I wanted to use a natural colored linen, because I’m including some blossoms that are very light, and they will show up better against a natural background as opposed to a white background. I also like the look of this type of design (only slightly stylized, a bit “loose” and natural) on natural colored linen. It works.

The linen I’m using is not high count – it’s a 32/33 thread count weave (so not perfectly “even weave”) – but the weave is fairly full. The linen threads fill up the fabric surface pretty well, so you don’t have that airy, separated-weave look that you’ll often find in some linens made for counted work.

Linen choices and prickly design bits
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