I’m going to indulge in one of my favorite needlework topics today – ecclesiastical embroidery. When I found out that there was (finally!) a new book on the topic coming out, you can bet I was pretty excited!
I ordered it right away from the UK (it’s not released in the US until this April) and received it last week.
Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Techniques and Projects by Heather Lewis is both an instructional and a project book, as the title promises. It’s a hard-bound book published by The Crowood Press. It covers the standard approaches to embroidery used to embellish the accoutrements of worship, as well as information on symbolism, design, and construction of some liturgical items.
Let’s take a look at it up close, shall we?

As far as I can figure, it’s been a long time since a book devoted to ecclesiastical embroidery has been published for the wider embroidery world. While I’ve found some small church-published pamphlets here and there, and some lesser-known publications, like the late Elizabeth Morgan’s Sewing Church Linens, I don’t think there have been any books that address the general principles and techniques of church embroidery since Beryl Dean (50’s – 80’s).
As an overall impression, what I like about Heather Lewis’s book is that it covers the general principles and techniques of church embroidery with a classic and timeless approach. While there are some approaches, materials, and the like that are newer than those found in earlier books, thanks to better “technology” in textiles, overall her book presents content that will withstand – and has withstood – the test of time.
Let me put it this way: there aren’t any strange innovations in here that will date themselves over the next few decades. And I think that’s a good thing.

In the nine chapters of the book, the topics covered include materials & equipment, embroidery design, preparation, techniques & stitches, Advent and Lent, Festivals, Pentecost, Ordinary Time (these are projects associated with different times of the liturgical year), and construction.
The book also includes patterns and a glossary of terms. There’s also information on suppliers located in the UK.

The introduction gives a bit of background, history, and general information about ecclesiastical embroidery. The general information includes topics such as types of vestments and liturgical colors. This is all written from the perspective of the Anglican liturgy, so there are some slight differences if you’re creating works for Catholic sacristies.

In the introduction, there are images of a couple samplers of ecclesiastical embroidery worked by students of the RSN in the early 1900’s. I absolutely love these images! They’re beautiful – and they depict such an incredibly high standard of work.

The introduction is really a wealth of information – especially for embroiderers interest in church embroidery, but unfamiliar with terminology and so forth.

The section on materials & equipment covers everything from materials – fabrics to threads to other embellishments, including gemstones, braids, fringes – to tools, including needles, frames, scissors, beeswax, paints, and sundry.
All very useful information!

In the chapter on embroidery design, the author talks about symbolism, about where to find ideas and inspiration, and about developing your own designs.

This section ends with a very helpful overview of creating the order of work – an important part of any multi-faceted needlework undertaking. Heather supplies a general guideline for the typical order of work on these types of projects.
Order of work is a helpful concept to understand when you’re designing your own project for ecclesiastical embroidery. Often, you have to think of the design in pieces and parts that go together, building on each other to the completed image.

The next chapter is all about preparation – setting up the fabric and frame, transferring designs, layering fabrics appropriately, and so forth.

Then, we move in to techniques and stitches.
There are three common “umbrella” techniques used in ecclesiastical embellishment: surface embroidery, appliqué, and goldwork. The author covers all three of these in this section.

Using step-by-step photos and instructive text, the author walks the reader through the various techniques typical in ecclesiastical work.

Throughout this section, you’ll find all kinds of helpful tips, too.
There’s lots of excellent instruction here – and it can, of course, be applied to all kinds of embroidery.

The photos are nice and clear – excellent for learning.

Then we move into projects that are organized by liturgical seasons or feast.

Each project develops step-by-step with photos and text. You’ll learn about material choices, stitch choices, and so forth along the way.

This is a burse (it’s like an “envelope” that holds the small linen called the corporal), exquisitely embroidered. This is my favorite project in the book – I like the style of it and I like the techniques chosen to execute it. I also like the fabric choice, and of course, there are instructions for constructing the burse, too – very helpful!

The step-by-step development of each project is super helpful for the learner. It’s a great way to build confidence as you work through a project like this!

We move from the projects into a section on construction. For me, construction is always a bit of a bear, when it comes to ecclesiastical work. In the book, the author focuses on constructing two manageable pieces for church use: a stole and a burse. These are good starter projects, before moving onto larger pieces like chasubles or copes!

Again, all you need to know is laid out before you in step-by-step photos.

Finally, the book ends with a section of templates (line drawings) for the projects, plus a glossary, and a list of resources for those in the UK looking for supplies.
In a Nutshell
Ecclesiastical Embroidery by Heather Lewis is an excellent book for anyone interested in undertaking church needlework. While it doesn’t cover everything, it covers a lot! It’s well written, clear, and accessible, even if you’re a beginner. It’s not just a great starting point, but it’s a good reference for any stage embroiderer.
If ecclesiastical embroidery is on your radar, you’ll want this in your library!
In the US, you can pre-order the book on Amazon. It’s coming out in April. I have it listed on my Amazon Recommendation Page here, under the list “Browse my Recommendations.”
In the UK, you can find it through The Crowood Press.
The link to my Amazon Recommendations page is an affiliate link. This means that Needle ‘n Thread receives a small commission on any purchases made through that page.
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