This morning, I’m Musing Over Things.
Actually, I’ve been musing over Things for the past many weeks. But this morning, I’m developing detailed lists from my musings on Things.
I want to fill out my Topic Lists with some more relevant, useful needlework topics – topics that you find relevant and useful. So I’m going to propose a question to you, and I hope you can take a little time to answer it.
Before we delve into the question, though, I thought I’d mention what’s on the table here at work. Since it’s Friday and we’re halfway through January, it seems appropriate to show you something related to actual stitching!
This piece of linen and these colors are on the work table. I’ll probably extend the colors a little, tweak the palette slightly, maybe add some embellishment ideas, before something actually begins to develop with this, but I have this idea in the works, and I like these colors for it.
Imagine it with just a touch of gold, too. The tiniest touch.
What do you reckon? Good colors? Should they be extended? Any recommended additions? Subtractions? Substitutions?
What’s Your Problem?
This is my big question for you: What causes you frustration when stitching? What really tangles your thread, crumbles your cookie, sinks your ship, topples your tower when you’re in the midst of a stitching project?
Do you have a particular stitching difficulty that needs troubleshooting?
Is there any aspect of your embroidery that has prompted you to proclaim “is there a better way” or “surely this can’t be that complicated” or “how do people make this look so easy” or “why does this always happen to my stitching”?
Is there any particular difficulty or challenge that turns you off from embroidery – that could be a barrier to your picking up a needle again?
I would love to hear about your pet stitching frustration, obstacle, or challenge – something that you’d like to troubleshoot, that you’d like to learn how to overcome – problems that you’d like solved (or at least mitigated). Or perhaps just general stitching difficulties that you’d like to see discussed.
Over the years, I’ve enjoyed troubleshooting needlework problems and writing about it, and I’d like to develop a few more helpful articles this year that can help make us all better stitchers.
So that’s my plan, and you can help me! Leave a comment below or drop me an email and tell me about any current stitching problem or challenge that has you befuddled.
Sometimes when stitching long and short stitching on curved areas,like petals or leaves,I have trouble achieving smooth flow of color changes. Sometimes it ends up in bands,not a good look. Oh and I like your color choices, especially the sea glass greens!
I love the look of the satin stitch but mine never come out looking that good
Thank you for this chance, Mary. I worry that you will receive 1000s of problems of all kinds. I will think about this carefully, but two things jump out at me to start.
I love what can be done, what is shown in the finest books, with counted work. I find this area of stitching difficult. I don’t like the process of counting and getting the needle in exactly the right space. But this really has to be done correctly to work well with the techniques and create the beautiful pieces. It seems that those who do a lot of counted work, love it because of its precision, that there is no guess work. Is there any way for me to make this kind of needlework easier, not just on my eyes, but with t the techniques? I am aware the many to do this work aspire to using linen with high thread counts, and I have to try to find the lowest thread counts possible ! I want so much to excel in this area of needlework, and I put off other things to take it on, but then I resist because of the frustrations I experience. Maybe I should just let it all go.
I’m very organized about my time and I have it marked out on the calendar.
I don’t want to be bothered by all sorts of things like “did you pay this already?”
etc. etc.
I would like a separate house, but that wouldn’t work because I have a phone.
I would like to shut the door. ”
Would you like a cut of tea and off I go, cool it off a bit with ice, then I read the mail and
Off my calendar already
I would like to NOT get disturbed!!! (for a cup of tea?????)
I mostly stitch sampler-style pieces with white space around them. I rashly bought a kit for a cushion which is completely stitched (no blank spaces) and the chart covers 12 sheets of A4 paper. I’ve been procrastinating in sheer fear – it’s for an 80th birthday and that birthday is now only 18 months away! My worst nightmare is miscounting and having to unpick and try to remedy – I have dyscalculia so it does happen.
What would help me start, and do you recommend starting in the middle of the canvas, or in one of the corners, for a big project?
Im not sure my “problems” are solvable! They are tiny frustrations that change from day to day!! I can’t get the magnifier to focus quite right. Or just WHERE was I on this chart? Or my thread tangles continually (this changes from day to day — same thread!!!). Or I have just TOO MANY unfinished projects that weigh on my heart! That I can’t seem to clamp down and FINISH those beaded rose petals and leaves that go on a beaded project that took over a year to complete! Focus — jumping from frivolite to another! (gold work, white work, counted, surface, etc. etc. etc.) Seeing new threads and “talking myself down.”!!! Looking at J.AdinChristie’s work and wanting to DO IT ALL!! Ack! There is NO helping me!
I would add some black to that color pallet. A bit of black always makes the other colors pop.
My pet peeve is when you use multiple strands of floss, one or two strands become shorter than the others. Why is that and how can I overcome it? And yes I do strip my floss.
My thread is constantly getting tangled and knotted. I try to unwind the thread periodically; I try to slightly twist my needle each time the thread is pulled through the fabric; I even completely unthread my needle and try to straighten out the thread. I always separate the threads individually when pulling them from the skein, and put them together going the same direction before I start stitching (if using more than one strand). But tangles just seem inherent in my technique! What am I doing wrong??
Thanks Mary!
My biggest issue is when I am struggling to master a new (to me) stitch. I got stuck on the bullion stitches in the lovey tape measure tutorial and have not been able to finish it. I have spent quite a bit of time trying to improve the stitch but so far it’s not good enough to forge ahead with the project.
My pet stitching problem is my pet! A cat steals my chair if I get up and I have to transfer everything to the other recliner! After all, I have just kindly warmed it up for him!
Without knowing what the project is, Mary, the colors look great.
Stitching annoyances?
Thread that keeps knotting
Cross-stitch charts that are printed too small or that have used symbols too hard to differentiate
There must be more, but those are all that come to mind just now and I’m sure they’ll be submitted by others!
Thank you, Mary, for all you do for us stitchers!!
Metallic thread – just yikes!
Hmmm…love your colors! I’d love to see a fuschia-purple shade! Kind of unexpected with the reds/oranges, but that’s what my mind’s eye says!
I love the look of crewel, especially yours and all the other extremely talented stitchers, but I am an accountant and have done cross stitch my whole life. So my problem with crewel is there are no exact lines or dots to follow so I hesitate taking up any demanding crewel projects. Maybe if I had started earlier in life, I might be better at it. I also do quilting which is not as precise as cross stitch but I manage to make it demanding (a friend that started me quilting, told me there were people that move their sewing machine needle one stitch width left and right). At the time I thought that was ridiculous and now I do it all the time!
Hello Mary,
I look forward to reading your newsletters and emails. I love your writing style and how much detail you put into all you do! Alas, I am an aspiring newbie to hand embroidery. I have a hard time starting because I’m afraid I won’t do it correctly (or finish.) I’ve done a few like the autumn tree with some success. The smaller projects are less daunting. Any tips or hints moving forward?
Thanks!
Pam
I am stalled on a project. It has words on the right side which turned out well, and a gracefully curved minimalist bouquet on the left, about 6 stems. I’ve tried different things with those stems and they just don’t work: double lines of outline stitch, chain stitch, whipped stitches, different colors together. Any ideas?
I would like more information on color selection for projects. Is there a system for DMC thread numbers? How to know which green goes with a particular pink in their system (color families)?
Have you ever found a comprehensive listing of which colors were released together? Going all the way back?
How do you decide what type of fabric to use for what project?
List of good fabric sellers especially online.
You may have already answered some of my questions; if you have please provide a link.
Thank you
Denise Albertson
For me the biggest challenge right now is clean transfers! I’ve read every post you (and several other experts) have made on the subject but I still struggle to get crisp lines that are clear to see but don’t bleed outside my desired area. A lot of it is just a skill issue – I’ve never had a controlled hand that can draw clean lines even on paper, and the pens catch on the fabric making it even harder.
Another issue I’m not sure you’ve posted about is keeping constant stitch lengths . Mine tend to be all over the place especially with stem stitch and daisy stitch!
One more thing, a touch of gold thread would be perfect, now that I have a great assortment of metallic thread! ☺️
Hi Mary, My frustration is transferring patterns. I hate it. I will put off a project until I get into the right frame of mind to do it and just get it over with. I always try to take the easiest way possible. I try to buy my projects already stamped but I have a few here at home that need patterns drawn or traced or something and I keep putting it off. Everytime I start one of those projects I google how to transfer a pattern, I always get the same answers. I know I will but I google it anyway. 🙂
My problem is I want to stitch and watch TV at night but my fingers get so cold while stitching that I don’t stitch very long.
A side issue is where to put all the accessories I need when stitching and watching TV. I like to have my feet up for comfort but need all the needles, thread, scissors, pattern, etc. to do the work.
Your passion for stitching touches my joyful heart. Thank you.
I love your project colors and not knowing what this project will be, think a brown or yellow would be beautiful.
The biggest frustration I have when embroidering is having the thread “knob up on itself”, causing bunching or breaking. Thread conditioner helps, not using too long of thread lengths also helps (my handicap!), I use good quality thread so not sure what the issue is (other than not using thread conditioner, using too long of thread lengths, and not letting the thread untwist as I stitch…lol).
One of the things that is literally stopping me from doing any of those beautiful towels that you have on the website is the back. I am pretty sure I would not be able to keep the back looking presentable. Oh yes, I know about weaving the tails through other stitches and such. I am always so sure that they will come loose and look awful, or that I won’t do it right, or there will be knots showing ….. Along the same lines, when making a beautiful thing that is to be used, how does one keep it looking nice? How do these things go through the laundry? Is there a way to keep them from becoming stained and dingy? Yada Yada Yada
Thank you for all your wonderful ideas thus far. I am left handed and have trouble translating videos from right hand to left hand. I need some written instructions like “wrap your thread around the needle from the right or left side, under or over”. It’s possible you have covered this before, but I have missed it. Some tips for left handed embroidery would be nice.
When using silk thread I have trouble with it fraying. What needle should I be using. I try to be careful not to pull
Good morning Mary,
A most interesting question to jump into the new year with.
Not a lot frustrates me. Oh, the occasionally poorly written instructions.
But, what torments me is falling out of love with a wonderful project.
It sits there and looks at me, taunts me, laughs at me, mostly it irritates me
because I’ve spent good money on it and I don’t love it any longer. So, why
spend my precious time doing it?
Have a lovely stitching Friday.
Kathleen
Perhaps a touch of deep teal? My biggest problem is just getting started. I think it’s a fear of failure thing. Weird I know.
Hi Mary, I know you have written at length about bullion knots. I love making them but recently came across a “why is this happening”. As I pull the needle through the fabric moving through all the wraps there seems to be one last little loop that doesn’t go through and is left on the surface right at the hole where the thread has gone through the fabric. Weirdly, this is a new conundrum, I haven’t had it happen in the past. Thanks for any input…
Not the will to do something, but always the time needed to do it.
I find patterns that are too small in print difficult for me to see. I prefer multiple pages patterns, with overlays if possible, instead of just one big sheet of paper. Symbols that are too similar are also a hindrance to my stitching
My biggest problems are my vision and my hands…..both really slow me down. I’ve learned from experience to always use the best tools that I can afford and to never skimp on fabric and thread. Oh!….and keep those grubby mitts clean!
Unfortunately I find embroidery stitching too uncomfortable for me anymore. I cannot use a hoop and stitch. I cannot seem to find a good way to work on a frame. Alas, I can only stitch in hand which does not cut it for embroidery as far as I am concerned. I still enjoy the beauty of embroidery for sure as well as reading your tales of interest.
Hi Mary,
I am always in a dilemma as to which stitches to use to create human hair. I guess this is a broad topic as it depends on which “head” you are putting it on but I wonder if you could at least comment on a few scenarios (ie child’s curly hair, woman’s long straight hair). Thanks for all the great information, techniques and projects! You are truly a gift to all of us!
I’m teaching myself how to do drawn/pulled (I have seen it called both) stitches. I can’t figure out how to end and start lines of work. I can figure it out if I’m using fill stitches in a square, but haven’t figured out how to handle fill stitches on curves, such as flower petals or ovals.
Great question Mary! I have yet to master the oyster stitch, it should be so easy yet mine just fall apart. I also can’t figure out why my bullion knots twist – try to keep the thread straight, yet it sometimes curls. The woven picot stitch also twists and I end up with the hole at the very tip. I think I know what I do wrong, but the errors just sneak in and I can’t figure out why I made that mistake. Thank you! Debra
When a stitch is wrong, trying to “crook” it right.
Im the champion in my club on pulling out after hours of patching, overworking, etc.
Hi Mary, here is one issue I have that upsets me. I tend to leave loops, extra thread at the bottom of my embroidery. This happens mostly when I am tired, in a hurry, or doing difficult stitches and using thicker threads. Or a combination of many of those factors? I’m not sure but it drives me crazy. I guess I don’t pull the thread all the way and when I notice it I am many stitches ahead. Here it is, I’m hoping you have a suggestion for me? Thank you!
I reckon your thread palette and linen are exact matches to my living room/dining room area! Plus, a couple of tiny touches of gold in two partial bits of two lamps, and some bits of black here and there (bits of lamps, picture frames…oh and a bigger “bit”–the piano). Most curious to see the project…
…and eager to read the problem solving.
Cheers,
Linda
I have issues with tension. I’m either too tight or too loose which causes my stitches to look inconsistent. I’ve tried tightening the fabric in my hoop or having it looser in the hoop. I have a friend that does not use a hoop and her stitches are consistent.
I find satin stitch and long short the hardest stitches to use. I am never happy with the results and usually try to find alternative stitches or patterns.
This may not be the type problem you are looking for but I have problems finds good left handed directions for speciality stitches.
The most frustrating thing I’ve run into is trying to work at too small a scale, one where, even with reading glasses and a good magnifying light, it’s hard to see what I’m doing.
I find it difficult to transfer designs I have created (generally modifications of ones I have see online) onto the fabric — how to scale up, how much to scale up how to center a design I know I could create a full size paper model but that involves many trials and mostly errors so is there some way to scale up or down a created pattern to a specific size fabric without trial and error
Hi Mary, I wrote before the holidays – probably too much going on at the time – but I do have a question about a mystery stitch I have come across. I repair quilts. Recently I was working on square patch (circa 1960) with the line of embroidery between patches within each block. I though it was a Herringbone, but it wasn’t. It looked similar to a Barbed Herringbon, but that stitch has an extra twist to it. I have photos of the original stitch and a series showing how I recreate it – it stitches from R to L into new fabric. A fellow quilt repairer just started a quilt and we are surprised to see the same stitch. We can’t find it as a variation in any book or website so far. Can you identify it?
Dear Mary,
Thank you so for you continual education, support, and inspiration for we stitchers out here.
I usually have problems and spend so much time tryin to thread needles, mostly when working with multiple threads, and even with needle threaders. I am planning to get needles with large eyes, but wonder if that is something you recommend.
Thank you for all,
Beverly
Whats my question?
What stitches to use where?
Often doing small wool projects- I love to embellish and have things pop rather than the same ol blanket stitch-
Also when seeing a blank canvas- that needs filling- leaves, a jacket-
Using a split stitch.. I seem to hesitate- never being sure about the blending process-
Hello Mary, great question, thanks for asking!
My problem is so simple I am almost embarrassed to ask.
I took a class in Sashiko and one of the designs was a little motif that looks like 5 equal signs. 2 tiny parallel stitches in the middle and four little equal signs at each corner. They were sewn on a grid drawn on the fabric, several 1/2 centimeter lines were drawn vertically and horizontally to look like graph paper.
The motifs were centered on the grid where the lines met. You skipped an intersection then sewed another motif. You used the opposite intersection on the next row.
In the class we were taught to use one thread for every row of stitching, and go all the way across the fabric. So there were 6 threads going across back of fabric for each row of motifs. We also stitched from the back side so we could see and follow the grid.
So basically, 10 little straight stitches in each motif.
But, Oh my goodness!! My stitches were all kinds of crazy. They were not straight, were not even, were wonky, were slanted, were every kind of awful!! I could not make straight stitches.
The fabric was a navy (indigo) cotton, the weave was too fine to count threads. The thread was a soft white cotton sashiko thread. It is not tightly twisted and has a lovely spread especially against the dark fabric.
The longer runs of even sashiko stitches I thought were pretty well done. My stitches looked even, and my tension was good.
So what should I try on widely spaced single stitches that should form a very rigid geometric pattern?
Thanks for reading to the end of a rather long question. I wish I could sed a pix, it really would be eorth a thousand words!
Best wishes for 2025. Looking forward to stitching with you.
Deb Swackhamer
My stitch dilemma is more one of self inflicted frustration. I am studying online with the Royal School of Needlework and the modules are great. We work through the designs, stitch plans and techniques all good not a bother. BUT! If I try and work on something myself I start my design research which ends up mindlessly trawling Instagram mainly only to be overawed and frustrated and completely put off going any further with my own work. Someone always seems to have a better idea, design, thread etc. How do you keep yourself motivated to create your wonderful stitch along projects and keep them fresh and clear?
My other question is when will you ship to Ireland ;-D
I think more tips on using different metallic threads, I have some collected, but never sure just how to use them. Do you combine them with other threads to sew stitches? Which ones are the easiest to use. Love following your emails. Thanks…I also love using your videos when I teach classes!!!
Two things, one is stitching with metallic embroidery threads. I always seem to tangle them or one will slip and make a loop and I have to keep correcting it. the other is the old bugaboo of thread storage. I have a VERY small space. So far my best option has been to store threads of the same color family (i.e. pinks, reds, oranges) in ziplock bags (see through) in a plastic bin. Lothe next project.ve the color family you posted for
I think the colors look nice! Hmmmm…. problems. What’s my problem? My biggest problem used to be my satin stitching not looking as nice as I wanted, but after I learned from Needle’n’Thread about split stitch outlining and perpendicular padding stitches and odd strand numbers and stitch laying and working center-out, it got a lot better.
I guess thread tangling/knotting is a perennial problem. Shorter lengths and maybe waxing would help!
I think I still don’t understand how to get embroidered text looking as nice as I want it. I read your quick brown fox sampler posts, and your text sure looks lovely, but mine is always kinda… skew-wiff.
I like the colors chosen with the fabric selection along with the pop of gold added. You got my curiosity up as to what the project will be, can’t wait for it. As for stitching difficulties or challenges I find that along with written instructions, diagrams are very helpful when learning/trying something new. Looking forward to what you come up with this year.
During covid, I started and finished a group of projects.Now that covid is over I find that I have at least 6 unfinished projects which I can’t seem to restart and finish.Any ideas as to how I can get back to working on them?Perhaps I need a snow storm or other such long confinement to restart.Any thoughts will be appreciated
Linda Fenton.
Hi,
I really have problems with tight curves in a stem stitch. (Wish mine were that tight. Sigh.)
Best
Marianne
I’m returning to stitching after a two decade hiatus. Over that time, I would buy kits with the hope I would find time but didn’t. Apparently, I bought a lot of kits.
I hear that fabrics and threads go bad after time. Mine have been stored in a dark, plastic tub in a temperature controlled environment.
What is the truth about old kits and thread? Should I just throw it all out and start fresh? (gasp!) Or is there some leeway here?
I’m working on red work. The pattern calls for a fly stitch between the quilt blocks, but I’m having a very hard time keeping them even. The red is so pronounced against the white, the tiniest difference is so visible.
I’m using stem stitch as a filling stitch and I wish I had someone here to advise me on a few things that aren’t obvious to me. How close should the lines of stem stitch be? Should the stem stitches all be worked in the same direction? Should the wider and narrower part of each line of stitching nest together (because if not there are gaps where you can see through to the ground cloth). In stem stitch you can bring your needle up in the same hole as the end of the previous stitch, or next to the previous stitch, depending on how smooth you want the line to be. Is one of those techniques better than the other for filling?
Thank you, I look forward to reading your new articles. There’s nobody better than you for clearly explaining the nuances of technique.
I struggle with planning the stitches to use in a pattern. I downloaded your Art Nouveau cushion design to stitch on the back of a jean jacket. My struggle is deciding which stitches to use, where to start and how to proceed with the design. Would you please help me undertake my own projects with more confidence?
Thank you so much!
Theresa
Hi Mary, I have been stitching since 2013. I love stitching almost anything, stumpwork, needle painting, blackwork, canvas work, pulled thread work, the list is endless. But there is one thing that always annoys me. I keep getting knots in my thread. Usually when I have completed a row or pattern. I turn it over and there is a small or sometimes big clump of thread. I let my thread unwind as I stitch. I try to check regularly but always when I think that is fine I turn my work over and there is the dreaded clump!! I would love to know what I can do to prevent this from happening.
Heather
I find that I stitch a lot (I made many ornaments but then never finished them), I am always looking for ways to add embroidery to useful things or apparel. I also get frustrated with the lack of surface embroidery designs that can be used like this.
There are just so many pictures you can frame and hang. I would like to do some pillows but again most are the Jacobean style and not anything I would use in my house.
I am fascinated with the Japanese surface embroidery stitch sample books I see posted on Pinterest. I don’t know what class they are from or who the teachers are but I would love to embroidery one.
Hi Mary, happy new year to you! My current problem is how to make the backside of the blanket stitch look as good as the front side? Thanks for your time…Jacki
I have tried a couple of times to use split stitch as a filling and I always get puckering. I don’t know if I need to back the fabric or if it’s a tension issue and I can’t seem to avoid it.
I don’t know if you embroider on appliqued quilt tops (pre-quilted); but I like it and would appreciate suggestions about types of stitches to put where. I just get stuck on indecisions.
thanks
Is there a better way to transfer stitching lines onto wool for applique (such as vines, lettering) than using Glad Press and Seal. It is messy, wrinkles too much and often dislodges stitches when the wrap is removed. I have tried water soluable stabilizer but cannot always use it for some fabrics that should not be moistened. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Well Mary my issue with needlework is one you cannot resolve I’m afraid. My issue is “poorly written instructions”! Your work does NOT come under that category as it is very clear, but over many years I’ve spent time and energy trying to fathom out just what the pattern designers are trying to convey! So often talented designers write up their designs in kits but fail to have their instructions reviewed carefully by good editors. I’ve spoken with a number of other embroiderers trying to understand just what the designer is trying to convey and they all say the same thing: “great design but hopeless instructions” . Not everyone can teach I know but surely if you are going to put a kit design together you would have someone who can edit your notes from the viewpoint of a novice???Years ago I did regular classes with a beautiful embroiderer who could teach and her instructions were fun, clear and encouraging. She took her reader along with her step by step. No confusion in her kits. Yes I does take extra time and care but it definitely IS most essential and half of the job I reckon. Some people can design but do not seem to realise that they cannot teach. Book editors leave a great deal to be desired in this respect. After paying for an expensive book with gorgeous designs one can find it seriously lacking when it comes to excellent, clear and understandable editing. That’s my “beef” Mary. I guess some can “do” but simply cannot convey their message i.e. TEACH. This has been my constant lifelong irritation with the art of needlework. Love your work Mary! Jane from Melbourne, Australia
I love doing embroidery, and I’ve learned so much from your weekly posts. My biggest frustration is threading the metallic threads in a needle. So many needles have a long hole instead of a round hole and metallic threads fray a lot and I don’t find that the needle threaders work well with metallic. I’m presently working on a tiny cross-stitch in 28 count linen. I want to add metallic thread but to use too big a needle will make the tiny hole in the linen big. This frustrates me a lot. I like the colors you’re showing on this email for a future project and I think some gold would look great and in your pile of thread you have some lighter blue with metallic in it that would look good with the blue you’ve picked out.
Bonjour
Mon problème est que je n’arrive pas à finir mes projets de broderie ..je suis souvent déçue par le montage ..ce n’est jamais parfait , le tout fait est mieux réussi !…
J’ai peur de me décevoir…
Confetti stitching!!! It drives me crazy. I would love to have some tips to doing it without losing my mind. Gridding the fabric into tiny grids, maybe? I have only tried to load multiple needles and park them a time or two, but I found I would my working thread around those I’d parked, and if the colors are very close, trying to decide which is which was also frustrating. Help!
I love stitching and am generally happy with the stitched portion of my piece. But then comes the finishing and it all goes down-hill. I did the xmas mitt and really loved how you treated the edging – mine actually came out ok. So please continue showing how you finish your work, especially stitching around the edges. Thank you and Happy New Year! Karin
I would like help with some of the advanced stitches, well advanced for me! Namely the Palestrina stitch is giving me fits. I’m not sure if correcting my tension or flight of the needle would help. “Tackling the Toughies” is my request to help with What is My Problem. Thank you!!
I’m trying to learn stump work,,,,,teacher shows how it looks so easy,,,,,but I need video with closeups and I also have a hard time with needkepainting,,,,something else I’m trying learning
I haven’t take. The time to explore your archives, but if you could help me stitch with metallic thread I’d appreciate that.Love what a bit can do,but mostly avoid it because of all the unraveling.
stay warm,
And thanks
barb
I don’t think you can help me with this, but my biggest frustration is my aging eyes and my eyesight.
I have several!
1 the hand fatigue I get, particularly in My thumb joint when I hold on to a hoop for more than 20 minutes. I would love to stitch for hours but have to keep it to 15 minute stretches.
2. Snarly wool thread!
3. Finding needles that are neither too long nor too short
Scratchy metallic threads drive me crazy.
Currently using Krenik #8 on 32 count linen — and the needle conditioner I have doesn’t make any difference.
I ordered beeswax. Hoping it helps.
Can’t wait to order your recommended metallic threads.
I would like all projects to include instructions on how to begin and finish the stitches used in such projects. It is easy to find videos on how to execute a particular stitch, however, rarely are there suggestions on how to begin/finish. I would love a “how to” guide as it is important, particularly if the back of one’s project is visible.
My really big frustration is when I dont pull the thread all the way through the fabric but think I have and continue stitching only to discover a little further down the track, tangled knotty mess on the back and then find I am just short of thread to finish off. Infuriatiating!!!! I do try to stitch with both hands, i.e. my non dominant hand, (in my case my left) underneath feeling and holding the thread and work as I go and this usually works ok when I am using a frame in a stand but when I am sat in an armchair relaxing in the evenings and perhaps not quite as careful, with one eye on the telly and the frame in hand it happens frequently. So Mary there you have my biggest gripe!
My # 1 problem is ALWAYS having to convert (or at least try to!) embroidery directions for any stitch direction……yes, I am left handed! I don’t know the percentage of stitchers who are lefties like I am, but I believe that there are a lot of us out there. People who write directions (99% are always for right handers, have said things like, “look in a mirror”, or “just do it backwards”, etc. etc, etc, or just totally ignore us. There are very few resources for us lefties, but most of us are left to figure it out for ourselves and many of us have just given up trying! HELP!
Now to get off my soapbox
1) threading the needle
2) burying my thread
When designing my own things or pick up something that does not have any instructions, I struggle with what stitches to do and it takes forever to decide because I want it to be right.
My biggest pain point is items that have a scent/odor to them. Usually these are items I’ve picked up second or been given, but sometimes they are brand new. Odors from dyes and perfumes are the worst, but there’s also the “been in storage a long while” mustiness. Any suggestions?
No stitching issues to troubleshoot but I LOVE the simplicity of the color palette!!
I would like to use embroidery to mend existing clothing. I would like to be able to select the correct needle and thread and stitches to add colorful and interesting patterns to hide a bleach spot on a blouse, a hole in a sock, a small rip in a tee shirt, or a small tear in a pair of jeans.
I would like to add an artful way of preserving clothing that I like and that still has life in it.
I realize that this is a pedestrian use of embroidery; however, it fulfills my utilitarian needs.
Thanks for reading this.
How do people with arthritis in their hands continue stitching? I’ve tried compression gloves, but don’t find them helpful. I don’t want to give up cross stitch.
Tangling & knotted thread is my most frustrating problem when stitching!
I love the coral & green together. can’t wait to see what project you come up with.
Braid stitch. I don’t know why, but I have yet to find a tutorial–even your excellent teaching–that I can replicate successfully. My braid always falls apart, comes unnoticed, no matter how much I practice.
Thanks for asking.
I’m thinking a little bit of black would accent as much as your gold thread idea.
Bonsoir, mon problème est que je suis toujours amoureuse de la broderie et de la dentelle aux fuseaux mais je n’ai pratiquement qu’un seul oeil car j’ai eu un décollement de rétine et pour ça 8 opérations et 12 injections de chimio, sauf que rien n’a réussi .
J’ai 82 ans, mais je ne lâche pas. Je donne des cours de broderie et de dentelle avec l’aide d’une lampe loupe.
Je veux toujours apprendre de nouvelles choses et ton groupe m’en montre un peu plus chaque jour. Je profite de tous les conseils et trucs que tu nous communiques. et je me fais un devoir de les transmettre à mes élèves. Je leur ai même montré ton site. Elles sont emballées. Alors surtout, continue à partager ton savoir, il est très utile. Un gros merci
I would love to know if there’s an uncomplicated way to guesstimate how many skeins of a color I would need for a project.
Say I picked an existing design out of a book with mixed stitches (outline stitches, chain stitches, lazy daisies and so on). I can kind of gauge that some stitches use up more thread than others. But I find myself struggling to buy the right amount of a color. Sometimes I overshoot completely, sometimes I need to do order more.
How do you do it? 🙂
I am completely put off by silk shading. I just don’t seem to be a neat or careful enough stitcher to do this is a satisfying or confident way. Maybe I’m using wrong threads, haven’t practiced enough or perhaps there’s an alternative. Maybe an alternative filling stitch is the way to go. It does limit me because I don’t even attempt it.
Hi Mary
It really grinds my gears when rayon thread and also metallic thread goes fluffy . Grrrrrrrr
My main frustration with working on a design is finding all the instructions in ORDER. Things like:
“use one strand of thread unless particularly specified”
“……using xx mm (or yyy inches) of wire for each wing ……”
I KNEW these instructions had to be there somewhere, and they were, but I had to read through the pattern about 4 times before I spotted them. That’s not exactly fair or true – the “using one strand of thread…” was indeed right at the start of the Embroidery Key.
I know that the people who actually write these instructions have much more knowledge & experience than me, and probably most of them use the same sort of placing of where to put these instructions. Because they KNOW how to write them. But by the time I had found the instruction about the wings (which was indeed included in the “Wings” section), I had forgotten about the single threads bit.
I am thinking about redoing that bit……
And I do try to do different sorts of embroidery each time, so it’s not surprising that I get tangled up sometimes.
Would it be possible to have a “General Instructions” section in all patterns – say, after the “Thread & Needles” and “Embroidery Key”? Or is there a more logical place for it to be?
1. At a mature age… threading needles is a serious pain, even with a threader.
2. Different qualities of thread. What was once top of the line and best quality floss is no longer the case.. where do I go from here, what’s the good stuff now?
3. Storage for all aspects of my needlework addiction. Here’s to hoping some of the ideas are pretty… but not necessary.
PINCUSIONS!!
1. how to prevent needles from disappearing into to the filling – and retrieving them when they do.
2. I like to thread multiple needles when I am doing a multicolored project – say, 20-30 colors. How to keep them at hand (and possibly labeled with symbol and color no.) without the threads becoming tangled.
3. A good interfacing – something the embroidered pincushion needs a lining to keep the filling in, etc. – something that tapestry needles will penetrate easily.
Thank you; you have taught me SO much.
You have a good start on color assortment. I would indeed add some gold and perhaps a taupe. Can’t wait to see what develops.
Making stitches even in length is a frustration for me…it seems to depend on my mood! Also keeping them even in trellis stitch…grrrrr
My difficulty is uniformity. I guess incorrectly most of the time where to put my needle. Straight lines become wonky and chain stitching becomes short stitches then to compensate long stitches, etc.,
Where can you find linen (or a linen blend) that has the defined threads so you can see them if you are stitching in a straight line? As perhaps in the mitten fabric or just a fabric you want to practice on.
This is basic: how do you hold the needle to make it go where you want it to? I believe the method also allows less hand fatigue so you can stitch longer.
Tell us more about thread count: is the number with both threads added together or just warp or weft? Perhaps throw in a bit about fabric weight??
Problem: I’m progressing out of beginner into intermediate stitching. Unfortunately I’m still novice enough to not be able to determine if projects are challenging enough to increase my skills but not so hard that I put it down in frustration. What are the key things to focus on in a project to determine its difficulty?
On Your Table: I would love to see some bling-gold is exciting! I’m a full color gal. Keep the colors bright and happy.
I’ve been embordering for years but have been selling flourcloth towels for about 3 years.
My question is about dmc thread. It seems certain colors are thinner than others. Black and purple are most noticeable, in fact I tend to use 3 instead of my usual 2 strands when using those colors. Is it just my imagination or are certain colors thinner?
Here are my two problems: I really struggle to keep my thread organized in a sane way. I started (years ago) organizing by DMC number, then switched to organizing by color. Both systems broke down because I store my threads in plastic pockets in a big binder and threads don’t always end up back in the same spot in the binder. I mean, it’s not like it’s not working for me, but it isn’t tidy, and sometimes I go buy a threat color for a project that I already have three of…
Second problem: I do a lot of long and short stitch projects (birds and flowers) that I design myself. Figuring out how to map both subtle color changes and stitch direction before I start stitching jams me up. If I just wing it, I often get so-so results.
Thanks for asking!
Athertons Crewel wool 2ply thread – is there correct ‘grain’ I just can’t pick it . I’ve tried the running finger down the length of the thread but I just can’t tell the difference. With small skeins I can at least be consistent but I have bought some larger hanks which cause me problems.
My biggest frustration is finding good quality linen. I’ve tried ordering from amazon and I have purchased what is supposed to be linen from the embroidery section of my big box fabric store but it is never like the linen you use in all of your kits. I’ve wasted a lot of my limited ss money on terrible fabric. That’s frustrating.
Could you explain thread count as it relates to linen, embroidery, cross stitch. What does something like one over two mean?
I am having trouble with the chain stitch. So many loops while making the stitch – first loop and then the loop for the next stitch, tighten the first loop and don’t develop a knot when inserting the needle in the hole where the new stitch was begun. And then, if I have the stitches properly placed but I have dropped the new loop, I can pull out the entire row of stitching! Doing this in floss is so fine. I have done this stitch in crewel thread years ago and did not have the trouble I am having now. And you do like to use this stitch 🙂
I struggle to get patterns consistent, like making all sides of a cross the same. They seem to get slightly off no matter what I do.
Mary, for the project on your work table, maybe a little deep rich, chocolate brown. I don’t know if that fits with the design you’re working up, but it would be pretty with all the other colors you’ve chosen.
As far as problems, my least favorite part of any project…embroidery, sewing, knitting, etc. is having to take something out to do it again. It’s time consuming & the fabric & threads or yarn look worn afterwards. When to take out, plow on, use new thread, how to remediate? Does the misting/drying process help restore the fabric & threads like blocking does for a knitted garment?
Deanna
Hi Mary! Great question…
The thing I struggle with at times is certain specialty threads – whether to iron or wet some of them to get the kinks out, how to stop the end ravelling, how best to start or end a thread like Silk Lame Braid that has different components, etc. A guide on some of these things would be really useful.
Keeping my stitches consistently the same length and looking exactly alike is always baffling for me. Example of exactly alike- I know how to stitch a petal flower but the petals are never as perfect as your examples. Another frustration for me is when stitching on a fabric like linen and following a particular thread in the grain to keep stitches straight I keep getting “off” the chosen thread-is there a “trick” to help ? I enjoy your website so much and the stitch library is amazing. I referred to it yesterday at our Smocking Guild meeting to show a member how to do an embroidery stitch we were practicing. She did not know about the wealth of help that you have online-now you have another follower. By the way I was fortunate to attend RSN for a week in August instructed by Helen McCook. What an experienced and being taught by such a recognized tutor was an amazing experience. Have you heard of Helen? If not check out her work -it’s really lovely. She, like you, is extremely creative and talented!!! Thank you for sharing your talent- it’s a gift!!! Enjoy your week. We might get snow in the south this week-yuck!!!
I embroider mostly on felt, specifically custom gnomes with embroidered gnome hats. It is a medium long story how I became endeared with gnomes so I won’t go into that.
I have a hard time making straight lines. I have
Tried chalk and pencils to draw my custom designs but haven’t found anything that is clear on felt. I have tried marker too. Any suggestions would be great.
I love your site and it is my go to for information and ideas!
Thank you!
Judy
Mary,
First I want take this opportunity to thank you for your dedication to Needle Arts and providing such a wonderful information website. In times past new would be stitching artists would have been guided by experienced stitching artists, but in this day and age this craft is practiced in a more solitary environment. Your website bridges this gap–giving needed information and most importantly–examples of the stitches in a format this is easy to see and follow. Thank you!!
Now to the question: Is there any particular difficulty or challenge that turns you off from embroidery – that could be a barrier to your picking up a needle again?
I have the most problem choosing colors for my project. The next biggest problem is choosing the best and appropriate stitch for my design.
Right now I have two designs hooped and ready to go. In this instance, regarding the color, I hit on the idea of using PowerPoint (Microsoft Office software) to choose my colors for the projects. This got me through the first hurdle but now I need to determine what stitches will look and work best for these projects. I would like to know how you go about determining the best stitches for a project? Any tips?
Thank you, Cindy Brashares
Hi Mary
Any tips on how to avoid tangled threads when doing parking on a one-over-one project?? I gave up on trying…..
thanks so much for your blog, I do enjoy reading it
What’s my problem ? That’s easy ! How to achieve consistently sized stitches.
Truly beautiful embroidery is recognizable by the quality of the stitching, even when the project itself is simple. I know practice makes perfect, of course, but there are so many changing parameters that can affect the work (threads, cloth, technique). Counting threads only works in straight lines and on certain types of cloth. I’m left-handed and I find it particularly difficult to achieve a nice-looking stem stitch. I’m sure I would embroider more if I was more confident of my stem stitch.
Right now I am facing a challenge. I am starting on a new silk shading project using medium weight bridal satin as the ground and would like to stitch with Au Ver a Soie silk threads but don’t know which of threads to use. The project is 6 inch by 6 inch square of a rose along with its foliage. Any input as to which of the Au Ver a Soie silks would be appreciated. And just maybe I am making the project too complicated and should use good ol’ DMC floss.
1. Problem 1: I have 2 large machine projects to finish before I can allow myself to indulge in hand embroidery.
2. I still work which kills time (for the good stuff!) and leaves me braid dead at night.
3. When I was first learning to embroider- my first kit was a rooster ((55+ years ago) tangled thread and lack of supervision frustrated me.
4. Making my own designs is a bit frustrating because I can’t design AS beautifully as you and others. Does stop me, but I struggle with finding the supplies.
But, pressing on, the needles ARE calling.
I wish I had something simple like a technique or lack of proper tools or setup that’s got me flummoxed.
For the last several months, probably closer to a year, my stitching woes are more of a mental thing. Indecision, making things harder in my head than they are, fear of making errors that ruin the project (mainly the stumpwork casket on this one), too many distractions, disappointment that prior finished projects did not live up to the image in my head, etc. – all are striking me on various projects I have started or kitted up. I guess at least in my favor I haven’t kitted up or started yet another project only to let it sit and mock me?
In short – what have you for all sorts of self-inflicted mental roadblocks?
Need help with threads constantly twisting no matter what length I cut them or if I use wax. French knots – avoid them since I can’t make them consistently the same. Use beads instead sometimes. Do not like different looking french knots when they are the same size. Thank you!
Hi, Mary!
My biggest stitching obstacles involve time and space.
I don’t have as much time to stitch as I’d like, due in part to a full schedule, but also because I categorize stitching as a leisure activity, meaning I don’t pick up my needle until I’ve done all my work for the day. This results in my being already fatigued when I begin, so I avoid stitching more complicated projects. I am unhappy that some beloved projects are going undone because they’re “too hard to stitch when I’m tired.” Some of the time constraints have naturally resolved with work schedule changes, such as my last child graduating from high school, leaving behind all the related parent duties. Another solution might be me setting aside a regular time on a daily or weekly basis for needlework earlier in the day.
One issue with stitching space is similar: I like to stitch “on the go” in waiting rooms, at kids’ sporting events, or at stitch-ins with friends, but I tend to bring easy (small, unembellished, simple) travel projects so my “best” projects are not subjected to heavy handling & possible soiling, or mistakes I might make while chatting with friends. I want to set up a permanent spot at home for my “best” projects, where they will stay safe & be ready for me–including being safe from inquisitive pets.
This dream of a permanent stitching spot has been ongoing for years & throughout several moves. (As a military spouse, I always think the next house will have a good space for my needlework, but somehow it never does.)
In tandem with a permanent stitching spot, I’d like useful needlework supply storage. You’ve discussed this before now, & I’ve tried some of your ideas, with mixed results. This is due in part to simply the differences between people, but also because my storage must be moved constantly. Now, I have a house I expect to inhabit for a decade, so I have a new opportunity to create a useful storage system.
These are my thorniest needlework issues. I look forward to solving them so I can really enjoy creating beautiful needlework in a focused manner, taking my needle work to the next level beyond simply a pastime.
Hi! This will seem very trivial no doubt, but I never seem to be able to find the exact middle of my fabric. My stitches are therefore always a bit to one side or another. Is there any easy solution to this or does it really matter?
Thanks, Debbie.
Tension! Even in my knitting, I tend to pull stitches too tight in my free style embroidery. Buttonhole stitch is one I can think of immediately. Thanks. Your workmanship is outstanding and we all enjoy learning from you.
I would have to say what really hold me up in transferring designs to fabric. I’m so afraid after I would do the prick and pounce, that as I’m connecting the dots, I would wipe some out. So therefore I’ve never done it. LOL.
Thank you for such a terrific website, newsletter, etc. I really appreciate how you share your knowledge.
Thanks!
Debbie Richey
My difficulty is choosing thread colors. Right now I am trying to choose thread colors for a quilt square that will be part of a large quilt for an anniversary gift.
Colours are good but use silver, not gold.
Hi Mary,
Long time reader, first time commenter! I am enthusiastic stitcher, who uses a lot of satin stitch. I’d like to go a bit more 3D with my projects but am rather intimidated by the process. I have even purchased some “shoes” to help, but find myself at a loss to decipher how they work! Can we have an article on simple 3d in embroidery and maybe how to use the shoes?
Thanks
Mallory
UK
My hugest issue is finding the right linen fabric for projects. I don’t live near a shop, so I’m always guessing about colors and counts. I LOVE when you offer just the right linen for your projects, and truly wish you would carry more, especially the very high counts. Even just more information about what to look for would be great!
I also can’t for the life of me figure out how to do those darned Palestrina knots!!! I’ve mastered the bullions, but not Palestrina!
Thanks so much for your wonderful site!
Megan
Hi Mary,
I have both a problem and a suggestion.
My problem first: My walls are full, I have ornaments and pillows aplenty, and friends and family are probably tired of getting more embroidery projects from me. What to do with my projects? Innovative ways to use them, or places to donate them that would appreciate and use them?
My suggestion: When I do sampler-type lines, like your Christmas stocking ornament or key-to-my-heart sachet, I have found it helpful to use masking tape to keep my lines straight. I use a ruler to mark the masking tape with even marks to make sure that I space stitches evenly. And for circles (flowers etc) I trace a penny or button onto masking tape and cut it out. It’s easily repositionable and leaves no marks.
And lastly, my thanks to you for this website. It has been a wonderful resource and I thoroughly enjoy reading your blog!
My struggle seems to be the transfer of patterns. I have a light box but that only “works” on thin fabrics. Thanks so much for your wonderful emails and website.
Hi Mary,
I have both a problem and a suggestion. First the problem: My walls are full, I have plenty of ornaments and pillows, and I think my friends and family are getting tired of receiving my embroidery projects. Innovative ideas or places where I could donate projects that would appreciate and use them?
My suggestion: I have had trouble with sampler-type projects (Christmas ornaments, key-to-my-heart sachet etc) keeping the lines straight and the stitches evenly spaced. I’ve found that masking tape is a good solution. I use a ruler to make even marks on the tape. It’s repositionable and leaves no marks. I also use masking tape to help me make circles (flowers, stars, etc), tracing a penny or button on the tape, marking the location for petals or points, and cutting it out.
Mary, thank you for your website. I have learned so much from you!
I like all the colors except the third green.
Frustrations: I am active in my EGA Chapter which I consider a requirement of my membership. I try to participate in as many of the stitching programs as possible and to lead at least one program each year. I became one of your Patreon supporters because I wanted to become more comfortable with surface embroidery techniques and I try to keep up with your projects as well. I find I have too many projects going on at the same time which is causing me stress. I wonder how other stitchers manage their projects?
For me, the biggest issue is actually being able to do the work. I don’t have a lot of sit down time at home! Mostly when I do have that time it’s because I’m waiting somewhere else. I’ve been able to put together a portable kit for one project, using a big silicone bag, a covered rotating needle holder from Clover, and thread drops, but it doesn’t stay neat or organized. I could really do with more tips on how to plan and set up embroidery on the go.
I am embroidering a set of dish towels for a relative. The material was really ‘cheezy’ so I basted a lining of cotton (white) muslin to the back of design to work on. Now, my question is how do I treat the lining/backing after I have finished the set. Do I trim the backing close to the design and leave it; or do I machine stitch it (replacing the basting) for permanency against raveling etc.
My biggest problem is close vision. Eye surgeon made mistake and now I have no close vision. I’ve tried multiple solutions including a pair of craftoptics specs that were awesome 5 years ago but no longer adjust enuf for Mr to dohandwork. Any brilliant ideas. I’ve tried about 8 sure fire solutions that don’t help me see.
Donna, did you go back to CraftOptics with a new prescription? They can adjust the prescription on the glasses that came with the CraftOptics to help with changes in your eyesight, without having to purchase new CraftOptics.
Another option is to talk at length with your optometrist about what you want to be able to see. My optometrist had me take measurements over a period of time, to determine exactly my most comfortable working distance, and then he gave me a prescription for single-duty lenses – like personal prescription magnifiers that are a fixed distance for handwork and for computer work. My work glasses are full lens (not progressives or bifocals) that I take off and on when I’m working. It is kind of a pain in the neck to have to switch glasses, but it does make it much more comfortable to see well enough to stitch, and it works well for me for extended periods of stitching time. I highly recommend speaking at length with your optometrist to see if single-duty glasses would work for you, that you can use just for handwork.
I used to be very near sighted. I could take off my glasses and hold my work close, and that always gave me the best vision for stitching. I got used to working within 6-8″ of my fabric, and I adjusted my stands and so forth accordingly so that I didn’t have neck or back problems from bending close to the work. But I had to have cataract surgery and the new lenses that were implanted were not what I wanted. They allowed for a kind of combined mid-distance vision, with one eye’s focal distance being much closer than the other’s, and it really destroyed how I was used to stitching. I didn’t ask the right questions at the time of choosing the lenses, I guess. So I know where you’re coming from! So far, single-task glasses have been my best option. I did use Craft Optics for a while, but I had an ocular occlusion in the lower right quadrant of my left eye, leaving a large blind spot that doesn’t work with the “jeweler’s loupe” type of lens, so the Craft Optics just won’t work for me anymore.
You are an inspiration to a beginner like me. I wanted to share a world wide project called the Red Dress project shown recently. I saw the inspiration of women from around the world and their dedication to embroidery art. You remind me of these women.
Although I love to embroider, I am mainly a quilter. I like adding stitched words/poems/captions to my quilts but as yet (over 30 years) have not found an easy foolproof means of transferring from paper to fabric. Help and thanks.
Gracias Mary por tomarte el tiempo para quienes te seguimos y seguir aprendiendo de ti.
A mí me frustra que se me haga nudos el hilo y no pueda deshacerlo y tener que cortar.
Otra cosa que me cuesta trabajo, es escoger la paleta de colores. Siempre dudo.
Y por último y la más importante, dejar incompleto un trabajo, el no terminar lo que empiezo me hace enojar conmigo mucho. Quisiera saber cómo le haces, alguna técnica de hábitos cuando haces algún bordado.
Mil gracias por compartir tu experiencia y conocimiento.
Saludos desde Puebla, México.
Cecilia
Hi,
What tip do you have for someone with arthritis who finds pulling the needle through the fabric puts a lot of strain on the thumb joint? I have used the rubber grips, but they still apply pressure to the joint.
Should I be using a different needle? I know that the larger eye needles will create a bigger hole for the thread to pass through the cloth, thus eliminating some of the need to pull the needle as hard.
I hate to abandon embroidery and crewel work, but it does put a strain on my thumb joint.
Hello – I think you must have the most fabulous threads to choose from. Can you please do a little article and a pic of all your threads and how you store them? I started out as a child with embroidery. Over time, my thread stash has really ballooned. I inherited several of my great grandmothers embroidery boxes with thread, plus my grandmother’s, (my mom never was interested), and now I have mine that I’ve collected over the years. I finally typed out a list of all the threads that I have. Single spaced… In Excel, It is 3.5 pages long!!! I did this so I could easily sort each column by Brand, Color, Thread number, and number of Thread Skeins. Would you show us yours? Please.
Thank you,
Gayla – in Texas
I know you’ve covered needles before, but I currently find myself curious about which needles are best for what work in general. As an example, what is best for hand quilting? Also, I bought one of the Reticello kits from you and it was accompanied by a duller needle that I had no familiarity with. I quickly figured out how great it was for that project but hadn’t seen one like it before. I love when your blog covers information about the notions and even fabric types.
Want to know the colors in the photo. What an interesting pallet.
I have a cross-stitch kit and I have to find the center of the (unmarked) fabric, so I have to count the threads vertically and horizontally.
I’ve been putting it off because it’s so tedious.
I just finished the tape measure Stitch Snippet and so appreciated your clear instructions on finishing. Finishing items (e.g., if I were to take something I’d already stitched and wanted to finish it into a needle book, or a scissor envelope, etc.) really intimidates me because even knowing where to start with finding and selecting things like the template plastic you had us use in the Purple Posy project, for example, is such a mystery. I’d love you to do a long post–or series of posts–on how to select materials, where to find them, and how to think about using them to finish projects like that.
Lettering is my biggest nemesis. Recently my son in law asked for a project which included wording of a special significance to him. Ugh! I agreed but find any letter under an inch in size daunting. Should I use a finer thread, like maybe Flouch #16? Will that be easier?
Wish the color number on the labels were showing. This is a very nice pallet.
My problem, when embroidering, is piercing my thread tail on the back. Even though I try to be careful and hold the thread out of the way on the back, it seems I always pierce it (sometimes several times), so when I pull the needle to lengthen the thread, it stops because the tail (or working thread) has been pierced and it stops at the needle’s eye. I then have to carefully pull the tail and try to run the needle back through the pierced thread so I can lengthen my thread. Do you have any tips or solutions?
I love all the colors of metallic thread, lights thread that type of thing but when I try to use them they just fall apart or are completely unmanageable! I want to be able to use them in some projects, but I always end up putting them back in the bag from whence they came. I would love a video, or photo explanation or just some tips – whatever you have time for………and if this is a problem for anyone else.
I think this a great idea, especially for those of us who are still struggling with just about everything . Thanks much.
Carol
Hi, Carol – What brand of metallics do you use? I highly recommend Au Ver a Soie metallic threads and braids. They are much much much easier to stitch with than any other metallic on the market.
What drives me crazy is transferring a pattern, in particular getting a very fine line pattern on to silk cloth or a more textured cloth. I have tried several methods which were disappointing. I would like to try the pounce method but the idea of putting black carbon on silk is mind boggling. And is there a better way to secure the outline other than using watercolors? No, I do not plan to wash my finished silk embroidery, but I live in the Pacific Northwest and I wonder if the watercolor paints will bleed in our more humid environment.
Really liked the article about how yo choose a color scheme!!
This isn’t really a “problem” per se, but a situation where I’m looking for a better way. When ending the last thread in an isolated section of satin stitch (where there’s nowhere nearby to hide small anchor stitches), how do you secure your thread? The back of satin stitch is too loose to hold the end using the standard method of pulling the end through a few stitches. I always tease the long backs of the satin stitches apart and take a little “bite” out of the back of my work with my needle, then take a small backstitch over it again to secure it. I don’t love this method, though, because I’m afraid it strains the satin stitch when I part it like that, and, well, it’s just a bit of a pain! Is there a better way?
That’s how I do it, too, Emily. 🙂
I would love to see a tutorial for how to make sharp curves when embroidering letters. I have watched many videos but can’t quite see how to make my letter ends or middles look nice. They seem to either pull to one side or the other or make a giant wad of thread. W, K and M are tough (for me at least) well as where all the lines meet in the letter B or E.
Thank you! Love your website and tutorials. They are so incredibly helpful.
Mary after I responded previously about working with metallic thread, I had the thought to search your blog to see you had already addressed the issue (should have done that first, as you’ve usually written something about most everything).
Sur enough you had, and it seems the correct brand solves the issue. You can toss my suggestion and thanks for being so on top of it all!