Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Cutwork Pattern for Hand Embroidery

Last time I was playing with my whitework embroidery sampler, I was beginning the cutwork motif. Here, I've got the pattern for you AND the incredible progress I've made on the cutwork motif! How exciting!

Well, I already feel bad about saying that - not a fib; rather an exaggerated jest: I have made very little progress on the cutwork motif. Still, every little bit counts, right?

Here's the design for you, in case you ever want to use it for cutwork - or for any other kind of embroidery or craft usage, for that matter. You can click on it for a slightly larger image (and a larger file size!).

Free Cutwork Design for Hand Embroidery


And, if you want, here's a PDF version:

Cutwork Design for Hand Embroidery

You can size the pattern up or down if you want. If you size it up, it may take more time, but you could also work with heavier threads to cover more ground a little faster.

Here's my progress on the cutwork design so far:

Cutwork Embroidery on my Whitework Sampler


Oh. I know you're impressed!

Actually, I was debating whether or not I should put progress photos up at all - it practically seems pointless! But, still, there it is!

I transferred the design using the tissue-paper-and-tacking-stitches method, which has worked well so far with this design.

Cutwork Embroidery on my Whitework Sampler


There it is, up close. I was debating about whether or not I would go with fine bars. Sometimes, the attaching bars on cutwork are mere threads, you see... and that lends to a very delicate, lacy look - absolutely beautiful on fine white linen. But given that this fabric is a little coarser than normal (for most fine cutwork, that is), I decided to go with a heavier look on the bars and on the overcasting around the edges of the design.

I plan to get some photo tutorials up on cutwork eventually, once I make a little more progress on this piece.

Now, to step backwards a bit, remember the monogram I set up for the sampler? The plan on that seems to be taking a different direction in my head. Initially, I wanted to do some trailing (which is super-raised satin stitch, over a bunch of cords), but I'm thinking about another technique right now - something... something a bit odd. On the wide parts of the letter, what think you of a raised stem stitch? Or casalguidi? I was kind of thinking it might be fun to do something not-quite-as-typical-of-whitework, and with a bit of texture. Anyway, that idea's ripening right now. We'll see what it develops into... If I keep plugging away at the cutwork, it'll have plenty of time to ripen, that's certain!

Funny thing is, while I was working the bars in that tiny bit there, I had the sudden desire to finish up the Schwalm pomegranate right below the cutwork motif. If I had students bouncing around like this, I'd tell them to settle down, take a deep breath, and FOCUS! Physician, heal thyself!

I suppose the next time we come back to the whitework sampler, we'll all be surprised at what transpired!

Enjoy the pattern - hope you find it useful!

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Thursday, March 19, 2009

Cut it Out!

Last night, I was enthusiastically starting into the cutwork motif on my whitework sampler. I finished transferring the cutwork design and picking off all the paper and was super-eager to start stitching on it, just to see how it would go. So I started stitching, and to celebrate the occasion, I made a rather bumbling and obvious mistake!

Cutwork is a kind of whitework embroidery where the design is stitched along the edges, usually with little attached bars of sorts between different design elements, and then the background fabric in parts of the design is cut away. Here's an example from an old post on whitework, where I reviewed the A-Z of Whitework, Book One:

Cutwork in whitework embroidery


Here, you can see that the outline around the cutwork area and the bars between the outline's lines are all about the same size, and the cutwork looks kind of "squarish."

Cutwork in whitework embroidery


Here, it's slightly different - the "bars" are not as bar looking, but look more like long web-like strands.

In both examples above, the main elements of the design have been stitched around the edges with overcast stitch, which is simply satin stitch worked in a very narrow line all around the outline. The way it works is this: you have your design. You stitch a running stitch around the area to be cut out. Then, the first thing you stitch are the bars, by the passing the thread back and forth wherever you want the bars, and then either overcasting them or buttonholing them on the return journey. Then, you stitch the edges, either with overcast stitch or buttonhole stitch. I'll show you up-close how it's done... eventually!

Well, I was very enthusiastic to get started on my cutwork motif after getting the design down. Funny. After transferring the monogram, I was keen to start on it, to the detriment of finishing the drawn threadwork, which I was eager to start on to the detriment of finishing the Schwalm pomegranate. I can't keep doing this!

Whitework Embroidery Sampler: Cutwork


But can you blame me, really? Doesn't that just look fun?

This is the cutwork motif. I like it a LOT. I LOVE IT! If I can do it justice, I will really be thrilled with it. So far, I think it's my favorite bit on this sampler - but I know it's also going to be the most tedious bit!

When you realize how much I love the design, can you forgive me for jumping around so sporadically and inconsistently?!

Anyway, my plan with this particular design was to use a cord underneath the overcast stitch along the edges, to make those stitches stand up. I want a bit of "relief" on the design - some height and definition in the outlines. One of the reasons is because of the relative roughness of the fabric. Mostly, you see cutwork worked on high count, firmly woven linen. This is rather not the stuff of cutwork, but it'll still work...

Whitework Embroidery Sampler: Cutwork


For the "cord" that I'm stitching over, I'm using DMC Cebelia #10.

Whitework Embroidery Sampler: Cutwork


I began the overcasting with enthusiasm! For the overcast stitching, I'm using #30 coton a broder.

Whitework Embroidery Sampler: Cutwork


Stitching over the cord really lifts the stitches nicely. I like it so far.

Whitework Embroidery Sampler: Cutwork


The design has a kind of "double" outline around each cutwork area - that's one of the reasons I like the design so much. So, here I am, starting back on the double line... this line is the line that directly outlines the cut out area. Stitching along, stitching along... very happy. Liking the whole thing a lot... dum dee doo... having fun....

Suddenly realizing...

?

What?

I'm getting kind of tired of these head-slapping moments.

I complete forgot to the put the bars in. Ugh.

Yes, well, the monogram's looking pretty good! Maybe I'll stitch on that tonight. Who needs this cutwork stuff, anyway?!?!

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Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Musing about Lace Making ... and the Link that Got Me Going

Here's a neat resource for some needlelace, filet lace, and other lace patterns that can be adapted to different types of needlework....

BibliOdyssey recently posted photos from old Lace Modelbuchs (Pattern Books). You'll find some beautiful examples of needlelace patterns, as well as some grid patterns that can be used for filet lace or adapted into cross stitch or needlepoint patterns pretty easily. I like old books like the ones featured here. They're exquisite.

I think I've mentioned before that I'm not a lace maker, though I have delved into different types of needle lace, including filet lace (the real stuff, not the crochet), cutwork (can it properly be called lace? probably not), drawn thread work (again, would you call it lace? perhaps not, though it can sometimes look pretty lacy) and traditional needle lace for inserts to whitework projects and so forth.

Needlelace Sample


My picots stink in that piece. I've improved the technique somewhat since then. It takes some doing, working picots that size with a needle and tiny thread. I think in that piece I was working with size 100 linen thread.



I haven't worked much on my cutwork techniques. But someday, when I go back into whitework (I'm still glutting on color), I'll take it up again.

I like the idea of lace making - and golly, I'd love to learn how to make bobbin lace. Have you seen the bobbin lace at Plimoth Plantation that they're making for The Jacket? It's seriously stunning stuff!

I did sally forth into one bobbin lace venture many years ago. It was after visiting my sister in Washington, DC. We went to one of the Smithsonians (I think it was the National Museum of American History). There, I saw a fantastic example of embroidery - it was worked by sailors of yore, on old sails, with all kinds of fibers from their shirts and clothes and stuff. It was fantastic!

But what caught my eye and completely captivated me was the lady sitting across from the exhibit - an exhibit unto herself - with her lace pillow and some 180 (or some such number) bobbins that she was flipping about, flipping some more, her fingers flying hither and thither, with a twitch of the wrist and swift cross movement of her hands, shifting the bobbins until they looked like they were moving on their own accord across the pillow, inserting pins, and on and on ... all while chatting with people! And there, before her, a delightful pattern of airy lace was forming with practically no effort (so it seemed to me!). I was astounded, captivated - in short, really impressed. I just Had to Learn to Do That.

It so happened that there, or at another museum close by (somewhere along the journey), I was accosted by a beginner's bobbin lace making kit. It beckoned me, and I heeded its call! Ok, so the "pillow" was a kind of styrofoam board thing. But - I was game. I invested.

Yes, so anyway. As I said, I'm no lace maker. But gosh, don't you love the stuff?

I'd like to embroider on net - you know, the fine, sheer netting that bride's veils were made of back in the days before puffs of tulle? Not your typical tulle. No, no, no! The stuff that drapes and hangs beautifully and is ever-so-lovely as it falls about the shoulders limply. I have looked for such netting. I've bought samples from Lacis, from Martha Pullen, and from several other sources that advertise netting for veils. But it's always ... tulle. It's stiff, even after washing the sizing out. I don't want to make a tutu. I want to make a drapey, light, spilling veil! Alas, I haven't found the stuff yet. Or maybe I just don't know what to look for!

But I did buy a book. And some day, I'll find what I'm looking for. And then - look out, world! I will become a Maker of Lace!

Either that, or this will all go the way of the bobbin lace kit.... !

Enjoy the link to BibliOdyssey. He's got a bunch of other resources listed on there, too. If you ever become a maker of lace (or if you are a maker of lace) and come across that mysterious drapey netting, I'd love to hear about it!

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