Sunday, January 28, 2007

Embroidery Classes Online - Time to Sign Up!

If you want to explore the wide world of embroidery and develop your own library fo stitches, you should check out Sharon Boggon's online class "Developing a Personal Library of Stitches." The prices are super-duper reasonable (six classes for $60 - only $10 / class!) and from what I've heard from those who have signed up, it's worth every penny and then some. If you want details on what the classes cover, check out Sharon's site, inaminuteago. You can find a detailed explanation at the bottom of the post. If you're a beginning embroiderer and you really want to improve and expand, these classes look ideal. If you're not a beginner, I think you'd still get a lot of them. If you look at embroidery as a hobby or craft, this is a great investment that will give you a lifetime of pleasure. Check them out!

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Saturday, January 27, 2007

Embroidery and Textile Photos from Rome

I wanted to share with you some textile and embroidery photos from Rome. My sister and her husband just got back from a two-week holiday in celebration of my brother-in-law's retirement and their 20th anniversary. Knowing my fascination with textiles and embroidery, my sister managed to take a few shots of things she thought would interest me. I think the fabric shoes take the cake!!

First, here's a shot of some religious embroidery (there's a lot of this in Rome, of course!). It looks to me like it is a combination of embroidery and applique. At first, I thought the colors might not be "true," but she says they are - just faded with time. It's a wallhanging, banner, or altar frontal - she can't remember which. (You do tend to get saturated from the visual gluttony!)



The next is a close up on some goldwork and silk embroidery. Pretty!



Here are the shoes. They were in a shop window. I love the fabric, but I doubt they'd hold up to Midwest USA winters!



Below is another example of goldwork and silk. You can see the goldwork on the leaf on the left side of the photo, and on the far right. This type of silk embroidery is done over board or very stiff and dense felt-like wool to get the squared-off edges.



The rather long photo below is goldwork and silk again. I think the blue flower above must be taken from the same piece. The styles are exactly the same, and the fabric looks the same. Again, typical goldwork and silk combination. I think it's a photo of a mitre in a shop window. I love the simple design and the combination of colors.



This below is a velvet tapestry, or altar frontal, or something.... it's embroidered. It apparently hangs in a very long hallway going to the bathrooms in some museum or church. The piece is actually very large, and this is only the very end section of the photo. I like the design and the contrast on the red.



Below is another of the same, in the same hallway. This was apparently completely covered in embroidery. It's apparently rather old and not in the best of shape, but still really beautiful. The colors are really stunning. It's apparently a mixture of applique and embroidery, as you can see in the close up image further down.



And yet another of the same - a close up of a section of the photo above - taken from right below the piece.



Ahhhh - I love goldwork. Here's a sample of some goldwork, in a typical ecclesiastical design.



And, lastly, another piece of goldwork, probably on the same piece as the photo above - magnificent!



Much better than a postcard! Thanks, deary!

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Thursday, January 18, 2007

Book Review: New Release - Beginner's Guide to Goldwork

If you're a fan of goldwork and silk embroidery, or if it's something you've seen and wanted to try, but didn't know how to go about starting, then this is the book for you! Beginner's Guide to Goldwork by Ruth Chamberline (published by Search Press) is a magnificent book!

Published in December of 2006, Beginner's Guide to Goldwork is a practical guide not only for the newcomer, but also for the experienced embroiderer. Ruth's book is full of magnificent color photos of gorgeous goldwork projects - they are a real source of inspiration for any needleworker. But better than that, the step-by-step instructions are all illustrated. All kinds of goldwork techniques from simple couching to Or Nué, as well as embroidery techniques such as shading (in long and short stitch), as all worked out right before your eyes in great photo tutorials.

I've got quite a collection of goldwork books, and when I first saw that this one was coming out, I thought it would be "just another book" with the same stuff in it. But when it arrived in the mail, I couldn't put it down until I'd read through the whole book and examined every photo. It's possibly the clearest book on goldwork embroidery that I've seen.

It's hard to say what I like best about the book. I can really appreciate the instructions (including photos) on setting up a project, choosing threads, transferring the design, starting and ending threads - all those details that, when I first started stitching, I had no idea about, but which make a finished project so much more professional. All the details are here, mapped out perfectly for the beginner. But I think, overall, I like the author's direct approach and clear explanations. And, of course, the lavish photos, which are all close-up enough to see the details and get the gist of the techniques used.

If you're a fan of goldwork and silk embroidery - or of needlework in general - I think you'll like having this book in your library.

I ordered mine from Amazon (significantly cheaper than the $19 tag I saw on it through a retail shop), and although it said up to two weeks for delivery, it arrived in two days. Check it out!



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Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Embroidered Eyes: Animals

 
Here are a few more photos of embroidered eyes, this time on a few different animals. Some of these are "stylized" - that is, they are just representative of the particular animal's eye, without being a perfectly natural reproduction of it.

Still, you'll notice the care and detail that goes into a realistic-looking eye, even if it is a bit stylized. There isn't much difference in the techniques between these animals' eyes and the embroidered faces and eyes that I showed you earlier (here and here).



This is a pelican as typically used in religious motifs. The shot is taken at a bit of a distance. The way the threads pick up the light in this shot make the eye look rather glassy, which it isn't. It almost has a gold shine to it. Here's a close-up of the very same eye - note how important the glint is to achieving a realistic effect:



The next eye is from the same motif, only on a baby pelican:



Besides noticing the eye, it's interesting to note the amount of stitching in this bird's body. The bottom layer may be padding created with yarn - it's difficult to tell. In any case, it is padding (whether in bunches of yarn or a layer of stitching), as the bird stands out in relief from the background fabric. Over the padding, vertical long stitches are worked in a fine thread, which is then stitched over in long lines of split stitch, which are worked in the appropriate colors to provide shading.



This is the eye of an eagle, stylized, but the eye itself is rather impressive, considering the head of the eagle is only approximately an 1.5 inches high (from neck to crown). The variation in the color used in the iris - the light brown and dark brown, with two tiny stitches of white on the left side side - is delicate and detailed for something so small.



This last one is the eye of a lamb, whose head is in profile. It looks rather flat - there's no variation in color and no glint.

I have a feeling I'm the only one who finds these eyes so very interesting, but I hope that they come in handy for anyone doing any kind of figure embroidery, or even jacobean or crewel work, where animals are often part of the scene. One thing that I've learned from looking up close at this kind of work is to remember the glint!

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Monday, January 08, 2007

Crewel Work Kits

 
I love crewel work, and I think any beginner can learn crewel embroidery, especially if you start with a good kit. Crewel work teaches a whole variety of stitches, too, so it's a good way to expand your repertoire of stitches and also to fine tune some of the more difficult stitches and techniques, such as long-and-short stitch shading.

What is crewel work? Basically, it's embroidery in somewhat bold designs, usually on linen or linen twill, using wool threads. It's great for home accents, and is often seen worked on pillows and cushions, for wall hangings, etc.

If you're looking for some good crewel embroidery kits, here are a couple neat shops with good or interesting selections:

Twining Thread: they have a whole variety of crewel kits, which come with the prepared fabric, all the wools, and detailed instructions.

Accomplishments Shop: they have some gorgeous kits - somewhat pricey, but they would certainly work up into heirloom quality pieces. Check out the Crewel Work Company kits that they carry. They're stunning!

Now that the holiday rush is over and the New Year has begun, you might want to sink your fingers into a good project that will carry you through the rest of the winter. Why not try crewel work?

If you're looking for wools for crewel embroidery, by the way, you'll find the best deal at The Wooly Thread.

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Saturday, January 06, 2007

TAST Stitch Challenge: Herringbone in the Round

 
Well, I'm sorry to say I missed the round up for the Stitch Challenge, but here are my results of messing around with herringbone stitch. I've always seen herringbone worked mostly in lines. Sometimes, we get creative with it and wave it up a bit by changing the lengths of the "arms" ... but I figured it would be fun to see how herringbone works out in the round - that is, stitched in a circle.

Sticking with my resolutions, I dug for some fabric, and came up with the same old velveteen I've been working on all year. Eventually, I will get rid of this stuff! But I like red, so I wasn't too distraught. I didn't want to use linen or evenweave of any kind. After all, there's little point in evenweave when working around a circle!

Using a compass, I drew several concentric circles on tissue paper and marked off spots at even intervals around the circumference of each circle. I then transferred the dots to the fabric using a pencil. This would at least give me reference points for stitches. After all, drawing a circle free-hand is hard enough - stitching one? I'm pretty sure I couldn't do it!

Here's an overall view of my results with the whole stitching adventure. As you can see, I didn't do anything too wild and crazy with the stitch.



I began with the inside circle, and worked outwards. The interior circle is double herringbone stitch, worked in an overdyed stranded cotton. You can see how working in a circle slightly distorts the shape of the stitch, giving it a larger base on the inside diamond shape, with a narrower tip.



The second circle is herringbone stitch, woven and worked right next to each other in three colors. I wove the right side of the "V" of each stitch (the "up" thread) underneath the one stitched previously, to give an overlapping, folded look to the stitch.





The third circle is double herringbone, worked in #5 perle cotton (pink and blue). I stitched a straight stitch in green stranded cotton over the middle intersection of each double herringbone, and two lazy daisy stitches shooting out from the intersection. Then, for the fun of it, I stitched a single blue bead in the middle. Unfortunately, I didn't have the proper thread in my stash for securing beads, but I kept to my resolution and used only what was in my stash - color-matching as best as I could to a stranded floss, and using one strand to secure the beads.



The last circle is made of two rows of very wide herringbone stitches worked in blue stranded cotton, and then the double part of the herringbone was created using a green silk ribbon. After stitching the herringbone in ribbon, I added a French knot on each tip of the green ribbon. The knots are in an overdyed cotton, the size of #5 perle.



I always like to take shots of my work at or close to eye level, while it's still in the hoop or frame. I don't know - I just think it's kind of neat.

So there's my experiment with herringbone in the round. I'm looking forward to seeing what's up for the challenge this Tuesday, though if I keep missing the round up, I don't think I'll bother with the pressure of keeping up, since I've only got a short few hours on the weekends to work on this, and can't post until Sunday. We'll just have to wait and see!

If you want to check out all those included in this week's round up, check out the inaminuteago blog.

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Herringbone Stitch Revisited: Stitch Challenge

 
There are so many basic hand embroidery stitches out there! If you're interested in expanding your hand embroidery skill, here's an opportunity to do so. As mentioned before, Sharon Bogan of inaminuteago has proposed a weekly stitch challenge for 2007, and the first stitch on the plate is herringbone stitch. If you haven't had the opportunity to read about the TAST Challenge, you will find all the details here.

So the herringbone won out as the first stitch of the year. If you're not sure how to go about this stitch, you can check out the herringbone stitch video tutorial, as well as the double herringbone stitch tutorial. You'll see how simple the stitch is! Then, you might want to peruse Sharon's post for week one, which has plenty of photos for inspiration on working the herringbone stitch, with plenty of variations.

To keep up with the challenge, I'll be posting my attempts on Sundays. I wasn't able to touch any "casual" embroidery this week, until last night when I started foraging through the scrap bin for a piece of fabric. While I was foraging, I thought of a couple things that will help me make this stitch challenge managable:

  1. Work samples in a small space - I've decided to use a six inch hoop only. I realize that's kind of restrictive, but I think it will also be challenging to see what can be produced inside a limited space.


  2. Do only what can be worked in one evening, on the weekend, to post on Sunday. Again, restrictive, but I know if I want to keep up with work and my other embroidery, I must schedule time for all of it, and keep to a strict schedule, or everything will eventually fall apart!


  3. Keep the costs down: use stashed fabric and threads only. Otherwise, I'll extend beyond my budget, which will restrict me from doing other things I want to do or have to do.


So that's my approach - I like restrictions like this, because it makes the whole stitch challenge a kind of "disciplined routine," and it becomes a personal challenge to keep it that way.

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Thursday, January 04, 2007

Embroidered Eyes: Part II

 
The eye is the window to the soul, some poet said at some point, and embroidered eyes, I think, are a window to the soul of the artist - we see the artist's skill and creative genious in the creation of just the right expression, in thread, on the face of a person or animal. Here are a few more examples of embroidered eyes for you to examine.

These eyes are an element of needlepainting - that style of embroidery that achieves a painted look with the medium of thread.



In this particular set of eyes, you get a good view of how a gleam is created. The pupils, irises, and the whites are created with straight stitches, with the whites and pupils worked in the same vertical direction as the rest of the face. Note, however, that the iris is stitched around its curve, and the gleam is added with a lighter blue, stitched on top of the darker blue, following the curve of the iris as well. Notice that the shading under the eyes is achieved with alternating darker flesh tones (more like brown), and that the edge of the top lid and the top of the lid itself are set off with stem stitch. Notices where the shadows fall underneath the eyebrow - in towards the nose. This stitching is perhaps not as fine as some of the eyes in the previous article on embroidered eyes, but it is effective enough that from far away, the result is a smooth, painted effect.



The camera picked up the gleam on the top edges of the stitches, but here is another fine set of eyes. Notice the lighter blue in the iris, and the glints (in a couple tiny white stitches) on the left sides of both pupils, extending into the irises.



These eyes are mostly closed - looking down. You can get just a peek at the eyes underneath the lids. Unlike most of the other eyes here, these are bedecked with fine lashes created with long straight stitches. In context, on a face that's no more than 2 inches long, the eyelashes are a nice effect. The dark tips of the stitches are again a result of the photographing of the work. They are the points where the stitches split. There is very little shading done in this face - only a bit around the nose. Notice that the eyes are created solely with lines of stem stitch, with the slightest shading on the very edge of the lids.



The stitching here is much heavier than in some of the other figures, but again, in context and from a little distance, the stitches fade into each other and create just the right effect. In this sense, these last two images remind me of impressionist paintings. They look rather splotchy up close, but from a distance, the picture is smooth and clear.



And finally, these eyes are in the same style as the previous photo, yet they are open. The heavier looking stitches make the work seem as if it would look thick and bulky, but, on the contrary, from far away, the result is a perfect expression. Note the glint in the left eye, and the variety of colors used to provide the shading. These two last sets of eyes belong to faces that are approximately 2 inches long.

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Embroidered Eyes: Part I

 
Especially in historical works of embroidery, figures of people and animals were worked in needlepainting techniques, using either long and short stitch, split stitch, or a combination of stitching methods. To me, one of the most amazing aspects of figure embroidery is the eyes. Here, I've included some close-ups on eyes in works of embroidery. By studying them closely, you can get a good idea of how to achieve realistic eyes in your embroidery work - whether on embroidered people or animals.

The realism achieved by needle artists in figure embroidery is absolutely amazing! Skin tones, facial features and expressions, draped fabrics, backgrounds, greenery, etc., all unfold before the viewer in the same way that a great piece of painted art would. When we look closely at the stitching, we can appreciate the time, effort, and artistry in works of figure embroidery.

I always notice people's eyes, and it's no different when I look at an embroidered work. The artist uses the eyes primarily to get across facial expression - the eye itself, the glint, pupils, and shadows, and then the eye brow. In addition to the eyes in figure embroidery, the mouth also conveys the facial expression, but for now, we'll look at eyes.

I've got quite a collection of eyes to share with you, mostly of people, but some of animals. These are all taken from historical vestments which I have had the pleasure of being able to see, study, touch (in some cases), and photograph. So I'll be sharing them with you for your appreciation, and also as a learning tool. Sometimes, if we could just see up close "how they did that" we can learn to achieve similar results. If nothing else, we can at least be inspired and gain a greater appreciation for the art of embroidery.



Note the direction of the stitches: for the majority of the face, split long and short stitch is used, going vertically straight down the face. Around the eyes, though, we can notice some different stitches in different directions. Directly above the eye lid, for example, split stitch is worked surrounding the top and sides of the lid, in a slightly darker flesh tone, and above this line of split stitch, you can make out a series of straight stitches in the same color as the outline worked over the flesh tones, horizontal and pointing into the outline. The lid itself is shaded, light in the middle (above the pupil) and dark in the corners. At the edge of the lid, above the pupil, is a very fine, dark line of stem stitch. At the base of the eye, on the edge of the lower lid, a line of stem stitch is worked in a lighter brown, to imitate the ledge of the lower lid. The "bags" under the eye (for lack of a nicer term!) are split stitch in flesh tones, but notice their direction - while they are all vertical (like the rest of the face), in the corner of the right eye, a few straight stitches are worked out from the corner by the nose towards the top of the cheek. On the left eye, the same thing happens, but from the outside corner of the eye, in towards the top of the cheek. The eyes themselves, half closed, are satin stitched in white, grey, blue, and black. The pupils are black, the iris is blue, shot with a tiny stitch or two of white in the left eye (for a glint - to give it that realistic, shiny look), and the whites are worked in a couple stitches of white, shadowed by grey in the corners. The eyebrows are worked in longer stem stitch, in a darker brown. This entire serene face, in context, is no more than 3 inches high.



This is a little odd-looking, due to the camera picking up the gleam on the split stitches. Each of those spots of light is the point where one stitch splits the other. This eye is looking up - happy and brilliant. Note the direction of the stitches in the face - vertical - and the overstitching in stem stitch, to set in the details of the eye. Notice the white glint.



The anguish in this face - that of Christ crucified - is imparted by the shape of the brows. The death-like coloring (very dark around the eyes, pale elsewhere) is achieved through shading in split long and short stitch. Again, note the vertical direction in the stitching on the face, then the overstitching that establishes the shape of the eyes. The pupils are barely visible - dark straight stitches amidst lighter, in a horizontal direction under the lids of the eyes. Notice the bottom eyelids. They are achieved by a very delicate lighter line horizontally stitched under the eye.



This is a solemn, serious, and majestic eye. The directions of stitches in the face are vertical. The details of the eye are set in horizonally. The eyebrow is stitched, horizontally, in white in stem stitch. The most amazing feature of this eye is the shading. The eye is looking down, and the lid, half closed, shades the eye. The shading is achieved with colors of grey in the whites of the eye, and dark blue in the iris.



This face is approximately 2 - 2.5 inches high. Unlike the previous faces, this one is stitched in two layers: a layer of long stitches in flesh tones which provide most of the shading, stitched over with vertical lines made out of very long split stitches, which also provide shading of the flesh tones. The vertical lines are less than an eighth of an inch, spaced evenly across the face and neck. The irises are stitched in light blue and white, the pupils in black, and the edge of the lid in black stem stitch. The bottom of the eye is also edged in stem stitch, in a lighter flesh tone. The eyebrows match the hair and are stitched in stem stitch. Note that the sides and bottom of the face are set off by a line of stem stitch, in a ruddy color.

Amazing, aren't they?

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Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Italian Stitching: Silk & Gold

 
Silk and gold are perhaps the most luxurious and beautiful of hand embroidery mediums, especially when combined. I've set out on a commissioned work of ecclesiastical embroidery that will be worked entirely by hand, in silk and gold. I decided to experiment with what is called, in old books from the 1800's, the "Italian Stitch." Italian stitch is basically stitching in flat silks (that is, untwisted), and then couching over the stitching with tiny gold passing thread.

I wanted to do some test runs before I got underway on the serious work. So far, with this project, I've designed the emblem and chosen colors. I prefer to work with Soie Ovale by Au Ver a Soie, which is their flat, untwisted silk. However, Soie Ovale does not come in a large range of colors, and I can't quite get the shading I would like. In addition to this, it does tend to be rather expensive. I am convinced it's the best silk on the market, but .... I need subtle shading for this project, so I may go with Eterna Silks from Yodamo. If you're looking for Chinese silk, you can order it here, and get a pretty good deal on it.

Anyway, I ordered some stranded Eterna Silks to test whether or not I will like them. I've used them before - they are high luster silks, but they don't give the coverage that the Soie Ovale gives. I'll let you know which silks I go with as this project progresses.

Back to the Italian Stitch. Basically, you work long straight stitches (or satin stitches, or long-and-short stitches) in flat silk. Then, using the smallest possible gold passing thread, you couch the gold down over your silks. This helps hold the long stitches in place, it gives longevity to the silk (it won't get worn from rubbing), and, of course, the gold adds dimension and beauty to the whole piece.

As you lay the silk for this stitch, you might find you need to use a laying tool. The silk should be perfectly flat and untwisted. I wasn't using a laying tool here, and, with the Soie Ovale, I find I don't need to as often, but it's a good idea to have one handy. If you are trying this type of stitch and don't have a laying tool, you can use a large needle. Run the needle under the length of the thread that will remain on the surface as you pull the thread through and complete the stitch.

As I mucked around with it this afternoon, I took a couple photos of the concept, so you can see what I'm talking about.



I'm using 2% gold passing thread, size 4, which I ordered from Tanja Berlin. You might wonder why I ordered it from Canada - simply because I can't seem to find the 2% gold available in the States. (If anyone knows where it can be found, I'm all ears!) Tanja Berlin offers an excellent selection of gold, and the prices are not unreasonable. I prefer the "real gold" for ecclesiastical work, rather than gilt. 2% gold is the highest quantity of gold found in goldwork materials. If you're interested in how this stuff is made, check out the history of gold wire found on the Benton and Johnson website. It's pretty interesting!



For my project, the whole background of the piece will be worked in Italian Stitch. In the foreground will be the image of a lamb and banner, the Agnus Dei image often found in ecclesiastical symbols. You can find, for example, a typical image here. The lamb and the banner will stand out from the background, as the couched gold threads will only cover the background area. The lamb will be worked in "wool stitch" (a variation of French knots), with long-and-short stitch needlepainting for the banner, the legs of the lamb, and the face. The halo (or nimbus) around the head of the lamb will be worked in couched gold and red silk.

The Italian Stitch varies depending on how the embroiderer wants to use it. For example, the gold could be couched over the silk in swirls and curves, etc., or in lines. I will be couching straight lines, one eighth of an inch apart from each other, as shown in the samples here.



After laying each line of gold and couching it at the correct interval, I'll plunge the threads on the outside of the embroidery. Then I'll surround the entire design with a 1/2-inch border of gold couching.

So that's my latest "big project" which will probably occupy a lot of my stitching time. At the same time, I hope to be keeping up with Sharon Bogan's Take a Stitch Tuesday Challenge. If you haven't read about it, do! You might be interested in joining up and exploring some embroidery stitches.

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Monday, January 01, 2007

Wheat Stitch Video Tutorial

 
If you are a beginner at hand embroidery, one of the first stitches you will probably learn is the chain stitch. The chain stitch has many variations, and one of them is the wheat stitch. This stitch, illustrated below, is simple to work and produces a line that resembles a shaft of wheat. The stitch can be used in all kinds of applications - it would make great background greenery in flowers and gardens, it can also serve as a seam embellishment in crazy quilting, and it can serve as a simple decorative line. Of course, it can also work as individual stalks of wheat.

Below, you can see a tiny example of wheat stitch used in church embroidery, worked in one strand of YLI silk on linen. This example is rather small, but you can see how the wheat motif is simple to execute using the wheat stitch. If you vary the types and weights of your threads, you will achieve a different look.



Experiment with this stitch! It has a lot of potential as a useful stitch in any embroiderer's repetoire.

The video below is not filmed using my new contraption - rather, it's one I've had in the works for a while. Still, it came out "ok" - you'll get the gist of the stitch.

Have fun with it!



For more hand embroidery video tutorials, please visit the Video Library of Stitches Index.

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