Saturday, January 31, 2009

Give-Away: Helen Stevens Embroidered Gardens and Some Great Needlework Threads!

Here's this month's embroidery stash give-away! Last year (January of 2008), I began doing these monthly give-aways. I've tried to include in them fibers or embellishments (beads, buttons, charms, etc.) that would enhance your stash and perhaps give you something new to try in the realm of surface embroidery. I also tried to keep them varied enough each month to make them interesting (I may have failed a wee bit in that regard...)

Mostly, the items included in these little give-aways come from my own needlework stash or my own library. Sometimes, though, I include a neat little something I've picked up new that I thought would be a fun addition to the give-aways. And, in today's case, part of the give-away comes from someone else! A very generous reader wrote to me to say she had an extra copy of the book featured today and of one of Trish Burr's books. Would I like to have them? I could pass them on to someone else, if I wanted. And of course I said, "Yes, please!" (THANK YOU!)

Well, let me get on with it, then. This is this month's loot, up for grabs!

Hand Embroidery Items: Book by Helen Stevens and various fibers and embellishments


A nice little stack!

Hand Embroidery Items: Book by Helen Stevens and various fibers and embellishments


The book is Helen M. Stevens' Embroidered Gardens (this will take you to a more detailed description of the book at Amazon). It's a fantastic and beautiful hard bound book that's part of the Helen Stevens "Masterclass Series."

Hand Embroidery Items: Book by Helen Stevens and various fibers and embellishments


To go along with the book, some fibers and embellishments - and not just any fibers! Some really nice ones! Gloriana Ribbon, Baroque Silk, Charon Watercolors, Silk 'n Ivory, and a spool of TESS - the silk that Helen Stevens uses in her embroidery. Also, there's a little package of frosted glass Mill Hill beads, and a little heart charm.

Just think, all of this wonderful stuff could be yours! Just leave a comment below, answering the following question:

Do you have a needlework project that you pine over, that you don't have anymore, for whatever reason (you gave it away, it got lost in a move, it got damaged, etc.)? And if so, what was the project and why do you wish you still had it?

You can thank Laura Bullinger for that question! I pulled it off the comments on the August stash give-away, where I asked people to submit questions that I could use for stash contests.

Make certain you leave a name with your comment! If you post "anonymously," sign the comment with a name.

NOTE: Please leave your comment on this post on the website. You need to be actually on the website, not in the e-mail newsletter. Below, you will see a link that says "Click to comment." It's right under the text of this article, under the "Posted by Mary Corbet" line. Click on that link, and you'll be able to leave a comment.

The contest ends Wednesday, February 4th, at 5:00 am CST. I'll post the winner on Wednesday, and the winner will need to contact me with a shipping address. The contest is open to anyone, anywhere.

Good luck!

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Friday, January 30, 2009

January Embroidery Stash Give Away?? I almost forgot...

I can't believe it's almost the end of January! and we're about 1/12th of the way through 2009! Before the month officially ends, I wanted to let you know that I am still doing the stash give-aways this year. Last year, they were fairly successful! I think the people who won enjoyed receiving their packages, and I think (?) that everyone enjoyed at least having the opportunity to win some threads, needlework books, embellishments, and so forth!

Tomorrow, I'll announce the January give-away. (Sorry - seems cheap to title the post that and then not announce it now...) But I wanted to let you know before the weekend, so that you are sure to check back.

The stash contest will include a beautiful embroidery book from one of the UK's top designers, as well as some nice threads, and whatever else I can gather together this evening that will make a good, interesting, and coherent package. After all, we may as well kick off the new year with a good one!

For those of you new to Needle'nThread lately, do check out my past embroidery stash contests, so you can see what kind of stash items I give away each month. I've also given away several nice embroidery books over the past year.

Don't forget to take the opportunity to check back in over the weekend to see what I'll be giving away to a lucky winner!

Have a great weekend!

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Or Nue: Goldwork in Color

Today's particular topic tends to put me into the state of Embroidery Frenzy. I always feel as if I'm singing the same song to all of you dear, patient readers! "I want to do this! ... I'm going to start that soon .... I need to start this project, that project, do this, do that!!!! To much to do, not enough time!" I'm sure, to an extent, every fanatic needleworker is in the same boat. There are so many projects I want to do - so many little tips and techniques I'd like to show you - but, regretably, so little time.

Here's one technique that I'd really love to dabble and experiment with, and convince others to try their hands at. It's called Or Nué - it's a goldwork technique involving couching gold threads with colored threads to produce a painted-like picture with a gleaming gold foundation.

This particular example of embroidery over gold threads comes again from Margaret Cobleigh, who faithfully sends me pictures of her projects so that I can drool and grumble and glow green with envy! Truthfully and seriously, she's a great source of inspiration for me and has become a great correspondent on all things embroidery-related! And, on top of it, she generously provides me with pictures of her projects for Needle'nThread, so I can pass on some neat stuff to you!

Last year, Margaret participated in a workshop that had as one of its projects this little Or Nué flower. It's a small piece, only 1.5 inches square, but it took many hours of what I think was probably rather meticulous stitching to complete it.

Or Nue Goldwork Piece stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


This is the work in progress. You can click on that photo for a larger version, so you can see it a little better. The gold thread is the same size as Japanese gold #8, and for this project, she used imitation gold. The threads used are DMC stranded cotton which have been waxed. The gold thread is wound on a wooden spool (called a koma, used in Japanese embroidery), and all the threads you see are the different colors that are used to couch the gold. You have to have the threads all working in the project at the same time, so that you can switch from one color of couching thread to the other.

The technique works this way: on the ground fabric is painted the design to be embroidered. Over that, the gold is couched. In the places the gold does not pass over the design, it is couched with gold-colored couching thread. Wherever the gold passes over the design, it is couched with colored floss. When couching with the colored floss, care is taken to space the couching stitches in such a way that the gold is not completely covered, so that it does, here and there, shine through.

Shading can be achieved in Or Nué a couple ways: you can use darker and lighter shades of color to couch the gold, or you can also vary the distance between your couching stitches. In the latter technique, to achieve a darker shading of color, your couching stitches would be closer together (often touching and covering up the gold completely). As the design moves to a lighter shade, the couching stitches move farther apart, and the thread may even be changed to a lighter color.

In this design, the shading is achieved by the color of the floss. In its finished state (below), the colors are somewhat muted. I don't know for sure, as I haven't seen the piece in person, but I think that the muted colors can be attributed to a few things: the nature of the technique, with the spacing here and there between the stitches; the fact that, next to the gold, the thread is bound to look a little muted; and, finally, the waxing of the thread probably dulls it down a little bit, too.

Or Nue Goldwork Piece stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


I think this is a beautiful little project, and beautifully stitched!

I was trying to think of a way for beginners to try Or Nué without spending a lot on real gold threads, and without having to paint a canvas. The thought occurred to me that a small, simple flower printed on fabric (you can buy sheets of fabric that pass through a bubble jet printer) would suit for a foundation to try the technique on. Then, instead of real metal threads, you could invest in one of the less expensive metallic cords put out by companies like Kreinik, and use DMC for your colored couching threads. If you're eager to see how the technique works, this would be a relatively inexpensive and accessible way to try it out!

I couple tips to keep in mind, if you do decide to pursue a testing project: gold passing thread (which is what the gold is here) is normally couched in pairs. That's how Margaret did it here. I've seen Or Nué worked over one passing thread at a time, which would allow the stitcher to achieve meticulous detail. When couching the colored threads, often the build-up of thread between the gold causes the piece to bulge as it fills out. Some books recommend a hair of a space between the gold threads - not enough to show a lot of fabric or anything. But just enough to make the colored couching threads fit comfortably. Playing with the technique a bit will give the stitcher a sense of the right spacing between the gold to avoid bulging.

Finally, if you've been hanging around Needle'nThread a while, you probably recall that I've written about this whole subject before. I've got one article in particular on Or Nué with good links and resources in it, if you're interested in reading up any further on the subject.

Well, once again, I shall leave you as I moan the same old song....

All I need is Time. Doo da doo da doo. All I need is time, time. Time is all I need....

Or maybe it's that other song...

Oh give me time, lots of time, with my Ott light up above.
Please fence me in!
Let me spend every minute on the stitching that I love.
Please fence me in!
Let me be by myself in the evenings, please!
In linen, and gold and silk threads up to my knees!
Send me off forever so I can stitch at ease...
Please fence me in!


It's really amazing to me that I'm about to hit the "publish" button and make such an utter fool of myself......... Seriously, though. I suppose we do what we can, when we can. Thank goodness for weekends!

Have a Happy Friday! May you find plenty of time on the weekend to enjoy some stitching!

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Thursday, January 29, 2009

Free Hand Embroidery Design: Motif Suitable for Goldwork

 
Here's another free hand embroidery pattern - a motif suitable for goldwork or any kind of surface embroidery, really. I've been having fun playing with repeat patterns in Inkscape, and this is one of the ones I was fiddling with, so I thought I'd share it with you.

This design is originally from an old church embroidery book that's now in the free domain. The book is called Church Vestments by Anastasia Dolby, and it's available on Google books. She's the same one who wrote Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern, where I found this embroidery design and cleaned it up.

This little design in the book is actually a black and white line drawing that's rather small. I took a screen shot of it and exported it into Inkscape, where I enlarged it then traced it. The original was really unsymmetrical, with each swashy leaf area being completely different from the other - fat arms on the scollies, skinny arms on the scrollies, etc. So I tried evening it up a bit, just in one quarter, and then I repeated the quarter, mirroring it around the image. I like Inkscape!

Here's the embroidery design. You can click on it for a larger image.

Free Hand Embroidery Design suitable for goldwrk or any surface embroidery technique


And here's a link to the same design in PDF format:

Hand Embroidery Design suitable for goldwork or other surface embroidery

Now, to speak of the design itself, I'd really like to work this one. Do you have so many ideas rattling around in your head, but absolutely no time to execute them? That's the situation I'm in right now! Anyway, I'd love to do the arms of the design in gold passing thread. The rest of it, I haven't really thought about...

I hope you like the design as much as I do!

Enjoy!

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Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Drawn Thread Embroidery: Another Way to Secure the Edge

 
Last week, I showed you how to re-weave the threads withdrawn from the fabric in order to produce a "clean" edge for drawn thread embroidery techniques. Here's a little easier way to finish the edge of a drawn thread area.

This is perhaps the most commonly used technique for making an edge around a drawn thread area or an area of cutwork in embroidery. At the edge of the area where you want to withdraw threads, satin stitch over three or four threads to block the threads from being able to unravel from the fabric.

Finishing the Edge in Drawn Thread Embroidery


For the satin stitching, you want to use a thread that covers well. If the thread's too thin, the fabric will show between the stitching and the edge will look really ratty. If it's too thick, it'll end up distorting the fabric. Here, I'm using a #12 perle cotton in 32 count linen. It worked ok.

Finishing the Edge in Drawn Thread Embroidery


Your satin stitches should be worked one stitch beyond the withdrawn threads. In the photo above, the arrows point to the hole after the last thread along with the withdrawn area.

Finishing the Edge in Drawn Thread Embroidery


If you're withdrawing horizontal threads, your satin stitch blocker will be vertical. If you're withdrawing vertical threads, your satin stitch blocker with be horizontal. If you're withdrawing both horizontal and vertical threads, you work the satin stitches on a corner, as shown above.

Finishing the Edge in Drawn Thread Embroidery


Once you have your blockers stitched, you cut the threads heading into the blocker, right next to it, using a pair of fine, sharp scissors. You can cut the threads at the opposite blocker and withdraw straight across the strip, but I prefer to cut in the middle of the strip as well, to shorten the threads that will be withdrawn. It's just easier to withdraw shorter pieces of thread!

Finishing the Edge in Drawn Thread Embroidery


In fact, if the threads are short enough and loose enough in the fabric, you can simply grab each thread individually with a pair of needlework tweezers and pull it straight out of the fabric without having to pry the thread at each weave. It makes a nice zipping sound, and, in a wink of an eye, it's done!

The little fuzzy ends of the cut thread that are sticking out can be "wiggled" into the satin stitch area by running your needle under the satin stitching and moving it back and forth. I kind of "roll" the stitches towards the edge, and that helps pull the little cut edges in.

The advantages to satin stitching the edges like this are several:

1. Golly, it's easy compared to re-weaving the threads! It takes a lot less time.

2. There's something decorative about it.

3. The satin stitch blockers provide a great place to run your threads under for anchoring.

Now you've learned two ways to finish the edges for drawn thread work - re-weaving the drawn threads or using satin stitch blockers. Either way works. Which one you use depends, I suppose, on the look you want.

Enjoy!

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Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Celtic G

 
It's been a while since I've posted a monogram pattern for hand embroidery! One of these days, I really do plan to end this alphabet! In the meantime, here's the G.

To speed up the process of cleaning up this set of letters, I've not put the little shading dots in. You'll see where they fit if you check out the first monogram in this alphabet - the A. You'll also find some ideas there for stitches to use.

Here's the small version:

Free Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Celtic G


And here's a larger version:

Free Monogram for Hand Embroidery: Celtic G


For other patterns that can be used for hand embroidery, please check out my index of hand embroidery patterns, and, for more monograms, you can check out my index of monograms for hand embroidery. Enjoy!


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Monday, January 26, 2009

Securing Re-woven Threads in Drawn Thread Embroidery

 
The other day, after posting a little tutorial on withdrawing and re-weaving threads in preparation for some drawn thread embroidery, several readers asked how to secure the withdrawn and re-woven threads on the back of the drawn thread work. Instead of writing a separate tutorial on securing the threads, I've edited the first tutorial and included a few pictures and instructions on securing the threads on the back of the work. I figured it was better to keep the whole tutorial together in one spot!

So if you want to see my method of securing the withdrawn and rewoven threads, please visit the original tutorial.

Thanks for asking the question - sorry I didn't clarify that step! (Now I know - you really DO read my posts!!)

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Sunday, January 25, 2009

CQMag Online - Volume 8, Issue 1 Available Now

 
Just a quick note to let you know that Volume 8, Issue 1 of CQMag Online is out now - it's got a huge line up of really good articles! Among them, yep, you'll find the (really insanely long) article I wrote on goldwork and crazy quilting. If you're not up to reading the whole thing, you can scroll down to the last photo for the complete block. Click on it for a larger version....

Enjoy!

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Reader's Embroidery: Goldwork Pansy

 
You know I like goldwork and silk shading - they're possibly my favorite embroidery techniques - but ... wow... this piece makes everything I've done with goldwork look rather dull. It's like the sparkling city cousin that the country mouse can't hold a candle to! This bright splash of color and gold was an exercise in creative goldwork from a Royal School of Needlework course that Margaret took back in 2007.

The project is worked on a background of silk dupoini woven in purple and red. Predominantly, the purple shows up, but you can see the reddish highlights in the photo. It's a gorgeous fabric!

Goldwork and silk shading pansy from Royal School of Needlework course, stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


I think the whole piece is beautiful, but the part of the piece that intrigues me the most is the bold leaf on the lower left, which is made out of gold kid leather. Rather than try to explain it myself, here's Margaret's description of the technique:
What was interesting was that we had a basic outline for the leaf and a piece of leather that was larger than the outline (at least at the top). Starting at the bottom we tacked down the leather to hold it in place. Then at the top we manipulated the oversized piece to fit within the design lines. This let us create the veins. So, everyone's leaf was different, of course.

I love the leaf, with it's bulging gold veins - and my hat's off to anyone who would stitch it and not scream before it was over! Yeeeeesh. I don't particluarly like stitching kid leather, but I'd like it even less if I had to manipulate it and squeeze it into an area! I think it turned out so pretty, though, that it's sort of tempting to want to try something similar.

Here's the finished project, framed up:

Goldwork and silk shading pansy from Royal School of Needlework course, stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


Isn't it gorgeous?

Thanks, Margaret, for sending the photos! Margaret, by the way, is the one who designed the Golden Pomegranate project I stitched last fall.

When Margaret sent me these photos, I came to the realization of something that I find rather funny, and I'd love to hear what others have to say about the same subject! It went like this: Margaret sent me photos of her frame jobs on three gorgeous pieces of embroidery: the Golden Pomegranate (hers is matted in greens, with a gold frame), her goldwork rose, and this goldwork project featured here. When I saw the three framed, I thought, "WOW - wouldn't those make a gorgeous set to hang together on a wall??!" And that's when I realized something...

And this is what I realized: in my house, I have one tiny bird I embroidered that's framed and hung. Other than that, I don't have one finished thing that I've embroidered. Everything else I've done has been given away, or was made at the request of someone else.

Ok, wait - with the exception of my silly pillowcases and my goofy felt needlebook thingy. And, no, I don't use the pillow cases myself.

My question is this: do you retain your work, or give it away? Are you fortunate enough to have nice embroidered things around your house? I just realized how nice that would be.

But how does one remedy that? I can't exactly go snatching up the things I've given away. And I wouldn't, anyway. Deep down, I wouldn't want to. (Or wait - maybe deep down, I do want to....!)

I was thinking that a resolution of some sort could help solve this: each year, I could make at least one nice project for the house. It doesn't have to be a big project or a major deal - just one nice something to be finished and framed.

Well, now that I'm thinking along those lines, I suddenly want to make another pomegranate or grab a silk shading project and ditch the whitework sampler!

Yeah. Thanks a lot, Margaret! ;-)

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Saturday, January 24, 2009

Drawn Thread: Tutorial on Reweaving the Edges

 
Drawn thread embroidery involves removing threads from the ground fabric (drawing them out - hence the name) and stitching around the remaining threads in an endless variety of decorative ways to create a kind of lace-like effect. Drawn thread is not necessarily categorized as soley whitework, but it is typically seen in whitework, and many types of whitework involve drawn thread techniques. I started my whitework sampler very simply, then, by drawing out threads...

A little information on this whitework sampler: it isn't a "planned" sampler. I have some ideas in my head concerning where I want to go with it, but there's no grid or design I'm going by. My point is to work out various whitework techniques and photograph them along the way. Different types of whitework techniques may seem rather daunting, but I want to wipe away that idea and hopefully pique people's interest in trying out new embroidery techniques.

For the sampler, I'm using a 32-count Belfast linen in a natural color, cut 18" x 20", and mounted on an Evertite stretcher bar frame.

Concerning the count of the linen, for newbies to certain techniques, it might be best to start with a lower count, such as 28 or even lower. For most of these techniques, Aida fabric (commonly used for counted cross stitch) is not really a choice. Linen is the fabric of choice for most whitework, though there are some decent linen blends or cotton that can also be used.

For threads, I have a line-up of quite a variety of white threads in various types and sizes: coton a broder, perle cotton, cordonnet, cebelia, floche, some silk (soie 100/3, soie perlee, soie gobelin, soie d'alger), Mountmellick threads, and regular stranded white DMC cotton... and I've probably forgotten some. Seems like a mish-mashy sort of mix, and it is! You don't need this variety to undertake any of these techniques! Some perle cotton #8 and #12, along with white floss, will serve fine for starters.

For tools, I've got my tiny Dovo scissors (they're 3.5 inches, by the way, for those of you who asked), tweezers, a tiny crochet hook (#12 - I find this handy when withdrawing threads), a needle threader, and several sizes of tapestry needles.

Drawn Thread Work - Reweaving the Edge


The first step in this sampler is to work with some drawn thread techniques, so I began by withdrawing some threads and re-weaving the withdrawn threads back into the fabric so that I would have a clean edge. This process is a bit more complicated than other ways of finishing the edge of drawn thread work, but I figured I'd at least do it once to show you.

To make the whole drawn thread process easier, think ahead. To keep it simple, I started with an even number of vertical threads to work over, since I'll be bunching my threads either in groups of two or four. So I wanted my first drawn thread strip to be over an even number of vertical threads divisible by 4. I picked 80.

I basted in blue around a strip on my fabric that was 80 threads wide and 8 threads high - or 2.5 inches long and a quarter inch high.

Basting should never be underestimated in drawn thread work - it can save you from accidentally cutting threads that will take you ten forevers to repair. So do baste!

Once my first strip was basted, I starting cutting and drawing out threads. Here we go:

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


You can see where I basted off my strip for withdrawing the threads.

First, snip the top two horizontal threads inside your drawn thread area, at about the half-way point in the strip. I'm going to re-weave the second thread into the holes left by the first beyond the edge of the basting, so it's easiest to work with a pair of threads at a time, rather than to cut all the horizontal threads at once.

Second, withdraw your first thread to about an inch past your basting line.

Third, withdraw the second thread up to the basting line.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


To withdraw the threads, you snip the horizontal threads at the halfway point in the strip or area you're withdrawing from. Then, using a tapestry needle (they have a blunt tip), run it under the thread you're withdrawing and pull the thread out of the weave. Try to be careful with the threads - you don't want to fray them up too much - but keep in mind that they will soften as you take them out of the weave.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


Here you have the first two threads withdrawn to the place they should be. Now, to re-weave...

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


Take your tapestry needle and weave it in and out of the spaces where the first thread was withdrawn. Make sure you are following the same path the first thread took, alternating up and down over the threads. Once you have the tapestry needle worked into the fabric correctly, use a needle threader to pull the second withdrawn thread into the eye of the tapestry needle.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


Now pull the tapestry needle through, so that the second thread fills up the empty path of the first withdrawn thread.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


Thread the first withdrawn thread into your tapestry needle, then take it to the back so that the weave matches.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


Continue working with the threads, two at a time, in this manner until all the drawn threads are rewoven and sunk to the back.

Then... move over to the other side of your drawn thread area, and do the same thing there!

Securing and Finishing Rewoven Threads



Methods of re-weaving drawn threads vary from book to book. For example, in the old Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework (I have the 1979 edition that I picked up at a used book sale many years ago, and I love it!), they show every thread rewoven (not every other thread as I showed you above). This creates a rather crammed, tight look on the edge of the drawn thread area. I prefer re-weaving every other thread because of this. In Beginner's Guide to Drawn Thread Embroidery by Patricia Bage, the author demonstrates the every-other-thread method. But in neither book do they go into detail about how to secure your threads after re-weaving. They basically just say "trim the threads on the back."

Well, I do secure my threads, in a way, before trimming them on the back. This is what I do.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


To demonstrate here, I picked the first thread back out again (kind of messy!). You can see the first thread in the photo above (I have a magnet holding it back for photo purposes) and you can see where the second thread (already rewoven) ends. There's a little gap there, with a vertical thread still in place. The first drawn thread needs to pass over that vertical thread, then back down into the fabric, for it to look finished.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


Take your tapestry needle, and, working from left to right (from the first thread towards the second re-woven thread) weave the needle over the one vertical thread that's showing, under the next vertical thread, and then over the next thread (now you're working into the end of the second withdrawn thread) and to the back of the fabric. You will have one intersection of fabric threads that has two horizontal threads in it, but it won't be noticeable.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


This isn't the best photo in the world, I suppose, but the arrow points to the finished area for this thread. It's very fuzzy because I over-worked the first withdrawn thread in order to get the photos! But notice in the red circled area below the arrow. This is where the other threads were rewoven, and it looks fine.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


The photo above is of the back of the work. Turn your work over, and you will find a long, hairy mass of thread on the back of your fabric where all the threads have been sunk. Trim them.

.... And that's how you secure and finish the threads on the back.

Drawn Thread Embroidery on Whitework Sampler


There's the strip with only the vertical threads remaining. It doesn't look too impressive, does it? But if you patiently worked that far, you did a good job! The sides are a bit fuzzy from working with the withdrawn threads, but that cleans up significantly once the stitching is started.

Withdrawing and re-weaving threads in this manner to get ready for the fun part (decorative stitching and bunching of the remaining threads) is, admittedly, somewhat tedious. But it is the only way to provide a finished fabric edge on your drawn thread work. I'll show you other ways of securing the edges later, but they involve a patch of stitching on the edge, whereas this technique gives you a clean edge that matches the rest of the fabric.

So, after the first venture in drawing out threads and getting into this project, I've noticed a couple things: 1. Natural colored linen - it's a bit darker than a golden wheaty color - doesn't photograph well, either. I should have picked something darker, like the oatmeal color of my monogrammed towels; 2. an 18 x 20 piece of linen might be a bit too adventurous, if I'm really planning on filling the whole thing up....!

Actually, I'm having fun so far - I've managed to stitch a few areas of drawn thread work, which I'll share with you (along with how-to's) in upcoming days!

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Friday, January 23, 2009

Goldwork & Silk Project: Golden Pomegranate

 
Now that Inspirations Magazine issue 61 is officially out, I wanted to share with you the finish on this goldwork and silk embroidery project that I showed you last October.

Before the photos, the background information: this project was designed by Margaret Cobleigh, who used it as a guild project to teach some silk shading and goldwork embroidery techniques. After preparing the kits for her guild, she had a couple left over, and I am ever-so-grateful that I had the opportunity to procure one!

Margaret also submitted the project to Inspirations Magazine. It's being published in issue #61, which is just out now. You can see a preview of Inspirations 61 on the Country Bumpkin website right now, and you can also see that the kit for The Golden Pomegranate is available for sale. (US readers, if you look at the kit, make sure to change the currency options to US dollars - it makes quite a bit of difference!) If you don't subscribe you Inspirations magazine, you can buy an individual copy of this issue if you want (through Country Bumpkin, and probably through some US suppliers, like Wooly Thread, for instance). If you already subscribe to Inspirations, then you know that you'll receive the complete instructions, photos, and the pattern within the magazine. If you decide to buy the kit and you don't have this issue of the magazine, you'll also need to buy the issue in order to have the instructions.

So that's how that works.

I was first attracted to the pomegranate design when Margaret sent me a photo to show me what she had designed, with the understanding that I couldn't publish the photo, as she was submitting the project to Country Bumpkin. Well, I was besotted! I love everything about this design - I love the colors (the reds are fantastic, and the greens are perfect), I love the goldwork, I love the way the goldwork is arranged and the variety of goldwork techniques, I love (LOVE) the trellis center on the pomegranate, with the beads and spangles... well. Like I said, when I first saw the photo of the project, I was besotted.

Another point that I liked about it - it's not a huge project. It's small (about 6" x 6", I think), so it's manageable in a reasonable amount of time. Margaret's instructions are crystal clear and perfect for someone who wants to try goldwork for the first time. The project is interesting and varied enough for seasoned goldworkers, too.

Anyway, I was happy to get one of Margaret's "leftover" kits... and I started to work on the pomegranate pretty quickly. All told, it didn't take 3 weeks (maximum) to complete it. Keep in mind, that's stitching in the evenings and a bit on weekends - I have a full time job and a life, so I wasn't stitching day in and day out! It was a nice, pleasurable, non-pressured stitching situation.

I had decided before I embarked on the project that I would make it as a gift for my niece, who was married in the middle of November. The pomegranate has been a symbol for ages upon ages of new life - so I thought it an appropriate gift.

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


I like angle shots - this isn't perhaps the best angle shot, but one of my favorite elements of the design is the pomegranate "crown" filled with chip work.

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


Here's the pomegranate itself. I love the fact that the stitching is shaded with the understanding of a light source from the top left. Notice how the pomegranate, on the top left, is lighter, and on the bottom right side, the top edge is also lighter? The top left leaf is couched in a lighter green as well. Nice, isn't it?

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


The trellis interior is really my favorite part. I love the pomegranate seeds (beads), and I'm a sucker for trellis couching. I think it's a beautiful interpretation.

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


The only part that I had real difficulty with was the vein on the leaves. I didn't remember until after I couched the pearl purl on that it was supposed to be wavy. So I pinched it into a little wave, but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the leaves on the prototype in the magazine!

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


Finally, here's the frame job. I had it framed in a custom frame, with all archival materials... the frame is slightly over 11 inches square. It's black with a gold crackle (in tiny veins) working through it, but that doesn't show up so well in the photo. It's triple matted, in green, then gold, then a velvet red mat. The triple matting holds the glass well away from the raised gold and the beads.

I was so happy with the way the project turned out that I was loathe to part with it! Apparently the bride loved it, though, so I'm glad did!

And thus ends the story of The Golden Pomegranate.

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Thursday, January 22, 2009

Free Blackwork Pattern for My Whitework Sampler

 
I've been dabbling around with ideas for my whitework embroidery sampler. Bouncing around in my head for a few days was this rather oxymoronic idea of doing some blackwork whitework.

I just couldn't chase away this idea, and it probably isn't all that original. But this is it: I like the look of blackwork. I love whitework. I was thinking that a band of blackwork (the counted kind) done in white would actually be pretty. You'd think you wouldn't be able to see it, but on the contrary, if it were worked on a very fine linen with a somewhat heavy white thread, the white on white would probably look subtly lace-ish, in a way.

In the long-run, the whole question of whether or not it would work on white became rather moot. I'm working the sampler on natural colored linen, which means I won't be doing whatever type of whitework pops into my head. I'll be limiting it those appropriate to natural colored, even-weave linen. Well - who knows what else may develop?

In the meantime, this is the blackwork whitework pattern I drummed up:

Free Blackwork Embroidery Pattern


That's it without the graph behind it....

Free Blackwork Embroidery Pattern


Here it is, with the grid, if you want to print it as a .gif. I don't know how it will turn out, actually - I don't have a printer to test it on right now!

You can take the design and move the individual motifs around, or eliminate the top row, or whatever you want. I'll be duplicating the motifs into a longer row on my sampler.

Free Blackwork Embroidery Pattern


You can even take each motif and move them closer together.

And, finally, I saved it as a PDF as well, so that you can print a much cleaner copy than the one provided with the .gif file, if you want. When you print the PDF version, you can rotate the piece, shrink it to fit, or print the present view (if you've enlarged it on your screen)... Again, I haven't printed it, so I'm not sure quite how it looks in print, but still... here's the PDF file:

Blackwork Embroidery Design #1 (PDF file - you'll need Adobe Acrobat to read it.)

I'm going to be working this in Holbein stitch, which looks like backstitch from the front, but is actually running stitch worked back on itself. I'll be using a #40 white coton a broder, I think, on an even-weave, natural colored linen (it's either 32 or 36 count linen - I'll let you know when I start playing with the fabric). I may decide on a different thread. I'll also be stitching a border of some sort above and below the design.

I'm hoping (I keep saying this) to get this next project set up today! I plan to spend tomorrow filming new stitches for the Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches (if you have a request, leave a comment...)

In the meantime, I hope you enjoy the pattern and can find some use for it!

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Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Sharp and Small: Scissors for Hand Embroidery

 
If you take hand embroidery remotely seriously as a hobby, one of the first tools you should invest in is a decent pair of embroidery scissors. Now, please don't get me wrong - I'm not a scissor snob! I realize that a $5 pair of scissors from your local craft store will still cut thread. Still, do indulge me, while I talk a bit and rave a little about good scissors!

There are scissors for embroidery... and then there are Scissors for embroidery!

What are the most basic criteria for embroidery scissors? That they be small and sharp. Beyond that, people have different preferences in scissors: different styles they look for, different price ranges they can afford, and so forth.

I like scissors that reflect quality workmanship, that perform well (the blades fit together, the mechanical opening and closing is smooth and easy), that are comfortable, and that will stand up to the ravages of time and hard work.

I've not spent a real fortune on scissors, though I have collected a few over the years. You can purchase good quality scissors, actually, without spending a fortune. A decent pair of Gingher (made in Germany and very widely available) embroidery scissors run from $15 - $30, depending on the type and where you find them.

I have a total of 6 embroidery scissors, three of which are used for goldwork and three for threads. I also have a pair of sewing shears and a pair of applique scissors, which are handy for cutwork. All except one pair are Gingher - this isn't so much due to preference as it is to affordability and availability. Most of my scissors, I bought on sale at local needlework shops or sewing shops.

Scissors for Hand Embroidery


However, I don't use them all most of the time! Here's the array of scissors presently inhabiting my tool box. They're all Gingher, except for the greyish pewter looking pair, which I'll talk about in a second.

Scissors for Hand Embroidery


These two scissors are my favorites. Notice that they are both the same size as far as length goes. The shiny pair is by Gingher and the pewter-looking pair is by Dovo. They both have decent-sized finger holes. I've never had big hands (they're more like... paws), but I can't stand forcing my phalanges into small-holed scissors, especially the ones that have decorative nobby lumps all over them!

Scissors for Hand Embroidery


Of the two scissors, the Dovo scissors are by far my favorite scissors ever! They are finer than the Gingher scissors, they are light and comfortable, sturdy, the movement of the blades is smooth and exact, the tips are perfectly pointed, and the blades are quite thin.

Scissors for Hand Embroidery


When the two are stacked on top of each other, it's obvious that they are the same length, but notice that the blades on the Dovo scissors are smaller. I always feel as if I have more control with the Dovo scissors and can be more precise, and I think this has to do with the size of the blades. (And it might just be because I'm infatuated with these scissors, so I imagine every good thing about them!)

Scissors for Hand Embroidery


Here's a close-up on the blades, with the Dovo on the left. If you compare the thickness of the blades, you can see that they are close, but the Dovo scissors are just a bit finer than the Gingher.

Scissors for Hand Embroidery


Strangely enough, if you take the ever-popular gold-handled stork embroidery scissors by Gingher (among their smallest scissors) - pictured on the left - and compare their blades to the Dovo blades (on the right), you can see that the Dovo blades are significantly finer than the Gingher stork's blades. (My stork scissors have been through it! They need to be sharpened!)

I love Dovo scissors, and this pair especially. They are excellent for small detail work. They're perfect when cutting out stitching (oh, yeah - I do that!). I love them for any kind of work where one or two threads in the fabric must be cut (for drawn thread work, for example), and they're great for cutwork and needle lace.

The Dovo scissors are a bit more expensive than Gingher, though, and hence, I only have one pair! This pair runs around $40 - $45, depending on where you find them.

I'm convinced, though, that if you are going to spend time and effort and money on a hobby, then you should have the right tools. At least one good pair of embroidery scissors is really essential! And they don't have to be Dovo, necessarily! Your budget will most likely dictate your options. But, here's an idea! If you have a birthday coming up, or some other occasion to receive a gift (um.... I wouldn't necessarily want scissors as a Valentine gift or a wedding anniversary present - the message could be wildly misconstrued!), consider dropping a subtle hint for good scissors if you don't already own a pair.

So what's your favorite brand of scissors? Do you have a faithful, favorite pair that you would be loathe to lose? If you were recommending scissors to another stitcher, which would you recommend, and why? Please tell us! C'mon - there's nothing quite as fun as talking about tools!

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Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square: Several Photos

 
Today, I was going to tell you about embroidery scissors. Good embroidery scissors. (Did I ever tell you how much I love embroidery scissors?) But I'll save that for tomorrow. Today, you get Pictures!! Actually, I was flipping through some of my photos from the goldwork / quilt square project, and I started thinking I may as well show some with "real" seam treatments.

I've gotten a bunch of e-mails - thank you! - from crazy quilters who have said not to worry about not crossing over all the seams, and that often, only one half of a seam is treated, when lace or ribbon is used, etc. Thanks for your encouragement! As one pro crazy quilter commented, "Crossing the seams is not what typifies crazy quilting anymore. Unique and beautiful embellishment is!" Well, the truth is, I wasn't really kicking myself too much over it! I did cross some seams...

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Here's a herringbone stitch worked in green Trebizond over the seam. Over the herringbone stitch, I stitched long pieces of check purl (in the manner of bugle beads) in a "V" design, alternating with the herringbone. I topped the tip of the "V" in French knots with dark green silk ribbon. In retrospect, I should have used a contrast there - but I didn't want to use red, as it would look to Christmassy, and I didn't want to use blue, as it would look too "preppy," (I don't know why those colors of green and blue always make me think "preppy" - but they do!). So I stuck with the green. Anyway, I topped the tips of the herringbone with spangles held on with off-white, pearly-colored beads, some of which had shifted about. Remember: always check your beads before you take the photos!

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Oh, dear. This one doesn't go over the seam. But it's one of my favorite shots, because I like the red flower thing (which I've already shown you) and I like the ribbon in the foreground. And the blue and gold seam that stretches up the piece from here is actually my favorite seam...

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


This is tiny fly stitch over the edge of a seam. I had to work in some Gilt Sylke Twist! And the seam was just a small stretch that ran into two already heavy-looking seams. So I went with something... well, tiny. The GST is such a fine little thread, but it's so very pretty!

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Now, this seam is a bit heavy! It's worked with pearl purl in scallops, with the red spokes worked in long straight stitches, and then little sprays of check purl, and a bead and spangle treatment.

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


And here's another seam that crosses over. It's made up of half buttonhole wheels worked in red buttonhole twist, between which are worked three daisy stitches out of purl situated around a very large spangle attached with a bead.

You can find more detailed explanations of each seam treatment, along with how-to's and so forth, in my CQMag Online article, Goldwork and Crazy Quilting.

Tomorrow - scissor talk! I'll tell you a bit about scissors and show you some comparative photos....

I'm finishing up a school term this week and getting ready for the next one - so if I slip out unnoticed, it's only to do a little "real world" work!

Enjoy your Tuesday!

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Monday, January 19, 2009

Brazilian Embroidery, Anyone?

 
No, I didn't jump from my decision to begin a whitework embroidery sampler yesterday, to delving into Brazilian Embroidery instead! But it isn't unlikely that I would take up a Brazilian embroidery project, under certain circumstances...

One circumstance would be that the project would be small and affordable. Have you seen the Threads in Bloom website? Sharon of Threads in Bloom is an experienced Brazilian embroiderer who has gone into designing her own Brazilian embroidery projects and selling them as reasonably priced instructional packages. When I happened upon her website, I noticed right away her Bird of Paradise design. I have a penchant for these flowers - but I've never seen one in dimensional embroidery. Pretty fascinating!

I haven't tried any of Sharon's kits, actually. But they apparently come with the design printed on the fabric, instructions for the project and the stitches in it, and wire and extra fabric for different dimensional parts of the project. You provide the thread...

The thing that I like about Brazilian embroidery - I've played with it a few times in the past (I bought my first Brazilian embroidery book about 16 years ago - it was one of my first embroidery books that I bought with my own money!) - is the dimensional aspect. It incorporates many of the same techniques as stumpwork, so it's a good way to get a taste of stumpwork. Overall, I find that supplies for Brazilian embroidery (especially kits, like the ones here, or instructional books) tend to be less expensive than those for stumpwork.

One notable difference between Brazilian embroidery and regular embroidery is that, with Brazilian embroidery, rayon threads are the threads of choice. They're z-twisted threads, so you'll probably notice in most stitch instructions that some of the stitches that depend on the twist of the thread are backwards, compared to other embroidery books. The bullion knot comes to mind - it's widely used in Brazilian embroidery, and with rayon threads, to get a nice looking knot, you wrap the thread the opposite way you normally would around the needle.

Anyway, for those of you interested in Brazilian embroidery - or if you're keen to try dimensional embroidery in general - take some time to check out Threads in Bloom. You might find a nice starter project to get you going!

Enjoy!



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Sunday, January 18, 2009

More Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square... and the P.O.M.

 
In anticipation of the CQMag online issue that is going to be available soon, I thought I'd give you another peek at my crazy quilt square embellished with goldwork...

I suppose I should be perfectly frank with you.

I didn't have anything else to write! Aaack. For the first time in a long time, I sat down at my computer this morning and .... nothing. Completely blank. I knew I should at least resort to a photo, since most people like pictures!

So here's combination of corners on the crazy quilt square:

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Ever since I finished this square, I've started paying closer attention to pictures of seam treatments and so forth. And I have learned something! On the square I embellished, very few of the seams actually have the embroidery crossing the seams! My embellishment mostly floats on top of the seams. But it seems, in most of the pictures I've persued, that the majority of seam embellishments in crazy quilting actually cross over the seams.

Well, live and learn. And, of course, as a salve for my ignorance, I reminded myself of The Rule of crazy quilting: that there are no rules.

(Still, one does like to look as if one knows what one is doing....!)

If you want to see the rest of this project, you can read my article on CQMag Online, titled Goldwork and Crazy Quilting.

The P.O.M. - do you know what this stands for? It stands for "The Plan of the Month." When I was growing up, we would always hear in our household, "What's the P.O.D.?" (Plan of the Day) I suppose that must've come from my dad, who was a Navy pilot. We learned lots of stuff like that from him, but the two things I remember most clearly are "P.O.D." and the call letters Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, Delta, Echo, Foxtrot, and so forth.

Anyway, that is irrelevant. Back to the P.O.M.

One of the reasons I don't have something ready at my fingertips to write about this morning is because I do not have one project underway. Shocking, isn't it!!???!!! You cannot be more shocked than I am! I am fairly aghast at the situation! So this afternoon, I shall remedy it.

Lately, I've been doing a lot of writing on goldwork. For those of you who are not goldwork fans, please bear with me! There is a little more goldwork in the near future, but you'll be happy to know that the Next Project I'm starting (this very afternoon) is whitework. The down-side is that whitework is so difficult to photograph well!

My plan for the rest of the month is to explore some whitework techniques. I had discusssed this idea with Yvette Stanton a few weeks ago: a whitework sampler - rather random - that incorporates different techniques of whitework in it. So, Schwalm, Hardanger, Mountmellick, drawn thread, pulled thread, cutwork, needle lace, blackwork, (did I just say blackwork? on whitework? I'm so confused - but yes, I have a plan regarding that)... all kinds of techniques. And regular surface embroidery in white. Just random and exploratory and fun.

At first, I thought it might be a silly idea; then, I visited Stitchin' Fingers (where I'm a member), and I noticed they had set up a group on Pulled Thread work, which I readily joined! Within the ongoing discussion right now, someone posted a link to a blog called Pins and Needles. And there I saw that someone else was already doing something akin to what I want to do, though slightly different. You have GOT to see the work on this whitework sampler by Jocelyn! It's AMAZING. It made me realize the idea isn't so silly, after all, and I solidified my determination to do it.

I've been a little hesitant about starting the whitework, though, for a couple reasons: whitework is hard to photograph, and of course, I'd like to blog the techniques, instructions, tips, etc.; "random" can sometimes be troublesome... and "too random" can be downright frustrating, once you get into it - it seems to me that working with some kind of plan is better; I was a bit stitched out, and really bogged under with real work (school work!) the last week or so. But today, I'm ACHING to start something again; and finally, I'm waiting for a fabric order from Nordic Needle (grrrr - it's taking ten forevers!), in which I have some natural-colored (oatmeal-ish) linen in a higher count - I thought the natural linen might solve the photography probs. But I'm not waiting anymore!

Therefore, the P.O.M. begins with setting up this project this afternoon.

Further ahead, in the details of the P.O.M., you will find exciting things like editing stitch videos, filming more videos, setting up a Very Big and Exciting Project that I'll tell you about as it progresses (it's one of those "this is going to take a long time - like, months" sort of projects), and the development of other little ideas that are brewing. You might wonder how all this is to come about, given the fact that January is half way over and I work full time! Well, the fact is, I have a five day weekend coming up, and I'm determined to plan it thoroughly, so I can make the most of it!

So that's what I'm up to. What are YOU up to? Anyone have a project going on that they're blogging about? Leave a link below! If you don't have a blog, drop me a line so you can send me some photos!

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Saturday, January 17, 2009

The Art of Elizabethan Embroidery

 
The other day, I told you about an online needlework resource that was new to me - Jane Zimmerman's website, where you'll find all her embroidery books, instructional CDs, and a variety of kits and instructional booklets for embroidery and needlework projects. Well, I heard from Jane, and here's some good news!

During her Christmas sale, Jane had a very special instructional packet available for a gorgeous embroidery project. The project was her Art of Elizabethan Embroidery piece, which incorporates 20 historical embroidery stitches, variations, and techniques.

The Art of Elizabethan Embroidery by Jane Zimmerman


The instruction packet, replete with color photos and all the details on how to finish this piece, was only available for a very short time.

The good news is that Jane is making this available for purchase again right now! If you are interested in learning the art of Elizabethan embroidery, you will want to take advantage of the availability of this instructional packet from one of today's great masters of historical needlework!

You can read all the details about The Art of Elizabethan Embroidery on Jane Zimmerman's website.

Don't delay - it won't be available forever!

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Friday, January 16, 2009

Tools for Metal Thread Embroidery

 
A few queries came in this week about the tools required to get started in goldwork or any other metal thread embroidery (one reader is particularly keen to work with copper threads...) To answer the question, I thought I'd show you my goldwork "tools" - they aren't all tools, and there aren't that many!

I only have one "specialty" tool for metal thread embroidery. I think the experts must have other tools that they use, but perhaps not. Most books I've seen don't have too many items beyond these. And again, they're not all tools, technically...

Goldwork and Metal Thread Embroidery Tools


The background of this photo is a velvet board - a thin piece of mat board with velvet mounted on it, used for cutting metal threads and keeping them in place while they're being cut and while you're using them. I've heard that beading boards work ok, too - they apparently have some kind of nappish surface of sorts, I suppose. It's the velvet nap that keeps the metal threads in place, and keeping them in place is a good thing, especially when you pre-cut several pieces of purl for chipwork.

I have two things I use for cutting and holding the metal threads, actually - this red board and a piece of black velvet as well. The black velvet is not mounted on a board, and while I don't use it for cutting, I've found it's handy for resting the cut threads on, especially when I may have to pack up a project while it's still underway. With the loose black velvet, I can fold it up carefully over the pre-cut threads and put it in a box. When I unfold it, the threads are still there...

From left to right, the rest of the tools, most of which many stitchers probably have in their needlework basket:

1. A decent pair of tweezers

2. A sterling silver mellore - This tool is used specifically for goldwork. Its main purpose is to help with manipulating gold threads without damaging them. It can also be used as an awl, to widen the plunging holes for the metal threads. You can find mellores made from other material besides sterling, and, incidentally, the mellore is not absolutely essential to goldwork. I've manipulated threads with the back of my tweezers....

3. Beeswax, used to strengthen couching thread

4. A plunging needle or plunging lasso - This is just a large eyed needle that you can either thread your metal threads into, to pull the ends to the back of the fabric, or you can string a piece of cord through the large eye and use that as a lasso to pull the metal threads to the back of the fabric. This is a #22 chenille needle, which seems to work ok in most cases.

5. A pair of scissors specifically for goldwork. I have three pairs of scissors specifically for goldwork, actually - and the other two I like much better than this pair! The scissors should be small and very sharp, and nice pointed tip is helpful. It's good to have a pair that is specifically for goldwork and that can be distinguished from your regular embroidery scissors. One of these days, I may invest in a pair with a fine serrated edge, but so far, the scissors I have (which are all typical embroidery scissors by gingher) have served me well.

6. A selection of couching threads, which I already explained when discussing where to find silk couching threads.

So that's it! Nothing really out of the ordinary is essential for goldwork, except the metal threads themselves. I like the fact, by the way, that Tanja Berlin gives the option on her website of ordering sample sizes of all her gold threads. The sample sizes are 9" each, and they vary in price according to the type of thread. But 9" is a good size to play with, and will go a fairly long way with most of the metal threads, except maybe passing thread. Remember as well that gilt metal threads are less expensive than the 2% threads, so if you're planning to play and practice, choose gilt.

Enjoy!

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Thursday, January 15, 2009

Needlework Around the Traps

 
Now that the holiday rush has come to a grinding halt and life is back to normal, I've had a chance to squiz around other needlework websites and do some reading and some viewing. It's great fun to see what everyone's up to! I looked, I lingered... and I made a list of the things I saw that I liked! Ready to browse?

There are different types of needlework and embroidery websites and blogs online that will cause me to pause, look, and read. Some, I pause to read because I enjoy the writer's work and find the writing itself informative, fun, or refreshing. Others strike me because the pictures grabe me right away - there's something unique or beautiful to look at. I'll linger over others because they're introducing me to a good idea or inspiring me with something new. And sometimes, I even stop to look because I find something that's just ... well, too far out. Whatever the case, there's endless variety in browsing needlework websites. A good browse is like one of those vacation road trips, where I enjoy the regular route and the side trips, and I don't even mind getting lost!

Katy of Kathryn Estelle made a darling monogrammed pillow recently. It's embroidered in red on a white background, and has a little hanging ribbon attached. This isn't really "shameless schilling" here - it's true that she used one of the monograms from my monograms pattern page - but I just thought the red monogram on the white was so perfect! I love the idea of the hanging pillow, too - a perfect accent that would make a nice little gift for someone special.

I know I already mentioned Yvette Stanton's Elizabethan Embroidery project, but I have to mention it again, because I keep going back to it. I think ... I think.... I think I want to do something similar! Now that the holidays are over, I'm in a quandary over what project to start next. I'm not quite sure this type of broject will be the thing... but I keep going back to look at it and drool a bit...

Carol-Anne of Threads Across the Web has been working on some gorgeous beading. She's working on a red background, with blue and goldish beads... I'm a sucker for red. And of course, her work is always gorgeous. I love the flowers, too - especially the fact that the petals are pointed. Nice!!

Sharon Boggan on her blog Pintangle has been documenting her band sampler and all the various stitches used in it. You'll enjoy browsing each section of the band sampler so far, but the one that really caught my eye was Band 10, on lacing running stitches. I love the effect of this, and I think it would make a great fill pattern. While you're visiting Pintangle, notice in the right hand column that Sharon teaches online classes. Her Personal Library of Stitches class begins March 4th. If you're interested in really learning a variety of stitches and developing overall stitch know-how, this would be a terrific class! It's offered through Joggles, for only $60, which is more than reasonable for a class like this. If you're a crazy quilter, or just getting into crazy quilting, she's also offering an Encrusted Crazy Quilting class beginning at the end of February. Either class would be terrific - I've heard heaps of happy comments on them! So if your New Year's Resolutions included expanding your horizons a bit in the stitch world, you should check these classes out!

Gosh, I meant to point this one out ages ago! I may have mentioned them? But, if I didn't, here they are - Romilly embroidered the camels I love. I keep going back to these, too. They're on my list for this year. How soon? I don't know - but I keep going back to Romilly's blog, Stitching with a Shimmy, and contemplating them!

Have you seen Allie's Cottage Crazy Quilt? This link is a little outdated - she's made more progress on it since then - but it's one of my favorite run-downs on the progress on this project! I love it! When she first started the cottage, I had no idea how such a piece would come together, but as she progresses with the embellishment, I find myself completely enchanted with the whole piece! Check out the waves and bubbles while you're there, too.

For those of you who like counted thread techniques, cross stitch, and blackwork, you should check out Maria del Valle's New Year's Greetings post, where she includes a beautiful counted thread pattern for free. It's a filigree heart, which would make a wonderful Valentine project. The chart is available in a PDF download below the colored graphic design of the piece. I was thinking about making a tiny version on 40 count linen, in pinks and reds.... I haven't done any counted work in a long time, but I do love the filigree on this pattern! It would be fun for a little something different, don't you think?

Megan on Elmsley Rose recently published a comprehensive post on Elizabethan embroidery stitches, listing several sources for information on Elizabethan embroidery. Included in the post, she has charted the different stitches she's been experimenting with on her historical sampler. If you like Elizabethan embroidery, or historical embroidery techniques in general, you'll find the resources Megan lists very interesting and informative!

And speaking of Elizabethan embroidery, Jeanne on Just String has made beautiful progress on an Elizabethan motif that includes plaited braid stitch. This is one stitch I'm determined to master this year, and in fact, early this year. I especially like the look of Jeanne's stitch, which is slightly different from other varieties I've seen. Notice the center of the vine, and how it has a kind of openwork pattern to it. I really like that!

Speaking of Valentine's Day (I seem to be jumping around!), there's a pretty little heart and bird embroidery pattern available for free on Andrea Zuill's blog, Badbird's.

Before she left to go camping (hard to believe, when I'm sitting here in Kansas shivering my teeth out), Jo in NZ posted some really nice samples of her crazy quilt post cards for this year. Having only briefly ventured into crazy quilting recently, I am prone to stop and ponder all seam treatments lately. These seam treatments on Jo's crazy quilt postcards are so precise and pretty! My favorite's the second one down....

Deepa on This and That recently posted a picture of a beautifully embellished Indian outfit (skirt and top). It's stunning - I love the fabric, the colors, and the embroidery. Do look at it! While you're there, check out Deepa's various stitch tutorials - she's got some excellent Indian embroidery stitch tutorials on her website, including this one on the Chinese knot used in Indian embroidery.

Pat Winter, on Pat Winter Gatherings, recently made beaded Kumihimo cords (bracelets) that are fascinating. I'm a big fan of kumihimo, but I don't take the marudai out often enough to become proficient at making cords. I use it here and there for smaller projects that need a touch of cord on them, but I've yet to make cord for cord's sake... The beaded cords here are pretty neat!

For those of you who like canvas work, check out Barbara Bergsten's Create Needlepoint! website, where you'll find a nice glossary of needlepoint stitches with clear diagrams and photos of the finished stitches. I recently discovered this blog and added to my RSS feed right away! I thought her latest post on Nobuko stitch was really interesting, as I hadn't seen this stitch before.

Di Van Niekerk has a new book out called Flower Fairies. For those of you who enjoy silk ribbon or dimensional embroidery and sweet little fairies and flowers, you're certain to enjoy this book! It looks like a lot of fun. Along with the book, you can order thread and ribbon packs for the various projects in the book. Don't be put off by the prices - they're listed by South African rands, so the exchange rate is about 10 to the US dollar. Incidentally, Di van Niekerk also offers downloadable ribbon embroidery lessons on her website. The first lesson that's available features little chickens in a barnyard. If you've ever seen any of her books, you know that the author is very thorough in instructional techniques - the lessons are bound to be a terrific way to learn silk ribbon embroidery.

And, finally, I couldn't help it. I paused on this one! The Wooly Thread blog is the blog connected with Wooly Thread, which is a great resource for Country Bumpkin's A-Z books, all kinds of wool for needlework and sewing, and satin ribbon binding for blankets, among lots of other things. The blog is used to update readers on specials and current events at Wooly Thread. Well, I just couldn't help chuckling over the heading "Needle and Nibble," announcing a needlework gathering that centers around... well, chocolate. If you live in the area (Seattle, Washington, and Surrounds) and you like needlework and chocolate, you just might want to look up this event! It sounds kind of fun! (I mean, really. What's not to like?)

Well, that's not exactly an exhaustive list, but those were my website wanderings this week. It was an exercise in procrastination. I don't really need a lot of practice in the fine art of procrastination, but now and then, I do like to make sure I'm still in shape! Now, I must get back to work. I hope you enjoy wandering as much as I did!



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Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Great Needlework Resource: Jane Zimmerman Online

 
If you haven't had a chance to visit the website of needlework teacher and designer, Jane Zimmerman - or if you didn't know about it before now - here's a good opportunity to get acquainted with a fantastic lady who revels in historical needlework of various types and canvas work...

Jane Zimmerman's website hosts some really valuable information for the embroiderer, and, because the site is relatively new, you can be sure that the future will bring much more of the same quality information, so it's a site you probably will want to bookmark and come back to over and over again.

For starters, there's a section on the website titled Needlework History. Here, you'll find an index of articles on different aspects of historical needlework. The first three articles are already available as PDFs. They cover the following topics: The Medieval Embroidery Technique of Or Nue, English Medieval Embroidery, and The Art of English Blackwork. If you like the historical aspects of needlework, don't miss these articles! They're well-written - and they're packed with pictures!

On the how-to side of things, don't miss Jane's Needlework Techniques page. The first two chapters on techniques are available as PDFs. The first chapter focuses on instruction in traditional Or Nue techniques (gold threads couched with colored silk), and the second focuses on adapting Or Nue to canvas work. Both are detailed "how to" articles, with instruction and photos. They're wonderful resources!

Besides the historical and instructional side of things, you'll find on Jane's site two nice galleries: one features guest artists, and the other features her own students' work. Definitely worth browsing if you like to look at photos of fine needlework!

In addition to information and photos, you can also purchase some of Jane Zimmerman's self-published needlework books, needlepoint kits, and instructional charts and booklets for different projects.

I hope you enjoy browsing her site as much as I did. If you have the time and the opportunity, do read her articles! They're well worth it!

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Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Goldwork Tip: Stretching Pearl Purl

 
As a follow up on how to use pearl purl, here's another option for this beautiful real metal thread. It still involves couching, but for this technique, you use a colored embroidery thread.

When you stretch pearl purl, the coils open and it looks even more like a spring. The gold thread (I always have a problem calling goldwork threads "threads" for some reason!) has nice spaces between the coils for couching, and if you couch in every other coil, you can achieve a different and interesting effect.

Goldwork: Stretching Pearl Purl


Although I already showed you this little motif when I was discussing goldwork on a crazy quilt square, I thought it worth while to bring it up again, to demonstrate what you can do with stretched pearl purl, and to show you how it looks next to regular pearl purl.

In the photo above, the last inside circle at the base of the motif is stretched pearl purl, couched in every-other-coil with red silk buttonhole twist. Directly above the stretched pearl purl is pearl purl #3, and above that, pearl purl size #F1.

To use stretched pearl purl, cut about half the length you need for the line you want to cover.

To stretch, grip each end of the pearl purl with your fingernails (well, I find it easiest to use my nails between the last coil or two). Pull gently with consistent pressure from both hands until the pearl purl has doubled in length.

Goldwork: Embroidery with Real Metal Thread: Stretching and Couching Pearl Purl


If you have coils on the end that are still closed, either stretch them or cut them off. Make sure that your length of pearl purl covers the line you want to cover, though, before you cut!! Once you've determined that you have the right length (or a little longer, even) than you need, you can thread your needle and get ready to couch.

Silk buttonhole twist worked really well here. You can use heavier threads, too, like Trebizond, or you can use regular stranded floss - but you'll probably need three strands or more for the color to show up well. Thread your needle and anchor it (either using a waste knot, or running it under threads already there). Bring your needle to the front of your fabric at the point you want your line to begin, and stitch over the first "valley" after the first coil. Then skip a valley, and stitch in the next. Continue stitching in every other valley between the coils until you reach the end of the line. Try to end with a couching stitch.

If you need to snip your gold to fit the line, snip it, then take your couching thread to the back and run it under the stitches on the back to secure it.

This is a very simple technique, and makes a really pretty line of gold, accented by whatever color you choose for a couching thread.

Another tip: though I usually will always wax a regular couching thread when I'm working with pearl purl, when I'm using the floss as a decoration (as in this technique) I don't wax the thread. The thread just looks better when it isn't waxed!

So, if you're game for goldwork, here's an easy technique to try!

Have fun with it!

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Monday, January 12, 2009

Free Pattern for Hand Embroidery or Goldwork: Stylized Pomegranate

 
The other day, I posted links to an online needlework book on church embroidery. In the book, there are some nice embroidery patterns, but they aren't very clear and they require some adjusting if you want to use them for your own embroidery patterns. One in particular struck my fancy, so I cleaned it up and here it is...

In the book, Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern, this particular embroidery design is shown as a sample showing how to frame up a piece. It's on page 125 of the actual book (plate 18) and 178 of the PDF.

In looking at the original drawing, the piece looks as if it is worked in silk shading (on the leaves) and goldwork on the undersides of the leaves, outlining the leaves, and on the main body of what appears to be a stylized pomegranate-type design. I don't know what else to call these types of designs - I've seen them listed under pomegranates in different books of design, such as 4000 Flower & Plant Motifs: A Sourcebook by Graham McCallum. If you happen to know if designs like this have a particular technical name, please let me know!

If you click on the design below, you'll get a larger version. I've also included below a PDF link for those who are interested in a PDF version of this pattern.

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern for Embroidery or Goldwork: Stylized Pomegranate


Free Hand Embroidery Pattern for Surface Embroidery or Goldwork: Stylized Pomegranate (PDF)

Truth is, I really like this little design. I'm itching to start another project, and I think this would be a fun way to combine goldwork with a tiny bit of silk shading here and there. In fact, it could just be a fun goldwork design, without any silk shading... better yet, it would work well in goldwork with some of the couching done in colored silks. Oooooh - the possibilities!

We'll see if this one works into my list of "smaller" projects for this year! In the meantime, if you can find a use for the pattern, I hope you really enjoy it!


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Sunday, January 11, 2009

Where to Find Silk Couching Thread

 
I received a couple e-mails asking where I found my silk couching thread. I thought I would answer that here, in case others are looking for good silk couching thread.

There are a variety of threads I use for couching metal threads. Which one I use is determined by a couple things: what's easily on hand without having to dig through supplies, what type of thread I'm couching and what it's made out of, and finally, what I want the finished product to look like. I sadly admit that often, convenience plays a big role in what couching thread I happen to use! Normally, I keep a spool or two in my work basket, but sometimes, I have to dig for the right thread!

Kreinik silk couching thread: This is a gold-colored thread, size 0. It's a smoother thread than Soie 100/3, and has more of a shine to it. I like it because, when I'm couching smooth passing thread, the color and shine blend in with the thread.

You can find the Kreinik silk couching thread online at the Kreinik mall. Kreinik's regular website is no longer used for retail sales, so you have to go to their shopping website, which is called the Kreinik Mall. It's kind of a strange set-up - you're required to select a store listed, then browse their inventory! But anyway, here's a link for Kreinik silk couching thread through the Kreinik mall.

Soie 100/3 in light gold or dark gold: this is an excellent couching thread, but it's a bit thicker than the Kreinik, and it isn't as shiny. It comes in a variety of colors, but for couching gold, I like the light gold or the dark gold. The dark gold looks best, I think, with 2% gold threads, while the light gold looks better with gilt threads. Because it's a bit thicker than Kreinik, I don't use it for finer sizes of pearl purl (it tends to show, and sometimes, it really moves the pearls apart), and I don't use it for finer sizes of twists (like Elizabethan twist...)

For Soie 100/3, you can purchase it at any fine needlework shop that carries the Au Ver a Soie silk threads. Online, the following places carry this silk: Hedgehog Handworks, Berlin Embroidery (in all the colors for couching metal threads), Needle in a Haystack, etc.

Tire Silk: this is a new thread for me, but after using it a bit on the latest samples of goldwork, I really LIKE it a LOT! I think it may end up being my favorite thread for couching! It's called "Machine Twist (50 weight)," and it comes in a nice darkish gold. You can also find even a finer weight Tire Silk (100 weight), which I'd like to try for the really fine gold threads, like Elizabethan twist. I've put it on my wishlist.

If you want to try Tire Silk, visit Silk Things, where you can see the different types of silk they offer, and purchase whatever kind you want. On the link there, you'll need to scroll about halfway down the page to find the 50 wt Machine Twist. Besides machine threads, they carry some hand embroidery threads, which I'd also like to try.... one of these days!

So those are the types of silk couching thread I use and some of the places you can find them. I've used polyester for couching as well. There's a yellow one that looks just like the Soie 100/3, but a little brighter. But I've found I prefer the silk. And a little goes a long way, so it isn't that much of an investment.

On a final note, vacation is over - real work begins again. I had so much I wanted to accomplish these past three weeks, and, although I accomplished quite a bit, I didn't get nearly the amount of work done on the website that I wanted to! Well, it isn't the end of the world. After all, that's what weekends are made for, right?!!

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Saturday, January 10, 2009

Free Needlework Book Online: Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern

 
This week, I came across a little old gem of a church embroidery book online. When I came upon it as a free PDF, I was delighted, so I thought I'd share it with those of you interested in church embroidery.

The name of the book is Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern, by Anastasia Marice Dolby. Typical of older church embroidery books, while there are some black and white drawings - and some little patterns that can be elaborated upon or adapted - the book is mostly text.

In it, you'll find instruction on older forms of church embroidery, so if you've ever looked at old church vestments and vesture and wondered "how they did that," this might be a book that answers those questions.

There are also plenty of tips in the book on goldwork, embroidery on linen, applique techniques, and so forth. Of course, since the book was written quite a while ago (1867), some of the instructions are a bit dated. For example, Mrs. Dobly's instructions on making a paste made me chuckle:
To make a needlework paste. - Paste which is sure to bind, and will never come through on the surface of the material, is shoemaker's paste; two pennyworth of which may be had from any adjacent shoemaker.

But supposing a shoemaker be not always adjacent, we give our receipt for an excellent paste, which may be made at home.

Take 3 table-spoonfuls of flour, and as much powdered resin as will lie on a shilling; mix them smoothly with half a pint of water, pour into an iron saucepan, and stir till it boils. Let it boil 5 minutes; then turn it into a basin, and when quite cold, it is fit for use.

Since I don't have an adjacent shoemaker, I suppose I would have to go for the home-made recipe!

Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern, by Anastasia Dolby


Some of the little patterns in the book are nice, and would adapt well to individual motifs for goldwork or silk shading, even for secular use. I may play around with some of them to see if I can work them into clean images to use as patterns. If I do, I'll certainly share them with you!

The book is available on Google Books: Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern, by Anastasia Dolby.

I don't know about you, but I really love these nice old needlework books that are generously being made available by those who take the time to digitize them.

Feel free to check out my list of free online needlework books to see some similar books available online.

Enjoy your weekend!

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Friday, January 09, 2009

Favorite Real Metal Thread: Pearl Purl

 
My favorite real metal thread is pearl purl. It's a strange name, eh? Pearl purl is called "pearl purl" because it is "purl" (coiled metal without a core) and because it looks like a line of golden little pearls because of the size of its coils. I thought I'd give you a little expansion on an excerpt from my "Goldwork on Crazy Quilting" article I recently finished, to introduce you to pearl purl and show you how it's used.

You've probably already caught on to the fact that I love goldwork. I think it's such a gorgeous form of surface embroidery - it would be hard to top, actually, when considering beautiful surface embroidery techniques. In history, goldwork was reserved for the very wealthy or for ecclesiastical use. But today, as metal thread embroidery becomes very popular once again, it is an accessible technique for many stitchers, thanks to excellent instructional books that are available (you can read some of my needlework book reviews, which include several on goldwork), thanks to the fact that more specialty needlework shops are beginning to carry goldwork supplies, and thanks to the internet, which makes finding and ordering needlework supplies a lot more convenient than it used to be!

There are several different metal threads that I would classify as favorites: smooth passing thread, check purl, and pearl purl. Out of those three, if I had to narrow it down, I'd say that pearl purl is my favorite metal thread of all, for three reasons: it's awfully pretty (!), it's versatile, and it's relatively quick to work with.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


Pearl purl is made out of a thickish metal wire that is coiled like a spring. It comes in long lengths that you cut to fit whatever line or curve you're embellishing. It's one of the harder metal threads, but it is flexible. In its unstretched state, it takes both gentle and tight curves quite well. It also takes corners and angles well - a firm pinch with the tweezers will square off the pearl purl, or bring it to a sharp point.

If you want to practice with pearl purl, you'll need a couple simple supplies: a length of pearl purl, couching thread (I use Kreinik gold colored silk couching thread in size 0), a small needle (size 10 crewel works well), beeswax, and small sharp scissors to use for cutting metal threads. If you are going to venture into metal thread embroidery, it's a good idea to have at least one pair of small sharp scissors to use solely for metal threads. Real metal threads can be pretty rough on a pair of scissors, so don't use your best embroidery scissors to play around with them, unless you don't mind making your best embroidery scissors your metal thread scissors!

Here's how I used pearl purl to create a simple vine-like motif.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


I began by drawing out a pattern on my fabric. Any line design of a flowy nature works well for practicing with pearl purl. I used a fine tipped art pen and just drew some scrolly things that fit in the corner of this block.

The ink bled a bit due to the type of fabric, but I'm using a large pearl purl (#3), so it will cover the lines just fine.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


Run your couching thread over a cake of beeswax a couple times, then run it through your fingers a couple times to distribute the wax and make your thread smooth.

Lay your pearl purl on your vine motif to measure approximately how much you'll need to cover the first scroll. Cut it a little longer than you think - it's always better to have to snip off a few extra coils at the end, rather than running short!

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


To cut the purl, snip it between two coils. Here, I'm cutting a pearl purl #2, just for the sake of this demonstration. You can snip closer to the point of your scissors if you wish, but pearl purl #2 and #3 are rather tough metal - I find I need more leverage when I cut them!

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


You can clean the cut ends up with your scissors if you need to. Sometimes, a little shard will stick up - you want to remove anything like that, either by snipping a bit off with scissors, or by pinching the shard down with tweezers. In any case, the side of the cut on the coil gets turned down next to the fabric when you couch it, so that a full coil is showing on top.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


I find it easier to begin by couching in the second coil, then couching in the first coil. Bring your needle up in your ground fabric at the beginning of the line you want to cover. Then take your needle back down over the gold, and pull through until a small loop of your couching thread remains. Sometimes, it's easier to make the loop, then stick your gold thread into the loop. Pull down on the thread gently until it's snug on the pearl purl.


Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


You want the thread to rest between the coils, not on top of a coil, because you're going to tug it down into the coils so it isn't visible.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


Give the thread a good little pull from the back. You don't have to yank it. A quick tug will pop the thread down between the coils, where it will disappear. Usually, you'll even hear a popping sound, but not always. I find it's better to give a pressured pull from the back, than to really yank on the couching thread. A "tug" is better than a "yank."

Once you couch the first and second coils of the pearl purl down onto the beginning of your line, proceed to couch the rest of the metal thread until the line is covered. Couch the thread in every third or fourth coil on straight lines or very gentle curves. As the curves become tighter, couch in at least ever other coil, so that the purl takes the curve smoothly.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


As you come to the last coils to cover your line, couch in each coil for the last two or three coils. Snip any extra coils that extend beyond the line, then use tweezers to pinch down any shards, and to turn the coil (if possible - it's not always possible) so that the least amount of the cut is visible. In fact, in the two ends showing above, the coils should have been turned better, so that the whole cut wasn't face up!

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


These two ends are a bit better, since the coils at the very end are complete.

Once you get your vine couched, you can embellish it however you wish! I used spangles around mine.

Pearl purl is a relatively easy type of metal thread to work with, and you can vary the look of the pearl in several different ways.

In the meantime, if you're game to try metal threads, you can find them through specialty shops listed at the end of this article on goldwork supplies. The larger sizes of pearl purl (2 and 3) are more expensive than the finer pearl purl, because of the quantity of metal and gold used to produce them. But even if you just buy a little bit, it'll go a pretty long way. In fact, Tanja Berlin sells sample pieces of all the goldwork threads she carries, which is a nice way to get introduced to them.

If you have any questions about pearl purl - or if anything was unclear in this little tutorial - don't hesitate to ask!

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Thursday, January 08, 2009

Becoming a Crazy Quilter, Part I: As Long as There's Gold!

 
Yesterday, I tried to exclaim again that I am not a crazy quilter. Today, as I finish putting the final touches on this article I'm writing for CQMag Online, I have re-thought that. I could become a crazy quilter.... under certain circumstances.

The first circumstance that would convert me to crazy quilting would be this: that someone out there, somewhere, would take it into their entrepreneurial heads to sell pre-made crazy quilt blocks from fine fabrics, with choices of color scheme. Hahahahha. Yeah, the fabric piecing. My block turned out a mess. Oh, yes - I know. I know what you're going to say! That's the wonder of crazy quilting! You get to cover the mess up! Still. It would be nice to have a confidently well-made block! I'd be a faithful customer...

By the way, on that note, I think it does matter whether or not you cut on the bias, even on crazy quilt squares that rely on wonky-shaped pieces.

The second circumstance that would convert me is that I could embellish with gold all the time, forever and ever.

And the third circumstance hinges on the second a bit: that I had a specific use or end product for each piece. Obviously, a quilt isn't an option. No one would want to sleep with large quantities of bright check purl.....

Anyway, all that being said, here's another seam treatment for you:

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Seam


This is rather a little and simple treatment of two seams - but it shows off the metal threads to good effect, methinks.

If you want to see the rest of this square and read some tips and tricks about using goldwork in crazy quilting, check out my article in CQMag Online, titled Goldwork and Crazy Quilting.

Ok. I have to finish!

Bye!





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Wednesday, January 07, 2009

I'm Not a Crazy Quilter, Part II

 
Ok, I've said before I'm not a crazy quilter. But ... but .... oooooh .... I may be converted, yet. Guess what I've been up to? I'm in the process of finishing and polishing as we speak, but then I got really excited, and I just had to share with you a wee little bit of what I've been doing....

I blame this solely on Allison Aller! (Well, "blame" probably isn't the right word! I thank her for the idea and the opportunity!) I can now see precisely why crazy quilting can be addictive. I've never quite done anything like it. And it was fun. It was lots of fun. Frustrating at moments, because I don't have a bunch of experience in creative crazy quilty ideas floating in my head... but perhaps that was part of the fun.

Goldwork Metal Thread Embroidery on a Crazy Quilt Square


Anyway. Just a little snippet. This is for an article for CQMag Online. Rissa is patiently waiting for the article. I'm impatiently editing photos.

Yes, Jo. I ventured over to the crazy side....

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Tuesday, January 06, 2009

Another Needlework Sale Notice....

 
Here's another good needlework sale link for this week...

Needle in a Haystack is extending their end-of-year sale on needlework supplies that include fabric, threads, charts, accessories, etc. The sale is in effect until January 11th. Here's the information from their newsletter:
All in-stock holiday items are 30% off (e.g. Christmas, Valentines, Halloween, etc)., all books and magazines are 10% off and everything else is 20% off (charts, thread, fabric, accessories, etc.). The sale is good only on in-stock items and excludes classes, finishing, items on Hold, Gift Cards and special orders. If the item is already on sale, you still get the additional savings during this sale. If you missed it last week be sure to join in the retail fun this week!

Visit the Needle in a Haystack online catalog to see if they have what you need for this year's projects...

I'm ordering several pairs of Evertite Frames. I love those things, and I can't wait to have a few in the larger sizes!

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Yvette Stanton on Whitework and Book Publishing

 
When the opportunity arises, it's a pleasure to get the "low down" from the authors and publishers in the needlework field so that we stitchers can have a behind-the-scenes look at what it's like on the business end of needlework. I've been in touch with Yvette Stanton recently, and I asked her to give us a little information on how she got into the design and publishing business. She kindly agreed to do so...

Yvette's specialty is whitework of different types - specifically, Mountmellick embroidery, Hardanger, and Ukranian drawn thread embroidery. She's published three books on those subjects, all of which are available on her website, Vetty Creations, where you can also buy whitework supplies and learn about these types of whitework.

So here's a bit about Yvette's ventures in the needlework book publishing field, in her own words. Fix a cup of coffee, sit back, and enjoy!

Yvette Stanton of Vetty CreationsMary has very kindly invited me to write about my publishing experiences. I have read her features on both Trish Burr and Alison Cole, and have to say that my experiences are different again!

I'm an Australian, living in Sydney. We are fortunate in Australia to have a wonderful stitching heritage - nothing that is particularly Australian though, because we are too young as a country to have developed something that is uniquely ours. However, here in Australia, we have some excellent needlework magazines that focus on a wide range of needlework styles, and some really excellent publishers of embroidery books. All these things mean that Australians are quite adventurous embroiderers, happy to look for something new to try.

My mum tells me that even as early as Year 10 at school I had expressed a desire to be a book designer. After school I went off to study graphic design at university, and forgot about my desire to be a book designer, until my final year. I must have decided it was a good idea again, because I that's what I did for my final year major project.

After uni I worked for a number of years as a book designer for a major international publisher. I travelled about half an hour on the train each day, to and from work. I filled the journeys with stitching - usually hardanger embroidery. It was interesting to note how many men used to ask me 'Is that tatting?' Somehow tatting seems to have seeped into the Australian male's consciousness, though they have no idea what it is. Something to do with thread, I guess!

One of the projects I spent a lot of time working on was a major hardanger embroidery piece. I had designed it with the express purpose of entering it in the Nordic Needle Hardanger Contest. I entered, and was fortunate to be one of the winners in 2000. It was scary posting off the precious embroidery for judging, and such a relief to have it safely back in my hands again at the conclusion.

Somehow I got the idea in my head to send out press releases announcing my win. I sent some off to local Australian publishers of embroidery books in the hope that they might want to include a project or two of mine in a book that they already had going. I was completely surprised when two of them suggested that I might like to write a book for them.

Hardanger Ornament by Yvette Stanton


As a result, 'Elegant Hardanger Embroidery' was published in 2002. I enjoyed the process of writing it, and then was casting around for a subject for a second book. Being passionate about whitework embroidery, I really wanted to do something along those lines. It was suggested to me that Mountmellick Embroidery would be a worthwhile subject. So in 2002, I went to Ireland to research the beautiful floral whitework embroidery that originated from the town of Mountmellick.

I invited my identical twin sister, Prue Scott to do this book with me. Prue is also an accomplished embroiderer, with the added advantage of being a trained botanical artist. In many ways, for a book on floral embroidery, she was the perfect partner.

Mountmellick Embroidery by Yvette Stanton


Our book 'Mountmellick Embroidery: Inspired by Nature' was published in 2004, and has enjoyed great success. Someone wrote to me even just this morning and said it was 'the bible' on the subject, which was lovely to hear.

After some years, my book on Hardanger went out of print, and the publishers decided that they did not want to reprint. Having already had some experience both in the publishing and authoring sides of books, I considered self publishing. I knew it would be a huge learning curve, but as I believed in my book, I decided to give it a go. I redesigned the book, adding some new material, and released the self-published revised edition of 'Elegant Hardanger Embroidery' in 2005.

My next subject was Ukrainian drawn thread work. I had done a basic class on this at my local guild, and saw that there was definitely potential for a book on it. I considered it for quite some time, began working on it, and then put it aside. I decided that it was too niche to work. Some time later I re-evaluated the book, and decided to go ahead.

We did not feel confident going to Ukraine as a family, for me to research the book, because of the language barrier - I don't speak Ukrainian! So instead we headed to New York (which my husband was just itching to visit anyway!) where there is an excellent Ukrainian Museum. I spent some wonderful days trawling through their collection of merezhka embroidery, and through the personal collection of the textile curator.

The resulting book, 'Ukrainian Drawn Thread Embroidery: Merezhka Poltavska' was self-published in 2007. It has continually pleased me with its success. For such a terribly niche subject, it is now in its third print run.

Merezhka Poltavska: Ukrainian Drawn Thread Embroidery scissor sheath by Yvette Stanton


Around this time, I was surprised by the fact that our Mountmellick book went out of print. As 'only' the author, no-one had thought to tell me that its stocks were about to run out. But run out they did, and the publishers decided that the rights could be returned to us. Almost as soon as it disappeared from the shelves around the world, people started emailing me to find out if I had any stock. I didn't because it had caught me completely unawares.

The demand impressed upon me the need to get the book back in print as soon as possible though. I knew the book was good, but I was determined to make it even better. I revised the stitch instructions, adding more variations and changed them all into colour. I also added close-up photos of every stitched motif in the projects. I re-did the knitting instructions to be much more comprehensive, and added another even more authentic knitted fringe method. Two new projects were added. The fully revised and expanded edition was released at the end of 2007.

Probably one of the main differences between me and other self-publishers is that because I did graphic design at university and am also a stitcher, I do pretty much everything for my books myself. (Although Prue and I worked on the first edition of the Mountmellick book together.) So when I do a book, I write it, I design the embroideries, I stitch the embroideries, I do all the illustrations, I take all the pictures, I draft the patterns, I design the book internals and the cover. These are all the parts I feel completely confident in handling myself. I always get several other people to proof-read everything though. My biggest learning curve has been the selling and distribution side of the business. I think I will always be learning new things in this area, which doesn't worry me in the slightest. It means I can always improve upon what I do.

I have my books printed overseas, so have gotten used to dealing with shipping agents and the like. It is wonderful to have excellent distribution in Europe, America and Australia. As time goes on, I'll work on expanding into other markets. I have already had one enquiry about translation rights, so probably further down the track I'll look more into that area.

So what have I been doing since the Mountmellick book revision? Several things! I began work on another book, but had to put it aside due to health issues. I have also completed the initial research on another book, which I am just so impatient to write! But because I am limited by health, I am working on a left-handed stitch dictionary which fits better with my current capabilities. I am so enjoying exploring stitches! And the book keeps getting bigger than Ben Hur because I keep finding more to put in it - more stitches and more detail.

Life could change a little this year, as my youngest child is beginning school. It will mean that its very quiet at home. I could either go mad with the quietness, or relish the solitude and get lots more work done. We'll have to see how things pan out! I just consider myself extremely fortunate to be able to do something that I love so much, as a job. I'll never get rich (publishing never makes anyone except the most famous authors rich) but I'm certainly having fun!

If you're interested in whitework, you'll find that Yvette's three books are excellent sources of how-to information. I've heard her book on Mountmellick embroidery described as "THE book" on Mountmellick, as well as the "bible" when it comes to this type of needlework. It's an excellent resource! Besides ordering through the book page on Vetty Creations, if you live in the States, you can order her books through Nordic Needle.

Yvette also has a blog called (appropriately!) White Threads. Here, she keeps us up to date on her work, her embroidery projects, book publishing plans, and various other tidbits. Yvette doesn't just do whitework - check out her post on her completed Elizabethan embroidery piece. It's stunning!

Right now, Yvette's exploring the possibility of publishing a stitch dictionary for left-handed embroiderers! I find this really exciting, not because I'm left-handed (I'm not), but because I teach a lot of left handed children and adults. If her other books are anything to go by, I know this is going to be a wonderful resource! So I'm looking forward to that with my fingers crossed!

Thanks, Yvette, for the fun and informative article!

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Monday, January 05, 2009

Revisiting Breath of Spring Embroidered Garden: It's now a Pocket

 
Last summer, I had the best time embroidering this garden titled "Breath of Spring," which was a project featured in one of last year's Inspirations Magazine. I have to admit, this was one of the Most Enjoyable Projects I've worked on. Perhaps that's a retrospective view - I do remember having a few frustrating moments while working on it. For example, I got quickly tired of working the bullions for the wheat. But when we're satisfied with the outcome of a project, it's easy to remember the whole project with intense pleasure, rather than to try recalling what we didn't like about it, isn't it?

A few days before Christmas this year, I set about turning this embroidered garden into its intended purpose, which, according to the original project, is as a pocket on the outside of a tote bag. I wanted to make the tote bag for my Mom for Christmas, so I gathered all my supplies, read (and re-read, and re-read again) the assembly instructions, cut the fabric, and set myself to constructing the tote bag.

Right away, I ran into a snag. The project called for a heavy fusible interfacing for the pocket, and in the assembly instructions, it said to fuse the interfacing to the pocket panel. Now, there are two pieces to the pocket, the embroidered panel, and the pocket lining. Since the instructions said to fuse the interfacing to the pocket panel, I automatically assumed they meant the embroidered panel. And they may have. I still, to this day, don't know.

Whatever the case, I fused the heavy (very heavy - as in, stiff-like-a-board heavy) interfacing to the back of the embroidery.

You know that nagging little voice that tells you that you should probably double-check with someone before you take an irrevocable step? I heard it that day. But I didn't heed it. Hmmm.....

After fusing the interfacing to the back of the embroidery, I trimmed the embroidered panel to size, leaving a seam allowance, and I trimmed the lining (a piece of natural linen the same color as the background of the embroidery) to size, and then I sewed both pieces together, right sides together, as instructed, leaving a four inch opening for turning it right-side-out.

And this is what I wanted to show you. I was thinking I'd allow you to experience my anxiety. Oh, we've all been there, I'm sure - what IF? What if I ruin it? What if the whole thing flops? ...

Hand Embroidery on the Outside Pocket of a Tote Bag - Embroidered Garden


This is the beginning of the process of turning the piece right sides out. It took forever, just to get it into a position where I could start pulling the insides out, without snagging the embroidery or pinching that fused fabric into a permanent crack...

Hand Embroidery on the Outside Pocket of a Tote Bag - Embroidered Garden


Finally, a leaf is peeking through.

Hand Embroidery on the Outside Pocket of a Tote Bag - Embroidered Garden


Most of the garden is out.

Hand Embroidery on the Outside Pocket of a Tote Bag - Embroidered Garden


All of the garden is out, in one big crumpled mass.

Hand Embroidery on the Outside Pocket of a Tote Bag - Embroidered Garden


Semi-ironed again, it's lying on the fabric for the tote bag.

Hand Embroidery on the Outside Pocket of a Tote Bag - Embroidered Garden


There was nary a pucker in this project when it came off the frame - that was part of its beauty. It was so crisp looking. So solidly straight and flat, even without ironing. I LOVE IT when embroidery comes out like that.

Now, no matter what I do to iron the piece, the fabric among the embroidered leaves, flowers, and grasses is ripply and bumpy....

I weep to think on it!

Hand Embroidery on the Outside Pocket of a Tote Bag - Embroidered Garden


Ok, I don't really weep to think on it. But it wasn't one of my most pleasant finishing experiences, working on this.

I'm not a great lover of finishing, by the way. I think I may have mentioned this fact once or twice or ten thousand times.

This experienced confirmed it! Still, undaunted, I did continue in the construction of the bag, until I ran out of top stitching thread. My sister was out shopping that day, so a quick call was all it took to guarantee the arrival of more top stitching thread by nightfall.

With nothing else to do on the tote until then, I moved on to the next logical project:

Christmas Cookies in lieu of Needlework


...and I still haven't finished the tote bag!
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Sunday, January 04, 2009

Needlework Sales...

 
At the beginning of the New Year, it isn't unusual to find some online needlework shops with sales going on - sales you might not normally see during the year. Here's a couple spots running discounts right now, if you're interested in picking up a few items for your needlework stash...

Hedgehog Handworks has a 15% off everything sale going on. You'll see some lower-than-anywhere-else prices on Gilt Sylke Twist, at $16.83 / spool. It might be a good time to pick up some of their more recent colors! Also, if you like floche, you can get the 32 yard twists for only $1.06 right now. I am sssoooooo tempted to build up a good stash on this thread....

Dora's Southern Heirlooms is having a moving sale. Right now, you can get 50% off all silk ribbon. I think the plan is to switch sale items each week, so it might be a good site to keep an eye on.

Country Bumpkin is having a sale through January 9th - 50% off select items. I'm actually really excited about this one, and I will admit I ordered a kit I've been hankering for! With the exchange rate and the cheapest possible shipping, it was a pretty good deal. They've got magazines, books, selected kits, gift packs, and other stuff on sale. If you're visiting their site from the States, make sure you switch the currency (on the left side bar) - it makes quite a bit of difference as you're looking through the sale items!

So, if your New Year's resolutions included trying out some new needlework techniques, maybe you'll find something in the above stores to help you out on that. Of course, if your resolution was to resist building more stash... uh.... well. Just ignore this post!

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Saturday, January 03, 2009

Thread Painting Tips - a Follow Up

 
Yesterday, I touched on the topic of thread painting with one thread as opposed to two or more, showing you the difference in the way the finished project looks. Here's a follow up tip for you...

After writing yesterday's post, I heard from Trish Burr, who is well known for her many books on long and short stitch shading techniques. She is, in my mind, one of the real masters of long and short stitch shading, and, if you're familiar with her books, you will probably agree with me on that!

Trish wanted to add a suggestion. Her tip is a new idea to me, but it makes a lot of sense, and I am looking forward to trying it out on my next thread painting project, which hopefully won't be too far distant.

Anyway, here's the tip:
If the shape you are filling is large enough - try using 2 strands of thread in the first row and changing to one strand in subsequent rows. This enables you to fill the first row closely which is important because you need to have substantial stitches to work back into - but still create a fine (one strand) effect overall. I do this on all my needle painting now; it saves a lot of time.

Thanks, Trish! I can't wait to try this out!

This weekend, I'm finishing up a "little" project that I'll be sharing with you in "little" stages, as soon as I can get the finish work and final photography done. Then, I have plans! BIG PLANS! Well, the truth is, I have one more week of vacation before the school year kicks in. During that week, I'll be doing the following:

1. School work - yes, it is inevitable. I must. I've scheduled a chunk of time each day to devote to my real job, in preparation for the next semester and to finish off the last semester.

2. Stitch videos - yes, I will. I will spend at least two filming sessions next week on the list of stitches that I've compiled, in order to expand my Video Library of Hand Embroidery Stitches. The filming takes time, but the editing takes even more time for each stitch, so please don't expect a sudden onslaught of videos, though I do plan to be trickling in some new ones over the next couple months. One of them will certainly be that long-awaited long and short stitch video, if all goes well!

3. Project set up - any time I have time off, I like to set up at least one major project that I can devote time to in the following months. I'm planning on setting up a large-ish project that involves needlepainting and goldwork on a somewhat overdone and grand scale. Probably biting off more than I can chew, as usual. In addition, I have three small projects to set up, but no immediate deadline on any of them, so - life is good!

4. Blog catch up - I need to index a lot of new stuff on the website from the last couple months, so I'll be devoting a bit of time to re-organizing Needle 'n Thread. I'll let you know what I accomplish!

So those are my plans, which of course must be mixed in with regular real-life, daily activities. Think I can do it all? Well - you will be the first to know if I do, and even if I don't!

Have a terrific weekend!

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Friday, January 02, 2009

When Less is More in Thread Painting and Shading Techniques

 
Here's a great example of the "less is more" theory. In thread painting - which is also called needle painting, long and short stitch shading, silk shading, or many other and varied names - the smooth blending of colors and shades is what the embroiderer tries to achieve. Take a look at these two pictures, and you'll see what I mean by "less is more."

These are two versions of the same needlework kit, and both versions were stitched by Margaret Cobleigh, who kindly sent along the photos. I had mentioned her improvement of this pansy kit a while ago, but since she's getting ready to teach a class in thread painting, she dug out both photos to show her embroidery group the difference between the two projects. I thought it would be interesting to line them up together in one post, to demonstrate why, as Margaret put it, two threads are not always better than one!

Long and Short Stitch Shading on an Embroidered Pansy


Here's the first version, worked according to the kit instructions, which called for two threads in the needle while embroidering. Notice especially the lower petals of the pansy, the light shades on the outside and the black on the inside. I wouldn't look at it and call it "bad" - but it certainly isn't as smooth and blended as I expect thread painting to be. It's thick and heavy-looking and the color breaks are rather chunky.

Long and Short Stitch Shading on an Embroidered Pansy


Here's the second attempt. The only difference is that Margaret used one thread, instead of two. To see the point clearly - that one thread works better than two when you're trying to shade using long and short stitch - look especially at the middle petal on the right side of the pansy. I think it illustrates the point best. In fact, all the lower petals show very well a smooth blending of shades. Overall, the blending in the whole piece is much smoother, not nearly as chunky or heavy looking.

So there's a tip for those of you who are thinking about venturing into thread painting this year... better results are achieved with one thread! It's always tempting to double your thread when you're covering space in embroidery. After all, you'll cover twice as much space in the same stitching time if you're using twice as much thread! Well.... even if that is true, you may not be as pleased with the results! This holds true with long and short stitch shading (shown here) as well as with satin stitch. You can get a far smoother satin stitch with one thread than you can with two or more.

On another note, I realized I forgot to wish everyone a Happy New Year yesterday! But then, New Year's Day is never really the day I start the "new year" - resolutions and all that. It's still a holiday, after all! So, on this Second Day of January, 2009, please be assured of my sincere wishes for a very happy New Year to all of you. May you fulfill all your plans for this year in health and happiness.

Thank you as well for all your very kind comments on my recent weekend stitching marathon. A couple questions crept up in the comments - I'll answer those there soon.

Have a great Friday, enjoy the weekend, and I'll keep you posted on this weekend's project as I finish it! It's a fun one!

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Thursday, January 01, 2009

Unbelievable Embroidered Sampler

 
Have you ever looked at a piece of needlework in stunned silence, turned it around in your hands, looked closer, turned it over, touched it, studied it, then looked up and said to anyone willing to listen - "Oh gosh. You're just not going to believe this thing!" And then shown it off, to find that your reaction isn't an isolated one?

Well, that's exactly how things went when I opened this amazing embroidered sampler sent as a Christmas gift from a friend. You might be tempted, at first glance, to say "Oh, it's another sampler," but I think once you see it in context, you can't help but say, "WOW...!"

So here it is, for your first delightful glance:

Hand Embroidery on a Little Sampler


And here's the back of the sampler, which is neat and tidy:

Hand Embroidery on a Little Sampler


Here's a side shot:

Hand Embroidery on a Little Sampler


And, finally, here's the sampler in perspective, next to a postage stamp, a quarter, and an inch ruler:

Hand Embroidery on a Little Sampler


That's right - this tiny little detailed sampler is 1 3/8" x 1 3/4" - not a whole lot bigger than a postage stamp!

Christiana embroiders miniature things. She uses kitchen towels (flour sack towels) for her ground fabric, stitching over one thread in the towel. The stitches are half cross stitches (or tent stitch), and I think she uses one strand of embroidery floss - but it's so incredibly tiny, that she might be using regular thread. She'll have to enlighten me on that!

Hand Embroidery on a Little Sampler


Now can you understand my reaction? I was awe struck! I never considered doing miniature embroidery like this, but I can see how it would be perfect for a number of little applications - doll houses, for example, come to mind. But there are other uses, too: a little special pendant or to adorn the lid of a little tiny box... I haven't decided what I'm going to do with it yet. I'd like to find the perfect small frame for it, so I can display it.

I willingly and profusely admit that I love this little sampler! It was such a surprise gift! It came in a great little package:

Hand Embroidery on a Little Sampler


Along with the sampler were some other treats: a spool of Tire Silk, some Japanese snippers, and a nice little package of Glorianna threads and ribbons!

Thank you, Christiana, for the sweetest of little Christmas presents!

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