Tuesday, December 08, 2009

Stumpwork Holly and Promises of Gold

Looking for a stitching challenge - a beautiful, small stumpwork embroidery project perfect for Christmas?

I've been a fan of Sandra Vass's beautiful embroidery - her stumpwork and goldwork - for a while, enjoying her photos posted on Stitchin' Fingers, a vast social network for needleworkers established and maintained by Sharon Boggan (of Pintangle) down in Australia. My favorites among Sandy's work include her goldwork gecko and this beautiful piece:

Goldwork by Sandy Vass, from Hinda Hands Goldwork Sampler


This is Sandy's rendition of the Goldwork Sampler by Hinda Hands, from the book Church Embroidery.

Isn't it Stunning?

Well, the good news is that Sandy has started a blog! It's called Gold n' Stitches. The first project she's featuring is a little goldwork and stumpwork holly project.

Goldwork and Stumpwork Holly Design by Sandra Vass


In her first post on the Christmas Holly Stumpwork design, you'll find a downloadable pattern, a thorough supply list, and the first instructions for completing this pretty project.

This is a perfect little project for delving into stumpwork - it's small enough to be manageable (without being overwhelming), and it's perfectly suited to the season. I was thinking it would make a really pretty inset for a box lid - a nice gift idea!

Please take a minute to stop by Sandy's new blog, Gold n' Stitches and welcome her to the world of blogging. I'm sure that she will have much to give us, when it comes to beautiful goldwork and stumpwork projects. I'm looking forward to seeing her website develop!

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Thursday, October 29, 2009

Goldwork and Tudor Designs: Possibilities!

I've really been itching to do some goldwork lately, but I've got so many projects already going and several projects that I need to get started on, that all I can do when it comes to goldwork right now is dream. You know how that is, don't you? This one particular design has be besotted...

BibliOdyssey is one of those places I go to get inspired, and last week when I visited, I wasn't disappointed - there was no lack of inspirational stuff floating about the website. This post on The Tudor Pattern Book really caught my eye, and this one pattern in particular struck me as particularly suitable for goldwork.

Stylized Tudor Floral Pattern for Hand Embroidery


When considering an picture or design that is not made specifically for embroidery, I usually try to isolate the elements within the design that would work as an embroidered image. So I took this picture from BibliOdyssey, opened it in Photoshop and got rid of the background. I didn't spand a lot of time cleaning the thing up - just a few button clicks - but I did at least isolate the part I like.

At this point, I figured I could trace the image in Inkscape or a similar program, to end up with a crisp line drawing, but instead, I started playing with a couple very basic filters in Photoshop and reduced the image to this:

Stylized Tudor Floral Pattern for Hand Embroidery


For some reason, a black and white image is my preferred format for any kind of potential embroidery design. I seem to see more possibilities when I can reduce the image to outlines with a bit of shading but no color.

With this piece, I'm thinking in terms of a combination of silk shading and goldwork.

So what do you think? Should I just chuck everything else and launch into a completely senseless goldwork project?

Oh well! Since "chucking" everything else right now probably isn't prudent, I suppose I'll just stay the present course. However, if I do drift off...

... you'll know what I'm doing!

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Thursday, October 01, 2009

Goldwork & Metal Thread Flower Tutorial

Aurélie Clay, who manages the website Brodely, has worked up a very clear tutorial for making a goldwork & metal thread flower. She uses colored purls, couching them in a basketweave pattern, to fill the petals of a simple but beautiful flower. This would be a great technique for making ornaments! I love the the idea, the materials, the whole technique! If you get a chance, check out her tutorial. She's also selling colored purls on Brodely, if you're looking for a European resource. I was thinking this technique would work great with Thistle Threads new silk-wrapped purls, too.

Enjoy the tutorial!

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Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Church Embroidery: Watch This Progress!

 
When Ruth O'Leary contacted me about her taking an embroidery commission on a banner for Durham Cathedral, I was really intrigued about her banner-making plans. Since then, she has undertaken the commission and begun the work. And best yet, she's blogging the whole process!

If you haven't had an opportunity to stop by Ruth O'Leary Textile Arts, now would be a good time to do so, while she's still in the relative beginning stages of the St. Cuthbert's Banner.

Ruth O'Leary Textile Art Embroidery and Inspiration


Of course, if you like goldwork, you should stop by just to take a look at her header on her blog. I love it.

Ruth has been commissioned to re-create the St. Cuthbert's Banner, a banner of which there is no surviving image, but which was described in detail some five hundred years ago in writing. From the written description, she is creating her version of the banner.

So far, on the St. Cuthbert's banner, you can see Ruth's fabric choices, the conceptual design, a mock-up, the appliqué process, and the first leg of the cross, which is worked in red velvet, with red satin pieces appliqued on to create the design. You can also see a very nice goldwork circle already finished. She also shows how she neatened the edge of the applique cross with couched gold Jap - all the steps being interesting and suspense-building components of the whole creative process behind this banner. I can't wait to see it finished!

This year, I agreed to make a banner for a church-related event that takes place at the end of October. Oh golly, October is coming up fast! While Ruth's banner is much more complex, much more artistic, and much more historically relevant to the church for which it is commissioned, mine is - at least in concept so far - relatively simple, and mostly appliquéd. The color scheme, though, is the same - red, white, and gold, which are typical (and glorious) liturgical colors. Though time seems to be somewhat scarce, I have to admit that watching Ruth's process inspires me to want to push through my banner project and make some headway on it!

You reckon I can manage it? Realistically speaking, I'm somewhat doubtful. And if I don't, that's ok, I suppose. I can still enjoy the whole banner-making process (and actually, I can enjoy it a whole lot more!) by watching Ruth's St. Cuthbert Banner unfold.

I hope you get a chance to check out her website and watch this historical re-creation come to life!

Enjoy!

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Friday, August 28, 2009

Goldwork Embroidery: A Thread Tidbit

 
Here's a wee tidbit on the real metal thread called "flatworm" that's used in goldwork. This is going to make a Really Short Post, but I thought the information was interesting, nonetheless...

Flatworm is a real metal thread used for embroidery. It is also called "oval" thread, and is made just like smooth passing thread used in goldwork, but then it is rolled between two rollers to flatten it out.

Flatworm goldwork embroidery thread


This is what the wonderful, lustrous stuff looks like! Flatworm! Ahhhhh - a Bee-yoo-tee-ful goldwork thread! I've written about Flatworm before, and I still have a bit of an infatuation with it every time I see it. And yet, I have not done a lick of stitching with it. But it's pretty, isn't it? And it's got a great name!

While none of this information so far is too unique, this is the part I like:

Flatworm really does have a connection to its namesake, the Worm. It has been and is produced for the fly fishing industry. Fly fishing enthusiasts cut up the flatworm for making fishing lures, hoping to trick the little fishies (actually, they probably want to trick the Big fishies) into thinking that the somewhat twisted, flat broad reflective metal thread is a worm.

I never quite felt as akin to fish as I did when I learned this bit of information. In fact, I have never felt akin to fish at all.

But now, I admit that I can relate. If I were a fish, I'd go for a flatworm lure. Wouldn't you?

Info from a goldwork threads manufacturer who contacted me to explain! Thank ye kindly!

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Tuesday, August 04, 2009

Fantastic News from Hedgehog Handworks!!

 
Hedgehog Handworks has recently been ... well, "updated," for lack of a better word. It's always been a wonderful online shop, and a great resource for needlework books, costuming supplies, goldwork supplies, and threads. But nooooow, they've gotten better! Let me tell you all about it!

Hedgehog Handworks is an online-only needlework shop; there's no brick-and-mortar Hedgehog. The online store is run by a super nice lady named Joady, and I love her taste in supplies!

Hedgehog Handworks Needlework Supplies


What will you find new on the website?

For starters, Joady is now carrying some fantastic linen - Legacy linen in different weights as well as some Strathaven linen that's similar in weave to 17th century linen.

You'll also find at Hedgehog the whole range of Hardwicke Manor hoops, which I recently discussed with you here on Needle 'n Thread.

And - jolly, jolly! Are you looking for slate frames? She's got plenty of sizes available!

Recently, I reviewed the book Letters and Monograms from the House of Malbranche, and you'll find it available at Hedgehog, too.

But here's the icing on the cake: During August, to celebrate their 22 years in business, Hedgehog Handworks is offering FREE SHIPPING to US customers.

(Murphy's Law: I placed an order last week!)

Hedgehog Handworks Needlework Supplies


Now would be a good time to indulge in a few trial supplies, like different goldwork threads (she also carries the range of Gilt Sylke Twist - and it's less expensive than anywhere else I've seen it!)

Goldwork Supplies from Hedgehog Handworks


If you're looking for goldwork supplies, you'll find a whole range of real metal threads available. The last time I splurged on goldwork supplies, I bought them from Hedgehog. Maybe you just want to "try" a thread, but didn't want to pay shippingn on top of the cost? Now you can!

Another thing: You'll get fantastic customer service, I'm sure. It's sometimes difficult to say that about a shop absolutely , because everyone has their On Days and their Off Days. But I've never ordered anything from Hedgehog without having a pleasant experience - and quick delivery, too!

So, stop by Hedgehog during August, see what's new in the shop, and enjoy free shipping!

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Tuesday, July 28, 2009

A New Old Metal Thread: Silk Purl - Have you Seen It?!

 
The folks behind the Plimoth Plantation 17th century jacket project have been busy! They've brought another new metal thread onto the market, one which was used in 17th century raised embroidery, but eventually fell out of use and disappeared from the market. We've heard the story before - remember that these are the same folks behind the Gilt Sylke Twist now once again available to the embroiderer after a couple centuries of absense! Silk Purl is the new thread, and here's a look at it...

Silk Purl is made up of a fine copper wire wrapped with filament silk, then turned into a tight coil. If you're familiar with goldwork embroidery threads (real metal threads for embroidery), you can compare Silk Purl with regular purls used in goldwork. (You can see some gold purls being worked in my beetle wing goldwork project from a while ago, if you want!) The difference between regular gold or gilt purls and Silk Purl is that Silk Purl is covered in silk, which means it's colored and shiny like silk and the coil is a little fatter than the coil you'd see on a regular gold or gilt purl.

Silk Purl: Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Silk Purl is a really incredible thread! I realize that trends and tastes change as the years pass, but it's so hard to imagine that a thread this interesting could just fade from existence and not be resurrected again for some centuries!

I love the look and the feel of the Silk Purl. It feels hard (due to the wire) but smooth (thanks to the silk!), a little boingy, and bumpy.

Silk Purl: Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Just like with regular purls used in goldwork, if you stretch the Silk Purl, you'll get an elongated spring-looking length of wire that will not close back on itself.

Silk Purl: Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


If you unwrap the spring, you can see the colored wire that forms the core of the metal thread, and the silk, of course, which becomes very limp and silk-like. It's nice silk and it feels great to the touch!

Silk Purl: Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Silk Purl is hollow in the center, so small pieces cut from the length of the Silk Purl can be sewn on just like bugle beads. According to Tricia Wilson Nguyen, the lady behind the research that resurrected these historic threads, Silk Purl was sewn on in a number of ways: couched in long wavy lines (sometimes with the Silk Purl slightly stretched - think human of animal hair in 17th century embroidery); sewn on in loops; or sewn on in a kind of chipwork method to fill an area, as is done with check purl. Tricia included some great photos of historical examples of Silk Purl in use in her last newsletter from Thistle Threads. If you haven't signed up for her newsletter, you should. Though they don't come out often, when they do, they're full of interesting tidbits on historical embroidery.

Silk Purl: Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


To give you an idea of the size of Silk Purl, I lined a piece up with a regular piece of 6-stranded DMC cotton, which is what you see here in the foreground of the photo.

Silk Purl: Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Although in size, Silk Purl is more solidly round and stands up off the fabric, you can see that it isn't too far in size from a regular piece of DMC (with all 6 strands still in tact).

Silk Purl: Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Silk Purl comes in colors to that match Gilt Sylke Twist, with about 8 colors available right now. It is uncertain whether the thread will continue to be manufactured, and the colors presently being manufactured are short in quantity, so if you see a color you like over at Thistle Threads, don't delay in ordering it - you never know when it may be gone again for good.

I ordered a sample pack of the colors, to see what Silk Purl was all about. I think it's a really neat thread, and that those interested in stumpwork or any dimensional embroidery techniques, or goldwork, would find the thread inspiring. I've been mulling over all kinds of possible uses ever since the package arrived in the mail, and I've added it to my list of things to play with in the near future! I'm looking forward to it!

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Saturday, July 25, 2009

Two Beautiful Goldwork Embroidery Books!

 
For a very long time, Alison Cole's goldwork books have been on my wish list. Her goldwork projects and kits are enchanting, to say the least. They incorporate such beautiful colors and design elements, and sometimes in very unusual ways. I love looking at her work!

Finally, while enjoying that incredibly long road trip earlier this summer, my wishes were fulfilled, and both of Alison's books were added to my library. In fact, I got a deal on one of them...

The two books in question here are All that Glitters and The Midas Touch. You can read about Alison's publishing adventures with these two books here on Needle 'n Thread, where she was featured in a "Designer Spotlight" article last summer. It's a fascinating story, especially if you are interested in the craft book publishing industry!

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


Alison self-publishes her books. They are not available through discount book warehouses, such as Amazon, but they are available at many fine needlework shops around the world. The books, as the covers attest, are full of goldwork projects and stumpwork projects that incorporate goldwork.

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


The majority of the content of both books concentrates on projects, but both books have extensive stitching technique sections as well.

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


For each project, the reader is given the patterns in line drawings, detailed materials lists and instructions on completing the project, and photos of the finished project.

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


All the necessary techniques for goldwork are covered at the beginning of the work, using clear photos and directions.

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


For different techniques - such as detached petals in stumpwork - there are colored photos of samples of the technique. The works in the photos are really something! Inspirational, to say the least. At the same time, having clear photos of the finished elements help the reader "get it."

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


The general instructions in the books apply to any type of goldwork and stumpwork. They aren't relegated just to the designs in Alison's books. If you're learning goldwork, for example, chances are you will learn to couch passing thread around corners, a technique clearly illustrated in the "stitches and techniques" section.

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


Some of the projects in the books are really just unbelievably gorgeous! Could you imagine finishing such a piece as the fuschia in the photo above, and having it hanging on your wall? Talk about a beautiful accent - and what a conversation piece!

Alison Cole Goldwork Books


I've been a fan of goldwork and stumpwork for a long time - but I've mostly thought of them as separate techniques. Yes, you might see, occasionally, some stumpwork highlighted with a bit of goldwork, or some goldwork that employs a bit of dimensional work, but in Alison's books, she really combines the two techniques in amazing ways!

I was really happy with the purchase of these two books! I found them at Nordic Needle, and, to tell you the truth, they were the only definite things on my list to buy there. I've seen them there for a while, but was never ready to pay the price and the shipping for both. I felt justified in buying both of them by saving on shipping! (We won't discuss how much the road trip cost in the first place, ok?) Funny how we tend to justify things like that...

But, to make the picture even brighter, I visited Nordic Needle on a Monday, which was perfect! They have, on Mondays, a "Monday Madness" special, where you can draw a card that has a discount amount on it, from 10% up to 50% off an item in your order. Guess what? I got 50% off one of the books. In addition to that, because I had travelled a certain number of miles, I got another percentage off the whole order (a little special they run for out-of-town visitors, based on the number of miles they travel). So it worked out, and my patience in waiting for these two books paid off.

If you're looking for a challenging goldwork project, or if you just want to dream a bit about working one in the future, I'd suggest investing in one or both of Alison's books, especially if you're a fan of dimensional embroidery. While the books aren't heavy on step-by-step beginner information, they do contain enough instruction in them for the adventurous beginner in goldwork and for the novice who has dabbled a bit in goldwork. If you're absolutely brand new to embroidery, though, you might want to get some simpler techniques down first.

My favorite of the two books is the second one, The Midas Touch, but the first one, All That Glitters, is excellent, too.

In the States, both books are available through Nordic Needle.

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Saturday, June 27, 2009

A Beginner's Goldwork Kit

 
A couple weeks ago when scoping out the path of this road trip I'm currently on (you haven't missed me, have you?), I came across, via Google Maps, a needlework shop in Minnesota called Oak Hill Designs. While browsing their site, which features everything at 40% off right now (perhaps closing down?), I came across a section on goldwork. While most of the stock in the online store seems to be sold out or dwindled to one left (still worth taking a look!), I was happy to see that the goldwork section had four interesting looking kits in it. I bought two, and here's one of 'em.

According the goldwork section on the Oak Hill Designs website, which I double-checked while writing this post (June 17th), there are still four goldwork kits available on the site. I was a little disappointed to see that the Goldwork Rose kit (below) is listed as $22.95 on sale - when I bought it, it was $10.00, which was exciting. I thought it might be a really good opportunity for those of you who want to try goldwork to be able to do so affordably. I'm not sure, actually, if the $22.95 price is worth this little kit, but for $10, I didn't think you could go wrong. If you are looking for a goldwork kit, though, the Fishes from Bangalore is also $22.95, and I think it's (overall) a better kit - more color, kind of fun!

Anyway, should this little goldwork rose kit be reduced in price again, and if you're interested in trying your hand at goldwork, here's a little information about the kit. Maybe you'll be able to track down other similar kits by the same designer or company that produces this one.

Beginner Goldwork Kit


The kit comes in a swell little gift bag. I thought that was kind of neat - everything packaged in a little bag, with a color photo of the finished project on the front.

Beginner Goldwork Kit


Kit contents:

Moire fabric, on which the design is worked. I would personally back this with muslin, as I've stitched on moire before for goldwork, and without the muslin backing, there isn't enough support. The design is not printed on the fabric.

Needles in three different sizes for the various parts of the design.

Instruction booklet with design page.

Threads: Rajmahal art silk in pinks and greens for the colored threads that are used for couching and also for the embroidered details; gold-colored Rajmahal art silk for couching the gold threads; Imitation Jap gold; a fine gold thread; and two short length of purls (about 3 inches each), one check and one smooth.

Beginner Goldwork Kit


The little instruction booklet covers everything from transferring the design, to setting the project up on a frame, to the various stitches used and where they're used, to color placement - in short, everything you need to know to complete the project.

Beginner Goldwork Kit


Ut-oh! While the little gift bag packaging on the outside is fine, the packaging on the inside leaves a little to be desired. The purls were crushed by the other content in the kit. Not good, but this certainly doesn't mean that it would be the case in each kit. For $10, I still think the kit is worth it. For $22.95, I'd have second (and third) thoughts before buying it.

Overall, though, I think the concept is great, don't you? A small beginner's goldwork kit, all neatly packaged.

The concept is great - a small beginner's goldwork kit with a simple design at an affordable price. (Again, the $22.95 might be a bit steep for the contents herein!)

In any case, I thought it would make a great gift for a young needleworker who would be willing to give it a try!

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Friday, June 05, 2009

Reader's Embroidery: Dormition Icon in Silk and Gold

 
This ecclesiastical embroidery piece is an icon of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, from the Eastern Orthodox tradition. Lynn, who is an iconographer, has taken to embroidering icons lately, and this one is gorgeous!

You will probably be amazed to know that this is Lynn's first attempt with goldwork!

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


The Theotokos (Blessed Virgin) was embroidered separately, then appliquéd to the veleveteen background, onto which the text and flowers are directly stitched. The finished embroidery measures 12" x 21".

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


The figure is worked in silk shading techniques, following the traditional color schemes and definition found in icons. The cloth on which the figure rests is worked in Or Nué and the gold background is made up of couched double gold threads.

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


The halo or nimbus is also couched gold - very neatly and well done, I'd say! The head of the Virgin rests on a very life-like pillow. You can also see here the neat stitching in red, and a close-up of the white stripes on the background cloth.

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


In iconography, the art is more two-dimensional. Unlike the realistic shading found in later art (Medieval, Renaissance, and beyond), the Byzantine art and icons tend to look flatter. This was done on purpose, to concentrate the viewer's thoughts on what the art is expressing, rather than on the art itself. (This is also one of the reasons why most iconographers in early history were anonymous, and the same holds true for church art in the West, even into the medieval era just before the Renaissance.) I think this icon tradition is reflected really well here at the base of the gown. It's just realistic enough to give the impression the artist wants to give, but not overly detailed - perfect shading for an icon.

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


Here are the hands, folded in repose. I wanted actually to draw your attention to the very fine gold line around the red robe. A nice touch!

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


Lilies are a symbol of the Virgin. These were stitched directly onto the velveteen background, along with the text:

Dormition of the Virgin Mary Embroidered in Silk and Gold


Isn't this piece beautifully done? I think it's absolutely gorgeous. And to think that it is a "first attempt" at goldwork is astounding!

Thanks, Lynn, for sending the photo! Congratulations on a beautiful piece of art!

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Thursday, April 16, 2009

Interesting Goldwork Voided Butterfly by Jane Zimmerman

 
If you like goldwork embroidery and you like butterflies, this project might be just up your alley!

Jane Zimmerman has a really beautiful goldwork project featured on her "what's new" page: a goldwork butterfly, only the butterfly is voided, and the goldwork surrounds it.

Goldwork Butterfly by Jane Zimmerman


Jane describes the technique used to create this piece and offers an instructional booklet for it, too, if you want to check it out.

I love the circular patterns in the passing thread - really stunning!

From what I understand, this is a "limited offering," so the instructional booklet won't be available for long.

It's fun to squiz through Jane's website - there are some really beautiful projects on there, and lots of fun pictures to look at! If you have a chance, give her a visit!

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Saturday, March 28, 2009

On Embroidery Kits - Some Rambling

 
Do you use embroidery kits? The answer to this question seems to divide embroiderers into different groupings: 1. The no-never types; 2. The yes-always types; 3. The yes-but-only-selectively types. Within these categories, there are different mentalities about kits. There are, for example, the no-nevers-on-principle, who believe that kits stunt the creative process. Then there are the no-nevers-on-opportunity, who don't want to pay for kits. Then there are the no-nevers-whatsakit?, who have really never considered kits, and don't care either way about them. And the list could go on....

I belong to the 3rd category - yes, but selectively.

I have a couple embroidery kits on hand that I want to work, and I'll show some of them to you here.

Needlepainting kit from Tanja Berlin: Iris


My favorite kits so far in my needlework life have been Tanja Berlin's needlepainting kits. Through them, I've learned a lot about needlepainting! I haven't worked a kit in ages, but I've got a few of hers in my stash, awaiting the day, specifically the squirrel and a bird or two...

Summer Harvest Stumpwork Kit from Country Bumpkin


Country Bumpkin needlework kits are also among my favorites. One of my Christmas gifts this year was an order from Country Bumpkin, and included in that were two kits: a little "Summer Harvest" stumpwork kit and a needlepainting kit called "True Love" that I find downright hilarious and that I'm planning to use as a future wedding gift.

True Love Needlepainting Kit from Country Bumpkin


The differences between Tanja Berlin's kits and Country Bumpkin's kits are notable. I thought I'd point some of the differences out to you, in case you're looking for a new project to work or a new technique to learn and are thinking about starting with a kit.

Country Bumpkin Needlework Kits:

1. Country Bumpkin relies upon your owning the magazine in which the project is featured. Kits are an off-shoot of their magazine, Inspirations. The purpose of CB kits is simply convenience: the kit includes all the supplies you need to complete a project featured in one of their magazines, but it doesn't include the design or the instructions. It is simply a materials kit. If you don't subscribe to the magazine, you have the option, when you purchase the kit, of purchasing the copy that coincides with the kit. The articles in the magazine have very detailed stitch instructions, diagrams, up-close pictures, and so forth. Each magazine has many beautiful projects in it, so when you buy one magazine, you're actually getting excellent instruction on many projects, not to mention all the other interesting stitching tidbits and stories. It's a great magazine!

2. The kits (in my experience) always have PLENTY of fibers to work the project. I've never felt as if I would run out of the required thread. Whole skeins and spools of most threads are included, rather than partial skeins or bits of threads. Also, any notions required in the project are also included (buttons and so forth), as well as supplies such as interfacing, wire, etc. In short, all materials! (Note: some blanket kits do not include the fabric backing; this is always noted in the kit contents.)

3. The design is not transferred onto the ground fabric. This is something you have to do, using the design in the magazine. I was a little surprised by this at first, because when I am working from a kit, I do like to launch right in (and forego the pre-work of transferring, which is not my favorite part of a project!). However, it makes sense. Country Bumpkin's first focus is their magazine. If they sold kits with instructions and designs, it would be somewhat of a conflict of interest! On the bright side, if you are out to really learn embroidery, then knowing the ins and outs of transferring designs is an essential part of the process, so it's good for the learning curve!

4. Country Bumpkin kits ship from Australia. For those of us in the States, anything we save in exchange rates is definitely eaten up in shipping. In this regard, the kits are somewhat expensive... and shipping tends to be a bit slow. But, if you want the kits, that's part of the package!

Tanja Berlin's kits:

1. Tanja's kits come with everything you need to complete the project: instructions, design, colored photo of finished project, all diagrams, detailed stitching instructions and troubleshooting guide, all fibers, fabric, needles. She also has the option on her website of on-going consultation for stitchers working her kits, so if you run into a trouble spot, you can contact Tanja and she'll help you through it.

2. Tanja's kits contain just the amount of fibers you will need to complete the project, with a little leftover. So you don't normally get full skeins of floss or spools of threads. She organizes the threads on a color card, with each color number marked clearly next to the thread.

3. In her surface embroidery kits, the designs are already transferred on the fabric for you.

4. Tanja is located in Canada. Depending on the exchange rate (which has fluctuated quite a bit in the last couple years), if you're in the US, the kits may be slightly more expensive or slightly less expensive than the actual listing on her site. Shipping, too, is somewhat pricey, but she has lots of shipping options, so you can choose the least expensive one (though you'll probably wait a little longer for your order). Tanja ships very quickly if she is not out of town teaching (she always leaves a notice on her website if she is out of town, and tells you exactly when she'll be back...)

So those are the two kinds of kits that I have primarily indulged in over the years.

Other Types of Embroidery Kits

Roseworks Designs Embroidery Kits


I've also worked kits from Roseworks Designs. They're located in South Africa, and have some pretty kits available through retailers or ordered directly through Roseworks Designs. Their kits include fabric with the design on it, detailed stitching instructions, and a color key for Anchor and DMC colors, but they don't always include the threads. These kits were more widely available in the US, but now I can only find one online retail shop that sells them here. The other shops I knew of that sold them have since gone out of business.

Another type of kit that I've purchased but haven't worked is an Anchor Fleur de Lys teacloth. Margaret Cobleigh, however, persevered through the finish of the same kit, and graciously wrote up a whole document on how she altered the kit to make it more interesting. To see what these kits look like, you can check out her Spring Teacloth and her Strawberry Teacloth here on Needle'nThread. I have never quite gotten back to the Spring Teacloth. It has just never "grabbed" me, though I think Margaret did an absolutely stunning job on hers!

Embroidery Kits I would Like to Work

Now, there are other kits offered out there that I'm interested in, but have not had the opportunity to try.

Alison Cole's Stumpwork & Goldwork Design, Illuminated Floral


First, Alison Cole's kits. One of these days, I may indulge in a couple of those, including her Illuminated Floral stumpwork and goldwork kit (which I've mentioned before) and some of her mini Or Nué kits (the frog, gecko, and strawberry, to be precise). Though I haven't worked her kits, I assume they come with excellent instructions - her books are certainly excellent.

Thistle Threads Website


Then, there's Tricia Wilson-Nguyen, the lady behind Thistle Threads, known for her expertise in historical needlework and her current work on the Plimoth Plantation 17th-century embroidered jacket. Did you know she offers kits? They're mostly of an historical nature, and some are quite elaborate. Besides her exquisite licensed museum adaptations (part of the proceeds go towards the museums that host the original studied object), Tricia offers some limited edition kits that are neat, and many "regular" kits that are also enticing. The kits that I'm really interested in of hers are a bit out of my range, but it's inspiring to look at them, nonetheless!

Trish Burr is also working on putting together some kits, and if and when that happens, those will definitely be something I'm interested in. Her books are greatly instructive, so I'm sure her kits will be, too.

My Embroidery Kit Philosophy is pretty much this: A kit can be an excellent way to learn or polish an embroidery technique. If the kit appeals to me in some way, I am not adverse to working a kit, and actually can find great pleasure and freedom in working one. I like buying kits from specific designers (as opposed to mass-produced commercial kits such as those found on the needlework aisles in chain stores). It's a lot like making the effort to shop at a local needlework shop. Embroidery designers, writers, instructors, etc., keep the art of needlework alive - and many of them rely upon their designing and teaching for their livelihood. I don't mind supporting that at all! (when I can afford to!)

That's pretty much the way I look at kits. Do you like kits? Why or why not? Do you have favorite kit designers that you would recommend? In general, what are your experiences with kits? Please share!

Now, having said all that, I bet you think I'm heading off to get started on one of those kits. Nope - I've got "real" work (school work) to do all weekend long! No needlework for me this weekend (unless I can sneak in a wee session here and there when no one's looking!)

Have a great weekend!

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Monday, March 23, 2009

Back to the Goldwork Iris and Shading

 
We haven't visited the goldwork iris in a while, and I left everyone hanging with the last post about it, when I asked what you thought I would do for embroidery thread! I never did answer that question, so now I will bat around the ideas in my head about this piece.

First, I'll admit right upfront that I haven't given this little piece of goldwork embroidery a chance! I have worked on it in fits and starts, usually in 15-minute (or shorter) increments.

The 15-minute sessions are great when you have a project set up and you know exactly where you are going with it. I have found that, in such cases, short sessions are useful in making progress. The drawbacks to short embroidery sessions like that, though, are that you can't always get a good rhythm going with your stitching, and you can't make enough progress to know exactly whether or not something is working out, if you are "feeling your way through" a project in the first place.

And that's kind of my situation with the goldwork iris.

This is as much as I've progressed on the project:

Goldwork Iris: Shading in Goldwork Or Nué


I really only have three full threads couched. I went with the Soie d'Alger because that's the silk thread I had on hand in the right colors, but of course, the whole time I was stitching, I was bemoaning the fact that I didn't have the silk I wanted! However, I made a firm resolution that I would not buy anymore threads until the middle of April, and I am sticking to that! So I told myself the Soie d'Alger would work for this test piece.

And it does work! It's fine. It's not necessarily what I would have preferred, but it's a good thread, and it does work.

I received a lot of good advice on the project from other stitchers who have tried this technique, and I'm really grateful for that! I wish I hadn't started stitching already when some of the advice came in. For example, I wish I hadn't made so much of the outline (especially the dark green) so solid, and had left some space for the gold to show through. I did towards the top, but now I'm dissatisfied with that, because it is inconsistent with the rest.

Goldwork Iris: Shading in Goldwork Or Nué


There's not enough stitching done here to really tell how it will look, and I'm more and more convinced that, with this technique, the whole picture develops slowly and you really need to give it a chance! So I haven't given up on it - I need to make greater progress to see how things are going to go with this piece.

Goldwork Iris: Shading in Goldwork Or Nué


There's one part of the design so far that I really do like about it, and that's the purple. In fact, I like the purple so much that I'm completely glad I didn't order the Piper's silk (or TESS), or didn't pick a not-quite-right color.

So, right now, that's where I am on this project. Truth to tell, I've put it away for a little bit - it's packaged up, threads and all, until I can devote some serious time to it. While it sat among my present embroidery tasks, I felt pretty anxious about it. Better to put it away for a little bit, until I can devote more time to it!

I am still plugging away on my whitework sampler - the cutwork section has a few bars worked in, and that's about all I got done with needle and thread this past weekend!

And now, as I'm in the midst of a very busy time at school, it looks as if it'll be a little while before I can get back to some serious stitching! I'll have to rely on 15 minutes of whitework here and there if I want to make any progress.

I hope you all had a chance to get in some stitching this past weekend and that the week promises some good opportunities to you for the same!

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Sunday, March 15, 2009

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Reader's Work

 
The purpose of today's article is both instructional and inspirational! I usually post reader's embroidery projects because I find them particularly interesting or inspirational, and I think it's nice to see what others out there are doing with their needles and thread. Here's a beautiful metal-thread embroidery project which features satin stitching...

Christiana embroidered this fleur-de-lis in satin stitch, using #1 silver Jap. The design she's using is from Tanja Berlin - one of the elements on her goldwork sampler. But Christi says she doesn't like filling with purl, so she wanted to try satin stitching instead, using the #1 silver Jap, which is a very fine metal thread.

She chose a blue silk ground, which sets off the silver beautifully.

In communicating over this project, we sent pictures back and forth and discussed the methods and so forth, and she took notes on what she was doing, which she subsequently scanned and sent along, too. So what I've done here is put together her project so that you can see how she did it, and maybe pick up some tips and tricks along the way.

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


Christi was working on her goldwork feather and the fleur-de-lis at the same time, so both projects were set up on a slate frame. Notice that the slate frame is dressed with linen, then the ground fabric (blue silk in this case) is basted onto the linen, so that she is working through both the linen and the silk. This is normal for most ecclesiastical work - and goldwork in general - that, behind the ground fabric, there is another layer of supporting fabric. Specifically, in ecclesiastical work, it is typical to set up a slate frame with a piece of linen, then mount the finer ground fabric on the linen. Often, when several small motifs are being worked, they'll be set up on one frame to save time and linen.

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


She used tissue paper to tansfer the design, tracing the design onto the tissue paper then using dark blue thread to stitch over the design to transfer the pattern. Using the dark blue (same color, more or less) as the ground fabric eliminates problems later, if the tacking threads can't all be removed. They aren't as noticeable!

For the top part of the fleur-de-lis, thin felt is used to pad the shapes. Christi stitched over the felt with a fine white thread to secure the felt to the fabric. This method of securing the felt differs from person to person and technique to technique. When I secure felt, I generally stitch very tiny stitches along the outside of the felt. This causes the felt to stand up a bit in the middle. Stitching over the felt as Christi has done helps minimize the height of the felt, which is what she wanted.

Instead of using felt on the arms of the fleur-de-lis, which are narrow and spindly, she discovered something: when removing the tissue paper from transferring the pattern, she noticed that the tacking threads held the tissue paper pretty firmly in place on the arms of the fleur-de-lis. She wanted the arms to be less padded than the top part of the design, and she thought that perhaps the tissue paper would serve to barely lift the thread off the fabric, to provide a white background behind the silver, and to give her a sharp edge for satin stitching. Maybe she didn't have to use felt on the arms after all, and this could save her a step!

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


And that's what she did - she left the tissue paper from the transfer on the pattern and stitched over it. She said it worked really well and it's a technique she'll use again. You can see in the photo above the tissue paper still attached to the fabric...

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


Here are the two arms and the base completed. Funny how the cameral makes the threads look more gold than silver... but really, it's silver!

Now, with the base of the design, Christi said she had some problems deciding how to stitch it, and here are her notes on the subject. You can click on them to see a larger version.

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


When satin stitching different shapes, it's important to take into consideration the length the stitches will cover in the longer parts of the shape. Stitches that are too long can loosen over time. Also, they don't always lie well. So this was good thinking, to split up the design!

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


You can see here the base of the design. I think it looks good, but I understand why it would have been better to split the design into three, instead of two, stitching areas.

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


Satin stitching around curves can be tricky, and one of the most common problems is keeping "perfect" stitch direction. Christi didn't like her shifting stitch direction in the areas marked, so she noted that for future improvement. Um.... well, the truth is, we always look at our own work more critically. I think this looks good.

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


After finishing the satin stitching, she outlined the main part of the design with silver pearl purl.

Satin Stitching with Metal Threads: Fleur-de-lis in silver thread on blue silk ground


And here's the finished piece - really beautiful!

Thanks, Christi, for sending the pictures along and the explanation of work!

I hope you enjoyed seeing this project, and that you picked up some ideas from her experiences working it!

Feel free to ask any questions...

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Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Goldwork Iris & Threads...

 
Last time I mentioned the goldwork iris project, I was befuddled over what threads to use for couching. I went out to the studio, then, and decided to end my befuddlement.

I went through my selection of silk threads to see if I had anything I'd like better to use as the colored couching threads. While out there, I also dug through all my other threads, and happened upon - shock! horror! - some Sulky machine embroidery threads.

So I brought everything I found inside to the iris to do some pondering.

I pondered thus:

Goldwork Iris Project - thread selection


I like the fineness of TESS silk. This is Helen Stevens's silk thread line, made by the same folks who make Piper's Silk. But alas, as you may already be guessing...

Goldwork Iris Project - thread selection


... I don't much care for the colors I have on hand. The greens are ok - in fact, I like them! But the purples leave a lot to be desired, as does the closest color I came to "coral."

Goldwork Iris Project - thread selection


Pondering further, just for the fun of it, I lined up the Sulky threads. Oh - you have to admit - the colors are really nice! But something.... something.... just grates against the thought of using a polyester machine embroidery thread. *Sigh* Am I a fiber snob? I don't think that's exactly it. It's more a matter of the combination. Silk and gold just belong together!

Goldwork Iris Project - thread selection


But wow. I do like the colors. I like the purples especially...

I furthered my pondering by stitching over the gold with all three threads, the Soie d'Alger I originally started with, the TESS silk, and the Sulky machine embroidery thread.

Goldwork Iris Project - thread selection


The Soie d'Alger is on the left, followed by the TESS in the middle, and the Sulky on the end.

My heart longéd for the right colors in the TESS! I love the look of that fine, flat silk over the gold! And it stitches well over the gold - very nicely! And the fineness of the thread is most excellent for the couching of the gold, varying the distance between the stitches and so forth.

Alas and alack, without the right colors, though, I knew I would not be happy.

I didn't much like stitching with the Sulky threads. I sort of knew I wouldn't. It looked ok, but not that great.

What do you suppose my conclusion was?

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Thursday, March 05, 2009

15 Minutes: Goldwork Embroidery with Color

 
After setting up the goldwork iris, I began embroidering it in one 15-minute needle and thread session. The first embroidery session was, admittedly, a wash...

When beginning a needlework project - and this is true of any type of needlework for me, whether surface embroidery, counted cross stitch, goldwork, drawn thread work, crochet, even sewing - I find that my initial moments with the project are always the most important. In the first minutes of actually working with needle and thread, I get a real sense of what the project is going to be about. No more theory, no more vague picture in my head - now I know what must be done to make the project develop toward the picture which I imagined for it.

It's also in the first session of stitching that I tend to make mistakes while I feel the project out.

With the goldwork iris, I realized a few things right off the bat.

Goldwork Iris


Here are the supplies I initially wanted to start with: #5 smooth passing thread (2% gold), Tire silk for couching the gold areas, and the darkest green soie d'alger, which would make up the first colored stitches.

Goldwork Iris


Because this was a 15-minute session, I set the timer before cutting threads and threading needles.

Goldwork Iris


I began couching the gold in the lower left corner, working up toward the swirly base of the iris. This looks positively terrible! Anyway, Tire silk is extremely fine thread. I do like it for couching the gold, but...

Goldwork Iris


... compared to the soie d'alger, it is really too fine. I think I'd rather use a thread closer to the size of the soie d'alger. Otherwise, I'm afraid that, down the road, I'll have a warping problem with the piece - the colored threads will take up more space over the gold and push the design out.

Goldwork Iris


Another thing I didn't like: in my first section of dark green over the outline, the green silk is bulging here and there. Soie d'alger is a 2-ply twisted thread, much like DMC cotton. As the thread works in and out of the fabric, the twist can become tighter or looser, and the plies can lay on top of each other (twisting over each other) just as the stitch is settled into its place. In most surface embroidery techniques, this isn't really a problem. It's the natural way the thread works. But in this technique, I don't want any extra bulges! I'll need to pay closer attention to that. A laying tool will help, but... I don't really want to use one!

I'm thinking about going back through my threads to see if I might have some flat silk that I can use instead. I do have a collection of Helen Stevens's TESS, but I don't know if it includes any purples.

Goldwork Iris


In any case, this is the 15 minute session! Whoo-hoo! Doesn't seem like much, does it? I don't like the "angular" look of the gold, and I don't like the stitching.

Goldwork Iris


So guess what I did the next time I had 15 minutes? Right! I'm starting again, with some wiser (hopefully!) decisions. If I can switch to flat silk, I'll continue to work with the Tire thread for couching the gold. If I don't have suitable colors in the flat silks, I'll probably switch my gold couching thread to something thicker - maybe soie 100/3.

I'm pretty sure, so far, that Or Nué is something you have to give a chance. One gold thread couched isn't going to reveal impressive results. Still. I want to make some changes before going any further!

Any advice or suggestions?

For more information on different silk threads, you'll find a few articles that compare different types of silks under Tips and Tricks for Hand Embroidery.

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Tuesday, March 03, 2009

Goldwork Iris Underway

 
Is there a better combination in the world of needlearts than goldwork and silk? You'd have to twist my arm to make me believe there is! I'm a sucker for both of them - but in combination, I'm completely twitterpated! Every time I get into a goldwork project, I find I have tunnel vision - I spend the day looking forward to getting back to the project! Well, I've recently set up a small goldwork project, and here's the beginning of it...

The gold in this goldwork project will be gold passing thread. If you're not familiar with what gold passing thread is, feel free to look at a few previous articles: gold passing thread up close, the Agnus Dei project, the golden pomegranate, or my goldwork Christmas ornament from this past Christmas - all of them make liberal use of gold passing thread.

In this technique, which is called Or Nué, the gold passing thread will be couched with colored silk to form a picture. I've recently run a couple articles on Or Nué techniques (Margaret's goldwork flower and Christiana's goldwork peacock feather) if you want to get more of a sense of what the technique is all about.

Here, I'll be going step-by-step through the process of Or Nué embroidery, and I'll tell you up-front, I've only worked the technique a few times, on simple projects. This little iris is more complicated than any Or Nué I've done before, and I will undoubtedly be troubleshooting along the way!

I'm off to a bad start, anyway. Let me show you what I mean...

Goldwork Iris


Here's the design, traced onto tissue paper. It's from 4000 Flower & Plant Motifs: A Sourcebook by McCallum - an excellent book for little motifs perfect for embroidery. I modified the design slightly.

Goldwork Iris


After laying in some (really sloppy!) color using prismacolors and centering up the design, I added in that swashy looking line, because I'm thinking I'll work the gold thread in some other pattern besides just a straight line. I don't think this particular swash is going to be my gold thread guide, though....

Goldwork Iris


The next thing to do was to consider colors of silk. Actually, the next thing was to consider TYPES of silk. I wanted a fine thread, to ensure that I didn't end up with too much bulk over the gold threads, which could distort and push them out if I didn't space them correctly. It was at this point that I noticed that none of my finer threads were available in the same colors - or in any extent of color - compared to my rather haphazard collection of Soie d'Alger. Now, Soie d'Alger is my favorite thread for needle painting (long and short stitch - like this needlepainted iris, which is actually worked in DMC cotton). I found as I was planning out this goldwork project that I was thinking too much in terms of needlepainting. This may pose a problem later - we'll see!

Goldwork Iris


Anyway, I had a good collection of purples and greens in the Soie d'Alger, so that's what I decided to go with.

Goldwork Iris


I selected a palette. I think these are way too many shades of color!! (And I know you're probably wondering about that coral. So am I!)

Goldwork Iris


I'll probably end up using these two purples...

Goldwork Iris


... and these two greens predominantly.

Goldwork Iris


So, colors selected and pattern more or less messily prepared, I headed to my light box to transfer the pattern onto the fabric.

And here comes Mistake #1:

Goldwork Iris


I outlined in black, using a micron art pen. Oh dear. It didn't occur to me until later that I really don't want those harsh black lines on the surface of the fabric. I know that there will be some space between the gold threads - not a lot of space, but some, nonetheless. I don't want any vague black outline peeking through...

Goldwork Iris


And this could be Mistake #2, but I don't know yet. I used prismacolors (soft lead colored pencils) to lay the color in on my fabric. Normally, this would be done with watercolor paints, but .... mine are packed away, and I was over-eager. I tend to think it'll be ok.

Regarding the black line, I'm planning on couching stitches long that black line, so I'm hoping they will be sufficient cover up. We will see!

After I finished transferring the design, I mounted the linen on an Evertite Frame, which have fast become my favorite frames. (I don't have a slate frame that's small enough for this project). Now, my next step is to prepare all my supplies and put everything together in one basket for easy access. Then, I'll set up my Needlework System 4 stand with the frame in it, and have that ready for those 15 minute moments when I can take a few stitches during the week!

So that's my current colored project! I'm still working on the whitework sampler, though not regularly. I'll be dividing up a few days a week for whitework, a few days a week for goldwork now. I did finish my miniature embroidery piece, and will show you some photos of that tomorrow.

What are you up to? Do you have any projects going? Are you blogging progress on any projects? Feel free to share a link to your blog, flickr account, etc., below, so that we can see what you're up to, too!

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Sunday, March 01, 2009

Reader's Embroidery: Goldwork Peacock Feather!

 
Here's a bit of goldwork done by Christiana - a peacock feather... it's really beautiful and speaks for itself...

The project is a type of goldwork called Or Nue´ in which colored threads are used to couch gold passing thread to form a picture. The gold that isn't couched in color is couched with regular gold couching thread. Christi worked the design from a grid, rather than on a painted surface, using the lines of the gold to form the "grid" for the picture. I believe the original design was one by Michael Cook, who made it for weaving.

Goldwork Peacock Feather


Here's the piece in progress. You can see the grid on the left. Working over the gold threads, the grid got a bit "squished" so that the feather ended up a bit shorter and wider - but it doesn't in any way diminish the beauty of the piece!

Goldwork Peacock Feather


Here it is! Isn't it amazing? I think it's really beautiful! The "hairy" threads on the end still need to be plunged...

Goldwork Peacock Feather


This is the design the threads made on the back of the fabric. Neat, eh?

Goldwork Peacock Feather


Here you can see a distance shot of the feather, set up on a slate frame with another project (a fleur de lys worked in Japanese silver #1, on a blue background - more on it later!).

I really love this piece, and it, and Margaret's Or Nue´ flower, have done gone and inspired me! I set up an Or Nue´ project this weekend between bouts of company (it's the only embroidery-related thing I accomplished!) I'll chronicle my progress on it, and hopefully be able to share some tips and tricks as I go along. You can learn from my mistakes, for I'm sure to make some!!!!

Thanks, Christiana, for sending along the photos! Congratulations on finishing a really beautiful project!

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Friday, February 06, 2009

Another Goldwork Thread: Gimp Cord

 
Another goldwork thread I ordered recently that struck my fancy is "gimp." Yes, you're right! Like flatworm, it has a weird name!

Gimp is a goldwork cord. I can't bring myself to call it a thread - it's pretty large! It fits in the goldwork category because it is metal; it's made up of a thread core that is wound with gold wire. I'll show you the anatomy of gimp cord in a bit, but for starters, let's look at it and then compare it to another twisted goldwork thread.

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


Now, if you like goldwork, when you take a look at gimp cord, you won't be able to help liking it, too! It's beatiful. It's heavy and rich, a beautiful three-ply cord. Unlike other goldwork threads, there isn't much "sparkle" to it. Gimp gleams. It almost has a matte-like look to it.

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


When you look at it up close, you can see that it's made out of some kind of wrapping that seems to divide a bit. The camera really helps here - to the un-aided eye, the cord simply looks golden.

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


Compared to gold twist, gimp suddenly doesn't look as "metal" looking. The gold twist - also a three-ply twisted goldwork thread - reflects the light differently, because it's made differently.

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


Size-wise, this is a #6 (so, relatively large) twist in the front, with the gimp behind it. Gimp is bigger, and it is more tightly twisted.

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


If you measure them under a ruler, you can see that gimp is practically an eighth of an inch wide, compared to the twist, which is certainly less than half that wide.

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


When you buy gimp, it comes with the edges taped or clamped, for a Very Good Reason. Because of the tight twist, once the ends are unbound, the whole cord very quickly starts to unwind. To solve this, bind the cord where you plan to cut it, and leave the ends bound until it's sewn onto the fabric! Anyway, for the photo above, I unbound the end before I realized what would happen, and the gimp began to furiously untwist. I caught it before it went too far - about three inches - but still, three inches is a lot, when you're talking about a thread that costs $18 / yard... That's $1.50-worth of unwinding. I learned my lesson!

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


This is the fascinating thing about gimp cord. It doesn't look as metal-like, but it is truly just as much a metal thread as smooth passing or twist. You see, twist, is made up of what looks like three strands of smooth passing twisted together. Smooth passing is made from a core (cotton or other fiber) wound with a wire that is wide and flat, kind of more like a very tiny tape of gold. Gimp cord is made with a core of threads, around which is wound teeny tiny gold wires - they're about the size of a hair. Three of the wires are grouped together and wrapped around the core. If you pull on the wire end, the core will unwrap (just as it does with passing thread) but the gold that comes off is entirely different stuff!

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


It was difficult to get a decent photo of them, but there they are. Three gold wires! WOW - those tiny wires are the rich coating that makes gimp cord so gorgeous! Amazing!

Goldwork thread: Gimp Cord


Gimp cord is a heavier, more supple thread than twist. It is really lovely stuff!

I can see it used in a lot of ways, but primarily, I could see it outlining stitched areas on ecclesiastical work or used as thick vines or stems on goldwork pieces. I'm eager to try working with it!

Have you used gimp cord before? Or have you seen it in use? Any pointers or observations about it?? Let me know by leaving a comment below!

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Tuesday, February 03, 2009

A New Gold Thread: Flatworm

 
Shortly after Christmas, I was able to replenish some of my depleted goldwork supplies. I like 2% gold threads, and after making my goldwork and silk Christmas ornament and working on the goldwork embellished crazy quilt square, I found that I was low on 2% gold threads. With plans for a bit of ecclesiastical embroidery this year, I wanted to stock up on some (yeah, yeah - excuses! excuses!!)... Anyway, when placing my order with Tanja Berlin (which is where I buy my 2% gold threads), I purchased a couple "new" metal threads - new to me, anyway. Read on, and I'll tell you about one very attractive gold thread with a really unattractive name!

I've been curious about "flatworm" for a while. Admittedly, it's the name that caught my eye in the first place. Imagine being in the company of gold threads with names like "pearl purl" - names that evoke notions of beauty and richness - and having to own up to a name like "flatworm."

"I'd like to buy some flatworm, please..." (Bait shopping?!)

"Hey, I want to embroider something beautiful. I think I'll use flatworm." !!!

The name is curious. Once I saw the thread, though, I realized it's just a name. A rose by any other name would smell as sweet, and I suppose a gold thread named "flatworm" can still be ... a gold thread.

Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery: Flatworm


This is 2 yards of gilt #6 flatworm. Pretty, isn't it? It shines!

Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery: Flatworm


If you look at the thread close-up, the thread looks as if it is made just like smooth passing thread - it has a core of thread, around which is wrapped the gold thread. This is gilt, so it's only about 1/2% gold (as opposed to 2%). Unlike smooth passing thread, which is rounded, flatworm is flat, but it has a kind of gradual twist in it - it isn't like broad or whipped plate, either, which is completely flat, without a thread core, and is more like a metal ribbon.

Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery: Flatworm


Here, you can see the gilt flatworm (in the background) and #4 smooth passing thread (2% gold - which has a higher content, and a deeper color).

Real Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery: Flatworm


Next to each other, the threads are decidedly different. The #4 passing thread looks tiny. The flatworm looks almost leather-like and supple, as opposed to wire-like look of the smooth passing. The flatwork isn't really supple, though - it's stiffish, too. Perhaps not as stiff as the smooth passing, but pretty stiff, nonetheless.

I haven't worked with flatworm before. From what I've read about it, it's a couched thread, like smooth passing, but I'm curious about the way one would couch it. Can it be couched as a filling, in lines? Do you straighten it as you couch it? If not, how well does it sit on the fabric and actually "fill"? Is it used as a more randomly worked thread? Does it fit in with traditional goldwork techniques, or would you take a more contemporary approach to the way it is used? These are the questions that have come to my mind about this thread. I'll enjoy experimenting with it to discover some of the answers.

Have you ever used flatworm? Or have you seen it on any goldwork pieces? Do you have any ideas about how you would use it if you were going to play with it? I'd like to hear your take on this intriguing thread!

There were a few other new-to-me threads in my recent order - I can't wait to show them all to you! I'd rather be showing them to you in some kind of goldwork piece that could employ all of them, but my brain hasn't yet concocted a reasonable plan for one! When it does, I'll let you know!

If you haven't signed up for my January give-away, please take the opportunity to do so before tomorrow (Wednesday) morning at 5:00 am CST. I'll pick a winner first thing tomorrow morning! If you want to sign up, visit the original post, where you'll find the directions for signing up towards the end of the post. Thanks for participating in it!

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Hope your week's going well so far, and that you have at least a little time to enjoy some stitching!

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Friday, January 30, 2009

Or Nue: Goldwork in Color

 
Today's particular topic tends to put me into the state of Embroidery Frenzy. I always feel as if I'm singing the same song to all of you dear, patient readers! "I want to do this! ... I'm going to start that soon .... I need to start this project, that project, do this, do that!!!! To much to do, not enough time!" I'm sure, to an extent, every fanatic needleworker is in the same boat. There are so many projects I want to do - so many little tips and techniques I'd like to show you - but, regretably, so little time.

Here's one technique that I'd really love to dabble and experiment with, and convince others to try their hands at. It's called Or Nué - it's a goldwork technique involving couching gold threads with colored threads to produce a painted-like picture with a gleaming gold foundation.

This particular example of embroidery over gold threads comes again from Margaret Cobleigh, who faithfully sends me pictures of her projects so that I can drool and grumble and glow green with envy! Truthfully and seriously, she's a great source of inspiration for me and has become a great correspondent on all things embroidery-related! And, on top of it, she generously provides me with pictures of her projects for Needle'nThread, so I can pass on some neat stuff to you!

Last year, Margaret participated in a workshop that had as one of its projects this little Or Nué flower. It's a small piece, only 1.5 inches square, but it took many hours of what I think was probably rather meticulous stitching to complete it.

Or Nue Goldwork Piece stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


This is the work in progress. You can click on that photo for a larger version, so you can see it a little better. The gold thread is the same size as Japanese gold #8, and for this project, she used imitation gold. The threads used are DMC stranded cotton which have been waxed. The gold thread is wound on a wooden spool (called a koma, used in Japanese embroidery), and all the threads you see are the different colors that are used to couch the gold. You have to have the threads all working in the project at the same time, so that you can switch from one color of couching thread to the other.

The technique works this way: on the ground fabric is painted the design to be embroidered. Over that, the gold is couched. In the places the gold does not pass over the design, it is couched with gold-colored couching thread. Wherever the gold passes over the design, it is couched with colored floss. When couching with the colored floss, care is taken to space the couching stitches in such a way that the gold is not completely covered, so that it does, here and there, shine through.

Shading can be achieved in Or Nué a couple ways: you can use darker and lighter shades of color to couch the gold, or you can also vary the distance between your couching stitches. In the latter technique, to achieve a darker shading of color, your couching stitches would be closer together (often touching and covering up the gold completely). As the design moves to a lighter shade, the couching stitches move farther apart, and the thread may even be changed to a lighter color.

In this design, the shading is achieved by the color of the floss. In its finished state (below), the colors are somewhat muted. I don't know for sure, as I haven't seen the piece in person, but I think that the muted colors can be attributed to a few things: the nature of the technique, with the spacing here and there between the stitches; the fact that, next to the gold, the thread is bound to look a little muted; and, finally, the waxing of the thread probably dulls it down a little bit, too.

Or Nue Goldwork Piece stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


I think this is a beautiful little project, and beautifully stitched!

I was trying to think of a way for beginners to try Or Nué without spending a lot on real gold threads, and without having to paint a canvas. The thought occurred to me that a small, simple flower printed on fabric (you can buy sheets of fabric that pass through a bubble jet printer) would suit for a foundation to try the technique on. Then, instead of real metal threads, you could invest in one of the less expensive metallic cords put out by companies like Kreinik, and use DMC for your colored couching threads. If you're eager to see how the technique works, this would be a relatively inexpensive and accessible way to try it out!

I couple tips to keep in mind, if you do decide to pursue a testing project: gold passing thread (which is what the gold is here) is normally couched in pairs. That's how Margaret did it here. I've seen Or Nué worked over one passing thread at a time, which would allow the stitcher to achieve meticulous detail. When couching the colored threads, often the build-up of thread between the gold causes the piece to bulge as it fills out. Some books recommend a hair of a space between the gold threads - not enough to show a lot of fabric or anything. But just enough to make the colored couching threads fit comfortably. Playing with the technique a bit will give the stitcher a sense of the right spacing between the gold to avoid bulging.

Finally, if you've been hanging around Needle'nThread a while, you probably recall that I've written about this whole subject before. I've got one article in particular on Or Nué with good links and resources in it, if you're interested in reading up any further on the subject.

Well, once again, I shall leave you as I moan the same old song....

All I need is Time. Doo da doo da doo. All I need is time, time. Time is all I need....

Or maybe it's that other song...

Oh give me time, lots of time, with my Ott light up above.
Please fence me in!
Let me spend every minute on the stitching that I love.
Please fence me in!
Let me be by myself in the evenings, please!
In linen, and gold and silk threads up to my knees!
Send me off forever so I can stitch at ease...
Please fence me in!


It's really amazing to me that I'm about to hit the "publish" button and make such an utter fool of myself......... Seriously, though. I suppose we do what we can, when we can. Thank goodness for weekends!

Have a Happy Friday! May you find plenty of time on the weekend to enjoy some stitching!

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Thursday, January 29, 2009

Free Hand Embroidery Design: Motif Suitable for Goldwork

 
Here's another free hand embroidery pattern - a motif suitable for goldwork or any kind of surface embroidery, really. I've been having fun playing with repeat patterns in Inkscape, and this is one of the ones I was fiddling with, so I thought I'd share it with you.

This design is originally from an old church embroidery book that's now in the free domain. The book is called Church Vestments by Anastasia Dolby, and it's available on Google books. She's the same one who wrote Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern, where I found this embroidery design and cleaned it up.

This little design in the book is actually a black and white line drawing that's rather small. I took a screen shot of it and exported it into Inkscape, where I enlarged it then traced it. The original was really unsymmetrical, with each swashy leaf area being completely different from the other - fat arms on the scollies, skinny arms on the scrollies, etc. So I tried evening it up a bit, just in one quarter, and then I repeated the quarter, mirroring it around the image. I like Inkscape!

Here's the embroidery design. You can click on it for a larger image.

Free Hand Embroidery Design suitable for goldwrk or any surface embroidery technique


And here's a link to the same design in PDF format:

Hand Embroidery Design suitable for goldwork or other surface embroidery

Now, to speak of the design itself, I'd really like to work this one. Do you have so many ideas rattling around in your head, but absolutely no time to execute them? That's the situation I'm in right now! Anyway, I'd love to do the arms of the design in gold passing thread. The rest of it, I haven't really thought about...

I hope you like the design as much as I do!

Enjoy!

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Sunday, January 25, 2009

CQMag Online - Volume 8, Issue 1 Available Now

 
Just a quick note to let you know that Volume 8, Issue 1 of CQMag Online is out now - it's got a huge line up of really good articles! Among them, yep, you'll find the (really insanely long) article I wrote on goldwork and crazy quilting. If you're not up to reading the whole thing, you can scroll down to the last photo for the complete block. Click on it for a larger version....

Enjoy!

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Reader's Embroidery: Goldwork Pansy

 
You know I like goldwork and silk shading - they're possibly my favorite embroidery techniques - but ... wow... this piece makes everything I've done with goldwork look rather dull. It's like the sparkling city cousin that the country mouse can't hold a candle to! This bright splash of color and gold was an exercise in creative goldwork from a Royal School of Needlework course that Margaret took back in 2007.

The project is worked on a background of silk dupoini woven in purple and red. Predominantly, the purple shows up, but you can see the reddish highlights in the photo. It's a gorgeous fabric!

Goldwork and silk shading pansy from Royal School of Needlework course, stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


I think the whole piece is beautiful, but the part of the piece that intrigues me the most is the bold leaf on the lower left, which is made out of gold kid leather. Rather than try to explain it myself, here's Margaret's description of the technique:
What was interesting was that we had a basic outline for the leaf and a piece of leather that was larger than the outline (at least at the top). Starting at the bottom we tacked down the leather to hold it in place. Then at the top we manipulated the oversized piece to fit within the design lines. This let us create the veins. So, everyone's leaf was different, of course.

I love the leaf, with it's bulging gold veins - and my hat's off to anyone who would stitch it and not scream before it was over! Yeeeeesh. I don't particluarly like stitching kid leather, but I'd like it even less if I had to manipulate it and squeeze it into an area! I think it turned out so pretty, though, that it's sort of tempting to want to try something similar.

Here's the finished project, framed up:

Goldwork and silk shading pansy from Royal School of Needlework course, stitched by Margaret Cobleigh


Isn't it gorgeous?

Thanks, Margaret, for sending the photos! Margaret, by the way, is the one who designed the Golden Pomegranate project I stitched last fall.

When Margaret sent me these photos, I came to the realization of something that I find rather funny, and I'd love to hear what others have to say about the same subject! It went like this: Margaret sent me photos of her frame jobs on three gorgeous pieces of embroidery: the Golden Pomegranate (hers is matted in greens, with a gold frame), her goldwork rose, and this goldwork project featured here. When I saw the three framed, I thought, "WOW - wouldn't those make a gorgeous set to hang together on a wall??!" And that's when I realized something...

And this is what I realized: in my house, I have one tiny bird I embroidered that's framed and hung. Other than that, I don't have one finished thing that I've embroidered. Everything else I've done has been given away, or was made at the request of someone else.

Ok, wait - with the exception of my silly pillowcases and my goofy felt needlebook thingy. And, no, I don't use the pillow cases myself.

My question is this: do you retain your work, or give it away? Are you fortunate enough to have nice embroidered things around your house? I just realized how nice that would be.

But how does one remedy that? I can't exactly go snatching up the things I've given away. And I wouldn't, anyway. Deep down, I wouldn't want to. (Or wait - maybe deep down, I do want to....!)

I was thinking that a resolution of some sort could help solve this: each year, I could make at least one nice project for the house. It doesn't have to be a big project or a major deal - just one nice something to be finished and framed.

Well, now that I'm thinking along those lines, I suddenly want to make another pomegranate or grab a silk shading project and ditch the whitework sampler!

Yeah. Thanks a lot, Margaret! ;-)

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Friday, January 23, 2009

Goldwork & Silk Project: Golden Pomegranate

 
Now that Inspirations Magazine issue 61 is officially out, I wanted to share with you the finish on this goldwork and silk embroidery project that I showed you last October.

Before the photos, the background information: this project was designed by Margaret Cobleigh, who used it as a guild project to teach some silk shading and goldwork embroidery techniques. After preparing the kits for her guild, she had a couple left over, and I am ever-so-grateful that I had the opportunity to procure one!

Margaret also submitted the project to Inspirations Magazine. It's being published in issue #61, which is just out now. You can see a preview of Inspirations 61 on the Country Bumpkin website right now, and you can also see that the kit for The Golden Pomegranate is available for sale. (US readers, if you look at the kit, make sure to change the currency options to US dollars - it makes quite a bit of difference!) If you don't subscribe you Inspirations magazine, you can buy an individual copy of this issue if you want (through Country Bumpkin, and probably through some US suppliers, like Wooly Thread, for instance). If you already subscribe to Inspirations, then you know that you'll receive the complete instructions, photos, and the pattern within the magazine. If you decide to buy the kit and you don't have this issue of the magazine, you'll also need to buy the issue in order to have the instructions.

So that's how that works.

I was first attracted to the pomegranate design when Margaret sent me a photo to show me what she had designed, with the understanding that I couldn't publish the photo, as she was submitting the project to Country Bumpkin. Well, I was besotted! I love everything about this design - I love the colors (the reds are fantastic, and the greens are perfect), I love the goldwork, I love the way the goldwork is arranged and the variety of goldwork techniques, I love (LOVE) the trellis center on the pomegranate, with the beads and spangles... well. Like I said, when I first saw the photo of the project, I was besotted.

Another point that I liked about it - it's not a huge project. It's small (about 6" x 6", I think), so it's manageable in a reasonable amount of time. Margaret's instructions are crystal clear and perfect for someone who wants to try goldwork for the first time. The project is interesting and varied enough for seasoned goldworkers, too.

Anyway, I was happy to get one of Margaret's "leftover" kits... and I started to work on the pomegranate pretty quickly. All told, it didn't take 3 weeks (maximum) to complete it. Keep in mind, that's stitching in the evenings and a bit on weekends - I have a full time job and a life, so I wasn't stitching day in and day out! It was a nice, pleasurable, non-pressured stitching situation.

I had decided before I embarked on the project that I would make it as a gift for my niece, who was married in the middle of November. The pomegranate has been a symbol for ages upon ages of new life - so I thought it an appropriate gift.

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


I like angle shots - this isn't perhaps the best angle shot, but one of my favorite elements of the design is the pomegranate "crown" filled with chip work.

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


Here's the pomegranate itself. I love the fact that the stitching is shaded with the understanding of a light source from the top left. Notice how the pomegranate, on the top left, is lighter, and on the bottom right side, the top edge is also lighter? The top left leaf is couched in a lighter green as well. Nice, isn't it?

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


The trellis interior is really my favorite part. I love the pomegranate seeds (beads), and I'm a sucker for trellis couching. I think it's a beautiful interpretation.

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


The only part that I had real difficulty with was the vein on the leaves. I didn't remember until after I couched the pearl purl on that it was supposed to be wavy. So I pinched it into a little wave, but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the leaves on the prototype in the magazine!

The Golden Pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh, stitched by me


Finally, here's the frame job. I had it framed in a custom frame, with all archival materials... the frame is slightly over 11 inches square. It's black with a gold crackle (in tiny veins) working through it, but that doesn't show up so well in the photo. It's triple matted, in green, then gold, then a velvet red mat. The triple matting holds the glass well away from the raised gold and the beads.

I was so happy with the way the project turned out that I was loathe to part with it! Apparently the bride loved it, though, so I'm glad did!

And thus ends the story of The Golden Pomegranate.

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Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square: Several Photos

 
Today, I was going to tell you about embroidery scissors. Good embroidery scissors. (Did I ever tell you how much I love embroidery scissors?) But I'll save that for tomorrow. Today, you get Pictures!! Actually, I was flipping through some of my photos from the goldwork / quilt square project, and I started thinking I may as well show some with "real" seam treatments.

I've gotten a bunch of e-mails - thank you! - from crazy quilters who have said not to worry about not crossing over all the seams, and that often, only one half of a seam is treated, when lace or ribbon is used, etc. Thanks for your encouragement! As one pro crazy quilter commented, "Crossing the seams is not what typifies crazy quilting anymore. Unique and beautiful embellishment is!" Well, the truth is, I wasn't really kicking myself too much over it! I did cross some seams...

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Here's a herringbone stitch worked in green Trebizond over the seam. Over the herringbone stitch, I stitched long pieces of check purl (in the manner of bugle beads) in a "V" design, alternating with the herringbone. I topped the tip of the "V" in French knots with dark green silk ribbon. In retrospect, I should have used a contrast there - but I didn't want to use red, as it would look to Christmassy, and I didn't want to use blue, as it would look too "preppy," (I don't know why those colors of green and blue always make me think "preppy" - but they do!). So I stuck with the green. Anyway, I topped the tips of the herringbone with spangles held on with off-white, pearly-colored beads, some of which had shifted about. Remember: always check your beads before you take the photos!

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Oh, dear. This one doesn't go over the seam. But it's one of my favorite shots, because I like the red flower thing (which I've already shown you) and I like the ribbon in the foreground. And the blue and gold seam that stretches up the piece from here is actually my favorite seam...

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


This is tiny fly stitch over the edge of a seam. I had to work in some Gilt Sylke Twist! And the seam was just a small stretch that ran into two already heavy-looking seams. So I went with something... well, tiny. The GST is such a fine little thread, but it's so very pretty!

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Now, this seam is a bit heavy! It's worked with pearl purl in scallops, with the red spokes worked in long straight stitches, and then little sprays of check purl, and a bead and spangle treatment.

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


And here's another seam that crosses over. It's made up of half buttonhole wheels worked in red buttonhole twist, between which are worked three daisy stitches out of purl situated around a very large spangle attached with a bead.

You can find more detailed explanations of each seam treatment, along with how-to's and so forth, in my CQMag Online article, Goldwork and Crazy Quilting.

Tomorrow - scissor talk! I'll tell you a bit about scissors and show you some comparative photos....

I'm finishing up a school term this week and getting ready for the next one - so if I slip out unnoticed, it's only to do a little "real world" work!

Enjoy your Tuesday!

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Sunday, January 18, 2009

More Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square... and the P.O.M.

 
In anticipation of the CQMag online issue that is going to be available soon, I thought I'd give you another peek at my crazy quilt square embellished with goldwork...

I suppose I should be perfectly frank with you.

I didn't have anything else to write! Aaack. For the first time in a long time, I sat down at my computer this morning and .... nothing. Completely blank. I knew I should at least resort to a photo, since most people like pictures!

So here's combination of corners on the crazy quilt square:

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Square


Ever since I finished this square, I've started paying closer attention to pictures of seam treatments and so forth. And I have learned something! On the square I embellished, very few of the seams actually have the embroidery crossing the seams! My embellishment mostly floats on top of the seams. But it seems, in most of the pictures I've persued, that the majority of seam embellishments in crazy quilting actually cross over the seams.

Well, live and learn. And, of course, as a salve for my ignorance, I reminded myself of The Rule of crazy quilting: that there are no rules.

(Still, one does like to look as if one knows what one is doing....!)

If you want to see the rest of this project, you can read my article on CQMag Online, titled Goldwork and Crazy Quilting.

The P.O.M. - do you know what this stands for? It stands for "The Plan of the Month." When I was growing up, we would always hear in our household, "What's the P.O.D.?" (Plan of the Day) I suppose that must've come from my dad, who was a Navy pilot. We learned lots of stuff like that from him, but the two things I remember most clearly are "P.O.D." and the call letters Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, Delta, Echo, Foxtrot, and so forth.

Anyway, that is irrelevant. Back to the P.O.M.

One of the reasons I don't have something ready at my fingertips to write about this morning is because I do not have one project underway. Shocking, isn't it!!???!!! You cannot be more shocked than I am! I am fairly aghast at the situation! So this afternoon, I shall remedy it.

Lately, I've been doing a lot of writing on goldwork. For those of you who are not goldwork fans, please bear with me! There is a little more goldwork in the near future, but you'll be happy to know that the Next Project I'm starting (this very afternoon) is whitework. The down-side is that whitework is so difficult to photograph well!

My plan for the rest of the month is to explore some whitework techniques. I had discusssed this idea with Yvette Stanton a few weeks ago: a whitework sampler - rather random - that incorporates different techniques of whitework in it. So, Schwalm, Hardanger, Mountmellick, drawn thread, pulled thread, cutwork, needle lace, blackwork, (did I just say blackwork? on whitework? I'm so confused - but yes, I have a plan regarding that)... all kinds of techniques. And regular surface embroidery in white. Just random and exploratory and fun.

At first, I thought it might be a silly idea; then, I visited Stitchin' Fingers (where I'm a member), and I noticed they had set up a group on Pulled Thread work, which I readily joined! Within the ongoing discussion right now, someone posted a link to a blog called Pins and Needles. And there I saw that someone else was already doing something akin to what I want to do, though slightly different. You have GOT to see the work on this whitework sampler by Jocelyn! It's AMAZING. It made me realize the idea isn't so silly, after all, and I solidified my determination to do it.

I've been a little hesitant about starting the whitework, though, for a couple reasons: whitework is hard to photograph, and of course, I'd like to blog the techniques, instructions, tips, etc.; "random" can sometimes be troublesome... and "too random" can be downright frustrating, once you get into it - it seems to me that working with some kind of plan is better; I was a bit stitched out, and really bogged under with real work (school work!) the last week or so. But today, I'm ACHING to start something again; and finally, I'm waiting for a fabric order from Nordic Needle (grrrr - it's taking ten forevers!), in which I have some natural-colored (oatmeal-ish) linen in a higher count - I thought the natural linen might solve the photography probs. But I'm not waiting anymore!

Therefore, the P.O.M. begins with setting up this project this afternoon.

Further ahead, in the details of the P.O.M., you will find exciting things like editing stitch videos, filming more videos, setting up a Very Big and Exciting Project that I'll tell you about as it progresses (it's one of those "this is going to take a long time - like, months" sort of projects), and the development of other little ideas that are brewing. You might wonder how all this is to come about, given the fact that January is half way over and I work full time! Well, the fact is, I have a five day weekend coming up, and I'm determined to plan it thoroughly, so I can make the most of it!

So that's what I'm up to. What are YOU up to? Anyone have a project going on that they're blogging about? Leave a link below! If you don't have a blog, drop me a line so you can send me some photos!

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Friday, January 16, 2009

Tools for Metal Thread Embroidery

 
A few queries came in this week about the tools required to get started in goldwork or any other metal thread embroidery (one reader is particularly keen to work with copper threads...) To answer the question, I thought I'd show you my goldwork "tools" - they aren't all tools, and there aren't that many!

I only have one "specialty" tool for metal thread embroidery. I think the experts must have other tools that they use, but perhaps not. Most books I've seen don't have too many items beyond these. And again, they're not all tools, technically...

Goldwork and Metal Thread Embroidery Tools


The background of this photo is a velvet board - a thin piece of mat board with velvet mounted on it, used for cutting metal threads and keeping them in place while they're being cut and while you're using them. I've heard that beading boards work ok, too - they apparently have some kind of nappish surface of sorts, I suppose. It's the velvet nap that keeps the metal threads in place, and keeping them in place is a good thing, especially when you pre-cut several pieces of purl for chipwork.

I have two things I use for cutting and holding the metal threads, actually - this red board and a piece of black velvet as well. The black velvet is not mounted on a board, and while I don't use it for cutting, I've found it's handy for resting the cut threads on, especially when I may have to pack up a project while it's still underway. With the loose black velvet, I can fold it up carefully over the pre-cut threads and put it in a box. When I unfold it, the threads are still there...

From left to right, the rest of the tools, most of which many stitchers probably have in their needlework basket:

1. A decent pair of tweezers

2. A sterling silver mellore - This tool is used specifically for goldwork. Its main purpose is to help with manipulating gold threads without damaging them. It can also be used as an awl, to widen the plunging holes for the metal threads. You can find mellores made from other material besides sterling, and, incidentally, the mellore is not absolutely essential to goldwork. I've manipulated threads with the back of my tweezers....

3. Beeswax, used to strengthen couching thread

4. A plunging needle or plunging lasso - This is just a large eyed needle that you can either thread your metal threads into, to pull the ends to the back of the fabric, or you can string a piece of cord through the large eye and use that as a lasso to pull the metal threads to the back of the fabric. This is a #22 chenille needle, which seems to work ok in most cases.

5. A pair of scissors specifically for goldwork. I have three pairs of scissors specifically for goldwork, actually - and the other two I like much better than this pair! The scissors should be small and very sharp, and nice pointed tip is helpful. It's good to have a pair that is specifically for goldwork and that can be distinguished from your regular embroidery scissors. One of these days, I may invest in a pair with a fine serrated edge, but so far, the scissors I have (which are all typical embroidery scissors by gingher) have served me well.

6. A selection of couching threads, which I already explained when discussing where to find silk couching threads.

So that's it! Nothing really out of the ordinary is essential for goldwork, except the metal threads themselves. I like the fact, by the way, that Tanja Berlin gives the option on her website of ordering sample sizes of all her gold threads. The sample sizes are 9" each, and they vary in price according to the type of thread. But 9" is a good size to play with, and will go a fairly long way with most of the metal threads, except maybe passing thread. Remember as well that gilt metal threads are less expensive than the 2% threads, so if you're planning to play and practice, choose gilt.

Enjoy!

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Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Great Needlework Resource: Jane Zimmerman Online

 
If you haven't had a chance to visit the website of needlework teacher and designer, Jane Zimmerman - or if you didn't know about it before now - here's a good opportunity to get acquainted with a fantastic lady who revels in historical needlework of various types and canvas work...

Jane Zimmerman's website hosts some really valuable information for the embroiderer, and, because the site is relatively new, you can be sure that the future will bring much more of the same quality information, so it's a site you probably will want to bookmark and come back to over and over again.

For starters, there's a section on the website titled Needlework History. Here, you'll find an index of articles on different aspects of historical needlework. The first three articles are already available as PDFs. They cover the following topics: The Medieval Embroidery Technique of Or Nue, English Medieval Embroidery, and The Art of English Blackwork. If you like the historical aspects of needlework, don't miss these articles! They're well-written - and they're packed with pictures!

On the how-to side of things, don't miss Jane's Needlework Techniques page. The first two chapters on techniques are available as PDFs. The first chapter focuses on instruction in traditional Or Nue techniques (gold threads couched with colored silk), and the second focuses on adapting Or Nue to canvas work. Both are detailed "how to" articles, with instruction and photos. They're wonderful resources!

Besides the historical and instructional side of things, you'll find on Jane's site two nice galleries: one features guest artists, and the other features her own students' work. Definitely worth browsing if you like to look at photos of fine needlework!

In addition to information and photos, you can also purchase some of Jane Zimmerman's self-published needlework books, needlepoint kits, and instructional charts and booklets for different projects.

I hope you enjoy browsing her site as much as I did. If you have the time and the opportunity, do read her articles! They're well worth it!

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Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Goldwork Tip: Stretching Pearl Purl

 
As a follow up on how to use pearl purl, here's another option for this beautiful real metal thread. It still involves couching, but for this technique, you use a colored embroidery thread.

When you stretch pearl purl, the coils open and it looks even more like a spring. The gold thread (I always have a problem calling goldwork threads "threads" for some reason!) has nice spaces between the coils for couching, and if you couch in every other coil, you can achieve a different and interesting effect.

Goldwork: Stretching Pearl Purl


Although I already showed you this little motif when I was discussing goldwork on a crazy quilt square, I thought it worth while to bring it up again, to demonstrate what you can do with stretched pearl purl, and to show you how it looks next to regular pearl purl.

In the photo above, the last inside circle at the base of the motif is stretched pearl purl, couched in every-other-coil with red silk buttonhole twist. Directly above the stretched pearl purl is pearl purl #3, and above that, pearl purl size #F1.

To use stretched pearl purl, cut about half the length you need for the line you want to cover.

To stretch, grip each end of the pearl purl with your fingernails (well, I find it easiest to use my nails between the last coil or two). Pull gently with consistent pressure from both hands until the pearl purl has doubled in length.

Goldwork: Embroidery with Real Metal Thread: Stretching and Couching Pearl Purl


If you have coils on the end that are still closed, either stretch them or cut them off. Make sure that your length of pearl purl covers the line you want to cover, though, before you cut!! Once you've determined that you have the right length (or a little longer, even) than you need, you can thread your needle and get ready to couch.

Silk buttonhole twist worked really well here. You can use heavier threads, too, like Trebizond, or you can use regular stranded floss - but you'll probably need three strands or more for the color to show up well. Thread your needle and anchor it (either using a waste knot, or running it under threads already there). Bring your needle to the front of your fabric at the point you want your line to begin, and stitch over the first "valley" after the first coil. Then skip a valley, and stitch in the next. Continue stitching in every other valley between the coils until you reach the end of the line. Try to end with a couching stitch.

If you need to snip your gold to fit the line, snip it, then take your couching thread to the back and run it under the stitches on the back to secure it.

This is a very simple technique, and makes a really pretty line of gold, accented by whatever color you choose for a couching thread.

Another tip: though I usually will always wax a regular couching thread when I'm working with pearl purl, when I'm using the floss as a decoration (as in this technique) I don't wax the thread. The thread just looks better when it isn't waxed!

So, if you're game for goldwork, here's an easy technique to try!

Have fun with it!

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Monday, January 12, 2009

Free Pattern for Hand Embroidery or Goldwork: Stylized Pomegranate

 
The other day, I posted links to an online needlework book on church embroidery. In the book, there are some nice embroidery patterns, but they aren't very clear and they require some adjusting if you want to use them for your own embroidery patterns. One in particular struck my fancy, so I cleaned it up and here it is...

In the book, Church Embroidery, Ancient and Modern, this particular embroidery design is shown as a sample showing how to frame up a piece. It's on page 125 of the actual book (plate 18) and 178 of the PDF.

In looking at the original drawing, the piece looks as if it is worked in silk shading (on the leaves) and goldwork on the undersides of the leaves, outlining the leaves, and on the main body of what appears to be a stylized pomegranate-type design. I don't know what else to call these types of designs - I've seen them listed under pomegranates in different books of design, such as 4000 Flower & Plant Motifs: A Sourcebook by Graham McCallum. If you happen to know if designs like this have a particular technical name, please let me know!

If you click on the design below, you'll get a larger version. I've also included below a PDF link for those who are interested in a PDF version of this pattern.

Free Hand Embroidery Pattern for Embroidery or Goldwork: Stylized Pomegranate


Free Hand Embroidery Pattern for Surface Embroidery or Goldwork: Stylized Pomegranate (PDF)

Truth is, I really like this little design. I'm itching to start another project, and I think this would be a fun way to combine goldwork with a tiny bit of silk shading here and there. In fact, it could just be a fun goldwork design, without any silk shading... better yet, it would work well in goldwork with some of the couching done in colored silks. Oooooh - the possibilities!

We'll see if this one works into my list of "smaller" projects for this year! In the meantime, if you can find a use for the pattern, I hope you really enjoy it!


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Sunday, January 11, 2009

Where to Find Silk Couching Thread

 
I received a couple e-mails asking where I found my silk couching thread. I thought I would answer that here, in case others are looking for good silk couching thread.

There are a variety of threads I use for couching metal threads. Which one I use is determined by a couple things: what's easily on hand without having to dig through supplies, what type of thread I'm couching and what it's made out of, and finally, what I want the finished product to look like. I sadly admit that often, convenience plays a big role in what couching thread I happen to use! Normally, I keep a spool or two in my work basket, but sometimes, I have to dig for the right thread!

Kreinik silk couching thread: This is a gold-colored thread, size 0. It's a smoother thread than Soie 100/3, and has more of a shine to it. I like it because, when I'm couching smooth passing thread, the color and shine blend in with the thread.

You can find the Kreinik silk couching thread online at the Kreinik mall. Kreinik's regular website is no longer used for retail sales, so you have to go to their shopping website, which is called the Kreinik Mall. It's kind of a strange set-up - you're required to select a store listed, then browse their inventory! But anyway, here's a link for Kreinik silk couching thread through the Kreinik mall.

Soie 100/3 in light gold or dark gold: this is an excellent couching thread, but it's a bit thicker than the Kreinik, and it isn't as shiny. It comes in a variety of colors, but for couching gold, I like the light gold or the dark gold. The dark gold looks best, I think, with 2% gold threads, while the light gold looks better with gilt threads. Because it's a bit thicker than Kreinik, I don't use it for finer sizes of pearl purl (it tends to show, and sometimes, it really moves the pearls apart), and I don't use it for finer sizes of twists (like Elizabethan twist...)

For Soie 100/3, you can purchase it at any fine needlework shop that carries the Au Ver a Soie silk threads. Online, the following places carry this silk: Hedgehog Handworks, Berlin Embroidery (in all the colors for couching metal threads), Needle in a Haystack, etc.

Tire Silk: this is a new thread for me, but after using it a bit on the latest samples of goldwork, I really LIKE it a LOT! I think it may end up being my favorite thread for couching! It's called "Machine Twist (50 weight)," and it comes in a nice darkish gold. You can also find even a finer weight Tire Silk (100 weight), which I'd like to try for the really fine gold threads, like Elizabethan twist. I've put it on my wishlist.

If you want to try Tire Silk, visit Silk Things, where you can see the different types of silk they offer, and purchase whatever kind you want. On the link there, you'll need to scroll about halfway down the page to find the 50 wt Machine Twist. Besides machine threads, they carry some hand embroidery threads, which I'd also like to try.... one of these days!

So those are the types of silk couching thread I use and some of the places you can find them. I've used polyester for couching as well. There's a yellow one that looks just like the Soie 100/3, but a little brighter. But I've found I prefer the silk. And a little goes a long way, so it isn't that much of an investment.

On a final note, vacation is over - real work begins again. I had so much I wanted to accomplish these past three weeks, and, although I accomplished quite a bit, I didn't get nearly the amount of work done on the website that I wanted to! Well, it isn't the end of the world. After all, that's what weekends are made for, right?!!

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Friday, January 09, 2009

Favorite Real Metal Thread: Pearl Purl

 
My favorite real metal thread is pearl purl. It's a strange name, eh? Pearl purl is called "pearl purl" because it is "purl" (coiled metal without a core) and because it looks like a line of golden little pearls because of the size of its coils. I thought I'd give you a little expansion on an excerpt from my "Goldwork on Crazy Quilting" article I recently finished, to introduce you to pearl purl and show you how it's used.

You've probably already caught on to the fact that I love goldwork. I think it's such a gorgeous form of surface embroidery - it would be hard to top, actually, when considering beautiful surface embroidery techniques. In history, goldwork was reserved for the very wealthy or for ecclesiastical use. But today, as metal thread embroidery becomes very popular once again, it is an accessible technique for many stitchers, thanks to excellent instructional books that are available (you can read some of my needlework book reviews, which include several on goldwork), thanks to the fact that more specialty needlework shops are beginning to carry goldwork supplies, and thanks to the internet, which makes finding and ordering needlework supplies a lot more convenient than it used to be!

There are several different metal threads that I would classify as favorites: smooth passing thread, check purl, and pearl purl. Out of those three, if I had to narrow it down, I'd say that pearl purl is my favorite metal thread of all, for three reasons: it's awfully pretty (!), it's versatile, and it's relatively quick to work with.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


Pearl purl is made out of a thickish metal wire that is coiled like a spring. It comes in long lengths that you cut to fit whatever line or curve you're embellishing. It's one of the harder metal threads, but it is flexible. In its unstretched state, it takes both gentle and tight curves quite well. It also takes corners and angles well - a firm pinch with the tweezers will square off the pearl purl, or bring it to a sharp point.

If you want to practice with pearl purl, you'll need a couple simple supplies: a length of pearl purl, couching thread (I use Kreinik gold colored silk couching thread in size 0), a small needle (size 10 crewel works well), beeswax, and small sharp scissors to use for cutting metal threads. If you are going to venture into metal thread embroidery, it's a good idea to have at least one pair of small sharp scissors to use solely for metal threads. Real metal threads can be pretty rough on a pair of scissors, so don't use your best embroidery scissors to play around with them, unless you don't mind making your best embroidery scissors your metal thread scissors!

Here's how I used pearl purl to create a simple vine-like motif.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


I began by drawing out a pattern on my fabric. Any line design of a flowy nature works well for practicing with pearl purl. I used a fine tipped art pen and just drew some scrolly things that fit in the corner of this block.

The ink bled a bit due to the type of fabric, but I'm using a large pearl purl (#3), so it will cover the lines just fine.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


Run your couching thread over a cake of beeswax a couple times, then run it through your fingers a couple times to distribute the wax and make your thread smooth.

Lay your pearl purl on your vine motif to measure approximately how much you'll need to cover the first scroll. Cut it a little longer than you think - it's always better to have to snip off a few extra coils at the end, rather than running short!

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


To cut the purl, snip it between two coils. Here, I'm cutting a pearl purl #2, just for the sake of this demonstration. You can snip closer to the point of your scissors if you wish, but pearl purl #2 and #3 are rather tough metal - I find I need more leverage when I cut them!

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


You can clean the cut ends up with your scissors if you need to. Sometimes, a little shard will stick up - you want to remove anything like that, either by snipping a bit off with scissors, or by pinching the shard down with tweezers. In any case, the side of the cut on the coil gets turned down next to the fabric when you couch it, so that a full coil is showing on top.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


I find it easier to begin by couching in the second coil, then couching in the first coil. Bring your needle up in your ground fabric at the beginning of the line you want to cover. Then take your needle back down over the gold, and pull through until a small loop of your couching thread remains. Sometimes, it's easier to make the loop, then stick your gold thread into the loop. Pull down on the thread gently until it's snug on the pearl purl.


Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


You want the thread to rest between the coils, not on top of a coil, because you're going to tug it down into the coils so it isn't visible.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


Give the thread a good little pull from the back. You don't have to yank it. A quick tug will pop the thread down between the coils, where it will disappear. Usually, you'll even hear a popping sound, but not always. I find it's better to give a pressured pull from the back, than to really yank on the couching thread. A "tug" is better than a "yank."

Once you couch the first and second coils of the pearl purl down onto the beginning of your line, proceed to couch the rest of the metal thread until the line is covered. Couch the thread in every third or fourth coil on straight lines or very gentle curves. As the curves become tighter, couch in at least ever other coil, so that the purl takes the curve smoothly.

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


As you come to the last coils to cover your line, couch in each coil for the last two or three coils. Snip any extra coils that extend beyond the line, then use tweezers to pinch down any shards, and to turn the coil (if possible - it's not always possible) so that the least amount of the cut is visible. In fact, in the two ends showing above, the coils should have been turned better, so that the whole cut wasn't face up!

Goldwork Threads: Embroidery with Real Metal Threads: Pearl Purl


These two ends are a bit better, since the coils at the very end are complete.

Once you get your vine couched, you can embellish it however you wish! I used spangles around mine.

Pearl purl is a relatively easy type of metal thread to work with, and you can vary the look of the pearl in several different ways.

In the meantime, if you're game to try metal threads, you can find them through specialty shops listed at the end of this article on goldwork supplies. The larger sizes of pearl purl (2 and 3) are more expensive than the finer pearl purl, because of the quantity of metal and gold used to produce them. But even if you just buy a little bit, it'll go a pretty long way. In fact, Tanja Berlin sells sample pieces of all the goldwork threads she carries, which is a nice way to get introduced to them.

If you have any questions about pearl purl - or if anything was unclear in this little tutorial - don't hesitate to ask!

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Thursday, January 08, 2009

Becoming a Crazy Quilter, Part I: As Long as There's Gold!

 
Yesterday, I tried to exclaim again that I am not a crazy quilter. Today, as I finish putting the final touches on this article I'm writing for CQMag Online, I have re-thought that. I could become a crazy quilter.... under certain circumstances.

The first circumstance that would convert me to crazy quilting would be this: that someone out there, somewhere, would take it into their entrepreneurial heads to sell pre-made crazy quilt blocks from fine fabrics, with choices of color scheme. Hahahahha. Yeah, the fabric piecing. My block turned out a mess. Oh, yes - I know. I know what you're going to say! That's the wonder of crazy quilting! You get to cover the mess up! Still. It would be nice to have a confidently well-made block! I'd be a faithful customer...

By the way, on that note, I think it does matter whether or not you cut on the bias, even on crazy quilt squares that rely on wonky-shaped pieces.

The second circumstance that would convert me is that I could embellish with gold all the time, forever and ever.

And the third circumstance hinges on the second a bit: that I had a specific use or end product for each piece. Obviously, a quilt isn't an option. No one would want to sleep with large quantities of bright check purl.....

Anyway, all that being said, here's another seam treatment for you:

Goldwork on a Crazy Quilt Seam


This is rather a little and simple treatment of two seams - but it shows off the metal threads to good effect, methinks.

If you want to see the rest of this square and read some tips and tricks about using goldwork in crazy quilting, check out my article in CQMag Online, titled Goldwork and Crazy Quilting.

Ok. I have to finish!

Bye!





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Wednesday, January 07, 2009

I'm Not a Crazy Quilter, Part II

 
Ok, I've said before I'm not a crazy quilter. But ... but .... oooooh .... I may be converted, yet. Guess what I've been up to? I'm in the process of finishing and polishing as we speak, but then I got really excited, and I just had to share with you a wee little bit of what I've been doing....

I blame this solely on Allison Aller! (Well, "blame" probably isn't the right word! I thank her for the idea and the opportunity!) I can now see precisely why crazy quilting can be addictive. I've never quite done anything like it. And it was fun. It was lots of fun. Frustrating at moments, because I don't have a bunch of experience in creative crazy quilty ideas floating in my head... but perhaps that was part of the fun.

Goldwork Metal Thread Embroidery on a Crazy Quilt Square


Anyway. Just a little snippet. This is for an article for CQMag Online. Rissa is patiently waiting for the article. I'm impatiently editing photos.

Yes, Jo. I ventured over to the crazy side....

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Monday, December 15, 2008

Goldwork Supplies A-Plenty!

 
I recently placed an order through Hedgehog Handworks for some goldwork supplies, in anticipation of an upcoming needlework project that I'm looking forward to writing about. Some of the threads I received are kind of interesting, so I thought I'd show them off!

When you order real metal threads from Hedgehog, they generally come in little plastic boxes of various sizes. For shipping, I suppose this is nice, because it keeps the threads intact. But if you order an abundance of types of threads, when you open the box, you may find that you have ... well.... LOTS of little plastic boxes!

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


Right now, I don't mind the boxes so much, since the gold threads are nesting safely within them. But I know I'm a bit of a packrat when it comes to those types of packaging containers. Once the gold thread is gone, I will feel obliged to save them for "something else," and the next thing I know, I'm going to have little plastic boxes multiplying in my cabinets, until I'm overrun with little plastic boxes!

But I suppose I'll face that dilemma later!

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


Once the supplies were taken out of the shipping box and stacked up, they didn't look quite so abundant, but still, it's a nice stock of threads for the project I have in mind.

Mostly, I ordered pearl purl, smooth purl, matte purl, check purl, twist, smooth passing, and rococco, along with some different sizes of spangles.

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


I also ordered these two specialty threads.

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


This is a frieze / bullion twist, a combination of a check purl (frieze brilliant) and a smooth purl or bullion, in silver (check purl) and gold (smooth purl). It's kind of a thickish metal thread, heavy looking and very rich. I'm not sure if I'll use it soon or not. I'll have to play with it a bit!

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


This metal thread is called Sadi Twirl, and it's a bit different. It's two coiled springs made out of metal wire in different colors, twisted together. The coils are not smooth and tightly coiled like smooth purl, which is limp and very supple, but rather this stuff is coiled with space between the coils, and the actual coils are somewhat stiff. They aren't as stiff as pearl purl, but the thread is fairly stiff overall.

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


You can see the tip of the thread here and get a better sense of the coils and the wire used to make them.

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


It was heaps of fun going through the new goldwork supplies. Once I sifted through the order, I had to figure out how to store them. Rummaging through my cabinets, I came across a couple empty stationery boxes that I had brought home from work for just this type of situation! One of them was perfect - I stacked all the little boxes inside, and had room for a bag of goldwork "scraps" left over from various projects.

Goldwork Threads / Real Metal Threads / for Upcoming Embroidery Project


Ahhhh. I feel so smug and organized! I put the lid on the box, labeled it "Goldwork Supplies," and resigned it to the project shelf until I can get this one started. I'm hoping to launch into it this week - so I'll spring it on you soon!

Where to Find Goldwork Supplies


In the US: Hedgehog Handworks, Japanese Embroidery Center (Japanese Threads)

In Canada: Berlin Embroidery

In Australia: Alison Cole Embroidery, Mary Brown Designs, Jane Nicholas Stumpwork Embroidery

In the UK: Benton & Johnson, Golden Threads

If you know of any other goldwork supply resources, please do let me know and I'll be happy to include them on my list!

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Sunday, December 07, 2008

Goldwork & Silk Ornament: How I Finished It, Several Times

 
Here's my run-down on the finishwork on my goldwork and silk Christmas ornament that I made for a swap...

First, I gathered all the supplies I'd need to finish the Christmas ornament: threads, batting (which I didn't use after all), fabric, scissors, etc.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


I wasn't quite sure about which fabric to use for the back. I had some cranberry colored silk shantung, some burgandy velvet, and a dusty pink striped fabric. The ornament actually has quite a bit of pink in it!

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


Next, I took the ornament off the frame and cut off the excess linen.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


Next, I measured and cut out two pieces of acid-free mat board. I planned to cover one with the fabric for the back of the ornament, and the other I would mount the front on. Stay tuned, though - I changed my approach on this much later!

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


Then I cut out the corners on the linen, so that I could fold the linen more easily onto the mat board. I wasn't exactly sure about this whole part, which kind of bugged me.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


I didn't want bulk corners, so I trimmed out little triangles, thinking that would help reduce the bulk. Well, of course it didn't work - there was an overhang - so I cut squares out of the corners instead.

I folded the edges under, using a strip adhesive sold for scrapbooking (archival and permanent) to hold the fabric securely to the mat board. To do this part, I put the ornament face-down, and placed the mat board over the back of it. I put the adhesive on all four sides of the back of the mat board, then pulled one side of the ornament up and smoothed it onto the sticky strip on the back of the mat board. Then I did the opposite side, making sure to pull the ornament enough to give good tension, but not too much. Then I did the remaining two sides opposite each other.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


It "worked" ... but I wasn't quite happy with it. The point was just to adhere the fabric so that it would remain in place while I stitched the front and back together. But I didn't like the thickness of the top piece, and I really didn't like the fact that the white linen was slightly visible on some sides. I tried to console myself with the fact that the edge would be covered with cording. But it was a lame attempt at consolation. I had to backtrack later. So stick with me, here...

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


At that point, the front was mounted, though not quite to my satisfaction, and it was time to move on to the back. I debated over fabrics and finally decided on a burgandy-ish scrap of something sort of resembling velvet but feeling more like a stretchy velveteen. Whatever. It worked - the color was right, and though it doesn't have the shine of silk, I think it was more important that the color was right!

Now it was time to go through the same process of mounting the backing fabric.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


I cut out the square to the right size, placed the other piece of mat board on it, and glued the edges as I had done for the top of the ornament. I liked the thick back with the mat board much better.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


When I put the two pieces together, I was still concerned about the thickness of the top. I just didn't like it. But I forged on! I should've taken a break at that point and thought about it!

My next step was to consider what to use for cording and trim. This, of course, is where the thickness of the piece started to bother me even more. I would have liked to just put a cord around it and cover up the place where the front and back were joined, but golly, that would have to be a huge cord!

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


I went through my stash to pick out possible threads for cords. I was sure I would have all manner of types of thread and colors suitable for this project. Not so, not so. This is what comes of working from stash. You have to take what you can get! I had a silk chenille (on the right) that looked about right; a soie gobelin that looked about right, and two colors of soie d'alger that are in the ornament.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


I tried making individual cords from all of them. I even tried making one big fat cord from several combined, with a gold colored Trebizond thrown in for the fun of it.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


But none of it really worked, and I settled, instead, for a plain soie d'alger that I used to couch some of the gold passing on the ornament front.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


Then I turned my thoughts to tassel making. For a small tassel, the soie gobelin was really the only suitable thread. The chenille was too thick, and the soie d'alger would end up really fuzzy. The resulting tassel, by the way, stunk, so I improvised something else, which you will see later.

Next, I sewed the front and back of the ornament together, using a regular slip stitch, since I'd be covering that up with a cord, anyway. I didn't like the thickness, especially of the front. I didn't like the fact that so much of the white linen was showing, especially because I knew the cord probably wouldn't cover that up all the way around. Aaaargh! SO...

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


At this point, I took the ornament apart, took the front off, took the mat board out, and mounted the ornament on a smaller cut piece of white (archival) card stock. The resulting edge of white was still there, but much thinner. That was much better. I sewed it up, then started with the cording.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


You can see my silly tassel hanging off here just to the right. I didn't take a full picture of it - I should have, then you would understand better. For one thing, it was just too "pinky-orange" - just a shade off from the colors in the ornament. For another thing, it was having a terribly bad hair day. Soie gobelin is probably not the best thread choice for making a small tassel - it might work better on a larger tassel, where length would give some weight to the threads. On a small tassel, the thread ends flipped all over the place and looked messy and awful. Couple that with the slightly off color, and... well. It just didn't work. I got rid of it.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


Here's the cording, after the first round of slip stitching just to get it attached. I used a little piece of gold Trebizond at the top for the hanger, which I ran through between the front and ornament backing, and secured in place as I stitched the cording on.

Next, I addressed myself to the problem of the tassel. I didn't want to leave the soie d'alger twist hanging there - though I probably could have knotted it and left it. It didn't look bad. But I wanted more than that! I actually wanted a Big, Fat, Pretty Tassel!!! (Note to self: plan ahead!!)

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


Instead, I opted for a tiny tail of little gold beads.

Once I had the beads on, I finished off the threads from the cord by running them individually into the cording (up the sides) and then, I gave the cording one more round of slip stitching to secure it and pull it a little bit more over the white.

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


My tree's not up yet, so no tree shot!

Goldwork & Silk Christmas Ornament Finish Work


I suppose that, despite the strange tail of gold beads, she'll do ok! I would have liked a heavier tassel for the finish. This picture above was taken from a weird angle, but the ornament actually does hang ok. I though the tassel would be essential for balance, but I could've left off a tail altogether. The beads look a little... well... I don't know. They look kind of dorky. They have a nice gleamy sparkle to them that goes with the goldwork, but perhaps I should've left them off?

Overall, though, I was pleased with the final result, though I do think I'm going to have to make a concerted effort this coming year to polish up my finishing skills!

I hope the recipient likes it!

If you haven't signed up for this month's stash give-away, you might want to take a look at it. I've giving away two spools of Gilt Sylke Twist, along with a few other little goodies (not pictured!). The deadline for that is next Wednesday morning, December 10th. If you want to enter, please read the original post!

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Friday, December 05, 2008

December Embroidery Stash Give-Away: My Favorite Things

 
I've been doing this monthly embroidery stash give-away for 12 months now, and it's kind of fun - I'm thinking about making it a regular feature, rather than a yearly resolution! On top of the monthly stash give-aways, I've sent out many books this year to stitchers and crafters around the globe. Now, I'm giving away two of my favorite things. Perhaps to some of you, this will seem rather limited, in comparison to previous stash contests --- I assure, it's not! The pain of separation is already acute!

The month's give-away is geared towards those who love embroidery, whether you're at the beginner, intermediate, or advanced level. For the beginner, though, the prize requires you to take your embroidery to another level. That is, go beyond "craft." Move towards art. If you have fallen in love with embroidery, then you probably want to take your needlework a bit beyond basic. To do this, materials make all the difference. And, in embroidery, the primary material used is thread.

So I'm giving you some thread in this give-away, but not just any thread.

Gilt Sylke Twist is a relatively "new" thread on the market, brought about by the folks at Plimoth Plantation who are recreating a 17th-century embroidered lady's jacket. If you haven't read about this project, you may wish to visit the Plimoth Plantation blog, The Embroiderers' Story, to see what's going on there. It's fascinating.

Gilt Sylke Twist is a unique thread in today's thread market. It's made up of a core of flat silk wound with a real gold wire. It's a very fine and tiny thread. And it's beautiful! It is suitable for all kinds of embroidery applications. I've worked chain stitch, satin stitch, buttonhole stitch, and others with it, and it's worked fine. So whether you are interested in historical embroidery, crazy quilting, or just regular decorative surface embroidery, you will find this thread versatile enough to suit your style of stitching.

In case you haven't seen it in use, here's my Gilt Sylke Twist Strawberry, which was my practice piece when the thread first came out:

Gilt Sylke Twist Thread: Strawberry Practice Piece


(I blogged about this piece in detail - you can read about it, and the different uses of Gilt Sylke Twist in it - on the Completed Gilt Sylke Twist Embroidery Sample post.)

It's also rather dear, ranging in price from just short of $20 / spool (35 meteres) to about $22 / spool, depending on who's selling it. The cost of the thread may well prohibit some who would like to play with it from giving it a try. The cost certainly limits most stitchers from building a stash of this gorgeous thread.

So whether you've tried Gilt Sylke Twist and just want more, whether you've wanted to try it and simply haven't had the opportunity to purchase any, or whether you have never heard of it, but are a serious budding embroiderer, this stash give-away is for you.

I'm giving away two spools in red and green. Both are the original "redde" and green that came out when the thread first went public. This is the forest green, not the Lincoln Greene available now. I don't know if this green is available anymore. I had heard that it isn't, but that's "needlework gossip," and it may not be accurate.

Gilt Sylke Twist: Hand Embroidery Thread in Silk and Gold


In addition to these two spools, which are the feature elements of the give-away, I'll include a few other little things, typical of previous give-aways.

But I'm not going to show them to you!

Gilt Sylke Twist: Hand Embroidery Thread in Silk and Gold


Do you know why?

Gilt Sylke Twist: Hand Embroidery Thread in Silk and Gold


Because next to this thread, most other embroidery supplies look pretty mundane!

I'm gearing this give-away to stitchers who would actually use this thread seriously - who have a keen interest in embroidery as an art, and who have developed or are developing their skills beyond the basics. That's not to say that beginners can't participate! Sure you can! But if you're really not interested in this type of thread, then do leave the drawing for those who really are, so they have a better chance of winning. Thanks!

This is what you have to do to enter:

Leave a comment on THIS post (on the website, not through the e-mail newsletter), answering the following questions:

Why do you want to win this giveaway? Do you have specific plans for the thread?

PS - (added Friday Evening!) Please be sure to leave your name if you post anonymously!! Thanks!

I'll select the winner on Wednesday, December 10th, at 5:00 am CST, and announce the winner that morning here on Needle 'n Thread. The winner must then contact me to give me a mailing address. If I don't hear from the winner before Friday morning, I'll draw a new winner on Friday.

Participants are welcome from all over the globe - I don't mind international mail!

Thanks for participating!

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Saturday, November 29, 2008

Goldwork & Silk Ornament ... er, Almost Finished

 
I was going to say "finished." But then I remembered it's not finished. I did manage to finish the top of the goldwork and silk Christmas ornament yesterday - and with a sense of silly, premature exaltation, I convinced myself it was finished.

The fact of the matter is, no one would hang a Christmas ornament on a tree while it's still framed up for embroidery. In fact, I think we could safely say it isn't even a Christmas ornament yet.

I still have to assemble this piece into an ornament. That will involve stuffing and backing it (not really stuffing it, but there will be a layer or two of something in there that'll give it some fill), finishing around the edge with a cord (which I still have to make) and adding a tassel (which I still have to make) and something with which to hang it. All of this, I hope, can be accomplished in a couple hours.

Hand Embroidery: Goldwork and Silk Christmas Ornament


Here's the whole front. Finishing off the gold passing was rather a pain. On future similar projects, I will certainly remember to couch the passing thread first before putting the pearl purl outline down. The gold passing couched with the gold (the innermost part of the border) ended up being fairly even all the way around, with the exception of one side, where I found I had to work one extra little bit of passing in to fill the space.

After I put the ornament together, I'll go over it really well with the mellore (a small silver tool used for prodding gold threads) to make sure all the threads are well situated.

Hand Embroidery: Goldwork and Silk Christmas Ornament


I used gold spangles and a red bead in the blank spaces on the inside of the design, to add a bit of sparkle and to fill up the interior space a little bit. I love the way the gold spangles gleam. They really catch the light, but it's hard to catch that on the camera.

Hand Embroidery: Goldwork and Silk Christmas Ornament


The spanges on the ornament are actually two different sizes, though I don't think it's obvious from far away. To fit one up in the corner above the green shapes, I had to use the smallest ones I had (I think a size 18). The corner spangles, then, are pretty small. All the other spangles are a size 14.

I'm going to try to finish this up today, if all goes well. I was supposed to film video stitches today, but two things prevent me: a dark, dismal day (I need sunlight to get good results) and company for dinner tonight. But I should have an hour or so this afternoon that I can devote to the finish work on this project. It always makes me nervous when I cut the piece from the frame, so keep your fingers crossed that all goes well!

Enjoy your Saturday!

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Saturday, November 15, 2008

Goldwork and Ecclesiastical Embroidery Up Close

 
I've been somewhat short on TIME this weekend, but even if you are, too, you'll probably find the following (brief) online exhibit of a gorgeous piece of historical ecclesiastical needlework awe-inspiring...

This cope is one of the vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece, housed in a museum in Vienna. This particular cope is called the Mantle of the Virgin, about which I wrote a wee little bit a while back.

This vestment is worked in Or Nue - silk over gold threads. The great thing about this online "exhibit" of the Mantle of the Virgin is that you can zoom in on the various sections of the cope.

Mantle of the Virgin: Goldwork and Silk Ecclesiastical Embroidery from the 15th century


Check out the folds in the sleeve - and the pearls on the pillar! It's really something else to be able to see these relatively upclose. Of course, I'd rather see the piece in person - but in the meantime, I suppose I'll settle for this way of viewing the vestment!

Thanks, MC, for the link!

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Friday, November 14, 2008

Goldwork & Silk: Embroidered Christmas Ornament Update

 
Here's a very quick update on my embroidered Christmas ornament in goldwork and silk!

I had to change my mind on one idea because I was short on the metal thread I wanted to use - I'm running short on check purl... you'll see what I mean...

Goldwork and Silk Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament


The area between the green and gold twist and the pearl purl (the inside area of the border) was the problem. I wanted to cover the yellow felt there with check purl, like the middle diamond shape. Unfortunately, I didn't think I'd have enough to get around the whole edge, so I reverted back to the idea of the passing thread couched in gold.

Goldwork and Silk Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament


I think the gold passing thread couched with the gold silk gives the ornament a nice beveled look, but I really wanted a few more sparkly areas on the ornament. The other disadvantage is that I had already couched the pearl purl - the one wrapped in green silk and the one that lines the inside of the square. It's not the normal order to use when couching passing thread, methinks. The green and gold pearl would've been ok, but having the other edge of pearl purl makes it quite difficult to couch the passing thread. I'm going to have to sink some threads.

Goldwork and Silk Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament


You know, I think I might be back to that dilemma - do I want it on point, or square? Oh - don't worry - we won't start that again! It's funny how different it looks in photos. I don't see it from far away when I'm working on it, and can't really get an eye for it, but when I see it in photos, I think I can be a bit more objective.

Maybe. Can we ever really be objective about our own work?

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Monday, November 10, 2008

Confessions of a Needlework Fanatic

 
If you hadn't noticed (I think you probably have!) I'm a needlework fanatic. I was facing a little needlework dilemma recently, and I found a website that solved it. Unfortunately, it also caused my needlework fanaticism to flare up again.

My dilemma was this: I needed a variety of fabrics to make (oh, yes, here we go again) a pieced foundation for a small crazy quilt adventure. Now, if you've read my past history of crazy quilting attempts, you know I'm not a crazy quilter. There's something in me that would like to be, to a degree, but ... there's also something in me that doesn't like piecing together fabric, which seems to be an essential part of crazy quilting.

BUT - never say die - I'm determined to try again. The difficulty is that I don't really have a stash suitable for crazy quilting - nothing really interesting. I am just not a fancy-fabric hoarder (though I can see how attractive it would be to be one!).

I resorted to a website I've ordered from before - Evening Star Designs - and, for very little output, I was able to get a variety of fabric pieces perfect for crazy quilting.

You may remember that I mentioned a while back my resolution to refrain from purchasing any more embroidery supplies for a six-month span. I hang my head in shame. I have succumbed. In fact, I've succumbed all over the place in the last few days.... but, these were needs, not wants (the voice of the Justifier). I had to have the fabric for an upcoming project!!

I probably shouldn't mention the fact that, while I was fanatically exploring every nook and cranny of the Evening Star Designs website with that sense of starvation that comes from not having purchased embroidery supplies for the last almost-three-months, I happened to linger a bit too long over the Embroidery Threads section... where I happened to study too closely the Sassa Lynn threads... and happened to buy some. I probably shouldn't mention the silk buttonhole twist, either. All six spools of it.

My conscience seems to be nagging me: I feel inclined to mention that I also had to binge a bit at Hedgehog, in order to replenish my depleated metal thread stash.

I feel like the cat that swallowed sixteen-million-five-hundred-and-fifty-two-thousand-three-hundred-and-twelve canaries.

And darn, gosh, and golly - I am so looking forward to the mail in the next few days!

I have glutted. And I am satiated.

But all that being said - HEY! I can't wait to show you the STUFF!!

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Wednesday, November 05, 2008

Goldwork and Silk Christmas Ornament Progress

 
It's been a while since I've mentioned progress on my silk and goldwork hand-embroidered Christmas ornament! Don't worry - this isn't an example of one of those projects that went to pot shortly after take-off! Sometimes, that happens, and often, when I make a mistake, I'll have a hard time really getting back into a project. But the minor mistakes I've made on this little project have all been pretty positive, so I've been chugging along on it still. Here are some photos for you...

Last time we touched upon the embroidered Christmas ornament, I was not liking (and then I was liking) the orientation of the center design, especially the red satin-stitched areas with the lattice work on them. Many good people gave my heaps of great suggestions on how to improve it. I think, before all is over, I will take up the suggestion of changing the orientation of the lattice work.

At this point, I'm just pluggin along on the couching around the outside edge. I'm using #5 gold passing (2%), and working around in a bricking pattern, using shades of a cranberry red silk.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, in silk shading and goldwork


The most tedious part of the ornament so far has been this outside edge. Oh, woe is me. Never, ever start a project without enough of the needed supplies on hand. My original intention was to work this entirely from stash, and so far, I have been able to keep that resolution! But it's been hard! I'm taking every tiny measure I can think of to conserve thread as I go, including not carrying to the next area of the same shade. I'm using tiny stitches to anchor each piece of thread... and it's getting... really.... t-e-d-i-o-u-s.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, in silk shading and goldwork


This is a very wobbly looking corner. Dang.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, in silk shading and goldwork


The other way I managed to stretch my thread stash in these colors was actually to use more shades than I intended. Originally, I was going to use two shades of this silk, but as I ran out of the darkest shade, I moved to one shade lighter. Then, as the second darkest shade started dwindling, I moved to one shade even lighter, and used less of the dark shade. So I'm ending up, in all, using four shades of cranberry, which may actually end up being five shades by the time I'm finished!

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, in silk shading and goldwork


The bricking goes from dark and close together in the corners to lighter and farther apart towards the middle stretch on each side. Some of my bricking isn't perfect. Oh, wait. Most of my bricking isn't perfect!! But don't try to talk me into taking it out.... Please....

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, in silk shading and goldwork


I think I have about three more double lines of couching to do to fill this area. Here's hoping the thread lasts. If it doesn't, I'll come up with "something," though I haven't the foggiest idea what.

My plan is to continue with the gold passing, even on the yellow felt (we'll see - I'm having second thoughts), but to couch that in gold thread so that the gold looks brighter. I would divide the two areas of passing with a wrapped pearl purl (a new technique I learned when working on the goldwork pomegranate), which I would like to sit up above the passing area a bit, so I'll work that on top of the lines, I think.

Then, there's chipwork to add still, and sequins and beads and then I'll think about the back. But right now... I gotta get that edge finished!!!

You'd think, knowing that I have to get that edge finished, I'd just go finish that edge, right? Right!

Wrong. Right now, I'm heading to the studio to lay out some designs for towels-turned-tea-cloths-and-basket-liners that I'm making as Christmas gifts. One design I'm going to use is this corner embroidery pattern of leaves and flowers that I'm going to blow up to make about a 3" or 4" deep edge. That'll be fun. The other design I want to work on today I'm adapting from a book - it needs to be enlarged and repeated and elaborated upon. I hope to be able to share it with you, once I figure it out! It's kind of "folky" in an Italian-pottery sort of way.

That's what I'm up to - the rest of the world seems rather quiet. What are YOU up to these days as far as needlework goes? Are you preparing holiday projects? Doing any finish work? Just having fun with your needle and thread? If you've got pictures online - on a blog or flickr or whathaveyou - feel free to post a link to your current project and tell us something about it!

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Tuesday, November 04, 2008

Alison Cole on Publishing Needlework Books

 
As mentioned in yesterday's introduction to Alison Cole, stumpwork and goldwork artist, designer and book author, here's the rest of Alison's article. It's not surprising that the next step in Alison's busy needlework career was to write a book... and then another book. What I think is interesting is how she went about doing it, and how her determination paid off in the end by giving her exactly what she wanted her books to be. You'll also find, at the end of this article, a picture of two fantastic embroidered panels.

Alison Cole on Writing Needlework Books


Writing a book is the easy part - getting it published was going to be as well - until the unthinkable happened.

Over the period of a couple of years, I had had three publishers ask me when I was going to write a book on Goldwork and Stumpwork. To them I replied 'one day soon'.

I know another tutor that had told me of her experiences in producing a book - and how the publisher wanted 20 projects so that they could select 12. And how the publisher contacted her to get another project whipped up - needing it immediately and not realizing how long it takes to embroider a piece of work. So when I decided to sit down and write my book, I decided to have the book partially complete before contacting the publisher that I had chosen, to eliminate some of the stress of the deadlines that they give.

This seemed fine. I told the publisher of the estimated completion date of the manuscript and projects, and the publisher was happy. The publisher was going to send me the contracts - which never arrived. But it didn't bother me, as I knew the publisher well and knew that they would in time come. I went on with the writing and promoting of the book. But the contract never eventuated.

When the book was complete, I sent off the manuscript. When I called to find out when they required the pieces for photography, the publisher then told me that they weren't able to produce the book this year - or maybe even the next - but did like the book. This absolutely flattened me. I had been promoting the book the whole time that I was writing it. In every class when someone asked when I was going to write a book, I told them that it was coming and would be out next year. Now it was all at a halt.

I decided that my book was still going to come out when I said that it would - and looked into self-publishing it. This was the best decision that I have ever made - although it worried my husband somewhat. Publishing means footing the bill - taking all of the risk but also taking the profits. I knew that the book that I wanted to produce would sell, as there were no other project-based Goldwork books on the market at that time and in every class I was asked what project-based books were out there. I knew that if the book was laid out well and had lots of photographs that showed off the embroidery and its richness, it had to work.

I contacted a company that specializes in helping authors self publish and when they took my call they were skeptical as to how ready I was to get it published. They told me that for every 20 authors that contact them, only one has a manuscript that is really ready. I arranged a meeting with them and left the meeting feeling happy that this was the way to go.

I contacted a photographer that I had worked with before and asked him if he would take the photos for me - he was surprised to hear that I had already worked out what photos were required and that I had already done the styling and organized the props. The shoot was done and dusted in a single day - a long day - but still only one day.

The production company that I was using had me sit down with the layout designer, whom I briefed in exactly how I wanted the book to look and be laid out. He made some suggestions which I liked and then laid the book out to my instructions.

Next I had to cut out a couple of projects as the book was too long, which was followed by inserting the photos and the diagrams. I then had to re-arrange some of the project layouts to accommodate the number of pages. Spelling and grammar edits and technical edits came next and then the print-ready proofs arrived. It was amazing seeing it all laid out and ready to go to print.

When the first air-freighted, hand-bound copies arrived, I could hardly believe it. All the work that had been done up until this, it still had not looked like a book. The end was getting closer. Finally, the truck arrived with the books. By the time the books arrived, I had arranged two Australian distributors and shortly after had arranged a UK distributor as well. I had enjoyed the whole process so much that I had also started on the second book which was to become 'The Midas Touch'.

Since then, 'All That Glitters' has gone into reprint and has been picked up and distributed outside of Australia and New Zealand by Search Press - throughout the UK, Europe, USA and South Africa.

'The Midas Touch' has also now gone into reprint, and is being distributed in the UK by Golden Hinde and in the USA by Nordic Needle.

While I have started work on the third book, it is going to be quite different than its predecessors. It is still featuring Goldwork - and has two projects already completed - but will take longer to complete. I am hoping that it will be released around 2011. Next year (2009), I have three commissions lined up on top of my usual teaching commitments.


Alison Cole has two panels on display at the Warrnambool Art Gallery in Victoria. The following photo was taken when the panels were unveiled. You can click on it for a larger image.

Goldwork and Stumpwork Panels by Alison Cole on display at Warrnambool Art Gallery, Victoria


I like reading about the successes of teachers, authors, and designers in the needlework world. Alison's book publishing ventures are a good lesson in determination, and good insight into what it takes to prepare a book for publication.

I hope you enjoyed this article, too, and thanks so much to Alison for sending it and the photos of her work along!

If you're interested in any kits or designs by Alison Cole, be sure to check out her website, Alison Cole Embroidery, where you'll find all her currently available kits offered, as well as a fantastic gallery of Alison's stumpwork and goldwork projects. You can also order your own embroidery, goldwork, or stumpwork supplies from Alison.

All That Glitters and The Midas Touch are both available here in the States. You'll find All That Glitters through Amazon, and The Midas Touch through Nordic Needle.

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Monday, November 03, 2008

Designer Spotlight: Alison Cole

 
I'm a huge fan of Alison Cole's embroidery and stumpwork, so just as I did with Trish Burr, I made a pest of myself and asked Alison for a little information on her experiences in the needlework world! I think it's neat to hear about the adventures of needlework designers and book writers, and it gives (to me, anyway!) a whole new perspective on the needle arts. So, without further ado, here's a bit about Alison, and I'll follow this up with her book-publishing experiences.

Alison Cole's Background in Needlework


The pictures below are recent projects that are not yet on the Alison Cole Embroidery website. I've left some of them larger so you can click on them to see the details upclose. Instead of paraphrasing, I'll let Alison speak for herself here!

I was born, educated and married in Ballarat, Victoria, Australia. I have always been around embroidery, as my mother was a professional seamstress. I have fond memories of sorting her threads and swapcard collection into colourways. I moved to Melton in January 2003 with my husband Stephen and two children.

It was when I was eight years old that my mother first put a needle in my hand and taught me to mend my teddy bear. From there she taught me to make a patchwork pillowcase which went on every school camp, but it was not until I was 12 that I took up embroidery. It became a passion for me - I used to stitch on the school bus to and from school, in my free periods and at lunch and recess. My friends used to laugh at me - always carrying around some piece of work.

Even when I starting dating - if my boyfriend wanted to sit beside me on the couch – he had to have my tapestry frame over his legs while I was working on it (one of my frames was over four feet long and took up the entire couch).

I worked in an office - working my way up to administration manager - and always stitched in my breaks. One time - while at lunch and stitching at my desk - some smart man said to me 'you have a good job'. Over the years, this became something that I heard regularly - sometimes, if I didn't want to be bothered with the smart remarks, I would stitch in the boardroom if it wasn't in use.

I joined the local branch of the Embroiderers' Guild and maxed out on classes - from Crazy Patchwork to Schwalm and everything in between.

After leaving work to have children, I started part time work at one of the local embroidery shops, where I was encouraged to teach and pass on my skills. I was told that I was already teaching - helping the customers with any problems that they had with their embroidery was teaching. And so I designed and taught classes in basic stitches, Stumpwork and Goldwork and loved every minute of it - as I still do to this day.


Victorian Elegance stumpwork by Alison Cole


The more people that I taught, the more that word got around. I taught at my branch of the Embroiderers' Guild and then at other branches and at Guild Headquarters. I was asked to teach at conventions and seminars and find myself these days fully booked almost two years in advance, teaching all around Australia and New Zealand.

Through the years I have furthered my studies in embroidery, gaining an Intermediate Certificate through the Embroiderers' Guild in Melbourne and completing numerous other courses including Train the Trainer Adult Education Course and Art for the Stitch - a design and colour course for embroidery artists. I am currently working on a long term research project that I started some years ago, which will culminate in another book.

I have been the recipient of a local Embroiderers' Guild Branch Scholarship and the prestigious Ethel Oates Scholarship, of which I used part to research the history of metal thread embroidery. I have also been the recipient of the Florence Monod Award for Excellence - the top prize awarded at the Royal Melbourne Show - judged over 150 categories. These days I am a sponsor of the Melbourne Show, supplying an award for the Best Piece of Stumpwork or Raised Embroidery.

I am a regular contributor to Embroidery and Cross Stitch Magazine and, to a lesser extent, Australian Country Craft Magazine. I have also had projects appear in Handmade Magazine and UK Publication Stitch with the Embroiderers' Guild. For three years I provided Christmas decoration projects for the Country Womens' Association Magazine.

Achievements in 2005 included receiving a Commendation for Stitching Excellence from the Embroiderers' Guild United Kingdom for their 'Picture This' competition and the People's Choice Award at the Embroiderers' Guild Victoria Annual Exhibition for the piece Jacobean Elegance. I also created a three dimensional floral arrangement of Goldwork Liliums for display at the Johnston Collection's exhibition 'Taking Tea with English Bodies' and I am also represented in their collection of decorative arts.


Azalea and Jezebel Butterfly: stumpwork by Alison Cole


During 2006, I was a featured artist at the Craft and Quilt Fairs, touring Sydney, Melbourne, Canberra, Brisbane and Adelaide, exhibiting, teaching and promoting the art of Goldwork. It is amazing how many people said to me 'Oh, this is new', only to have me cheekily reply 'Yes, these techniques are only about four hundred years old!' To the people that told me Goldwork was too difficult for them to try, I asked if I could borrow their grandchildren, and invited the kids to apply some purl in an area of chipping on my work.


Azalea and Jezebel Butterfly by Alison Cole


2007 saw me participating as Artist in Residence for a group project with the South Western Branch of the Embroiderers' Guild of Victoria, creating two panels 30 cm x 75 cm in memory of two of their members that are local benefactors. 2007 also saw me being commissioned to embroider a piece of Goldwork for the front cover of the UK magazine 'Stitch with the Embroiderers' Guild' for their 50th issue. This was also the year that I had my new studio built. A purpose-built studio with work room, store room, wet area and toilet - and more cupboards and shelf space than in my house!

2008 has seen another People's Choice award at the Embroiderers' Guild Victoria Annual Exhibition with the piece Gloriosa Lily and the release of my second book 'The Midas Touch'. My first book 'All That Glitters' was released in 2006.


Alison is one of the foremost teachers of stumpwork and goldwork in Australia, and from what I've heard from readers who have taken her classes, she is a delightful teacher. Her books are excellent - if you haven't seen them or added them to your collection, you may want to put them on your list! You can get All That Glitters through Amazon, but for The Midas Touch, in the US, you'll need to look at Nordic Needle.

If you haven't perused Alison's website, you really should! Her projects are stunning! And, well... for US readers, if you've been hankering after one of her kits, now would be a good time to purchase, with the exchange rate (at the time of writing this) at about $.67 on the dollar. So, a kit that you would normally buy for $100 you can pick up for about $67 right now (plus postage). Not a bad deal!

Have you seen, for example, the Illuminated Floral project you can see on this page? It mesmerizes me. I could eat the blackberries!

Alison's book publishing adventures are a little different from Trish Burr's, so it'll be nice to hear another perspective on needlework book publishing. I'll have that up for you tomorrow, along with a photo of two panels Alison worked that are hanging in the Warrnambool Art Gallery in Victoria.

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Sunday, November 02, 2008

It Came Together! On Embroidery & Framing

 
I love it when a plan comes together! Guess what I picked up from the framer yesterday? I'm very excited! It's the goldwork & silk pomegranate that I've only written about in bits and pieces. Still, I'm just so thrilled with it, that I must show you a picture of sorts!

I'm still bound by the fact that this project hasn't been published yet, so I can't show you the full finished piece. But I'm so darned excited that the framing came out so well that I can't help giving you another snippet of this goldwork and silk pomegranate designed by Margaret Cobleigh.

Do you ever take your work to the framers and just flounder on choices? Sometimes, I know exactly what I want and it all comes together in a matter of seconds. But other times, I take forever to decide, and then I leave with a kind of buyer's remorse, certain that the choices were all wrong.

But this came together quite well. I went for a triple mat and I framed the piece under glass. The frame is a nice frame. It's black and smooth and clean, but it has tiny veins of gold working through it. You can't really see the gold in the photo, though... but it's there - it's subtle, just "enough" to really tie into the pomegranate piece.

Goldwork and Silk Pomegranate Wedding Gift


The inside mat next to the embroidery is a perfect shade of green to go with the leaves. I like having a dark outline around a piece, especially when the fabric is lighter. The middle mat is gold. The top mat is a fabric mat in a deep cranberry-ish red, matching the pomegranate. It's linen-like in texture.

I really was a bit nervous about the choices on this one, but I was pleased as punch when I picked the piece up. It's a wedding gift for my niece (less than two weeks away!), so I'm glad the frame job came out so well!

After picking up the project, I had to duck into the grocery store. Right in front of me as I headed towards the produce section was, ironically, a magnificent display of pomegranates. Oh, yes! I found one with the crown still intact, and brought it home to celebrate.

Don't they just look swell together?!

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Sunday, October 19, 2008

Silk and Goldwork: Christmas Ornament Progress

 
After considering the hanging direction of my Christmas ornament, I finally realized I wouldn't know for sure whether it would look better square or on point until I finished the green shading. So I finished the green shading, and started the goldwork, then made one of those Moaner Mistakes...

My original concept for this ornament, as mentioned before, was to hand embroider a diamond-shaped Christmas ornament that would hang from the tip of the diamond, and be finished at the base with a tassel. You can see the original drawing of the pattern in the post where I was musing over different projects in planning stages.

Though I didn't plan much beyond the initial design, I had in mind an ornament that would combine silk shading and goldwork.

Thinking Through the Embroidery Design


Originally, the four diamond shapes around the center of the ornament were to be silk shading in deep reds, raised on felt. But when I started, I discovered I liked satin stitch better for those. Then, once I got the satin stitch in, I found I liked the ornament turned as a square better. So I polled readers about it, asking which direction they liked better, and I think the majority said they liked the ornament hung on point - but many also agreed that the inside diamonds looked better turned. Well, it was too late to re-design the layout, so I decided to forge ahead through the green silk shading to see if it would make a difference in the look of the ornament.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


Once the green was in, I was back to liking it on point, as a diamond shape overall, despite the direction of the little red diamonds within. I think it all panned out ok.

I suppose this isn't the most "professional" way to go about working up a project - this trial-and-error, not knowing where you're going for sure before you start, type approach. But I like undertaking projects this way, because there's more discovery along the way. I really had no idea how the red and greens would look together in the design. But I find I like them!

Haste Makes Waste


Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


Once the greens were finished, I was itching to start couching on the pearl purl around the green shapes! I couldn't wait (I thought) to see what the whole effect of the gold around the green would look like!

BUT - perhaps it was the late hour... perhaps it was my overeagerness... perhaps it was mere carelessness...

I made a mistake. One of those "ooooooooh nooooooooo" mistakes. Just as it happens, you realize exactly what you've done, but it's all so quick, in such an instant, that the fact and the realization of the error all come into being at the same split second...

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


There it is. In trimming the gold purl pearl, my scissors grazed the edge of my satin stitching, and (I thought) cut through several threads.

In fact, it grazed the threads, and cut halfway through two of them, but not all the way through either. Still, it wouldn't do - that needed to be repaired before I could rush into the rest of the gold.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


I examined from all angles, and realized the mistake wasn't really noticeable. But the problem was actually the threads - they wouldn't survive the test of time if they began Life on an Ornament already damaged. So ... on to the repairs.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


Repairing the Satin Stitching


The first thing I did was carefully snip off the lattice.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


Then, using the eye of the needle, I separated the threads that were damaged, to see if there was any way I could pull just one or two threads to the back, and fill in with a couple new stitches.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


As I pulled the threads carefully out, though, I realized it would be a matter of complete removal.

On the top of the work, I ran my scissors carefully under all the satin stitches on this one diamond, perpendicular to the direction of the stitches, and cutting the diamond right in half.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


On the back, I did the same thing, but I had to be much more careful, because I had ended and begun threads from other parts of the motif in the threads on the back of the diamond. After snipping just the red diamond threads, I carefully plucked out the satin stitching with tweezers.

Tweezers, by the way, are a necessary tool in any embroidery work basket!

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


I managed to get all the threads out with minimal damage to the felt. The front looked ok, but...

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


... the back was a Whole Nuther Question!

These were the threads that were anchored in the back of the satin stitching, and it was important that they return to their anchored state, so I was pretty careful with them!

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


It didn't take too long to satin stitch the diamond again.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


Once I got the lattice back onto the diamond, I charged into couching the rest of the pearl purl. Once the gold outline was on, I was sold again on the notion of the diamond shaped ornament!

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


I love the look of the gold with these colors of silk!

A Lesson for Hand Embroiderers All


What have I learned so far on this project?

1. Don't try to make decisions on a design until you get it to the point where you can really "see" it.

2. Haste makes waste. I was dying to get to the next step of the project, and, because I wasn't as careful as I should have been, I had to pick part of the stitching out and start over again, using up valuable thread and valuable time. Take things slowly and pay attention to detail - in the long run, it'll save you time!

3. But - everyone makes mistakes. As Shakespeare put it, "Roses have thorns, silver fountains mud. Clouds and eclipses stain both moon and sun, and loathsome canker lives in sweetest bud. All men make faults..." At some point, we all have to take out stitches! So instead of dreading taking out the stitches - or allowing a mistake to hault us in our tracks so that we don't go back to the project (that's hard to overcome - I find I'm always put off a project when I make a major mistake!), consider the picking out just part of the project. Picking out is, in a sense, an integral part of embroidery - at some point, even the best needleworkers pick out their stitches and re-do. It's all part of the process... and mistakes are part of being human.

Heh heh. That's the philosophical me - but don't think that, at the time, it didn't irk the heck out of me!

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament in Silk and Goldwork


NOW - what do you think about the diamond / square question at this point? Do you think the diamond works better overall now? What's your take?


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Saturday, October 18, 2008

Flat Silk and Twisted Silk from Flat Silk...

 
You know by now that I've got this problem I call Fiber Infatuation. I'm a thread-a-holic, and I love anything that has to do with embroidery threads. It's rather a sickness, as I end up with a glut of threads that I rarely use. Sometimes, I just organize them and separate them for the fun of it. Weird, I know. I'm afraid I might be the Silas Marner of the Thread World...

You Can Twist Flat Silk and Embroider With It!


Yesterday, Carol-Anne of Threads Across the Web posted a magnificent article on using flat silk. She shows us what the Japanese flat silk looks like in its original state, and then doubled thicker. And then - oh, wonderful! - she shows us how the Japanese silk looks when you twist it with different numbers of strands.

She's got the silk all lined up there, so we can enlarge the photo and look at the different threads created from the original flat silk.

Then, she takes the whole post further, by showing us what the twisted threads look like when stitched.

As I commented on her post, I'm going to suffer from Thread Distraction until I can play with some Japanese silk and make up some of that glorious twisted thread to stitch with. I'm just twitterpated with the whole idea!

Types of Flat Silk and Where to Find It


I buy my Japanese flat silk from the Japanese Embroidery Center in Atlanta, Georgia. They have a nice website and online shop that you should visit if you're interested in these threads. You can also find handmade needles there, and different types of Japanese golds.

Besides Japanese flat silk, I've worked with Eterna, which is a Chinese flat silk with a little (barely noticeable) twist to it. I don't know if you could twist it like you do with the Japanese flat silk, but I'm keen to try. I've also worked with Helen Stevens's silk - which is the same as Piper's silk - and with Soie Ovale by Au Ver a Soie (the flat silk that I used on the wool on the Agnus Dei project). Additionally, I've used Kreinik's soie platte, which is very similar to the Au Ver a Soie flat silk. Overall, so far, I like the Soie Ovale best, because it seems to have more body.

But... with this new information from Carol-Anne, you can bet your little boots I'm going to play with the Japanese silk and try to come up with a nice twist to stitch with.

Strangely enough, when looking up close at some old ecclesiastical pieces, I've noticed that sometimes, there are threads that look just like a softly twisted flat silk. I can't help wondering if perhaps the same technique was used. I can't wait to play and find out!

I'll be sure to let you know how my efforts pan out.

Progress on Silk and Goldwork Christmas Ornament


Other news: I did, in fact, get the green shading done on my Christmas ornament. For those of you who expressed an opinion on the direction of the ornament, thank you! I'm taking it all into consideration!

But - WOE IS ME - you know what I did? I started couching on some pearl purl, and in snipping a piece of it, I cut straight into one of the satin stitched red diamonds. I just grazed about three threads with the very tippiest tip of my goldwork scissors. How forlorn was I, I cannot begin to say!! Tomorrow, I'll give you a few photos of the green shading with the beginning of the goldwork, along with a view of the snipping tragedy, and I'll tell you what the remedy is in a situation like that!

Enjoy your weekend!

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Friday, October 17, 2008

Embroidered Christmas Ornament: Which Direction?

 
Oh golly. I'm just speeding along on this Christmas ornament (! not quite !), but I do at least have the surface embroidery well underway - maybe tonight I can finish that part! That's the plan, anyway. I've managed some satin stitch and some shading, and have developed a dilemma, if you want to take a look...

When I first designed this Christmas ornament, my plan was that it would hang on point, so it would be diamond-shaped. Then I started stitching, and a lot of things happend.

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, by Mary Corbet


First, the embroidered red things - originally, they were going to be shaded long and short stitch, raised on felt. But I started that, and I thought... you know, I'm going to see what satin stitch looks like first. I have a real thing for satin stitch - I just like it a lot. So I tried the satin stitch, and I found I liked it, so I stuck with that. The red diamonds will be outlined with an edge of gold, to finish them off.

Then, I thought a lattice might look nice over the top of the satin stitch, in a lighter shade of the same colors. These colors will be repeated on the border, in an Or Nue bit. So, I did the lattice couching. I like sparkly Christmas ornaments. There's going to be stuff on here, aside from the embroidery - and in the middle of the red things, I want to put a little gold pailette. So that lattice forms the framework for a tiny pailette. If it looks ok, I'll leave it. Who knows, I might change my mind!

Now, in the longer, petal-looking areas (where the green shading has been started), I was originally going to trim down some beetle wings to fit right in there, and surround them by pearl purl.

But - I didn't like the color of the beetle wings with the color of the reds. So I scratched that altogether, and decided to do the green shading. I think I'm going to like it better!

This is the dilemma, though. On point - diamond-shaped, that is - see the direction of the red diamonds and the lattice? It's looking rather square, isn't it?

But if I turn the ornament to be hung squarely, look what happens to the red diamonds and lattice:

Hand Embroidered Christmas Ornament, 2008, by Mary Corbet


I think I like the red diamonds better this direction!

So here's my question: Which direction should the ornament hang? Perhaps it's a little early to decide - maybe it will be easier to decide once all the green shading is finished. But I want to make a "final" decision on this dilemma before I begin the layers of goldwork around the outside, since I think the direction the ornament is to be hung will change the approach I take to the various colors....

What do YOU think? Any preference? Any insight to the look of the design, or to the way it will hang if hung as a square instead of a diamond?? Let me know your thoughts!!

I hope you have a terrific weekend!

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Saturday, October 11, 2008

Projects in Planning Stages

 
I have two needlework projects in various stages of planning right now. One is a Christmas ornament and the other is the Long and Short Stitch sampler. Let me show you what I'm doing, discuss a bit about designing, and then tell you where I'm going next.

If you're like me, designing your own needlework project is a bittersweet sort of adventure. The sweet side is the satisfaction - it's nice to design and execute your own work, from scratch to finish.

The bitter side is that it can be somewhat intimidating. First, there's the question of "What"? I often suffer from writer's block at the designing table. That's why I think it's a good idea to doodle, and even to keep track of your doodling in a sketchbook or journal. Before doodling, you might want to get the juices flowing. You can flip open books and take some inspiration from what you see, or you can go outside and see what's weird and wonderful in Nature. Somehow, you want the juices to flow, but at some point, you have to get it down on paper.

If you were taking a writing course, you'd be told to "brainstorm" or "list" - just plain start writing down anything that comes to mind, in order to get ideas out. For designing a project, the equivalent is doodling. Start doodling.

Once you have an idea, there are other intimidating factors to designing your own piece of needlework. There's the question of "acceptability." Sure, I like it - but will anyone else? Then there are the "professional" questions to take into consideration, too: form, order, line, color, texture - all that kind of stuff. For some people, that comes second nature. For people who are artistic, those questions may not pose a problem. For me, they do pose a problem, so I generally end up ignoring them, at least at first. My work probably suffers for that...!

If you're interested in designing your own embroidery piece, you might want to check out a helpful article titled "Taking the Fear out of Designing" by Sue Stause. I think it's a helpful, interesting, and informative article, though I probably don't do everything she suggests. (My work probably suffers for that, too...!)

I'm not a professional designer - as I've mentioned before, I'm a hobbyist, not really an "artist." I'm not formally trained for designing, drawing, color selection, and so forth. So, being the average Jane Doe when it comes to this type of thing, I just sort of work out things that I think will work out. And then I tweak and polish, just like a writer does with a rough draft.

After various doodles, this is what I've come up with for a long and short stitch sampler.

Design for a Long and Short Stitch Sampler


I suppose it looks a little more complicated than it is supposed to be. That's another fault of mine, when it comes to designing. I tend to go overboard instead of adhering to the KISS - Keep it Simple, Stupid - rule.
The concept was to arrange, in seven stages, different levels and approaches to long and short stitch shading, progressing from geometric shapes to natural elements, following in order of level of difficulty. The whole thing is 8" x 8", and each element is generally within the 1 - 1.5 inch range, so small enough to stitch in (hopefully) one sitting.

The next project I'm working on is a Christmas ornament. I oscillated between using someone else's design and making up my own, but the latter finally won out. This was a project that drew a blank for me for a long while. I knew the look I wanted, but couldn't figure out how I wanted it to come across. Many doodles later, I think I've settled on an idea, but I think there will be a lot more tweaking to come.

Christmas Ornament Design in the Works


The ornament will be a combination of goldwork and silk shading. There's still a bit of tweaking to do there.

The next step on the Long and Short stitch sampler is to work on color ideas. This particular project is not really a "wing it" sort of project since I want to use it for instruction. It'll take a lot more time at the design table.

For the Christmas ornament, though, with the basic shape in place, I'm actually ready to set it up for stitching. I know that sounds rather silly, considering I haven't exactly figured out what I'm going to do where, but... that's ok. I have enough of an idea that I can wing on this small project.

Do you like to design your own embroidery projects? Or would you prefer for someone else to do the designing for you? If you do like coming up with your own designs, how do you go about doing it? What's your favorite designing medium?

Any suggestions and tips are always welcome - not just for me, but for others out there who may have that deep down desire to design, but who are too intimidated to go for it! Maybe you know something that will help the rest of us!!

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Wednesday, October 01, 2008

Goldwork Project: Finished and Ready to Frame

 
I'm happy that I managed to finish the goldwork project I'm planning to give to my niece as a wedding gift. In fact, I think that's the only worthwhile thing I accomplished last weekend!! I'll show you a few photos...

...but unfortunately, no "complete" photos! I'm dying to show you the whole piece, but, as I mentioned before, we need to wait until the design is published in January!

I hope you understand and will enjoy instead these little up-close "mystery" photos.

Finished Goldwork Piece


Here's a close-up on some chipping inside an outline of pearl purl. A friend commented the other day that the close-up photos always make the piece seem as if it is much larger than it really is; then, when you actually see the piece in real life, you're surprised that it's much smaller and delicate looking. So, even though this looks large, it isn't - it's about half an inch wide, and half an inch high at the tallest point.

I think my chipping is a little too crowded. I need to work on that. When I do chipwork, I either end up with chipping that is too spaced, or chipping that's too crowded.

Finished Goldwork Piece


This project includes a little bit of everything - I think that's one of the reasons I liked it so much! Here are some beads and pailettes for you.

Finished Goldwork Piece


And another bit of chipwork.

I love finishing a project. But I don't love the "let down" at the end. There's nothing quite like finishing and stepping back to look at a piece. It's so satisfactory! But then... gosh. The end is bittersweet, because now the fun's all over!

To avoid the let-down, I moved very quickly into the baby booties, but it isn't quite the same, you know! On the bright side, I am planning an ornament for a swap, and I do believe it will include many of the techniques on the project I just finished.

So, here's a question: can you guess what the goldwork design depicts, just from the photos you've seen so far? You can find a couple more pictures of this project here. Just curious!!

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Goldwork Project: I Learned a New Technique

 
I think I mentioned in my carrot post that, among my present line-up of needlework projects, I've got a small goldwork project I'm working on as a wedding present for my niece.

I can safely mention the wedding present thing, by the way, because no one in that branch of the family would ever even think of looking at my website....! So don't worry that I'm giving away a surprise!

Back to the project...

As I mentioned before, I'm not able to blog about the whole goldwork project right now, or even show you complete pictures. But I wanted to show you a technique that I've never used before, that I learned while working on this particular project. I think the resulting look is really beautiful - perhaps you'd like to try the technique, too.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


See the edge on the embroidered area there? Nice, isn't it? This is a "non-traditional" goldwork technique. I've seen it before, but never used it, and didn't really know what it was all about. But it's simple, and I think it's ever-so-pretty - but then, I'm a sucker for gold and for anything that looks like a twist!

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Incidentally, I was already working on this project when the A-Z of Goldwork arrived. They describe this technique in detail in the book, and some variations on how to work it. I'm just going to cover one here.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


You start with a piece of pearl purl - this is a hard metal thread wound in a tight spring. Usually, when you couch it, you couch with gold-colored couching thread, slipping the thread between the coils in the spring. Pearl purl makes a beaded-looking outline, and it's very pretty. It's also very stiff and very hard, so make sure you're using scissors assigned only to cutting metal threads! This is pearl purl #1.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Stretch the pearl purl to about twice its length. Now, pearl purl won't return to its original twist once its stretched - you can't un-stretch it. To stretch it, grasp the two outermost beads on the cut of pearl purl you're stretching, and pull with an even tension.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Here, you can see the two pieces next to each other - the original pearl purl on top, and the stretched pearl purl below it.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Then, take your floss. Here, I'm using four strands of Au Ver a Soie's Soie d'Alger. Strip the floss in the normal method and put it back together.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Leaving a length (about an inch) of floss hanging off the end, wind the floss around the stretched pearl purl, so that it tucks in between the gold. This part's actually really easy - it just slips right into where it belongs as you turn the thread. It may be tempting to just hold the pearl purl in your finger and roll it, allowing the thread to work into the grooves of the twist, but I noticed this twists up the thread quite a bit. It looks better if you do the twisting with the actual thread, not with the gold.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


Continue wrapping the thread around the gold until the whole piece of wire is wrapped, and leave a tail of your floss at the end. I actually just left the whole length of floss at the end. It gave me something to hold onto while couching, so I didn't have to touch the gold much.

Couch the pearl purl / floss combo onto your project using the same thread used to wrap the coils. Use one strand. I couched at each wrap, so that the thickness and look of the wraps was even all around.

Alternately, you could use the large bundle of thread as your couching thread (or one piece of perle silk or cotton), and couch between each stretched wrap on the pearl purl. But I tried that, just for kicks. It's easy enough, but it seemed easier to me to get full coverage - a complete "look" - around the pearl purl by wrapping it first.

Goldwork Technique: Wrapping Pearl Purl with Silk


So - there's an easy and really pretty edge treatment for your future goldwork projects. I'm sure lots of embroiderers out there into goldwork already knew about it, but, for those that didn't - like me, you can delight in a new technique!

Don't forget that tomorrow morning, I'm drawing a winner for Trish Burr's book. If you haven't commented on that post yet and would like the opportunity to win a book on needlepainting by one of today's foremost designers in threadpainting / crewel embroidery techniques, do check out the book give-away and leave a comment answering the question posed in the post.

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Monday, September 15, 2008

Great Goldwork Technique!

 
Just a quick little post to refer you to a good technique post that you should read, if you're interested in goldwork.

Now, this is something that everyone in the world may have already known, but when I first started goldwork, I did not know this technique. When I learned it, it changed the way I looked at couched threads.

Carol-Anne of Threads Across the Web wrote up a great post on plunging threads using a plunging lasso, or what she calls a "sinking needle."

If you haven't read it or are not familiar with this idea, check out her post! The concept is simple, and it makes couching techniques a whole lot more palatable!

While you're there, check out her latest finished goldwork project - it's stunning!

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Saturday, September 13, 2008

Needlework is my Carrot

 
Now that I finished the embroidery on "Breath of Spring," and with the busy school year underway, I want to line-up my next needlework projects so that I don't have to focus so much on set-up, and so that I always have a "carrot." You do use needlework as a carrot, don't you?

For me, needlework is absolutely a carrot - it is my inducement to get myself to perform (whether household tasks, job-related activities, whatever) so that I can embroider with a clear conscience. Basically, I do what I have to do so that I can do what I want to do. That's not to say that everything besides needlework is drudgery; on the contrary, I like my job and I like doing other necessary things that relate to normal living. I always find, though, that if I have a goal (get this done now so I can do that later), I work with more energy and focus.

Do you want to know what my carrots are right now? Well - here they are:

First, I'm working on a goldwork project - a small project that's a lot of fun so far. I'm giving it to my niece for her wedding in November. I would like to have it finished by the end of next week, which isn't impossible. I've done all the silk shading, and now it's just a matter of the goldwork.

Goldwork with Silk Shading: project in the works


This is a picture of part of the project. I can't blog the whole thing right now, as the project isn't really "mine." Once it's published, I'll show you my finished work and tell you about it at length. But don't you love the colors so far?

Goldwork with Silk Shading: project in the works


Here's a little shot showing you how a vine is narrowed using gold passing thread. The vine is originally two pairs of passing thread (gold passing thread is generally couched in pairs). Then, about halfway around, I plunged one thread (half of a pair), and then a bit later, another thread, to narrow the vine to only one pair of passing threads. I think the designer was ingenious with this little touch.

After this is finished, I'll move on to beginning my Pelican.

Pelican of Mercy in Needlepoint or Canvas Work


This is the piece that I bought the threads for on my recent shopping venture. It's painted on 18 ct. canvas and the whole thing will be worked in tent stitch. The canvas was designed and painted by Judy of Possibilities, etc. I've had it for a while, and had every intention of starting it last spring, but, amazingly enough, I never had a chance to go shopping for threads until just a few weeks ago.

Pelican of Mercy in Needlepoint or Canvas Work


I don't plan to stitch the whole piece in one sitting. (Oh, no kidding??) Actually, it's going to be an on-and-off piece, for something to stitch on now and then, between projects and whenever I'm on a needlepoint roll. I don't think I would enjoy glutting myself entirely on tent stitch for months until this is finished. I'm looking forward to working it.

My next little project is going to be BABY BOOTIES. I'm excited about this one!!!! I'm going to make a couple sets of little baby booties out of wool felt (I think I'll try some different lining ideas, though - like lining them with flannel, or, for cold weather, perhaps fleece?). They'll be embroidered, of course, and I hope they turn out cute. I've got a pattern set from McCall's (pattern #2867).

McCall's Baby Booty Pattern


I've also found some cute patterns online. I especially like this Bitty Booties pattern from Heather Bailey Designs (PDF). You'll find it on her blog Hello My Name is Heather.

I've also been in the process of designing a really ambitious project.

Sketched Design for Ecclesiastical Embroidery


It's ecclesiastical embroidery and will feature mostly silk shading and goldwork. The design is still in the works, and it's really l-a-r-g-e. I still have some sketching to do on it, like finishing the angels in the arm of the cross:

Sketched Design for Ecclesiastical Embroidery


My plan is to break the design down into workable elements that will be appliqued together onto the main ground fabric. This is a whole new adventure for me - at least on this scale. I'll definitely be keeping you posted on this project's development. If I flop or just give up, you'll be the first to know!

For light work this winter, I've got a couple of Tanja Berlin's kits still - the squirrel and a bird, I think. So it's likely I'll set those up for stitching.

And between these projects, for more immediate purposes, I'd kind of like to make a stack of Christmas cards before the end of November rolls around. I'm thinking about getting some kids together - or at least a couple of my nieces - and doing a kind of group card-making session or four on Saturday afternoons.

All this is fun stuff and really exciting to me. But the reality is that, as much as I'd like to have all these projects underway with a certitude that I could finish them this winter, I know it will not be likely that I'll get them all done. Oh, the ecclesiastical piece will take years, I know. But it's nice to have stitching goals for the fall and winter months, even though I know that my real job is going to be taking the bulk of time. Still, I do plan to stitch, and stitching always makes a Really Good Carrot for me. If I do my work like a good girl, then I can settle into some serious needlework!

Is embroidery your carrot? Do you make up stitching goals for yourself? If you do, how many projects do you have on the burner? (Or at least stewing in your head?) In short, how do you go about planning and executing your stitching adventures? Maybe if we share ideas on this, we can all become more efficient with our time and our approach to our projects!

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Thursday, September 11, 2008

It Came! It Came! And WOW What a Book! A-Z of Goldwork Review

 
I am so excited about the new A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery recently published by Country Bumpkin! So excited, in fact, that just thinking about it gives me goose bumps! I want to tell you all about it, and tell you what I especially like about it!

This past summer, Country Bumpkin released a new book in the A-Z needlework series: A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery. I have lots of goldwork books - lots and lots, actually - but this one catapulted itself to the top of the list with the first read-through. When I first saw it, I was infatuated with it - but after reading it thoroughly twice, I think it's True Love!

A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery, published by Country Bumpkin


First of all, like the other books in the A-Z series, this book is full of photos - over 650 step-by-step photos on different goldwork techniques and silk embroidery techniques. The bulk of the book is goldwork, and the instructions are written and photographed in a way that makes what is a more complicated embroidery technique accessible to practically any level of embroiderer.

A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery, published by Country Bumpkin


What I especially like in the book:

1. The section on starting and finishing: there's a thorough going-over of different techniques for applique. The book details how to work the embroidery (for example, on a linen ground) then cut it out and apply it to ground fabric. This is really helpful, especially if you're interested in historical needlework or ecclesiastical embroidery. The photo instructions clarify different ways of achieving a professional finished edge.... very, very nice! I love this section.

2. The book covers thoroughly different methods of padding - another area of great use to the historical or ecclesiastical embroiderer. Padding over card, felt, and other material (such as string) is covered thoroughly.

3. Step-by-step pictures of S-ing with purls over pailettes... and S-ing in general.

4. Clear photos (and options) for couching twists.

5. And wow - a pretty thorough section on Or Nue, with side boxes of excellent tips for mastering this exquisite technique.

6. A thorough section on goldwork filling techniques.

7. A thorough section on different ways of working with purl - including all types of fillings and different stitches that can be worked with purl.

A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery, published by Country Bumpkin


The book is full of information besides the above points, but those are the topics in the book that I like best.

There's a section at the front of the book that covers the different types of metal threads, as well as the tools necessary for goldwork. I've found this information in other books, too, but hey - it's nice to have all the needful information in one book!

Scattered throughout the book (in true Country Bumpkin fashion) are stunning examples of goldwork - photos that will make your mouth water!

A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery, published by Country Bumpkin


In the back of the book, there's a nice design gallery, with instructions for the various projects featured there, from a beautiful golden butterfly, to a strawberry pincushion, to the gorgeous flower border that's featured on the cover of the book. There are several other designs and projects featured here, and they all have patterns, supply lists, and instructions. It's a great section for finding a good goldwork project if you're just delving into goldwork, or for getting the inspirational juices flowing, if you want to design you own project.

There's also a nice index in the back of the book, which is always helpful.

The section on silk embroidery covers the basics of silk work as it would be combined with goldwork - so you get individual stitches (reminiscent of stitch instructions found in other Country Bumpkin publications), and you also get techniques, such as silk shading. This is just a small section of the book, though, so don't expect in-depth information on techniques like thread painting. You'd find better information on that subject, for example, in the A-Z of Thread Painting, or in Clare Hanham's Beginner's Guide to Silk Shading. Still, the section in this book is useful, and it fits, because it addresses the typical types of silk embroidery often found with goldwork.

A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery, published by Country Bumpkin


A little glitch in the book: on pages 10 and 11 there's a little editing problem. The instructions for making a velvet board (for cutting your metal threads) are repeated under the heading "how to prepare a sling" (for plunging threads). So the sling instructions aren't there, but Country Bumpkin has posted the instructions for making a sling for plunging threads on their website, if you're looking for them.

Final analysis: Golly. I love this book. It's at the top of my Favorites List! If you're considering venturing into goldwork for the first time, this is the book to have. If you've ventured into goldwork, but want to expand your knowledge of the art, this is the book to have. If you're an expert at goldwork... ok, fine, maybe you don't need it! But... it's a pretty darned good book for reference, I think.

Where can you find it?

You can find it through Country Bumpkin, but if you're in the States, the shipping is a bit pricey. Look for it in States through Wooly Thread. I'm sure there are other local needlework shops that will carry it, too, so ask your needlework shop if they have it or can order it for you.

I think this book is a good investment, if you have even the slightest interest in this type of embroidery. If I could combine all the enthusiasm that I've ever felt for individual books all together into One Big Gush of Enthusiasm, this would be the book I'd do it for!

If you don't have it yet, get it - or put it on your Christmas list!

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Wednesday, September 03, 2008

Goldwork Threads: Specifically, Sadi

 
You already know I have an inordinate love for threads - I think I should probably see someone about that - but you might not know that I am especially infatuated with gold (real metal) threads. Today, thanks to JoWynn's generosity, I'm going to show you some upclose photos of Sadi thread.

I haven't had a chance to actually work with these threads, although I have handled them, examined them, stretched some a bit, and lined them up next to other gold threads in my stash.

Sadi threads are metal threads that are very much like some of the European goldwork threads. Specifically, the Sadi threads available on the market now are similar to smooth purl, check purl, and pearl purl.

If you aren't familiar with metal threads, there are two really good sources of information out there that will help you distinguish types of metal thread: Tanja Berlin's metal thread glossary, and the Benton & Johnson website.

So let's take a look at the Sadi threads available. These are distributed by Rajmahal, out of Australia, who also produce Rajmahal Art Silk, which is a thread made up of silk and viscose.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Rajmahal produces several types of Sadi threads. We're looking at their check, smooth, and pearl. The threads come (from what I can tell) in only two sizes, fine and broad.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


This is a pile of fine check - you get this much in one of those little cannisters. It's quite a bit of metal thread!

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


And this is broad check. The broad and the fine are actually both the same color - the camera picked them up differently. The stuff certainly sparkles!

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


You can see here the two sizes side by side. If you're familiar with European metal threads, this thread would be somewhat like check purl, but not exactly like it. The shape of the metal thread is definitely different, but the effect achieved in stitching would be similar.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


These are the two side by side in a heap - when you purchase the threads in the pre-packaged cannisters, you receive less, length-wise, of the broad check.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Like similar European metal threads, Sadi threads are hollow in the middle. To use them, you cut them and pass your needle and thread through the center and sew the gold on as you would a bead. Notice the shape of the hollow tube - it's five-sided, and the points alternate with each layer of the metal

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Here, I've placed a piece of European check purl in front of the Sadi thread, so you can see the difference in the way the thread is twisted. The Sadi is much more like a straight tube, which the European metal thread twists around.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Here, I've stretched out both threads so that you can see the shape and twist.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Sadi is also available in smooth (purl), which is much like the European smooth purl, although I think the wraps are a little more visible on the Sadi thread than on the European thread. Smooth purl is like a closely wound spring, and, when you hold a quantity in your hand, it is limp and kind of "wormy." It's neat stuff!

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Like the check Sadi, the smooth said comes in two sizes - the photo above is broad smooth Sadi, and the one above that is fine smooth Sadi.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


You can see them both side by side here - the broad is really fat and worm-like!

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


Like the check Sadi and purl above, the smooth is a hollow tube that you cut and sew on as you would a bead, though it is much more flexible than a bead!

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


In fact, you can see how flexible it is here - this came out of the cannister this way!

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


And finally, here's the pearl Sadi. This thread is a whole lot stiffer than the other two. Pearl is used as an outline, normally, and it has a "beaded" or bumpy look to it, unlike smooth purl.

Sadi Metal Threads for Hand Embroidery


When you stretch it out, it looks like a telephone cord. (Do they make telephones with cords anymore?)

The pearl Sadi is a different color, compared to the other two threads, which surprised me. It's really yellow, as opposed to gold-metal-looking.

So those are the three types of Sadi thread similar to European check purl, smooth purl, and pearl purl.

Here are some of the differences I noticed between the Sadi and the European metal threads I've worked with:

1. There are only two sizes of each type. With the European threads, a whole range of sizes is generally available within each type.

2. The check Sadi seems to me to be much lighter than the European check purl in weight. I think this definitely has to do with the way it is twisted. I think there's more metal used in the European, and the Sadi has a much larger "hollow" in the middle of it.

3. The Sadi threads vary a bit in color among themselves, so I don't think they're all made out of the same materials. The smooth and check are pretty close in color, but the pearl is not. I don't know what the gold content is in the Sadi threads, or if they actually have any gold in them. The label does warn that they tarnish (as do European real gold threads), but the tarnish can come from a silver base, or even from some other metal. So I don't know what they are precisely made of, and neither the label nor the Rajmahal website clarify this.

4. The Sadi threads work the same way that similar European metal threads would work. Although you might be limited in what you do with them because of size availability, they are slightly less expensive than European metal threads (even less expensive than gilt as opposed to 2% gold), so it seems to me that they would make very good practice thread, if you want to try goldwork.

I was really happy to be able to look at these threads up-close (thanks, JoWynn!). I would like to stitch with them a bit before I offer any firm opinion on whether I like them, or to what degree I like them compared to the gold threads I'm used to.

But I do know this - if you want to give goldwork and metal thread embroidery a try, you couldn't go wrong practicing with the Sadi thread.

Where can you find Sadi threads? Here are some sources online:

In the US:

JDR Brazilian Elegance. Located in North Dakota. Though I haven't ordered from them personally, this is where my threads came from, and it seems that they are very nice and efficient, with good service. Each cannister is $6.50. A cannister of broad Sadi has 1.5 meters in it, and a cannister of fine Sadi has 3 meters in it. They also carry variety pack cannisters, so you can try the different types of threads.

Erica's. Located in Indiana. This is primarily a machine-oriented sewing / embroidery center, but they do carry some hand embroidery supplies, including the Rajmahal Sadi threads, at $5.90 a tube. I've ordered once from Erica's (two books) and received ok service, but it didn't remind me of the "local needlework shop" experience.

In New Zealand, there's a shop called Eastern Threads that looks as if it carries a pretty wide range of Sadi threads. I don't think they're made by Rajmahal - they have a wider range of colors and it seems they also have a "medium" size available.

If you've had any experience with these threads, or know of other resources, I'd love to hear about it!

Whew! That was a long one. On a personal note, things improve daily, slowly but surely... thank you again for your on-going encouragement and kind words.

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Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Silk and Goldwork Cope Hood Photos

 
Despite wear and tear, this is a gorgeous piece of ecclesiastical needlework. In fact, most of the wear and tear, from a distance, isn't noticeable - but when you look closely at the piece, you realize that there are parts that really need attention if it is to continue in use.

Christiana has undertaken the formidable task of repairing this cope hood so that it can be used again. I thought I'd show you some photos she sent along. I never tire of studying this type of work up close - the details always amaze me!

So this is a hand-embroidered element mounted on the back of the hood of a cope, which is a garment (like a cape) used in liturgical ceremonies. The image on the back of the cope is a representation of the Trinity - God the Father, the Holy Ghost (the Dove), and God the Son (the Lamb of God, or Agnus Dei).

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


Here's a view of the whole piece of embroidery.

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


This is a close up on the face. I love examining faces. Look at the difference between the face from far away (in the first photo above) and the face close up. Who would've ever guessed there was a red line down the side of the nose and above the eyes?

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


Here's a close-up on the crown and nimbus. It looks like the goldwork here is in very good repair, as you can see in the photo below:

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


But as you travel downwards in the design, the need of repair becomes more obvious, as seen below:

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


You can see the loose gold threads around the feet of the lamb, and the red cording hanging down (visible in the first picture above as well). You can also see in this photo - if you look in the colored folds of the garment - that some of the line stitching is loose there.

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


Here's the face of the lamb up close. I have to agree with Christiana - I love the way they did the wool! You can see on the left side of the nimbus (halo) one of the threads tweaking off.

Ecclesiastical Needlework on a Cope Hood needing repair


And I think this is great! This is Christiana's set-up for repairing the cope hood. First, she had to separate the hood from the lining, picking out by hand all the little stitches in the fabric around the hood (which is cloth of gold - not an easy task!). Then she had to contrive a way to mount the piece so that she had both hands free to work, without mounting it in anything that would damage the fabric or the embroidered piece. She's using a frame her dad made for her, which she's wrapped in fabric to protect the cope hood and also, I imagine, it provides a bit of friction to keep the work in place. She clamped the sides of the frame together to hold the piece while she works, keeping an even tension on the piece, but not so tight that it's pulling anything that's already stitched.

By the way - yep, she's stitching through the cloth of gold on which the piece is mounted. Talk about sore fingers!!

Keep up the good work, Christiana! I can't wait to see the finished product! (I wish I could see it in person!)

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Friday, August 01, 2008

Goldwork Article - Interesting Bit on the History of Goldwork...

 
Goldwork is probably one of the most awe-inspiring embroidery techniques, and I'm happy to see that its popularity is gaining ground again worldwide.

I have never failed to get ooooooos and aaaaaaahs and wows and all kinds of exclamations when I've shown off even the little scraps of practice goldwork. And I admit, that's always my reaction, too. When I see goldwork, I'm like the crow or whatever it was in that movie I saw when I was a kid - he was always completely mesmerized by "sparklies." (I think I just dated myself, and demonstrated that I have a pretty foggy memory when it comes to movies from childhood!)

I rank goldwork among my favorite needlework techniques, but the silly thing is, I really haven't done that much of it! I can count eight goldwork projects I've done. That's it. Eight. That's not much!

Anyway, one of the reasons goldwork appeals to me, I think, is its rich history. If you've never read anything about the history of this opulent form of needlework, but you'd like to, you're in luck - Country Bumpkin has published a nice, concise article on the History of Goldwork.

When Margaret sent me the link, she commented that the article was probably a result of the recently published A-Z of Goldwork book, and I suppose she's right. The book hasn't been distributed in the US yet, but we're waiting anxiously. I pre-ordered mine through Wooly Thread, and was disappointed to find out that it seems we won't get them until the end of August (!!). I suppose that's what I get for saving on shipping and not pre-ordering through Country Bumpkin!

Although I'm anxious to see the book and to compare it with other excellent goldwork books I have - like the Beginner's Guide to Goldwork by Ruth Chamberline - the truth of the matter is, it's probably better not to get distracted with a book that's going to make me want to start Yet One More Project!

Since this post comes without photos, I'll reference you to this post of a magnificent piece of goldwork...

Enjoy the article!

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Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Gilt Sylke Twist: New Colors Out!

 
Well, if you liked the first 8 colors of the Gilt Sylke Twist imported by Access Commodities, through the efforts of the folks at Plimoth Plantation, you're bound to be just as thrilled as I am about the new colors out!

I am so HAPPY to see the three new colors of GST that have been released and are now available to the public. The colors are Lincolne Green, Sable, and Black.

Gilt Sylke Twist: Lincolne Green, Sable, and Black


I love the bright green - and the sable is a deep dark brown, which looks lovely. Black, of course, is black - but with the gold!! Imagine how this could be incorporated into surface blackwork! Oh gosh. I am just in love with these threads, and these new colors are G-R-E-A-T. I think the two greens out so far will mix well together, too. Just think - leaves, stems... aaah. What bliss!

So - where can you get them? Well, Joady from Hedgehog Handworks e-mailed me earlier, to let me know they had them coming in. All three new colors are up on their website, but it looks like the sable is temporarily out of stock. Of all the online stores I've found so far carrying this thread, Hedgehog is the least expensive. They charge $19.80 / spool. You can find Gilt Sylke Twist online at other spots, though, too - like Needle in a Haystack, where it runs $22 / spool. It looks as if they don't have the new colors, though. Both stores provide excellent service and quick shipping.

I'm pretty excited to see the color options expanding on this gorgeous thread, and I hope to see the growth in selections continue!

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Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Embroidery Designer Spotlight: Alison Cole

 
I've had Alison Cole listed on my embroidery resources and links page for a long time, but now's a really good time to bring her to your attention specifically, since she has a new goldwork book on the market AND some new releases on her website.

Alison Cole is an Australian specializing in goldwork and stumpwork, and her embroidery business is located Down Under (a fact you have to take into consideration when ordering!) Her website is Alison Cole Embroidery, and if you do nothing else there, you must at least scroll through ALL the pictures of her work! You will be amazed by her artistry!

Alison has produced two books now on goldwork, one that was released last month (June, 2008). The first one is All That Glitters, and the new one is called The Midas Touch. Right now, All That Glitters is available through Amazon here in the States. I'm hoping The Midas Touch will show up soon! It promises to be an excellent book of stumpwork and goldwork projects.

And speaking of stumpwork and goldwork projects, you must check out her new stuff on her website. She offers kits, by the way, and her newly released kits look beautiful and fun. While I haven't worked any of her kits, you know by virtue of the quality of her own work that they're bound to be really nice.

I've got my eye on the Illuminated Floral. Some day, some day... when the budget allows it, I suppose! It's stunning, though, isn't it? I think it would be a blast to work!

I can't help thinking, when looking at Alison's work - her kits, her books, her gallery of projects - that she must really love her job!

If you want to check out her book All That Glitters through Amazon, you'll find it's less than $20 right now, new... I'll let you know when the new one shows up!


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Friday, July 04, 2008

Slate Frames for Hand Embroidery! Yippee!

 
When you get beyond the beginner stage of hand embroidery and move into more complex forms, you may find that you wish to expand your collection of tools. An indispensible tool for the serious embroiderer - especially if you get into goldwork, silk shading, and other complex techniques - is the slate frame. I've found a source in the US who provides hand-made slate frames that are sturdy, beautiful, and in all regards, as far as I can tell, really perfect. I spent a good part of today (July 4th) playing with mine, dressing it in a nice piece of linen. The finished product was worth the effort!

Before I launch into this, I also have a tutorial on how to dress a slate frame for hand embroidery - if that's what you're looking for, rather than a source.

On with the news!

Mr. Evan Burroughs, located in Salem, Oregon, makes slate frames for the hand embroiderer! This was such an exciting piece of news for me, because, for the longest time, I couldn't find a source in the US. Sure, slate frames can be ordered from Britain, but - combine the exchange rate and the shipping, and they are expensive!

When Evan fell out of the sky into my e-mail account one day, I was really thrilled and eager to try his frames.

He makes three sizes of frames. The smallest frame accommodates a piece of embroidery about 10" x 10", without having to roll the work. The medium size accommodates a piece from 16" - 20" wide, with stretchers that will accommodate a piece about 16" long before having to roll the work. And the largest size accommodates a piece about 24" wide by about 28" long, before you'd have to roll it.

The frames are made out of beech, which is strong wood. The pins are stainless steel cotter pins (rather than the traditional wooden pegs), which allows the pegs on the side stretchers to be placed in 1/4" increments, giving you really good control on the stretching.

Slate Frame used for Hand Embroidery, Goldwork, and Other Embroidery Techniques


If there were some way to allow you to feel what you're looking at in that photo, you would understand my infatuation with slate frames! The fabric is perfectly smooth, perfectly taut all around, and oh-so-ready for my next project! Isn't it just beautiful??

The frames run $59 (small), $69 (medium), and $89 (large). Remember, they are hand made, and they will last you a life time - and then some! As far as the workmanship goes, my experience with mine is this:

I LOVE IT. The wood is smooth as glass, the frame feels in all respects sturdy, everything fits together really well, and... wow. It's just really nice! When you're working with it, you know it's "real" - it's not cheaply made, plastic, or flimsy. I think it's a work of art!

Evan is also the fellow behind the Evertite Slimline Tension Adjusting Stretcher Bar frames - which I hope to try soon. I've got one set that I want to mount a bird project on; as soon as I do, I'll let you know what I think of the Evertite frames.

If you want to take your stitching to the next level and invest in a slate frame - or if you're like me, and you've been looking high and low for ages for a source for slate frames - do contact Evan. You can visit his Evertite webpage, where he has his contact information listed. When I arranged for my frame, he said he generally has a few sets of each size of slate frame on hand; if not, his production time runs about a month. It's worth the wait!

Now, after all the gushing, I have to add a little glimpse of reality for you. A slate frame is not an "easy" option for the embroiderer. It takes much time to dress a frame, and it's hard work. The end results are worth it, no doubt, but before you delve into a slate frame, do understand that it takes some effort to set up the frame. (I'm typing with sore thumbs...)

That having been said, I think it's the best way to set up a large project, especially one that will take you some time. The tension lasts forever, and can be adjusted repeatedly without having to take the frame apart. Read "Dressing a Slate Frame" to see how the whole process of setting up a slate frame works.

And finally, just so you know, Evan Burroughs and I are not affiliated - I'm just a very, very happy customer who is so pleased to be able to tell you about his handiwork! Do check him out - and tell him I sent you!

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Wednesday, July 02, 2008

New Goldwork Embroidery Book Out in July - and a Needlework Resource

 
You know the A-Z series of needlework books? Well, I mentioned previously that Country Bumpkin was releasing a new goldwork book this summer - and, July finally being here, the book should be out soon. This is the thing, though: Country Bumpkin's prices have jumped a bit....

In the past, the A-Z series of embroidery and needlework books (they also have knitting, crochet, smocking...) have been consistently $29, if purchased new. Welp... for the first time in ages, the price has jumped $4. Now, if you want a new A-Z series needlework book, it'll cost you $33.00!

Before you plunge into the Goldwork book, I thought I'd let you know that I have a copy coming. I'll give it a good perusal and let you know what's in it and how it compares to less expensive books on the market.

Speaking of less expensive goldwork books, my favorites are still Ruth Chamberline's Beginner's Guide to Goldwork and Mary Brown's Goldwork Embroidery Designs and Projects. For beginners, Ruth Chamberline's book is really excellent. Mary Brown's book is good for beginners, but I think it's best for someone who has dabbled a little bit in goldwork already. Both of these books can be had through Amazon for less than half the price of the A-Z of Goldwork....

Buuuuuutttt..... I have to admit there are differences in the types of books! I know that without having seen the new one yet, based on the other A-Z books. This particular A-Z book promises over 650 step-by-step photos!

Anyway, I'm eager to see the new book, and I'll let you know all about it when I get it. I ordered mine from Wooly Thread, by the way, since I had to order some other stuff from them anyway. I thought I may as well at least save on shipping! The story from Wooly Thread is that the book may not arrive until closer to the end of July, perhaps even the beginning of August. In this country, they'll be among the first to receive the book, though, so I'll certainly let you know when it gets here!

And, finally, speaking of Wooly Thread, did you know they have a blog? The Wooly Thread blog is not a super-active blog, but they use it to announce good deals, private sales, shop news, and things like that. Several weeks ago, for example, they announced that they have the A-Z of Embroidery Stitches 2 on discount for a mere $15. I don't know if they've run out of them yet, but that's an excellent price on a really good book. Anyway, you might want to add the Wooly Thread blog to your feedreader, so you can be kept abreast of any good deals that pop up!




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Friday, May 30, 2008

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Goldwork and Silk

 
Ecclesiastical embroidery is one of my favorite categories of hand embroidery - I love the combinations of goldwork and silk and shading seen in old samples of hand embroidery worked for the beautification of churches. I was cleaning out some picture files to make space on my computer, when I came across these photos and thought they would be appropriate to post today as good examples of figure embroidery, goldwork, and silk. I hope you like them!

These are two examples of different representations of the Sacred Heart, worked in gold metal threads and silk. The embroidery is perhaps not the finest ecclesiastical embroidery I've seen, but there are some notable points to both pieces.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Sacred Heart image worked in gold metal threads and silk


A front view of this image does not show it off well, in my opinion, but there are elements of it that I think are really exquisite. For example, the effect of "light" around the Sacred Heart is very nice. Also, I like the gold on the robes. But the image looks better, I think, when seen from the side, which is curious.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Sacred Heart image worked in gold metal threads and silk


This is the same image from the side. I think the face is more appealling from this angle.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Sacred Heart image worked in gold metal threads and silk


I think the eyes are beautifully worked. Close up, they are even more impressive.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Sacred Heart image worked in gold metal threads and silk


The image is set on cloth of gold, which is enhanced by a pattern worked in gold purl.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Sacred Heart image worked in gold metal threads and silk


This is a different image of the Sacred Heart, and it is, in my opinion, not quite as nice as the one above. But the techniques are completely different. In the image above, the robes - in fact, the entire figure - is embroidered. In this image, the figure is made of appliqued fabric, which has been stitched over where shading is desired, to give the "look" of embroidery without the labor-intensiveness of hand embroidering the entire image.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Sacred Heart image worked in gold metal threads and silk


The face on this image is solid flesh colored fabric. The shading is achieved by stitching darker flesh tones only where shading is desired. Sometimes, such pieces would actually be painted. The details of the face, for example, would be painted onto silk. The shading was then achieved primarily by the paint, and lines of stitches would be added to enhance the shading. But on this particular piece, the background of the face is flesh-colored silk which is not painted.

Anyway, I like looking at pieces like these to determine techniques and to get ideas. I hope you enjoyed seeing the photos!

Have a great weekend!

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Monday, May 05, 2008

Embroidered Crown: Raised Work and Seed Stitch

 
Last week, I did indeed manage to cram in this embroidery project and complete it with fairly good success! Mind you, it took all blinking day Saturday to get it finished, but, come 9:00 pm, it was actually delivered! I take back the comment I made about wishing I had done something more complicated. Uh. No. My new motto: the simpler, the better.

Today, I'm going to show you how I embroidered the crown - I left my camera behind at the festivities yesterday, so I can't unload the finished photos yet. (It was one of Those Weekends. I'm lucky I didn't leave my head behind...)

When I started thinking about how to do the crown, my first thought was to fill it in like I did the cross, with long and short stitch in various shades of gold. But that didn't seem very interesting, so I did this instead:

Embroidered Crown: Raised Work and Seed Stitch


First, I fetched a ball of yarn from my goldwork supplies. I use this yarn to couch gold purl over when doing goldwork. I ran a piece of the yarn through a cake of beeswax a few times, then I ran the yarn through my fingers to smooth it out and distribute the beexwax.

One string of yarn, by the way, was a perfect fit between the two lines on the crown. I was glad and rather pleased with myself for coming up with the idea! But don't worry - I still managed to make a mistake! Mistakes keep one humble, and they're the best of learning tools!

Embroidered Crown: Raised Work and Seed Stitch


I took a Very Large Needle with a Very Large Eye, and threaded an end of the waxed yarn into it, then sunk the yarn ends at each edge of the crown.

Embroidered Crown: Raised Work and Seed Stitch


And then, oh joy! oh bliss! I took out the GST (in the yellow - which is a beautiful soft gold, really) and started satin stitching over the yarn, which created a very nice raised band across the crown.

Embroidered Crown: Raised Work and Seed Stitch


But as you can see, it isn't so smooth. Rats! In stitching down the sunk piece of waxy yarn end on the back, I didn't realize how badly it would tug things on the front. I did what I could to prod the stitching back into smoothness, but it never did look quite the same again.

Embroidered Crown: Raised Work and Seed Stitch


After overcasting the yarn with the Gilt Sylke Twist, I outlined the crown in a dark gold (the same dark gold I used on the cross) using heavy chain stitch. I used the light gold that runs down the middle of the cross on the inside of the crown, stitching tiny seed stitches in there to add a dusting of color and a slight hint of texture.

A couple very good lessons I learned on this little crown: 1. Be conscious of what's going on on both sides of your fabric when tacking down loose ends; and 2. do the raised work last, after finishing the other stitching around it. I really had to manipulate my needle to get the stitches in around the GST without jabbing it. I jabbed it quite a bit!

I'll share the rest of that project later!

Coming up, I've got some super interesting information from Trish Burr! She's the author of Redoute's Finest Flowers in Embroidery and Long and Short Stitch Embroidery, and she has a new book coming out this summer in the US (already out in the UK and Australia, apparently!). She's also featured in this month's Inspirations Magazine. She sent me some notes on the path to publishing her books, along with some personal insights on her books, some gorgeous (and I mean STUNNING) photos of her work, and some information about her upcoming title. So I'll be putting that together into a worthy article this week! Look for it!

Have a wonderful Monday!

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Friday, May 02, 2008

Goldwork, Anyone? New Book Coming Out Soon!

 
Just a quick note to let you know that there's a new A-Z Series book coming out: Goldwork with Silk Embroidery. I don't know a lot about it, but here's what I do know...

Country Bumpkin Publications produces an excellent line of embroidery books covering all kinds of techniques, and the books are great for beginners and experienced embroiderers alike. Their books feature step-by-step photographs of the stitches and techniques covered, which is wonderful when you're just learning (well, I think it beats the black and white diagrams, anyway!).

A-Z Series: Goldwork and Silk Embroidery


A-Z of Goldwork with Silk Embroidery is due for release in July of this year, and it can be pre-ordered now through Country Bumpkin. I would also guess you could pre-order through retailers here in the US that carry the CB A-Z books (for example, Wooly Thread or Needle in a Haystack). The shipping for Australia to America is pretty pricey!

The Goldwork book promises over 500 step-by-step photos and 10 projects covering 96 techniques of goldwork and silk embroidery. Check out the pre-order information on the A-Z of Goldwork and Silk Embroidery on Country Bumpkin's website for detailed information.

I've been waiting for this book for a while, actually - not that I knew it was coming, because I didn't! I just figured it was inevitable. I'm sure it'll be a good, quality book, and when I get my hands on it, I'll certainly let you know the nitty-gritty details!

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Monday, April 28, 2008

Embroidered Clothing: Vintage from the New York Times

 
During the Victorian and Edwardian eras, embroidery on fine clothing was the norm. By the time the Industrial Revolution finished off the cottage industries, embroidery on clothing could be done by machine. But that didn't stop some people from undertaking the embellishment of their own wardrobes, as this New York Times article attests.

Anyone interested in costuming, in vintage textiles, or even in general surface embroidery may find this "Message to Women" interesting. What's the message? "Gold Thread to be Used Lavishly in Many Fabrics this Season" with explanations on "Honeycomb Stitchery." Read the gold thread article if you get a chance - you can pick up some interesting instruction on how to work the techniques discussed. If nothing else, I think it's amusing!

NY Times Article on Gold Thread use on Clothing


Speaking of embroidery on clothing and vintage textiles, another interesting source of embroidery designs is The Costume Galler's Online Library of Vintage Publications, in particular the free page of McCall's Magazine Self Transferable Embroidery Patterns, from May of 1908.

McCall's Magazine, May, 1908: Embroidery for Clothing


The nice thing about the patterns offered on the McCall's page (there are five embroidery patterns altogether) is that you could easily modify the pattern for something other than the bodice of that dress you're making for your summer tea parties.... you could take just one section of a motif and use it on linens or whatever!

Enjoy!

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Thursday, April 10, 2008

Embroidered Strawberry Completed

 
I had so much fun embroidering this little strawberry scene. There's nothing super-fancy about it, and certainly there's nothing accurate about it as far as nature is concerned, but the embroidery was fun! I learned several things along the way.

First, I learned about embroidering with Gilt Sylke Twist - some things work, and some things don't. Well, I should qualify that: they didn't work for me. They might work better for someone with a little more skill and a little more patience!

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


For example, long and short stitch and variations, worked on an arch, are probably not ideal with this thread. For one thing, the thread can't be split, so you have to come up between the previous stitches - which nudges them aside. Because of the stiff nature of the GST, they tend to stay nudged aside...

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


It doesn't look horrible, but it doesn't look that great, either!

For the blossom, I settled on long and short stitch in ecru and pink, with some highlights of the pink GST in the middle.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


I like the way the blossom came out. I used some slightly darker brownish-pink in there, too, and between the petals for a bit of separation.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


The leaves behind the blossom are worked in three colors of green: I satin stitched the whole leaf in a medium green, then I embroidered a few "shoots" of dark green up from the edge of the petal. Finally, I worked in a very light green at the tips, using just two stitches over each tip, in stem stitch, to give it a kind of curled look.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


Another thing I learned: oh, yes, we all know it, but do we do it??? Think things through before beginning to stitch. I wasn't thinking when I stitched this stylized leaf (right - that's my excuse: it isn't supposed to look real!). I meant to do the long and short on the edge, exactly as it is done, and I meant to stitch the green GST on the edge as well. I even meant to work a stem stitch filling on the top section of the leaf. However, I did not mean to break the stem stitch scallops where I did! I should have drawn a line, slanting down in the direction of the scallops on the edge, and broken my scallops of stem stitch filling along slanted lines, so that those lines followed the direction of the long and short stitch.

But I wasn't really paying attention, and I didn't notice it until I was finished!

Another way I could have avoided those scallop-lines in the stem stitch filling altogether would have been to alternate the placement of the stitches in each row, not ending at a point each time I came down the scallop hill.

But like I said, I wasn't paying attention!

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


I also learned another thing I already know, but it served as a good reminder: line up your threads and the quantities thereof before you stitch. I ran out of the green I was using. You can't really tell, but it made the little turn-over at the tip look a bit different than I intended.

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylke Twist


But, despite all the lessons, I'm still pretty happy with the way it turned out.

Oh - I learned one more thing. I will no longer be a fanatic over not wanting people to touch my embroidery. Usually, as a finger approaches, I spaz out - "Don't Touch!" When people see something like this strawberry, with the raised leaves and the sparkle of the GST, they can't resist it. They MUST touch it. So I learned that, sometimes, you just have to sit back and not get weird over people wanting to touch your embroidery. After all, they're learning, too!

Hope you liked my GST Strawberry Adventure! Now, on to other projects!

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Friday, April 04, 2008

Couched Lattice across the Strawberry

 
Just a short little post, to show you pictures of the lattice work on the strawberry embroidered in satin stitch with the Gilt Sylke Twist....

I couched the lattice with green embroidery stranded embroidery floss, using one strand and a #11 needle. The lattice is worked in pink Gilt Sylke Twist.

Strawberry Embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


I tried to take photos that would catch the sparkle... side shots work really well, and you can't see the flaws as well, either!!

Strawberry Embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


I like the pink GST with the red. The colors work well together.

Strawberry Embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist


This is a head-on shot of the strawberry. The left leaf there is bent up, but it does sit down over the edge of the top, so that white isn't visible.

And that's the strawberry worked in satin stitch with Gilt Sylke Twist. I'm going to remove the stem stitch line I worked first on that leaf stem, then work the leaf to the left of the strawberry, and work the stem stitch up the vein of the leaf and to the main stem. The main stem will be worked in heavy chain stitch. Then I'll figure out the blossom...

But in the meantime, I've got a couple videos to edit, so I hope to post a stitch or two this weekend for the video library, and I have the April embroidery stash contest coming up. I'm going to offer a meter of each of the colors of GST that are currently available (red, green, light blue blue, cream, and pink) and another goodie or two. So keep and eye out for that, and have a wonderful weekend!

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Thursday, April 03, 2008

Gilt Sylke Twist Strawberry - All Filled Up

 
Here's my strawberry, satin stitched with the Gilt Sylke Twist. I'm dying to move a little faster on this little embroidery experiment, but time, alas, isn't on my side right now!

I'm hoping to stitch the lattice work couching on tonight. I laid the pink Gilt Sylke Twist on to see how it would look, and I think it'll look pretty good!

My fear is that I will finish the strawberry and loose interest in finishing the rest of the little design!

Here's the satin stitching in progress and finished:

Strawberry embroidered in satin stitch with Gilt Sylke Twist


Working across the strawberry did pose some difficulties in the way the thread lays. I like Carol-Anne's suggestion about using two needles threaded with the GST, and taking turns. Although this looks a bit bumpy there in the middle, it turned out ok, and the warbly parts will be stroked into submission before I lay the lattice work on. Actually, the lattice, I think, will help hold the threads in place.

Strawberry embroidered in satin stitch with Gilt Sylke Twist


Here's the finished satin stitching. I'm wondering what will happen when I stitch between the GST to couch the lattice threads on. Will it separate noticeably? We shall see. I'll use a very fine needle and only one strand of thread.

Strawberry embroidered in satin stitch with Gilt Sylke Twist


I think this thread is really gorgeous! From even a small distance, you can't really make out the individual gold wraps. You end up with a sense of the gold, in the way that it picks up the light, sparkles here and there, and gives off an overall "shimmeriness" (if that's even a word!).

So, that's where I am right now. I'd love to know who else is stitching practice pieces with the GST and if you have any pictures posted... Do share!!

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Wednesday, April 02, 2008

Embroidered Strawberry with Gilt Sylk Twist: Progress Report

 
Here's a little progress report on my latest embroidery experiment. I'm working on a strawberry, satin stitched with Gilt Sylke Twist. The leaves are finished, the strawberry is padded, and I've begun the satin stitching. So far, I'm having a blast!

I embroidered the strawberry leaves in detached buttonhole using the green Gilt Sylke Twist. I'll try to explain verbally how I detach the leaf, since I didn't actually take step-by-step photos. Sorry!

Embroidered Strawberry Pattern with Gilt Sylke Twist


I decided I would do the center leaf after all. I was debating about this at first, as I mentioned in the first steps of the Strawberry Project.

I want the center leaf to stand up above the berry, so it has to be separate from the ground fabric. The outline I used for the detatched buttonhole is just a simple backstitch where it's attached to the ground fabric, and a couched line where it will be separated from the ground fabric.

You can see the red couching stitches in the photo above. Once the buttonhole filling is complete, the couching stitches are snipped away, so that the leaf can stand up from the fabric. The only place I actually worked through the fabric on the outline of the leaf was at the very top of the leaf, where I stitched through the other leaves already there. Get it?

It was a leeeetle bit hard working the detached buttonhole in the area above the other leaves. I just had to be careful not to catch the stitches in the leaves below.

Embroidered Strawberry Pattern with Gilt Sylke Twist


So that's the leaf, finished. I whip stitched the edge in a lighter green. I wanted the leaves to have the sort of crinkly look typical to strawberry leaves, but I don't know how well that comes across.

Embroidered Strawberry Pattern with Gilt Sylke Twist


Then I started filling in the padding on the strawberry. For the padding, I'm working with two strands of a dark red DMC cotton. When padding something with multiple layers of padding, you start in the center with a satin stitch padding over a small part of the center. Then you work the padding in layers, changing the direction of your stitches. You want the last layer of padding to run perpendicular to your topmost layer (the visible layer) of satin stitch.

When working the padding stitches, I didn't carry my thread across the back of the area, because I didn't want the back to build up, too. Instead, I jumped sideways for each stitch.

Embroidered Strawberry Pattern with Gilt Sylke Twist


I kept working the padding in layers, until the shape was filled up. Here, there are three layers underneath the layer you see on top.

In both of the above photos, you can see the center leaf turned up. The GST is pretty stiff, so the elements worked with it are somewhat bendable.

Embroidered Strawberry Pattern with Gilt Sylke Twist


For the final layer of padding, since the GST is going to be stitched down the length of the berry, I stitched the padding (using one strand of DMC now) horizontally across the berry. I also worked a split stitch outline around the shape.

Then, for the exciting part!!

Embroidered Strawberry Pattern with Gilt Sylke Twist


I began the satin stitching in the GST. Some things I did differently from normal satin-stitching, because of the stiffness (and the expense) of the thread:

I didn't carry the thread across the back. I emerged at "A" at the top of the berry, went down at "B" at the base of the berry over the split stitched line, and then, jumping sideways, I came up at a point "C" to the right of "B" (at the base of the berry) and then went down at a point "D" to the right of "A" at the top of the berry. After the first two stitches, I didn't like the way that was working.

To come up right next to the previous satin stitch was difficult, because of the stiffness of the thread. It caused the stitches on top to arch away from each other. I gave them a little pinch on the back to rectify this, but for subsequent stitches, I moved from one side to the other of the previous stitches.

So, here's a diagram of where I went up and down for the satin stitching:

Embroidered Strawberry Pattern with Gilt Sylke Twist


Up at A, down at B, up at C, down at D, then jump to the other side of A, and go up at E, down at F, then jump to the other side of C and go up at G and down at H.

This seemed to work better, but it required more thread to pass across the back. Still, it was a lot less thread than carrying the whole stitch up the back, and it turned out looking ok!

The next update will be the completed satin stitch on the strawberry, with lattice couching over the satin stitching. I'm doing the lattice in the pink GST. I'll couch the lattice down with regular embroidery floss, but I'm not sure what color to couch it with?? Green?

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Monday, March 31, 2008

Playtime! Embroidering with Gilt Sylke Twist

 
One of my goals this weekend was to sit down with the new Gilt Sylke Twist and try it out with different embroidery stitches. I didn't get very far, but at least I started!

First, I mused about what to embroider. I didn't want to work random stitches. The thread is a bit dear to use on random stitching. But then, I didn't want to spend a lot of time thinking up or sketching out a design, either. I just wanted to get to the stitching!

I had a piece of good linen already framed up that I was "trying" a different failed experiment on (more on that later), so I salvaged a corner of that, took a pencil, and drew whatever came to mind straight on the linen.

Strawberry and vine embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist and other threads


There's nothing too naturally accurate here - stylized leaves, an attempt at some sort of blossom, and a strawberry. Spring must be coming - I've had strawberries on my mind lately!

My plan was to embroider the strawberry in red GST, in satin stitch, with a lattice over it in pink GST. That's still my plan. I just didn't do the strawberry first, but I'm thinking I should have.

Strawberry and vine embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist and other threads


To get familiar with the GST, I thought I'd stitch a line of stem stitch. I began with a #7 hand-made Japanese needle, but I think it was too small. I switched to a #10, which seems a little big, especially when working the stitches in the picture below. But it was ok for the stem stitch.

You can see that the stem stitch is a bit on the wobbly looking side. It took me a bit to get used to the thread. It's quite stiff. I should have been a little more careful and a little more patient.

One you get used to the thread, though, it's great to work with. I don't suggest a "sewing method" with stem stitch. Take your thread all the way to the front, all the way to the back ("stab" method). I like the noise the thread makes passing through the fabric, actually. It's a barely there kind of zipper sound!

Strawberry and vine embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist and other threads


I'm pretty sure I'm working this out of proper order. But I wanted to lift the strawberry leaves above the strawberry itself, and to do that, I figured I'd have to stitch the leaves, leaving part of them detached, lift them up, and stitch the strawberry underneath. I now wonder if I've left enough room to manage that, but we'll see.

The middle leaf may be abandoned altogether. We'll see on that, too!

Strawberry and vine embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist and other threads


Here's a close-up, so you can see the sparkle. The Japanese #10 is not ideal for the detached buttonhole in a tiny space - it's too fat, in my opinion! I outlined the leaves in backstitch in a matching dark green, and couched the area of the outline of the leaf where I wanted to lift it up from the ground fabric. You can see the red couching stitches in the leaf outline on the right. After filling the leaves with the GST, I took a barely lighter green - one strand - and stem-stitched around the leaves to give them a finished edge. I whip-stitched the part of the outline that was couched, so that I could still lift the leaf off the ground fabric.

Strawberry and vine embroidered with Gilt Sylke Twist and other threads


And that's a little bit of an angled close-up so you can see the dimension.

My plan from this point: finish the leaves, then do the strawberry (in padded satin stitch with a lattice over it). Some of the leaves will be long-and-short stitch with regular stranded silk, but I will probably edge them and add veins with the GST.

I haven't quite decided what to do with that ridiculous-looking "blossom" yet. I'm open to suggestions!

And the stems and vines will be worked in different line and chain-type stitches. The main stem, I think, will either be worked in chain stitch or in heavy chain stitch - or perhaps just a wider band of stem stitch worked as a filling, so that I can add some shading. We'll see!

More updates later - back to my needle and thread!

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Friday, March 21, 2008

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Cope Hood

 
Continuing through my collection of liturgical and church-related embroidery photos, here's a glorious embroidered piece - the hood of a cope, with figure embroidery. Like the Last Supper chasuble I posted yesterday and the Crucifixion chasuble I posted photos of last year, this is relatively "modern" work - first half of the 1900's sometime.

The embroidered image on the cope hood is God the Father, holding Christ in His arms, with the Holy Ghost over the right shoulder. Around the figures are the choirs of angels. The cope hood would be approximately two feet long, and a little less wide.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Cope Hood with God the Father and the Crucified Christ


The majority of the work is done in long and short stitch or split stitch shading techniques.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Cope Hood with God the Father and the Crucified Christ


The individual angels representing the choirs of angels are probably about 3 or 4 inches high. I regret that I didn't take accurate measurements when I photographed these! The detail and the color are quite nice.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Cope Hood with God the Father and the Crucified Christ


There are nine choirs of angels depicted, each one represented by the wings or by what is held in their hands. I don't know the precise symbolism.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Cope Hood with God the Father and the Crucified Christ


The dove that represents the Holy Ghost caught my eye on this piece, as the outlines are embroidered in red, rather than the typical black or dark grey.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Cope Hood with God the Father and the Crucified Christ


Because the piece was in a glass-covered drawer, I couldn't get a direct shot of the crown or face details here. You can see gemstones (probably glass) and pearls worked on the crown.

Ecclesiastical Embroidery: Cope Hood with God the Father and the Crucified Christ


The shading on the face of Christ is really very nicely done. It looks better from far away than it does close up, in my opinion (as does the whole piece). This is often the case in ecclesiastical work - the pieces are embroidered and shaded according to how they will look from a distance, since one of the reasons they are